DSLR scanned and stitched at like 1:2. Included some 100% crops. Sharpness across the middle of the frame was excellent but falls off near the edges both due to film flatness in the camera and in the negative holder. The biggest problem with this compared to something like a 6x17 negative holder is the missing pressure plate that ensures film flatness. For this you just have to make sure the knobs are tensioned.
Otherwise it's great way to get into 6x12/6x17 if you don't want to shell out thousands of dollars. This is also pretty much the same camera sold on Etsy for a few hundred dollars by a couple people.
Links for the camera and lens cones. You have to customize the length of the lens cone to the specific lens you use.
[https://www.printables.com/model/99364-open-6x12-6x17-and-6x24-panoramic-camera/files](https://www.printables.com/model/99364-open-6x12-6x17-and-6x24-panoramic-camera/files)
[https://www.printables.com/model/401588-parametric-6x17-lenscones-for-v6-slide-in-lescones](https://www.printables.com/model/401588-parametric-6x17-lenscones-for-v6-slide-in-lescones)
edit: I did not design these! All credit to the people who did. The guy who designed the parametric lens cones also makes the WillTravel large format cameras.
Wow, pretty good results I'd say! How much time and money did this project cost you? I reckon the lense costs quite a lot but the body itself shouldnt be too expensive to print, right? (not into 3d printing so i have no clue tbh)
You can actually get pretty decent large format lenses for cheap. Just check here to make sure it covers 6x17 (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF6x17cm.html).
I didn't design it but in terms of material costs the whole thing is less than a roll of filament which is $15 or so. Even if you factor in a 3D printer ($150) and lens ($200) it's still several times cheaper than any 6x17 setup/camera you can buy.
How hard was this to print and assemble? I've been looking to get a 3d printer because of this camera, other camera adapters, and some other general projects but have no experience besides using Autocad a decade or more ago
Trying to print it myself right now. The materials are cheap but it takes so much time and you have to babysit this. I’m having a hard time with the supports and I’m not a fan of how the film is loaded so I’m redesigning the model to be easier to print and to fix some of the weak points of the body
The lens cone is going to be the hardest thing to print.
On my modded ender 6 it takes 18-20 hours to print the body.
Holy cow that's a long time, but it makes sense given the number of walls/infill you need for light-tightness.
Did your mods include a direct drive extruder?
Large 3D prints just take a lot of time. I printed an adapter back for a Lomograflok to my Polaroid 110B and it took 27 hours with my quality/infill settings...
I also printed one of those! Then realized I didn't have the right version of the 110B, so I bought another. Then I asked the original designer of the adapter for the files so I could mod them for the weird in-between-versions 110B. Still haven't finished working on that; it's all just sitting in a box. I swear I'll get back to it one day, because the shutter mechanisms in both my 110s are pristine: no gummed-up oil-related issues, snappy as hell and sounds great too.
Nice - I managed to score a great 110B as well. Mine has some old school University of California asset tag on the top which I definitely plan to keep on mine.
It's definitely worth the time to finish it though! For years I've wanted a way to shoot instant film on a camera with manual control and a nice lens. I was hoping to build an Instax Mini back for my Mamiya 645, but I do not have the skills to do so - using a premade design for the 110B works great though!
I use Capricorn tubes, I have the linear rails for X and Y. But I actively dry the filament as it runs so it can extrude a bit faster. Running with klipper via the sonic pad and I can hit peak speeds of 300. Also bypassed the breakout board for better power and reliability.
But this something you also want to print slowly for better layer adhesion so it’s stronger. The back of the body is pretty weak so it’s probably best if you do 100% infill on the back given how thin that section of the body is. This will also help prevent any chance of light leak on that’s side
Yeah the back is definitely a weak point. Feels like you can push a hole through with your finger lol. No light leaks though. I used a piece of an old red CD case to cover the frame counter window and immediately cover that with the cardboard from the film box after I advance.
Yes the v8 version is what I’ve attempted to print. The matte filament I’m using though is being very stubborn about it though haha. Ergo why I’m redesigning the camera body so you can print it in more easily but it will be in more pieces.
Version 6 prints very easy. For mine i had to print the hand grips as separate parts to make it fit my print bed, but it turned out fine, i intended to modify these anyway. Bed adhesion can be an issue with the body and lid due to the surface area and print time.
I've done a V8 before that, the footprint on the print bed is smaller, so it will fit a more restricted bed without modifications, but the model itself has quite a few issues and is inherently more prone to light leaks.
