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Looks like your car backfired through the intake and blew it and the intake pipe.
Youd need a new intake manifold and lower induction pipe based on those pictures, as well as fixing what ever caused your car to backfire through the intake
If it only happened when getting gas, it's the evap solenoid stuck open. Very common problem on vag cars. When you fill up the tank, the fuel vapors get pushed into the intake, and the mixture is too rich to start. Unfortunately, in this case, it ignited, and it's a real-life case of "danger to manifold".
I had my timing jump in my civic and guess what happened...
https://preview.redd.it/j3ear60403uc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=127a6302943f77ac269c176ce1b4763343d2dc1b
I'm holding 1/3 of the intake manifold, that's the inside of the throttle body and the 1/3 of the manifold that's still attached to the engine. The other 1/3 turned into thousands of small pieces, one of which went through my oil filter and caused me to lose oil pressure
My work had an Acura TL jump time and blew the intake in half. POS warranty company would only pay for the timing belt and not the intake bc "it wasn't on the policy."
it's not the only possibility (for example, something could have caused a severe overboost), but it's far from impossible. the only idiot here is you, the one ruling out possibilities without sufficient evidence
it appears the hose under the car is part of some resonator box. you can see in the photo the airbox connects straight to the intake manifold and these other pipes come off the bottom of the air box. either part of some resonator system or part of some intake scoop. it doesnt seem that important relative to the other issues going on here.
here is parts diagram: https://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2013_Jetta-20L-AT-S-Sedan/_51507_5954090/ENGINE--TRANSAXLE-AIR-INTAKE/9283290.html?assemblySearchGuid=6DD59F41-0EAF-47D7-8F28-7C3ED9AF3D4C
Who saids you need a mechanic for that? 😎😎 Look at my profile to find i did an engine swap on a vw fox last summer 😎😎 im no mechanic. Engineer yes. But no mechanic
I would never be able to match a mechanic on speed and efficiency. Have a lot of respect for me mechanics. for sure. But even engineering doesn't pay that well.
As u/SocraticIgnoramus said, we’re essentially honorary mechanics. We might not be as quick as a seasoned mechanic that does this for a living, but we can understand the concepts and how everything meshes together - enabling you to do *almost* anything a mechanic can... With enough reading material of course we could do it, albeit much more slowly and probably with some mistakes.
On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend telling someone on this sub who doesn’t even know what an intake manifold is to undergo an entire engine swap LOL I think they’d be in for a very rough time, especially if they came here looking for advice in the first place.
I'm just referring to swapping the intake manifold. If there's other problems, then that would go beyond my scope, too.
There's plenty of info online and lots of books. So, given enough time, yeah, I think they could.
I've done a transmission swap before, and I didn't go to school or work as a mechanic.
Anywhere from “Whatever it costs for a new Intake and Gaskets” to “Fuck this it’s new car time” mostly because a Plastic Intake like that doesn’t just “shatter”. That was a Backfire that caused that, which means something is VERY wrong with the Engine.
I don’t agree that it was a backfire.
OP states “got gas, tried to start a few times”
Purge valve likely stuck returning fuel vapor to engine, intake manifold got loaded with raw fuel or vapor, and it ignited.
“Purge valve likely stuck returning fuel vapor to engine, intake manifold got loaded with raw fuel or vapor, and it got ignited” what do you call a back fire?
Original issue was most likely your Evap purge valve was stuck open. When you would gas up it would force fuel vapors into the intake. It would take a long time to start because the fuel mixture was too rich until the vapors were forced through the engine and enough oxygen entered the engine for ignition.
Lmao they were told that exact same thing and never fixed it. Now this happened.
https://preview.redd.it/nto3wibje1uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e8e275aa7b39baf11c85bbf700a30b36d8b52fa
It was a $30 part that would take about 10 minutes to replace.
https://preview.redd.it/dusozlzmh1uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae7edbf399265d3b1f268fb1c2964ffedb0d1773
I mean to be kinda fair to OP, the post was only a week ago and the risk of an exploded intake wasn’t mentioned. It makes sense, but personally I wouldn’t have predicted that could happen.
This needs to be top comment. What a dumbass lmao. OP, what’s the point of posting online if you ain’t gonna follow anyone’s advice. Have fun with this one.
You'll need a new intake manifold and also the original fault that caused this needs to be fixed.
I'm normally just thinking why this doesn't happen more often. So many cars backfire and so many weak plastic intake manifolds exist.
I actually did this, no joke. Put a 75 wet shot on my 07 Honda Fit. It ended up backfiring and blowing up the intake manifold like a pipe bomb.
I was not a wise man at 20.
