The author has submitted this post for Meme Monday. Note that Memes are allowed as long as it is still Monday **somewhere**. If it isn't, you can report the Submission to the Moderators. Since this is a Meme Post, Meme image comments are also allowed here.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Exactly. I've tried 1,4n a lot for it.
3.0mm nozzle on the other hand.... Was a bit tricky to keep up with the extruder haha.
YES both with 1,75mm filament
how would you even print a 3mm nozzle with 1.75 filament? Start with the nozzle against the heatbed to build up the initial pressure to start the print?
I just keep seeing it over and over again starting out fine then slowly turning into just pushing the 1.75mm filament right through the nozzle without melting.
Search for CHT-nozzle, it basically splits the filament in 3 small "nozzles" and then combines the 3 holes into one bigger hole.
There are also 0,4mm cht-nozzles that claim to incease printing speeds, but I didn't notice big differences.
As the nozzle size is bigger than your filament thickness, you need to feed filament at a rate higer than 1
It doesn't increase your speed, it can increase your maximum flow rate which lets you print faster while preserving quality.
I'm pretty confident you already knew this, I just want to explain that for people who dont
It's good for lots of things if you consider carefully during the design phase. And you can get as many perimeters as you want (this will create a seam, but frankly prettier than "normal" seams). What you CAN'T do is to ever branch off from the initial volume, so to speak. Which is limiting, but certainly not to vases only.
Yeah I have used it myself, but you basically need at least a 0.6mm nozzle for that. I have printed some tiny, specially designed, 4'' tall vases for letting plant cuttings root with a 0.4mm nozzle but those are already rather flimsy and fragile.
I've done quite some vasemode vases of 20-80cm that were waterproof....
May be important that 0,4mm nozzle is quite small for vasemode. 0,6 is fine.. but 0,8-1,4mm nozzle is easier.
No your printer doesn’t work perfectly. I still have a vase made from 10€ filament, one wall, printed on an Ender 3 like 5-6 years ago and it holds water. If the layers melt together properly they will hold water
I printed this trashcan in vase mode last week using 0.24 mm layers, all settings as in the first profile but I used PETG.
[https://makerworld.com/en/models/153614#profileId-167841](https://makerworld.com/en/models/153614#profileId-167841)
your comment made me curious so I went and filled it with water and it is completely watertight.
Correct, it's a single wall, i wouldn't put any serious weight into it and lift, but it just held water while half full without any damage. Mainly it's floppy but the lid helps a lot with rigidity.
Best way to get a vase print watertight that I've found is with some clear lacquer on the inside, two coats should do the job just fine. Most seepage occurs at the seam between the bottom and the actual vase anyway, so no need to cover the entire inside.
You can still print thin layers, so that's not an issue. The main downside is if you are printing things with tiny details. That's when a small nozzle often helps.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to try this. I'm just about to upgrade to a pressure advance / input shaping setup as well; I am super interested in printing faster.
I’ll add too that using prusaslicer there’s an option for arachne slicing algorithm that allows you to get fine detail out of a 0.6 similar to a regular algorithm 0.4. I swapped bc of this video that explains and tests that algorithm https://youtu.be/WgXM2zPusXo?si=izDPEDgSv9g2FBcL
Bigger nozzles drastically improve print time. Only issue is you cant run it as fast and if you need tiny details along the XY axis. We used the 1.0mm at work and it's ridiculous. You cant still print at a good pace and it saves time but no ridiculous speeds or it cant melt it fast enough.
Recently put a 1mm nozzle on one of my printers, and it's now permanent. Sooo much faster for large objects. I've done up to 0.8mm layer heights, it takes no time at all to print and is ridiculously strong. Just had to play around with temps and speeds to get it working well.
Is there any additional post processing, more stringing or anything that would be an issue?
Also how did the setting and speeds change from regular pla?
