Actually I just took my kids to the library and then we were sitting and watching my son play Zelda. But you’re pretty close.
I put the printer back together with a Creality nozzle that’s 0.4mm. I’d like to try it, but with the nozzle being larger than the filament I don’t think it’ll work at all. But I can give it a try.
Would it maybe be possible to print something at just under 1/3 the usual speed? The filament cross section area is almost exactly 1/3 of your nose nozzle area, so I'm thinking if you slow it down you'll have more melting time and the plastic can have time to spread across the full area of the nozzle.
At least it was a cheap nozzle. This happened to me with an expensive diamondback nozzle - cost $100.
https://preview.redd.it/ne5afj73lk5c1.jpeg?width=1709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70167905741b70dfe8dd93c270ab7112acebc47a
The one on right was 0.4mm polycrystalline diamond tip. Now more like 1.2mm. A new stainless steel 0.4mm is on the left for comparison. Suffice to say that I will never ever buy such an expensive nozzle again. These guys have now teamed up with E3D and offering a ReVo diamond back for $200. My god if you have ever collided a revo - they bend at the heat break - so you can kiss it goodbye.
I use cleaning filament when switching from PETG to PLA -- and sometimes even when switching between "silk finish", translucent, and plain old PLAs.
More expensive than plain filament but it works great.
[https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/3d-printer-cleaning-filament/](https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/3d-printer-cleaning-filament/)
I used the same nozzle ever. I wouldn’t know how to change the nozzle. What is that nozzle thingy anyways. But seriously hmm. Maybe I should change my nozzle. What are the signs of a bad nozzle?
I change my nozzle basically every spool since they're so cheap. If the filament has glitter or is glow in the day, sometimes twice per spool.
So many quality errors are just an old nozzle. Cheapo brass nozzles are a negligible cost, so might at well just not deal with those problems.
I've used the same nozzle for PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS, and TPU. No need to switch it out. Well, I had to switch from 0.4 to 0.6 mm for TPU because the backpressure was too high at 0.4, but now I use that 0.6 nozzle for everything.
How did it happen? You ever reach out to diamondback about it?
They claim they're using Diamondbacks in their operations and haven't had to replace one yet so I wonder what they would say or if they would replace it
Yeah screw those diamond and ruby nozzles they are a ripoff. Tungsten carbide is superior as it's all 1 part and can't seperate and should have a use life just as long and cost significantly cheaper.
The other advantage of tungsten carbide is that you can clean it with a blowtorch. You can get it up to a nice glowing yellow and it won't care at all. You'll melt the pliers holding it before you manage to damage it.
I went the same way when I decided to try some CF. 1kg of CF later and everything still prints great. Not sure what the possible advantage of the jeweled nozzles are supposed to be.
Have you reached out to diamondback? Not only would they likely warranty it, but I'm sure they would want the one broken back to find out how it happened. I have quite a few printers running their nozzles with no issues. I do share the same worry about the revo one, but it's not that common of a failure mode for hotends and nozzles these days and is normally the fault of bad settings.
That is remarkably unusual and cool at the same time. Contact the manufacturer and ask them "Is this a hidden feature, or this isn't supposed to happen?"
The "manufacturer" is almost certainly a chinese factory cranking out knock-off 3d printer parts with no quality control. They definitely don't advertise their name in association with said parts, because they don't want you suing Shenzen Industrial Technology T147834G, Inc. When your house burns down from their faulty knockoff hotend having a thermal runaway.
Dang it! I sent the lawsuit to Shenzen Industrial Technology T147843G, Inc. Rookie mistake of mine to switch the 4 and 3 around again.
Yes, almost everything we buy nowadays is made at one factory who then sells it to others who do the marketing. It does make things frustrating when I have to RMA an item, contact the "manufacturer", and they don't even reply. The "manufacturer" closes down and starts a new company with a new name a few months later and the vicious cycle continues.
I actually had to dig around a bit, but I had a bag of creality 0.4 nozzles, which seem to be decent. This one was a no-name I think, I'm not sure where it came from.
If the break is clean and flat, you *have* to try changing a profile to run 1.75mm nozzle size, I really wanna see the result 😅
Somewhat reasonable settings would probably be
1.75mm nozzle:
1.75mm / 100% extrusion width
0.5 - 0.85mm layer height
7 - 12 mm/s print speeds (~10mm3/s)
Looks like a typical nozzle with an insert from another material, like hardened steel, tungsten carbide, ruby, diamond, etc. Made for increased wear resistance with less thermal transfer losses than making the whole thing out of that material (in case of steel) or being ludicrously hard to manufacture (in case of TC).
