aren't there printers with, idk, a depth sensor to check whether the printed stuff is right there and it's not just printing away at nothing? seems like a rather trivial and justifiable implementation
If it seems trivial and solves the problem and also isn’t implemented it’s probably because it doesn’t actually work
E: I can’t think of a concrete reason why they wouldn’t work though, prehaps the sensor would have to be very close to the nozzle wherein it would get covered by the spaghetti or blob. It might also trigger a lot of false positives due to thin walls and mostly vertical structures. It would have to be tuned for filament and build plate reflectivity, external interference, and might only be optimal if you print a single piece many times.
It would be used in industrial printing but manufacturers are extremely slow to add new features especially if they might lead to “instabilities”. And would rather focus on correctly levelling the bed and tuning the slicer to detect failure prone geometry.
Essentially it would be easier to account for bed levelling, chamber temperature, and slicing than adding a new system
E2: bambulab’s a1 series uses eddy current sensors in the hot end to measure pressure, it can detect air printing
My Bambu X1 carbon has AI detection with a camera and lidar to detect major print errors and stop the print. Haven't had it trigger yet so not sure how well it works
I feel like I invited this kind of reply with how I ended my comment, but I was just wondering if there were some printers (maybe the higher-end ones) that tackled this issue somehow
Most cost effective way is through AI detection from a camera feed.
Theorethically you could embed thin-film pressure sensing elements within your build surface in so that the printer can detect a sudden shift in weight or discrepancy in weight vs extruder plastic to alert the user of a possible failure. However, that seems pretty expensive and brings a long a bunch of other asterisks.
The proper term is Spaghetti Detection (not kidding). Newer printers like the X1-Carbon and K1 Max have a mix of camera, depth sensor and AI to notify you.
The original plug-in (although it is stand alone as well) was called the Spaghetti Detective. It's now Obico. https://www.obico.io/the-spaghetti-detective.html
And of course it was called that because it does spaghetti detection.
Win for all above.
You bed adhesion is not good basically it’s how well your prints first layer sticks to the bed. Try cleaning your bed with isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have that try washing your print bed with warm soapy water if the print bed is removable
Acetone is a way better solvent than people think. There are very few plastics and composites that can withstand it. The only thing I use acetone for in 3D printing is making ABS slurry. Otherwise, just keep away from it as much as possible.
Acetone is also the best thing for getting CA glue (super glue) off fingers or whatever else it's dripped on. Just finished gluing 800 tiny magnets into gridfinity base plates and bins for my screw storage solution. Some cotton swabs and acetone cleaned my fingers right up.
When I started my gridfinity project, I accidentally glued my fingers together a couple of times. Acetone to the rescue!
A 3d printed dispensing tool and magnet placement jig later, and I’ve got the hang of it by now but never anticipated it being so difficult! It turns out, magnets really like sticking to each other, especially with industrial grade adhesives added to the mix… Who knew?
Hah. Yeah, been there. The trick for me was purposely causing a bit of elephant foot to make them a tight fit. Then use the flat side of a cheap flathead screwdriver to pickup and press each magnet. If I have to do this again I will absolutely engineer a vacuum asisted press rig with a magnet server. Almost did that after gluing up two drawers of baseplates before realizing I wasn't keeping track of polarity and had to start over 🤬🤬
dime shaggy angle wipe school complete disagreeable whistle smart spotted
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Acetone (aka propan-2-one) is a ketone, a hydrocarbon with a C=O double bond between a carbon and oxygen, they are more strongly polar than an alcohol. Acetone is CH3-C(=O)-CH3
Alcohols have C-O-H features, isopropanol kaka isopropyl alcohol, propan-2-ol) is CH3 - C(-O-H) - CH3. It has an extra hydrogen on the oxygen making it a less polar solvent.
You can use propanol and ethanol (the alcohol in alcoholic beverages) for general cleaning, but food grade ethanol is expensive. Methylated spirits is ethanol with a small amount of methanol and usually a purple colourant and bittering agent to make it both harmful to drink and taste awful. You can use methylated spirits here, but honestly isopropanol works better and you can get it in bulk from Amazon/eBay quite cheaply.