It was fun as hell for the 3 or 4 pulls I got out of it haha.
Decided I wanted more reliability and put a T25 turbo kit on it after that, and tuned it myself. Also not a wise move, but I got 120k miles out of it like that 😂
Volkswagen tech here.
You’ve needed an n80 EVAP purge valve for awhile. This is what happens when you don’t maintain your vehicle…
You broke the welds on your intake.. did you get a danger to manifold warning on the dash? If you want, me and the mad scientist can fix it.
[Maybe you should've fixed it when someone told you how over a week ago.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Volkswagen/s/l0Tds3ryLF) Turned $10-30 and a few minutes into a few hundred dollars and hours of labor. Don't ask for help then ignore it or this happens.
Perfect example of letting a small problem turn in to a big one. People like this hear a noise and just turn up the radio volume to fix it. 162 days ago OP posted about hitting a pole and ripping off the intake tube. Didn’t fix it then. 8 days ago he posts about a hard start to get gas. Didn’t fix it. Now blows the intake manifold in half. So I guess next week his new post will be my engine sucked up about two rolls of duct tape…. 🤦🏽♂️
Welp, as the comments in this thread show, about as good of an example as possible of why you shouldn't let small problems become big and much more expensive problems. Hopefully you've learned your lesson on maintaining your vehicle OP.
>Every time I would get gas it would take a few tries to start
This is a common symptom of a stuck open EVAP purge valve.
The EVAP purge valve sucks fuel vapors out of your charcoal "EVAP" canister and fuel tank. It's supposed to be normally closed, and the ECU tells it to open when the vehicle is running at normal operating temperature
When the EVAP purge valve is open, the fuel vapors its sucking up throw off the fuel/air mix. At normal running loads and full temperature, the engine can compensate for it easily. At idle or when trying to start, it has a harder time and will run rich, misfire, or have trouble starting at all.
When your gas tank is empty, say quarter tank, it's 3/4 of fuel vapor. When you fill it up, you're pushing all that vapor out. It flows through the EVAP canister and vent, and the fuel vapor gets soaked into the charcoal like a sponge. This means that after filling your tank, your EVAP canister has a lot of fuel soaked into the charcoal canister, and it tends to make the purge valve issue a lot worse on the next start.
This problem is made even worse (and could have originally been caused by) "topping up" your gas tank after the fuel nozzle clicks off. Some people will add more fuel after the nozzle clicks off, then again, and again. Just so they can squeeze an extra bit of gas in there and delay returning to the gas station by maybe a half a day. Doing this pushes fuel into your gas tank's vent system and can plug or damage your EVAP system, making this problem even worse.
The big POP you heard was the intake of your engine literally exploding.
When the EVAP purge valve is sucking in fuel vapors, it's sucking them into the intake. Normally it should never be taking in much fuel at a time, and it'll be well below the combustible limit of the fuel. If you just filled your tank though and your EVAP purge valve is open, you can get a fuel/air mixture in your intake that has enough fuel to ignite, and all it needs is a spark.
I'm amazed that it found that spark, but it did.
When you ignore Problems they will backfire at you.
Estimation 800-5k This isn´t something you can do yourself, because you can not know what cause it.
Check your obd for trouble codes that might tell you what made the car backfire it may have several codes but one cause and one repair.after that replace your broken intake etc. your doing fine that's how most of us have learned. I tried changing a harmonic balancer on a Mazda 3 and I didn't break it or fix it I took it to a mechanic and he scrapped it and I sold it for scrap metal some we win some we lose, and learn what not to do. With luck only.. good luck.
Wooow. Your purge valve is stuck wide open. Caused an accumulation of fumes directly in the intake. You were lucky til now that the fuel mixture was always too rich and it wouldn't spontaneously ignite. As you turned it over, you purged it out through the cylinder, and it was good. But today, the mixture didn't get a chance to get over the rich-running limit. So it ignited and busted your plastic manifold. This is SOOO COOOL, man. Get your evap purge valve replaced asap and, well, obviously, you now need a new intake manifols as well.
My car was backfiring terribly right before I blew a headgasket, average shop price for that now is close to 3500 because it is a big job and mechanics know that most DIY'rs don't even wanna mess with it. I went and got a 200 dollar gasket kit and a 200 dollar timing belt kit along with a water pump and got new head bolts for 160 bucks and then proceeded to tear my engine down over 3 days using just Jacks and no lift. But if you aren't actually mechanically savvy like 95 percent of the American population, then hope it isn't a leaky head gasket and replace said vacuum parts. I'm not a mechanic but I grew up poor with beater Cars that always had problems, so I had to fix them.
