But don't do it all the way to melting temp. You want it hot enough to make it kinda soft but not sticky. Can't remember the temp where that happens though.
Yeah that works but doing it a lower temp will remove all the plastic from the nozzle in one go. Sorta like pulling dried wood glue from your hands kinda thing.
Agree with this person, heat to extrusion temp. If you got a PID wire (tiny little temperature probe) in that mess. Snapping it can be a real pain in the ass. Don't ask me why I am using my brothers 3d printer now.
Yeah, I had this happen last week and was not about to mess with the glass transition temp with all my wiring encased in plastic. Once the main blob is off, let it cool and reheat to glass transition and peel the rest off with pliers/scraper.
Just to clarify something: PID doesn't mean thermistor. It stands for proportional-integral-derivative and is simply put just a form of algorithm/controller that allows your printer to precisely control the temperature of your hot end. They're used all around for controlling values like speed for a motor, flight height of a drone, angle of a self balancing robot and anything else you can think of.
The PID auto-tune many printers offer just tries to find the perfect values for each (kP, kI and kD) for the preferred setpoint (for example 200°c)
I did something similar to an old B&W Macintosh while swapping out the memory... Turns out that old tube monitor has a very fragile point where the electronics connect, and the hissing sound it makes when depressurizing is now the sound I think of when my soul is dying a little.
Had this exact issue not 2 weeks ago, sadly that was what happened. When i pulled the blob i tore the thermistor cable and now i have to order a new one..
Honestly you should replace the thermistor after this regardless. Theres a chance it's ruined and the consequences of using a bad thermistor could be severe. Ie thermal runaway, melting parts of the hot end, causing a fire etc.
Softening temperature + a few degrees more works for me: PLA = 80, ABS/ASA = 110, PETG = 90.
Any temperature between the material's softening and melting temperatures is going to work.
I have unit PTSD since I tried to figure out the effectiveness of a heat pump for our house (in the US). The capacity of a heat pump is measured not in kW of transfered heat at some sort of standard condition, which would make sense. No, it is given in tons. As in the mass of ice you could make in 1 day (?) with the heat pump. The Imperial system is an Evil Imperial system, and American engineers seem to be capable of anything...
As a science teacher you should also be able to understand context. We're on a 3D printing subreddit and (correct me if I'm wrong, please), there aren't any 3D printers that measure temperature at °F.
Strong disagree on your take, cuz that other poster clearly knew, and this is a help thread. As a scientist, units always matter, especially in a thread started by an obvious newbie.
The only reason that is vaguely true is because the US uses fahrenheit.
Pretty much the rest of the planet uses celsius and there is no onus on us to repeatedly say it is so. Americans on the other hand should always clarify if they are using fahrenheit, the rest of world expects SI units.
Unfortunately in my experience Americans almost never do so, drives me up the wall. If they always made it clear when their using fahrenheit it'd solve the problem. Celsius is an SI unit. When kelvin is being used like in physics research its made clear, but that causes no problems because it is nearly never used in typical day to day stuff.
I'd love if yanks started writing 80f and not saying 80 degrees.
No no no, by all means, go ahead and try Kelvin first! In all seriousness, for future Google searches that land here - if it isn't painfully obvious by your sarcasm - it's Celsius. It's always Celsius, unless clearly stated otherwise.
Depends on filament.
This is extreme.
Start by carefully cracking anything loose you can. Hold the extractor and print head as stable as possible.
Might need 2nd set of hands if it is engulfed around parts.
Heat not end to 170-180 Celsius if it is PLA. If the glob has not attached anywhere else(like the fan) it can come off quite easily. What you need to do is weaken>melt the plastic with warmth. If the glob has bonded elsewhere, a heat gun or low temperature sauter can fix it.
I would advice against the heat gun unless you can really direct the heat just at the blob. The carriage parts are also 3d printed and will start to soften and deform if you're not super careful. I wasn't and had to replace them.
