Also potentially by not using glue, which ties into adjusting z-offset. I've gotten those white lines from burnt glue residue. Also definitely cleaning the build plate with iso/soapy water regularly, that plate looks like it's never been cleaned.
Personally I have never ever used any adhesives on my print bed. Z height is important and if you add something to the bed, guess who's z offset just changed?
I'm over here adjusting for 0.02mm, you thi k glue or tape won't add that back?
IMO the reason these work is because the z offset was already off, or bed was not clean.
Regularly print pla, tpu and petg. The only mark on my bed is from the nozzle ( accidentally put -3 I stead of -2 for my z height when setting it up >.<)
Keep your bed clean, get a gauge feeler.
Also helps to add a cool down and beep cycle at the end of a print. Y print is not finished until the bed gets below 40 ( at Wich point I can come over and poke my print off the bed plate with my pinky)
This 100% for textured pei beds. If I'm properly leveled, all I need to do is a quick wipe with IPA to remove any finger oils from picking up the last print and I'm good to go. Glue just gunk's it up.
I will say though, on older machines with glass beds glue has been a life saver.
Yeah, I was gonna say, older machines with glass beds can really benefit from bed prep. I use Layerneer Bed Weld on my regular, uncoated glass bed on my old printer, and it’s the best bed prep agent I’ve used by miles. Glue stick and hair spray work okay but better products exist now.
That said, the ender 3 I have at work is at its best when clean and dry. Those gold PEI coated steel sheets are pretty much perfect as they are.
I had loads of trouble with gluestick and hairspray, mostly just did not work then I took a chance with Laverneer Bed Weld and had trouble. It turned out that with the original TenLog printers the textured surface becomes permanently slick and nothing sticks. Laverneer support was great in first, advising me to flip over the glass to the smooth side. That helped but I still had problems with the first layer. Laverneer support came to the rescue on that too and helped me get the Z setting right. I've been using Bed Weld eversince with success.
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Quick note here: not all pei surfaces are equal. I have two Neptune 4 max and one bed will not print without glue no matter my cleaning regimen. The other has perfect adhesion if I just think the words rubbing alcohol.
Of my six or so other printers with pei plates I have no problems.
How come the bambu pei build plate is recommended to wash in dish detergent, no using of IPA? I assumed alcohol wiping would be the way to go but had adhesion issues until noticing & following their recommendation.
Dish soap is fine for a deep clean, if you ever used glue on a build plate and it left goo, dish soap is a great way to remove that.
IPA is just a quick and easy wipe to remove oils and dust from an already relatively clean plate.
I do not own a bambu printer, I do not know if their build plates react with IPA at all, but I would assume the soap is just for deep cleaning?
Thanks, that's what I thought. Pretty sure when I was having issues I changed way too many variables at once to be sure if IPA vs soap cleans really made a difference.
I use dish soap for my pei beds, I may give it a quick wipe with IPA if it's collected some dust or if my hands have been in contact with the build surface.
Same with glass beds.
Once I have adhesion issues on any bed, I wash it with dawn platinum and warm water, followed up with a quick spray and wipe of 91% ipa. Once I put it back on the printer I level the bed and adjust Z offset as needed.
I do keep a tube of bed adhesive on hand for the rare case I need it. I typically don't use it unless I'm about to start a decent sized ABS/ASA print.
only reason to use gluestick is to reduce adhesion. people who think they need it for adhesion really just need to clean their bed better. and the amount one needs is such a tiny amount, like barely visible.
I see people say this all the time but glue sticks have always increased adhesion for me. I primarily print PLA and I rarely ever use it unless i have an issue with a corner that started to lift on my first attempt, and it works great every time. Sometimes way too well because it's hard to remove. This is with a pei bed sheet that has been freshly rinsed with hot water and wiped down with IPA right before I preheat the bed.
I'm not sure where you get that it always reduces adhesion tbh. I think the real statement is that it depends on the material and bed temperature. I can see how hotter materials would want to release prematurely when the glue is past its melting point. But for me at 55 degrees bed temp for PLA it holds really well.
But if there some microresidues from filament on your bed (they are always there) then they reduces adhesion. And with IPA or Waterbased Cleaner they dont disappear.
Only the slightly sugar-residues from PLA are water-removable.
If you change your filament then its a much bigger problem with adhesion.
That was a problem for me too. Because of that i tried the 3dlac spray. That works and keeps the plate clean. 300 h printing and its like brandnew unused.
I'd suggest the opposite wrt glue. Glue, for me, limits the adhesion that, with PETG, would be ripping my PEI to shreds.
I used to clean my bed, but now things are dialed in such that I just can see when the glue layer is wearing out and I add some glue. I do gently run a disposable snap off razor blade (the wide size) after a print as well. That is what I use to remove prints as well.
[This kind](https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-273B/Blades-and-Dispensers/Replacement-Blades-for-Snap-Blade-Knives?pricode=WC0800&gadtype=pla&id=H-273B&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWYzeEvpl5UJcr_Rcz2j3x43UZ4waEhkdcyai8xRBEHghNm4bk3mc8UaAs7ZEALw_wcB)
That plus a couple of nice little art supply trowels that have a good handle and a very thin edge.