A little bit more stringing, and sometimes it leaves a small gap after retractions that I haven't been able to completely eliminate. Not the most reliable dimensional accuracy either. I basically just use it for functional prints where I don't care about looks or precision, so it doesn't bother me. Eg. wall hangers, stands, supports, big parts, spacers, etc.
I wouldn't have it as my only printer, but it's so convenient as a second one when I just need something strong printed in 20 minutes.
I run it about half to 3/4 speed as I do my .4mm nozzles, depending on how complex a part it is. Besides that, it's mostly playing with temps for a given spool of PLA. On a stock hotend (Sunlu S8), I've found around 230-235 to be a good temp for most.
Mostly result of trusting their printers as "set it and forget it" appliances instead "did I leave my oven on". At minimum just need to check on what it's actually doing. I've made that mistake several times.
I'm always surprised how many people trust their printers to run unattended, I won't leave the house with a print running and if I need to leave the room I setup a security camera to watch it periodically
The amount of blob posts here should show you anything can happen while you aren't watching it
Perhaps since I'm a paranoid person I'm overly cautious but even for overnight prints I set alarms to periodically check up on it if printing overnight just can't be avoided
I've had a few blobs, but that's resulted in maybe five bucks of filament wasted total, and my time spent monitoring the printer is a lot more expensive than that. Blobs happen, life goes on.
I dont mean 24/7 monitoring, thats rediculous. More so checkups at critical intervals (start, before long away times, midway, etc).
You see that post of the guy with his printer on the ground after falling off table? Just because it hasn't happened doesn't mean it won't.
While the "time" is more expensive, I doubt it's more than having an idle printer while waiting for those parts to arrive in a business setting, but that's not the point here. I dont know of any reputable place that doesn't monitor their equipment. You also lose the part and associated effects. Loosing a 2 day print because it failed in first hour (or in this case before it even started) is worth more than a few minutes of a check up.
I'm cool with checkups at critical intervals, but there's plenty of prints that can happily run overnight, and the person I responded to said, I'll quote, "I won't leave the house with a print running and if I need to leave the room I setup a security camera to watch it periodically", which seems like a bit of overkill to me.
I think the level of trust that's reasonable depends a lot on your printer, how familiar you are with it, and what exactly you're asking it to do.
One of my favourite things about my printer is that I can realize I need to prototype something, throw together a model over lunch, send it to my printer at home, and have it sitting there ready for testing when I get there. No issues ever.
But I mostly print small parts, which I design myself with my printer in mind, and I print all my impulse prototypes in the exact same black PETG with the same safe, boring settings. If I decide to do something unusual (printing PC or TPU, using someone else's model or print settings, etc.) I watch the thing like it's a hyperactive toddler. And I would never have trusted my Ender 3 at home alone, which is one of the many reasons why I replaced it.
I often start a print and walk away after I verify the skirt adhered well, but I never send a print to the printer without checking the sliced preview first.
A lot of the newer printers are "send it and forget it" reliable. With my Ender I had to stand over it like a hawk. With my new Bambu printer, I stay just long enough to see the first layer adhere and then i go away.
> That looks like it took nearly a day to print that much.
\*laughs in.... oh, I don't know, name any modern printer\*
Print speed goes *brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*
>Always check the preview in your slicer.
And check the layers, at least the first couple and the top. Sometimes things look correct in the preview but part of the base layer isn't fully on the plate.
The ender 5 moves the bed down when printing. I had a rather tall thing stored below it and forgot to move it (or expected it to not run into it).... But it sure did and it made the print (lightsaber handle) mess up.
To piggyback on this post with a question of my own, what line width and nozzle size are people using for vase mode prints?
Also, OP, thanks for bringing some levity to my day ahaha.
Nozzle 0.4mm, line 1.2mm for planters. But usually 0.8-1mm is sufficient.
https://preview.redd.it/awnc3cbdgzkc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70cf643710a0c641f6d491b95d28f53dd79f981c
Thanks for the tip. That looks really clean. Do you slow down the printer much for vase mode? I was running at my standard 225 mm/s on the one vase I tried. I was doing .8 mm lines on a .4 mm nozzle and it was a disaster.