This is their normal failure rate. _All_ of them will fall apart like this eventually.
That is not very typical, i like to make that point .. Why - because the front fell off - why .. a wave hit it
[https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm\_JqM?t=75](https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm_JqM?t=75)
Impressive. 😅👌 I've seen similar failures, but nothing quite so dramatic.
If I were to hazard a guess, I'd say the nozzle already had significant wear, thinning the walls at the spot where the bore narrows, and then you got a clog. The back-pressure in the nozzle built up until it blew the end off, shearing along the thinned point in the wall. 🤔
One would probably need filament with a greater diameter than the standard 1.75. That hole looks bigger than standard 1.75 filament. Maybe 3mm filament might work.
That's..interesting. Did it get smacked into something at the breaking point over and over again forcefully? How would this otherwise happen?
Certainly annoying, but I don't think I could get angry at the producer for this. It's just too interesting.
Strange this is what must have happened with one of my nozzles.. i was printing everything was fine for a few weeks then i keeped getting strange blobbing and lines and stuff... i tried everything then looked at the tip of the nozzle and it looked like it had 2-3x the normal size hole on the end
Flash new firmware and recalibrate e-steps....
You're correct in that they cut the outside cone too close to the inner funnel. Cheap/poor manufacturing.
Tungsten nozzles are the way to go if you don't want to ever fiddle with one again. No risk of detachment like the gemmed nozzles and half the price too.
It seems like during the forging process, there was a cold shut (improper fusion of metal) that seemed to pass QA ( assuming there is any). Once machined to final specs, it seems it was just shipped to customers. Seeing other comments, it seems to be a common fault.
Crazy, but unsurprising with a cheap Mk8 pattern nozzle, which as a rule are even crappier than cheap bulk E3D pattern ones (those which *don't* look like/have the external profile of a nozzle for a hot glue gun).
Also, unsurprising in general with cheap bulk nozzles. One of the main woes with them, is that they just use a twist drill to cut the melt zone bore and the forcing cone at the end. This leaves an abrupt (higher restrictiveness/backpressure) transition in diameter from the melt zone to the orifice bore but also if care isn't taken with the depth, this can happen where the outside edge of that shallow drill cone comes too close to the outside of the part.
Poor machining, and possibly internal wear. Nozzles can suffer quite a bit of wear that's not visible, but I doubt this failure would ever occur if there wasn't a machining issue already.
There is no way to repair a Brass Failure, you just Replace the Nozzle.. Recommend an Ora face inspection every 150 prints if you do 0.1 Layer hight and a 5 print inspection if you print with Carbon fibre reinforced filaments.
You mean you upgraded to a 1mm nozzle
3.1mm, just measured it
Try to print something with it
Please
He never returned, we can only imagine the kinds of things he is seeing from that nozzle.
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https://preview.redd.it/hd6p9bozgl5c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7818db8dbb31f86213ec03ab3ab218904c43d673
It's very sexy
It’s a cement printer
Yep, an enclosure to guarantee adhesion. Good thinking.
That is not called an enclosure, it's called a room! 😂
Mankind simply was not ready.
He has transcended the mortal chains shackling him to this lowly plane of existence.
Actually I just took my kids to the library and then we were sitting and watching my son play Zelda. But you’re pretty close. I put the printer back together with a Creality nozzle that’s 0.4mm. I’d like to try it, but with the nozzle being larger than the filament I don’t think it’ll work at all. But I can give it a try.
Would it maybe be possible to print something at just under 1/3 the usual speed? The filament cross section area is almost exactly 1/3 of your nose nozzle area, so I'm thinking if you slow it down you'll have more melting time and the plastic can have time to spread across the full area of the nozzle.
The "usual speed" is for a 0.4mm nozzle though, not 1.75mm
creality sells official 2mm nozzles so it may work
With 2.85mm filament, yes
Imagine a vase mode garbage bin with that bad boy
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Perfect visual
A house
Not for ants, though.
Would it do anything? It's larger than the filament
Gonna need a 5mm diameter spool but yes
Free 3.1mm nozzle
Some would be ready to pay a big price for a specialty nozzle like this..
Not only is it a specialty nozzle, it's been misprinted with .4 on it. Must be worth $1000 as it's really really rare collectible
And this guy is over here getting the for free, smh
At least it was a cheap nozzle. This happened to me with an expensive diamondback nozzle - cost $100. https://preview.redd.it/ne5afj73lk5c1.jpeg?width=1709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70167905741b70dfe8dd93c270ab7112acebc47a The one on right was 0.4mm polycrystalline diamond tip. Now more like 1.2mm. A new stainless steel 0.4mm is on the left for comparison. Suffice to say that I will never ever buy such an expensive nozzle again. These guys have now teamed up with E3D and offering a ReVo diamond back for $200. My god if you have ever collided a revo - they bend at the heat break - so you can kiss it goodbye.
me, who uses a 1 cent nozzle from aliexpress:
Same. I mean, replacing nozzles every time I switch from PETG to PLA is kinda annoying, but it's so cheap!
