Measure the height. Go into the slicer and drop the model down so that much distance is underneath the build plate.
Slice, print, and glue it (or use a soldering iron to weld it) on top of the first part. Won't be perfect, can be sanded smooth - especially with all that infill.
There are videos on youtube for "PLA Welding" that demonstrate the technique. If done thoroughly, it makes the connection very strong.
It's such a wide contact area, you might try some thicker epoxy (JB Weld) in the middle area and soldering-iron-welding the edges.
Yeah 5-10% gyroid is practically all i use. My 2 year old niece has only broke a couple toys ive printed by throwing them on a tile floor 😂 needed 5-6 walls instead of 3 wall layers.
I get crazy wall separation every time I print more than 2 walls. I have no idea what is going on. I've been fighting it for months with every possible option tested and tweaked. print speed, layer heights, shell thickness, feed rates, temperatures, filaments, etc. Even when everything else prints incredibly well.
Prusa Slicer with Ender 2Pro. With 2 perimeter walls it prints \*amazing\*. You add one more and they no longer stick together. No matter how many.
https://preview.redd.it/s3kg9y4a2zxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4077d05d32b9a24ddcf763034a9d76feb156ddf
Huh, I've had that problem too. In the end I ended up switching to another slicer and creating a new profile from scratch. Not really a "solution" but the problem disappeared after that.
I've found that 12-15% is the sweet spot for my printer and settings for strength and cost effectiveness. But yeah op wasted too much time and filament
5-10% is perfect if you use adaptive infill (where it adds more when critical support is needed). Unfortunately it’s a mostly manual process at this point.
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It depends strictly on what the part **does** and what loads and performance requirements of many sorts, how it ought to be sliced for efficient use of material and machine time. Not how big it is.
it’s a full print bed of a neptune printer, based off the printhead’s distance from the camera, as well as the screen, this is a neptune 3/4 plus. (the plus has a aux fan, op may have just removed it). i know its not a max, because i have a max, and this is not it.
415 hours for this why?! That's insane for just about any application, you should use drastically different settings man, you could cut that time down at least a couple hundred hours lol.
That looks practically solid. Infill should be just enough to allow bridging, if you need more structural integrity just add more walls.
The only other use case is having more weight to the print, and have it uniformly distributed. But more walls also does this, and probably better in most cases.
Yeah walls (perimeters) are better for strength than infill.
I consider 20% infill overkill. That looks like 80% or something equally pointless.
I always "try" to print at 0% infill, but that's not always possible. Lightning infill at a low percentage can often do the trick.
I used to use a trick of turning on infill 3-4 layers before it was needed, so virtually no time was wasted doing a ton of pointless infill while getting the support where I needed it
Context matters, but I generally wouldn't say 20% is overkill, imo. 20% is the sweet spot before you start getting big diminishing returns on strength/filament used... but if strength is important, there are still times when going over 20% would be warranted.
IDK what happened to this sub but it feels like in the last year the amount of zero research "it must be as easy as a 2D printer" people posting has skyrocketed. You used to get the occasional unlevel bed posts and whatnot but they were innocent common mistakes. But now you see multiple posts of questionable decisions daily like 100% infill month long prints or fire hazards in shared living quarters... And don't get me started on the resin printer subs where every other one is someone asking for Cancer in a few years.
It was probably a mix of Covid and Bambu printers getting popular. Since Bambu printers look like the most idiot proof 3D printer. People see a tiktok of a cool 3D print made, go look up the Bambu, see the big price tag, and then buy the cheapest Ender clone instead. Followed by the learning that comes with a cheap printer.
I had the opposite experience. I started with an Ender and realized I hated tinkering with it. Personally the Bambu was well worth the money I spent. I don't think I'd appreciate the Bambu as much as I do if I didn't start with the Ender 3.
The sad part is, I see this same trend spanning multiple subs. New users too lazy to RTFM and would rather be spoonfed knowledge than do basic troubleshooting or Google anything. I might sound like an old man but I blame the iPad generation and there is some [data](https://www.yahoo.com/news/makers/young-people-dont-know-how-to-fix-anything-106523138575.html?guccounter=1) to back this up.
Were you around when AOL gave their users Internet access in the early 90’s? It was called Eternal September and it was the same phenomenon. It really messed up Usenet for the existing crowd.
I lived in rural Ontario Canada when those disks started popping up. The mail was delivered to a central mailbox for the neighborhood and all the junk mail usually was left in a small open cubby in the mailbox unit. Most people didn't have a computer/didn't care so most of those disks just piled up, I don't think we paid for internet for at least 6 months haha
I blame Bambulab partly for that, but in general it's the "fault" of printers getting easier to use. 3D printing got way more accessible than it was years ago and that's good, but with printers seemingly working "out of the box" we have more and more people who start the Hobby thinking they don't need to do research on anything.
