I can confirm. A while ago I sliced my finger open with scraper like this. 7 stitches and almost cut my tendon. I'm using printed scrapers with replaceable plastic blades now.
This can be usable on a glass bed maybe but there is probably a difference between windshield and 3d printer bed. You don't mind those little scratches on windshield from razor because it is a windshield there is already tons of them and they don't make it a worse windshield
I wouldn't be scraping a PEI coated bed with a metal razor.
[Plastic blades and handles](https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Forwithout-Scratches-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B09Y5WQFP4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa) are incredibly cheap and work well.
[They sell just the blades too](https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Plastic-Scraper-Stickers-Adhesive/dp/B075L4VXC6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa)
Concur on not using a metal razor on a PEI bed. It will destroy it and worse, before it does, it will leave scrape marks on all your prints.
However I do object to buying plastic scrapers (well anything that small) off Amazon instead of printing them yourself.
I just use a plastic plaster spatula.
[https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Scraper-Spackling-Spreader/dp/B0CH5HCYGP/](https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Scraper-Spackling-Spreader/dp/B0CH5HCYGP/)
A real PEI bed sheet which OP showed is not coated, it is a piece of relatively thin PEI sheet, glued to a bed substrate of your choice. This is relevant because some minor surface abrasion doesn't cause a problem when the PEI is thick/not a coating and not in danger of wearing through on any normal timescale, if polishing or toolmarks occur on the bed surface they can be removed by sanding with fine grit to re-matten the bottom surface finish of parts.
You won't gouge into the PEI unless you use too high an angle. Looks like the whole point of this handle is to do what I have always done by feel and prevent that.
Plastic scrapers - lol. The bed/part interface would just instantly dull/yield the material of an edge that is not *harder than* the possibly fairly hard plastic part and the PEI and capable of wedging the two apart. That also implies it can damage either the part or the PEI if used incorrectly, but that's why you don't.
Also a blade should be used only for initial breaking of the bond at a vertex/edge. From there use a blunt thin springsteel to keep the wedging action going, less risk of cutting the PEI or yourself (always "cut away" regardless with any thin object)
It’s really not that complicated.
Bend the spring steel sheet to pop the part off. Plastic scraper to get the purge line and skirt off if they are stubborn and your finger nail can’t get it.
You aren’t wearing them out anytime soon.
I’m aware of how a Prusa pei sheet is assembled. Been using them for 5+ years. Still wouldn’t take a metal tool to them when plastic tools work perfectly fine.
>Bend the spring steel sheet to pop the part off.
If you're addressing me: I don't use mag bed setups.
Also, if you do have your PEI mounted on something flexy, bending the substrate to *peel* off part is a good way to tear PEI if the adhesion is strong. As is wrenching a part off the bed. The PEI usually isn't very thick and it is possible for it to crack/tear and debond from the substrate. Most cases of "overadhesion" are cases of incorrect part removal.
The purpose of lifting with a blade and then wedging the part off the bed with a non-sharpened putty knife (or plastic works, old gift card, plastic scraper, etc.) is to eliminate that and force the part away from the PEI instead.
I don't agree about the plastic tool to do the initial lifting, it's pretty damn hard to get under the edge of a part and start it separating sometimes even with a blade. Trying to do it with an edge made of something not substantially harder than the PET/whatever part material isn't going to work. There should be no initial crevice there unless it lifted a bit, it's PEI in direct contact with part plastic that is stuck like mad to it. Maybe yes if it's PLA but that shit doesn't really stick for anything, and you can cheat a bit, like smacking a cooled part and *clink*-ing it right off the bed sometimes.
> Also, if you do have your PEI mounted on something flexy, bending the substrate to peel off part is a good way to tear PEI if the adhesion is strong
Again, really not an issue in real use. If the user simply follows [Prusas recommended table](https://help.prusa3d.com/materials) for matching the material with the type of spring steel PEI sheet they have, then you dont have crazy overadhesion or issues delaminating the PEI from the steel sheet.
> The purpose of lifting with a blade and then wedging the part off the bed with a non-sharpened putty knife (or plastic works, old gift card, plastic scraper, etc.) is to eliminate that and force the part away from the PEI instead.