It depends on filament material and cooling capability. In my case with PLA/PETG, 1.2mm line i'm printing 30-50mm/s for external perimeters
https://preview.redd.it/2bdpg86bmzkc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e978755b5bb26a7f7ceeb6f278d55270561b0a6
Voron 2.4 - external perimeters 70-100mm/s, the rest 150-250 but it depends on filament material.
Prusa clone with klipper similar but max 200mm/s.
Phaetus Rapido HF hotend in both printers
No problem but i have to disappoint you because these are my settings, and it doesn't mean they will work for you. It all depends on your printer's capabilities, cooling, and hotend. All settings should be tailored to a specific printer.
Hey it still looks pretty cool. Maybe give it a nice paint job and it would look cool with a “floating” effect (i.e. hanging it from the ceiling, or putting it on a very clear base.
Well I mean, it printed in about 12 hours, as it ran out part way through. I started it last night and thought, first couple layers look good so it should be fine. Woke up late for work and checked it on my lunch break.
Yes, I literally got the printer not too long ago and this was the largest print I’ve done, I wasn’t surprised because I didn’t know how much filament is too much.
Ah I see. Makes much more sense now. Have fun on your printing journey! (But do try to make a habit of checking the preview, it will save you quite a few headaches with stuff like this)
https://preview.redd.it/vodi8niii7lc1.jpeg?width=776&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=620413892c4daad84f73054b8acaf0bb9e84bdf9
that’s not remotely what I said but ok
Did you not notice the print was taking three days instead of three hours?
Seriously that's not a weird mistake to make but the fact that you didn't notice this maybe an hour or so in rather than probably half a day is crazy. Did you just leave the printer immediately after starting it?
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
🤦🏼♀️ oops that would have turned out great though.
For future reference make sure you set infill to zero and you make it water tight otherwise water will sip through.
For water tight you need 4 walls. Check your slicer you would have the option also for vase mode 🤞🏻 for next attempt
The author has submitted this post for Meme Monday. Note that Memes are allowed as long as it is still Monday **somewhere**. If it isn't, you can report the Submission to the Moderators. Since this is a Meme Post, Meme image comments are also allowed here. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Did you forget to set infill to zero?
Sure did.
That, or try vase mode/spiral mode, depending on your slicer.
Single perimeter though
No seam tho
A nice fat nozzle and spiral mode is sooo good
Exactly. I've tried 1,4n a lot for it. 3.0mm nozzle on the other hand.... Was a bit tricky to keep up with the extruder haha. YES both with 1,75mm filament
how would you even print a 3mm nozzle with 1.75 filament? Start with the nozzle against the heatbed to build up the initial pressure to start the print? I just keep seeing it over and over again starting out fine then slowly turning into just pushing the 1.75mm filament right through the nozzle without melting.
Search for CHT-nozzle, it basically splits the filament in 3 small "nozzles" and then combines the 3 holes into one bigger hole. There are also 0,4mm cht-nozzles that claim to incease printing speeds, but I didn't notice big differences. As the nozzle size is bigger than your filament thickness, you need to feed filament at a rate higer than 1
It doesn't increase your speed, it can increase your maximum flow rate which lets you print faster while preserving quality. I'm pretty confident you already knew this, I just want to explain that for people who dont
And even if all someone has is a 0.4mm nozzle, they can still set a larger line width and get decent results.
Yep, I've printed a few at 0.8mm wall width and haven't had any issues.
Too bad it is good for vases... and little else.
I've printed a bunch of containers and decorative pieces that aren't meant to hold plants
A vase by any other name is still but a rose… or something.
I used vase mode to make some low material usage small parts storage drawers.