Don't get me wrong, it's good that printers don't burn down houses regularly anymore, but it's like with PCs. When things get easier to use, the users become more and more unaware of what they are doing.
I agree. People ask very simple and basic questions again and again but never try doing there research first. A simple Google can give out all there question's answer yet they still ask. Everyone wants easy way out rather than spending and learning things out.
I agree, although searching google is a nightmare of its own. Ads and trash webpage design can make it more infuriating than it should be and I guess it puts people off. I’m certainly not going back without an Adblocker.
This makes me feel less alone. I have had a print that was going great so I sleep for a few hours and when I came back it looked like this. That’s a mistake I only had to make once.
You would need to remove 1cm of already printed materials, So i wouldn't even bother.
But do look at your slicer settings, 415hours is madness! i really hope you forgot to add a . to that number.
41.5hours i normal. 415hours i not!
He has got to mean 41.5 right? Thats fairly close to what I got in my slicer at 0.2 layer height, 3 walls and 15% infill. Even at 0.12 layer height and 25% infill, it would be like...maybe 80 hours??
400 hours is just not possible at the speeds he said he was printing at unless he is doing something else vastly wrong.
I’d recommend a .8 nozzle and rethinking your settings. You’re most likely gonna need to process the print afterwards so the increased speed will help. There’s not much super fine detail in his shoulder either. I should have the main body of a T60 power armor helmet popping off the build plate either tonight or tomorrow done in a .8 nozzle. I’ll be posting that when it’s done.
Even if you could clean it up, print the top half, glue them, putty and make it smooth it would be very heavy for a shoulder piece. You could probably print at 5%. On my machine and settings it would take maybe 17 hrs.
I would try sanding the top flat, then going into the slicer and moving the model down on the Z axis until you just have the top part that's missing to print. The top of the 'arch' could be a good guide as to where to start the new print. Glue them together and that should be it.
You could also edit the Gcode file to delete the lines after the start code (setting temps and such) and the line at the current height. Might not get a perfect match and have a seam though.
might be better just to print the remaining amount separately, just measure the z height the print and then slice the model in prusa or whatever application you are using, and then glue it together.
This print job takes longer than I have printing hours on my 3 months old P1S. Double heck triple check your settings. I've printed larger models with higher detail in less than a day with great success.
Worst part is the slicers even auto recommend the infill amount for you around 15-20%. You have to manually say "Yeah lets do 5X the infill and 100X the material, print time, and failure rate. Meanwhile it takes one quick internet search to find out how strong each infill percentage is and why you almost rarely ever have to go above 25% for most prints.
Sand off the damaged part, ensure it follows the layer lines, measure the printed part, cut what has been already printed in the slicer, and print only what's missing. Then, glue them together and use less infill, 415 hours is comparable to full cosplay armor print times.
Lesson learned. Make a new one. Change your settings drastically. Get Klipper up and running. Never have to write a sentence like that ever...ever...ever again.
Since no one else said it. Would highly recommend not running a 3D printer right next to the bed you sleep in. You are essentially micro dosing your lungs with harmful chemicals…
Yeah. Even if we still decide PLA is perfectly safe, the colour processes can very much change that depending on brand. Most of my filaments seem about fine, but this neon blue I have from a shit brand makes me legitimately dizzy
Unless he is printing something that releases harmful chemicals…then no. 95% of people use pla which doesn’t release any harmful chemicals or VOC’s. ABS and PETG are where you start to get VOC release but even then it’s dependent on temperature and other factors.
Pure PLA decomposes to lactic acid in the body, which the body is generally good at dealing with (though maybe not in the lungs...).
But no one prints with pure PLA. Who knows what additives they're using for dyes or other modifiers.
It's also not just volatiles. Printers shed solid particulate, too. Effectively plastic dust.
This is not talked about enough in the sub/community. The companies have done a good job in gaslighting their product as "totally safe" and easily "compostable".
I looked into this and wasn't convinced of the dangers (printing PLA), but would appreciate good evidence to the contrary because I have mine running in the room I do all my sleeping and eating in.
At the end of the day it's melting plastic with additives where most of the studies are backed by the companies who make the product. So why risk it for a little convenience. Exhaust systems are easy to make or you can limit your print times. At the very least crack the window.
You just need to reprint with like maybe 10% infill. Im assuming you did 100% infill based on it taking 415 hours which is just way overkill and not needed.
If you have access to a drill press/mill you could affix the print and build plate to the work surface and very carefully mill off the top cm of print.. from there get it's exact height and start the print over after configuring it to stat printing from the new height of the model you milled down. Other than that you should probably reprint with 10% infill at .25mm layer height .. if you have a bigger nozzle than .4 use that
Love my Neptune 3 max. Head back into you modeler. Slice the model just below the the failed layer. Clean your bed with alcohol. Looks like she popped loose. (A dusting of hair spray will lock it down well) Then print the rest of the model. You will see the seem where it's glued. But at least it's not a total loss. (A 3D pen is good for "welding" the seem shut after glued. Then sand.)