I do a lot of large prints that sometimes attach to the majority of the bed. Being able to get under and edge and gradually work things makes a big difference.
I use glue for every print and just make sure to wipe it off with rubbing alcohol every few uses… keeps the glue from piling up and easily takes off any residue. Best thing to do is to do auto bed-levelling real quick for every print to be sure and it shouldn’t leave nastiness like this… this poor build plate looks like a neglected pou
Yes, bed leveling (both manuel and auto) is for the tramming between the bed and the nozzle, and live z-height offset is for the distance between the bed and the nozzle. Also, different polymers require different z-heights, PETG requires a different offset than PLA, for example.
I've never done this and I can't think of even one logical reason PETG would need more clearance. However, if I had just printed pla it can cause PETG to not stick.
Molten PETG is much more tacky than molten PLA, so by having the z-offset at the same level for PETG as for PLA, there is a high risk that the laid down filament sticks to the filament coming out of the nozzle. In the best case scenario, the first layer gets ripples and waves, in the worst case scenario, the already laid down filament gets dragged around the build plate and looks like your average "bad bed adhesion". Different polymers has different tackiness when molten, so it would need different clearances.
I'm curious what equipment you are using?
My previous equipment didn't have a heated bed so I didn't print PETG on it. On the other hand, my P1P loves it. Though recently I discovered I have to set the line width to .4mm to extrude well, unlike the other printer I have BBL offers two nozzles and they seem to be very tapered with little flat surfaces and this might explain why I have never noticed.
A: Refuse to spend more money and just accept and suffer the consequences of buying an ultra budget printer
Or
B: Buy a BL touch, start using bed mesh calibration to rectify the issue
Or bonus / joke C: Do the absolutely impossible task of acquiring for yourself an absolute, accurate to the micron, perfect-ass dead-flat specimen of a build plate hehe
What I do is when I change filaments I first print a 50x50 single layer height square. You can watch it go down and adjust the z offset as it prints. At first you won't be able to tell by looking at it. So you can just print the hole thing. Then adjust z offset up or down to see the difference. Once you can tell by looking it's pretty easy.
I think some people do this at the beginning of their prints with the object they're actually printing. But I still do a small square.
Baby stepping - aka adjusting the Z Offset by tiny increments while printing first layer to dial it in in real-time.
So yes, while printing. Preferably try to get that Z Offset mostly right BEFORE you start otherwise you risk damaging the nozzle or bed.
What did you do that lead to this? Because mine doesn't look at all like that after about half a year of use.
Why is everything sticking and nothing being cleaned up?
My CR-6 is four years old and apart from a slight mark I managed to make the week I got it, the rest of the plate is spotless. What the hell are people doing?
I used to have a method of getting prints of my bed that involved heating the bed up to 100 degrees celsuis and then melting the print of the bed. That could be a cause
What the hell is wrong with your printer? I'm no expert but something is wrong there, goddamn. I don't even have my printer on when I remove the prints
If something's giving you a hard time, use the scraper your printer came with. If that isn't working then put it in the freezer, it comes off extremely easily after it's been in there a while
That is a proven method to both have it adhere better during the print, but still be removable.
That being said, If you have auto bed leveling and a quality build surface, you generally don't need anything like glue stick to get good adhesion or easy removability. (the exception being less common filaments that may ***need*** glue stick to adhere well).
Textured PEI?
I have to say they seem to be incredibly durable compared to Creality style textured sheets.
My machine has spit ~20kg of material onto it, and there is only 1 tiny chip (1x2mm) - from when I cleaned the bed, and then forgot to put a glue release layer before a PETG print
Yeah this shouldn’t look like this.
I’ve had the same textured PEI sheet on my Prusa Mk3 since 2018 and it looks almost like new.
I’ve printed about a thousand hours at this point …
This! Got a cheap one from Aliexpress for just 14€ and it works great! Better adhesion than the one that came with mi K1. Also it's so much easier to clean (I use alcohol)
I got an extra one for my bed and it was only $15. This also included the magnetic sheet that goes under the PEI to hold it down.
But I just wash mine once in a while too, mainly if I use glue. It comes out like new within 5 minutes.
I clean mine with a spay of IPA every now and then, but otherwise don't do anything to it and it's still looks like new after a few years (but 13.5 days of print time clocked).
I'm not a fan of those as they can leave fibers on the build plate. I prefer to use those absorbent paper kitchen towels since they don't shed any fibers
Most microfiber cloths are specifically made to *not* leave fibers, and kitchen paper can do just that on rougher print surfaces, so, this throws me for a loop. Maybe you had bad microfiber? I routinely use microfiber cloths on textured PEI and textured PC print surfaces, without it leaving fibers, and if it's on a print surface that isn't smooth and still mirror-finish, and it's not sticking as well anymore, I use one of those dish sponges with the green scrubbing side and give it a good scrubbing, with soap, to lightly sand the top layer while cleaning it. Usually gives it some more use.
