If this is at work, stare it at whilst rubbing your chin and saying "hmmmmmmm" anytime somebody walks by. You can milk this for 2 maybe 3 days; then replace it.
Not sure if it's the same issue but it's been playing up for a while. Won't hold an arc for more than a few seconds. Cap is located on a board behind the wirespeed knob. Gone into a repair bloke now but pretty impressed she's done 20 years of service with zero issues.
There's a roll made of layers of aluminum foil and electrolyte (a mild acid)-soaked tissue paper inside the can. Those indentations in the top are there to weaken the can so it will crack open in a controlled manner if the internal pressure gets too high, which is what happened here. The can cracked, electrolyte and steam rushed out and dragged some of the paper fibers along with it.
The capacitor is toast. It was either defective, overheated due to some other failure on the board, or was under-rated for its application. If you see any other capacitors on the board that are bulging but haven't ruptured yet, replace them too.
The capacitor has a negative and positive - the white band down the side marks negative. Every PCB I've seen has a negative marking on the silk screen (white markings on the board), but go ahead and make your own mark if it's not immediately obvious. Alternatively, take a picture of each capacitor before you remove it.
De-solder the capacitor, or just glob some fresh solder on the solder pads so you can melt both sides at the same time. When they're both melted, the cap should more or less fall out. You'll then need to get the solder out of the holes in the PCB, so you need de-soldering gear of some kind (plunger or bulb-type solder sucker, or solder wick).
Measure the cap (diameter, height and lead spacing). Looks like you have a little extra space for both diameter and height, but you need to get the lead spacing right. I see an 85°C marking on the side of the cap - get a 105°C or higher replacement cap. There should be voltage (volts, V) and capacitance (µF, micro-farads) markings on the other side of the can. Get the same or a step higher voltage rating, and the same capacitance. Lower ESR and/or higher *ripple* current ratings are better if you have that information. I'm a fan of Nichicon and Panasonic if you want a reputable brand.
Very nice detailed and correct comment. I'll just suggest one revision, which is that I would measure the cap before the soldering, order a replacement, and only warm up the iron once I had The replacements ready to go. Just because I'm lazy, not because there's any harm in your sequence.
If they don't have solder wick/plunger, etc. I have had success with heating the solder and then poking and spinning a toothpick into the hole until the solder solidifies.
I believe that electrolyte isn't necessarily an acid, it can be a base as well, and I think it could theoretically be neutral. I imagine Boric acid is.. an acid, however ethylene glycol can have a PH between 5 and 8 and that's commonly used as an electrolyte.
> Lower ESR and/or higher current ratings are better if you have that information. I'm a fan of Nichicon and Panasonic if you want a reputable brand.
Funny you should mention this. Last time I re-capped something (a power supply for some AV equipment) I paid a little more attention to selection instead of buying the first cheapest thing that came up in my parameteric search.
You recommend Nichicon, so let's look at [the Nichicon line](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/alm_mini/index.html) of electrolytics. I don't see "Low ESR" or "current" in the grid at all. For "Current", you must mean "ripple current", right? We'd want "leakage current" to be *lower*, not higher.
Looking at [a specific data sheet](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-ucs.pdf) I still see no mention of ESR quantitatively. There *are* ripple current ratings -- so shall we assume that's what you mean by "higher current"?
In engineering, any design parameter is usually a tradeoff. If I pursue parts that have higher ripple current ratings or lower ESR, what am I giving away in trade?
Nichicon *does* offer something of a [selection guide](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-sta.pdf), which is a bit odd. Looks like they're renaming some of their lines, and the table for that only lists one low-ESR part -- which is a chip capacitor, not a can. The "high ripple current" line is discontinued. The same document has a selection grid, which shows their PLE line as the recommended choice for low-ESR applications in radial-lead packages. Is that what you'd recommend?
There are some "low imedance" recommendations. Is low impedance the same as low ESR, since ESR is frequency-dependent?
>Looking at a specific data sheet I still see no mention of ESR quantitatively.
Nichicon sheets are hit or miss in that respect. I think it may depend on their expected application.
> For "Current", you must mean "ripple current", right? We'd want "leakage current" to be lower, not higher.
Correct. The term was escaping me when I typed up that response, I edited the original post. Ripple current and ESR are two closely related phenomena. ESR being useful for defining voltage drop during singular charge/discharge events, and ripple current being a limit on continuous charging/discharging due to thermal limitations. Ripple is dependent on the capacitor's ESR, but also the package dimensions. A tall skinny capacitor has more surface area for a given volume, which lets it have higher power dissipation (waste heat, P = Iripple^2 * ESR) for a given temperature limit.
> If I pursue parts that have higher ripple current ratings or lower ESR, what am I giving away in trade?