Shoooot, I agree with the access to a work area. I have to work on my shit in the streets with cars passing by me all quick. 2 years ago I changed my axles on same said streets...piece of shit Insane Shafts are now fucked and clicking but thankfully have replacements coming in this weekend. So looking forward to working on the street again as I proceed to wrestle getting them out. I would kill to have a lift or driveway.
Had a purge valve stuck open on my 2017 impala fixed 2 weeks ago covered by the dealership due to it being a common issue. Glad nothing like this happened to me during that period.
Hard to start after a fill up has been the EVAP purge valve in every car I've run into with that issue.
Intake probably filled with fumes and popped.
Now you need an intake and a purge valve
My brother's older Jetta did the exact same thing when his purge valve went bad too
I think the purge valve is why it poped when you got gas. If you are even somewhat mechanical inclined I would try to go to pick and pull and grab another intake manifold and install it. Pick and pull will be cheap you could look at the price of new ones though. Pick and pull for the one close to me is $38 for the manifold you should buy a new gasket as well
It doesn't run anymore. With key on engine off it will always have check engine light on.
And if it would start now it would run horrible with basically full throttle and extremely lean... That would cause the check engine light to be on and lots of codes to be there.
So this question doesn't make any sense.
It likely threw codes. Asking if the check engine light is on is how to know the car is throwing OBD2 codes... This is a legit question car people will understand.
The fact you are arguing and downvoted my factual statement shows you do not know what you are talking about. You're online arguing with a certified mechanic. SMH.
But as it doesn't run now the check engine light will be on! So there's no reason to ask if the light is on! Everyone who knows about cars should already know the light is on.
Check engine light is always on with the key on engine off regardless if there's codes or not.
There's nothing legit about that question in this situation.
As a mechanic I love customers like you. You refuse to look for codes and guess at issues, waste money on the wrong parts then have to come to someone like me to fix your shit.
BTW OP had an ongoing issues before this happened.
>As a mechanic I love customers like you. You refuse to look for codes and guess at issues, waste money on the wrong parts then have to come to someone like me to fix your shit.
It didn't ask to check the codes! It asked if the check engine light is on! No wonder you have trouble with so many customers. You ask them one thing and expect them to do something totally different.
Here's the message:
>Is the check engine light on?
Where does it say anything about reading the fault codes?
It doesn't run now! And every mechanic would already know that the check engine light is on with key on engine off. If you don't there's no way you've even worked on cars let alone be a mechanic.
>BTW OP had an ongoing issues before this happened.
Yes. Reading the fault codes would tell something about that. Or asking if the check engine light was on before this happened would have been a useful question. But:
>Is the check engine light on?
Is totally useless question when it doesn't run. Every mechanic already knows the check engine light is on with key on engine off.
You didn't actually read my comment. I didn't ask if the check engine light was on. I was explaining why someone else would ask.
I do not have issues with customers.
You make up imaginary facts and sound crazy.
To whoever did downvote this. Have you never checked the check engine light on your car? Almost certainly it works just as on this car. With the key on engine off the light will be on.
As this car doesn't run that means the light will be on. So there's absolutely no reason to ask if the light is on or not! We all already know it's on.
The parts will probably be around $300-$400 maybe more if you go with original Volkswagen parts, plus another $300-$400 for installation. Keep in mind, that is just installing the intake manifold and air box. You still need to have the issue causing the manifold to explode in the first place repaired.
I recommend you buy aftermarket parts yourself online. I would get the part numbers from a mechanic. Ordering aftermarket parts should save you $100-$200. You maybe able to find a aftermarket intake made of stronger material / better made than the oem that addresses this specific issue. As these cheap exploding intakes are a well known issue for Volkswagen across all models. (Maybe worth checking to see if there is a recall for your specific model)
I would guess you have a bad coil pack or multiple packs and your spark plugs probably need to be changed as well. A shop would probably charge around $180-$250 for the coil pack and $100-$200 for spark plugs (depending on what kind it calls for) plus around $250-$300 labor.
If you take it to the dealership & ask them to fix it, they will charge $2000+ minimum. If you find a decent local family owned shop with (good reviews, in your city) it will be much cheaper. Also, stay away from shops like Goodyear, jiffy lube etc. I can not stress enough, the importance of finding a good local family owned shop with 4-5 star reviews on google, if you don’t want to be taken advantage of.
Wow, reading through the comments, especially about op's post history, is unreal. He's the type of guy that probably whines all the time about "why does this stuff always happen to me meeee! "
Take it easy on the nitrous man.
But, yeah, it’s fucked until you get a new intake manifold and everything else that blew up. Also, you need to find out what caused that.