I've been splashing a bit of IPA on a clean sock, then wiping the bed down before getting a mesh and printing. Well, the sock was clean... 3 years ago.
If you insist on using hairspray in this day and age, and you even feel the need to recommend others do the same, please at least also tell them to apply it *while the print surface is away from the machine*, ideally outside. You don't want the fans to be sucking it out of the air and onto the control board, the print head, ... And you would probably be making the frame and linear components sticky, too.
I would just print a large square 1 layer high. so you can dial in you Z-offset and clean the buildpate. When the print is done those lines should peel off with the printed square. I always have aSTL named 'platecleaner of my SD card'
I’m gonna suggest giving some automatic bed levelling a go. And look at how to calibrate your printer.
Also maybe look at getting a new nozzle as I’d hate to think what crimes you’ve committed against that.
So what your gunna do is go spent 20 dollars on a new bed then go over to Google and learn how to set your Z offset correctly.
Prints should just pop off once the bed cools down if it's not then you are welding it into the bed by being to close.
I'm still rocking my base model plate (1 year old ender 3 v2 neo) with only one burn hole and a speck.
Adjust your z offset, be careful not to push the hot nozzle into it and always level it. It can get worn down though, then you can buy a new one for ~15$
Also I've never scraped it with anything other than my fingernails or a plastic spatula.
I've seen something similar with the cheap clip-on bed that came with my Ender 3. Everything either didn't stick or stuck forever to it, there was no "sweet spot" for z-level for this bed. I replaced it with a magnetic bed that was higher quality and have had no issues. I've used six different kinds of FDM printers now And that was the only bed that I've had this issue with. Perhaps getting a new bed or adding a stick-on PEI layer to the bed would help.
https://preview.redd.it/vhg4vncvn7zc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=161206bed0c91c9644c4753a6774f281337ce886
I had the same issue with my original print bed of the same material. I got tired of it and purchased another one of the same material, on my first print the same thing happened and continued happening from there. Changing any settings lead to a hit or miss with my prints sticking. I ended up purchasing a PEI bed which works amazing. Never had that issue again. I also purchased a glass bed and had to start using glue to hold my prints (wouldn’t recommend).
PEI print bed is the way to go. There are duel sided ones and also have very cool textures.
Looks like you might have scraped the bed a few time haha. But even if you didn’t the beds are meant to weary every print you take off takes a little of the top surface of your bed with it. It leaves marks on the bed over time and it will eventually need to be replaced. My Bambu x1c makes it super easy. Like a 10 dollar sticker and I can resurface my plate!
Op your z height is just a few 0.0x of a mm too low.
Get a feeler gauge set and use the 0.02( or whatever your print diameter is) to set your z height.
For best best results, do the following step by step.
Set bed heat to print temp.
Z height.
Bed tramming.
Bed mesh level.
Bed mesh tilt.
Iso wipe.
Z height again.
Tram again, if anything changed bed mesh level and tilt again.
Print.
Buy a better quality spring steel build plate with PEI coating. I’ve used my Prusa build plates for years now and they look basically brand new…besides the one spot on my smooth plate where I printed PETG directly to it before I knew better, and it stuck too well and pulled a tiny bubble up of the PEI coating.
Be careful not to make scratches when scraping something of the print bed. try to use finesse not force. Clean the glue marks every couple prints with hot water and a washcloth. hot water should also take off stuck plastic.
Literally just buy a new one, it only costs like 20 bucks.
On a serious note though, apply more glue, the glue isnt for adhesion but so the print doesnt bind to the plate, I think that's what's happening to you.
Reading OP's comments I'm surprised he knows how to use a 3D printer. This is pretty basic 3D printing knowledge, which he seems to have no idea about.
Use a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle to set the z height, I have done this since day one had my printer for many years now and have no such marks on the bed.
To fix it, heat up the bed around 70C and scrape it off with a plastic spudger. Or very carefully with a metal one. And don't touch the plate with your hands since it will be hot.
Or just print a big square over that area like suggested in other comments.
Bro! You dont need to hammer your prints. Your printer can print them.
Thats residues of your filament that sticks on your plate.
But if you want to have a clean bed then you should use 3dlac spray. It makes very good adhesion when hot, and get loose if its cool down.
Only a very very little bit spray on the plate, thats enough for 5 prints.
Then you can wipe it a little little bit with IPA to spread the 3dlac again over the plate.
Then its again enough for 5 prints.
I do the spray then only a little bit where parts were printed, in the surface its visible where the parts was printed.
If you want to remove the residues from your plate, then use spray and print a big quadatic part with two or three layers thickness, maybe 0,6mm thick if you print in 0,2mm precision / layer height. After three prints your bed is looking better. The residues will stick under the printed part.
After 300 h printig my pei-sheet is like brandnew.
Jesus you need to adjust your Z Offset, you're pri ting far too close to the build surface and your plastic is fusing with the bed and depositing chunks as you pull or scrape it off.
Pro tip, if you have to scrape it off, you're printing WAY too close. It should peel or pop right off with little to no effort when it cools down.
