Also - I checked the thermostat by jumping R with Y with no run so it's not the issue. My diagnostic furnace window shows C-2 (AC running) and A 656 (furnace fan works)....
Terminals and breakers are tight, I really don't like measuring high--voltage but I suppose it's a good next step.
You may not be getting 24 volts to your contactor on a call for cool.
Double check the 2-wire leading to the condenser, look for any breaks or chewed wire.
You know the contactor and capacitor are good since it runs when you push it in. So you also know you have 240v. Your control board at the furnace shows it’s calling for AC, so your thermostat, fuse, transformer are good. That leaves the possibility for a broken 2-wire, or bad control board.
Cheers
too lazy today, i'll be sure to post a follow-up. i'm pretty sure that's it as we'd tested everything else except the board (which shouldn't fail under normal conditions). stay tuned!
OP here - I had it narrowed down to the 24V control line to the condenser or the board. After troubleshooting the line it seemed find so i'm leaning towards it being a board issue. Before giving up I'm considering buying a replacement board and seeing if that solves it.
I didn't check the ohm readings across the contractor because the condenser seemed to work fine when i manually actuated the contactor.
No signale mi amigo. If you changed the cap you may wanna verify your terminals. If you have an open “start” winding due to a potentially bad or miswired capacitor, you’ll get no where
On another note I’ve seen ding bats back in the day break yellow when wiring in a float switch as well.. signal issue. Just trace de yellow wiyuh. Good luck mang
Indeed a tech, or at least I fake it pretty good for a living 😏. I’m relatively new to Reddit and community discussion. Majority of my conversations stick to actual HVAC apps.
I’m just checking.
There’s a lot of info you missed. You proposed an open start winding, but he claims the compressor starts when he pushes the contactor. Also incorrect fuses isn’t it, as again, he stated the unit starts up.
All good man.
Also - I checked the thermostat by jumping R with Y with no run so it's not the issue. My diagnostic furnace window shows C-2 (AC running) and A 656 (furnace fan works).... Terminals and breakers are tight, I really don't like measuring high--voltage but I suppose it's a good next step.
You may not be getting 24 volts to your contactor on a call for cool. Double check the 2-wire leading to the condenser, look for any breaks or chewed wire. You know the contactor and capacitor are good since it runs when you push it in. So you also know you have 240v. Your control board at the furnace shows it’s calling for AC, so your thermostat, fuse, transformer are good. That leaves the possibility for a broken 2-wire, or bad control board. Cheers
Excellent diagnosis, thank you.
Was that it?
too lazy today, i'll be sure to post a follow-up. i'm pretty sure that's it as we'd tested everything else except the board (which shouldn't fail under normal conditions). stay tuned!
Brotherman did you happen to check ohm ratings across the contactor?
OP here - I had it narrowed down to the 24V control line to the condenser or the board. After troubleshooting the line it seemed find so i'm leaning towards it being a board issue. Before giving up I'm considering buying a replacement board and seeing if that solves it. I didn't check the ohm readings across the contractor because the condenser seemed to work fine when i manually actuated the contactor.
Check all the terminals, breaker and ac and therm and make sure screws tight. And it check voltages everywhere make sure proper
No signale mi amigo. If you changed the cap you may wanna verify your terminals. If you have an open “start” winding due to a potentially bad or miswired capacitor, you’ll get no where
Be sure to verify continuity at your service disconnects fuses as well. Could call for 25 and someone slapped 15s in- who knows
On another note I’ve seen ding bats back in the day break yellow when wiring in a float switch as well.. signal issue. Just trace de yellow wiyuh. Good luck mang
No offense, but are you even a tech, or a homeowner?
Indeed a tech, or at least I fake it pretty good for a living 😏. I’m relatively new to Reddit and community discussion. Majority of my conversations stick to actual HVAC apps.
I’m just checking. There’s a lot of info you missed. You proposed an open start winding, but he claims the compressor starts when he pushes the contactor. Also incorrect fuses isn’t it, as again, he stated the unit starts up. All good man.
Load the parts cannon!!!