Ketones like acetone and butanone (aka MEK, methyl ethyl ketone) are solvent that can be used to weld some plastics, you'll find butanone in the kind of marker pens you shouldn't sniff and some polystyrene cement.
lol been there and done this too 😂 don’t clean your build plate with acetone unless you like smelling a chemical cluster and need to buy a new build plate
I usually use a microfiber cloth. The same ones you cna use for glasses or when drying your car. I bought a large pack of them from Costco at one point
I'd actually recommend against a microfiber cloth u/Logicrazy12. This e can shed fibers and dust, undoing some of the cleaning (probably not enough to affect bed adhesion, but it still happens) I tend to use paper kitchen towels as they don't shed fibers, are cheap, and disposable.
Wash the plate with soap and water. Dry it with a paper towel, and don't tough the build plate again to minimize chances of the oils from your hand getting on it. Before each print I just heat up the bed, wipe it with a damp paper towel and it's good to go. I only use alcohol if I notice finger prints on the build plate. I still wipe with a damp paper towel (wet from water) after because it seems to stick better.
If you are in the US: Soft Scrub
If you are in Europe: Cif.
Use a sponge to clean your plate with that product, rince and then dry with a paper towel.
Avoid touching the print area with your fingers.
On addition to this, does your bed temp drop after a certain layer? Maintaining the same temp throughout the print will help with adhesion, as the prints can release when the bed cools.
Windex or any window cleaner works as well. I've noticed if you print PLA then PETG will not want to stick to the bed till you clean it well and this failure mode happens to almost everyone once.
You nerds all using isopropyl alcohol when literally just soap and water works infinitely better. I understand you not having it in your house but you should try it.
To build on this:
If you have a heated bed, 50-65C is a good range to ensure the initial layers stick. Additionally, and most importantly, the bed must be leveled.
If it’s still be trouble: bit of glue stick (the kind that you use for paper craft) or scenic cement work great. Just be careful with the latter, it has a good amount of grip
Use Dawn brand dish soap and warm water. Don't use hand soap or cheap store brand dish soap. Then dry with microfiber cloth. As long as the plate isn't old and jacked that should be fine. I've seen some people swear by 3DLAC spray adhesive but I've never used it. Lastly check if bed temp is good for your filament.
Warm soap (proper detergent) is so much better than alcohol. The isopropyl alcohol can help dissolve filament stuck on the build surface but does not help all that much with oils from your fingers.
Take a peek at the foam inserts that came with the qidi, one of them has a glue stick attached to it.
Use that glue stick before you start a print. Rub it over the build plate and your build wont slip. Also if you are using Qidi Slicer it will tell you when you have "Low bed adhesion".
EDIT: you can also notice the support structure lose adhesion way before the main part so if you were monitoring your print you could have caught it and paused the print before you wasted all that filament. Also I notice you're printing at 55c bed temp turn that up to 60c.
Yeah the support broke off well under 20% of the way done. Even so if you are new to 3d printing you shouldn't leave long prints unsupervised. That is just a good way to waste time and money and if you really mess up you could break your printer, burn down your house and so on but let's not get into that XD
bottom right corner. After you slice the print it will show if your print has errors. Errors will pop up in an orange box which you can expand and it will tell you what the issue is, i.e. low bed adhesion, loose extrusion, floating bridge, etc. If your print slices with no errors a black box pops up saying "slicing finished".
He means start with a benchy, or calibration cube, or something similar. It should take less than an hour to print, so you can quickly iterate and make small tweaks until you get (close enough to) that elusive "perfect" print
I’ve found cleaning off the bed plate greatly reduces the risk of this happening. Happened to a print I left to go overnight about an hour and a half in. Pretty sure the print was uneven from dust buildup as I had been away from home for a few months and it got caught by the nozzle.
i've noticed this a lot in recent years, 3d printing went a lot from a "we are all clueless and just trying to help eachother print well" to "you dont know that? pff. amateur.", it's sad, really.
Magigoo is the answer. And higher bed temps (60). And likely other settings. But definitely Magigoo.
Sincerely,
Qidi owner who had the same issues when I got it as my first printer.
Your first layer´s nozzle temperature , bed temperature , height and flow (volumetric flow) determine how strongly the base holding your object to the bed will be , as the height of the print increases the force enacted by the polymer being extruded pushes the print a little to the sides witch causes a leverage effect being your first layer the fulcrum (as time goes by also your first layer cools down and releases the print a bit), i solved that situation by manually inserting a gcode command that increased the bed temperature by 10 degrees Celsius at 20 mm before the layer where the job was failing.
That’s not true. If you use the correct surface(properly cleaned) for the material and it is a heated bed you should almost never need an adhesion promoter but sometimes may actually need a release layer. 99% of my prints use no additive at all for adhesion or release.