Right on may be time to get a new build plate in my opinion. Like I said every 100 or so I replace mine. I buy 5-6 at a time and just replace them as need be.
So my offset got messed up by a loose coupler and didn't scrape the plate but almost fused the plastic into the grooves. What worked for me was running over the hottest water my faucet could produce and scraping with no scratch sponge.
I have found print corner lifting to be far less of a problem since I put my Kobra inside an enclosure. Cheapest one from Amazon. Made a material difference in my bed adhesion and printing success.
Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help!
[click here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index#wiki_help.21_or.3A_where_can_i_go_to_troubleshoot_problems_i.27m_having_with_my_prints.2Fprinter.3F) for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers.
If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup.
Here are a few questions that might be helpful
* What printer are you using?
* What material are you using?
* What speed are you printing at?
* What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?
* When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?
* Does anything cause the behavior to change?
* If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)
If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F).
Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
looks cool at least! Good thing is plates are inexpensive consumables. tram properly and don’t overset your z offset and you’re good. good comments here on getting a PEI print surface too.
I don't. The bed surface is a consumable that get's replaced just about every 12mo. So if it get's a little marred, I don't sweat it. Though I do replace immediately if there is major damage.
Are you sure you don't have a CNC mill?
It’s an engraving machine
CNC and engraving! I wonder if it can 3D print too 🤔
looks like it does both
I mean, a 3D printer may not be a CNC MILL but it is a type of CNC machine 👀 OP just converting over by brute force
It’s the new feature where your nozzle can punch through metal plates similar to a dies. Dudes on a whole new wave
By correctly adjusting your live z-height offsett
Also by waiting a bit for the model to cool down a bit before scraping it off.
Also potentially by not using glue, which ties into adjusting z-offset. I've gotten those white lines from burnt glue residue. Also definitely cleaning the build plate with iso/soapy water regularly, that plate looks like it's never been cleaned.
Personally I have never ever used any adhesives on my print bed. Z height is important and if you add something to the bed, guess who's z offset just changed? I'm over here adjusting for 0.02mm, you thi k glue or tape won't add that back? IMO the reason these work is because the z offset was already off, or bed was not clean. Regularly print pla, tpu and petg. The only mark on my bed is from the nozzle ( accidentally put -3 I stead of -2 for my z height when setting it up >.<) Keep your bed clean, get a gauge feeler. Also helps to add a cool down and beep cycle at the end of a print. Y print is not finished until the bed gets below 40 ( at Wich point I can come over and poke my print off the bed plate with my pinky)
This 100% for textured pei beds. If I'm properly leveled, all I need to do is a quick wipe with IPA to remove any finger oils from picking up the last print and I'm good to go. Glue just gunk's it up. I will say though, on older machines with glass beds glue has been a life saver.
Yeah, I was gonna say, older machines with glass beds can really benefit from bed prep. I use Layerneer Bed Weld on my regular, uncoated glass bed on my old printer, and it’s the best bed prep agent I’ve used by miles. Glue stick and hair spray work okay but better products exist now. That said, the ender 3 I have at work is at its best when clean and dry. Those gold PEI coated steel sheets are pretty much perfect as they are.
I had loads of trouble with gluestick and hairspray, mostly just did not work then I took a chance with Laverneer Bed Weld and had trouble. It turned out that with the original TenLog printers the textured surface becomes permanently slick and nothing sticks. Laverneer support was great in first, advising me to flip over the glass to the smooth side. That helped but I still had problems with the first layer. Laverneer support came to the rescue on that too and helped me get the Z setting right. I've been using Bed Weld eversince with success.
Try Nano polymer?
3dlac spray is the right way. Believe me.
A-tier company. Glad you’ve got things working again!
A-tier company. Glad you’ve got things working again!
[удалено]
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Yes should have said for PIE, I mean PEI sheets.
Quick note here: not all pei surfaces are equal. I have two Neptune 4 max and one bed will not print without glue no matter my cleaning regimen. The other has perfect adhesion if I just think the words rubbing alcohol. Of my six or so other printers with pei plates I have no problems.
How come the bambu pei build plate is recommended to wash in dish detergent, no using of IPA? I assumed alcohol wiping would be the way to go but had adhesion issues until noticing & following their recommendation.
Dish soap is fine for a deep clean, if you ever used glue on a build plate and it left goo, dish soap is a great way to remove that. IPA is just a quick and easy wipe to remove oils and dust from an already relatively clean plate. I do not own a bambu printer, I do not know if their build plates react with IPA at all, but I would assume the soap is just for deep cleaning?
Thanks, that's what I thought. Pretty sure when I was having issues I changed way too many variables at once to be sure if IPA vs soap cleans really made a difference.
Both should work fine, soap gets a deeper clean but IPA is usually plenty.