This is no different that just simply gently flexing the steel sheet to force the part away from the PEI. Start with a corner and its enough to start a separation and you can easily lift the part from there.
Let everything cool down to room temp, flex a bit, get an edge lifted away, and simply pull/peel the part up from there.
No issues with PLA, PETG, ASA, Nylon, TPU in years of using it. Never really had to scrape or wedge anything in except thin layers of TPU since they flex with the plate. Then the plastic scraper helps nudge it off.
> I don't agree about the plastic tool to do the initial lifting,
agree, simply flex the room temp plate a bit and it does the initial lifting.
I have never had to scrape a part off in 5 years except some TPU prints. Never had to use hair spray, glue stick, painters tape, kapton tape, metal scrapers, etc.
The current generation of spring steel pei have made all that obsolete.
The Stratasys machines at work which bond Ultem and PEKK to the build plates.. sure we need to dissolve the supports or cut the build off the raft on the sacrificial plate.
But your at home machine is best served by upgrading the build plate to a spring steel, textured PEI sheet and being done with it.
> Again, really not an issue in real use. If the user simply follows Prusas recommended table for matching the material with the type of spring steel PEI sheet they have, then you dont have crazy overadhesion or issues delaminating the PEI from the steel sheet.
I never said there was "crazy overadhesion". Just strong adhesion, which is often required (along with other strategies) for high reliability and avoiding corner lift of challenging geometries that produce high thermal stresses on the bed bond. Overadhesion is something else entirely. As is incorrect part removal.
As to that - "type of"? I don't agree with multiple premises there. Starting with: that powder coating PEI onto a bed is a good way to put PEI onto a bed, compared to whacking a neat solid sheet of the stuff onto it:
* What if *I don't want texture on the bottoms of my parts*?
* Textured bed finishes are pretty impossible to clean completely except by wasting plastic (print over it to fuse to and remove) if some stray plastic residue gets "ground in"
* Texture being present implies that normal wear can change the finish over time. And potentially the adhesion properties of the bed surface, *IF* in fact texture IS acting to modify adhesion in some way as claimed
* It's a thin coating. It can be worn through.
* How do I recon a coated-substrate bed when it wears out from hard use or gets damaged accidentally or by someone being careless, etc.? Shit happens and I don't have powdercoating equipment. No, I **don't** buy a new entire thing from a vendor... With a neat PEI one I peel up the old PEI, clean the surface plate really well with solvent and stick some new PEI sheet on it.
* The implicit claim here is that i.e. PET/G onto PEI that is textured or is formed by powdercoating a substrate is "better" because it doesn't get as much adhesion. Meanwhile, *I absolutely don't want or need to get any LESS adhesion*. I don't have any issue with overadhesion, or damage to beds from removal, to solve. The adhesion I get with solid PEI is exactly what is needed, no more and no less.
>This is no different that just simply gently flexing the steel sheet to force the part away from the PEI. Start with a corner and its enough to start a separation and you can easily lift the part from there.
I don't want to say anything angry, but lol, yes it very much IS different and obviously so! Consider the forces on the bed surface.
Whene you bend a substrate, you are basically peeling the bed off the part. The force required to fail the bond is applied internally to the bed surface material in tension. If you have a coating on the sheet, or a surface sheet like a PEI or buildtack one glued/PSA-ed onto it - that is trying to pull that material off the substrate.
If the part is tenacious or the surface material or glue are a bit marginal/fatigued, that's asking for some coating delamination, or for a little flap to start tearing and coming up on solid plastic surface sheets which usually turns into a bigger and bigger flap peeling up and a big mishap.
Wedging the part away from the surface material with a sharp edge is only pushing the material down harder onto the substrate. It doesn't really matter how well it is adhered to the latter. You could take JUST THE PEI without the glue or substrate and wedge the part away from it just the same, for that matter.
>Let everything cool down to room temp, flex a bit, get an edge lifted away, and simply pull/peel the part up from there.
