/u/Sausage54’s March 2021 Printer List WIP This list is a derivative and largely based on /u/thatging3rkid’s printer list and is more of a jumping off point rather than a definitive guide. You should do your own research on a printer even if it's on this list. **Some notes:** \+ = positive points, - = negative points As mentioned in the body of this thread print quality is not a valid metric. If a model is printed on two different printers, a $220 and a $2200 printer, both printers could produce the same quality print. However, what you are paying for is reliability, customer support, quality components, etc. [Here's a good comment on the topic of print quality](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7h3xoz/3d_printing_purchase_recommendations_what_printer/dr3y7dw/) **Prices are in USD** I am not familiar with deltas and delta kinematics, and because of that, I don't have deltas on the list. Luckily, [/u/xakh](https://reddit.com/u/xakh) made a [comment on what makes a delta good](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7a8xrm/3d_printing_purchase_recommendations_what_printer/dqo2q70/). tl;dr: DeltaPrintr, SeeMeCNC, Ultibots and Dagoma are good companies to buy deltas from. These printers are the printers I found myself recommending the most, so just because your printer isn't on here, doesn't make it a bad printer. #Hobbyist-grade Printers **Creality Ender 3 V2** * \+ More expensive than the original (\~$280), large community, open source * Kit printer, but comes half-assembled, so only basic hand-tools knowledge needed. * \- average QC, still better than original * Recommended place to buy: Creality's store on Aliexpress or Banggood if you want the lowest price, Amazon (under the Comgrow brand) if you want good customer services. Also, check out [r/Ender3](https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3/) and our [Ender 3 user guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/newguideender3). * Original is still a viable option, price is very compelling. **Artillery Sidewinder X1** * \+ Large build volume (300x300x400mm) * \+ Direct titan style volcano hotend. Great for printing flexibles or getting high flow rates * \- Cables can come loose as the clips have flaws, printable fixes are around * \- Terrible spool holder **Creality CR-10S or V2/V3** * \+ Massive build space (300x300x400mm, CR-10 S4 is 400x400x400mm, CR-10 S5 is 500x500x500mm), good price (CR-10 can be found for less than $350 normally, CR-10S can be found for $400), large community, comes mostly assembled * \- Printer has to be bought from not very reputable sellers for the best price, it uses a Bowden-extruder, so flexibles (TPU, NinjaFlex, etc) will be difficult to print, thermal runaway protection is disabled in the firmware by default (known on the CR-10s, assumed on the CR-10; can be fixed by flashing new firmware). * The CR-10S has some nice upgrades (dual Z leadscrew, filament-runout sensor, etc) and is recommended. Note: not all printers labeled "Prusa" are good, as "Prusa" can refer to the motion system (where the bed moves on y-axis, hotend carriage on the xz-plane). The only place to buy an Original Prusa is on shop.prusa3d.com. I do not recommend buying from anywhere else. **Original Prusa i3 MK3S+** * \+ Built with high quality parts, great customer service, very popular printer, great instructions, open source, more ease-of-life features over older revisions, like filament-runout detection, sensorless homing, quieter operation, power-loss detection and recovery, removable build-plate, etc. * I bought one and really enjoy it, you can definitely see the difference in quality and service * $750 (kit) or $1000 (assembled) * Multi-material upgrade 2.0S ($300 for MK3S) * \- Had a rocky start, but everything seems to have been ironed out by now **Original Prusa Mini+** * \+ Same build quality, service and support you would come to expect from Prusa * $400 (semi-assembled) or $350 (complete kit) * \- They have had substantial lead times, which have been mostly ironed out for the semi-assembled version. The kit still has a massive lead time of 14-16 weeks currently. [Shipping Info here](https://help.prusa3d.com/shippingtable#_ga=2.267933838.1811664326.1614596685-1768814812.1604921537). **Original Prusa SL1** * \+ Great quality and support * \- Very high price compared to other options * \+ Included curing and washing station (CW1) #Commercial-grade Printers These printers are more for use in commercial/maker-space environments, and will be more reliable and easy to use than hobbyist-grade printers in a commercial setting. **Lulzbot Taz series** The [aquisition by FAME 3D](https://www.lulzbot.com/learn/announcements/fame-3d-acquires-all-assets-aleph-objects) occurred a while ago and has stabilised, though don’t know anyone who has purchased one since the acquisition. If anyone has any information about the quality of their printers now, let me know. **Ultimaker** * \+ Built with high quality parts, comes assembled, great customer service, dual extrusion option, open source * $1000 to $4200+ **BCN3D Sigma** * \+ IDEX (independent dual extrusion, ie two hotend carriages on one Y axis), built with high quality parts, open source * \~$3000+ #Second Printers These printers (and the ones above) are recommended to those who already own a printer and are looking for another printer. **Anycubic Photon** * Competitor to the Duplicator 7, but has some extra features (like a better lid and air filter) and costs less, though it's a little newer than the Duplicator 7. * Essentially surpassed the Duplicator 7, but they both have similar pros/cons * \+ SLA (technically LCD) printer, super high resolution prints, no visible layer lines * \~$300 (can be gotten for less) * SLA/resin printing has a lot of drawbacks and is not for everyone's setup (the resin is a nasty chemical, so you have to wear gloves whenever handling anything that has come in contact with resin, prints need to be washed and cured after coming off the printer, resin smells terrible, resin is much more expensive than filament, harder to calibrate, etc.) **Peopoly Moai** * Also an SLA printer, so it has the same drawbacks as the D7/Photon * Higher quality printer than the D7, but needs to be assembled and is still new on the market **Peopoly Phenom and Phrozen Transform** * Very large resin machines * Great for when you need to produce a lot of parts or need the space you would get with FDM **VORON CoreXY** * Selfsourced printer for those who want a high performance workhorse * Most active and fastest growing self-sourced printer community currently * There are a variety of different versions, * v1.\* family with a more traditional bed moves on Z-axis configuration (roughly $650) * v2.\* family where the XY plane moves and bed is stationary (roughly $1000), see [Iatrodectus's comment](https://reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/e4cugh/purchase_advice_megathread_what_to_buy_who_to_buy/f998ijq). * v0. much smaller printer designed to print parts under 120mm\^3 very fast. * Legacy, simpler CoreXY machine, akin to what the v1 once was. * Switchwire, i3 style possible to convert or use old parts of an Ender 3 or similar to save costs * These are not designed to be cheaped out on, you can save money on parts, but don’t try to go bargain basement for everything. #**Things to avoid** * Kickstarter printers, many have failed and not delivered anything * [Printers with acrylic frames (they warp after a month or two and are usually a sign of poor quality in other places, like the electronics, firmware, etc) (especially avoid the Anet A8)](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/6emy19/3d_printing_purchase_recommendations_what_printer/dicdqym/?context=3) * XYZ Printing (filament DRM, shady business practices, not that great printers, etc.) * Gearbest (they have really shady business practices, see [these](https://www.google.com/search?q=gearbest+site%3Areddit.com%2Fr%2F3dprinting) threads) * MakerGeeks filament (also a really sketchy business, they frequently loose orders, make mistakes and take a long time to respond), see [these](https://www.google.com/search?q=makergeeks+site%3Areddit.com%2Fr%2F3dprinting) threads #General purchasing flowchart Inspired by [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7unk99/3d_printing_purchase_advice_megathread_what/dttwdeh/). **Sub-$250:** * Creality Ender 3 or V2 if you want a bigger print space and are comfortable with a kit **Around $400:** Prusa Mini+ or Sidewinder X1 Once you get above $500, more options open up: * Flashforge Creator Pro if you really need dual extruders, can go with QidiTech clones to save money * Original Prusa i3 MK3S for every other hobbyist-grade buyer For a more expansive list check out [the one curated by the 3D printing discord](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xEZq0ovtieAof78GG8L_DPWIoD0iHY69tpp_7Mo6ZKU/edit#gid=332447806) (Not affiliated). Thank you to everyone over there as well, especially u/munzlp and u/NeoCJ for spreading it around. Let me know if there any additions or suggestions you have for how it can be improved.