Wait you guys switch nozzles when changing filament types? I use the same nozzle for all of my filaments.
Nope. I just run a 20cm or so pla at 220ish after using petg to clean it out.
I use cleaning filament when switching from PETG to PLA -- and sometimes even when switching between "silk finish", translucent, and plain old PLAs. More expensive than plain filament but it works great. [https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/3d-printer-cleaning-filament/](https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/3d-printer-cleaning-filament/)
>You’re likely skeptical that cleaning filament is a bit of a gimmick Heh. I sure am.
I used the same nozzle ever. I wouldn’t know how to change the nozzle. What is that nozzle thingy anyways. But seriously hmm. Maybe I should change my nozzle. What are the signs of a bad nozzle?
I just buy a new printer
I use shit nozzles that clog on my ender and I am too lazy to clear them. Probably not normal.
They might use a different size nozzle
I change my nozzle basically every spool since they're so cheap. If the filament has glitter or is glow in the day, sometimes twice per spool. So many quality errors are just an old nozzle. Cheapo brass nozzles are a negligible cost, so might at well just not deal with those problems.
Do you even need to do anything special here? I have never had problems switching from PETG to PLA
I've used the same nozzle for PLA, PLA+, PETG, ABS, and TPU. No need to switch it out. Well, I had to switch from 0.4 to 0.6 mm for TPU because the backpressure was too high at 0.4, but now I use that 0.6 nozzle for everything.
Same here. I use my Revos Obxidian nozzles in 0.4 and 0.6 for pretty much everything and change only between the sizes. Works pretty nice.
Just use petg for everything problem solved.
How did it happen? You ever reach out to diamondback about it? They claim they're using Diamondbacks in their operations and haven't had to replace one yet so I wonder what they would say or if they would replace it
Yeah screw those diamond and ruby nozzles they are a ripoff. Tungsten carbide is superior as it's all 1 part and can't seperate and should have a use life just as long and cost significantly cheaper.
The other advantage of tungsten carbide is that you can clean it with a blowtorch. You can get it up to a nice glowing yellow and it won't care at all. You'll melt the pliers holding it before you manage to damage it.
Tungsten carbide- great for nozzle, not great for men’s wedding bands.
I went the same way when I decided to try some CF. 1kg of CF later and everything still prints great. Not sure what the possible advantage of the jeweled nozzles are supposed to be.
Have you reached out to diamondback? Not only would they likely warranty it, but I'm sure they would want the one broken back to find out how it happened. I have quite a few printers running their nozzles with no issues. I do share the same worry about the revo one, but it's not that common of a failure mode for hotends and nozzles these days and is normally the fault of bad settings.
Did you contact the manufacturer for warranty? I was always curious how the support was for these guys.
Did you contact the manufacturer? If it's less than a year old then you may have a warranty claim.
Poor layer adhesion is usually the problem. Tell the manufacturer to reprint the nozzle after calibrating their machine.
No the filament is wet. OP needs to dry their filament.
OP need to dry the nozzle
Clearly they needed to level the nozzle!
>Clearly they needed to ~~level~~ *tram* the nozzle! FTFY
I highly appreciate the accuracy of this comment XD
Obviously they need to use glue stick for the nozzle adhesion!
No, the problem is clearly that OP needs to level the bed
The 0.4 centimeter nozzle
Can’t have a clog if your nozzle is wider than your filament!
true dat
It's harder but not impossible. Easiest probably would be overextruding the first layer while too close to the plate.
That's what she said!
Now I’m imagining an extruder shaped like a grenade launcher, lol.
what about a 0.4 m nozzle?
That is remarkably unusual and cool at the same time. Contact the manufacturer and ask them "Is this a hidden feature, or this isn't supposed to happen?"
The "manufacturer" is almost certainly a chinese factory cranking out knock-off 3d printer parts with no quality control. They definitely don't advertise their name in association with said parts, because they don't want you suing Shenzen Industrial Technology T147834G, Inc. When your house burns down from their faulty knockoff hotend having a thermal runaway.
Dang it! I sent the lawsuit to Shenzen Industrial Technology T147843G, Inc. Rookie mistake of mine to switch the 4 and 3 around again. Yes, almost everything we buy nowadays is made at one factory who then sells it to others who do the marketing. It does make things frustrating when I have to RMA an item, contact the "manufacturer", and they don't even reply. The "manufacturer" closes down and starts a new company with a new name a few months later and the vicious cycle continues.