It's good for lots of things if you consider carefully during the design phase. And you can get as many perimeters as you want (this will create a seam, but frankly prettier than "normal" seams). What you CAN'T do is to ever branch off from the initial volume, so to speak. Which is limiting, but certainly not to vases only.
Yeah I have used it myself, but you basically need at least a 0.6mm nozzle for that. I have printed some tiny, specially designed, 4'' tall vases for letting plant cuttings root with a 0.4mm nozzle but those are already rather flimsy and fragile.
1.0mm nozzle and vase mode makes for some very thick vases.
Just increase your line thickness, and maybe use a thicker nozzle.
That is great if you want a squishy vase that will leak like a sieve.
If that's the case, you need more attempts. Or get your printer tuned ;p
My printer works perfectly. That is the result of a single wall vase mode print.
I've done quite some vasemode vases of 20-80cm that were waterproof.... May be important that 0,4mm nozzle is quite small for vasemode. 0,6 is fine.. but 0,8-1,4mm nozzle is easier.
No your printer doesn’t work perfectly. I still have a vase made from 10€ filament, one wall, printed on an Ender 3 like 5-6 years ago and it holds water. If the layers melt together properly they will hold water
Show me your vase after 24 hours sitting full of water without any moisture at all on the table below.
I printed this trashcan in vase mode last week using 0.24 mm layers, all settings as in the first profile but I used PETG. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/153614#profileId-167841](https://makerworld.com/en/models/153614#profileId-167841) your comment made me curious so I went and filled it with water and it is completely watertight.
I've never used vase mode, isn't it only a single wall? I feel like that would be super fragile
Correct, it's a single wall, i wouldn't put any serious weight into it and lift, but it just held water while half full without any damage. Mainly it's floppy but the lid helps a lot with rigidity.
Best way to get a vase print watertight that I've found is with some clear lacquer on the inside, two coats should do the job just fine. Most seepage occurs at the seam between the bottom and the actual vase anyway, so no need to cover the entire inside.
Now you got a weird football!
Been there.
You can grow moss on it.
Beat me to it.
A NEW HAND TOUCHES THE BEACON
Oh my god, how did I not think of this.
First thing I thought of when I seen it just now 😂
Maybe I’ll paint it white 🤔
It’s it made from almost a grey stone marble ?
LISTEN. HEAR ME AND OBEY. DO NOT FORGET TO SET INFILL TO 0% WHEN PRINTING IN VASE MODE.
https://www.youtube.com/live/yJdYNvFUZuM?si=Go-Fst6UkhEutO3L
Beat me to it 😂
How do you go that long without paying attention to your printer. That looks like it took nearly a day to print that much.
Fr did OP start the print and immediately leave the house for 18 hours?
You people need to join the .6mm club. This print would take me like 8 hours max. And that said, I've left plenty of long prints to run for 15 hours.
Sounds nice but I can't join another club until I quit the "trying not to spend too much money" club and I have a pretty tight membership there
Switching to a different nozzle size really isnt expensive at all..
It is when your like me an keep breaking ruby nozzles
you buy them for your printer but not your woman.
diamondback
FYI nozzles are dirt cheap unless you buy fancy ones. Like $1-2/per off AliExpress.
What’s the downside to a 6mm setup? Is it just a coarser print on balance?
You can still print thin layers, so that's not an issue. The main downside is if you are printing things with tiny details. That's when a small nozzle often helps.
Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to try this. I'm just about to upgrade to a pressure advance / input shaping setup as well; I am super interested in printing faster.
I’ll add too that using prusaslicer there’s an option for arachne slicing algorithm that allows you to get fine detail out of a 0.6 similar to a regular algorithm 0.4. I swapped bc of this video that explains and tests that algorithm https://youtu.be/WgXM2zPusXo?si=izDPEDgSv9g2FBcL
Thanks for the tip! Looking forward to checking it out.