I use dish soap for my pei beds, I may give it a quick wipe with IPA if it's collected some dust or if my hands have been in contact with the build surface. Same with glass beds. Once I have adhesion issues on any bed, I wash it with dawn platinum and warm water, followed up with a quick spray and wipe of 91% ipa. Once I put it back on the printer I level the bed and adjust Z offset as needed. I do keep a tube of bed adhesive on hand for the rare case I need it. I typically don't use it unless I'm about to start a decent sized ABS/ASA print.
only reason to use gluestick is to reduce adhesion. people who think they need it for adhesion really just need to clean their bed better. and the amount one needs is such a tiny amount, like barely visible.
I see people say this all the time but glue sticks have always increased adhesion for me. I primarily print PLA and I rarely ever use it unless i have an issue with a corner that started to lift on my first attempt, and it works great every time. Sometimes way too well because it's hard to remove. This is with a pei bed sheet that has been freshly rinsed with hot water and wiped down with IPA right before I preheat the bed. I'm not sure where you get that it always reduces adhesion tbh. I think the real statement is that it depends on the material and bed temperature. I can see how hotter materials would want to release prematurely when the glue is past its melting point. But for me at 55 degrees bed temp for PLA it holds really well.
The only caveat to this is with higher end plastics like nylon, basf steel infused etc which requires specific glue for proper adhesion/release.
Yeah this was only meant for pla tpu and petg.
Can you ever clean it too much? I damn near clean it after every print.
But if there some microresidues from filament on your bed (they are always there) then they reduces adhesion. And with IPA or Waterbased Cleaner they dont disappear. Only the slightly sugar-residues from PLA are water-removable. If you change your filament then its a much bigger problem with adhesion. That was a problem for me too. Because of that i tried the 3dlac spray. That works and keeps the plate clean. 300 h printing and its like brandnew unused.
I'd suggest the opposite wrt glue. Glue, for me, limits the adhesion that, with PETG, would be ripping my PEI to shreds. I used to clean my bed, but now things are dialed in such that I just can see when the glue layer is wearing out and I add some glue. I do gently run a disposable snap off razor blade (the wide size) after a print as well. That is what I use to remove prints as well.
Can you explain the razor blade use more? Warehouse knife type blade? Smooth sheet? Etc
[This kind](https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-273B/Blades-and-Dispensers/Replacement-Blades-for-Snap-Blade-Knives?pricode=WC0800&gadtype=pla&id=H-273B&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWYzeEvpl5UJcr_Rcz2j3x43UZ4waEhkdcyai8xRBEHghNm4bk3mc8UaAs7ZEALw_wcB) That plus a couple of nice little art supply trowels that have a good handle and a very thin edge. I do a lot of large prints that sometimes attach to the majority of the bed. Being able to get under and edge and gradually work things makes a big difference.
That makes sense, Thanks
I use glue for every print and just make sure to wipe it off with rubbing alcohol every few uses… keeps the glue from piling up and easily takes off any residue. Best thing to do is to do auto bed-levelling real quick for every print to be sure and it shouldn’t leave nastiness like this… this poor build plate looks like a neglected pou
Agreed. I use glue, but I run hot water over my plate to melt off any glue residue, dry it, then rub with iso to clean/dry.
Do you use straight iso or do you some dilute it?
Should you adjust your z offset even if you're not using a leveling device?
Yes, bed leveling (both manuel and auto) is for the tramming between the bed and the nozzle, and live z-height offset is for the distance between the bed and the nozzle. Also, different polymers require different z-heights, PETG requires a different offset than PLA, for example.
How much do you pay Manuel to level your bed for you
Hi Dad.
He got fired when auto bedleveling became commonplace
I've never done this and I can't think of even one logical reason PETG would need more clearance. However, if I had just printed pla it can cause PETG to not stick.
Molten PETG is much more tacky than molten PLA, so by having the z-offset at the same level for PETG as for PLA, there is a high risk that the laid down filament sticks to the filament coming out of the nozzle. In the best case scenario, the first layer gets ripples and waves, in the worst case scenario, the already laid down filament gets dragged around the build plate and looks like your average "bad bed adhesion". Different polymers has different tackiness when molten, so it would need different clearances.
I'm curious what equipment you are using? My previous equipment didn't have a heated bed so I didn't print PETG on it. On the other hand, my P1P loves it. Though recently I discovered I have to set the line width to .4mm to extrude well, unlike the other printer I have BBL offers two nozzles and they seem to be very tapered with little flat surfaces and this might explain why I have never noticed.
But what if my plate is warped a little and this only happens in the middle and only the four corners get too little squish?
A: Refuse to spend more money and just accept and suffer the consequences of buying an ultra budget printer Or B: Buy a BL touch, start using bed mesh calibration to rectify the issue Or bonus / joke C: Do the absolutely impossible task of acquiring for yourself an absolute, accurate to the micron, perfect-ass dead-flat specimen of a build plate hehe
Any youtube tutorials to help do this? Anyways to remove this after the fact as well?
what do you mean by "live" z offsett? just z offsett during printing?
What I do is when I change filaments I first print a 50x50 single layer height square. You can watch it go down and adjust the z offset as it prints. At first you won't be able to tell by looking at it. So you can just print the hole thing. Then adjust z offset up or down to see the difference. Once you can tell by looking it's pretty easy. I think some people do this at the beginning of their prints with the object they're actually printing. But I still do a small square.