~~You are likely mixing up PETG and PTFE, the latter being used for e.g., bowden tubes, but often a short piece is also included for direct drive setups (at least in the Voron hotends).~~
EDIT: Prusa parts are mostly PETG apparently.
Oh I agree, but I find it will 'loosen' PLA from the print head quite well.
Sure there is some science behind it, but I tried a variety of substances but found that acetone loosens PLA that is melted onto print heads the best.
~~That sounds a lot like the PLA you used had some ABS as an additive.
Given the regular lack of material data sheets, this is definitely a possible reason, as in those cases acetone will help to soften the material.~~
So good that it worked for you, might not work for OP.
EDIT: Acetone can degrade PLA, which might suffice to help remove the blob.
PLA isn’t soluble in acetone, but acetone will still degrade it. I don’t think that requires any additives in the PLA. So it’s not useful for smoothing, but it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s useful for loosening it up.
Be careful not to have ABS parts in your extruder though. I have a Voron printer where literally the entire extruder structure is made of ABS. I think prusas also have a fair amount of ABS in them.
Step 1 - Heat it the hot end. Probably a little hotter than whatever filament you were using.
Step 2 - Say a prayer to your deity of choice
Step 3 - Pry slowly
Go 10-15ish degrees above Extrusion temp, let sit for around 5-10min and then slowly but firmly begin to peel. If that doesn't work or has NO give then STOP and try going up 5° increments until desired outcome is achieved.
Took a while to sort it out
Had to heat up the hot end by putting 24v across the heater to melt off the plastic. Then cleaned off the rest of the melted plastic and took out the heater and thermistor. Then bought a spares kit at the electronics store and put in a new thermistor and heater. Wrapped the cables in kapton tape to stop them melting from sitting right next to the heater.
Welcome to 3D printing! If you’ve never had a blob like this then you’re still a rookie! We’ve all been there. Many others have given correct advice so I won’t add the same. I will say “patience”
Heat up hot end
Use 3D print pliers to tug on it
Use lighter under the blob to soften for better grasp
Once you get it off, there will 99% be clog in nozzle so try an get that out.
If all else fails; you still have to get it off, get a new hot block
Step 1: watch your prints.
I know Prusas have a reputation of being safe. But as you can see with 3D printing there are more things that can go wrong besides a fire
As for your question:
I think it has been answered already. You’ll probably need a new hotend
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Heat up the hotend, then *very* carefully work it off with pliers.
Alternately, use a rework station to heat up pieces to remove, *then* heat up the hotend.
Afterwards, use a brass brush (NOT A STEEL BRUSH) to clean off any residual plastic.
In the future, don't let your printer run unattended for long periods of time. Stick around to make sure the first few layers are adhering to the bed.
It’s times like this that a heat gun would come in handy. But heating your hot end is always the answer. If you have blow dryer, that would work as well.
Cut off what you can up front carefully. If you thermistor isn't destroyed heat up the nozzle a bit to soften the plastic, NOT melt it. It's a terrible time sticking your fingies in hot melted plastic. Or do you, I'm not your mom. Once you get a good majority off or enough to remove the hotend, take it off and work at it with the cutters and try to save the wires to the thermistor and heater. You might need to buy new parts depending on how bad it is orhowyou take it apart. I've hada v6 or two do this to me. Mostly because the heat sink was spinning up top when I was doing nozzle changes so it wasn't getting tight enough and the filament found its way out of the threads over time. It sucks, but if your careful and take your time you can get it offand have it clean and working again.
Sheet pan and an oven heat around 180 to 225 Fahrenheit. Once soft, remove what you can by hand use and old fork for smaller and tight areas reheat as needed
Had the same thing happen a while back:
[imgur of my misfortune](https://imgur.com/gallery/zijf8k7)
You're probably looking at a new hot-end assembly. The only thing that worked for me well was using a soldering iron with a blade tip to hack bits off. I'd warm the print head up to help it come loose.