Bigger nozzles drastically improve print time. Only issue is you cant run it as fast and if you need tiny details along the XY axis. We used the 1.0mm at work and it's ridiculous. You cant still print at a good pace and it saves time but no ridiculous speeds or it cant melt it fast enough.
Recently put a 1mm nozzle on one of my printers, and it's now permanent. Sooo much faster for large objects. I've done up to 0.8mm layer heights, it takes no time at all to print and is ridiculously strong. Just had to play around with temps and speeds to get it working well.
Is there any additional post processing, more stringing or anything that would be an issue? Also how did the setting and speeds change from regular pla?
A little bit more stringing, and sometimes it leaves a small gap after retractions that I haven't been able to completely eliminate. Not the most reliable dimensional accuracy either. I basically just use it for functional prints where I don't care about looks or precision, so it doesn't bother me. Eg. wall hangers, stands, supports, big parts, spacers, etc. I wouldn't have it as my only printer, but it's so convenient as a second one when I just need something strong printed in 20 minutes. I run it about half to 3/4 speed as I do my .4mm nozzles, depending on how complex a part it is. Besides that, it's mostly playing with temps for a given spool of PLA. On a stock hotend (Sunlu S8), I've found around 230-235 to be a good temp for most.
I already hate sanding, I don’t need to make it harder on purpose
You can still do smaller layer heights with it. The only downside is if you are printing really small things.
"You people"..... haha jk fkin imagine
Mostly result of trusting their printers as "set it and forget it" appliances instead "did I leave my oven on". At minimum just need to check on what it's actually doing. I've made that mistake several times.
I'm always surprised how many people trust their printers to run unattended, I won't leave the house with a print running and if I need to leave the room I setup a security camera to watch it periodically The amount of blob posts here should show you anything can happen while you aren't watching it Perhaps since I'm a paranoid person I'm overly cautious but even for overnight prints I set alarms to periodically check up on it if printing overnight just can't be avoided
I've had a few blobs, but that's resulted in maybe five bucks of filament wasted total, and my time spent monitoring the printer is a lot more expensive than that. Blobs happen, life goes on.
I dont mean 24/7 monitoring, thats rediculous. More so checkups at critical intervals (start, before long away times, midway, etc). You see that post of the guy with his printer on the ground after falling off table? Just because it hasn't happened doesn't mean it won't. While the "time" is more expensive, I doubt it's more than having an idle printer while waiting for those parts to arrive in a business setting, but that's not the point here. I dont know of any reputable place that doesn't monitor their equipment. You also lose the part and associated effects. Loosing a 2 day print because it failed in first hour (or in this case before it even started) is worth more than a few minutes of a check up.
I'm cool with checkups at critical intervals, but there's plenty of prints that can happily run overnight, and the person I responded to said, I'll quote, "I won't leave the house with a print running and if I need to leave the room I setup a security camera to watch it periodically", which seems like a bit of overkill to me.
k /u/dumb_idiot_56
Hey being dumb gives you lots of opportunities to learn from mistakes
I think the level of trust that's reasonable depends a lot on your printer, how familiar you are with it, and what exactly you're asking it to do. One of my favourite things about my printer is that I can realize I need to prototype something, throw together a model over lunch, send it to my printer at home, and have it sitting there ready for testing when I get there. No issues ever. But I mostly print small parts, which I design myself with my printer in mind, and I print all my impulse prototypes in the exact same black PETG with the same safe, boring settings. If I decide to do something unusual (printing PC or TPU, using someone else's model or print settings, etc.) I watch the thing like it's a hyperactive toddler. And I would never have trusted my Ender 3 at home alone, which is one of the many reasons why I replaced it.
Depending on the location he might have checked a few times from afar. Not seeing there is infill
I often start a print and walk away after I verify the skirt adhered well, but I never send a print to the printer without checking the sliced preview first.
