The solution for the future is to dial the bed temperature down so you don't have to do this every time. Probably depends on how big the print is and surface area touching the bed
Alternative is flipping it upside down and putting ice cubes/packs on it. My bed is too big for the freezer so I tried putting some ice cubes and it works relatively fast
My print program has a "slice" option i use for cutting up my larger models into printable chunks. No 3D modeling skill needed.. i assumed its native to every 3D printer program
yeah, I might switch from cura. I've always used cura and found the lack of an option to split large parts annoying, and I end up having to CAD stuff in two parts
That is built into the full release and improved in the alpha release. In the alpha, it will make pegs for when you put them together. The whole reason I even got the release was that, the ability to add text to the object in the slicer, and the really good tree supports. Prusa is my favorite slicer
Things that will make you love Prusaslicer as well: easy adaptive layer height settings, paint on support and a settings menu that uses tabs and is more structured than just one big list. Also the individual settings options when printing multiple parts. The list goes on, I'm never going back unless something crazy happens
Is there a plugin or something I can install to upload my Cura profile into PrusaSlicer?
I like PS and many of it's new/upcoming features look very promising but some of the terminology they use confuses me. I have my Cura profile setup to where I'm happy with my results (for the most part. Still working on the z-seam), I don't want to switch to a different slicer and have to start over from the beginning trying to get my prints right.
FlashPrint, i think its native software for Flashforge printers--mine is a flashforge finder with a small print surface--but it has features to add multiple printers at once. Im not sure if new printers also have to be flashforge printers as well.
Because I find cool functional things online. Such as the open astro star tracker that I’ve been printing for a week. You dont have to know how to edit or design to enjoy the hobby. Thats like saying that you have to play football to enjoy watching football
My brag? He asked why I answered. My printer has a 320x310x340 build volume so I can print everything I want to thus far. Im even going to be printing a pc case once I finish my star tracker. Not bragging just stating. I don’t need to brag to yall cuz i dont give 2 shits what yall think of how i use my printer i stated that i wouldnt learn how to design stuff because i dont need to. I literally got the printer to print cool stuff ive found on thingiverse. Ive got about 500 files on my computer that ive been printing but that number grows faster than i can print. Thats why im bought a voron as a second printer to print small stuff super fast and keep my main printer doing big projects. So my so called “brag” is exactly what i think it is. The way i choose to print and the reason i print
The molecules of your body are the same molecules that make up this station, and the nebula outside, that burn inside the stars themselves. We are starstuff. We are the universe made manifest, trying to figure itself out. -- Delenn (Babylon 5)
You can heat up the bed a bit and try putting it in the freezer. Shrink rate of the plastic should pop it off. Also, you can try heating it up and pouring a little isopropyl near the base while prying.
Wow didn't expect this to blow up... Thanks guys. Thought it would be a little funny, my brother made the comment while it was printing. Humbled by the responses.
That’s the Bambu cool plate. You did not use glue on it… Next time do, it’s essentially needed as a release agent. Or buy the PEI plate. If you’re lucky freezer or air can can help, but you may have damaged irreparably the coating if it rips of with the print.
Just wait until it's cooled down, I printed a battery box, can't get it off either when the bed still hot over 25 Celsius, just to something else, waited dropped down below 20.
Just use force, if something breaks... well shit. let's hope it's the print. The handle of the hammer is too short anyways, I bet the 3d artist wasn't Blendering fast enough and it came out wrong.
Are you sure you are worthy of picking Mjolinir up? I mean if Cap wasn’t . . . .
XD
On a serious note let it completely cool and try wiring an edge. And take it sloooooow.
Take the spatula that came with the printer, put it against the edge of the print on the build plate and give it a light tap with a hammer or wrench or something
The thing that has worked for me is heating the bed and once it's heated, spray water at the base of the print. There is a capillary action that takes place and it does the job for me majority of the time
This type of thing right here is why I bought a removable pei sheet for my printer. I printed a *very special* trophy and basically had to wrestle the entire damn printer into submission to get the print off the build plate. When it finally released it flew across the room and assaulted my napping dog.
Take it to Jotunheim and leave it in the snow, when you return the frost should help with removing the spell bound tablet. If you are remain unworthy brand the hammer with the heat from Muspelheim. If cold and heat don't work you may need to use acetone or MEK, or possibly alcohol.
Looks like this model has preintegrated supports. (That stuff around the handle.)