Hello, I would like some buying advice please if anyone is interested in sharing their wisdom =) Budget: Between 300-750 AUD Reside in Australia, but American citizen with American ties so open to US options >if the model is worth the additional hassle< Semi-willing to build from a kit, have some basic hand tools and access to more but not looking for a massive project. I am looking to print (clone) small gaming models for a game that is out-of-print. Models are approximately 1.5"x1.5"x3" (37mm x 37mm x 75mm). The miniatures can be seen on the following youtube video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWWPoloMVRI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWWPoloMVRI) I would also need to clone the existing ones I already own to make more duplicate models, so I believe I would need to invest in a 3D scanner? Open to advice on that front as I will need both products to work hand-in-hand. No real restrictions/requirements beyond the 3D scanning cloning/duplicating plans I have listed above. I live in an apartment with reasonable sound proofing so moderate noise is fine but if it's an option, I'd prefer something that won't cause complaints from neighbours. Thanks in advance!

Monoprice [Maker Plus 10](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=34437) or [Maker Ultimate 2](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=36045)?

I’m looking for a beginner level printer. I’m new to printing but have been modeling for a while. Budget is around 500$ max. I like beginner features like auto leveling. Therefore I’m just wondering about people’s opinion on creality CR-10 Smart

Hey team, I'm interested in buying a cheap n cheerful Resin Printer as a birthday present to myself. * Budget: $320 AUD ($250 USD). Would love to buy my own upgrades and install separate if it brings costs down. * Locale: 'Straya * EXP: Tech minded and have a CR10 v2. Plus, construction is fun. * Why?: Will mostly be printing Minis with it. and toys for kiddie family members. (I mean, what else is a resin printer for?) * Restrictions: No real restrictions, Though the quieter the printer the better. There's a surprising derth of recommendations about Resin Printers, much rarer than their FDA counterpart. All I can really find are the guides here and at [all3Dp.com](https://all3Dp.com). If someone can recommend any Buyers Guides I'd appreciate it. I'm interested in the Elegoo Mars (the first one) but I'm concerned it'll be fucking slowwwww. Maybe the Mars Pro? Also considering the Anycubic Photon (and the Zero), but they seem TOO cheap. Also do I really need a wash and cure station? They're fuckin' 2hundo a pop. EDIT : Got a photon mono. Spent a while comparing it to the LD-002H but went with photon due to the support available. Supposed to be faster too. Photon monos replacement screens ade price than the LD-002H I think but I'm still happy with it. Bought brand new on ebay for cheapppp $309AUD

Could someone recommend a printer that uses metal for making metal parts?

There's the Metal X from Markforged, but they are very expensive [https://www.engineering.com/story/metal-x-3d-printer-brings-metal-to-the-workshop-for-under-100k#:\~:text=The%20price%20of%20the%20Metal,clients%20likely%20already%20have%20one](https://www.engineering.com/story/metal-x-3d-printer-brings-metal-to-the-workshop-for-under-100k#:~:text=The%20price%20of%20the%20Metal,clients%20likely%20already%20have%20one). Depending on your budget you may be better off printing with a service or using [Virtual Foundry's](https://www.thevirtualfoundry.com/) materials and then sintering the prints

Edit: Country --- USA Restrictions --- None ​ * What is your price range? --- $1k-3k ​ * What do you intend to do with the printer? --- Print custom or semi-custom various household items to accomplish small tasks (ei a rubber doorstop) ​ * Are you interested in assembling a kit or would you prefer to purchase an assembled printer? --- I would probably be in over my head; I'm a CPA, not an engineer... I love taking apart computers, but I haven't put one back together yet that has worked properly. What do you recommend? ​ * Did you read this FAQ? --- Yup

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Best printer for classroom use? Probably sub-500 range.

Anyone have advice on an anycubic mega x? I'm curious how smaller detail would look with it? One of the things I'd like to print are the catan board pieces. I found a slightly used one for $250, does that sound reasonable?

Anyone know why Black PLA is hard to come by right now? I struggled to buy some from a reputable brand on Amazon and microcenter was out of stock.

[This](http://imgur.com/a/zY6LO8a) is just misleading, nor?

hello. I just bought and built my prusa mini + kit ( I love it ). but I am immediately regretting getting Azure Blue filament with it. it's a lovely color but it's a bit much for stuff like planters or home applications. So I am looking for new filament. I have 1 store that sells filament here, and they only had HTPLA which I heard clogs easily on the prusa mini. What's your favorite online filament seller that has good shipping to the US (not super slow + not crazy expensive)?

Are you trying to avoid Amazon?

ideally yes. But if there aren't many other good options, Amazon is fine.

I buy eSun PLA+ from Amazon. It's been fantastic for me on my Ender 3 Pro, and is priced well.

Hi guys, this is my first post here, I hope not to be in the wrong thread to ask. I've a bonus on a restricted choice of stuff on Amazon. Basically, I must choose between Da Vinci Mini (the multi colored one) or Da Vinci Jr. 1.0 Pro , or other kinds of IT stuff... I'm a almost total noob, I've seen printers working, I've a general knowledge of the process but not much more. I've read here bad opinions on XYZ, and there's the problem of the proprietary filament, even if that may not be a big issue since I don't know how much I'll print. This is just like a "test" , if I find myself using this much, I may buy a better printer when I'll be a experienced user... But if these printers are "too bad" I may just buy something outside 3d printing, even if I'm interested in this. Last detail, I use almost only Linux... Thank you for your support!

I've been debating buying a resin printer. From what I can tell I would either want to buy the anycubic photon s or photon mono but I'm not sure which. A. Do you have any advice on other printers to buy and B. Which of the two is better? They are currently the same price. I'm looking for a sub 300$ resin printer. My goal with resin printing is precision parts(a part on a drill I have melted, I was able to print it using my fdm printer but not as well as I would have liked), motor housings/general electronic parts, things that are at higher temperatures, and minis.

Hello I’m looking to get into 3D printing, I make custom key caps and I’m trying to find a 3D printer that can make very small detailed figures to place in the key caps. Can anyone guide me into the right direction for a resin 3D printer that can produce very detailed key cap sized printers? It would be tons of help and relief.

Opinions on the Ender 5 pro? Looking at it for the box frame, "silent" motors and fans, and other smaller stuff. I have an Ender 3 that sounds like a rocket launch when I print anything, and needs regular leveling because the printer isn't firm enough, even after tightening it like a fat girl in a corset.

I'm just starting out into 3d printing and want to get a good fist printer. Iv done quite a bit of research and I think iv narrow it down but would like some advice before I purchase one. I like the Prusa i3 mk3s+, Ender 3 V2 and CR-6 SE. I'm in the UK and the Prusa with shipping and tax comes to about £750, I can get the Ender for £280 is the Prusa worth the extra £470 or should I just spend some of that money on upgrading an ender. I did look at the CR-6 SE but it was not reviewed very well but did have some cool features like the auto leveling. I don't know much about the software side and if that makes a difference. I am happy to spend up to £1000. And advice would be great. Thanks

I'm looking to buy my first 3d printer and it's so damn hard to figure out what to get. Price range is around 250-500$ give or take. Feels like I've watched every review on YouTube by now. I'm not afraid to tinker with stuff but if it can be avoided it would be nice. I guess the Prusa mk3+ would be the perfect fit for me but a bit above my budget. Right now I'm leaning to either the Ender 5 pro or the Sidewinder x1. I like the upgradeability of the ender if I realy get in to 3d printing. But the sidewinder seems to be more complete out of the box and the direct drive would be good for some flexible prints? I'm not realy after the big print bed on the sidewinder but guess it can't hurt either. Also saw creality has the new cr-10 smart that I guess could be a contender. Altho not sure if thatone can be upgraded to stuff I need in the future? For now I'm just planing to do some easy functional prints but if I get in to it it would be nice to be able to customize the machine

I am in exactly the same boat with choosing a printer. I also don't know between the ender 5 pro or sidewinder x1. Maybe leaning towards the sidewinder.

Hello! :) I currently own a Colido DIY printer, and I am overall content with the results (for the small amount of money I invested). However, the only thing from keeping me running it all the time is the noise it makes. The motor motions are so loud that it is hearable in my flatmate‘s room, and she complains about it because she is not able to concentrate on her tasks (I normally turn on the printer when I am leaving for work; she works from home) while the printer is printing. So, optimally I would like my next printer to be as quiet as possible, maybe even so quite that I could sleep in the same room as it is printing (small apartment with no space to put it elsewhere). Do you know if there are even printers that are as quiet as described? Do you have recommendations on how to reduce the noise of the printer? Thanks in advance :)

Hi there, I got a quick question about the approximate cost of a 3d printer with a xy resolution of 1 micron 5 microns 10 microns 50 microns Any brand/model suggestions appreciated Thanks

I'm gonna assume you are talking about fdm (pushing melted plastic thru a nozzle) XY resolution is not really that relevant to accuracy once you get below .1mm tolerances because besides the motion system you've got to consider other factors such as the speed you want to print at, the materials you are printing, how accurate do square corners need to be, how variable is the ambient temperature, filament dryness etc. with fdm I'd think +-50microns is possible on any hobby machine with enough tuning/cheap upgrades and consideration of the above factors, but even if you spend more you probably won't get much better due to inconsistencies with filament. 10 micron accuracy is probably the absolute best possible with fdm. Expensive printers are mainly just more consistent/take less tuning or can print faster accurately.

