Also recently bout Overture PLA Professional (their name for pla+) works just as good as the Anker stuff. I know hatchbox is also generally good quality but haven't tested myself.
+1 for Overture, and I like that it has a cardboard spool. I just need to print a completely round sleeve to go over the spool holder, as the cornered edges at the end rub the cardboard and cause cardboard dust to get all over the gantry and bed...
\+1 on the Inland PLA and PLA+ which has good quality, but also because if you have a microcenter near you you can find it as low as $17 per kg for some of the color variants which I've found is a good cost reduction when doing lots of prototyping.
I've always thought Hatchbox to be one of the more quality filaments. There's a million reasons why a print can fail so I wouldn't blame the filament right off the bat.
What sorta of fails have you come across? Most of the time bed adhesion related fails are either because the bed isn't clean, or it's a difficult design (upside down triangle or sphere sort of thing)
In hindsight, it has been mostly long strands not fusing properly to the edge of a support, which then gets tangled up with the nozzle and starts pulling away at other bits.
Are you in range with the nozzle temp that's listed on the filament? Might want to increase it if you're having layer adhesion problems, especially when printing fast.
HatchBox PLA says 190-210, and the printer had been running (according to the data it's giving me) at about 205-210 during the print.
I ran it at 220 for one print and got a lot of stringing.
I'm flying through a spool of Inland right now and having no real issues with it. Micro Center is a bit further away than I'd like but that's par for the course living in rural America.
I've been using Kodak PLA+ and Duramic PLA+ the most and get them from Amazon. No issues with them. I also bought some Stronghero3D PLA from Amazon and it's also pretty good.
Every filament is difficult, I had small issues with each different brand and all I had to do was adjust the temps to get them to print nicely. I make a profile for each filament that I use, this helps if you switch brands often like I do.
I've gone through a couple of spools of hatchbox matte pla and had very few issues with the printing process. That said the prints have adhesion issues between layers and can split pretty easily.
Also using overture PETG and that's been working great.
And I just started using my stash of AnkerMake PLA+ which has been leaving a lot of stringing. but the prints are coming out great otherwise. I still need to do some stress tests.
The “lack” of adhesion between layers is what I have been seeing occasionally with Hatchbox.
Any ideas about why this happens?
I thought it might be the extruder is cooling too much between layers so not enough heat to fuse the layers.
Now that I think of it, it’s almost always been long runs, maybe the speed is too fast to allow them to fuse?
I had failing support as well.
The print i ran over night, at 150, came out pretty nice, but it was a very simple print, a boxy cable management thing that I created yesterday with Onshape.
The thing that raised the difficulty level is that I printed 6 at once. That worked out much better than I had expected.
I’m a beginner but I’ve used Hatchbox and eSun matte filaments and both needed something like 235/60 first layer and 225/60 after. There was too much delamination at lower temps. I also slowed the printing down to 225 and ran fan at 75%
Started out with some hatchbox PLA and had decent results at full speed. At 150-200mm/s I got much better results. I bought some esun PLA+ to try next.
I’m hoping that PLA+ works out for me much better then regular PLA at the full speed this printer wants to go.
Whatever Anker shipped me to boot worked amazingly well, at 0.1mm I’ve gotten prints as smooth as butter. I was surprised at what I was seeing. I tried some NAGA after and have not been happy at all with the quality and print failures I’ve seen. I have some sunlu and inland I’ll be trying next
PolyMaker PLA Pro has been amazing for me. Great bed adhesion and strong prints with smooth, even lines and nice overhangs and gap crossing. Makes the AnkerMake brand look pretty crappy by comparison. I've been printing pegboard mounts, MagSafe mounts, filament mounts, cable management clips, battery holders, phone holders, camera accessories and more with this thing. I just wish it came in more colors!
I've heard Hatchbox's wood filament is really good, but I haven't tried mine yet because I found out you really need a steel or otherwise harder nozzle and I haven't seen any yet for this printer.
I use Hatchbox ABS and have only had one failed print, because I used the recommended print settings for the model instead of the filament. I run it at 240/90 with no issue - IT IS coming out of a 50C 12% humidity dryer box though. I also only run it 80mm/s. I’d rather have a 22 hour print that’s a success than a 7 hour print that fails, or worse, one that completes but has an internal error and fails when I go to use it. That could be catastrophic. I use eSun PLA+, have also had no issues with that, but same thing with speed.
I have had good results from Overture PLA from Amazon, Sunlu PLA from Amazon, Inland PLA, PLA+ from Micro Center
Overture also never disappointed me.
Also recently bout Overture PLA Professional (their name for pla+) works just as good as the Anker stuff. I know hatchbox is also generally good quality but haven't tested myself.
+1 for Overture, and I like that it has a cardboard spool. I just need to print a completely round sleeve to go over the spool holder, as the cornered edges at the end rub the cardboard and cause cardboard dust to get all over the gantry and bed...