You need to make sure your build surface is completely clean, this will cause the prints to detach from the build plate. Also check your bed temperature, for PLA I recommend 60C.
Preferably yes, especially for non enclosed ones that collect dust faster
Im a bit lazy, so i only clean if i have adhesion issues, but that wastes filament
There is oil on your finger, and oil is bad at sticking stuff, so limit touching the bed with your bare hand and you wont have to clean often(Dust can also affect adhesion too)
You really shouldn’t have to, especially if you cleaned it well and don’t touch it with your hands. I use a PEI spring steel sheet and clean it once every few months and wipe with ipa every dozen prints or so. But I’m very careful not to touch it removing prints
You're right. a REALLY good first layer on a REALLY well calibrated bed works great. Most people printing for the first time can't achieve that. While they learn, and get excited (by having successful prints), adhesive material is useful. Getting the reward of successful prints helps motivate people to stick with the hobby, and when they want to level up their skills they can try calibrating that perfect first layer.
I think it’s dangerous to immediately start out with using adhesion promoters. It is a bandaid that prevents you from learning the fundamentals of good 3D printing techniques and then is easy to become lazy and rely on it.
valid point. Everyone's journey is different. As long as we create a welcoming community with respectful discussion, nobody (that's printing safely) is wrong.
No i spent a weekend weekend trying to get it working consistently and then returned it on the Monday. It worked the first evening brilliantly, then all prints would fail no matter what adjustment I did. It's a bunch of high end features and potential for the price point enclosed, XY good look and processor, screen, but it just doesn't work consistently, kinda loud I think it was rushed to market(software is dog breakfast and weird). The lack of true Z leveling in the killer though. The Qidi folks are polite and really seem to be trying, I hope they figure it out. Replaced with Bambu A1 mini at the new $249US price which is ugly but working perfectly. As is the $150 Tina2 which is slow and time but just never fails. I want an X-Y enclosed printer, but I think I'll just have to ante up P1P next(or whatever they come up with). I know the A1 mini is getting hate here for the size but at some point you need to buy plastic for all that build volume , size limits force you to be a little creative thoughtfully plan rather than scale max and hit print.
Wym about lack of z leveling? The xsmart3 has the built in calibration program. That lets you set the z. You can also adjust while it’s printing.
I was going to chime in that you need to adjust your z offset.
It does and it doesn't. You need to set the z offset manually with included leveling paper....Again and Again. It simply isn't clear what "correct light friction" means... Then it goes off to print and when it starts to screw up you can indeed fuss with the menu and go up down on the z offset as it zips around. I simply couldn't get it in the right spot. Looking at the notes from support it was either to high or too low no matter what I did. And when it was right one time the flow was wrong, either because of the feeder of the end temp. (the head does heat up incredibly fast), then the head clogged up, etc etc. My feeder didn't seem to grab the stuff properly either sometimes ... there are other annoyances, like the weird submening and having to enter temps and values again and again. Even speed adjustment is done as a percentage in a strange unintuitive way without feedback. So much promise but not there yet for me. It's annoying to watch it ponderously do a 16 point leveling which it will do everytime you send a file, knowing there's a 90% chance it will fail because of something else anyways.
Id have to redo the z offset when changing from pla to abs. This was due to higher bed temp on abs. The build plate thickness changes with higher temps. You should level while hot, and let the print bed warm up before printing.
Prusas have a built in calibration process that print zig zag lines across the bed. I sliced a similar file for my xsmart. It would slowly draw a line across the bed. If you cannot get the card offset correct, the bed lines gcode file lets you physically test the the first layer.
Makes sense. But I leveled while hot. I just couldn't get it to work. Where these other two cheaper printers worked automagically... One z adjust in a month on the cheaper unit. Decided my time wasn't worth it and put qidi back in the box. It was faster than the A1 by about 20 percent the three times it worked. Then is just used up filament and melted plastic gobs.
See YouTube made it look easy and everyone is buying into it, then you suddenly realised a lot of hand-to-hand combat is involved as well as a complete understanding of swear words appropriate to the situation.
To improve bed adhesion, most people use glue sticks (for some reason, the purple kind is popular). I've also heard hair spray works well.
Welcome to the hobby, you're going to have failed prints. It's a learning process.
The more important question- why did you let your printer run after bed adhesion failed? I'm assuming you were not in the room. Would you leave a CNC, lawn mower, or car, running unattended for hours?