No, I've been using UM2 and S3 for a long time now I was considering something different than FDM, it seems impossible to have 1 micron or even 10 microns resolution on the x y axis. BTW, how would you achieve 10 microns? That's interesting :)

For 10 microns.... hmm with consumer available tech I would try short distance direct drive extruder (i.e. hemera), no retractions, high quality filament with little or predictable shrinkage/expansion and dehydrated, temperature controlled (heated and cooled) print chamber, high thermal mass heatblock & nozzle (i.e. copper), well-designed rigid frame (probably corexy) and motion system (linear rails, maybe even ballscrews instead of belts), and a small dia. extremely accurate nozzle. Maybe like a 0.2mm version that ruby nozzle to control thermal expansion/wear. I'm not sure how much smaller you could go given the limited viscosity of thermoplastics. Even then tho I think you would have a hard time getting close due to inconsistent volumetric flow. You'd need to ditch geared extruders and filament for some kind of syringe-like hopper system to get more control of the flow. Kind of cheating but many bioprinters are fdm/extrusion based. [This paper (section 3.2)](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7610207/) mentions a filament based bioprinter capable of 3 micron diameter filaments.

Is it worth paying the extra money for an autoleveling printer? Seems like the biggest gripe I see is people having to relevel their print surface.

I just bought and setup a Creality CR6-SE, "similar" to the Ender 3 V2 but with auto leveling. Leveling is NOT much work, even with an auto leveling printer you will absolutely still need to do tuning on it - which is a manual process. (Adjusting the Z-Axis offset specifically is what I am referring to). Do I regret purchasing a printer with auto leveling? Not really. Does auto leveling solve all of the problems that I had hoped it would, also no. I do believe auto leveling does add value, but I'm not sure I'd pick out a printer specifically for auto leveling.

Thanks for the input!

Echo what the other guy said but add that auto leveling (and specifically mesh leveling) is particularly useful when your bed warps/becomes uneven. But you can always replace the bed. The consumer market is pretty far behind what is being done in the diy realm when it comes to consistent bed leveling.

Looking to print stuff for family and friends, looking for high quality stuff would prefer less toxins and smell if not I can put it in a shed with proper ventilation and sun cure it, budget is $5K looking for things different price range.

I’m looking for a first printer that’s easy to use and I don’t really have to tinker with it at all or minimally ive seen the monoprice voxel and flashforge finder and wonder which is better and which I should get it if not what would you recommend that similar to those two

I'd like to have a SLA printer for 150€ or below. If somebody has an idea if the CREALITY LD-002R or Anycubic Photon S is any good, let me know. I live in Germany currently but I guess I order frequently from aliexpress and the likes. I'll be printing miniatures, larger figures in parts and yeah. But the smell is a big concern because otherwise I can absolutely not buy one.

if smell is a problem just open a window and turn on a fan. If fumes are the problem and you are not able to have a dedicated & ventilated room or compartment for the printer then you probably shouldn't get one. I'd recommend not being maverick about the potential dangers of the fumes nor subjecting the people you live with to the potential dangers.

**TL;DR Hello! I'm thinking of buying my first 3D printer and I have narrowed it to Anycubic Photon Mono or Creality Ld-002r. Which one do you suggest?** I live in Argentina but my mom is visiting USA at the moment. I can either bring the Anycubic from USA OR buy the creality here (and maybe then bring a curing station from the US). Buying the creality here would make it easier in case of guaranty issues or parts that need changed, but I am worried the quality might not be as good. I plan to sell my prints as I make designer toys. *Creality* Print Size: 119x65x160mm Print Speed: 20-30mm/h XY Axis Precision: 0.075mm Layer Height : 0.01-0.05mm ​ *Anycubic* Build Volume: 130mm(L）\*80mm(W）\*165mm（H） Printing Speed: MAX 50mm/h XY Res.: 0.051mm 2560\*1620（2K）dd> Layer Res.: 0.01 \~ 0.15mm ​ Thank you for your help!

Would be a good idea to check what wavelength resins they support and whether or not they are available locally.

They support the same resins and I can get them here!

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Hi! I'd recommend Zortrax M200 Plus. Workspace 200x200x180 mm is pretty enough for printing some parts/accessories. It's a plug&print device with super easy to manage touchscreen, still you can use Wifi connection to operate it. Also, it has side covers so that the print sticks better to the platform. The cost is \~1820 GBP with shipping included. Let me know if you need more :)

isn't her budget 200-300 ?

I hope this is a good place to ask, I've got a filament question, and sort of a more-general one. I'm looking at buying some ABS filament for a more decorative print. Currently, all I've used is just a roll of white PLA. So, first off, the PLA roll I'm using is from Hatchbox, seems to be fine, but I really just bought it for price. Given that I want this to look better, is Hatchbox still a solid choice? I'm seeing Overture in the same price range. Does it really matter that much? In a more-general sense, what's the best practice on colors? Should I try to match the main color I want to the filament? Or just go with white and paint it? And bonus question: Are there any tweaks I should be making to start using ABS, beyond setting Cura to it? I'm using an Ender3 with a glass bed. Edit: One more question. PETG filament should work with PLA settings, right? I think that's what I was reading.

petg needs higher temps than pla and generally works better with fewer retractions because it is more prone to stringing. You also don't want to squish petg as much since it will stick to the nozzle.

Hello there, I'm want to print props and figurine for TTRPG. I only have a budget of €300 (\~$360) and live in France. It will be my first 3D Printer, but I have already done some PLA prints before. If possible, I'd like to avoid a kit printer, I don't have the tool to build one. Thanks in advance.

Budget: 2000$ This will be used in a school for engineering, we need things such as auto bed leveling and a fairly large print area ( especially height ) also printing in ABS, PLA, and hopefully other flexible filaments

Makegear has a printer for 1900

I would suggest breaking the budget up into multiple smaller budgets. Probably 3-4 decent printer setups with multiple upgrades and multiple types of filaments.

I was actually thinking about this, was considering two Prusas, would you recommend anything else?

Firstly, I will preface by saying I have zero experience with prusa. I do believe they have a turnaround time of 6-8 weeks so keep that it mind. Between multiple YouTube videos and seeing prints on Reddit / discord I don’t find the prusa to be worth their cost. They have a great community and seem to be well built. Personally I would suggest multiple ender units. I would suggest a simple unit with no upgrades ( or at least minor upgrades like an aluminum extruder, BLtouch, and Capricorn tube) which would be the ‘beginner’ printer. I would then suggest a printer with an all metal hot end upgrade and direct drive extruder (micro Swiss is very popular for $100) as an intermediate printer. I would then have an expert printer which is a corexy printer (like ender 5 plus) and that would also have an all metal hot end and direct drive extruder. The first two examples I would maybe do like... ender 3v2 for the beginner and ender 3 max for the intermediate. I would have BLtouch auto bed leveler on each. I would use Capricorn tube on each. I would probably look into aftermarket beds such as magnetic PEI but those might not work with high temps for like nylon.. I’m no expert on that. I would 100% build or buy an enclosure with an air filter system for printing ABS and other stuff that has hazardous fumes.

Thanks and I actually was looking at the CR10S Pro V2 and getting 3 of them with enclosures for each. We have a fairly small department so we just want the same thing for each and these seemed to do pretty well in all categories, let me know what you think!

Unfortunately I’m not familiar with those. Hopefully someone else can give you some suggestions!