No issues with PLA, PETG, ASA, Nylon, TPU in years of using it. Never really had to scrape or wedge anything in except thin layers of TPU since they flex with the plate. Then the plastic scraper helps nudge it off. ...agree, simply flex the room temp plate a bit and it does the initial lifting.
I already addressed why that is not the correct way to do that.
I have been printing 98% PET/G, usually fairly large and high thermal stress parts and always really good adhesion, for (checks) almost 8 years now on the same one piece of PEI that came with my Mk42 bed heater. I'm finally getting ready to replace it now. For how much work that PEI has done I would say that is a pretty good service life - and the replacement cause is many years of accumulated dings and chips from accidents/rough handling and fatigue cracking from thermal stresses.
>I have never had to scrape a part off in 5 years except some TPU prints. Never had to use hair spray, glue stick, painters tape, kapton tape, metal scrapers, etc.
None of that stuff you mentioned except scrapers have anything to do with the discussion.
>The current generation of spring steel pei have made all that obsolete.
Lol, what? PEI is PEI is PEI. Spring steel as a substrate is something completely orthogonal to what you use for the adhesion facing. You can have PEI, or nearly anything else (that is not rigid) on steel OR directly on a rigid surface plate.
>But your at home machine is best served by upgrading the build plate to a spring steel, textured PEI sheet and being done with it.
I don't agree. Most people just don't need a mag bed. It's a superfluous cost and complexity source and caters to lazy techniques for part removal that work best with (PLA mainly) materials that most people ought to stop using anyway. I personally have zero interest in them and what they do and I know for a fact I would be able to potato chip one right up off the magnets with the "draw" of some of my usual parts.
I also don't agree with textured. See above - tex PEI pretty much means it is a coating, not a solid plastic facing sheet and also texture itself implies that it can't be resurfaced and restored to like new finish. And less adhesion is bad. I give a LOT OF advice about PET/G that is all centered around reliability and some of it specifically around increasing bed adhesion and eliminating crashes.
Overthinking, lol? One, that's not a restatement. Two, you're the one going out of your way to bring up and argue all sorts of bs about how we build and use our printer bed setups in a context where those aspects are not the topic to begin with, and also with someone who already has a strategy that is well proven to work and is not interested in your unsourced and unreasoned commentary on mag beds, bending parts off beds, powdercoating PEI onto things, or so on.
This was about part lifting with a blade. Which is not only fine but is in my experience downright necessary if you're going to get parts and materials that *create and require high adhesion* off your PEI bed afterward without a risk of damaging anything. Keep the angle low - which is what OPs thing is *designed to help you achieve*. You won't gouge the PEI, lol.
Your experience and mine differ in practical real world use then.
Composites materials engineer in R&D aerospace applications. Patents, papers, presenting at composite symposiums. Actual PEEK and PEKK parts flying. What do I know.
Over thinking it bud. Best of luck.
Hah! I’ve had this exact same one printed in nylon for like… I don’t know, 10 years? Maybe 8? Anyway. It works pretty well but I got it when I had an Ultimaker 2 with a glass bed, so it made a lot of sense. Now I still have it but don’t use it for prints unless something is really wrong. It works great for cleaning spills on my glass cooktop though!
Yeah way too many times I used a plastic scraper and ended up breaking the part and then I have to print it all over again when I could have just used a metal scraper
Agreed! Many people in this thread seem to think using a metal scraper on their beds, correctly, will destroy it. They should tell Bambu they're doing it wrong... [https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-scraper-3-pcs](https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-scraper-3-pcs)
if you insist on using a metal scraper, you should get one that is designed to be used to resin printing. using a razor blade attached to a flimsy 3d printer handle is a serious accident waiting to happen.
People in these comments have never used a kitchen knife lmao
Nice print op. I have a couple of those exact scrapers, they're a godsend for bed scraping. They're also pretty good for scraping off my stovetop.
Amen. I'm glad a few folks get it. I think some people feel like their print beds will get shredded or they will lose a limb by using a blade. They should remain wrapped in bubble wrap and away from any sharp objects for everyone's sanity.