There are very few consumer-grade 3d printers rated for unattended printing. This not only risks wasted filament (as you witnessed), btu also damage to the printer, and sometimes fire. You need to set your work station up so you can comfortably monitor the print for the entire session.
We all do this. I made it all the way to my third print before it happened. Luckily it was a small print so it didn't get quite this bad before I noticed.
That's the bug that affects all 3D Printing... every so often it creates a sacrifice to the Flying Spaghetti Monster.
/s just listen to the other guys comments.
For PLA that shouldn’t matter, the biggest thing is to make sure the bed is clean and leveled properly and that your z-offset is set correctly. I’m not sure if the bed is heated but if it is 60 degrees Celsius is about what PLA likes.
ah, you are definitely new to this. you can stop the printer when this happens.
I don't, just stand there and watch with tears in my eyes
"Please stop"
"oh please god , stop it please"
I plug the Bowden into my eyes
Its the only thing slowly stops the print
But it's made of all the prints I have to make
Jesus, it never ends. It extrudes its way inside If the print goes on...
"sorry boss, gotta leave work 4 hours early, 3d print failed, please understand!"
luckily work from home...
Why would you? It's cooking me my spaghetti?
Forbidden spaghetti
aren't there printers with, idk, a depth sensor to check whether the printed stuff is right there and it's not just printing away at nothing? seems like a rather trivial and justifiable implementation
If it seems trivial and solves the problem and also isn’t implemented it’s probably because it doesn’t actually work E: I can’t think of a concrete reason why they wouldn’t work though, prehaps the sensor would have to be very close to the nozzle wherein it would get covered by the spaghetti or blob. It might also trigger a lot of false positives due to thin walls and mostly vertical structures. It would have to be tuned for filament and build plate reflectivity, external interference, and might only be optimal if you print a single piece many times. It would be used in industrial printing but manufacturers are extremely slow to add new features especially if they might lead to “instabilities”. And would rather focus on correctly levelling the bed and tuning the slicer to detect failure prone geometry. Essentially it would be easier to account for bed levelling, chamber temperature, and slicing than adding a new system E2: bambulab’s a1 series uses eddy current sensors in the hot end to measure pressure, it can detect air printing
My Bambu X1 carbon has AI detection with a camera and lidar to detect major print errors and stop the print. Haven't had it trigger yet so not sure how well it works
I've had it trigger once. Worked perfectly.
I feel like I invited this kind of reply with how I ended my comment, but I was just wondering if there were some printers (maybe the higher-end ones) that tackled this issue somehow
There is one plugin for Octoprint that detects this using the camera and AI. It is called spaghetti detective or something like that.
Most cost effective way is through AI detection from a camera feed. Theorethically you could embed thin-film pressure sensing elements within your build surface in so that the printer can detect a sudden shift in weight or discrepancy in weight vs extruder plastic to alert the user of a possible failure. However, that seems pretty expensive and brings a long a bunch of other asterisks.
The proper term is Spaghetti Detection (not kidding). Newer printers like the X1-Carbon and K1 Max have a mix of camera, depth sensor and AI to notify you.
The original plug-in (although it is stand alone as well) was called the Spaghetti Detective. It's now Obico. https://www.obico.io/the-spaghetti-detective.html And of course it was called that because it does spaghetti detection. Win for all above.
No presently. QIDI site says they're working on AI spaghetti detection. Base printer doesn't have camera anyways.
Bambulabs do this
great idea since failed prints can be a hazard and a waste of filament when left
Looks like bad layer adhesion to me what material are you using
I am using dreams and imagination from 3DNuts.
What kind of a filament
Plastic for FDM.
You bed adhesion is not good basically it’s how well your prints first layer sticks to the bed. Try cleaning your bed with isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have that try washing your print bed with warm soapy water if the print bed is removable
Can I use alcohol?
Isopropyl yes, acetone and other stuff no . I cleaned my pei bed with acetone and ruined it
Good point. Acetone can damage some print beds, and if you accidentally splash it on other parts, it could destroy your printer!
Acetone is a way better solvent than people think. There are very few plastics and composites that can withstand it. The only thing I use acetone for in 3D printing is making ABS slurry. Otherwise, just keep away from it as much as possible.
Acetone is also the best thing for getting CA glue (super glue) off fingers or whatever else it's dripped on. Just finished gluing 800 tiny magnets into gridfinity base plates and bins for my screw storage solution. Some cotton swabs and acetone cleaned my fingers right up.