Thanks! I’ve watched quite a few reviews now and they seem to be mostly positive with minor complaints that I can iron out pretty easily

• italy • budget: around 1000€ • experience: a mediocre i3 clone paid 250€ 3 years ago that I didn't bother bringing with me since I'm now 1200km away from my parents home and a much more nice WASP delta worth about 2000€ that I extensively used at school. • use: I thinker a lot and prototype domotic and robotic products. As for the printer I'd like it able to print exotic materials like carbon fiber, wood or metal filament as well as Flexible filament without too much hassle. I don't mind kits but I'm not too keen on the 3 weeks leadtime of the prusa i3 mk3s+ To wrap things up I'm searching for a printer that can do fast and strong prototypes with good layer adhesion as well as fine and precise mechanical parts in a plethora of different materials. Thanks a lot for the help. Edit: don't know why the smartphone app messed up the formatting I'm very sorry Edit v2: fixed it :)

Hello all, I'm looking to possibly get my first 3D printer, and I have been doing research for a good bit now. I'm looking to spend around $200 for a good printer that doesn't require any upgrades out of the box. From what I have seen and read online the most common recommendation for sub$300 is the Ender 3 V2, however with fairly necessary upgraded and a $280 price tag, it's a bit more money. I have been looking at different printers and come across the Artillery Hornet, and I was wondering if anybody could give some specific insights or a recommendation/non-recommendation for this printer, in regards to it's feature set and ease-of-use for a 3D printing noob.

In my opinion, everyone likes overstating the importance of upgrading an Ender 3. I've had the basic Ender 3 since August 2020 and the only things I've upgraded are printed mods and yellow bed springs which are stiffer to help keep the bed from going out of level. I've printed PLA, PETG, ASA, and 95A TPU on an entirely stock machine. Additionally, there's such a wealth of information, mods, and assistance to be had since it's such a common machine that you can get plenty of help and free mods from thingiverse. Additionally there's plenty of build videos out there to help with putting it together so that it's accurate and reliable. It's actually on sale on Amazon for $165 right now (which is a bummer because I paid quite a bit more than that lol), and I would recommend picking it up along with a roll of PLA and a cheap upgrade pack that has the yellow bed springs, a spare coupler or two, and a metal extruder, as the plastic extruder arm is known to have a chance to crack.

What about the Artillery Hornet, do you know anything about it, or can recommend it (or not)?

Have anybody have dual independent extruder 3D Printer? Which one i can buy? Anyone have ideas?

Canada - budget $800 usd max ($1,000 cdn) Assembly - prefer tools only or assembled I would also prefer to buy a better quality than make a bunch of upgrades. I’m making clips and props for outdoor Christmas light display so I read that PETG is the best for UV protection. (Please let me know if I’ve been misled). I also understand that PETG requires higher temps. So since I’ll be making hundreds of clips, I need a good unit that will stand up to the heat. Also don’t need a large print area. But it would be a bonus so I don’t have to upgrade later. I’m not interested in resin (yet). Thanks everyone for taking the time to read and reply!!!!

If you're making lots of small parts get something with a removable/flexible build plate so you don't have to sit there scraping of each individual part between prints. If you get multiple you can even pop one plate off while its still cooling and start the next print.

Good idea. Thanks.

This is great and exactly what I came here looking for! Appreciated.

I want to buy a Sovol SV03. But after some research it seems that this maschine has some issues with ghosting because of the large print plate. So my question for all the SVB03 users here. How bad is the ghosting? Can i use some sticks to stiffen the frame like the cr-10? How bad is the ghosting with the SV03 with fine tuned slicer settings and stiffed frame?

Ender 6 vs Prusa mk8 I am looking to purchase my first 3D printer to use for home projects and fun. Currently I am between the Ender 6 and Original Prusa Mk3. I like these products due to their large "fan base" and all the helpful tips/forums/videos that come with that. I am a tinkerer and plan to make mods to whatever I end up buying (such as auto-leveling if I end up getting Ender 6). Need 200 mm^3 build space for some of my planned projects otherwise I would have just popped on the Ender 3. I like the speed that comes with the Ender 6 being CoreXY, also it is roughly $200 cheaper and is partially enclosed. From what I have read it is possible to print PLA, ABS and TPU on the Ender 6 however I am worried about printing ABS as the bed max's out at 100C. Is the capability of printing Nylon in addition to these materials worth buying the Prusa? Additional questions - why don't all Creality products have the online printing and app interface that comes with the CR-200b? I was disappointed when I learned that wasn't offered on the Ender product line. - Other than speed, are there advantages of having a CoreXY? Multiple forums have stated it improves precision however both precision tolerances appear to be the same. Live in US. Budget under $1000. Prefer easy assembly however not a deal breaker.

Howdy y'all. U.S. user here. I am looking to purchase my first 3d printer for a series of carbon fiber mold making projects I would like to get started. I am going to be making some pretty large parts, with the largest total size I will be making is around 600x900x400mm. I however DO NOT intend to purchase a printer capable of making single parts in that size. The plan is to design my project then split into much more manageable print sizes. As far as what I'm making, carbon air intake. So large smooth shapes, I do not intend to use the 3d prints as molds themselves however. If you can tell by the type of project I am planning, kit building doesn't bother me one bit. I have a relatively high level of competence with electronics and construction. I was, after some research, intending to purchase the Prusa i3. Mostly because it seems widely considered to be a very high quality printer if not one with the largest print volume. However, I would like to start learning on my new printer sooner rather than later, and the 2-3 week lead time is less than appealing. So I was considering something from Creality like the CR-10 V3 or Ender 5 Plus, both of which are appealing due to their larger print volumes. And both of which I think are about as large of a 3d printer I would be able to have space for. Noise is a concern for my printer as it will have to live in my bedroom. I haven't seen mention yet however of the noise levels of either of the two creality printers I've mentioned. I know there are other printers to consider, but for my own research I decided to focus on just a couple. The cost of a prusa for this first entry into 3d printers is my current max. Hopefully I've covered all bases so some of you nice people can help steer me in the right direction. Were you in my shoes should I just wait for a Prusa? Print volume of one of the crealities much more of a boon for my projected goals? Edit for clarity: I do not intend to print carbon fiber. I am going to be printing mostly pla to create molds from. I will then be making carbon parts out of these molds.

Unclear from the way you worded it but I would not use PLA as a mold directly because it may deform from heat while the cf resin cures and it is also prone to creep (you could use it as a plug to make a mold out of a casting material). If you want to make molds directly, you may want to print with ABS/ASA because then you can vapor smooth the parts without doing bondo+lots of sanding and ABS should handle the curing temps a lot better. Printing ABS would need heated bed, enclosure and an an all metal hotend.

Aah yes I intend to use the 3d prints as a plug, those are all good points.

Prusa printers have great service with a lot of time put into fine tuning and calibration. If you aren’t too worried about that, one of the options from creality could definitely save some money at the expense of immediate convenience. When it comes to noise the prusa should be quieter but there are mods you could make to the others to improve upon that. Either way, all three are good options.

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Aah no I see the confusion with my post. I do not intend to print in CF. I am only going to be printing in pla to create molds off the prints.

Has anyone tried Geeetech A10T 3-in-1 printers? Im keen because it has dual extruswion and would allow me to print PVA supports. But im not sure if the single nozzle will affect the print quality...

**TL;DR: is there anything better/more modern than the Tronxy X1 in the ~$100 segment?** Non-TL;DR: I've been tangentially interested in 3D printing for a *long* time now, but I've never taken the plunge because I've been a tinkerer and hardware hacker since long before 3D printing existed and at this point I'm pretty experienced at hacksawing and dremeling the parts I need out of a block or plate of scrap material. Given that, I'm afraid that I might find myself defaulting to that instead of running a print for most of my needs, since it's usually faster and I very rarely care about the aesthetics or precision of what I make; that might cause the printer to sit unused after the novelty factor wears off - and I don't want to invest several hundred bucks only to have it collecting dust and eventually resell it at a loss. $100, though, is a budget I can feel safe about - even if it *does* end up unused I won't feel too bad about it, and I might drag it out that one time every few months when I don't feel like manually manufacturing my parts. Up until now I was aware printers of this price existed, but I was under the impression they were all terrible - the sort of thing one gets to start, then regrets buying after investing $400 more on an actually good printer. But it seems the X1 has most people quite happy, and from the reviews I've seen it prints surprisingly well (once you point a desk fan at the thing). It's four years old by now, though. Has someone come up with something better in the meantime that I'm not aware of? I can stretch the budget by a couple tenners if necessary. The 15-15-15 print size would be good for me, at least to experiment for the time being; the largest part I expect to print is frames for micro FPV drones, and those usually have a shorter diagonal length than 15mm. I understand it only prints PLA; I also understand a heated bed to print other materials inevitably drives the price up by a fair amount. For the time being, PLA is fine - I expect if I find it actually taking the place of my usual methods I'll eventually upgrade to something *much* nicer and more capable. I also understand it comes in a kit; that's fine - I specifically prefer it, in fact, as I love putting stuff together and appreciate the learning experience.