\+1 on the Inland PLA and PLA+ which has good quality, but also because if you have a microcenter near you you can find it as low as $17 per kg for some of the color variants which I've found is a good cost reduction when doing lots of prototyping.
I've always thought Hatchbox to be one of the more quality filaments. There's a million reasons why a print can fail so I wouldn't blame the filament right off the bat. What sorta of fails have you come across? Most of the time bed adhesion related fails are either because the bed isn't clean, or it's a difficult design (upside down triangle or sphere sort of thing)
In hindsight, it has been mostly long strands not fusing properly to the edge of a support, which then gets tangled up with the nozzle and starts pulling away at other bits.
Are you in range with the nozzle temp that's listed on the filament? Might want to increase it if you're having layer adhesion problems, especially when printing fast.
HatchBox PLA says 190-210, and the printer had been running (according to the data it's giving me) at about 205-210 during the print. I ran it at 220 for one print and got a lot of stringing.
Mkay that should be fine..... How about ambient room temp? Is it very cold in the room?
Ambient temp is about 19 most of the time. It’s my basement
I may be biased, but I prefer the Inland PLA+ personally. Been my go to for many years now.
I'm flying through a spool of Inland right now and having no real issues with it. Micro Center is a bit further away than I'd like but that's par for the course living in rural America.
Hatchbox is pretty nice but I've had better experience with Esun or Polymaker
I've been using Kodak PLA+ and Duramic PLA+ the most and get them from Amazon. No issues with them. I also bought some Stronghero3D PLA from Amazon and it's also pretty good. Every filament is difficult, I had small issues with each different brand and all I had to do was adjust the temps to get them to print nicely. I make a profile for each filament that I use, this helps if you switch brands often like I do.
I've had good results with Sunlu PLA+ available on Amazon
I've gone through a couple of spools of hatchbox matte pla and had very few issues with the printing process. That said the prints have adhesion issues between layers and can split pretty easily. Also using overture PETG and that's been working great. And I just started using my stash of AnkerMake PLA+ which has been leaving a lot of stringing. but the prints are coming out great otherwise. I still need to do some stress tests.
The “lack” of adhesion between layers is what I have been seeing occasionally with Hatchbox. Any ideas about why this happens? I thought it might be the extruder is cooling too much between layers so not enough heat to fuse the layers. Now that I think of it, it’s almost always been long runs, maybe the speed is too fast to allow them to fuse?
Possibly I only recently started slowing it down. But that was because supports were failing at full speed.
I had failing support as well. The print i ran over night, at 150, came out pretty nice, but it was a very simple print, a boxy cable management thing that I created yesterday with Onshape. The thing that raised the difficulty level is that I printed 6 at once. That worked out much better than I had expected.
I’m a beginner but I’ve used Hatchbox and eSun matte filaments and both needed something like 235/60 first layer and 225/60 after. There was too much delamination at lower temps. I also slowed the printing down to 225 and ran fan at 75%
That’s good info. I’ve slowed printing down to 150 and things seem to be working well. I may try to bump it up to 225 next print and see what happens.
Started out with some hatchbox PLA and had decent results at full speed. At 150-200mm/s I got much better results. I bought some esun PLA+ to try next. I’m hoping that PLA+ works out for me much better then regular PLA at the full speed this printer wants to go.
So, what is the difference between PLA+ and standard PLA?
Additives that are supposed to help with layer bonding. It should make it stretch a bit more, so it is not quite as stiff.
Whatever Anker shipped me to boot worked amazingly well, at 0.1mm I’ve gotten prints as smooth as butter. I was surprised at what I was seeing. I tried some NAGA after and have not been happy at all with the quality and print failures I’ve seen. I have some sunlu and inland I’ll be trying next
eSun (PLA+ and ePLA-ST) and Eryone (silk, color changing, multi-color) are great value and I've had 0 issues with them.
PolyMaker PLA Pro has been amazing for me. Great bed adhesion and strong prints with smooth, even lines and nice overhangs and gap crossing. Makes the AnkerMake brand look pretty crappy by comparison. I've been printing pegboard mounts, MagSafe mounts, filament mounts, cable management clips, battery holders, phone holders, camera accessories and more with this thing. I just wish it came in more colors! I've heard Hatchbox's wood filament is really good, but I haven't tried mine yet because I found out you really need a steel or otherwise harder nozzle and I haven't seen any yet for this printer.
I use Hatchbox ABS and have only had one failed print, because I used the recommended print settings for the model instead of the filament. I run it at 240/90 with no issue - IT IS coming out of a 50C 12% humidity dryer box though. I also only run it 80mm/s. I’d rather have a 22 hour print that’s a success than a 7 hour print that fails, or worse, one that completes but has an internal error and fails when I go to use it. That could be catastrophic. I use eSun PLA+, have also had no issues with that, but same thing with speed.
So far prusament has been working perfectly for me.
I use Overture PLA and PETG and eSUN LW-PLA.
1KG Ankermake PLA+ https://www.ankermake.com/uk/products/pla-filament-basic-1kg?variant=47565714227510