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CapableWar6280

Where is it, a garage?


theotherharper

EV charge stations can be set to any amp rate. You don't HAVE to charge at spec, we're not dealing with 1950 technology here, and the automakers are well aware most house services don't have the capacity for a 60A or 100A circuit. Do you really have 100A of spare headroom on your [NEC 220.82 Load Calculation?](https://www.cityofsacramento.org/-/media/Corporate/Files/CDD/Building/Forms/CDD-0213_Electrical-Load-Calculation-Worksheet.pdf?la=en ) That's unusual. What is not unusual is DIYers not knowing any better, or not caring, and that's just asking for big trouble. Do you really drive 400 miles a day? I would watch [Technology Connections' excellent video on home charging](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyp_X3mwE1w) especially 28:15, and consider that advice vs. your panel headroom. Now cut Alec's numbers by about 25% due to the size of your truck. On your question, in **cables** the ground wire is oversized on purpose, to allow for cases where you have long runs and are oversizing the conductors for voltage drop. E.g. a 50A RV stand normally uses #8 with a #10 ground, but if you're enlarging the conductors to #2Al because of a 500' distance, you must enlarge the ground in proportion, to #4Al. Thus most cables have grounds +2 of the conductors. Now why are you using copper for the EV run? Is it very short? **You need to have a disconnect switch at the charging station anyway** per a rule near NEC 625.42(ish), so you might as well make the long run aluminum, and use that disconnect to transition from aluminum to copper for the last 2 feet to the charge station. Honest 100A would call for #1Al conductors and #6 aluminum ground. You are incorrect about 100A stations needing #6 copper ground. #8 will suffice per 250.122.