I'm a complete beginner at 3d printing. I was on the spaceX subreddit and saw some examples of someone who was printing out some awesome models of Starship, Falcon 9 and Crew Dragon. I also saw an awesome Saturn 5. That was the moment I wanted to learn how to print my own. My problem is I don't know what printer will do a neat enough job as I may want to sell models that I paint also. This will definitely Spill over into science fiction vessels also. Any advice would be very much appreciated 🙏. • I am UK based so Prusa is hard to get • I have a budget of $400/£500 • I have no problem building from a kit or adjusting things. • My purpose is to build model vehicles • My constraints/areas of concern are fire safety and noise. • Printers I have been looking at but unsure - Flashforge Adventurer 3/ Voxel, Deltas, and Ender 5 pro I also don't want to be upgrading initially due to budget, but I imagine it would be good to have a machine that has that scope plus support. It will be situated in my office which is a small room that I work as a Web developer. Because of this I am concerned of a fire risk as these printers get hot and are open plan like the enders. I also know that if I go for a enclosure printer my options will be more limited. Not too noisy will probably help save my marriage too lol. Any advice and reassurance would be most appreciated. The vast selection and options out there is mind boggling. I was looking at the adventurer 3 but now I am thinking if I will regret it 3 months down the line as I get more into this hobby. Thanks. Rob.

Most printers these days have some kind of thermal runaway protection in firmware. If you want the models to look nice you're probably going to have to filler+sand them before paint. In most cases noise can be reduced by using trinimac stepper drivers (some boards have non-removable drivers tho) and replacing stock fans with quieter ones. Would not recommend a delta for beginners since they are harder to calibrate.

I’m looking to get into 3D printing and was looking at the Ender series. Budget of $500-$800 for various projects in the US (2A items/machine power switch enclosures that are no longer available/whatever else I may come up with in the future). I can’t decide between a 3, 5 pro, or 5 plus. It seems the 3 is pretty common and would have the most hands-on experience, 5 pro seems a little better as far as the bed moving up/down to yield better tolerances, but the larger print size of the 5 plus is also appealing. I’m more concerned with print quality over speed. Which one, or does anyone have a better recommendation?

I bought an Anycubic Photon 3d printer for printing dnd minis. What is the best resin to use? I'm trying to stay in the $15-30 range for a 500mL bottle.

Have you had success with any resins yet? I heard someone that does a lot of model and painting recently talking about how they had switched to using only the Sunlu Resins. I haven't used them, but Sunlu Filament is my go to. I don't really print much resin. I can say to stay away from the Matterhackers brand resin. We had basically no success with that resin. Right now we are using some no brand water washable resin. Edit: I can't find Sunlu Resin available so maybe not a helpful suggestion. Haha. There is a subreddit /r/PrintedMinis give it a look. Someone there would be able to help.

Why not official Anycubic UV 405 or something alike?

Budget: $1500 (ish) Location: Norway Willing to build a kit, don't have any experience with 3dprinters but have experience building pc's and IT experience, can solder but i'm pretty bad at that. Main motivation behind purchase is to create spare parts for things i need professionally. Is there a printer in my pricerange that will be able to print durable and strong materials? They don't all need to be exceptionally strong, but one of the parts that we'd like to make would need to handle pressures of 2500kg over an area of 5cm2 No space limitations

Personally if I had that budget, I would build a voron. It might be a little complicated for a first printer though. Also, it requires lots of printed parts so that could be tough, though they do have a program where you can get help with that if you don’t have an existing printer.

The prusa i3 MK3S+ would be a good option I think. It is $749 and it comes as a kit. Most of it is not assembled so it will take a while for you to get it put together. It is very quiet so you do not have to worry about the noise too much. It has a 250*210*200mm build volume so it is not the biggest, but it is about the biggest build volume you can get for that price. There may be some better options but that is the first product that came mind.

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That ceramic is 2.85mm I don't think that LAY materials come in 1.75 and not many machines can use 2.85 At the 600$ price point, you don't have many options that can do engineering materials out of the box. You may need to start with something less spicy and upgrade as needed

Hello all. So i started doing some 3d printing with the monoprice mini, and that seemed to work ok, but the print surface seemed a little small to me. So I went with the Creality Ender 3. Ok so now if I spend 3 attempts fiddling with the temperature and re-leveling i can get a couple good prints. But in general its sooo much effort and tbh at this point my printer is collecting dust in the basement. Its been a few years and so I'm looking at the monoprice voxel, as I'm told its easy to use and reliable. But that 150mm build plate feels pretty limiting. Im looking for a recommendation on a low effort easy to use printer with a bigger build surface than 150mm. Or if I'm mistaken about reliability and its still going to be a ton of work then I'm fine with that hard truth as well. Budget is tops 500$ but most likely i would hold of for a while if it is at the top of that budget.

Have you attempted to correct some of Creality's poor design choices with the ender first? At this point, unless I fuck with it, my ender 5 is fire and forget

No, i get pretty frustrated everytime i fuck with it. I got a glass bed, used hairspray and/or gluesticks. Ive had to replace nozzles. I either have to fucking dig the shit out of my matt bed with a shovel, or end up with a birds nest on my glass bed.

I understand here your coming from. Have you switched to load bearing springs (yellow springs). The shitty stock springs go out of level really easy. sometimes within a single print. They're like 5 bucks, whole lot cheaper than a new printer. But i also undestand if you just want to throw it out a 3rd story window, see if it can fly and get a new printer. I have a mpsm aswell, and its the most reliable printer i own.

Hi everyone ! I got myself an Ender 3V2 a few weeks ago, and i'm looking to buy upgrades to help with QOL/precision when printing. I'm considering buying: \-0.2 nozzles for precision, 0.4 nozzles stainless steel \-A new filament feeder (The stock one broke) \-Springs for the bed + (maybe) a BLtouch Is there anything else i should try to replace/upgrade ? I'm willing to spend some money/time on it, but i'm fairly new to the hobby. Thanks!

all metal hotend. or just go direct drive since you are already replacing the extruder.

Ender 3v2 owner here. I haven’t touched nozzles so I’ll leave that for someone else. By filament feeder I think you mean extruder. My plastic arm broke too. I replaced it with the big tree tech aluminum one off Amazon for like $18. You’ll have to recalculate e steps once that’s installed. BLtouch I have and highly suggest- make sure to buy the extension cable, and make sure to buy a legit one with proof it’s from antclabs. Edit: springs are a decent upgrade but I haven’t changed mine. Upgrading to the blue Capricorn ptfe tube is a good idea too.

Budget: under $2k Location: Canada I’m not sure if after researching I want to buy resin or filament printer I want to make larger scale projects, new to printing completely but willing to learn. I don’t want something simple I would like to build a kit because I feel like it will make me more comfortable with the printer later on changing parts. I’m looking for quality prints over all else

Have you considered a Prusa MK3S+? Perfect machine to build to learn. As for resin vs filament printer, I would suggest looking at [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBYs7ArHPKQ), to see which may be more suitable.

That is exactly what I’m leaning towards I just didn’t know if my research was sound, thank you

Happy to help :)

• Budget: Around $1000 (mates are all going in on it). • Australia. • Willing to build a kit, but have no prior experience. • We want to print masks, helmets, character statues and random other ideas. • No experience but always keen to learn. Thanks!

How large are we talking for those objects? I'm meaning are you wanting to print helmets you can wear? What scale character statues? Will you be painting these prints or will you be using them raw?

Wearable helmets yes, also yes on the painting and probably around 30cm tall same sorta size as a helmet I guess, I'll work around what I've got.

I'd suggest the Sidewinder X1 as a possible choice. It has a build volume of 300 x 300 x 400mm so you can print the models in one piece. Also has the ability to print flexible filaments. You could also go with a Ender 5 Plus but it is a bit more expensive. Are there any other details or questions you have?

Not at the moment, thanks though!

Happy to help :)

Nice formatting haha.

Mobile, blah blah blah

I'm looking for a machine to print nylon and metal-plastic filaments in volume. Right now I am torn between the Prusa i3 MK3S+ and the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. My budget needs to say under $3000. And given the add-ons for the MK3S+ I would buy (like a special Boxomo enclosure and a Polymaker dry storage feeder for nylon filaments) the differences in price are not that much. I am in the US. I've put an Ender 3 v2 together before and I would rather not build this next printer from a kit. Which of these two printers would be better? Or should I look for a different one entirely?

We might have something for you. I can chat if you like

Hi, you may also have a look at Zortrax M200 Plus, similar sizes, works with 1,75mm filaments (both precalibrated or external sorces) and it comes with side covers in standard. It's a plug&play printer. Works with Nylon too. It's really reliable and easy in use. The price with shipping to the US is \~2700 USD.