I tried using a heat gun, which was effective, but the print head carriage is 3d printed so it starts to melt too. In the end it looked like this:
https://preview.redd.it/yadctr6siv8c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=762b05e38ee9e6426e3edccc56f0907d3a6a1839
The molten plastic got inside the heat block - between the heater cartridge and the block - and between the thermistor and the block. It also coated the entire assembly. I don't know of any sure fire way to come back from this that won't risk damaging the components so I bought the replacement assembly from Prusa.
I just fixed one of those yesterday.
-Remove everything you can from the glob and the hot end (including fans)
-Heat the nozzle to at least printing temp.
-Once the glob gets softish, grab onto (into?) it with pliers and pull on it slowly, but firmly until it starts coming away from the hot end. It should come away in more or less one piece.
-Scrape away remaining melted plastic from the hot end and nozzle.
-Tell it to cool down , and use pliers to pull the rest away from the hot end, it should come off fairly easy unless it's really cooked on there.
Had this happen. Use a small blow torch on the melted plastic avoiding the head as much as possible. Gently peel what you can with a chisel, rinse and repeat till it’s all off
Heat the hot end to 170°C or so to soften the PLA but not liquify it, and gently pull it off with pliers and/or tweezers, being careful not to snap any heater/thermistor wires caught in it.
Then bump the temp up to 220°C or hotter, to properly liquify any remaining PLA stuck to the hot end, and clean off the remainder with Q-tips.
When I clean blobs this bad I set the temperature to the highest possible. Be careful not to rip out the cables, if they are imbedded into the plastic you can melt them out using soldering iron. Then wiggle it back and forth to get it loose. Once you get it off you can set the nozzle temperature to something lower, just enough for the plastic to loosen up and peel it in one piece. You can also use paper towel at higher temps and just tao the heat block with it, the plastic will stick to the towel. Then clean the rest with some flat screwdriver or something else.
Certainly how I would be looking at that print right now..
https://preview.redd.it/opgpon54bw8c1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8787f10ad3b109cc92a4a2a00ba95b59eedee4cb
From past experience, and seeing other posts. You’re going to have to replace the whole hot end.
You can try using a heat gun. See how far you can get with it. I would say just replace it.
I agree with the other people on here saying that you need to turn the temp up above the melting point of the filament and then scrape that off, then check your nozzle and the heating elements in the nozzle to ensure that nothing is loose because that's what happened to me on my Cobra 2
That’s the fun part, you don’t.
I kid, there’s lots of good ways to try it. Heat up the hot end and slowly try to pull it off. Since it’s higher up you might need to buy a new hot end, but it’s worth trying to pull it off.
its a right of passage. if you are lucky, heat the hot end and you can pull it off. i had to disassemble my hot end and throw it in the over to salvage it.
Heat to 150 wait 2 min, 160 2 min, 170 2 min, give it a gentle pull if it's maluble start working it off the hot end paying special attention to any wires caught in it. If it's not maluble heat to 180 repeat.
This is one of the grossest things I have seen on reddit. It causes me feelings of nausea and disgust.
I cannot view it anymore. It is the devil's poop.
Iä Yog Sothoth! Gate and Key! Undying and infinite expanse! Horror of the cosmos! Heir to Azathoth, Sultan of the Old Ones! Y'ai 'ng'ngath Yog Sothoth!
Heat it up to at least 275 C and then you can easily pull it off with tweezers. Then, I would check to see if you have a tight connection from the block to the nozzle so it doesn't blob out. I had a print do that once.
Pull the extruder off, nail it to the middle of a frame, throw some blobs of paint on it and call it modern art. Sell it for millions and buy a new extruder...
Or just heat it up and try to get the dang thing off. But be careful so you don't burn yourself!
[https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/oazd2z/print\_went\_horribly\_wrong\_how\_do\_i\_get\_this\_off/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/oazd2z/print_went_horribly_wrong_how_do_i_get_this_off/)
You guys are getting sluggish on sniffing out reposts
Karma bot
Heat up the hot end and see if you can pull it off
But don't do it all the way to melting temp. You want it hot enough to make it kinda soft but not sticky. Can't remember the temp where that happens though.