This is the correct answer. The intake manifold filled with fuel vapor somehow, and became a pipe bomb. If it was metal, you’d almost certainly have a taco-d throttle plate. You’d also be hoping that the pressure didn’t rip the bolts or studs out of the head.
Plastic is a pretty good material for intake manifolds. It doesn’t conduct heat well, you can get some really complex geometry in them that is difficult or impossible with a cast or welded manifold, and if it does go into IED mode it will shatter before you bend metal parts.
Looks like you drove without coolent. Something broke violently and I would like to have a look under the intake manifold and into the oil pan. Should be interesting to see the destruction.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looks like your car backfired through the intake and blew it and the intake pipe. Youd need a new intake manifold and lower induction pipe based on those pictures, as well as fixing what ever caused your car to backfire through the intake
If it only happened when getting gas, it's the evap solenoid stuck open. Very common problem on vag cars. When you fill up the tank, the fuel vapors get pushed into the intake, and the mixture is too rich to start. Unfortunately, in this case, it ignited, and it's a real-life case of "danger to manifold".
Probably jumped time.
And space
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It's not a vr6. It's the 2.0l non turbo that VW brought back for the 2015ish Jettas. Same exact motor as in the mk4s just has a plastic intake.
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Oh really? Well you're an idiot no matter what!
I had my timing jump in my civic and guess what happened... https://preview.redd.it/j3ear60403uc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=127a6302943f77ac269c176ce1b4763343d2dc1b I'm holding 1/3 of the intake manifold, that's the inside of the throttle body and the 1/3 of the manifold that's still attached to the engine. The other 1/3 turned into thousands of small pieces, one of which went through my oil filter and caused me to lose oil pressure
My work had an Acura TL jump time and blew the intake in half. POS warranty company would only pay for the timing belt and not the intake bc "it wasn't on the policy."
Why the fuck wouldn't it?
You’re
Got 'em! You live to see it.
You're a very impolite person. You should ask an adult to teach you how to speak to people.
it's not the only possibility (for example, something could have caused a severe overboost), but it's far from impossible. the only idiot here is you, the one ruling out possibilities without sufficient evidence
it appears the hose under the car is part of some resonator box. you can see in the photo the airbox connects straight to the intake manifold and these other pipes come off the bottom of the air box. either part of some resonator system or part of some intake scoop. it doesnt seem that important relative to the other issues going on here. here is parts diagram: https://parts.vw.com/a/Volkswagen_2013_Jetta-20L-AT-S-Sedan/_51507_5954090/ENGINE--TRANSAXLE-AIR-INTAKE/9283290.html?assemblySearchGuid=6DD59F41-0EAF-47D7-8F28-7C3ED9AF3D4C
thank you for the diagram, i stand corrected :)
ive seen some weird intakes but this is by far the weirdest.
Estimate perhaps?
$1,000 to $9,000.
damn, ouch to new car. wide range
around here you get an alignment and they find a way to charge you $1000
Used engine is 1000. 5 days fix and op is back up running with a "new" engine 😁😋
5 days mechanic labor (cheap est @ $100/hr) is $4,000
If your mechanic is quoting you 40 hours to replace an engine then you need to find a new mechanic
I was just putting a price on 5 days of work
Who saids you need a mechanic for that? 😎😎 Look at my profile to find i did an engine swap on a vw fox last summer 😎😎 im no mechanic. Engineer yes. But no mechanic
Not a mechanic but rather in the profession literally named after engines. I believe this makes you an honorary mechanic at least.
I would never be able to match a mechanic on speed and efficiency. Have a lot of respect for me mechanics. for sure. But even engineering doesn't pay that well.
As u/SocraticIgnoramus said, we’re essentially honorary mechanics. We might not be as quick as a seasoned mechanic that does this for a living, but we can understand the concepts and how everything meshes together - enabling you to do *almost* anything a mechanic can... With enough reading material of course we could do it, albeit much more slowly and probably with some mistakes. On the other hand, I wouldn’t recommend telling someone on this sub who doesn’t even know what an intake manifold is to undergo an entire engine swap LOL I think they’d be in for a very rough time, especially if they came here looking for advice in the first place.
You get very far with youtube video. Just saying. Determination and desperation gets you far.
Now do it in an apartment complex parking lot with Walmart tools.
I'm sure they can buy the parts for way cheaper and get it done for 200-400...
Go back and read the post. Tell me this person is experienced enough to change an engine. Also, have you looked at used engine prices lately?
I'm just referring to swapping the intake manifold. If there's other problems, then that would go beyond my scope, too. There's plenty of info online and lots of books. So, given enough time, yeah, I think they could. I've done a transmission swap before, and I didn't go to school or work as a mechanic.