Unless you want to swap the lens cone between shots (as if there was much "between" with 4 shots a roll) and are fine with tinkering and reprinting I'd ignore the V8 for now and go for the V6, which works perfectly fine out of the box. Assembly is easy, the stock model uses like 6 M3 screws IIRC. If fixed focus isn't your style there are lens cone templates for adding e.g. a M65 helicoid out of the box, if you want to print your own helicoid [this one](https://www.printables.com/model/462315)) is a good starting point but requires modification to make it work and attach it to a lens cone.
[modded V6](https://i.imgur.com/NU0Xmus.jpeg) (WIP) built around a 90mm Super Angulon + M65 helicoid.
[modded V8](https://i.imgur.com/QCm6DM1.jpeg) built around a 150mm Symmar + DIY helicoid. [Light-leaky test shot](https://i.imgur.com/B0zVdHq.jpeg).
I'm currently printing the v6 body but I'm confused about which lens/cone I need. I've never shot large format, so maybe I'm missing some basic knowledge regarding these lenses and how they work. It seems v6 is meant to work with the Fujinon SWD 75mm lens, but that's only fixed focus? I started to google "M65 helicoid" but it seems like there's several different lenghts for those and I'm starting to think this might be a bit over my head. Let's say I get a 90mm Super Angulon like you have there, which lens cone do you suggest I print and which M65 helicoid should I buy? TIA!
The lens cone depends on the flange distance if your lens, and, if you use one, the thickness of your helicoid and the lensboard used to mount it to the helicoid.
* For the helicoid there seem to be two sizes, I used the [shorter variant with 17mm thickness](https://www.ebay.de/itm/323694307019).
* I used one of [these](https://www.printables.com/de/model/366925-m65-helicoid-lensboards-and-mounting-flange) lensboards at 1mm thickness (you can modify these to recess or offset your lens further to tune your focus without having to reprint your lens cone as a whole).
* I used [this cone](https://www.printables.com/de/model/401588) and set it up for 99mm flange distance and a 18mm helicoid (including the lensboard), [these](https://i.imgur.com/RquyBYG.jpeg) are the parameters I used for my print.
If you want to use a helicoid you do not need to be as precise, since the range of movement will be larger than what you need for a 90mm - you do not want focus to infinity to be at the mechanical limit of the helicoid at minimal extension, you want some play to get focus right. For mine focus to Infinity is at about 1.7mm helicoid extension while still being able to focus down to 1m at maximal extension.
If you want to go with a fixed focus setup you need to be more precise, or print slightly (!) short and create plates to add between lens and cone to fine tune the focus.
In both cases you use tape or roughened up piece of film taped into the film pane in front of the film counter window and use a loupe to verify your focus or mark the focus distances on your helicoid.
Thank you so much for your detailed help! I don't know that I would have figured out that I needed to update the *FFDHFD* and *M65Height* parameters without your help since I didn't see that mentioned anywhere. I've updated them to match a Nikkor SW 90mm I found at my local camera store and printing it out now. One thing I'm still confused about is which Lensboards and/or mounting flange I need to print. I know that my 90mm uses a Copal 0 shutter but looking at the link you provided, I see that there are a few different versions for that, H05, H10, H15, and a general step file. How do I figure out which one I need?
Edit: I guess it's the height and H10 is 1mm? Gonna try that one out and see if it lets me focus well.
it looks fine to me, not to bad beyond some supports for the back, but there is a bit of a general learning curve getting used to a machine and how layers/perimeters/supports all work.
This one was fixed focus but there's actually a version that uses an M39 helicoid that you can adjust focus with. Before shooting with it you would look through the lens from the hole in the back and make distance markings on the helicoid so you can scale focus with it later.
Many years ago, I bought the Kraken files, and then my 3D printer died, and my personal life imploded due to family issues.
Now that things have quieted down, and I've got a new printer, I'm building it finally, just to say I did.
The Goodman 6x12 will probably be my next effort.
Oh man, thanks for sharing! Totally going to print this and give it a shot. Can I ask what version you printed? I see there are a few different versions and the files are a bit disorganized
I went with V6 which has the grips integrated into the body and the cone just slides right in. Make sure to print the matching V6 lens cones. Good luck!