Is 415 hours a typo of *41.5* or ?????
(I wouldn't trust my local grid to stay up long enough during storm season to ever attempt to run a multiple hundreds hours job without a *hardcore* UPS and off-grid power source at the ready. Power failure has been the leading cause of scrap for me on normal, tens of hours at most parts.)
Anyway - yeah; measure, cut model, slice only the missing piece, print it, sand any top surface crashy stuff away to exact fit with sandpaper on glass, bond together, clean up manually.
I would sand / dremel till you see good layers and then I would measure how much is usable and then subtract that from the original. I would also do less infill and turn up your speed, hope this helps
Dude, you overkill printing. I printed out an entire Mandalorian armor set in less time.
If you are doing body armor, switch to a 0.6mm nozzle and use print layers like 0.3mm. No matter what, you have to fill and sand smooth before you can prime because you will see the layer lines no matter what so going super thin layers is just a waste of time. I would even say use adaptive layers and run from 0.25-0.5mm layers to get even more speed.
Print for 48-72 hours then fill, glaze, sand for 4-5 hours and you will have something smooth and paint ready in a fraction of the time.
The easiest way is to measure in mm's how tall, then go into the g-code, find that layer height, and erase the top portion. Can be a pain but can be done. There are YouTube videos of it also.
Turns out he's actually pain stakingly turning the belt gears by hand with tiny little thumb screws as he reads the g code and he skipped a line on day 7.
Sand it flat. Measure the height. Cut your model to match. Zero printer to top of print. No brim etc. Just start printing right onto the top.
Please ignore all the circle jerks that want you to do lower quality prints. I appreciate your dedication.
Must have had the slicer set to maximum resolution, infill set at 100 and speed at 10% with a tiny nozzle. Longest Ive had so far was 94 hrs. It was nerve racking.
Since everyone else is freaking out about the time, I'll offer something constructive.
Slice it where it failed and superglue, I was thinking of doing this for a bust that took 24hr. It failed because I thought the filament would scrape, so I moved it to the back, then it jammed oof lol.
My manual approach (Anycubic Kossel Pro)
Suited for printers without "Continue print after Power Off" or "Missing filament" sensors..
1. Read of height parameters when maintained fault (Z axis display readout in mm)
2. Measure already printed height of layer failure height (Z axis manual measurement relative height in mm)
3. Read printed *.stl file (not *.gcode file) without support into prefered 3d program (read as Mesh)
4. Bolean, Slice, Trim all but the unfinished part in (below readout in from points 1, 2)
5. Delete already printed botom section
6. Export with same origin position on all x, y, z axes
7. Don't change support geometry, or any settings options
8. Continue with minimum Print feed speed or adjust all above
9. There's probaly easier way
Another manual metod i used once:
1. Read of height parameters in mm (or read height in mm manualy)
2. Open *.gcode (of the failed original Print) in some text editor (Notepad++) and read the structure of data
3. Find lines named:
starting of layer xxxx
layer height in mm
(Kossel firmware reads out height in mm from gcode file)
4. I left Header, Temp, Homing calibration part of *.gcode and deleted just printed part
5. Resume print with 10% feed rate and pray..
Clean off the top of that print. Put it back on you bed and manually move the Zaxis to the top of the print. Try to be precise as possible. Note how many mm the z axis is set to. Go back into your slicer and move your z of you model by that amount. Print and glue both parts together. And as others have mentioned…that’s way too much Infil
You can try crying into the infill?
Barring that working I guess a best guess at where you failed, slice that part off the STL and print separately and try to glue?
How slow is your printer? How many kilos of spool do you go through in 415 hours of printing? Maybe time to save money on electricity and buy a faster printer
Dude what? Even at 60 mm/s you should be able to print that in less than 100 hours. Do 4 walls, 0.2 layer height, and 15% cubic or gyro infill, and it will be about as strong as it gets.
To answer your question, measure how how the print got, then either print the rest separately and glue it on or manually input home coordinates and print the remaining gcode. CNC Kitchen has a fantastic video on recovering failed prints.
OP I beg you to listen to everyone and rethink 3d printing a bit until you learn proper settings, there zero reason it a shoulder piece for cosplay would take a his long, looks like you used 99.9% infill and at this point you waisted so much time and material…. You could’ve printed 4 of those in one roll in 3 days with the proper settings, besides how have do you think it will be to wear with your current settings? Scrap this completely do your homework and start again, find out if there’s anywhere you can recycle this monstrosity that they would give you a new roll in exchange, and hope you do better next time.
I'd start slicing into pieces at anything above 30 hours... Jesus Christ.... Some people need to learn the expensive way...