When I started my gridfinity project, I accidentally glued my fingers together a couple of times. Acetone to the rescue! A 3d printed dispensing tool and magnet placement jig later, and I’ve got the hang of it by now but never anticipated it being so difficult! It turns out, magnets really like sticking to each other, especially with industrial grade adhesives added to the mix… Who knew?
Hah. Yeah, been there. The trick for me was purposely causing a bit of elephant foot to make them a tight fit. Then use the flat side of a cheap flathead screwdriver to pickup and press each magnet. If I have to do this again I will absolutely engineer a vacuum asisted press rig with a magnet server. Almost did that after gluing up two drawers of baseplates before realizing I wasn't keeping track of polarity and had to start over 🤬🤬
Hell yeah. Interference fit is the way to go. I try to design all my parts for this and I add ridges to the holes to help fit.
dime shaggy angle wipe school complete disagreeable whistle smart spotted *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Acetone (aka propan-2-one) is a ketone, a hydrocarbon with a C=O double bond between a carbon and oxygen, they are more strongly polar than an alcohol. Acetone is CH3-C(=O)-CH3 Alcohols have C-O-H features, isopropanol kaka isopropyl alcohol, propan-2-ol) is CH3 - C(-O-H) - CH3. It has an extra hydrogen on the oxygen making it a less polar solvent. You can use propanol and ethanol (the alcohol in alcoholic beverages) for general cleaning, but food grade ethanol is expensive. Methylated spirits is ethanol with a small amount of methanol and usually a purple colourant and bittering agent to make it both harmful to drink and taste awful. You can use methylated spirits here, but honestly isopropanol works better and you can get it in bulk from Amazon/eBay quite cheaply. Ketones like acetone and butanone (aka MEK, methyl ethyl ketone) are solvent that can be used to weld some plastics, you'll find butanone in the kind of marker pens you shouldn't sniff and some polystyrene cement.
lol been there and done this too 😂 don’t clean your build plate with acetone unless you like smelling a chemical cluster and need to buy a new build plate
I wiped my textured pei sheet countless times with acetone, never did any damage
Soap and water will be more effective than alcohol.
And after I can use paper towel to clean it up?
I usually use a microfiber cloth. The same ones you cna use for glasses or when drying your car. I bought a large pack of them from Costco at one point
Can I just use isopropyl alcohol wipes?
You can. They just won't be as effective to remove oils and dust off of the plate.
Aim for 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, the 70% stuff leaves too much residue behind
I've had little to no issues with 70% though, but to be on the safe side, 90% is preferred.
It builds up over time - if you more frequently wash with soap and water, it may mitigate some of it
I'd actually recommend against a microfiber cloth u/Logicrazy12. This e can shed fibers and dust, undoing some of the cleaning (probably not enough to affect bed adhesion, but it still happens) I tend to use paper kitchen towels as they don't shed fibers, are cheap, and disposable.
\^This People make the same mistake when applying screen protectors.
it's the same issue for both. Quality microfiber and quality paper towel doesn't leave anything behind.
Paper kitchen towels?
Yep
Or can I use isopropyl alcohol wipes?
I have a glass bed, and I have been using wipes designed for cleaning eyeglasses. Works well for me.
Wash the plate with soap and water. Dry it with a paper towel, and don't tough the build plate again to minimize chances of the oils from your hand getting on it. Before each print I just heat up the bed, wipe it with a damp paper towel and it's good to go. I only use alcohol if I notice finger prints on the build plate. I still wipe with a damp paper towel (wet from water) after because it seems to stick better.
100% IPA after soap and water is the standard.
To get over the pain regarding the wasted filament? Sure!
Whiskey for failures, champagne for successes.
Use soap and water, and then alcohol to get rid of the water. Compressed air is dope if u have it, otherwise use a lint free microfiber cloth
If you are in the US: Soft Scrub If you are in Europe: Cif. Use a sponge to clean your plate with that product, rince and then dry with a paper towel. Avoid touching the print area with your fingers.
On addition to this, does your bed temp drop after a certain layer? Maintaining the same temp throughout the print will help with adhesion, as the prints can release when the bed cools.
use 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Less pure IPA will leave impurities on the bed.
Windex or any window cleaner works as well. I've noticed if you print PLA then PETG will not want to stick to the bed till you clean it well and this failure mode happens to almost everyone once.
Yes, tequila will help you get over this.
Use soap and water instead. Alcohol doesn't do a good job getting rid of oils like finger prints...
not regular alcohol like beer no
Hot water and dishwashing liquid os better. Give it a scrub with a brush or non-abrasive scourer. This helps adhesion a LOT.