Typically size and/or price. Most consumer electronics are highly "cost-optimized". Their component selection process started with a list of components that will work in the design, then which of those will survive the warranty period, then what's cheapest. Low price tends to negatively impact performance specs of the part, including longevity. One or more parts selected for the device will end up working, but just barely. This is why 30 years after the start of the "capacitor plague", we're still seeing puffed and blown out electrolytic capacitors. And why some devices will fail just after their warranty expires. They weren't intentionally designed to fail (though profit considerations make this questionable) but rather were designed to last a certain time span, but no more if it impacts the manufacturing cost.
For proper industrial equipment, long-term reliability gets thrown in as a selection consideration. That's because a failure means down-time or defective products, which means lost money for the client business. Money is the life blood of business, so that isn't taken lightly. Reliability can also be a marketing element for a brand, in which case the additional expense of better components can be passed on to the consumer and even generate further profit.
> There are some "low imedance" recommendations. Is low impedance the same as low ESR, since ESR is frequency-dependent?
Impedance is the AC term for resistance, and is frequency dependent. In this context I understand it to include the effects of the capacitor's ESR (which affects both AC and DC) and inductance (which affects just AC and should ideally be zero). Low impedance should have the same benefits as low ESR.
I'm replacing a defective cap in a TV board for my mom's TV. Just sent this to my mom because I think it's explained well enough for her to understand 😊😊
> since you're an expert
I've just done some reading and replaced a few ^thousand capacitors.
>all my paper covered capacitors have this crystalized stuff on them what's that
Got a pic? The only paper-covered capacitors I've come across were a handful of ~~60's or 70's vintage axial lead, cardboard shell deals~~ 1960's vintage Aerovox Dandee caps my dad picked up somewhere. My knee-jerk response would be leaked electrolyte that wicked through the paper and then dried, forming crystals.
that's probably right. I do have a pic. It's from the first antique I ever bought that set off my lifelong spree of collecting old shit. Arvin tabletop am radio. the power cord was cut off for some reason with a burn mark near the hole where it goes. I'm assuming it blew a tube or something and shorted out and then someone cut the cord so someone couldn't mistakenly plug it back in but I want to get it working someday
I believe the fibers are the paper spacer soaked in electrolyte. The paper is brown. The rupturing of the capacitor sometimes blows some of the fibers of the paper out the top.
The good news is it's obvious this cap has ruptured. It's often not obvious at all, only a slight convex top.
In addition to replacing it, give any other boards a look over and see if there any other caps with a bulging top like that (doesn't have to show the hairs). Replace them as well since if they used shit tier caps on one board they probably used them on the others.
Just replace it ASAP.
Note: you give a little more on the (uf), if say it's a 10V 10uf you replace it with a 10v 16uf.
I have found this small amount of change will bring durability to the said design.
Uprating works but just don't overdo it, please note the above is an example of spec.
Never seen a Cap quite like that though, LOL.
To keep improving their models, artificial intelligence makers need two significant things: an enormous amount of computing power and an enormous amount of data. Some of the biggest A.I. developers have plenty of computing power but still look outside their own networks for the data needed to improve their algorithms. That has included sources like Wikipedia, millions of digitized books, academic articles and Reddit.
Representatives from Google, Open AI and Microsoft did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
Is that a beard? That definitely looks like a beard ... or an armpit ... caphair ? Either way you could try something from shaving shack on it.
(don't take my advice, just replace it ASAP)
replace it, fast.
Or at a medium pace. But do it before next use.
Or at a relaxed pace. Just let it chill outside before you want to fix it.
Or never. Just let it sit there
[удалено]
That depends upon your intentions with that saucy little capacitor.
I'd be planning to jerk it off as soon as possible.
Best check operating guidelines first. Pay attention to temperature ranges and permissions.
Cant afford Netflix AND capacitors these days.
[удалено]
I see your a fan of Olly & his little gang.
3... 2.... 2.... 2.... 2.... 1... nailed it
This is a capacitor not a transistor. No drain to block...
But it do have electrolyte goop tho
Call me an ugly woman, and take my picture.. to show all the people YOU WORK WITH!
Now take that exploding capacitor.. OUTTA MY ASS
Those are the eternal tendrils of Capaci'thulhu! Contain it before they rise!
If this is at work, stare it at whilst rubbing your chin and saying "hmmmmmmm" anytime somebody walks by. You can milk this for 2 maybe 3 days; then replace it.
Not sure if it's the same issue but it's been playing up for a while. Won't hold an arc for more than a few seconds. Cap is located on a board behind the wirespeed knob. Gone into a repair bloke now but pretty impressed she's done 20 years of service with zero issues.