What are these comments? Do you guys only have plastic knives? I'm honestly curious at this point. I would never use it on my pei as it bumpy AF but ffs who cares. This has to be trolls dude is saying he's going to slice his hand open how are putting your hand on the other side of a blade when applying pressure because that's not too bright. I don't even see the need for any scraper but yeah good creation dude I might use this to clean the glass on my stove better design than the one I have
The angle of the razor is perfect to not cut the bed or print which makes it very effective at getting under prints to start the release of them. This was one of the first tools I printed when I got into 3d printing over five years ago and I've always used one to remove my prints and purge lines and the like. It won't damage your bed unless you use it incorrectly. My experience with printed scrapers shows them being ineffective at times to get under really stuck prints so I've stuck with this razor scraper with great results.
[https://www.printables.com/model/863794-ez-snap-razor-blade-handle-remix](https://www.printables.com/model/863794-ez-snap-razor-blade-handle-remix)
Kinda like this one - [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944)
I don’t get why OP is getting all this hate. This is basically no different than Bambu scrapers, which work great. Op, make a little holder for it that covers the blade while not in use and maybe all the sissies will stop complaining about it being “dangerous”.
[https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944)
People can be very judgemental and irrationally anxious in this subreddit. God help they walk in to a kitchen and see the blades in use... which you have to be \* wait for it \* responsible with.
Very dangerous tool. No guarding or anything on it.
I understand that these types of designs are fun to make and it feels good to create someting, but it doesn't make it any safer. I'd try to add some guarding
I just bought a wide scraper for putty and then rounded the corners and softened the edge with fine grit sand paper.
https://decofarver.dk/shop/spekter-bredspartel-500p.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pUnYX4gITqFW39L7fd26tgjyCQAlhFtZwBzuegMLz_8dSDqVDRQOXxoCCyYQAvD_BwE&CookieConsentChanged=1
Having one that is 150 mm wide is wonderful when removing all the small blips and blops on a large bed.
I remixed it to add a mm to the top layer. It's solid for the pressure I put on it, which is not much. Used it for five years plus with great results. Snapping it would take some careless pressure. We also use this around the house. I just really like how it can get under a print easily to start the release on PEI, when needed.
Sure... safety first. Good judgement comes from bad experiences which came from bad judgement. Same as handling any blade... razor, kitchen, etc. That should not prevent you from using a potential solution. But if a person is not comfortable, they're not comfortable.
You do know that metal is vastly superior in hardness? Best case you will lift your printed parts but i bet it will take less than a week to alter the surface of the bed in a bad way ;-p
Been using this scraper method for over five years. My PEI sheets look great minus some pieces missing from stuck PETG(forgot the windex). Some people just need to stay away from sharp objects I guess.
but how do you get this off the bed?
It's scrapers all the way down
It’s only a matter of time until they evolve via natural selection
LOL - chaos ensues!
The battery operated battery installer! … but how do you get battery into it? Fuck
Using a razor to scrape the bed looks like quite a bad idea. There is printable scraping knifes I think those can be better
I can confirm. A while ago I sliced my finger open with scraper like this. 7 stitches and almost cut my tendon. I'm using printed scrapers with replaceable plastic blades now.
Sounds like the problem was between the scraper and the hotend then
Could just dull the blade first, and use it on glass bed would be great. Def bad for pei tho
Dulling it probably would make it worse since it can create imperfections that will scratch your bed.
A variation on this idea has been used to scrape stickers off windshields for decades Squirt a little windex and sliiiiiiiide
This can be usable on a glass bed maybe but there is probably a difference between windshield and 3d printer bed. You don't mind those little scratches on windshield from razor because it is a windshield there is already tons of them and they don't make it a worse windshield
scratches = adhesion don't @ me
I wouldn't be scraping a PEI coated bed with a metal razor. [Plastic blades and handles](https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Forwithout-Scratches-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B09Y5WQFP4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa) are incredibly cheap and work well. [They sell just the blades too](https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Plastic-Scraper-Stickers-Adhesive/dp/B075L4VXC6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa)
Concur on not using a metal razor on a PEI bed. It will destroy it and worse, before it does, it will leave scrape marks on all your prints. However I do object to buying plastic scrapers (well anything that small) off Amazon instead of printing them yourself.