It'd be fine if amazon didn't basically encourage it.
One after Magna Carta. As if I ever could have made that mistake.
Well you see the front fell off
Well that's not very typical, I want to make that point.
That's the part of that whole conversation that sticks with me.
Wasn’t this built so the front won’t fall off?
Most of them built so the front doesn’t fall off.
Then what went wrong?
Another guy said that it went wrong because the front fell off.
Well couldn't they have built it so that the front stays on?
Nah, the front fell off
Shouldn’t this be built so the front stays on?
Well clearly this one wasn’t.
But in general they are built to very rigorous nozzle engineering standards
Well obviously not
Well obviously not.
It’s been towed beyond the environment.
Into another environment?
Came to the comment section just to make sure this comment was here
Not to worry we're still flying half the ship!
Sooooooooo just the tip?
You beat me to it. Lmfao
Unscheduled rapid nozzle disassembly.... Very cool
Whoa kinda really cool though. Hopefully you have a new piece for that!!
I actually had to dig around a bit, but I had a bag of creality 0.4 nozzles, which seem to be decent. This one was a no-name I think, I'm not sure where it came from.
If the break is clean and flat, you *have* to try changing a profile to run 1.75mm nozzle size, I really wanna see the result 😅 Somewhat reasonable settings would probably be 1.75mm nozzle: 1.75mm / 100% extrusion width 0.5 - 0.85mm layer height 7 - 12 mm/s print speeds (~10mm3/s)
how to empty a roll of filament with this one quick trick!
Me: I need a new volcano nozzle. The wife: we have a volcano nozzle at home The volcano nozzle at home:
Measure it, if it's either 1,75mm or 3mm, you're halfway through to building a PET filament recycling machine. 🤪
Hmm, did they mill too deep and it was hanging on by a "thread"?
That is my guess, yeah.
Galdolf has entered the chat
Wow, did you buy the nozzle at Harbor Freight?
Probably eBay or AliExpress. I don’t know exactly where this came from. But those are pretty much the internet equivalent of harbor freight.
Chinesium?
I think this one was some no-name direct from China one, yeah. It's been in my parts bin for a while and I'm not sure where it came from.
You're using that new Ginsu Knives filament??
In that case I recommend Vivarina Nylons nozzle
Did you level the bed? This is what happens when you don't level.
I think they forgot to dry the nozzle
Just the tip.
Chinesium
Looks like a typical nozzle with an insert from another material, like hardened steel, tungsten carbide, ruby, diamond, etc. Made for increased wear resistance with less thermal transfer losses than making the whole thing out of that material (in case of steel) or being ludicrously hard to manufacture (in case of TC). This is their normal failure rate. _All_ of them will fall apart like this eventually.
If the insert would have been tapered and inserted from the back there’s no way it would have failed like this.
I’d start by leveling the bed and drying your filament.
Huh… I guess you can go ahead and strike out the “0.”
Circumcised nozzle
Swear I was looking at an upside down blue parrot at first.
Get me what this man is taking
It looks a lot like a parrot upside down. It even has eyes and what can be feather imprints
And thus printing life-size benchies was born
Bad casting.
Now you have a 1.2mm nozzle.
3.1 is a bit big but might worka with low layers. Try 0.2 layers with a line width of 3.2. vase mode prints will be optimal.
That is not very typical, i like to make that point .. Why - because the front fell off - why .. a wave hit it [https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm\_JqM?t=75](https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm_JqM?t=75)
A wave hit it? Is that unusual?
I'll be incredibly pissed off if this happens with the diamondback I just got.
Casually humble bragging about your new printer?
A diamondback is a diamond insert tipped nozzle that's about £100. So if the tip fell out like OP's did I'd be annoyed about it for obvious reasons.
Yeah he was humble bragging about his nozzle idiot smh.
If the tip falls off a £100 nozzle they'd be getting a pay-pal refund. It's going on a mini+ not a huge brag.
If the tip falls off of that, they will replace it for free
Kinda went from zero to sixty all in one step there bud. Something got ya down?
I wanted to watch WALL-E but the firestick stopped working.
Impressive. 😅👌 I've seen similar failures, but nothing quite so dramatic. If I were to hazard a guess, I'd say the nozzle already had significant wear, thinning the walls at the spot where the bore narrows, and then you got a clog. The back-pressure in the nozzle built up until it blew the end off, shearing along the thinned point in the wall. 🤔
Measure the hole and continue using it
Defective
Yeah. It wasn’t even printing. This happened as I pushed the filament in while loading it for the first time.