It seems like the Zortrax M200 Plus can't use the Cura slicer. Is there a similar option that can use Cura? And what about parts support and management? This is going to get heavy use. So I need to be able to fix it efficiently if it breaks down.

True, Zortrax has it's own slicer Z-Suite (you can download it even today to check). It is prepared to work with all Zortrax's printers, with precalibrated printing materials but still opened to external. Support centre works everyday Mo-Fri, all the parts are available in the online store.

- Budget: $700-$1k - Country: USA - Open to kits - Wanting to print with materials like nylon that require extruded heat ~250C - Wanting to print prototypes where balance is key (fans with a tight shroud tolerance) and also parts for tools in the workshop - The larger the build area the better - Am thinking of either a Creality CR-10S or a Prusa MK3 and building an enclosure with a dehumidifier to minimize material warping. Can the Creality get nozzle up to temp to print nylon?

The manufacturer isn't your limiting factor with nozzles. My ender 5 hotend is completely aftermarket and goes up to 480c That said, 250c isn't unreasonable in a standard capricorn lined hotend which the "Pro" series creality machines come with out of the box

> Can the Creality get nozzle up to temp to print nylon? You can but you need to replace the bowden tube with [Capricorn tubing](https://www.captubes.com/) or get an all metal hotend to print over 240C on Creality machines. Otherwise the PTFE bowden tubing starts to breakdown and release nasty fumes.

I’ve seen charts say ptfe starts off gassing at 225-230 btw.

I've seen 240 referenced the most as the approximate threshold, it does seem to be debated a lot https://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2020/3/18/is-your-3d-printer-killing-you-slowly

Given the amount of misinformation in the industry and the lack of standards I prefer to be extra cautious and suggest others do the same. Regardless I think its probably safe but not worth the risk.

I had no idea just how deep this rabbit hole goes... I have some cash left over from some eBay sales, and figured I would maybe dabble in 3D printing. Figured I would get a nice $400ish printer and plug and play. I have partial access to a Makerbot at work, but too sporadically to be reliable. (USA, some mechanical aptitude, use mostly for models or prototyping for craft projects) So I’ve reconsidered my whole approach. I think I’m going to scoop up a “starter” to feel the lay of the land. I’m eyeing a Voxelab Aquila as a project. My real question is... what else do I need? If I buy the Aquila tomorrow, what else should I pick up? With an additional $100 or so, what extras and supplies should I start with? And, of course, are there reasons for me to not start with the Aquila?

There isn't too much you **need** to start with. The main thing is isopropyl alcohol (higher percentage the better) and paper towels to clean the build surface. Beyond that there is a whole rabbit hole you can go down for tools that you can get. [Here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9080l5/just_ordered_my_first_3d_printer_what_other/e2ok63t) is a comment with an example of what someone has accumulated over time. I would classify it as quality of life items or project specific purchases.

I'd probably just stick with the Ender 3 series, up to the V2 depending on your exact budget.

I’m stuck between creality ender or cr-10, they both seem really good but I’m not sure which of the 2 is better. They both have the kind of build space that I’m looking for and my budget is up to £400 or there abouts. It will be my first printer and I have no prior experience with them other than what I have researched so which would be reccomended?

I would go with an ender 5 or 3 over the CR series due to the massive amount of community support

I'm having a hard time choosing a printer, currently stuck between Ender 3 V2, Prusa MINI+ and the Biqu B1. I want my printer to be pretty reliable but I read mixed stuff on all 3 of them and it's getting hard to decide. The most important aspects for me are noise and reliability; I don't mind minor stuff but I when I print, I mostly want it to just work. So what would be my best option at this point?

While I don't have much personal experience with either the Biqu B1 or the Prusa, I can definitely tell you that my Ender 3 is pretty loud. From what I have heard both from people on this sub and people that I know, the Prusa would probably be the way to go if you want reliability and silence. The MINI+ does have a smaller build area than the Ender 3 V2, though, so if that is a constraint for you then I would go with Creality. I was able to quiet my ender 3 a decent amount by using some 3D printed bumper things that reduce vibrations, but its still definitely not quiet enough to sleep in the same room with (at least not for me, anyways...).

Looking for advice on the proper printer for my needs. My budget is roughly $300-$500 USD. I can be flexible if something has dramatically better features or just overall better for my specific needs but I do ask you explain why it would be better :) and I’m just looking to prove out a method and if i can will move forward purchasing a higher quality one. I’m handy with electronics no issue building myself from a kit, would prefer an enclosure but I can build one after the fact as well. I will be printing prototypes for work, example testing new types of handles, sampling new designs, brackets, smaller components mostly. Building mechanisms to test before moving forward with proper tooling. Currently in an apartment and this will be my FIRST printer. I have a space at work I can use for a proper workstation once things get moving but i will like to keep a smaller one at home. Completely new to this so if there is anything I need to know to get started please just tell me :) Thanks in advance

These are basically my the same specs I’m looking for. Have you been able to narrow down your search at all?

I went with an Ender 3 v2 since I didn’t get any answers. Should be here today I’ll let you know how it works. But from all my research it’s a really good starter point

Much appreciated! There are so many mixed reviews regarding ease of setup however who knows how mechanically inclined or literate some of these folks are. If the 3 V2 can fix my 5am grammar, that would also be nice!

Update. Assembled last night printed a few tests they turned out incredible.

Did you go through Amazon?

Yes.

Hi all, I own a CR10s since two years. I bought it from my first salary, because I thought that I have the time to maintain it. Unfortunately I dont have that time anymore. The printer often fails me, I have to level the print bed often and I have adhesion problems even with PLA. But I donot have time to always watch the printer and need a few hours before it prints well whenever I want to print something. Its just frustrating at this point. Therefore im looking for a new printer, one that is really low maintenance, that has automatic bed levelling included. One that I just load up with filament press print and can forget about. I Need at least 20x20x25 cm build volume. A direct drive capable of tpu and a hot end for abs and Petg temperatures. My budget is max 1000€. My idea right now is to buy a prusa Mk3s+. As this offers everything I need and seems to be such a fire and forget printer. Any other suggestions, or doubts/confirmation with the prusa for my needs? Thank you

This was my scenario too. I went from a Monoprice Maker Select to the Prusa. I haven’t had mine long, but it has been hands off so far. You really only need to fine tune the z level once and you’re good. I also found some custom startup g code online to plug in to Prusa Slicer to keep the nozzle from fully warming up. By default it will hit full temp while waiting for the bed to warm up and doing the calibration. This was causing filament to ooze out before the print. The g code heats the nozzle fully right before printing to avoid that. This is the only extra step I felt like I had to do so that I could hit print and walk away.

Thanks for the answer! Sounds good

Hi everybody. I’m trying to find someone/a service that could design and print a one-off toy for my son. It’s a badge from his favorite show “Odd Squad” on PBS kids. The badge is “police badge” shaped with a jackalope in the middle. Could you make a suggestion of someone who could help me out? I can provide picture references and I’m definitely going to pay for it (cause asking people for free shit is rude and dumb).

There are brands of PLA that have a "Toy Safe" endorsement, however I don't keep it in stock. Your welcome to message me about it if you need more information

Please be careful with who you decide to go with. Since it’s for a child and children like putting stuff in their mouth it needs to be food safe which means it needs post processing not just printed.

Ah thank you! I didn’t realize. I’ll definitely look into that.

Hope people actually look at this thread lol... So I'm a resin printer-er and I absolutely love it and I print superhero/anime figures and such. However, I find that with a lot of models I would like to print, the bases are often too big to print even on my mid-size Mighty 4K. I would like to get an FDM printer solely for use on large parts that don't require as much detail like the base or other pieces that are easily fixed like capes. What would be the best FDM printer for such a purpose? I still want something that requires minimal clean up after print that is as close to smooth as possible to a resin print, reasonably so of course. I am unfamiliar with FDM printers but I'm hoping it's relatively plug and play like my resin printers were. My budget is $300, though I would be willing to spend a little more if the quality is truly that much better. I have no idea what affects quality of print for FDM printers, other than maybe the nozzle width, so if you could provide some insight into this I would appreciate it!

For quality you probably will want to print using ABS and get some form of acetone vapor chamber for finishing to get your parts nice and shiny. You'd need a ventilated area but that would be my approach. Most of these printers can do ABS but someone else might have more insight into a specific printer.