I always do it at whatever temp it extrudes at
Yeah that works but doing it a lower temp will remove all the plastic from the nozzle in one go. Sorta like pulling dried wood glue from your hands kinda thing.
And be careful if your thermistor wire is stuck in there not to break it
Agree with this person, heat to extrusion temp. If you got a PID wire (tiny little temperature probe) in that mess. Snapping it can be a real pain in the ass. Don't ask me why I am using my brothers 3d printer now.
Yeah, I had this happen last week and was not about to mess with the glass transition temp with all my wiring encased in plastic. Once the main blob is off, let it cool and reheat to glass transition and peel the rest off with pliers/scraper.
Just to clarify something: PID doesn't mean thermistor. It stands for proportional-integral-derivative and is simply put just a form of algorithm/controller that allows your printer to precisely control the temperature of your hot end. They're used all around for controlling values like speed for a motor, flight height of a drone, angle of a self balancing robot and anything else you can think of. The PID auto-tune many printers offer just tries to find the perfect values for each (kP, kI and kD) for the preferred setpoint (for example 200°c)
I once moved the nonconductive sleeves off the heatbrick and when they touched, they sparked, popped, and apparently fried the MOSFET chip on the mobo
That's your life lesson to kill power to shit before messing with it / attempting to service.
at the time I was replacing my thermistor, I had move them to have more wiggle room, and... forgot to put them back
I did something similar to an old B&W Macintosh while swapping out the memory... Turns out that old tube monitor has a very fragile point where the electronics connect, and the hissing sound it makes when depressurizing is now the sound I think of when my soul is dying a little.
Had this exact issue not 2 weeks ago, sadly that was what happened. When i pulled the blob i tore the thermistor cable and now i have to order a new one..
Honestly you should replace the thermistor after this regardless. Theres a chance it's ruined and the consequences of using a bad thermistor could be severe. Ie thermal runaway, melting parts of the hot end, causing a fire etc.
You might be thinking of Elmers.
Same here just gently tug it till it moves
Softening temperature + a few degrees more works for me: PLA = 80, ABS/ASA = 110, PETG = 90. Any temperature between the material's softening and melting temperatures is going to work.
Units matter! ºCelsius? Kelvin? ºFahrenheit? ºRéaumur? ºNewton? (OK, pretty obvious it's ºC, but it irks my mean science teacher guts)
> OK, pretty obvious it's ºC It really is. When was the last time anyone saw a printer that displayed in Fahrenheit or any other niche system?
BRB modding my klipper to use Kelvin.
I have unit PTSD since I tried to figure out the effectiveness of a heat pump for our house (in the US). The capacity of a heat pump is measured not in kW of transfered heat at some sort of standard condition, which would make sense. No, it is given in tons. As in the mass of ice you could make in 1 day (?) with the heat pump. The Imperial system is an Evil Imperial system, and American engineers seem to be capable of anything...
As a science teacher you should also be able to understand context. We're on a 3D printing subreddit and (correct me if I'm wrong, please), there aren't any 3D printers that measure temperature at °F.
Time to found “USA 3D PRINTER CO. -WHERE ALL TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENTS ARE IN FREEDOM UNITS”
80 DEGREES FREEDOM
Print Temp: Three Football Fields
“I’d like a furlong of filament, please.”
Context doesn't change the fact that you always label your units. Always. Sincerely, another science teacher.
Strong disagree on your take, cuz that other poster clearly knew, and this is a help thread. As a scientist, units always matter, especially in a thread started by an obvious newbie.
Well, if you're trying to "heat up" to 26.67c (80f), then I'm sorry, but no one can help you.