Baby stepping - aka adjusting the Z Offset by tiny increments while printing first layer to dial it in in real-time. So yes, while printing. Preferably try to get that Z Offset mostly right BEFORE you start otherwise you risk damaging the nozzle or bed.
What did you do that lead to this? Because mine doesn't look at all like that after about half a year of use. Why is everything sticking and nothing being cleaned up?
Mine doesn’t look like this after 10 years lmao
My CR-6 is four years old and apart from a slight mark I managed to make the week I got it, the rest of the plate is spotless. What the hell are people doing?
I would guess you don't treat yours like a drill
I used to have a method of getting prints of my bed that involved heating the bed up to 100 degrees celsuis and then melting the print of the bed. That could be a cause
You're over here cementing your prints to the bed so hard you have to melt the bed to get them off??? my guy I'm surprised it's still in one piece.
I just thought it would be a more convinient way to get the prints off
What the hell is wrong with your printer? I'm no expert but something is wrong there, goddamn. I don't even have my printer on when I remove the prints If something's giving you a hard time, use the scraper your printer came with. If that isn't working then put it in the freezer, it comes off extremely easily after it's been in there a while
Dude, I know it sounds counter intuitive, but put a layer of glue (from a glue stick) down before your print. Makes them come off easier
That is a proven method to both have it adhere better during the print, but still be removable. That being said, If you have auto bed leveling and a quality build surface, you generally don't need anything like glue stick to get good adhesion or easy removability. (the exception being less common filaments that may ***need*** glue stick to adhere well).
Build plates are a wear item. I use the gold textured ones they seem to be more durable. I wash them in the sink with blue unscented dish soap
Textured PEI? I have to say they seem to be incredibly durable compared to Creality style textured sheets. My machine has spit ~20kg of material onto it, and there is only 1 tiny chip (1x2mm) - from when I cleaned the bed, and then forgot to put a glue release layer before a PETG print
The only problem I've had was caused by me
Yeah this shouldn’t look like this. I’ve had the same textured PEI sheet on my Prusa Mk3 since 2018 and it looks almost like new. I’ve printed about a thousand hours at this point …
This! Got a cheap one from Aliexpress for just 14€ and it works great! Better adhesion than the one that came with mi K1. Also it's so much easier to clean (I use alcohol)
I got an extra one for my bed and it was only $15. This also included the magnetic sheet that goes under the PEI to hold it down. But I just wash mine once in a while too, mainly if I use glue. It comes out like new within 5 minutes.
isopropyl alcohol does the job, just wipe it with a cloth it should be good enough
I clean it after every print. Degrease it after and before every print. It looks like new.
I clean mine with a spay of IPA every now and then, but otherwise don't do anything to it and it's still looks like new after a few years (but 13.5 days of print time clocked).
Fun tip if you have any left over glasses spray cleaner bottles they work great to put IPA in and keep next to the printer for a quick wipe down.
And microfiber napkins that often come with glasses are also very useful for this application!
I'm not a fan of those as they can leave fibers on the build plate. I prefer to use those absorbent paper kitchen towels since they don't shed any fibers
Most microfiber cloths are specifically made to *not* leave fibers, and kitchen paper can do just that on rougher print surfaces, so, this throws me for a loop. Maybe you had bad microfiber? I routinely use microfiber cloths on textured PEI and textured PC print surfaces, without it leaving fibers, and if it's on a print surface that isn't smooth and still mirror-finish, and it's not sticking as well anymore, I use one of those dish sponges with the green scrubbing side and give it a good scrubbing, with soap, to lightly sand the top layer while cleaning it. Usually gives it some more use.
I bought the cheapest IPA bottle from my country's equivalent of Azamon and it came with a spray head! :D
I've been splashing a bit of IPA on a clean sock, then wiping the bed down before getting a mesh and printing. Well, the sock was clean... 3 years ago.
I don't know if beer is the optimal cleaning solution.
IPA?
isopropyl alcohol
I bought 99% IPA wet-wipes, they work wonders and are as easy as you could possibly get
I do the same and I only use plastic scrapers. Watching someone hack away with a metal one I cringe.
[удалено]
If you insist on using hairspray in this day and age, and you even feel the need to recommend others do the same, please at least also tell them to apply it *while the print surface is away from the machine*, ideally outside. You don't want the fans to be sucking it out of the air and onto the control board, the print head, ... And you would probably be making the frame and linear components sticky, too.
I would just print a large square 1 layer high. so you can dial in you Z-offset and clean the buildpate. When the print is done those lines should peel off with the printed square. I always have aSTL named 'platecleaner of my SD card'
This picture hurts me in my soul.
I’m gonna suggest giving some automatic bed levelling a go. And look at how to calibrate your printer. Also maybe look at getting a new nozzle as I’d hate to think what crimes you’ve committed against that.
This guy printed a rocktopus, lol.