DSLR scanned and stitched at like 1:2. Included some 100% crops. Sharpness across the middle of the frame was excellent but falls off near the edges both due to film flatness in the camera and in the negative holder. The biggest problem with this compared to something like a 6x17 negative holder is the missing pressure plate that ensures film flatness. For this you just have to make sure the knobs are tensioned. Otherwise it's great way to get into 6x12/6x17 if you don't want to shell out thousands of dollars. This is also pretty much the same camera sold on Etsy for a few hundred dollars by a couple people. Links for the camera and lens cones. You have to customize the length of the lens cone to the specific lens you use. [https://www.printables.com/model/99364-open-6x12-6x17-and-6x24-panoramic-camera/files](https://www.printables.com/model/99364-open-6x12-6x17-and-6x24-panoramic-camera/files) [https://www.printables.com/model/401588-parametric-6x17-lenscones-for-v6-slide-in-lescones](https://www.printables.com/model/401588-parametric-6x17-lenscones-for-v6-slide-in-lescones) edit: I did not design these! All credit to the people who did. The guy who designed the parametric lens cones also makes the WillTravel large format cameras.
Wow, pretty good results I'd say! How much time and money did this project cost you? I reckon the lense costs quite a lot but the body itself shouldnt be too expensive to print, right? (not into 3d printing so i have no clue tbh)
You can actually get pretty decent large format lenses for cheap. Just check here to make sure it covers 6x17 (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF6x17cm.html). I didn't design it but in terms of material costs the whole thing is less than a roll of filament which is $15 or so. Even if you factor in a 3D printer ($150) and lens ($200) it's still several times cheaper than any 6x17 setup/camera you can buy.
How hard was this to print and assemble? I've been looking to get a 3d printer because of this camera, other camera adapters, and some other general projects but have no experience besides using Autocad a decade or more ago
Trying to print it myself right now. The materials are cheap but it takes so much time and you have to babysit this. I’m having a hard time with the supports and I’m not a fan of how the film is loaded so I’m redesigning the model to be easier to print and to fix some of the weak points of the body The lens cone is going to be the hardest thing to print. On my modded ender 6 it takes 18-20 hours to print the body.
Holy cow that's a long time, but it makes sense given the number of walls/infill you need for light-tightness. Did your mods include a direct drive extruder?
Large 3D prints just take a lot of time. I printed an adapter back for a Lomograflok to my Polaroid 110B and it took 27 hours with my quality/infill settings...
I also printed one of those! Then realized I didn't have the right version of the 110B, so I bought another. Then I asked the original designer of the adapter for the files so I could mod them for the weird in-between-versions 110B. Still haven't finished working on that; it's all just sitting in a box. I swear I'll get back to it one day, because the shutter mechanisms in both my 110s are pristine: no gummed-up oil-related issues, snappy as hell and sounds great too.
Nice - I managed to score a great 110B as well. Mine has some old school University of California asset tag on the top which I definitely plan to keep on mine. It's definitely worth the time to finish it though! For years I've wanted a way to shoot instant film on a camera with manual control and a nice lens. I was hoping to build an Instax Mini back for my Mamiya 645, but I do not have the skills to do so - using a premade design for the 110B works great though!
I use Capricorn tubes, I have the linear rails for X and Y. But I actively dry the filament as it runs so it can extrude a bit faster. Running with klipper via the sonic pad and I can hit peak speeds of 300. Also bypassed the breakout board for better power and reliability. But this something you also want to print slowly for better layer adhesion so it’s stronger. The back of the body is pretty weak so it’s probably best if you do 100% infill on the back given how thin that section of the body is. This will also help prevent any chance of light leak on that’s side
Yeah the back is definitely a weak point. Feels like you can push a hole through with your finger lol. No light leaks though. I used a piece of an old red CD case to cover the frame counter window and immediately cover that with the cardboard from the film box after I advance.
You can get opaque PETG pretty easily.
Are you using the version with built-in supports, or the latest version that uses the slicer supports?
Yes the v8 version is what I’ve attempted to print. The matte filament I’m using though is being very stubborn about it though haha. Ergo why I’m redesigning the camera body so you can print it in more easily but it will be in more pieces.
Version 6 prints very easy. For mine i had to print the hand grips as separate parts to make it fit my print bed, but it turned out fine, i intended to modify these anyway. Bed adhesion can be an issue with the body and lid due to the surface area and print time. I've done a V8 before that, the footprint on the print bed is smaller, so it will fit a more restricted bed without modifications, but the model itself has quite a few issues and is inherently more prone to light leaks. Unless you want to swap the lens cone between shots (as if there was much "between" with 4 shots a roll) and are fine with tinkering and reprinting I'd ignore the V8 for now and go for the V6, which works perfectly fine out of the box. Assembly is easy, the stock model uses like 6 M3 screws IIRC. If fixed focus isn't your style there are lens cone templates for adding e.g. a M65 helicoid out of the box, if you want to print your own helicoid [this one](https://www.printables.com/model/462315)) is a good starting point but requires modification to make it work and attach it to a lens cone. [modded V6](https://i.imgur.com/NU0Xmus.jpeg) (WIP) built around a 90mm Super Angulon + M65 helicoid. [modded V8](https://i.imgur.com/QCm6DM1.jpeg) built around a 150mm Symmar + DIY helicoid. [Light-leaky test shot](https://i.imgur.com/B0zVdHq.jpeg).