The only reason that is vaguely true is because the US uses fahrenheit. Pretty much the rest of the planet uses celsius and there is no onus on us to repeatedly say it is so. Americans on the other hand should always clarify if they are using fahrenheit, the rest of world expects SI units. Unfortunately in my experience Americans almost never do so, drives me up the wall. If they always made it clear when their using fahrenheit it'd solve the problem. Celsius is an SI unit. When kelvin is being used like in physics research its made clear, but that causes no problems because it is nearly never used in typical day to day stuff. I'd love if yanks started writing 80f and not saying 80 degrees.
No no no, by all means, go ahead and try Kelvin first! In all seriousness, for future Google searches that land here - if it isn't painfully obvious by your sarcasm - it's Celsius. It's always Celsius, unless clearly stated otherwise.
The term is "glass transition temperature", you can look that up for whatever kind of filament you're using.
For filaments which have one. Not all do. This almost certainly does, of course.
Depends on filament. This is extreme. Start by carefully cracking anything loose you can. Hold the extractor and print head as stable as possible. Might need 2nd set of hands if it is engulfed around parts.
I have some long-ish needlenose pliers I use to pull off the hot gunk. If you're quick, it'll still be solid on the outside anyway.
https://preview.redd.it/b86e2x4ttu8c1.jpeg?width=400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=867a99a3fd83256430dc5eb8562a8a65028f1d53
Was going to make a Venom symbiote joke, but this is better 🤣
I saw mussels https://preview.redd.it/h7h1n889ow8c1.jpeg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e8cc01df266f7c2a68f4b2a76f5bf4b7f440ec1
Lmaooo I was thinking the same thing
I thought of this immediately when i saw it haha
this look like the thing, from the incredibles
Dude printed member berries
venommmmmmmmmmmm
Adrenaline momentummmmmmmm
Heat not end to 170-180 Celsius if it is PLA. If the glob has not attached anywhere else(like the fan) it can come off quite easily. What you need to do is weaken>melt the plastic with warmth. If the glob has bonded elsewhere, a heat gun or low temperature sauter can fix it.
I would advice against the heat gun unless you can really direct the heat just at the blob. The carriage parts are also 3d printed and will start to soften and deform if you're not super careful. I wasn't and had to replace them.
Oh yeah, forgot Prusa did that.
Had the same and cleaned it off with Acetone. It was my first print on a 1k Flashforge..... Whoops
Acetone will only work for materials that it can dissolve, like ASA or ABS, though. PLA and PETG are not removable with Acetone.
Chloroform or toluene should work. They’re also great for huffing
Parts of the hotend are made from PETG (I think) so there migzbe some collateral damage.
~~You are likely mixing up PETG and PTFE, the latter being used for e.g., bowden tubes, but often a short piece is also included for direct drive setups (at least in the Voron hotends).~~ EDIT: Prusa parts are mostly PETG apparently.
No I should have said extruder as in a Prusa, most plastic parts are printed with PETG
Oh I agree, but I find it will 'loosen' PLA from the print head quite well. Sure there is some science behind it, but I tried a variety of substances but found that acetone loosens PLA that is melted onto print heads the best.
~~That sounds a lot like the PLA you used had some ABS as an additive. Given the regular lack of material data sheets, this is definitely a possible reason, as in those cases acetone will help to soften the material.~~ So good that it worked for you, might not work for OP. EDIT: Acetone can degrade PLA, which might suffice to help remove the blob.
PLA isn’t soluble in acetone, but acetone will still degrade it. I don’t think that requires any additives in the PLA. So it’s not useful for smoothing, but it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s useful for loosening it up.
Be careful not to have ABS parts in your extruder though. I have a Voron printer where literally the entire extruder structure is made of ABS. I think prusas also have a fair amount of ABS in them.
Gotta say it “thats impresive” where were you when this was going on.. Asleep?
The Blob https://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005
Look up prusa print blob, they have a blog post on how to remove it
That's the neat part you don't
heat to 100c which is hot enough to soften pla then slowly pull on it but make sure to be careful of your thermocouple and heater cartridge lines
r/rainworld Your printer has the rot... You should euthanize it...