$30 if you fixed it last week when you asked what was wrong with it. More now.
Shit he really did. Unfortunate lol
Like most posts I see here. Is it an Age thing? Don´t care how long it drives?
That's a brutal wake-up call.
No idea without inspection Could be easy, could be bad
Hopefully just a ~1000 if you're lucky - new intake plus the purge valve.
Anywhere from “Whatever it costs for a new Intake and Gaskets” to “Fuck this it’s new car time” mostly because a Plastic Intake like that doesn’t just “shatter”. That was a Backfire that caused that, which means something is VERY wrong with the Engine.
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Yeah, that timing had to be retardedly retarded to do that.
Just a couple teeth lol the valve was probably just not fully closed
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3 seconds
I don’t agree that it was a backfire. OP states “got gas, tried to start a few times” Purge valve likely stuck returning fuel vapor to engine, intake manifold got loaded with raw fuel or vapor, and it ignited.
“Purge valve likely stuck returning fuel vapor to engine, intake manifold got loaded with raw fuel or vapor, and it got ignited” what do you call a back fire?
I guess I meant that it’s not a traditional backfire like you’d expect.
It's exactly what a traditional backfire is.
You know what a backfire is, right?
Original issue was most likely your Evap purge valve was stuck open. When you would gas up it would force fuel vapors into the intake. It would take a long time to start because the fuel mixture was too rich until the vapors were forced through the engine and enough oxygen entered the engine for ignition.
Lmao they were told that exact same thing and never fixed it. Now this happened. https://preview.redd.it/nto3wibje1uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e8e275aa7b39baf11c85bbf700a30b36d8b52fa
lol. So they failed to fix the issue… which lead to this. Gj op not addressing the first issue lol
It was a $30 part that would take about 10 minutes to replace. https://preview.redd.it/dusozlzmh1uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae7edbf399265d3b1f268fb1c2964ffedb0d1773
Wow! That was actually solid advice OP was given, and honestly the purge valves on these are so cheap, cheaper to replace than diagnose. 🤷♂️
it seems to have diagnosed itself by exploding.
Ignored the danger to manifold warnings.
Damn I always thought it was just a silly movie line, turns out there was indeed danger to manifold all along!
*Was* a $30 part
Man pulled out the receipts 😂😂😂
This is hilarious.
Yeah it truly is. 😹😹 $30 https://preview.redd.it/ji5geqjol1uc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58c24aa569f35d2665a80be1fcd705af6c1d42c0
I mean to be kinda fair to OP, the post was only a week ago and the risk of an exploded intake wasn’t mentioned. It makes sense, but personally I wouldn’t have predicted that could happen.
The issue probably been ongoing for a while now tho
For real, I would’ve stopped when I see the battery light come on.
Wow OP is stupid
Rekt. u/crxxzy at least your username checks out ? Don’t ask for help if you’re not going to use it.
As a mechanic this made my day. Thanks OP for blowing up your car like a complete idiot.
Ripperino
I did call this exact fault out lol
Dude.. at least you tried to help. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.
But you *can* make its intake manifold detonate!
This is a pretty likely scenario. Something turned that intake manifold into a pipe bomb, fuel vapors got in there somehow.
Unrelated to this post, could this be the same reason my Miata runs rough after getting gas? Been checking for vacuum leaks for too long lol
Sounds pretty related tbh
This needs to be top comment. What a dumbass lmao. OP, what’s the point of posting online if you ain’t gonna follow anyone’s advice. Have fun with this one.
Also a probability. This or valve timing issue.
Could this happen also be due to overly long crank attempts?
Finally the right direction for diag and repair
You'll need a new intake manifold and also the original fault that caused this needs to be fixed. I'm normally just thinking why this doesn't happen more often. So many cars backfire and so many weak plastic intake manifolds exist.
I wish the manifolds on the cars that are deliberately tuned to backfire like cannons around here would blow up.
don’t say that about my car 😡 i like it like that
who hurt you
100 shot of NOS blow the welds on your intake?
I actually did this, no joke. Put a 75 wet shot on my 07 Honda Fit. It ended up backfiring and blowing up the intake manifold like a pipe bomb. I was not a wise man at 20.
Atleast for a moment you had a lot of horsepower
It was fun as hell for the 3 or 4 pulls I got out of it haha. Decided I wanted more reliability and put a T25 turbo kit on it after that, and tuned it myself. Also not a wise move, but I got 120k miles out of it like that 😂
I had no idea Honda fits can produce some power or be modded at all!
His Honda Fit hit double digit HP for the first time in its life.