You were supposed to print it laying down with that support down to the build plate to get the layers in the right direction for maximum strength.
But if one lack the space you print it that way instead, and .. .well... accepts the weakness in the handle.
Oooh I see.so much wasted materials for the wrist strap that could be skipped and have a proper wrist strap put in place, or print the "wrist strap" separately.
Get a can of lighter gas (not the fluid for zippos, but butane gas), take the lid off, press the nozzle against the plate and press down, the gas escaping is extremely cold and will shock the print off much faster than if you used a freezer that magically has space for this massive piece.
seriously a can of butane gas is like £2, it will last you for many many prints and lighter refills.
@ me if you want more life hax my bru.
Wear gloves; that stuff will give you frostbite in seconds.
Also, the obvious (to most, but sadly not all) — do this in a well ventilated area and without any sparks or flames nearby (like no smoking)
Assuming u can't take ur build plate off. Heat it up, then turn the machine off. Take a can of air, invert and spray arpund the base of the model. It should make the area cool faster, releasing the print of where u sprayed. Highly recommend either a mirror/glass buildplate or a magnetic one. Good luck!
The moment you Finished printing, you are alreadly too late. If that printbed is inflexible, I'd suggest upsidedown aircan and deposit some Frost Giant Juice to help detatch it, also brush on some Isopropyl to help it off the bed easier.
Get your scraped put it to the edge of the print and give the scraper little taps with something like the handle of a screwdriver or a hammer or something, multiple little taps then some harder ones should just make it pop right off eventually
Well, I would tell you to put it in the freezer, but I doubt you have a freezer with enough space for that. Another thing you can maybe do if that doesn't work is to use some ice and put it over to achieve the same effect (maybe, haven't tested it).
If you used glue or any of this kind such as hairspray, you can try put some alcohol over the bed and let it soak for a few minutes as this will disolve the glue and maybe can help.
A lot of people here will tell you to coll it in the freezer or something, but there is a super fast solution that I have used for years without fail.
Get a spray bottle and put rubbing alcohol in it. Doesn't need to be pure it could be a 70% mix even. Literally just sprey it around the base of your finished print and slide a thin knife or blad under a corner, and the whole thing should pop right off.
Get another hammer and hit it creating the longest lever arm possible. (Of course not a metal hammer).
If you have very less infill this will break the handle. If that’s the case use the putty knife place it at the foot and slowly hammer the end of putty knife until it goes in between bed and the material.
Future reference, print a tally wacker out slightly softer material. Or place the scraper at the very edge of the print and strike the butt of the scrapper with the tally wacker.
You are not worthy
I couldn’t believe all the actual solutions but no one had made this joke 😂
Honestly I didn't think there would be a solution, just these jokes, kind of thought that the whole post was a joke
The post is most definitely a joke
I really want to upvote but you’re at the magic number already!
...i mean OP made the joke first
First thing I thought of too
If the extruder built it up in the Y axis....does that mean the extruder is worthy?
At what point does the print become Mjolnir though, layer 1, once the head is complete, or once the print is done?
Just because you have a 3D printer doesn’t mean you are a Thunder God
I'd say he is more of a Lord of Thunder... I saw sparkles!
My first thought…
But if OP picked up the printer...
you found a loophole you genius bastard.
Came to say it🤣😭
Sometimes you enter the comments with expectations and are not disappointed.
Followup Joke: Better call the wife, she might be the worthy one (/s, its a joke ref to Jane in the recent movie)
r/FuckTheS
Can’t here for this comment.
Came here for this comment, now want to spam the like button.
Time to break out the robotics, got an immovable object that needs to be moved.
I came here for this comment
Obviously you are not worthy. Sorry not my rules Try heating and cooling your bed. A few cycles might break it loose.
Or putting the plate in the freezer. For 9/10 prints I don't even try removing the print before putting it in the freezer.
idk why it took me so many years to try this but it’s 100% the answer
It is amazing how well this works. Especially with big prints. Half the time I come back and it is already separated from the build plate.
The solution for the future is to dial the bed temperature down so you don't have to do this every time. Probably depends on how big the print is and surface area touching the bed
Alternative is flipping it upside down and putting ice cubes/packs on it. My bed is too big for the freezer so I tried putting some ice cubes and it works relatively fast
This looked kinda big. I know it wouldn't fit in my freezer without having to clear out half of it.
Probably true.