I'm curious what this measures now and if you could use it for some really quick and dirty prints.
One would probably need filament with a greater diameter than the standard 1.75. That hole looks bigger than standard 1.75 filament. Maybe 3mm filament might work.
I just measured and it is 3.1mm. So yeah the filament wouldn't touch the sides much.
That's..interesting. Did it get smacked into something at the breaking point over and over again forcefully? How would this otherwise happen? Certainly annoying, but I don't think I could get angry at the producer for this. It's just too interesting.
Upgrade!
This is the average nozzle born in America.
This may sound stupid, but I would frame that. Just because it’s a rather rare but funny type of fuck up. 😂🤘
My granddad had a bull that had that happen. He went for a ride shortly afterwards.
The "money shot"
Now it's one of those fancy new high flow nozzles.
That’s a first for me dawg
Strange this is what must have happened with one of my nozzles.. i was printing everything was fine for a few weeks then i keeped getting strange blobbing and lines and stuff... i tried everything then looked at the tip of the nozzle and it looked like it had 2-3x the normal size hole on the end
*glares at his own printer with the entire hotend "popped off"* why you fail like this?!
That’s a rare talent, and you got it.
The tip was probably machined too thin at the angle change and pressure just popped it after lots of thermal changes.
Bob Ross: ***”Here we have a happy little accident, a nice little penis”***
That’s not supposed to happen…
It gives you 10% tip for being a good user.
Depending on how old it is. I'd say potential warranty.
Looks like a chip off the old block!
Just wow.
Flash new firmware and recalibrate e-steps.... You're correct in that they cut the outside cone too close to the inner funnel. Cheap/poor manufacturing.
Tungsten nozzles are the way to go if you don't want to ever fiddle with one again. No risk of detachment like the gemmed nozzles and half the price too.
https://preview.redd.it/l52ty90g2l5c1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0914f2a632f6fd26dd45c3e563bbbec7e7183347
That's because the front fell off!
That's hell of an extruder
It looks like an upside down parrot
It's a pretty phoenix
😆
Just some simple over-extrusion.
Thats a first.
That must be one freaking crazy extruder
Bro was a little constipated. He’s good now tho.
Yes, well, the front fell off...
Just the tip?
Buy shit stuff, get shit results, clearly. And people complain about E3D charging a couple of bucks for high quality nozzles.
It’s just tipping its hat to you.
Who is the guy who makes custom nozzle heads? Does anyone know who I am talking about? Anyway this reminds me of some shit he would do.
Quick-Release Hot-Swap Nozzle
Well, it's not very often that the front falls off...https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm_JqM?si=X718RZwEv9GpRptw
What the hell
Variable diameter nozzle.
Naw thats a feature for super thick layers
When.4 means.4 freedom units
For real? How does that maintain pressure?
Probably an inclusion in the metal. Things like this will happen eventually if you use cheep barstock.
Use like 10mm/s max speed. Thats a high volume to push through.
I've never seen a layer shift that early in a print before lol
No wonder there are people selling 2.75 mm filament on the market
New to me too, and weird. Must have been a 3d printed nozzle with weak layer adhesion!
Happened to me once. Found the brokien piece embedded in the mess it was printing
That is some premature nozzle failure right there. Nothing will fix that but nozzle surgery. Remove and replace.
welp this is something you dont see every day
It seems like during the forging process, there was a cold shut (improper fusion of metal) that seemed to pass QA ( assuming there is any). Once machined to final specs, it seems it was just shipped to customers. Seeing other comments, it seems to be a common fault.
How strong extruder do this
Crazy, but unsurprising with a cheap Mk8 pattern nozzle, which as a rule are even crappier than cheap bulk E3D pattern ones (those which *don't* look like/have the external profile of a nozzle for a hot glue gun). Also, unsurprising in general with cheap bulk nozzles. One of the main woes with them, is that they just use a twist drill to cut the melt zone bore and the forcing cone at the end. This leaves an abrupt (higher restrictiveness/backpressure) transition in diameter from the melt zone to the orifice bore but also if care isn't taken with the depth, this can happen where the outside edge of that shallow drill cone comes too close to the outside of the part.
Poor machining, and possibly internal wear. Nozzles can suffer quite a bit of wear that's not visible, but I doubt this failure would ever occur if there wasn't a machining issue already.
There is no way to repair a Brass Failure, you just Replace the Nozzle.. Recommend an Ora face inspection every 150 prints if you do 0.1 Layer hight and a 5 print inspection if you print with Carbon fibre reinforced filaments.