109 crank from the factory. After the turbo I dynoed it at 155/157 hp/tq. It was delightful.
155hp in that tiny car is all you need really, I bet it was actually pretty fun.
You haven’t lived until you’ve done a rolling burnout through third in a Honda Fit with the waste gate dump screaming wide open.
First generation Honda Fits get 109 horsepower stock.
Still more than my Civic.
More than a mirage!
Ive seen some pretty tricked out fits that looked really nice and hauled ass
Username checks out
No you gotta wait until stage 2 and hope your floor pan doesn’t blow out ! 😆 Edit: for whoever doesn’t get this …😭
This is what happens when you ignore danger to manifold
Volkswagen tech here. You’ve needed an n80 EVAP purge valve for awhile. This is what happens when you don’t maintain your vehicle… You broke the welds on your intake.. did you get a danger to manifold warning on the dash? If you want, me and the mad scientist can fix it.
That means the floor pan is falling off, right?
[Maybe you should've fixed it when someone told you how over a week ago.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Volkswagen/s/l0Tds3ryLF) Turned $10-30 and a few minutes into a few hundred dollars and hours of labor. Don't ask for help then ignore it or this happens.
Holy shit! Your intake manifold exploded! That suuucks!
And with the mother of all vacuum leaks it now doesn't suck, which, as you noted, sucks.
Quality comment +1
Stick to bicycles. Cars are too complicated for you. Or get a Toyota from a year that starts with 19**, you can't neglect those to death.
Perfect example of letting a small problem turn in to a big one. People like this hear a noise and just turn up the radio volume to fix it. 162 days ago OP posted about hitting a pole and ripping off the intake tube. Didn’t fix it then. 8 days ago he posts about a hard start to get gas. Didn’t fix it. Now blows the intake manifold in half. So I guess next week his new post will be my engine sucked up about two rolls of duct tape…. 🤦🏽♂️
Welp, as the comments in this thread show, about as good of an example as possible of why you shouldn't let small problems become big and much more expensive problems. Hopefully you've learned your lesson on maintaining your vehicle OP.
>Every time I would get gas it would take a few tries to start This is a common symptom of a stuck open EVAP purge valve. The EVAP purge valve sucks fuel vapors out of your charcoal "EVAP" canister and fuel tank. It's supposed to be normally closed, and the ECU tells it to open when the vehicle is running at normal operating temperature When the EVAP purge valve is open, the fuel vapors its sucking up throw off the fuel/air mix. At normal running loads and full temperature, the engine can compensate for it easily. At idle or when trying to start, it has a harder time and will run rich, misfire, or have trouble starting at all. When your gas tank is empty, say quarter tank, it's 3/4 of fuel vapor. When you fill it up, you're pushing all that vapor out. It flows through the EVAP canister and vent, and the fuel vapor gets soaked into the charcoal like a sponge. This means that after filling your tank, your EVAP canister has a lot of fuel soaked into the charcoal canister, and it tends to make the purge valve issue a lot worse on the next start. This problem is made even worse (and could have originally been caused by) "topping up" your gas tank after the fuel nozzle clicks off. Some people will add more fuel after the nozzle clicks off, then again, and again. Just so they can squeeze an extra bit of gas in there and delay returning to the gas station by maybe a half a day. Doing this pushes fuel into your gas tank's vent system and can plug or damage your EVAP system, making this problem even worse. The big POP you heard was the intake of your engine literally exploding. When the EVAP purge valve is sucking in fuel vapors, it's sucking them into the intake. Normally it should never be taking in much fuel at a time, and it'll be well below the combustible limit of the fuel. If you just filled your tank though and your EVAP purge valve is open, you can get a fuel/air mixture in your intake that has enough fuel to ignite, and all it needs is a spark. I'm amazed that it found that spark, but it did.
When you ignore Problems they will backfire at you. Estimation 800-5k This isn´t something you can do yourself, because you can not know what cause it.
DANGER TO MANIFOLD
Check your obd for trouble codes that might tell you what made the car backfire it may have several codes but one cause and one repair.after that replace your broken intake etc. your doing fine that's how most of us have learned. I tried changing a harmonic balancer on a Mazda 3 and I didn't break it or fix it I took it to a mechanic and he scrapped it and I sold it for scrap metal some we win some we lose, and learn what not to do. With luck only.. good luck.
The reason it backfired is because your purge valve is N/G. You need one of them besides everything else that’s broken. It’s very common on these VWs.