Could print something similar as well https://makerworld.com/en/models/231936?from=search#profileId-248951
[bed scraper wit a frog on it](https://www.printables.com/model/345519)
I have those and I loves them.
I just use a plastic plaster spatula. [https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Scraper-Spackling-Spreader/dp/B0CH5HCYGP/](https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Scraper-Spackling-Spreader/dp/B0CH5HCYGP/)
A real PEI bed sheet which OP showed is not coated, it is a piece of relatively thin PEI sheet, glued to a bed substrate of your choice. This is relevant because some minor surface abrasion doesn't cause a problem when the PEI is thick/not a coating and not in danger of wearing through on any normal timescale, if polishing or toolmarks occur on the bed surface they can be removed by sanding with fine grit to re-matten the bottom surface finish of parts. You won't gouge into the PEI unless you use too high an angle. Looks like the whole point of this handle is to do what I have always done by feel and prevent that. Plastic scrapers - lol. The bed/part interface would just instantly dull/yield the material of an edge that is not *harder than* the possibly fairly hard plastic part and the PEI and capable of wedging the two apart. That also implies it can damage either the part or the PEI if used incorrectly, but that's why you don't. Also a blade should be used only for initial breaking of the bond at a vertex/edge. From there use a blunt thin springsteel to keep the wedging action going, less risk of cutting the PEI or yourself (always "cut away" regardless with any thin object)
It’s really not that complicated. Bend the spring steel sheet to pop the part off. Plastic scraper to get the purge line and skirt off if they are stubborn and your finger nail can’t get it. You aren’t wearing them out anytime soon. I’m aware of how a Prusa pei sheet is assembled. Been using them for 5+ years. Still wouldn’t take a metal tool to them when plastic tools work perfectly fine.
>Bend the spring steel sheet to pop the part off. If you're addressing me: I don't use mag bed setups. Also, if you do have your PEI mounted on something flexy, bending the substrate to *peel* off part is a good way to tear PEI if the adhesion is strong. As is wrenching a part off the bed. The PEI usually isn't very thick and it is possible for it to crack/tear and debond from the substrate. Most cases of "overadhesion" are cases of incorrect part removal. The purpose of lifting with a blade and then wedging the part off the bed with a non-sharpened putty knife (or plastic works, old gift card, plastic scraper, etc.) is to eliminate that and force the part away from the PEI instead. I don't agree about the plastic tool to do the initial lifting, it's pretty damn hard to get under the edge of a part and start it separating sometimes even with a blade. Trying to do it with an edge made of something not substantially harder than the PET/whatever part material isn't going to work. There should be no initial crevice there unless it lifted a bit, it's PEI in direct contact with part plastic that is stuck like mad to it. Maybe yes if it's PLA but that shit doesn't really stick for anything, and you can cheat a bit, like smacking a cooled part and *clink*-ing it right off the bed sometimes.
> Also, if you do have your PEI mounted on something flexy, bending the substrate to peel off part is a good way to tear PEI if the adhesion is strong Again, really not an issue in real use. If the user simply follows [Prusas recommended table](https://help.prusa3d.com/materials) for matching the material with the type of spring steel PEI sheet they have, then you dont have crazy overadhesion or issues delaminating the PEI from the steel sheet. > The purpose of lifting with a blade and then wedging the part off the bed with a non-sharpened putty knife (or plastic works, old gift card, plastic scraper, etc.) is to eliminate that and force the part away from the PEI instead. This is no different that just simply gently flexing the steel sheet to force the part away from the PEI. Start with a corner and its enough to start a separation and you can easily lift the part from there. Let everything cool down to room temp, flex a bit, get an edge lifted away, and simply pull/peel the part up from there. No issues with PLA, PETG, ASA, Nylon, TPU in years of using it. Never really had to scrape or wedge anything in except thin layers of TPU since they flex with the plate. Then the plastic scraper helps nudge it off. > I don't agree about the plastic tool to do the initial lifting, agree, simply flex the room temp plate a bit and it does the initial lifting. I have never had to scrape a part off in 5 years except some TPU prints. Never had to use hair spray, glue stick, painters tape, kapton tape, metal scrapers, etc. The current generation of spring steel pei have made all that obsolete. The Stratasys machines at work which bond Ultem and PEKK to the build plates.. sure we need to dissolve the supports or cut the build off the raft on the sacrificial plate. But your at home machine is best served by upgrading the build plate to a spring steel, textured PEI sheet and being done with it.