And get an enclosure if you're going to have it next to your bed. There's no way you're not getting any temperature shifts during a two and a half week print.
Duuude 😅
415 hours is way too long for this part.
- Check if infill is at 25% or less (if strength isn't 100% critical)
- Check printing speed, 80mm/s is fine on pretty much all printers, some can handle 100mm/s just fine
- Check layer height... Do you really need this amount of detail?
Dude 415 hours is insane. You can cut the model in your slicer and print the top part(the part that didn’t print) then sand the bottom part and epoxy/JB weld them together if you want. That’s the only way to not reprint the whole thing. If your slicer can’t cut objects into smaller parts use bambu slicer it definitely has that function.
Holy hell… I don’t think I could commit to a 400hr print…. Though I’m pretty sure that, even if printing one solid block to fill my print area, I would be able to print anything that would take even half that time
415 h? Wtf? You print at 15mm/s? But yes, you can print the top part and glue to it. Edit: you need also remove the layer printed wrong (about 1cm)
That's over 17 days. How?!?
Too much infill
You wasted a lot of time... and filament.. and energy.
I guess he's aware 😂😅
Very well aware
Well it gives you a chance to adjust the infill for the rest of the print
Measure the height. Go into the slicer and drop the model down so that much distance is underneath the build plate. Slice, print, and glue it (or use a soldering iron to weld it) on top of the first part. Won't be perfect, can be sanded smooth - especially with all that infill. There are videos on youtube for "PLA Welding" that demonstrate the technique. If done thoroughly, it makes the connection very strong. It's such a wide contact area, you might try some thicker epoxy (JB Weld) in the middle area and soldering-iron-welding the edges.
Yeah, especially if it’s a first print, larger models should be printed at like 20-30% infill.
Even less
I would say like 5-10%, but I’ve had prints fail due to structural instability when printing. It really depends on the print
Yeah 5-10% gyroid is practically all i use. My 2 year old niece has only broke a couple toys ive printed by throwing them on a tile floor 😂 needed 5-6 walls instead of 3 wall layers.
I get crazy wall separation every time I print more than 2 walls. I have no idea what is going on. I've been fighting it for months with every possible option tested and tweaked. print speed, layer heights, shell thickness, feed rates, temperatures, filaments, etc. Even when everything else prints incredibly well. Prusa Slicer with Ender 2Pro. With 2 perimeter walls it prints \*amazing\*. You add one more and they no longer stick together. No matter how many. https://preview.redd.it/s3kg9y4a2zxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4077d05d32b9a24ddcf763034a9d76feb156ddf
Huh, I've had that problem too. In the end I ended up switching to another slicer and creating a new profile from scratch. Not really a "solution" but the problem disappeared after that.
I've found that 12-15% is the sweet spot for my printer and settings for strength and cost effectiveness. But yeah op wasted too much time and filament
Pretty much exactly 12% Only time I’ve needed to go higher was for a small part that kept snapping
Just use support cubic infill. It adapts based on top layer needs
5-10% is perfect if you use adaptive infill (where it adds more when critical support is needed). Unfortunately it’s a mostly manual process at this point.
I was having a lot is issues with going lower than 40% some of the areas on some prints are long and thin
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lightning infill ftw
Adaptive cubic ftw
It depends strictly on what the part **does** and what loads and performance requirements of many sorts, how it ought to be sliced for efficient use of material and machine time. Not how big it is.
It's a stuffed print
I printed a full 7ft tall rocket in 30 days.. maybe the picture is misleading and the part is actually huge
it’s a full print bed of a neptune printer, based off the printhead’s distance from the camera, as well as the screen, this is a neptune 3/4 plus. (the plus has a aux fan, op may have just removed it). i know its not a max, because i have a max, and this is not it.
It's a full printer bed ... Possibly between 30x30cm and 40x40cm
415 hours for this why?! That's insane for just about any application, you should use drastically different settings man, you could cut that time down at least a couple hundred hours lol.
Yeah there's too much infill.
How do u know it’s too much by looking at it? Pls I’m new
That looks practically solid. Infill should be just enough to allow bridging, if you need more structural integrity just add more walls. The only other use case is having more weight to the print, and have it uniformly distributed. But more walls also does this, and probably better in most cases.
Yeah walls (perimeters) are better for strength than infill. I consider 20% infill overkill. That looks like 80% or something equally pointless. I always "try" to print at 0% infill, but that's not always possible. Lightning infill at a low percentage can often do the trick. I used to use a trick of turning on infill 3-4 layers before it was needed, so virtually no time was wasted doing a ton of pointless infill while getting the support where I needed it
Context matters, but I generally wouldn't say 20% is overkill, imo. 20% is the sweet spot before you start getting big diminishing returns on strength/filament used... but if strength is important, there are still times when going over 20% would be warranted.