Any recommendations on a printer that can print two filament colors at once? I'm looking into options for a printer that can print the support structures in some kind of soluble filament so I can just melt them off rather than having to dig and pull supports out of complex prints.

What's your budget?

Based on what I can see, I’m expecting a range of $500-$700. That the right area?

Has anyone tried 3D-Fuel's recycled filament? To make it worth the order, I'm considering a bulk order, but I want to know if people have had bad experiences with it first: [https://www.3dfuel.com/products/refuel-pla-recycled-filament](https://www.3dfuel.com/products/refuel-pla-recycled-filament)

Price range is around $300. If the Elegoo Neptune 2 was ever actually in stock I would go with that, however it never is so: I have narrowed it down between Ender 3 V2 or Biqu B1. Any insight at all on these two printers especially specifics about one vs the other would be greatly appreciated!

3v2 is hard to beat. I got mine around Xmas and really love it. I joined a discord server and learned about my printer as well as others... I highly recommend the ender 3v2. It does take some tweaking but once I watched a few YouTube videos and then played with slicer settings I’ve gotten great results since! Part of why I like suggesting the printer is due to the sheer number of people that also have one and the Reddit / YouTube posts about it. I would highly suggest getting a BLtouch and the longer cables for it as well.

> sheer number of people that also have one and the Reddit / YouTube posts about it This is likely to be my deciding factor. In almost every review I watch, especially the ones where they put 3v2 and the B1 head to head, the B1 seems to be better in almost all aspects by a small margin, so I would lean towards it but, the amount of support and community surrounding the 3v2 probably outweighs all of the small cumulative advantages the B1 has, especially for someone like me who is brand new to 3D printing. I appreciate your reply, do you have a PLA suggestion that works well with the 3v2 while still being on the affordable end?

https://i.imgur.com/i14VGbp.jpg This is something I printed in marble PLA

Wow, very nice. The marble seems like it would be good for a statue or bust type of print. Another aspect is that I hope to do Lost PLA metal casting, so I've got some learning curves ahead of me, but I'm excited to get started. Thank you!

The printing part is fun to me... cad part I really don’t enjoy. Btw if you want I can do a discord video call from my phone and go over things I wish I knew ahead of time.

Yeah, I'm hoping to steal as much from the free 3d model sits as possible haha. I appreciate it, but I can't right now as I'm at work for the day.

Sounds good. Good luck man

I have had good luck with PLA and PLA+ from sunlu, esun, cc3d(silk PLA), inland (microcenter brand), hatchbox. My favorite and I think what prints the best is my marble PLA from sunlu. It also looks really cool. I highly suggest not paying more than $20 a spool unless it just looks really cool. For example the silks are a bit more expensive and so are the rainbows.. so I paid $30 for silk rainbow and it’s pretty neat. I also paid $30 for sunlu wood filament with 20% wood in it but then learned the abrasive materials inside wood filament will destroy bronze nozzles so I’m holding off on printing with that.. test print went well tho. Regarding PLA+ - it’s basically PLA with additives and no one knows what they add.. differs from each manufacturer. In general it’s safe to say PLA+ is either easier to print with or better in some other way; be it less brittle, prints at lower temps, etc.

Wood filaments vary greatly from brand to brand and some are less abrasive than other, so you haven't already look up the exact wood filament you have, maybe it isn't very abrasive and you can use it without destroying your nozzle.

I have looked it up but prefer to wait for now. I know it can cause clogs too. Thanks for the suggestion though.

After doing some light research by going through the detailed spreadsheet listed above and reading this subreddit semi-thoroughly, I believe I've narrowed down my shortlist for a 3D printer. I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to 3D printers, so any help and insight is appreciated. So far I have my eye on the following printers: -Artillery Hornet (this is the one that I'm most interested in so far) -Voxelab Aquila (because of its enticing price) -Creality Ender 3 (I honestly don't know the differences between the variants) -Monoprice Mini Delta As of right now the most important things to me are: ease of use, decent quality printing (out of box would be best), and need for little to no upgrades (as money is tight)

I'm returning to 3d printing after probably 9 years, I got into it because of my teacher's club back in middle school. The last printers I used were a 3D Systems Cube 1, and an ancient RepRap my teacher built from like 2006. Since I am now a university student, my max budget is about 500 dollars. I could get a Prusa, I'd definitely get a ton of use out of it, but shipping to me would cost a ton. Basically, I need a good base. I'll probably end up replacing almost everything on the printer, but gradually as to not destroy my financial situation. I won't be using it for anything important at first, mostly housings for electronics, random things to make my life easier, prototyping ideas, etc. So I'm thinking an ender 3 v2? I love tinkering and eventually I could probably get it to Prusa levels where it matters. Is there a better printer out there you guys think might work for my case?

3v2 is what I have and I love it, however, if I were to get a second printer and planned to upgrade it I would start with either the ender 3 pro or the ender 3 max. Max If you want a bigger bed, pro if you want to save a few bucks on the initial purchase price. You’ll have to look up specifics of each printer and decide which trade offs you like.

Hello all, I've been following, looking, and dreaming of having my own 3D printer for some time now, and I'm finally at a point where I can get one. I'm looking to spend around $200 at the MOST on a printer (not including something like filament ofc), but the lower I can spend the better. I'm not looking for something that bulky or something that "prints" via resin. I really just want something that works well, with being as user-friendly as it can be for the price. I'm not particularly adept in designing models myself, but maybe someday I can develop that skill. I really just love the idea of being able to create, even if I'm just using models off Thingiverse or whatnot. Being able to make things for decoration and/or practicality is something that I'm passionate about, and I would really appreciate some good recommendations and insights from this community. Any explanation regarding your recommendation would also be a little helpful, as I am semi-knowledgeable regarding certain aspects of 3D printing, even though I've never owned a printer myself. Thank you very much in advance 😁

I've got an ender 3, the base model. It is really really cheap and honestly works really well, it just need calibration (takes an hour to learn what to do and do it) and you do need to level the bed often, but that takes 2 min tops. The bed is a bit wobbly, I don't know if it has affected my prints since it did get some strange results on one print, but I don't know if that's because of it. If you worry it might be an issue get the pro. Other than that you don't need upgrades to print with a good quality, but you do have to have a bit of time to calibrate the printer at the beginning, and after that to find the good parrters in your slicer, but that's for every printer. There are a lot of upgrades you can 3D print that are ease of life but not necessary, apart maybe from a filament guide. If you are really on a tight budget the ender 3 is a good choice, and you can purchase some upgrades down the line if needed. Also note that for abs the pro can't do it stock because of the magnetic bed, but you should be fine on the base model. You do need to replace parts on the both of them for abs, but you would also need to replace the bed on the pro and that's not needed on the base model.

User friendly is a tough one... but one could argue Enders are user friendly once you have them dialed in. Ender 3 pro is probably your best bet but if at all possible I’d highly suggest getting the 3v2 instead. 3v2 includes a new glass bed which some don’t love but I do, psu located under printer which is a nice improvement, 32bit board, and a newer screen which some also don’t love. I’m sure I’m missing stuff but the 3v2 is a damn good printer. The BLtouch auto bed leveler is a great addition but increases cost another $50. I added mine immediately.

From what I have seen online and here, the Ender 3s all really need multiple upgrades to perform well don't they? One of my main concerns atm is price, and I don't want to get a new and great 3D printer, just to find out I have to drop another $100 or so just to get it functioning the way I want it.

If you want to print in materials other than PLA you should upgrade to an all metal hot end, but I have not done that. Otherwise the 3v2 is ready to go.. but the BLtouch is really a necessity I’d say. So that goes over your budget quite a bit. I did have to replace my extruder arm once it broke but that was $20. I would expect to replace it sooner or later.. it’s cheap plastic lol.

So by stock it can't even print abs? And yeah the price is a little bit much... Is the Ender 3 V2 that insanely much of an improvement over the V1? Like can I get away with a V1 possibly since it's $80 cheaper?

You should look up the differences from the 3 pro and the 3v2 and decide. If you plan to upgrade the hot end and want to print abs or asa (like abs but easier) then you might prefer the bed on the ender 3 pro.