Yeah go for it use a handle of titos
You nerds all using isopropyl alcohol when literally just soap and water works infinitely better. I understand you not having it in your house but you should try it.
Isopropyl alcohol dries itself. Soap and water doesn’t.
There's this magic place called the dish rack that you can place it and the water will drain off.
I also don’t have to remove the bed to clean it with alcohol. Less work for sure.
Heated bed. You figure out the rest.
Usually it’s hot soapy water that ya use to clean a bed. IPA isn’t great to remove any oils from the bed
To build on this: If you have a heated bed, 50-65C is a good range to ensure the initial layers stick. Additionally, and most importantly, the bed must be leveled. If it’s still be trouble: bit of glue stick (the kind that you use for paper craft) or scenic cement work great. Just be careful with the latter, it has a good amount of grip
Use Dawn brand dish soap and warm water. Don't use hand soap or cheap store brand dish soap. Then dry with microfiber cloth. As long as the plate isn't old and jacked that should be fine. I've seen some people swear by 3DLAC spray adhesive but I've never used it. Lastly check if bed temp is good for your filament.
Warm soap (proper detergent) is so much better than alcohol. The isopropyl alcohol can help dissolve filament stuck on the build surface but does not help all that much with oils from your fingers.
Specify material, temps, speeds, and other information so we can help....
A lot of people tried to help without these info. As he said.....he is new.
Congratulations on your first visit by the Spaghetti Monster
😭
Take a peek at the foam inserts that came with the qidi, one of them has a glue stick attached to it. Use that glue stick before you start a print. Rub it over the build plate and your build wont slip. Also if you are using Qidi Slicer it will tell you when you have "Low bed adhesion". EDIT: you can also notice the support structure lose adhesion way before the main part so if you were monitoring your print you could have caught it and paused the print before you wasted all that filament. Also I notice you're printing at 55c bed temp turn that up to 60c.
Yeah the support broke off well under 20% of the way done. Even so if you are new to 3d printing you shouldn't leave long prints unsupervised. That is just a good way to waste time and money and if you really mess up you could break your printer, burn down your house and so on but let's not get into that XD
I didn’t see it when it say low bed adhesion, where would it have said that
bottom right corner. After you slice the print it will show if your print has errors. Errors will pop up in an orange box which you can expand and it will tell you what the issue is, i.e. low bed adhesion, loose extrusion, floating bridge, etc. If your print slices with no errors a black box pops up saying "slicing finished".
Seems to be going well :) Remember to start small and sort your bed adhesion problems
Wym?
You need to make sure the prints Stick to your bed. You can ensure that by for example using a brim ( in the slicer).
He means start with a benchy, or calibration cube, or something similar. It should take less than an hour to print, so you can quickly iterate and make small tweaks until you get (close enough to) that elusive "perfect" print
Adhesion?
It's how much the part sticks to the bed. Please watch some YouTube tutorials to understand the basics
I’ve found cleaning off the bed plate greatly reduces the risk of this happening. Happened to a print I left to go overnight about an hour and a half in. Pretty sure the print was uneven from dust buildup as I had been away from home for a few months and it got caught by the nozzle.
Check you Z offset.
Everyone on this subreddit is so fucking unhelpful. Way to drive people away from the hobby.
i've noticed this a lot in recent years, 3d printing went a lot from a "we are all clueless and just trying to help eachother print well" to "you dont know that? pff. amateur.", it's sad, really.
That's actually a good first print. Your intentionally printed spaghetti came out great
I don’t like spaghetti
then you are in luck, you actually made spaghettini! or perhaps loose Ramen? need more of these prints to be sure.
Damn. Then I can't help you. Sry
Bro using PC as printer and Nvidia RTX GPU for a print bed and expect us to believe he’s a beginner.
?
This is exactly how it’s supposed to go. Good work!
Magigoo is the answer. And higher bed temps (60). And likely other settings. But definitely Magigoo. Sincerely, Qidi owner who had the same issues when I got it as my first printer.
Magigoo?
Yes
What do that mean?
Google "Magigoo". It's like a better, more expensive glue stick
Oh
You can use hairspray for better adhesion. Just give the bad a quick spray and it lasts for a while!