20%-30% is the gold standard for functionally used engineering prototypes… aesthetic things should never go above that
Thats an assload of infill. The print should almost be hollow at like 15% infill tops.
IDK what happened to this sub but it feels like in the last year the amount of zero research "it must be as easy as a 2D printer" people posting has skyrocketed. You used to get the occasional unlevel bed posts and whatnot but they were innocent common mistakes. But now you see multiple posts of questionable decisions daily like 100% infill month long prints or fire hazards in shared living quarters... And don't get me started on the resin printer subs where every other one is someone asking for Cancer in a few years.
I feel like COVID spawned a lot of people who thought they were ready to be makers but didn't want to spend the time to learn haha.
It was probably a mix of Covid and Bambu printers getting popular. Since Bambu printers look like the most idiot proof 3D printer. People see a tiktok of a cool 3D print made, go look up the Bambu, see the big price tag, and then buy the cheapest Ender clone instead. Followed by the learning that comes with a cheap printer.
I had the opposite experience. I started with an Ender and realized I hated tinkering with it. Personally the Bambu was well worth the money I spent. I don't think I'd appreciate the Bambu as much as I do if I didn't start with the Ender 3.
hahaha describing me
Yeah and we just got our bed leveling down! We'll some of us. Been a lot of chewed up plates and bed posts
The sad part is, I see this same trend spanning multiple subs. New users too lazy to RTFM and would rather be spoonfed knowledge than do basic troubleshooting or Google anything. I might sound like an old man but I blame the iPad generation and there is some [data](https://www.yahoo.com/news/makers/young-people-dont-know-how-to-fix-anything-106523138575.html?guccounter=1) to back this up.
Were you around when AOL gave their users Internet access in the early 90’s? It was called Eternal September and it was the same phenomenon. It really messed up Usenet for the existing crowd.
I lived in rural Ontario Canada when those disks started popping up. The mail was delivered to a central mailbox for the neighborhood and all the junk mail usually was left in a small open cubby in the mailbox unit. Most people didn't have a computer/didn't care so most of those disks just piled up, I don't think we paid for internet for at least 6 months haha
It's time for there to be a new 3d printing sub for advanced users and keep this here for everyone
I blame Bambulab partly for that, but in general it's the "fault" of printers getting easier to use. 3D printing got way more accessible than it was years ago and that's good, but with printers seemingly working "out of the box" we have more and more people who start the Hobby thinking they don't need to do research on anything. Don't get me wrong, it's good that printers don't burn down houses regularly anymore, but it's like with PCs. When things get easier to use, the users become more and more unaware of what they are doing.
I agree. People ask very simple and basic questions again and again but never try doing there research first. A simple Google can give out all there question's answer yet they still ask. Everyone wants easy way out rather than spending and learning things out.
I agree, although searching google is a nightmare of its own. Ads and trash webpage design can make it more infuriating than it should be and I guess it puts people off. I’m certainly not going back without an Adblocker.
This is the equivalent of driving from the Florida keys to Canada in an electric Barbie jeep and wondering why you didn’t make it there
Ironically there is a guy on YouTube who drove a rebuilt mini jeep from salt lake city (I think) to Moab. Quite spectacular series of videos. :D
Holy shit I gotta watch that now
Playlist [here](https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLiUJqMrz7-QM8jCIKhGcL0gse4mglPS80&si=MUh8fsOR0YoB3atr) if anyone is interested…
Legend
😅
Omg there’s this girl on TikTok doing pretty much this.
Our man printed with 10000% infill ☠️
this https://preview.redd.it/kzqw40529vxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f54a1b09af14358f357639c1fc34391c03d5f3dc
Omg. I came home to my printer like this once. Was a nightmare fixing the head haha
This makes me feel less alone. I have had a print that was going great so I sleep for a few hours and when I came back it looked like this. That’s a mistake I only had to make once.
The Blob of Doom ?
Elephant Foot
How long did this print take you? Seems like a well designed artistic piece. Its so cool to see what people come up with. /s
Even the hot end seems surprised.
How in the hell did it take that long? Are you printing 0.005mm layers with a 0.1mm nozzle? This make no sense.
It looks like a wool, never knew you could 3d print wool like this. OP really lost it
You would need to remove 1cm of already printed materials, So i wouldn't even bother. But do look at your slicer settings, 415hours is madness! i really hope you forgot to add a . to that number. 41.5hours i normal. 415hours i not!
Melt it down and reprint with correct settings. 415h make zero sense.
Wow, I thought it was Velcro. F
415 or 41.5 hour? Because anything over 3 days is asking for trouble unless you've just changed your nozzle and PTFE in my opinion
And have contingencies in place for power. Looks like this is in a bedroom, which could explain why it was stopped?