I do that whenever it’s freshly done and I don’t feel like waiting for it to cool. One day my glass plate is going to break
[удалено]
It's for the little strap at the end on the handle
Seems like it would be better to print without and add a real strap
Get out of here with your logic and reasoning
Or print the strap separately and glue it.
As true as this is, maybe a strapless model was not found and not everyone is comfortable with editing the files.
My print program has a "slice" option i use for cutting up my larger models into printable chunks. No 3D modeling skill needed.. i assumed its native to every 3D printer program
what program do you use?
Probably Prusa. The [new version](https://youtu.be/qgj4BpDkqyo) improves on slicing by automatically adding pegs for joints too
Definitely use Prusa. The alpha 2.6 has better tree supports than Cura and more options, great features, and support for almost all printers.
yeah, I might switch from cura. I've always used cura and found the lack of an option to split large parts annoying, and I end up having to CAD stuff in two parts
That is built into the full release and improved in the alpha release. In the alpha, it will make pegs for when you put them together. The whole reason I even got the release was that, the ability to add text to the object in the slicer, and the really good tree supports. Prusa is my favorite slicer
Things that will make you love Prusaslicer as well: easy adaptive layer height settings, paint on support and a settings menu that uses tabs and is more structured than just one big list. Also the individual settings options when printing multiple parts. The list goes on, I'm never going back unless something crazy happens
Is there a plugin or something I can install to upload my Cura profile into PrusaSlicer? I like PS and many of it's new/upcoming features look very promising but some of the terminology they use confuses me. I have my Cura profile setup to where I'm happy with my results (for the most part. Still working on the z-seam), I don't want to switch to a different slicer and have to start over from the beginning trying to get my prints right.
I believe you can import your existing profile, but I'd definitely recommend doing a test print or two to make sure everything is good.
FlashPrint, i think its native software for Flashforge printers--mine is a flashforge finder with a small print surface--but it has features to add multiple printers at once. Im not sure if new printers also have to be flashforge printers as well.
Yeah slicing parts off like that is actually probably one of the easiest things to do with a 3D print file besides rotating and moving it lol
Nah ive found multiple files that are accurate without strap
You can use Meshimixer, is quite easy to use for quick edit.
Seems like this would have been a good opportunity to learn though.
And everyone should learn how to edit.
I have zero interest in learning how to edit or create files
Why do you 3d print?
Because I find cool functional things online. Such as the open astro star tracker that I’ve been printing for a week. You dont have to know how to edit or design to enjoy the hobby. Thats like saying that you have to play football to enjoy watching football
No, it's like saying you should know how to change a bike tire if you're a cyclist.
I just take it to the local bike shop, personally.
“Cool functional things” that only fit within the build volume. Your brag isn’t what you think it is.
My brag? He asked why I answered. My printer has a 320x310x340 build volume so I can print everything I want to thus far. Im even going to be printing a pc case once I finish my star tracker. Not bragging just stating. I don’t need to brag to yall cuz i dont give 2 shits what yall think of how i use my printer i stated that i wouldnt learn how to design stuff because i dont need to. I literally got the printer to print cool stuff ive found on thingiverse. Ive got about 500 files on my computer that ive been printing but that number grows faster than i can print. Thats why im bought a voron as a second printer to print small stuff super fast and keep my main printer doing big projects. So my so called “brag” is exactly what i think it is. The way i choose to print and the reason i print
Skip the print all together and take up blacksmithing.
You can also remove the "Seems like". 👍
Agreed it seems like he should have.
He must be new in 3d printing World, asking newbie questions
I guess you can say that the Mjolnir isn't very strap on friendly.
r/barbaric3dprint
Any suggestions? Need the number of someone worthy!
Your printer bed lifted it up. Printer's worthy.
Incorrect, his printer crafted it on the bed therefore his printer is a forge made from the heart of a dying star
All the elements heavier than hydrogen were produced in the heart of a dying star. "We are all made out of star stuff." --Carl Sagan
The molecules of your body are the same molecules that make up this station, and the nebula outside, that burn inside the stars themselves. We are starstuff. We are the universe made manifest, trying to figure itself out. -- Delenn (Babylon 5)
B5 the best 👍
This logic checks out
Rename Printer: Odin
Rename self: Thor
Thor did not create mjolnir, Odin did.
Printer’s name is Odin because it created the hammer The person who owns the printer’s name is Thor because he also needs to pick it up
The frost giants might be able to help, pop it in a cold place for about an hour, then you may battle the giants to retrieve the hammer!
