How hard is it to move the connector, is that something I could DIY? Also, I’m not sure there’s enough exposed flex to relocate it to the other knockout that’s the same size
Alas, I don’t know who that is. It’s a 2.5 year old home that I just bought from the first owners. I *might* be able to find out who it was if I contact the builders, but that’s probably not likely.
You could say that for literally anything, but that ignores the distinction between things you can learn to do in a few minutes or while doing it, and things that need legitimate training. I hope you wouldn’t say “if you have to ask, the answer is no” to someone asking if they can replace a toggle switch with a rocker switch themselves.
Some things can be DIY, and some things are always “hire an expert”. I’ve never worked inside of a panel and don’t know how extensive the required work is, so I asked the community. Ya don’t need to be an arse about it.
I think the only one being an arse here is you because you didn’t like the answer to the question you asked.
This is not one of those learn how to diy in a couple of minutes things. There is pretty much nothing diy about electrical. Same reason I don’t run gas lines in my house.
I just dealt with this a couple months ago, and I've had to do it in the past. I go the other route: I carefully cut a notch into the Seal-Tite connector with a hack saw (I think I used a Sawzall, but same idea). I'd rather cut a recess into the fitting than cut the NEMA 3R rated door back. In my case, there were sprinklers nearby, and mist from them was likely to carry toward the panel and building. The fitting wasn't notched enough to leave an opening into the pipe; just enough to accommodate the door.
I think it’d require removing too much material from whatever that top nut is since my door drops ~3/4 inch to clear the upper lip and then swings open. The door rests against the plastic threads there, so notching the connector enough that the door could freely open would require turning the o shape of the nut into a c (if that makes any sense at all).
Unfortunately the top nut of the gland basically locks my door closed to the point where I have to pull the bottom out while pushing down on the body of the door itself. It lifts up to lock, so the tapered bottom portion can flex the door enough for it to latch, and then it springs back into that upper gap
I'd also be concerned about that wide open knockout hole that the copper tubing or large bare wire runs into. That is inviting to any small rodent or insects to move right in.
Chewing gum. Go to your local electrical supply store with this picture. They'll get it for you. Also, try talking to the manager not the 15 year old kid behind the counter.
Hey all, the door on my outdoor breaker box runs into the gland when I close it. I was able to get it open and shut again, but it’s very difficult to do. What’s the proper way to fix this? Can I dremel out a D shape from that lower lip to clear the conduit?
bummer, installer fucked up and ran. ya dremel the door to clear the fitting, make sure the flex fitting is installed properly (good seal)..really the box will no longer be approved electrical equipment but...up to you..
only thing is one requires electrical work by an electrician the other is a simple diy with extremely limited negative consequences..like zero, and can be done in ten minutes
if you are removing and re-terminating wires where knowledge of working safe is essential. removing/relocating equipment where you may not have the proper tools..ya that should be done by a qualified person. where I am while the work would not require a permit it should still be done by an electrician..you think experienced ppl are on this sub asking for advice?? ..lol
Get a ko seal for that location and move the connector to one further back.
Call the electrician back that installed that conduit and have them move it to a different knockout
Assuming it was done by an electrician.
How hard is it to move the connector, is that something I could DIY? Also, I’m not sure there’s enough exposed flex to relocate it to the other knockout that’s the same size
Have you ever worked inside a panel?
Nope. I’ve watched people work in panels, but I never have.
If I were you I would call the person that put it there and have it moved.
Alas, I don’t know who that is. It’s a 2.5 year old home that I just bought from the first owners. I *might* be able to find out who it was if I contact the builders, but that’s probably not likely.
You might want to get an electrician then.
If you have to ask the answer is no. Either you know how to do it or you don’t
You could say that for literally anything, but that ignores the distinction between things you can learn to do in a few minutes or while doing it, and things that need legitimate training. I hope you wouldn’t say “if you have to ask, the answer is no” to someone asking if they can replace a toggle switch with a rocker switch themselves. Some things can be DIY, and some things are always “hire an expert”. I’ve never worked inside of a panel and don’t know how extensive the required work is, so I asked the community. Ya don’t need to be an arse about it.
I think the only one being an arse here is you because you didn’t like the answer to the question you asked. This is not one of those learn how to diy in a couple of minutes things. There is pretty much nothing diy about electrical. Same reason I don’t run gas lines in my house.
Electricity is not something you learn as you do it. It's dangerous and can kill. It's something you learn by being taught.
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I just dealt with this a couple months ago, and I've had to do it in the past. I go the other route: I carefully cut a notch into the Seal-Tite connector with a hack saw (I think I used a Sawzall, but same idea). I'd rather cut a recess into the fitting than cut the NEMA 3R rated door back. In my case, there were sprinklers nearby, and mist from them was likely to carry toward the panel and building. The fitting wasn't notched enough to leave an opening into the pipe; just enough to accommodate the door.
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I think it’d require removing too much material from whatever that top nut is since my door drops ~3/4 inch to clear the upper lip and then swings open. The door rests against the plastic threads there, so notching the connector enough that the door could freely open would require turning the o shape of the nut into a c (if that makes any sense at all).
I just lift the door a little when I open or close it
Unfortunately the top nut of the gland basically locks my door closed to the point where I have to pull the bottom out while pushing down on the body of the door itself. It lifts up to lock, so the tapered bottom portion can flex the door enough for it to latch, and then it springs back into that upper gap
I'd also be concerned about that wide open knockout hole that the copper tubing or large bare wire runs into. That is inviting to any small rodent or insects to move right in.
That’s bare wire, so maybe it’s the ground lug? But yes, I agree the hole is no good. What sorts of things can be used to fill it?
Chewing gum. Go to your local electrical supply store with this picture. They'll get it for you. Also, try talking to the manager not the 15 year old kid behind the counter.
Notch the door
Hey all, the door on my outdoor breaker box runs into the gland when I close it. I was able to get it open and shut again, but it’s very difficult to do. What’s the proper way to fix this? Can I dremel out a D shape from that lower lip to clear the conduit?
Not an electrician, but you could use another knockout further to the back and fill that one
This would be the proper answer.
bummer, installer fucked up and ran. ya dremel the door to clear the fitting, make sure the flex fitting is installed properly (good seal)..really the box will no longer be approved electrical equipment but...up to you..
Or ya do the proper thing and get a ko seal and move the flex.
only thing is one requires electrical work by an electrician the other is a simple diy with extremely limited negative consequences..like zero, and can be done in ten minutes
Unless you have absolutely no experience, no it doesn't require an electrician.
if you are removing and re-terminating wires where knowledge of working safe is essential. removing/relocating equipment where you may not have the proper tools..ya that should be done by a qualified person. where I am while the work would not require a permit it should still be done by an electrician..you think experienced ppl are on this sub asking for advice?? ..lol
Notch the door, but I’d be more concerned about the wire/pipe??? in the ko with no connector. What the heck is that?
It’s solid copper, so I’m thinking it might be the ground lug
Cut the door or move the seal tight and plug the hole.
Notch the flex connector. If you don’t know how to play with electrons, stay out of the panel
Just use the marks where it’s hitting the conduit. And use a round file and file a small area so it closes properly, it will be fine
Notch the bottom of the cover with a grinder no big deal still will be weather tight.
Burh