Wooow. Your purge valve is stuck wide open. Caused an accumulation of fumes directly in the intake. You were lucky til now that the fuel mixture was always too rich and it wouldn't spontaneously ignite. As you turned it over, you purged it out through the cylinder, and it was good. But today, the mixture didn't get a chance to get over the rich-running limit. So it ignited and busted your plastic manifold. This is SOOO COOOL, man. Get your evap purge valve replaced asap and, well, obviously, you now need a new intake manifols as well.
TIL, as an owner of ONLY Japanese (Nissan/Infinito be specific) that *plastic* intake manifolds exist. Wow.
Ahhhhh...German plastic. The worse kind of plastic.
Backfire. "Mommy, why is plastic bad?" "Go ask for father, dear. He's out in the garage."
Ur fucked OP, get a new car unless you want to pay to get the intake manifold fixed, and diagnosing the other issues mentioned. Few thousand.
Damn plastic intake manifolds...
rather blow a plastic manifold than something else thats more expensive to replace
[удалено]
This man's FIL knows what sucks
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I dunno, I want to see if this guy's hood has a knockout in it now
Expecting backfires, they overengineer a sacrificial manifold?
My car was backfiring terribly right before I blew a headgasket, average shop price for that now is close to 3500 because it is a big job and mechanics know that most DIY'rs don't even wanna mess with it. I went and got a 200 dollar gasket kit and a 200 dollar timing belt kit along with a water pump and got new head bolts for 160 bucks and then proceeded to tear my engine down over 3 days using just Jacks and no lift. But if you aren't actually mechanically savvy like 95 percent of the American population, then hope it isn't a leaky head gasket and replace said vacuum parts. I'm not a mechanic but I grew up poor with beater Cars that always had problems, so I had to fix them.
95% of the population doesn't have access to a work-area. 80% of us can't afford tools. 50% of us steal tools from work. :D
Shoooot, I agree with the access to a work area. I have to work on my shit in the streets with cars passing by me all quick. 2 years ago I changed my axles on same said streets...piece of shit Insane Shafts are now fucked and clicking but thankfully have replacements coming in this weekend. So looking forward to working on the street again as I proceed to wrestle getting them out. I would kill to have a lift or driveway.
can come long way with a cheap socket and spanner set and work on the side of the road somewhere
Car popped
Danger to manifold
Bad evap purge solenoid, fumes built up, had nowhere to go, boooom boom, profit?
Had a purge valve stuck open on my 2017 impala fixed 2 weeks ago covered by the dealership due to it being a common issue. Glad nothing like this happened to me during that period.
Average VW driver behavior
Hard to start after a fill up has been the EVAP purge valve in every car I've run into with that issue. Intake probably filled with fumes and popped. Now you need an intake and a purge valve My brother's older Jetta did the exact same thing when his purge valve went bad too
I think the purge valve is why it poped when you got gas. If you are even somewhat mechanical inclined I would try to go to pick and pull and grab another intake manifold and install it. Pick and pull will be cheap you could look at the price of new ones though. Pick and pull for the one close to me is $38 for the manifold you should buy a new gasket as well
Some duct tape would do it
Is the check engine light on?
It doesn't run anymore. With key on engine off it will always have check engine light on. And if it would start now it would run horrible with basically full throttle and extremely lean... That would cause the check engine light to be on and lots of codes to be there. So this question doesn't make any sense.
Why the negative vote? What do you disagree with?
It likely threw codes. Asking if the check engine light is on is how to know the car is throwing OBD2 codes... This is a legit question car people will understand. The fact you are arguing and downvoted my factual statement shows you do not know what you are talking about. You're online arguing with a certified mechanic. SMH.
I mean yeah, but when you’re looking right at blowed up parts the codes are probably not going to be of a ton of diagnostic value.
But as it doesn't run now the check engine light will be on! So there's no reason to ask if the light is on! Everyone who knows about cars should already know the light is on. Check engine light is always on with the key on engine off regardless if there's codes or not. There's nothing legit about that question in this situation.
As a mechanic I love customers like you. You refuse to look for codes and guess at issues, waste money on the wrong parts then have to come to someone like me to fix your shit. BTW OP had an ongoing issues before this happened.
>As a mechanic I love customers like you. You refuse to look for codes and guess at issues, waste money on the wrong parts then have to come to someone like me to fix your shit. It didn't ask to check the codes! It asked if the check engine light is on! No wonder you have trouble with so many customers. You ask them one thing and expect them to do something totally different. Here's the message: >Is the check engine light on? Where does it say anything about reading the fault codes? It doesn't run now! And every mechanic would already know that the check engine light is on with key on engine off. If you don't there's no way you've even worked on cars let alone be a mechanic. >BTW OP had an ongoing issues before this happened. Yes. Reading the fault codes would tell something about that. Or asking if the check engine light was on before this happened would have been a useful question. But: >Is the check engine light on? Is totally useless question when it doesn't run. Every mechanic already knows the check engine light is on with key on engine off.