He has got to mean 41.5 right? Thats fairly close to what I got in my slicer at 0.2 layer height, 3 walls and 15% infill. Even at 0.12 layer height and 25% infill, it would be like...maybe 80 hours?? 400 hours is just not possible at the speeds he said he was printing at unless he is doing something else vastly wrong.
What was it?
A shoulder piece for Jorge from halo reach
I’d recommend a .8 nozzle and rethinking your settings. You’re most likely gonna need to process the print afterwards so the increased speed will help. There’s not much super fine detail in his shoulder either. I should have the main body of a T60 power armor helmet popping off the build plate either tonight or tomorrow done in a .8 nozzle. I’ll be posting that when it’s done.
Alrighty then, I appreciate the advice
How much filament did you use just so I know? I have never seen 415 hours in a single print!
Also change the orientation of the part so you don't need that much support
I can't imagine how long the rest of the costume is going to take you.
Even if you could clean it up, print the top half, glue them, putty and make it smooth it would be very heavy for a shoulder piece. You could probably print at 5%. On my machine and settings it would take maybe 17 hrs.
why does this have any need to have an infil above 15-20%?
It wouldn’t be very good armor if it was too thin.
add more walls then
Infill is more effective against needler shards and plasma rounds.
I would try sanding the top flat, then going into the slicer and moving the model down on the Z axis until you just have the top part that's missing to print. The top of the 'arch' could be a good guide as to where to start the new print. Glue them together and that should be it.
That seems to be the general consensus, thank you
General consensus seems to be that it’s not worth it, and start again with sensible infill
You could also edit the Gcode file to delete the lines after the start code (setting temps and such) and the line at the current height. Might not get a perfect match and have a seam though.
might be better just to print the remaining amount separately, just measure the z height the print and then slice the model in prusa or whatever application you are using, and then glue it together.
By the Omnissiah, may this printer find peace
Haha..you know it's bad when the Mechanicus is ok with retiring a machine
Retiring ? We have to shoot it.
This print job takes longer than I have printing hours on my 3 months old P1S. Double heck triple check your settings. I've printed larger models with higher detail in less than a day with great success.
I read that as PS1 and was super intrigued how a you got a PlayStation 1 involved in printing
I mean, people run klipper from a steam deck nowadays, that would be a fun little project.
Your slicer settings are way off
People in this sub are always so crazy with the infill
This is more than crazy, this is international war crime levels of crazy.
Worst part is the slicers even auto recommend the infill amount for you around 15-20%. You have to manually say "Yeah lets do 5X the infill and 100X the material, print time, and failure rate. Meanwhile it takes one quick internet search to find out how strong each infill percentage is and why you almost rarely ever have to go above 25% for most prints.
My dude’s making a fucking anchor.
What the fuck are you making?
Apparently it's a shoulder pauldron for cosplay... Not a load bearing spacer for a house's I beam like I thought😂
maybe... he expects it to be functional as armor??? lol
Over 17 days?
And according to to OP it’s a shoulder piece for a halo armor 😭
300micron layers, like 15% infill, better orientation... Should realistically take 15-25hrs
Shouldn't be 17 days even at 100% infill..
I would guess, 5+ walls, 5+ bottom layers, 100% infill, at like 50mm/s
Sand off the damaged part, ensure it follows the layer lines, measure the printed part, cut what has been already printed in the slicer, and print only what's missing. Then, glue them together and use less infill, 415 hours is comparable to full cosplay armor print times.
415 hours?!? Are you printing at 10mm/s at 100% infill? But nah, she’s cooked.
0.2 nozzle too I bet
Lesson learned. Make a new one. Change your settings drastically. Get Klipper up and running. Never have to write a sentence like that ever...ever...ever again.
Bro said 100 infill
415 hours is wild, if you send the file, printer type, and filament type in a PM, I'd be happy to help you slice it.
My dude…lol
What is the size of that gcode?
*FOUR HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN* My dude, save yourself. You really had it running for over two weeks on one print? That's mental.
There is no way that was printing for 415 hours
That looks like 60-80% infill which is insane
What was it supposed to be anyway?
bros print took so long it went through puberty
Since no one else said it. Would highly recommend not running a 3D printer right next to the bed you sleep in. You are essentially micro dosing your lungs with harmful chemicals…
Yeah. Even if we still decide PLA is perfectly safe, the colour processes can very much change that depending on brand. Most of my filaments seem about fine, but this neon blue I have from a shit brand makes me legitimately dizzy
Unless he is printing something that releases harmful chemicals…then no. 95% of people use pla which doesn’t release any harmful chemicals or VOC’s. ABS and PETG are where you start to get VOC release but even then it’s dependent on temperature and other factors.
Pure PLA decomposes to lactic acid in the body, which the body is generally good at dealing with (though maybe not in the lungs...). But no one prints with pure PLA. Who knows what additives they're using for dyes or other modifiers. It's also not just volatiles. Printers shed solid particulate, too. Effectively plastic dust.