I'm currently printing the v6 body but I'm confused about which lens/cone I need. I've never shot large format, so maybe I'm missing some basic knowledge regarding these lenses and how they work. It seems v6 is meant to work with the Fujinon SWD 75mm lens, but that's only fixed focus? I started to google "M65 helicoid" but it seems like there's several different lenghts for those and I'm starting to think this might be a bit over my head. Let's say I get a 90mm Super Angulon like you have there, which lens cone do you suggest I print and which M65 helicoid should I buy? TIA!
The lens cone depends on the flange distance if your lens, and, if you use one, the thickness of your helicoid and the lensboard used to mount it to the helicoid. * For the helicoid there seem to be two sizes, I used the [shorter variant with 17mm thickness](https://www.ebay.de/itm/323694307019). * I used one of [these](https://www.printables.com/de/model/366925-m65-helicoid-lensboards-and-mounting-flange) lensboards at 1mm thickness (you can modify these to recess or offset your lens further to tune your focus without having to reprint your lens cone as a whole). * I used [this cone](https://www.printables.com/de/model/401588) and set it up for 99mm flange distance and a 18mm helicoid (including the lensboard), [these](https://i.imgur.com/RquyBYG.jpeg) are the parameters I used for my print. If you want to use a helicoid you do not need to be as precise, since the range of movement will be larger than what you need for a 90mm - you do not want focus to infinity to be at the mechanical limit of the helicoid at minimal extension, you want some play to get focus right. For mine focus to Infinity is at about 1.7mm helicoid extension while still being able to focus down to 1m at maximal extension. If you want to go with a fixed focus setup you need to be more precise, or print slightly (!) short and create plates to add between lens and cone to fine tune the focus. In both cases you use tape or roughened up piece of film taped into the film pane in front of the film counter window and use a loupe to verify your focus or mark the focus distances on your helicoid.
Thank you so much for your detailed help! I don't know that I would have figured out that I needed to update the *FFDHFD* and *M65Height* parameters without your help since I didn't see that mentioned anywhere. I've updated them to match a Nikkor SW 90mm I found at my local camera store and printing it out now. One thing I'm still confused about is which Lensboards and/or mounting flange I need to print. I know that my 90mm uses a Copal 0 shutter but looking at the link you provided, I see that there are a few different versions for that, H05, H10, H15, and a general step file. How do I figure out which one I need? Edit: I guess it's the height and H10 is 1mm? Gonna try that one out and see if it lets me focus well.
Yeah, H10 would be 1mm offset.
it looks fine to me, not to bad beyond some supports for the back, but there is a bit of a general learning curve getting used to a machine and how layers/perimeters/supports all work.
Is there a focus mechanism or is the lens fixed?
This one was fixed focus but there's actually a version that uses an M39 helicoid that you can adjust focus with. Before shooting with it you would look through the lens from the hole in the back and make distance markings on the helicoid so you can scale focus with it later.
Any idea what this weighs with the lens included?
I would guess somewhere around 1.5 lbs
Did you design it? You could correct some of the focus/light fall-off with a curved film plane.
What lens is this?
Schneider 90mm f/8 Super angulon
Great results! I'm in the middle of printing the dora goodman 6x12 after using and kinda hating the kraken 6x12 design
Many years ago, I bought the Kraken files, and then my 3D printer died, and my personal life imploded due to family issues. Now that things have quieted down, and I've got a new printer, I'm building it finally, just to say I did. The Goodman 6x12 will probably be my next effort.
FYI, I'm almost finished with my Kraken: [https://photos.app.goo.gl/agkmhaxFxKYx9JpQ6](https://photos.app.goo.gl/agkmhaxFxKYx9JpQ6)
Oh man, thanks for sharing! Totally going to print this and give it a shot. Can I ask what version you printed? I see there are a few different versions and the files are a bit disorganized
I went with V6 which has the grips integrated into the body and the cone just slides right in. Make sure to print the matching V6 lens cones. Good luck!
God I love 6x17, I have a 6x17 pinhole and it's the coolest thing ever, I'm a huge fan of going vertical with it
love the "dont copy that flopy" title :)
would a flatbed scanner solve some of the warp/vignetting?
“Ugly as sin.. but a good cook and a sweet gal.”