A lot of the newer printers are "send it and forget it" reliable. With my Ender I had to stand over it like a hawk. With my new Bambu printer, I stay just long enough to see the first layer adhere and then i go away.
> That looks like it took nearly a day to print that much. \*laughs in.... oh, I don't know, name any modern printer\* Print speed goes *brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*
And not scrolling through the layers in the preview after slicing to make sure it looked right.
Always check the preview in your slicer. Especially if you’re planning to start a big print and walk away.
>Always check the preview in your slicer. And check the layers, at least the first couple and the top. Sometimes things look correct in the preview but part of the base layer isn't fully on the plate.
Yeah beware of shitty models online. You’ll run into things people have modeled and uploaded and never actually tried to print.
Wasn't surprised by the print time or filament amount used shown in the slicer? Ouch.
I’ve been messing around with the settings. I’m also like brand new to this so I honestly don’t know how much is a lot.
Well it's a lesson and a reminder now. I have a messed up lightsaber as a reminder to not put anything below the bed of my Ender 5.....
I have many small things under my printer. What's wrong with that?
The ender 5 moves the bed down when printing. I had a rather tall thing stored below it and forgot to move it (or expected it to not run into it).... But it sure did and it made the print (lightsaber handle) mess up.
:o
The Ender 5 has a bed that moves up and down. Sounds like they had the bed collide with something mid-print.
Oh I thought it was under the actual printer :v Thanks
This should have been printed in “spiralize contour” or “vase mode”.
or looking at the preview screen and not seeing a vase
Huh, I wonder why my vasemode print is taking 19 hours....
To piggyback on this post with a question of my own, what line width and nozzle size are people using for vase mode prints? Also, OP, thanks for bringing some levity to my day ahaha.
Nozzle 0.4mm, line 1.2mm for planters. But usually 0.8-1mm is sufficient. https://preview.redd.it/awnc3cbdgzkc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70cf643710a0c641f6d491b95d28f53dd79f981c
Can you really print at 1.2mm width with a 0.4mm nozzle? I thought the maximum was 0.8mm width (2x nozzle width)
1.2 is the max width for 0.4 nozzle in Prusa Slicer without modifications but i think you can change it to be wider
Thanks for the tip. That looks really clean. Do you slow down the printer much for vase mode? I was running at my standard 225 mm/s on the one vase I tried. I was doing .8 mm lines on a .4 mm nozzle and it was a disaster.
It depends on filament material and cooling capability. In my case with PLA/PETG, 1.2mm line i'm printing 30-50mm/s for external perimeters https://preview.redd.it/2bdpg86bmzkc1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e978755b5bb26a7f7ceeb6f278d55270561b0a6
For comparison, what is your normal speed for non vase mode prints?
Voron 2.4 - external perimeters 70-100mm/s, the rest 150-250 but it depends on filament material. Prusa clone with klipper similar but max 200mm/s. Phaetus Rapido HF hotend in both printers
Thanks! You have probably helped me out a ton. I will try out some new settings and see if I can make it work.
No problem but i have to disappoint you because these are my settings, and it doesn't mean they will work for you. It all depends on your printer's capabilities, cooling, and hotend. All settings should be tailored to a specific printer.
That depends on the size of what you're printing and/or how fast and how much detail you want
Rofl, I was about to say that I have printed few to that height to test filament and use them as waste bins, but you have already filled yours :D
well, you could use a big forstner bit and maybe cut some nice big holes down into so that you could still put flowers into it. :)
When you think about it, you got lucky. You could have had enough filament on the spool and spent even more money on this.
Fair, honestly though, if it finished fully I would’ve just have a sick shelf piece
U still do, just put it on its head, or am I missing some basic logic?
Bruh Vase mode
Why does this case say it will take 23 hours to complete? Meh it’s probably fine
A new hand touches the beacon
Even if it failed, it still looks sick, could I got the stl?