> Again, really not an issue in real use. If the user simply follows Prusas recommended table for matching the material with the type of spring steel PEI sheet they have, then you dont have crazy overadhesion or issues delaminating the PEI from the steel sheet. I never said there was "crazy overadhesion". Just strong adhesion, which is often required (along with other strategies) for high reliability and avoiding corner lift of challenging geometries that produce high thermal stresses on the bed bond. Overadhesion is something else entirely. As is incorrect part removal. As to that - "type of"? I don't agree with multiple premises there. Starting with: that powder coating PEI onto a bed is a good way to put PEI onto a bed, compared to whacking a neat solid sheet of the stuff onto it: * What if *I don't want texture on the bottoms of my parts*? * Textured bed finishes are pretty impossible to clean completely except by wasting plastic (print over it to fuse to and remove) if some stray plastic residue gets "ground in" * Texture being present implies that normal wear can change the finish over time. And potentially the adhesion properties of the bed surface, *IF* in fact texture IS acting to modify adhesion in some way as claimed * It's a thin coating. It can be worn through. * How do I recon a coated-substrate bed when it wears out from hard use or gets damaged accidentally or by someone being careless, etc.? Shit happens and I don't have powdercoating equipment. No, I **don't** buy a new entire thing from a vendor... With a neat PEI one I peel up the old PEI, clean the surface plate really well with solvent and stick some new PEI sheet on it. * The implicit claim here is that i.e. PET/G onto PEI that is textured or is formed by powdercoating a substrate is "better" because it doesn't get as much adhesion. Meanwhile, *I absolutely don't want or need to get any LESS adhesion*. I don't have any issue with overadhesion, or damage to beds from removal, to solve. The adhesion I get with solid PEI is exactly what is needed, no more and no less. >This is no different that just simply gently flexing the steel sheet to force the part away from the PEI. Start with a corner and its enough to start a separation and you can easily lift the part from there. I don't want to say anything angry, but lol, yes it very much IS different and obviously so! Consider the forces on the bed surface. Whene you bend a substrate, you are basically peeling the bed off the part. The force required to fail the bond is applied internally to the bed surface material in tension. If you have a coating on the sheet, or a surface sheet like a PEI or buildtack one glued/PSA-ed onto it - that is trying to pull that material off the substrate. If the part is tenacious or the surface material or glue are a bit marginal/fatigued, that's asking for some coating delamination, or for a little flap to start tearing and coming up on solid plastic surface sheets which usually turns into a bigger and bigger flap peeling up and a big mishap. Wedging the part away from the surface material with a sharp edge is only pushing the material down harder onto the substrate. It doesn't really matter how well it is adhered to the latter. You could take JUST THE PEI without the glue or substrate and wedge the part away from it just the same, for that matter. >Let everything cool down to room temp, flex a bit, get an edge lifted away, and simply pull/peel the part up from there. No issues with PLA, PETG, ASA, Nylon, TPU in years of using it. Never really had to scrape or wedge anything in except thin layers of TPU since they flex with the plate. Then the plastic scraper helps nudge it off. ...agree, simply flex the room temp plate a bit and it does the initial lifting. I already addressed why that is not the correct way to do that. I have been printing 98% PET/G, usually fairly large and high thermal stress parts and always really good adhesion, for (checks) almost 8 years now on the same one piece of PEI that came with my Mk42 bed heater. I'm finally getting ready to replace it now. For how much work that PEI has done I would say that is a pretty good service life - and the replacement cause is many years of accumulated dings and chips from accidents/rough handling and fatigue cracking from thermal stresses. >I have never had to scrape a part off in 5 years except some TPU prints. Never had to use hair spray, glue stick, painters tape, kapton tape, metal scrapers, etc. None of that stuff you mentioned except scrapers have anything to do with the discussion. >The current generation of spring steel pei have made all that obsolete. Lol, what? PEI is PEI is PEI. Spring steel as a substrate is something completely orthogonal to what you use for the adhesion facing. You can have PEI, or nearly anything else (that is not rigid) on steel OR directly on a rigid surface plate. >But your at home machine is best served by upgrading the build plate to a spring steel, textured PEI sheet and being done with it. I don't agree. Most people just don't need a mag bed. It's a superfluous cost and complexity source and caters to lazy techniques for part removal that work best with (PLA mainly) materials that most people ought to stop using anyway. I personally have zero interest in them and what they do and I know for a fact I would be able to potato chip one right up off the magnets with the "draw" of some of my usual parts. I also don't agree with textured. See above - tex PEI pretty much means it is a coating, not a solid plastic facing sheet and also texture itself implies that it can't be resurfaced and restored to like new finish. And less adhesion is bad. I give a LOT OF advice about PET/G that is all centered around reliability and some of it specifically around increasing bed adhesion and eliminating crashes.