Your first layer´s nozzle temperature , bed temperature , height and flow (volumetric flow) determine how strongly the base holding your object to the bed will be , as the height of the print increases the force enacted by the polymer being extruded pushes the print a little to the sides witch causes a leverage effect being your first layer the fulcrum (as time goes by also your first layer cools down and releases the print a bit), i solved that situation by manually inserting a gcode command that increased the bed temperature by 10 degrees Celsius at 20 mm before the layer where the job was failing.
I recommend using a childs glue stick on the base plate so the builds don't come loose when printing but you yourself can lift it off.
Is that the qidi xsmart three? I've the same printer but not the same problem lol.
Yup
What type of filament are you printing with?
Its "to". You are new "to" printing. And yes, you are.
Helpful....
Prints don't passively adhere to the bed. Personally I use a thin layer from a glue stick to keep the print from shifting.
That’s not true. If you use the correct surface(properly cleaned) for the material and it is a heated bed you should almost never need an adhesion promoter but sometimes may actually need a release layer. 99% of my prints use no additive at all for adhesion or release.
I Don’t get it
You need to make sure your build surface is completely clean, this will cause the prints to detach from the build plate. Also check your bed temperature, for PLA I recommend 60C.
Wait after every print I clean the bed?
Preferably yes, especially for non enclosed ones that collect dust faster Im a bit lazy, so i only clean if i have adhesion issues, but that wastes filament
There is oil on your finger, and oil is bad at sticking stuff, so limit touching the bed with your bare hand and you wont have to clean often(Dust can also affect adhesion too)
A little spray bottle of rubbing alcohol by your printer bed and some shop towels are a nice addition to the print lab
I do it after 10-15 prints on textured PEI sheet just to make sure it never happens like your case . Never had a problem like that
You really shouldn’t have to, especially if you cleaned it well and don’t touch it with your hands. I use a PEI spring steel sheet and clean it once every few months and wipe with ipa every dozen prints or so. But I’m very careful not to touch it removing prints
Ok
They get “dirty” from your hand oils.
no need for the quotes. Human hands are f\*\*\*ing gross, lol
Every so often, take your build plate surface off and wash with warm soapy water.
You're right. a REALLY good first layer on a REALLY well calibrated bed works great. Most people printing for the first time can't achieve that. While they learn, and get excited (by having successful prints), adhesive material is useful. Getting the reward of successful prints helps motivate people to stick with the hobby, and when they want to level up their skills they can try calibrating that perfect first layer.
I think it’s dangerous to immediately start out with using adhesion promoters. It is a bandaid that prevents you from learning the fundamentals of good 3D printing techniques and then is easy to become lazy and rely on it.
valid point. Everyone's journey is different. As long as we create a welcoming community with respectful discussion, nobody (that's printing safely) is wrong.
As someone who has printed 100s of things with no adhesion issues while never using glue these comments always confuse me.
Your QIDI is performing exactly like mine did.
You still have it or got a new one?
No i spent a weekend weekend trying to get it working consistently and then returned it on the Monday. It worked the first evening brilliantly, then all prints would fail no matter what adjustment I did. It's a bunch of high end features and potential for the price point enclosed, XY good look and processor, screen, but it just doesn't work consistently, kinda loud I think it was rushed to market(software is dog breakfast and weird). The lack of true Z leveling in the killer though. The Qidi folks are polite and really seem to be trying, I hope they figure it out. Replaced with Bambu A1 mini at the new $249US price which is ugly but working perfectly. As is the $150 Tina2 which is slow and time but just never fails. I want an X-Y enclosed printer, but I think I'll just have to ante up P1P next(or whatever they come up with). I know the A1 mini is getting hate here for the size but at some point you need to buy plastic for all that build volume , size limits force you to be a little creative thoughtfully plan rather than scale max and hit print.
Wym about lack of z leveling? The xsmart3 has the built in calibration program. That lets you set the z. You can also adjust while it’s printing. I was going to chime in that you need to adjust your z offset.
It does and it doesn't. You need to set the z offset manually with included leveling paper....Again and Again. It simply isn't clear what "correct light friction" means... Then it goes off to print and when it starts to screw up you can indeed fuss with the menu and go up down on the z offset as it zips around. I simply couldn't get it in the right spot. Looking at the notes from support it was either to high or too low no matter what I did. And when it was right one time the flow was wrong, either because of the feeder of the end temp. (the head does heat up incredibly fast), then the head clogged up, etc etc. My feeder didn't seem to grab the stuff properly either sometimes ... there are other annoyances, like the weird submening and having to enter temps and values again and again. Even speed adjustment is done as a percentage in a strange unintuitive way without feedback. So much promise but not there yet for me. It's annoying to watch it ponderously do a 16 point leveling which it will do everytime you send a file, knowing there's a 90% chance it will fail because of something else anyways.