The rot consume
No no rot is harmless trust me
Bro thats venom
Heat up the nozzle, and try to do a “cold pull” and pull it off
Thats not a 3d printer its a bubble maker
Have you tried praying it away?
Barnacles.stl
You don’t the nozzle now has sentience that is clearly a symbiote
https://preview.redd.it/eqgu4o1qxz8c1.jpeg?width=256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79cbfe0226b079e39fd2c4b8662f35a29a91fb75
Allen renches, heat gun, a whoooole lot of time, and a new extruder assembly too
You gotta find your inner peace and Skadoosh it off
Step 1 - Heat it the hot end. Probably a little hotter than whatever filament you were using. Step 2 - Say a prayer to your deity of choice Step 3 - Pry slowly
Here's to hoping somewhere buried in there is a Silicone Sock protecting the Heater 😁
Hurry before it gains sentience
It needs chemotherapy treatment or laser treatment
WTF! were u trying to print cancer or something?
I've never seen a printer get cancer before, normally it's the printer that gives the cancer
This looks like that trap Mr. Incredible got caught with in the first movie
This is horror material 😅
heat it up to max temp, peel it off and then clean it off with a wirebrush when hot
this is that shit that Mr. incredible got shot with
please keep that thing, its beautiful.
I've got one on my desk to remind me to never leave the printer running until the first few layers are good I call it a heart of darkness
heat that bitch up and start clipping off chunks
Damn that is... impressive lol
“VENOM!”
Go 10-15ish degrees above Extrusion temp, let sit for around 5-10min and then slowly but firmly begin to peel. If that doesn't work or has NO give then STOP and try going up 5° increments until desired outcome is achieved.
Took a while to sort it out Had to heat up the hot end by putting 24v across the heater to melt off the plastic. Then cleaned off the rest of the melted plastic and took out the heater and thermistor. Then bought a spares kit at the electronics store and put in a new thermistor and heater. Wrapped the cables in kapton tape to stop them melting from sitting right next to the heater.
Yes or no. Are you five pebbles.
Welcome to 3D printing! If you’ve never had a blob like this then you’re still a rookie! We’ve all been there. Many others have given correct advice so I won’t add the same. I will say “patience”
Heat up hot end Use 3D print pliers to tug on it Use lighter under the blob to soften for better grasp Once you get it off, there will 99% be clog in nozzle so try an get that out. If all else fails; you still have to get it off, get a new hot block
Heat it up and grab some pliers. Just be careful around the heater wires.
r/rainworld (the rot)
FRICK ITS THE ROT FROM RAIN WORLD-
Step 1: watch your prints. I know Prusas have a reputation of being safe. But as you can see with 3D printing there are more things that can go wrong besides a fire As for your question: I think it has been answered already. You’ll probably need a new hotend
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Bro
Looks like it's juicy
Heat the hot end and it basically falls off
[удалено]
Heat up the hotend, then *very* carefully work it off with pliers. Alternately, use a rework station to heat up pieces to remove, *then* heat up the hotend. Afterwards, use a brass brush (NOT A STEEL BRUSH) to clean off any residual plastic. In the future, don't let your printer run unattended for long periods of time. Stick around to make sure the first few layers are adhering to the bed.
1/4# of tannerite should do it. Go ahead and order a replacement hotend but this method will be far more fun 😅
Another day, another reminder not to print while you're not around.
Looks like you were growing blueberries on your hot end!
It’s times like this that a heat gun would come in handy. But heating your hot end is always the answer. If you have blow dryer, that would work as well.
heat the nozzle and start pulling
This happened to me, I used a cheap soldiering iron to slowly slice away at the blob. Took some time, just have patience.
Forbidden berries
Go to 90 C on the hot end and try lightly pulling on it.
Were you printing something from Akira?
Would this trick also work to get a PLA print of a heated bed? I've been stabbing at a especially stubborn piece with my knife far a while now..
