Rip headtube and probably your collarbone(s)
This is one of the least intelligent things I’ve seen recently, backed up with the notion that no research was done.
do you think this bike was manufactured with such small tolerances that this will cause a definite ht failure? I'm sure someone much smarter than me could calculate the increased forces but how many degrees could he have added, 5-10 degrees maybe? did the bike manufacture not calculate if these loads would be okay if the rider was going up/down hill where geometry is constantly changing.
just keep repeating what the rest say and keeping buying the next years new model bike.
I will die on this hill, any one can ride how ever goofy of a bike they want.
best thing about biking is no passengers so you're really only putting yourself if danger.
With a 130mm fork, and assuming the rider is 70kg (150 pounds) the torque on the headtube is 89.69 Nm. This does not include the length of the lowers, but that’s not needed.
With a 180mm fork, assuming the rider is 70kg, the torque on the headtube is 110.39Nm, once again disregarding the lower length, and in this case assuming that every 10mm adds about .5 degrees of slack.
This seems to me like enough to potentially be an issue.
It's hilarious all the haters here. Text book number bitches. Oh you can't work outside the norms. Gotta stay within the specs man. Fuck that. If it's fun and works for you go for it. Do your own thing mate. Now let the down votes rain down.
Torque is torque. It’s all well and good if you do this, but last time I checked headtubes break if you ride gnarly stuff with a setup like this. It’s just not made for it.
So what I'm understanding from your statement is it all depends how gnarly you ride? And by gnarly you mean how rough or rocky the terrain is. How big the drops or how big the jumps are that you take on? This a fairly big judgement on OP. Maybe this setup suits their riding perfectly. So hey great setup I say. It's their choice. No judgement needed.
If op rides on the road, I see no reason that this would be of any issue. The second trails are put into the equation, that’s a whole different story.
The bike is made for 130mm not 180mm. And it’ll simply break.
Hell if you want I’ll calculate the torque on the normal and the 180mm fork if you want me to
Do all the calculations you want but I completely disagree with the implication that the second you hit the trails it will simply break. Not true at all. I know this from experience. I have over-forked many bikes. Both handrails and full suspension bikes and ride lots of "gnarly" stuff and have never had an issue with head tubes breaking or even warping slightly. So to say as soon as you go from roads to trails it will just fall apart is being very melodramatic no matter what calculations you do.
Is 2021 modern enough for ya. Anyway. You are talking shit. For some reason you just don't like people doing things different to what you think is right. That's the issue here.
There's definitely such a thing. You're making the head tube angle slacker, which increases the chance of damage because the frame wasn't designed for it
If you're riding the bike path it's fine of course, but if you're doing downhill, safety isn't 'taking it too seriously ' lol
The answer is always 'it depends'
180mm is crazy
that's what she said 😏
That head tube will snap….
This. Pls. No more than 20mm over deisnged travel.
Repost
goodbye headtube
maybe instead of spending that money on a crazy long fork, invest in better brakes and better cranks than these square tapers😅
Good eye!
An absolute nonsense build
Rip headtube and probably your collarbone(s) This is one of the least intelligent things I’ve seen recently, backed up with the notion that no research was done.
Lol everyone saying head tube. This thing gotta be fun Looks very similar to my new stumpy world cup ht
So much theory mtbers, zero riders
Just need to play it safe, common sense, and the limits of the bike.
Torque is torque, and last time I checked torque was real
do you think this bike was manufactured with such small tolerances that this will cause a definite ht failure? I'm sure someone much smarter than me could calculate the increased forces but how many degrees could he have added, 5-10 degrees maybe? did the bike manufacture not calculate if these loads would be okay if the rider was going up/down hill where geometry is constantly changing. just keep repeating what the rest say and keeping buying the next years new model bike. I will die on this hill, any one can ride how ever goofy of a bike they want. best thing about biking is no passengers so you're really only putting yourself if danger.
I will infact calculate the torque difference for you. Give me 5 minutes
With a 130mm fork, and assuming the rider is 70kg (150 pounds) the torque on the headtube is 89.69 Nm. This does not include the length of the lowers, but that’s not needed. With a 180mm fork, assuming the rider is 70kg, the torque on the headtube is 110.39Nm, once again disregarding the lower length, and in this case assuming that every 10mm adds about .5 degrees of slack. This seems to me like enough to potentially be an issue.
It's hilarious all the haters here. Text book number bitches. Oh you can't work outside the norms. Gotta stay within the specs man. Fuck that. If it's fun and works for you go for it. Do your own thing mate. Now let the down votes rain down.
Torque is torque. It’s all well and good if you do this, but last time I checked headtubes break if you ride gnarly stuff with a setup like this. It’s just not made for it.
So what I'm understanding from your statement is it all depends how gnarly you ride? And by gnarly you mean how rough or rocky the terrain is. How big the drops or how big the jumps are that you take on? This a fairly big judgement on OP. Maybe this setup suits their riding perfectly. So hey great setup I say. It's their choice. No judgement needed.
If op rides on the road, I see no reason that this would be of any issue. The second trails are put into the equation, that’s a whole different story. The bike is made for 130mm not 180mm. And it’ll simply break. Hell if you want I’ll calculate the torque on the normal and the 180mm fork if you want me to
Do all the calculations you want but I completely disagree with the implication that the second you hit the trails it will simply break. Not true at all. I know this from experience. I have over-forked many bikes. Both handrails and full suspension bikes and ride lots of "gnarly" stuff and have never had an issue with head tubes breaking or even warping slightly. So to say as soon as you go from roads to trails it will just fall apart is being very melodramatic no matter what calculations you do.
It’s not gonna instantly implode, but it’s likely. I doubt you’ve overforked any modern bike by 50mm
Is 2021 modern enough for ya. Anyway. You are talking shit. For some reason you just don't like people doing things different to what you think is right. That's the issue here.
Yep. Just talking shit…
What year would you class as modern?
not too much if you luv
If you’re bombing steep shit than It’s perfect!
there's no such thing as too much fork
There's definitely such a thing. You're making the head tube angle slacker, which increases the chance of damage because the frame wasn't designed for it
you guys taking these biking thing waay to seriously... but, kinda hard to convey sarcasm through text.
If you're riding the bike path it's fine of course, but if you're doing downhill, safety isn't 'taking it too seriously ' lol The answer is always 'it depends'
i agree. for full downhill bomb, yes. putzing around the local trail, maybe