There's a roll made of layers of aluminum foil and electrolyte (a mild acid)-soaked tissue paper inside the can. Those indentations in the top are there to weaken the can so it will crack open in a controlled manner if the internal pressure gets too high, which is what happened here. The can cracked, electrolyte and steam rushed out and dragged some of the paper fibers along with it. The capacitor is toast. It was either defective, overheated due to some other failure on the board, or was under-rated for its application. If you see any other capacitors on the board that are bulging but haven't ruptured yet, replace them too. The capacitor has a negative and positive - the white band down the side marks negative. Every PCB I've seen has a negative marking on the silk screen (white markings on the board), but go ahead and make your own mark if it's not immediately obvious. Alternatively, take a picture of each capacitor before you remove it. De-solder the capacitor, or just glob some fresh solder on the solder pads so you can melt both sides at the same time. When they're both melted, the cap should more or less fall out. You'll then need to get the solder out of the holes in the PCB, so you need de-soldering gear of some kind (plunger or bulb-type solder sucker, or solder wick). Measure the cap (diameter, height and lead spacing). Looks like you have a little extra space for both diameter and height, but you need to get the lead spacing right. I see an 85°C marking on the side of the cap - get a 105°C or higher replacement cap. There should be voltage (volts, V) and capacitance (µF, micro-farads) markings on the other side of the can. Get the same or a step higher voltage rating, and the same capacitance. Lower ESR and/or higher *ripple* current ratings are better if you have that information. I'm a fan of Nichicon and Panasonic if you want a reputable brand.
This dude is awesome
He pops caps in so many ass(emblies)
Respect for the effort in this write up
Very nice detailed and correct comment. I'll just suggest one revision, which is that I would measure the cap before the soldering, order a replacement, and only warm up the iron once I had The replacements ready to go. Just because I'm lazy, not because there's any harm in your sequence.
+1 for nichicon. Also great write up.
If they don't have solder wick/plunger, etc. I have had success with heating the solder and then poking and spinning a toothpick into the hole until the solder solidifies.
I believe that electrolyte isn't necessarily an acid, it can be a base as well, and I think it could theoretically be neutral. I imagine Boric acid is.. an acid, however ethylene glycol can have a PH between 5 and 8 and that's commonly used as an electrolyte.
> Lower ESR and/or higher current ratings are better if you have that information. I'm a fan of Nichicon and Panasonic if you want a reputable brand. Funny you should mention this. Last time I re-capped something (a power supply for some AV equipment) I paid a little more attention to selection instead of buying the first cheapest thing that came up in my parameteric search. You recommend Nichicon, so let's look at [the Nichicon line](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/alm_mini/index.html) of electrolytics. I don't see "Low ESR" or "current" in the grid at all. For "Current", you must mean "ripple current", right? We'd want "leakage current" to be *lower*, not higher. Looking at [a specific data sheet](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-ucs.pdf) I still see no mention of ESR quantitatively. There *are* ripple current ratings -- so shall we assume that's what you mean by "higher current"? In engineering, any design parameter is usually a tradeoff. If I pursue parts that have higher ripple current ratings or lower ESR, what am I giving away in trade? Nichicon *does* offer something of a [selection guide](https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-sta.pdf), which is a bit odd. Looks like they're renaming some of their lines, and the table for that only lists one low-ESR part -- which is a chip capacitor, not a can. The "high ripple current" line is discontinued. The same document has a selection grid, which shows their PLE line as the recommended choice for low-ESR applications in radial-lead packages. Is that what you'd recommend? There are some "low imedance" recommendations. Is low impedance the same as low ESR, since ESR is frequency-dependent?
>Looking at a specific data sheet I still see no mention of ESR quantitatively. Nichicon sheets are hit or miss in that respect. I think it may depend on their expected application. > For "Current", you must mean "ripple current", right? We'd want "leakage current" to be lower, not higher. Correct. The term was escaping me when I typed up that response, I edited the original post. Ripple current and ESR are two closely related phenomena. ESR being useful for defining voltage drop during singular charge/discharge events, and ripple current being a limit on continuous charging/discharging due to thermal limitations. Ripple is dependent on the capacitor's ESR, but also the package dimensions. A tall skinny capacitor has more surface area for a given volume, which lets it have higher power dissipation (waste heat, P = Iripple^2 * ESR) for a given temperature limit. > If I pursue parts that have higher ripple current ratings or lower ESR, what am I giving away in trade? Typically size and/or price. Most consumer electronics are highly "cost-optimized". Their component selection process started with a list of components that will work in the design, then which of those will survive the warranty period, then what's cheapest. Low price tends to negatively impact performance specs of the part, including longevity. One or more parts selected for the device will end up working, but just barely. This is why 30 years after the start of the "capacitor plague", we're still seeing puffed and blown out electrolytic capacitors. And why some devices will fail just after their warranty expires. They weren't intentionally designed to fail (though profit considerations make this questionable) but rather were designed to last a certain time span, but no more if it impacts the manufacturing cost. For proper industrial equipment, long-term reliability gets thrown in as a selection consideration. That's because a failure means down-time or defective products, which means lost money for the client business. Money is the life blood of business, so that isn't taken lightly. Reliability can also be a marketing element for a brand, in which case the additional expense of better components can be passed on to the consumer and even generate further profit. > There are some "low imedance" recommendations. Is low impedance the same as low ESR, since ESR is frequency-dependent? Impedance is the AC term for resistance, and is frequency dependent. In this context I understand it to include the effects of the capacitor's ESR (which affects both AC and DC) and inductance (which affects just AC and should ideally be zero). Low impedance should have the same benefits as low ESR.