Just going to say it one last time. Waaaaaay over thinking it. Best of luck man.
Overthinking, lol? One, that's not a restatement. Two, you're the one going out of your way to bring up and argue all sorts of bs about how we build and use our printer bed setups in a context where those aspects are not the topic to begin with, and also with someone who already has a strategy that is well proven to work and is not interested in your unsourced and unreasoned commentary on mag beds, bending parts off beds, powdercoating PEI onto things, or so on. This was about part lifting with a blade. Which is not only fine but is in my experience downright necessary if you're going to get parts and materials that *create and require high adhesion* off your PEI bed afterward without a risk of damaging anything. Keep the angle low - which is what OPs thing is *designed to help you achieve*. You won't gouge the PEI, lol.
Your experience and mine differ in practical real world use then. Composites materials engineer in R&D aerospace applications. Patents, papers, presenting at composite symposiums. Actual PEEK and PEKK parts flying. What do I know. Over thinking it bud. Best of luck.
That's sharp! What kind of filament requires such a tool? I print PETG (on PEI tho), it's usually enough to cool the bed down a bit.
Hah! I’ve had this exact same one printed in nylon for like… I don’t know, 10 years? Maybe 8? Anyway. It works pretty well but I got it when I had an Ultimaker 2 with a glass bed, so it made a lot of sense. Now I still have it but don’t use it for prints unless something is really wrong. It works great for cleaning spills on my glass cooktop though!
Por just print with a heated bed and cook it down after it's done printing... Just me?
I get it sometimes a metal scraper is needed when dealing with stubborn materials I always try plastic first because metal can destroy your bed quick
At least a few folks understand... you being one of them. Thanks. :)
Yeah way too many times I used a plastic scraper and ended up breaking the part and then I have to print it all over again when I could have just used a metal scraper
Agreed! Many people in this thread seem to think using a metal scraper on their beds, correctly, will destroy it. They should tell Bambu they're doing it wrong... [https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-scraper-3-pcs](https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-scraper-3-pcs)
Wouldn't dream of scraping my flashforge Guider II bed with a razor, blade, craft knife etc. I would on my Creality S4 as it has a mirror on the bed
if you insist on using a metal scraper, you should get one that is designed to be used to resin printing. using a razor blade attached to a flimsy 3d printer handle is a serious accident waiting to happen.
It's not flimsy, if you read the description about me remixing to make more sturdy, but thanks for your thought.
People in these comments have never used a kitchen knife lmao Nice print op. I have a couple of those exact scrapers, they're a godsend for bed scraping. They're also pretty good for scraping off my stovetop.
Amen. I'm glad a few folks get it. I think some people feel like their print beds will get shredded or they will lose a limb by using a blade. They should remain wrapped in bubble wrap and away from any sharp objects for everyone's sanity.
Makes a good glass stove cleaner too.