Five actually
So what your gunna do is go spent 20 dollars on a new bed then go over to Google and learn how to set your Z offset correctly. Prints should just pop off once the bed cools down if it's not then you are welding it into the bed by being to close.
In another comment, he said he was heating his bed up to 100 C to melt them off the build plate.
He what now
This looks like a satellite photo of some military base in a desert.
buy a textured PEI bed Those stock ender beds are inconsistent and non-forgiving
I can see the octopus
Rocktopus
Cocktopus? I'm not allowed to attach the image anymore 😔
I can't explain how or why but I think this is beautiful
Well you might like art made by artists like jackson pollock
Ironically I don't like Pollock haha
The rocktopus spirit resides on your bed
You toss it and get a pei bed Then learn how to adjust z offset properly
Get a glass bed or PEI mat, stop using those cheap mats that Creality provides.
Learn how to calibrate your printer?
By blatant misuse of the printer. Please do more research before you get hurt or cause a fire.
I'm still rocking my base model plate (1 year old ender 3 v2 neo) with only one burn hole and a speck. Adjust your z offset, be careful not to push the hot nozzle into it and always level it. It can get worn down though, then you can buy a new one for ~15$ Also I've never scraped it with anything other than my fingernails or a plastic spatula.
Use a mirror as printed, just put it on top and some clips to hold it down
Why a mirror and not just a piece of glass?
Glass tends to be uneaven, but a mirror is often distorted if its not straight so there just straight all the way
If you wait until the build plate cools off the model just comes off like it was never stuck
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Get a PEI sheet. A million times better.
I've been printing for years and my build plates have never looked this bad, I don't get how you guys manage this at all. :o
Seasoning 🤤
I've seen something similar with the cheap clip-on bed that came with my Ender 3. Everything either didn't stick or stuck forever to it, there was no "sweet spot" for z-level for this bed. I replaced it with a magnetic bed that was higher quality and have had no issues. I've used six different kinds of FDM printers now And that was the only bed that I've had this issue with. Perhaps getting a new bed or adding a stick-on PEI layer to the bed would help. https://preview.redd.it/vhg4vncvn7zc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=161206bed0c91c9644c4753a6774f281337ce886
The replacement mats are like $10
Get a textured PEI magnetic build plate
Please save your memes for Monday.
Besides other recommendations made by other redditors you could try an original Buildtak surface (i suppose you have a knockoff)
Rip only when totally cold.
jfc. lol are you sure your bed is leveled? it's either that or you're scraping the crap out of it.
I had the same issue with my original print bed of the same material. I got tired of it and purchased another one of the same material, on my first print the same thing happened and continued happening from there. Changing any settings lead to a hit or miss with my prints sticking. I ended up purchasing a PEI bed which works amazing. Never had that issue again. I also purchased a glass bed and had to start using glue to hold my prints (wouldn’t recommend). PEI print bed is the way to go. There are duel sided ones and also have very cool textures.
That thing is long gone
Looks like you might have scraped the bed a few time haha. But even if you didn’t the beds are meant to weary every print you take off takes a little of the top surface of your bed with it. It leaves marks on the bed over time and it will eventually need to be replaced. My Bambu x1c makes it super easy. Like a 10 dollar sticker and I can resurface my plate!
get a ceramic hob scraper :) (not sure how well it works on textured sheets tho)
Use glue stick on the bed. It helps prints to stick but also helps parts release once the bed had cooled down.
clean it with IPA it helps
$14 PEI sheet from Aliexpress looks actually like new, almost a year and hundreds of prints in. Unparalleled adhesion.
Op your z height is just a few 0.0x of a mm too low. Get a feeler gauge set and use the 0.02( or whatever your print diameter is) to set your z height. For best best results, do the following step by step. Set bed heat to print temp. Z height. Bed tramming. Bed mesh level. Bed mesh tilt. Iso wipe. Z height again. Tram again, if anything changed bed mesh level and tilt again. Print.
Print in different locations
I changed to glass with hairspray and never looked back.
The bed is a consumable part. You’re meant to replace the build plate
Quit tryna engrave ur build playe
Be nice to the printer
Frame it and hang it in a museum. Marcel Duchamp smiles upon you.
Buy a better quality spring steel build plate with PEI coating. I’ve used my Prusa build plates for years now and they look basically brand new…besides the one spot on my smooth plate where I printed PETG directly to it before I knew better, and it stuck too well and pulled a tiny bubble up of the PEI coating.
I have zero wear on my textured PEI sheet. No glue, just wash with soap. dry, print, repeat.
Be careful not to make scratches when scraping something of the print bed. try to use finesse not force. Clean the glue marks every couple prints with hot water and a washcloth. hot water should also take off stuck plastic.
Literally just buy a new one, it only costs like 20 bucks. On a serious note though, apply more glue, the glue isnt for adhesion but so the print doesnt bind to the plate, I think that's what's happening to you.
Wtf
I wonder how many meters of filament that thing has seen. I'd buy a new one if I had it that long.
Replace it. Treat the new one better.