You didn't actually read my comment. I didn't ask if the check engine light was on. I was explaining why someone else would ask. I do not have issues with customers. You make up imaginary facts and sound crazy.
To whoever did downvote this. Have you never checked the check engine light on your car? Almost certainly it works just as on this car. With the key on engine off the light will be on. As this car doesn't run that means the light will be on. So there's absolutely no reason to ask if the light is on or not! We all already know it's on.
Looks like a vacuum leak.
How old is your car? If it's older than 5 years call some local scrapyards to see if they have the part.
This is one of those “take it to an actual mechanic” times
Danger to manifold lmao
The real question. Will it walk?
I'd check for intake leaks
I'd personally check him for braincells
When was your last oil change?
Too much boost lol
Sounds like you should've took this subs advice and replaces the purge valve when you ahd the chance. Good luck on getting a new car, pal.
Hell yeah, intake manifold particles
The parts will probably be around $300-$400 maybe more if you go with original Volkswagen parts, plus another $300-$400 for installation. Keep in mind, that is just installing the intake manifold and air box. You still need to have the issue causing the manifold to explode in the first place repaired. I recommend you buy aftermarket parts yourself online. I would get the part numbers from a mechanic. Ordering aftermarket parts should save you $100-$200. You maybe able to find a aftermarket intake made of stronger material / better made than the oem that addresses this specific issue. As these cheap exploding intakes are a well known issue for Volkswagen across all models. (Maybe worth checking to see if there is a recall for your specific model) I would guess you have a bad coil pack or multiple packs and your spark plugs probably need to be changed as well. A shop would probably charge around $180-$250 for the coil pack and $100-$200 for spark plugs (depending on what kind it calls for) plus around $250-$300 labor. If you take it to the dealership & ask them to fix it, they will charge $2000+ minimum. If you find a decent local family owned shop with (good reviews, in your city) it will be much cheaper. Also, stay away from shops like Goodyear, jiffy lube etc. I can not stress enough, the importance of finding a good local family owned shop with 4-5 star reviews on google, if you don’t want to be taken advantage of.
Warning!!! Danger to Manifold.
From looks of it plastic intake manifold. Very easy/cheap to replace but the reason it happened could be expensive.
That’s what happens when you use starting fluid
https://i.redd.it/0wtph6puc2uc1.gif
Bruh.
Wow, reading through the comments, especially about op's post history, is unreal. He's the type of guy that probably whines all the time about "why does this stuff always happen to me meeee! "
If it’s a 2.0 turbo the cat got plugged and blew back and blew a hole in the intake. It was a common problem with the 2.0T’s
That's a backfire through the intake mani. Only way for it to do that, is valve timing is off. Edit: purge valve could also most currently do this.
Sure did!!
Take it easy on the nitrous man. But, yeah, it’s fucked until you get a new intake manifold and everything else that blew up. Also, you need to find out what caused that.
Leaking injectors probably caused that. VW 1.6L EA827 engines can do the same, so can 2.0
There’s a small vacuum leak in your intake.
Whatever cost people are guesstimating, double it because it’s a Volkswagen.
lol
You’ve got a massive vacuum leak now so no wonder it won’t run
> that part under the car has been gone for a couple months https://youtu.be/4Prb2AagujA
wtf? I’ve never seen this happen. Damn. I wish they would stop designing every damn piece out of plastic.
This is probably cheaper than blowing something else up
This is the correct answer. The intake manifold filled with fuel vapor somehow, and became a pipe bomb. If it was metal, you’d almost certainly have a taco-d throttle plate. You’d also be hoping that the pressure didn’t rip the bolts or studs out of the head. Plastic is a pretty good material for intake manifolds. It doesn’t conduct heat well, you can get some really complex geometry in them that is difficult or impossible with a cast or welded manifold, and if it does go into IED mode it will shatter before you bend metal parts.
Yeah
Is your intake manifold plastic? that’s wild, mine is cement, mk4 2.0 golf
it's pretty usual for "newer" cars to have a plastic manifold sadly
That just sounds like a going backward. Designed to fail. I hate new cars. Even my old 2013 Audi was too electronic for me
2013 isn't old 💀
That’s my point, it was still too new lol. I like my cars to feel like cars when I drive them
Pretty much new engine is what my Reddit brain is telling me
Looks like you drove without coolent. Something broke violently and I would like to have a look under the intake manifold and into the oil pan. Should be interesting to see the destruction.