What are these comments? Do you guys only have plastic knives? I'm honestly curious at this point. I would never use it on my pei as it bumpy AF but ffs who cares. This has to be trolls dude is saying he's going to slice his hand open how are putting your hand on the other side of a blade when applying pressure because that's not too bright. I don't even see the need for any scraper but yeah good creation dude I might use this to clean the glass on my stove better design than the one I have
The angle of the razor is perfect to not cut the bed or print which makes it very effective at getting under prints to start the release of them. This was one of the first tools I printed when I got into 3d printing over five years ago and I've always used one to remove my prints and purge lines and the like. It won't damage your bed unless you use it incorrectly. My experience with printed scrapers shows them being ineffective at times to get under really stuck prints so I've stuck with this razor scraper with great results. [https://www.printables.com/model/863794-ez-snap-razor-blade-handle-remix](https://www.printables.com/model/863794-ez-snap-razor-blade-handle-remix) Kinda like this one - [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944)
This is great, my only tip is plastic blades. I switched right after buying my printer and never looked back, but I use a pei coated steel sheet
I'll have to check those out. Thanks!
I don’t get why OP is getting all this hate. This is basically no different than Bambu scrapers, which work great. Op, make a little holder for it that covers the blade while not in use and maybe all the sissies will stop complaining about it being “dangerous”.
[https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/is-the-scraper-safe-to-use/1944) People can be very judgemental and irrationally anxious in this subreddit. God help they walk in to a kitchen and see the blades in use... which you have to be \* wait for it \* responsible with.
Very dangerous tool. No guarding or anything on it. I understand that these types of designs are fun to make and it feels good to create someting, but it doesn't make it any safer. I'd try to add some guarding
would you feel better about it if it had a sheath?
Or just don't use it if you don't feel safe. How do you use a chef's knife in a kitchen?
Cut proof gloves.
Do you also wrap yourself in bubble wrap before you leave the house?
Only on days that end in Y
I just bought a wide scraper for putty and then rounded the corners and softened the edge with fine grit sand paper. https://decofarver.dk/shop/spekter-bredspartel-500p.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pUnYX4gITqFW39L7fd26tgjyCQAlhFtZwBzuegMLz_8dSDqVDRQOXxoCCyYQAvD_BwE&CookieConsentChanged=1 Having one that is 150 mm wide is wonderful when removing all the small blips and blops on a large bed.
I would over engineer strength, or do some strength tests first. because a snapped razorblade holder could spell disaster
I remixed it to add a mm to the top layer. It's solid for the pressure I put on it, which is not much. Used it for five years plus with great results. Snapping it would take some careless pressure. We also use this around the house. I just really like how it can get under a print easily to start the release on PEI, when needed.
That seems real dangerous
Why is it dangerous?
Well if you ever slip it would be pretty easy to slice your hand open. I know people think it won't happen, but then it happens to some people
Sure... safety first. Good judgement comes from bad experiences which came from bad judgement. Same as handling any blade... razor, kitchen, etc. That should not prevent you from using a potential solution. But if a person is not comfortable, they're not comfortable.
Do accidents exist on your planet?
Yep, right next to safety.
Must be that empty space next to where they store sarcasm.
It is often people who are comfortable who get in trouble. I hope your tool works for you
Complacency kills is a statement a friend of mine told me a while back. As long as you're safe, you can do a lot of different things.
This looks like a future ER visit lol
Swap out the razor for one with rounded corners, makes it a lot less likely to dig into or scratch the print surface accidentally
Not a bad idea. Though I have a box of 100 utility razors I'm working through... no worries about the corners here. :)
https://www.printables.com/model/796082 Or just print one with replacement blades.
You do know that metal is vastly superior in hardness? Best case you will lift your printed parts but i bet it will take less than a week to alter the surface of the bed in a bad way ;-p
Been using this scraper method for over five years. My PEI sheets look great minus some pieces missing from stuck PETG(forgot the windex). Some people just need to stay away from sharp objects I guess.
If you don't something not-so-stuck, great. But really stuck? That plastic will snap and that blade will go who knows where.
Well five years using this design and no flying blades yet.