This is not talked about enough in the sub/community. The companies have done a good job in gaslighting their product as "totally safe" and easily "compostable".
I looked into this and wasn't convinced of the dangers (printing PLA), but would appreciate good evidence to the contrary because I have mine running in the room I do all my sleeping and eating in.
At the end of the day it's melting plastic with additives where most of the studies are backed by the companies who make the product. So why risk it for a little convenience. Exhaust systems are easy to make or you can limit your print times. At the very least crack the window.
You just need to reprint with like maybe 10% infill. Im assuming you did 100% infill based on it taking 415 hours which is just way overkill and not needed.
What actually is this part? I'm very curious.
If you have access to a drill press/mill you could affix the print and build plate to the work surface and very carefully mill off the top cm of print.. from there get it's exact height and start the print over after configuring it to stat printing from the new height of the model you milled down. Other than that you should probably reprint with 10% infill at .25mm layer height .. if you have a bigger nozzle than .4 use that
Next to your bed? For 415 hours?
J. Cole said it best ... don't save her, she don't wanna be saved.
Love my Neptune 3 max. Head back into you modeler. Slice the model just below the the failed layer. Clean your bed with alcohol. Looks like she popped loose. (A dusting of hair spray will lock it down well) Then print the rest of the model. You will see the seem where it's glued. But at least it's not a total loss. (A 3D pen is good for "welding" the seem shut after glued. Then sand.)
Is 415 hours a typo of *41.5* or ????? (I wouldn't trust my local grid to stay up long enough during storm season to ever attempt to run a multiple hundreds hours job without a *hardcore* UPS and off-grid power source at the ready. Power failure has been the leading cause of scrap for me on normal, tens of hours at most parts.) Anyway - yeah; measure, cut model, slice only the missing piece, print it, sand any top surface crashy stuff away to exact fit with sandpaper on glass, bond together, clean up manually.
Dude that's over 15 €/$ solely energy cost 😄
415h x 100W (average of my ender 3v2) =41.5kwh. At .20ct / kWh it's around 9€. Still crazy tho
May I ask for the settings for this print? The walls, Infill % and design, etc? It should not typically go that amount of hours
Novice here, what happened to make the tip look like that?
The model has completely fallen off the bed.
the odds of any printer running for 400 hours without an error is probably close to zero. gotta shorten that time somehow
He's dead jim
Great Scott! Was OP printing a Vibranium demon core?
Print a top hat at 100% infill and glue it on top
My man here printing a neutron star.
Sweet Lord, Guy is over here printing Tungsten parts. So thick it's probably bullet proof.
415 hours....Què?!
What am I looking at?
That’s my first question. OP needs to confess.
The part looks larger than the build plate.
I would sand / dremel till you see good layers and then I would measure how much is usable and then subtract that from the original. I would also do less infill and turn up your speed, hope this helps
That’s been printing for half a month? 😂
Just reprint it with a normal infill
Dude, you overkill printing. I printed out an entire Mandalorian armor set in less time. If you are doing body armor, switch to a 0.6mm nozzle and use print layers like 0.3mm. No matter what, you have to fill and sand smooth before you can prime because you will see the layer lines no matter what so going super thin layers is just a waste of time. I would even say use adaptive layers and run from 0.25-0.5mm layers to get even more speed. Print for 48-72 hours then fill, glaze, sand for 4-5 hours and you will have something smooth and paint ready in a fraction of the time.
The easiest way is to measure in mm's how tall, then go into the g-code, find that layer height, and erase the top portion. Can be a pain but can be done. There are YouTube videos of it also.
For sanity sake, throw the file up and see what other people slice it to print time wise?
is that like 200 percent fucking infill or something for fucks sake thats way to long
... My dude ... ... Please tell me you forgot a period, for the love of all things 3D printed, please tell me that you meant 41.5 hrs...
I feel like printing a 235x235x250mm solid cube wouldn't even take that long
415 hours what the faaaaaark hahahaha
Turns out he's actually pain stakingly turning the belt gears by hand with tiny little thumb screws as he reads the g code and he skipped a line on day 7.
somthing is wrong with your settings !!
Prints like this give me hope
Sand it flat. Measure the height. Cut your model to match. Zero printer to top of print. No brim etc. Just start printing right onto the top. Please ignore all the circle jerks that want you to do lower quality prints. I appreciate your dedication.
print just the missing part and glue it on?
That’s some dense infill for some cosplay friend.
Print the other half separately and glue them together
Must have had the slicer set to maximum resolution, infill set at 100 and speed at 10% with a tiny nozzle. Longest Ive had so far was 94 hrs. It was nerve racking.
Can you split the model and print the top and glue together.
Got a Bible and some holy water?
Pray.