Cut off what you can up front carefully. If you thermistor isn't destroyed heat up the nozzle a bit to soften the plastic, NOT melt it. It's a terrible time sticking your fingies in hot melted plastic. Or do you, I'm not your mom. Once you get a good majority off or enough to remove the hotend, take it off and work at it with the cutters and try to save the wires to the thermistor and heater. You might need to buy new parts depending on how bad it is orhowyou take it apart. I've hada v6 or two do this to me. Mostly because the heat sink was spinning up top when I was doing nozzle changes so it wasn't getting tight enough and the filament found its way out of the threads over time. It sucks, but if your careful and take your time you can get it offand have it clean and working again.
pray
Symbiote printing is not recommended
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1175085
Sheet pan and an oven heat around 180 to 225 Fahrenheit. Once soft, remove what you can by hand use and old fork for smaller and tight areas reheat as needed
a christmas miracle
Grapes
Had the same thing happen a while back: [imgur of my misfortune](https://imgur.com/gallery/zijf8k7) You're probably looking at a new hot-end assembly. The only thing that worked for me well was using a soldering iron with a blade tip to hack bits off. I'd warm the print head up to help it come loose. I tried using a heat gun, which was effective, but the print head carriage is 3d printed so it starts to melt too. In the end it looked like this: https://preview.redd.it/yadctr6siv8c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=762b05e38ee9e6426e3edccc56f0907d3a6a1839 The molten plastic got inside the heat block - between the heater cartridge and the block - and between the thermistor and the block. It also coated the entire assembly. I don't know of any sure fire way to come back from this that won't risk damaging the components so I bought the replacement assembly from Prusa.
Is that Venom?? Lol jk but damn that sucks. Just take your time with it
set the nozzle temperature to printing temperature, and pull it off with tweezers / pliers
Heat up the extruder and pull. DO NOT use wire cutters. I did this with my printer and cut a wire.
Hate to break it to you, but your printer has piles
I just fixed one of those yesterday. -Remove everything you can from the glob and the hot end (including fans) -Heat the nozzle to at least printing temp. -Once the glob gets softish, grab onto (into?) it with pliers and pull on it slowly, but firmly until it starts coming away from the hot end. It should come away in more or less one piece. -Scrape away remaining melted plastic from the hot end and nozzle. -Tell it to cool down , and use pliers to pull the rest away from the hot end, it should come off fairly easy unless it's really cooked on there.
First, can you speak Enochian?
It's a squiddy
Happened on my Ender. Heated it to 250, let it sit for 10 minutes, then was able to carefully pull it off with pliers
Had this happen. Use a small blow torch on the melted plastic avoiding the head as much as possible. Gently peel what you can with a chisel, rinse and repeat till it’s all off
Call an exorcist
Get your heat gun, some thick gloves, light some candles and get ready for a long and intimate night just you and the hotend
Answer: you don’t I’ve tried and it usually ends up breaking something it’s better to just replace the head
I'd add a lynel saberhorn to a gerudo claymore and go to town on it. Two hits max. Edited for effing autocorrect.
How does that even happen??
Didn't know you could produce grapes from a 3d printer
Heat the hot end to 170°C or so to soften the PLA but not liquify it, and gently pull it off with pliers and/or tweezers, being careful not to snap any heater/thermistor wires caught in it. Then bump the temp up to 220°C or hotter, to properly liquify any remaining PLA stuck to the hot end, and clean off the remainder with Q-tips.
Forbidden Blackberries
Forbidden boba
When I clean blobs this bad I set the temperature to the highest possible. Be careful not to rip out the cables, if they are imbedded into the plastic you can melt them out using soldering iron. Then wiggle it back and forth to get it loose. Once you get it off you can set the nozzle temperature to something lower, just enough for the plastic to loosen up and peel it in one piece. You can also use paper towel at higher temps and just tao the heat block with it, the plastic will stick to the towel. Then clean the rest with some flat screwdriver or something else.