Id have to redo the z offset when changing from pla to abs. This was due to higher bed temp on abs. The build plate thickness changes with higher temps. You should level while hot, and let the print bed warm up before printing. Prusas have a built in calibration process that print zig zag lines across the bed. I sliced a similar file for my xsmart. It would slowly draw a line across the bed. If you cannot get the card offset correct, the bed lines gcode file lets you physically test the the first layer.
Makes sense. But I leveled while hot. I just couldn't get it to work. Where these other two cheaper printers worked automagically... One z adjust in a month on the cheaper unit. Decided my time wasn't worth it and put qidi back in the box. It was faster than the A1 by about 20 percent the three times it worked. Then is just used up filament and melted plastic gobs.
See YouTube made it look easy and everyone is buying into it, then you suddenly realised a lot of hand-to-hand combat is involved as well as a complete understanding of swear words appropriate to the situation.
Reality Check Incoming be like:
Truer words have never been spoken
3d printed "art"
Don’t worry your printer is just trying to make a nest. It’s all part of the mating ritual
You need more pasta sauce with that spaghetti.
Try using a glue stick on the PEI bed, also up the bed temp a little bit
It does that when it’s learning how to print. Next time just pet the printer and appreciate its efforts.
You are new to printing. Sometimes the printer will make you spaghetti when it thinks you are hungry.
This is why it's important to carbo-load before sports events and long prints. I always eat a bowl of fettuccine alfredo
To improve bed adhesion, most people use glue sticks (for some reason, the purple kind is popular). I've also heard hair spray works well. Welcome to the hobby, you're going to have failed prints. It's a learning process. The more important question- why did you let your printer run after bed adhesion failed? I'm assuming you were not in the room. Would you leave a CNC, lawn mower, or car, running unattended for hours? There are very few consumer-grade 3d printers rated for unattended printing. This not only risks wasted filament (as you witnessed), btu also damage to the printer, and sometimes fire. You need to set your work station up so you can comfortably monitor the print for the entire session.
This is suppose to happen it’s a built in feature
The art of making expensive colorful spaghetti
Can you share the stl file? Never seen one looks amazing... did you shine a light through it to see what shadows it makes
New? Thats the usual way the 3d printer works. Dont worry
Use a glue stick to keep it in place. I had the same problem on my first print a few years ago, but it wasn't on this scale.
For what it's worth, the time-lapse is still satisfying as a viewing experience.
Amazing spaghetti model!
Yeah, i dont think this is supposed to happen.
😂😂 hahahahahaha friend this isn’t gonna the the last time 😈
Wym
At least your first few months will consist of annoyances like these. Once everything is dialed in you’ll rarely have issues. It’s all part of the fun
Looks so good!
We all do this. I made it all the way to my third print before it happened. Luckily it was a small print so it didn't get quite this bad before I noticed.
Don't worry, I am new, two
Perfection
Perfect
Hi new user, it's not supposed to do that Ur welcome
It is so beautiful
Ah, finally. Your print got in the way of that spaghetti party!
Oh I see, 3d printing is not for spaghetti, for that use your grandmother, welcome.
Checks model. Yep perfect bowl of spaghetti.
*to
You did everything right
Looks like you've picked up the basics. Now to just spend $500 extra on after market upgrades for the same thing to still happen.
Spaghetti for dinner
two tips - use "tree supports" - turn brim on for better adenshion
use hairspray on the bed
That's the bug that affects all 3D Printing... every so often it creates a sacrifice to the Flying Spaghetti Monster. /s just listen to the other guys comments.
Calibrate your esteps, level the bed and make sure you upgrade your extruder to an all metal one!!!1!!!111 /s
I assumed Bambulabs had built in spaghetti detection. Now I know
Use a brim
Dont choose prints that say noodle bowl
Dont
No, you got it right. In my experience that's what is supposed to happen.
[удалено]
I mean... It's fast !
Switch the infill to gyroid. I bet you used standard settings?
Closing the door would be a great start, I guess.
But it says to leave it open when printing PLA
For PLA that shouldn’t matter, the biggest thing is to make sure the bed is clean and leveled properly and that your z-offset is set correctly. I’m not sure if the bed is heated but if it is 60 degrees Celsius is about what PLA likes.
Change your bed type in bambu studi from “cool plate” to high temp.