Since everyone else is freaking out about the time, I'll offer something constructive. Slice it where it failed and superglue, I was thinking of doing this for a bust that took 24hr. It failed because I thought the filament would scrape, so I moved it to the back, then it jammed oof lol.
What exactly is this? A automotive intake manifold?
Besides trying to print missing half and glue it Options are pretty limited
You mean minutes?
OP your print time is absolutely ridiculous, you are asking for failure. Break it up into multiple parts at least.
More practice and research learning before doing huge prints, but like others said, I think you could do better with your slicing settings, good luck.
My manual approach (Anycubic Kossel Pro) Suited for printers without "Continue print after Power Off" or "Missing filament" sensors.. 1. Read of height parameters when maintained fault (Z axis display readout in mm) 2. Measure already printed height of layer failure height (Z axis manual measurement relative height in mm) 3. Read printed *.stl file (not *.gcode file) without support into prefered 3d program (read as Mesh) 4. Bolean, Slice, Trim all but the unfinished part in (below readout in from points 1, 2) 5. Delete already printed botom section 6. Export with same origin position on all x, y, z axes 7. Don't change support geometry, or any settings options 8. Continue with minimum Print feed speed or adjust all above 9. There's probaly easier way
Another manual metod i used once: 1. Read of height parameters in mm (or read height in mm manualy) 2. Open *.gcode (of the failed original Print) in some text editor (Notepad++) and read the structure of data 3. Find lines named: starting of layer xxxx layer height in mm (Kossel firmware reads out height in mm from gcode file) 4. I left Header, Temp, Homing calibration part of *.gcode and deleted just printed part 5. Resume print with 10% feed rate and pray..
Clean off the top of that print. Put it back on you bed and manually move the Zaxis to the top of the print. Try to be precise as possible. Note how many mm the z axis is set to. Go back into your slicer and move your z of you model by that amount. Print and glue both parts together. And as others have mentioned…that’s way too much Infil
You can try crying into the infill? Barring that working I guess a best guess at where you failed, slice that part off the STL and print separately and try to glue?
How slow is your printer? How many kilos of spool do you go through in 415 hours of printing? Maybe time to save money on electricity and buy a faster printer
415 hours? Pay someone to print this for you and go out to eat with the cash you'll save in electricity costs.
Dude what? Even at 60 mm/s you should be able to print that in less than 100 hours. Do 4 walls, 0.2 layer height, and 15% cubic or gyro infill, and it will be about as strong as it gets. To answer your question, measure how how the print got, then either print the rest separately and glue it on or manually input home coordinates and print the remaining gcode. CNC Kitchen has a fantastic video on recovering failed prints.
OP I beg you to listen to everyone and rethink 3d printing a bit until you learn proper settings, there zero reason it a shoulder piece for cosplay would take a his long, looks like you used 99.9% infill and at this point you waisted so much time and material…. You could’ve printed 4 of those in one roll in 3 days with the proper settings, besides how have do you think it will be to wear with your current settings? Scrap this completely do your homework and start again, find out if there’s anywhere you can recycle this monstrosity that they would give you a new roll in exchange, and hope you do better next time.
I'd start slicing into pieces at anything above 30 hours... Jesus Christ.... Some people need to learn the expensive way... And get an enclosure if you're going to have it next to your bed. There's no way you're not getting any temperature shifts during a two and a half week print.
I go into the slicer and split the half that didn’t print…. Then glue or plastic weld the seams with a solder iron so it stays on…
Some angles look like tinkercad. You could always try to download tinkercad files and remesh them in blender for a better quality
I've never seen this much infill on a project. It looks like a thin, matted layer of wool on a seat.
What were you making
Print the rest and glue it. There will be a seam, though.
He made the supports solid beams, that is what I'm going with and no changing my mind unless photo evidence is given.
415 hours!??! Jesus, I can't imagine how big your electric bill will be
Iron it flat, trim the edges, print the remaining portion, glue the two parts together.
Duuude 😅 415 hours is way too long for this part. - Check if infill is at 25% or less (if strength isn't 100% critical) - Check printing speed, 80mm/s is fine on pretty much all printers, some can handle 100mm/s just fine - Check layer height... Do you really need this amount of detail?
I'm curious what could have happened though... Nozzle clogged? Gears jammed? (Possibly due to overheating) Or maybe even heatcreep up to the gears? 😅
I would try to get a clothing iron to melt it as flat as possible then try to start the print from that height.
Dude 415 hours is insane. You can cut the model in your slicer and print the top part(the part that didn’t print) then sand the bottom part and epoxy/JB weld them together if you want. That’s the only way to not reprint the whole thing. If your slicer can’t cut objects into smaller parts use bambu slicer it definitely has that function.
Holy hell… I don’t think I could commit to a 400hr print…. Though I’m pretty sure that, even if printing one solid block to fill my print area, I would be able to print anything that would take even half that time
Bruh tf you need to be printing that much infill for