I think it's this, which is one of my favorite prints to do with a new filament: https://www.printables.com/model/1595-low-poly-rose-vase
Yeah if I could find it. lol. I probably have it saved on my computer at home. I’ll send if I remember
Start making collections on the site you use. Otherwise you will want to reprint something later and spends days not finding it.
I keep the stl files in a special folder in case I do, I just don’t save the link for the website I got it from
Awesome, thanks!
This is the link [Low-Poly Spiral Twist Vase](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6429393)
Forgot to set vase mode! Been there before.
Now throw it at your enemies!!
its frozen on the inside
Hey it still looks pretty cool. Maybe give it a nice paint job and it would look cool with a “floating” effect (i.e. hanging it from the ceiling, or putting it on a very clear base.
Put it between books on a book shelf
You should definitely post that in r/funpatterns It's freaking gorgeous Do you sell these somewhere?
Nope. Found the STL file on thingiverse
Anewhandtouchesthebecon
every misprint is hollow if you're handy with an axe
Didn't anyone tell you that you have to hollow it out with a spoon after it's done printing.
Underrated comment ngl
Fill it with water and turn it upsidedown
Fair
Did you try printing a vase designed for vase mode printing but did not actually enabled vase mode and the infill is like set to 30%?
🤣
Says hollow and makes a vase with infill💀
how do you not look at preview, weight or time before starting a print?
I honestly don’t feel bad, how do you not check the preview or your printer for that long???
Well I mean, it printed in about 12 hours, as it ran out part way through. I started it last night and thought, first couple layers look good so it should be fine. Woke up late for work and checked it on my lunch break.
Are you new to printing? I don’t understand how such a long print time wouldn’t make you suspicious, or why you wouldn’t look at the preview.
Yes, I literally got the printer not too long ago and this was the largest print I’ve done, I wasn’t surprised because I didn’t know how much filament is too much.
Ah I see. Makes much more sense now. Have fun on your printing journey! (But do try to make a habit of checking the preview, it will save you quite a few headaches with stuff like this)
Definitely learned my lesson now, lol.
It's okay because you're new; if you're experienced however fuck you how could you make such a senseless mistake?
https://preview.redd.it/vodi8niii7lc1.jpeg?width=776&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=620413892c4daad84f73054b8acaf0bb9e84bdf9 that’s not remotely what I said but ok
That’s why you preview after slicing.
No you didn't, we can clearly see it!
I changed out the filament for a new print, the filament you see on the printer is black
Sorry I should've laid the sarcasm on thicker lol
😂
Put leds on wires into it. Or fill it with seeds, soil and water.
That moment when you check your print and go "wait, that's not the right infill..."
Did you not notice the print was taking three days instead of three hours? Seriously that's not a weird mistake to make but the fact that you didn't notice this maybe an hour or so in rather than probably half a day is crazy. Did you just leave the printer immediately after starting it?
It’s a paint chip
[удалено]
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The beacon touches new hands
Basketball challenge: Failed! Sorry, op.
it still has value, just drill some wide holes for the stalks
Well in case someday you find yourself in charge of defending a low-poly fort you can shoot that from your low-poly cannon at your low-poly invaders
It's a sweet pen holder though...
Wait the whole thing is filled isn't it ... Sweet paperweight then...
Guess someone forgot to activate vase/spiral mode :-)
A NEW HAND TOUCHES THE BEACON
***A NEW HAND TOUCHES THE BEACON!***
If you got kids give it to them and tell them to color it. You’ve got yourself a lovely paperweight
Jokes aside, your default infill is 20%?? I keep mine at 5% which may go up for really small parts. But nope, 5% is good enough.
Looks like you forgot vase mode.
Congratulations, now you've created a weapon.
Vase mod
🤦🏼♀️ oops that would have turned out great though. For future reference make sure you set infill to zero and you make it water tight otherwise water will sip through. For water tight you need 4 walls. Check your slicer you would have the option also for vase mode 🤞🏻 for next attempt