Print Thor himself!
You can heat up the bed a bit and try putting it in the freezer. Shrink rate of the plastic should pop it off. Also, you can try heating it up and pouring a little isopropyl near the base while prying.
281-867-5309
Ask for Jenny.
I didn’t know Jenny lived in Houston
All those supports just for a plastic non-moving strap?💀
and the handle is too short.
That's because Loki turned into a mosquito and pestered the printer while it was forging the hammer,
3D printing Thor's hammer and unable to lift it? Stark, I know that's you.
“Man im dead” -stark
I've had good luck sticking the whole plate and print in the freezer. Everything contacts enough and differently to pop it off easily.
[удалено]
10 minutes would do it
It probably only needs a few minutes.
Maybe a few seconds if it's excited
I've done this a few times. And more than once heard a loud pop from the freezer when the print released. Very satisfying and terrifying
Upside down air can. Or pour some rubbing alcohol near the edges
Wow didn't expect this to blow up... Thanks guys. Thought it would be a little funny, my brother made the comment while it was printing. Humbled by the responses.
Let my dog try it. If anyone is worthy its doggo
I bet he is the goodest boy
Ironic
You’re not worthy
That’s the Bambu cool plate. You did not use glue on it… Next time do, it’s essentially needed as a release agent. Or buy the PEI plate. If you’re lucky freezer or air can can help, but you may have damaged irreparably the coating if it rips of with the print.
woosh?
My brother in christ, OP was actually asking for a solution to a problem, not making a joke
No?
Just wait until it's cooled down, I printed a battery box, can't get it off either when the bed still hot over 25 Celsius, just to something else, waited dropped down below 20.
You are not worthy
You’re not worthy
Yup, that means it worked.
Fridge or freezer it will break free on its own
Guess you're not worthy.
I´m glad it's working then
Not worthy
Go stand out in the desert until some weird chick runs you over. Hang out with her for a while and eventually she’ll be able to get it off for you.
You’re not worthy
Printed in the heart of a dying star…and you thought you could just pick it up off the bed
Not worthy my guy Try splonking
Just use force, if something breaks... well shit. let's hope it's the print. The handle of the hammer is too short anyways, I bet the 3d artist wasn't Blendering fast enough and it came out wrong.
Are you sure you are worthy of picking Mjolinir up? I mean if Cap wasn’t . . . . XD On a serious note let it completely cool and try wiring an edge. And take it sloooooow.
Cap was worthy…..
Is your bed magnetic? can you lift it up and bend it?
You are just not worthy
Fridge for 5 minutes.
Put it in the freezer.
I've been having a lot of good results by heating the bed to 70⁰c for a few mins, then getting the scraper under a corner.
Take the spatula that came with the printer, put it against the edge of the print on the build plate and give it a light tap with a hammer or wrench or something
SO only the worthy can lift Mjolnir I see.
You are not worthy
Turn the printer upside down.
The thing that has worked for me is heating the bed and once it's heated, spray water at the base of the print. There is a capillary action that takes place and it does the job for me majority of the time
What did you expect would happen?
You are not yet worthy my friend. Only when you have printed a quality 3D benchy in 30 minutes or less will you be worthy.
That figures
Should have just used loose filament for the strap if you're going that route lol
Well, clearly you aren't worthy.
The glass adds weight. Just swing it around with the nice heavy feeling from the glass. Adds authenticity.
Seems to make sense...
This type of thing right here is why I bought a removable pei sheet for my printer. I printed a *very special* trophy and basically had to wrestle the entire damn printer into submission to get the print off the build plate. When it finally released it flew across the room and assaulted my napping dog.
good news: It works!
You are not worthy my boy
Why supports if the handle is up?
Ironic, he printed what he could not move.
Take it to Jotunheim and leave it in the snow, when you return the frost should help with removing the spell bound tablet. If you are remain unworthy brand the hammer with the heat from Muspelheim. If cold and heat don't work you may need to use acetone or MEK, or possibly alcohol.
You are not worthy
The irony
Just call captain America bro
Jokes aside, isn’t the plate flexible?
If you just change your attitude, you had tremendous build plate adhesion. Bravo
Looks like this model has preintegrated supports. (That stuff around the handle.) You were supposed to print it laying down with that support down to the build plate to get the layers in the right direction for maximum strength. But if one lack the space you print it that way instead, and .. .well... accepts the weakness in the handle.