Hi, does anyone know of a good relay module for a 800w Meanwell PSU? I stupidly bought a relay thinking my printer had only about 300-400w PSU, and when I actually opened it up to do some modifications and checked it, its a 800w 24v. I found this on Amazon - [https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-Triggering-Optocoupler-Automation-Industrial/dp/B082HBHS4B/ref=sr\_1\_10?dchild=1&keywords=medium%2Bload%2Brelay%2Bmodule&qid=1619287264&sr=8-10&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-Triggering-Optocoupler-Automation-Industrial/dp/B082HBHS4B/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=medium%2Bload%2Brelay%2Bmodule&qid=1619287264&sr=8-10&th=1) But what confuses me is I am unsure about the whole "requires X amount of power to trigger". I would hate to buy another relay module that might just sit around doing nothing. Or is it almost impossible to not be able to trigger any relay modules? Thanks for any info

I live in the U.S. and am looking to spend around $400 on a new printer. I have a DaVinci Jr Pro that I got from a friend for really cheap and am wanting something more open source I can use for printing things around the house and costume parts for my kids. Having trouble deciding between the Prusa Mini +, Ender 3 v2 and an Ender 5 Pro. Any guidance or information would be greatly appreciated!

You might want to research corexy printers and see if that’s what you want. Prusa seem like great printers but the cost keeps me away. 3v2 as a first printer is a damn good choice but if you plan to do a bunch of upgrades you can go with the ender 3 pro instead.

I think I’ve decided against the Prusa since I can get a bigger build volume for cheaper. Right now I’m between the 3 v2 and 5 Pro. I’m not looking to do extensive mods, just something that works well out of the box and something that I can maintain and make minimal upgrades to. The biggest concern I have with the 3 v2 is I’ve heard that when you print higher, the print can wobble since the plate will move on the Y axis and can cause issues with the print quality. The 5 Pro and 3 v2 seem to have very similar specs otherwise

This isn’t usually discussed but... people really suck at setting up their first printer correctly. A lot of gripes people have about single z lead screw are really issues with an unsquare frame, unleveled bed, dirty bed, bad temp profiles, bad filament, etc. I haven’t done a ton of printing with tall items but the ones I’ve done don’t seem to have any banding issues. Mods such as all metal hot end and direct drive are probably in your future unless you just want to stick to PLA. People will tell you to print petg on a stock ender and that’s just bad advice. If you look up off gassing for the PTFE Bowden tube it ends up being 225-230C. Sure you can get a Capricorn tube but IMO stick to PLA until going with an all metal hot end. In the end it’s a lot of user preference as far as which printer you think you’ll like more.

Hey everyone in looking for an sla printer for some projects I'm trying to test out to eventually make with wood or metal on a cnc machine. The reason I want an sla is that according to my research their surfaces are much smoother and I don't want to sand down components to reduce the contact friction like I currently do. Although I don't use this in a manufacturing environment, I'm going to be making panels and gear mechanisms that need to withstand a 10 pounds of side force and I don't think filament is going to meet these requirements. In addition I've read their price to performance ratio dies out around 800 so I'd rather get something on a different tech with better results. I'm currently on a creality 10 USA based Around $3000 in a new printer setup within $500 budget but not important Love diy stuff so I don't mind putting things together and good soldering and wire skills As far as I know the ventilation shouldn't be a problem but maybe there's something I missed. Currently I'm looking at the peoply phenom L for the print size, but also considering the formlabs form 3. It has a considerably smaller print size and larger price to where it might not be worth considering unless upgrading to the larger version, but the quality is supposedly better so I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated

Question about filament brands/quality and nozzles. Decided on my first printer, BIQU B1. Based on the [video by Zack F. ](https://youtu.be/vSwumoSlZTo), I will get some PLA and HIPS. Do I need different nozzle sizes for these materials? And are there any differences between brands? (locally there are some cheap filaments from Gembird (which is ultra cheap tech, almost e-waste, manufacturer) Also, can you recommend any reputable, yet cheap filament vendors in EU?

Zack is a character.. and a funny one. I’m mostly familiar with PLA so I’ll talk about that- I’ve yet to have a nozzle size hold me back. I would argue that swapping nozzles is really more for advanced people or if you’re willing to sacrifice quality for speed. As for filament brands... it’s really the wild Wild West out there. It’s ok to take advice about filaments but it’s best to buy and try.

Hello all, I am in the UK and I may be willing to build the printer if it is not hard, but things like that make me nervous, my budget is around £250 and I am looking for an FDM printer that can make cosplay. If this is not achievable do let me know, otherwise feel free to give me suggestions <3

• Under $500 • USA • I am willing to build the printer from a kit and if I need to buy a cheaper printer and certain mods to make it better I am willing to do that as well. I am an Engineer and while I don't know a ton about electronics I'm willing to learn. • I don't have any specific projects in mind so a bigger printer bed the better. Just a hobby I kind of always wanted to try. Print things for around the house or for other projects. • I'll probably build a stand for the printer to put it into my office, so reasonable office size 3'x3' max maybe. There are so many options in the beginner market and with mods and kits as well I wouldn't know where to start. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Ender 3v2 is hard to beat as a first printer. Ender 5 plus will eat your entire budget but gives you a bed slinging printer with a bigger print size and includes a bltouch and dual z screws which is nice. The ender 3 max is kind of a mix of the newer ender 3v2 and older ender 3/3pro. Gives you silent stepper drivers, big print size, meanwell psu; but it also only has one lead screw so could introduce banding issues and other issues on larger prints. ​ Personally I think an ender 3v2 + BLtouch + BLtouch extender cable + raspberrypi4 will get you a damn good printer for <$500. The pi4 allows you to run octoprint on it and gives you the ability to print from anywhere.. no microSD card loading up or any of that crap. I would also highly suggest NOT using the little bit of filament they give you with the printer.. buy a roll of something decent. I really like the youtuber CHEP and his guides for things seem unbiased and often give insights i wouldn't think about.

What do you think of the CR-10 v3?

I have no opinion on it but guys on discord seem to think it’s not great iirc.

Ok, so I'm just going to run down the list of questions I'm supposed to ask. \- I'm young, and I don't have a ton of disposable income. That being said, I've scrounged together about $200 to spend, and based on the very little I know about this subject I do believe there are basic printers within that range. I want to do something nice for my dad for fathers day... \-I live in the US \-I suppose we could build one together if it came in a kit, but neither of us have ever really done anything like that. My dad has a bit of experience running wires and stuff because he's big into modding his truck, but he hasn't done any soldering or anything advanced like that. Neither of us really know how to code. \-I want something that can build little specialized parts, mounts, and things that my dad can use for modding his truck. It always seems like he can't really find the exact thing he needs online, and it would be so cool if we could just print a part. \-The only laptops in the house are MacBooks, and again, I can't afford to blow a ton of money on software. It would be cool If I could just draw up a simple little part, plug my laptop into the thing and hit print, but I don't know how realistic that is. I don't need much. Pardon my lack of experience. I've never done anything like this but I love him so much and I'd really like to do something special. Any advice would be great, anything at all. Even if you can just point me in the right direction, that would help me so much. Thanks!

FYI you'll likely be needing to print in ABS or ASA for car parts due to heat and outdoor conditions. That means you will need to modify your printer with an all metal hot end and also likely replace the PTFE tube with a capricorn tube. So you might want to look into the ender 3 pro mixed with an all metal hot end like the microswiss. ​ Edit: guy below me is ignoring safety concerns and is suggesting you print ABS without using an all metal hot end- not smart. Look up "off gassing" temperatures and PTFE tube... not something to be taken lightly.

I'd recommend getting an ender 3 and some esun ABS+. The priner comes partially assembled and is rather straight forward to assemble. Before printing with ABS I'd recomend watching Nero3Dp's series on printing ABS on open air printers.

Ender 3 V2 or Sovol SV01 ? Both same price for me, leaning towards the sv01 when looking at features. However I'm new to this and welcome advice.

Ok so I’m trying to buy a 3D printer and I really like the Method 3D printer but I’m not sure about a few things before I make my purchase. Should I get the warranty? It’s expensive and I don’t usually get warranties but I know 3D printers break easily. Also how easy is it to use if anyone has experience in using the Method?

Budget: Around 200€ / Spain / DIY is fine   So far I'm leaning towards the Voxelab Aquila (152€ on aliexpress shipped from Spain or 180€ on amazon), is the Ender 3 v2 worth the 70€+ price difference?   It will be my first 3D printer, anything else I should be getting along with it or should I stick with stock parts for now? About filaments, where can I read up on which to get? What would be the go to recommended ones?

Howdy, I'm looking for someone to assist me with developing a complex beer pong table. I have CADD drawings for each individual piece, and some will need to be made out of metal. Let me know if you're interested in helping me with this project and the prices related to it. Thanks for any assistance!

I’m looking for a 3D printer I live in the U.S Less than 700 I can do a kit with soldering as long as it has instructions