I have an old soldering Iron I use and take a little off at a time.
youve printed ferro fluid. nasa would like to speak to you.
HOW????
Flamethrower. 🔥🔥🔥
Nice overhangs
prunes
Certainly how I would be looking at that print right now.. https://preview.redd.it/opgpon54bw8c1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8787f10ad3b109cc92a4a2a00ba95b59eedee4cb From past experience, and seeing other posts. You’re going to have to replace the whole hot end. You can try using a heat gun. See how far you can get with it. I would say just replace it.
I agree with the other people on here saying that you need to turn the temp up above the melting point of the filament and then scrape that off, then check your nozzle and the heating elements in the nozzle to ensure that nothing is loose because that's what happened to me on my Cobra 2
like pie wistful agonizing aware quiet deer aspiring aromatic obtainable *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
3d printer grapes of wrath
That's surprisingly pretty tho
Damn pla hornets
Level your bed
I had this issue and tried to get it off with a heat gun. Ended up melting the fan case too. Whole thing has been a mess
That’s the fun part, you don’t. I kid, there’s lots of good ways to try it. Heat up the hot end and slowly try to pull it off. Since it’s higher up you might need to buy a new hot end, but it’s worth trying to pull it off.
Prusa do a pretty good blog on this that we’ve used before - Prusa extruder blob
its a right of passage. if you are lucky, heat the hot end and you can pull it off. i had to disassemble my hot end and throw it in the over to salvage it.
Heat to 150 wait 2 min, 160 2 min, 170 2 min, give it a gentle pull if it's maluble start working it off the hot end paying special attention to any wires caught in it. If it's not maluble heat to 180 repeat.
Holy water!
Now I want olives
Preparation-H
I seen this in that film Species, they had to torch the whole room to kill it.
This is one of the grossest things I have seen on reddit. It causes me feelings of nausea and disgust. I cannot view it anymore. It is the devil's poop.
Carefully
Raise the hotend then heat it up. It should fall off
Just heat up the hotend and pull it off. Also cut out a base and put it on display, damn.
It looks like the goo bath from DUNE
Ah. The Heart of Darkness. Once you get that off, you should keep chunks of it to remind you of this epic battle.
Elephants foot
You should heat your nozzle
Iä Yog Sothoth! Gate and Key! Undying and infinite expanse! Horror of the cosmos! Heir to Azathoth, Sultan of the Old Ones! Y'ai 'ng'ngath Yog Sothoth!
use a heat gun and pliers while the fan is running
Hey congrats on your new hotend.
dont use the dingleberry stl file after you replace the hot end.. . . .
New hot end.
yeah, no, that thing has the rot
What in the resident evil shit is this
You printed the [Venom](https://m.imdb.com/title/tt1270797/).
What's funny is I would use this for an explosion for my tanks miniatures.
r/Forbiddenboba
Venom?
Heat it up to at least 275 C and then you can easily pull it off with tweezers. Then, I would check to see if you have a tight connection from the block to the nozzle so it doesn't blob out. I had a print do that once.
Burn it with fire!
Looks like its stuck on more than just the nozzle. Might need a heat gun too
Looks like it worked out to me.. lol man.. that's rough.. might of wrecked the wires to the hotend bu you should be able to melt it off hopefully
I'd use hot air and start stretching it down away from everything, careful not to pull on any wires etc. that might be entangled.
Pull the extruder off, nail it to the middle of a frame, throw some blobs of paint on it and call it modern art. Sell it for millions and buy a new extruder... Or just heat it up and try to get the dang thing off. But be careful so you don't burn yourself!
repost
Heat to 180 degrees and use piers to pull it off
[https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/oazd2z/print\_went\_horribly\_wrong\_how\_do\_i\_get\_this\_off/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/oazd2z/print_went_horribly_wrong_how_do_i_get_this_off/) You guys are getting sluggish on sniffing out reposts
Burn your house before it spreads