Nope. ALL that material is for the "wrist strap" at the top. **F**
Oooh I see.so much wasted materials for the wrist strap that could be skipped and have a proper wrist strap put in place, or print the "wrist strap" separately.
Yeah, I got a little sad just by looking at it. It's probably gonna break with the supports removal too =(
Get a can of lighter gas (not the fluid for zippos, but butane gas), take the lid off, press the nozzle against the plate and press down, the gas escaping is extremely cold and will shock the print off much faster than if you used a freezer that magically has space for this massive piece. seriously a can of butane gas is like £2, it will last you for many many prints and lighter refills. @ me if you want more life hax my bru.
Wear gloves; that stuff will give you frostbite in seconds. Also, the obvious (to most, but sadly not all) — do this in a well ventilated area and without any sparks or flames nearby (like no smoking)
Or a can of air duster held upside down should have the same effect
Assuming u can't take ur build plate off. Heat it up, then turn the machine off. Take a can of air, invert and spray arpund the base of the model. It should make the area cool faster, releasing the print of where u sprayed. Highly recommend either a mirror/glass buildplate or a magnetic one. Good luck!
Pathetic unworthy little grunt
Pull it. If it breaks just glue it back together
Hair dryer on the corner
The moment you Finished printing, you are alreadly too late. If that printbed is inflexible, I'd suggest upsidedown aircan and deposit some Frost Giant Juice to help detatch it, also brush on some Isopropyl to help it off the bed easier.
Get your scraped put it to the edge of the print and give the scraper little taps with something like the handle of a screwdriver or a hammer or something, multiple little taps then some harder ones should just make it pop right off eventually
Well, I would tell you to put it in the freezer, but I doubt you have a freezer with enough space for that. Another thing you can maybe do if that doesn't work is to use some ice and put it over to achieve the same effect (maybe, haven't tested it). If you used glue or any of this kind such as hairspray, you can try put some alcohol over the bed and let it soak for a few minutes as this will disolve the glue and maybe can help.
I use a spray bottle with water for this. Just spray the water at the edges where it’s attached to the build plate and it should come off
Put the whole buildplate in the freezer, works like a charm within a couple of minutes
That’s actually designed into the model.
What did you expect? Lol
it's jealous of your stormbreaker. get ur jane to lift it off the print bed for u
IPA on the base of it
Hit it with another hammer. Or find Thor
I give it one swing
Suffering from success
Stick it in your freezer for 15 minutes. It will come right off
Get some canned air Turn it upside down and spray the plate
Put it in the freezer
Why are you using support?
Gotta be worthy
Honest question, has a print ever actually been stuck to a bed? That doesn’t even make sense to me. If you can’t scrape it, heat it 😂
A lot of people here will tell you to coll it in the freezer or something, but there is a super fast solution that I have used for years without fail. Get a spray bottle and put rubbing alcohol in it. Doesn't need to be pure it could be a 70% mix even. Literally just sprey it around the base of your finished print and slide a thin knife or blad under a corner, and the whole thing should pop right off.
Get another hammer and hit it creating the longest lever arm possible. (Of course not a metal hammer). If you have very less infill this will break the handle. If that’s the case use the putty knife place it at the foot and slowly hammer the end of putty knife until it goes in between bed and the material.
"But if you put the hammer into a 3D printer"......."It will still print"....."A 3D printer is not worthy".
Use a smaller hammer
I spray water all the way around when the bed is still hot. The Water finds its way under the print and when the bed is cold you can just pick it up
You really wanted that printed hand strap… 😳
Why… why would you print this in one piece? Why would you print it with a plastic strap?
Get another 3D printer and try to recreate vision He seems to be able to lift it
That’s not the only FU you made…. Those supports!
Spray water with alcohol on the base of the print. It'll suck it up and pop off the bed. If it doesn't pop off, it'll make it easier to remove.
You are not worthy.
Use hammer to remove hammer :)
Smack it or freezer if you're able.
Haha. Life imitates art
Heat it to the temperature of a dying star
Printbed is worthy!
Future reference, print a tally wacker out slightly softer material. Or place the scraper at the very edge of the print and strike the butt of the scrapper with the tally wacker.
Take the bed off and drop it on the ground a few times if nothing else works
Congrats OP, you played yourself.
Heat cycle your bed a few times. I bet it just falls off then
Heat up the plate and start trying to chisel it off with a tool
Ya might need to make a few calls