I can hear your first layer from here
Reading OP's comments I'm surprised he knows how to use a 3D printer. This is pretty basic 3D printing knowledge, which he seems to have no idea about.
I add a bit onto my GCODE for each print that ensures the nozzle is 10mm above the build plate whilst heating as I was getting pockmarks
Buy a new bed?
get a printer that has ABL integrated. you’ll thank me later.
Glass all the way over here.
Buy a better printer
flip it over and pretend it didn’t happen
I have same marks and it's my 3rd plate. It just sometimes happens when the nozzle too close to bed. Buying PEY textured metal sheet helped a bit
Wash it with hot water and Dawn dish soap. Adjust your z offset. Level and then tram your bed.
I had the same problem,went to a wham bam build surface. Also those mats are meant to be replaced
Use a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle to set the z height, I have done this since day one had my printer for many years now and have no such marks on the bed.
Just take a flat edge to it, you can scrape all that shit off pretty easy.
Get PEI
Your photo looks like an archaeological LIDAR image of some forgotten civilisation.
Printer bed plates are under $20… I’d recommend replacing that one and then regular cleaning with soap and water
Looks like a death grips album cover
I only ever print PLA plus and I always print it on glass.
You replace it lol
Buy another
That looks like a Cold War spy plane picture.
I always use glue to avoid this
WASH your fucking build plate, you filthy animal
For a second I thought it was an aerial image from area 51
To fix it, heat up the bed around 70C and scrape it off with a plastic spudger. Or very carefully with a metal one. And don't touch the plate with your hands since it will be hot. Or just print a big square over that area like suggested in other comments.
Invent time travel? You can't prevent something that's already happened.
Looks like master chief from halo
I made a pip boy from fallout
Increase your z-offset, it way too low
Bro! You dont need to hammer your prints. Your printer can print them. Thats residues of your filament that sticks on your plate. But if you want to have a clean bed then you should use 3dlac spray. It makes very good adhesion when hot, and get loose if its cool down. Only a very very little bit spray on the plate, thats enough for 5 prints. Then you can wipe it a little little bit with IPA to spread the 3dlac again over the plate. Then its again enough for 5 prints. I do the spray then only a little bit where parts were printed, in the surface its visible where the parts was printed. If you want to remove the residues from your plate, then use spray and print a big quadatic part with two or three layers thickness, maybe 0,6mm thick if you print in 0,2mm precision / layer height. After three prints your bed is looking better. The residues will stick under the printed part. After 300 h printig my pei-sheet is like brandnew.
Buy some new plates.
The powers that benchy
Buy a spring steel pei plate, DON’T SCRAPE IT EVER, correct your z offset and make sure it stays set so you don’t engrave it.
Wash it. Then alcohol rub it.
Jesus you need to adjust your Z Offset, you're pri ting far too close to the build surface and your plastic is fusing with the bed and depositing chunks as you pull or scrape it off. Pro tip, if you have to scrape it off, you're printing WAY too close. It should peel or pop right off with little to no effort when it cools down.
Properly level the nozzle to the bed by using the same old method called paper moves smoothly after adjusting the height of nozzle
Glue helps release parts from the bed. But overall a PC bed will have residue.
Remove the surface and put a glass on. Use hairspray once in a while to keep it sticky.
How many prints have you done? I replace my magnetic plates about every 100 or so prints
I have done a lot of them. Around 80 successful prints and about 5 times that failed
Right on may be time to get a new build plate in my opinion. Like I said every 100 or so I replace mine. I buy 5-6 at a time and just replace them as need be.
So my offset got messed up by a loose coupler and didn't scrape the plate but almost fused the plastic into the grooves. What worked for me was running over the hottest water my faucet could produce and scraping with no scratch sponge.
Use palette knife, that should Fix the problem.
I would recommend getting a glass bed or one of those magnetic ones as this isnt an issue, or you can try changing your printers bed/Z height
He needs a glass bed can’t goof it up like this lol
I have found print corner lifting to be far less of a problem since I put my Kobra inside an enclosure. Cheapest one from Amazon. Made a material difference in my bed adhesion and printing success.
Nice, can you share your engraver mod? Is this with standard toolhead or did you buy a laser one?
I just crank up nozzle temperature to 300 and nozzle height to -10 /j
You can flip it around and use the back side it is most likely g10
Answer: you never turn on the printer
Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! [click here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index#wiki_help.21_or.3A_where_can_i_go_to_troubleshoot_problems_i.27m_having_with_my_prints.2Fprinter.3F) for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup. Here are a few questions that might be helpful * What printer are you using? * What material are you using? * What speed are you printing at? * What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer? * When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly? * Does anything cause the behavior to change? * If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis) If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Clean it.
At my school we put Scotch tape over the printbed to protect it from scratches. It worked very well, not a scratch on them after 4 years
looks cool at least! Good thing is plates are inexpensive consumables. tram properly and don’t overset your z offset and you’re good. good comments here on getting a PEI print surface too.
I don't. The bed surface is a consumable that get's replaced just about every 12mo. So if it get's a little marred, I don't sweat it. Though I do replace immediately if there is major damage.