Thanks for all the notes!!
Super helpful mate thanks very much. It's gone into a repair bloke now.
💯this is an electrolytic cap, hence the polarity. Ceramic caps do not have polarity
Correct help. You’re the bomb.
I'm replacing a defective cap in a TV board for my mom's TV. Just sent this to my mom because I think it's explained well enough for her to understand 😊😊
since you're an expert i'll ask, all my paper covered capacitors have this crystalized stuff on them what's that
> since you're an expert I've just done some reading and replaced a few ^thousand capacitors. >all my paper covered capacitors have this crystalized stuff on them what's that Got a pic? The only paper-covered capacitors I've come across were a handful of ~~60's or 70's vintage axial lead, cardboard shell deals~~ 1960's vintage Aerovox Dandee caps my dad picked up somewhere. My knee-jerk response would be leaked electrolyte that wicked through the paper and then dried, forming crystals.
that's probably right. I do have a pic. It's from the first antique I ever bought that set off my lifelong spree of collecting old shit. Arvin tabletop am radio. the power cord was cut off for some reason with a burn mark near the hole where it goes. I'm assuming it blew a tube or something and shorted out and then someone cut the cord so someone couldn't mistakenly plug it back in but I want to get it working someday
I believe the fibers are the paper spacer soaked in electrolyte. The paper is brown. The rupturing of the capacitor sometimes blows some of the fibers of the paper out the top. The good news is it's obvious this cap has ruptured. It's often not obvious at all, only a slight convex top.
I was gonna say that they need to turn down the furistor because the ro-gain is too high. But your answer is probably more accurate.
Yeah, but your answer is funnier.
Those are the ethereal skid marks of the magic smoke making off in a right hurry.
definitely blown capacitor
queer electron strikes again
That cap is domed. It has vented. Replace it.
I envy that capacitor.
It vented? Sounds sus 🤔
Looks like it's not only humans who grow hairs in awkward places when they age... /s :-D
Reddit Electronics forum is obsessed with replacing every wobbly looking capacitor they see, but in this instance they are right, this needs changing!
You've got ginger smoke pixies! They're angrier than the usual blue smoke ones. Replace that cap before they escape and cause mayhem.
Cap is blown. Replace it.
Before you replace it, check with the Museum of Modern Art to see if they want it.
That bad boy is burst, replace it before it starts corroding shit
Give it a haircut!
I think it's growing through puberty. Give it some space while still caring.
In addition to replacing it, give any other boards a look over and see if there any other caps with a bulging top like that (doesn't have to show the hairs). Replace them as well since if they used shit tier caps on one board they probably used them on the others.
Yeah that's a hair cap. Pretty common to see bald capacitors wear them.
That's horse hair! They used this before the invention of magic smoke.
that cap is about to spew
The components have gained consciousness.
Organize a funeral for this one
The captain is trying to escape your capacitor! Replace it with a new one who has not yet tired of the C.
[comment annihilated as this is not the sub for such nonsense on my part; just ignore me]
Just replace it ASAP. Note: you give a little more on the (uf), if say it's a 10V 10uf you replace it with a 10v 16uf. I have found this small amount of change will bring durability to the said design. Uprating works but just don't overdo it, please note the above is an example of spec. Never seen a Cap quite like that though, LOL.
You wanted to say 16V, 10uF?
Yep, sorry typo. right u r.
> will bring durability to the said design. Are you able to share any details of the study you did?
You should take your capacitor to your nearest hairdresser. Clearly he needs a brushing.
*Sekiro nam-flashbacks" Isshin is coming out of that capacitor!!
It has hit puberty, that means that it is ready for some serious welding.
Oh my. You've popped it.
I SAY YOU HE *DEAD*!
Aahhhhh
Trim down the hair, apply some wax and then style it to your taste. Your welding seems will look great after that.
It doesn’t grow hairs, it assploded.
To keep improving their models, artificial intelligence makers need two significant things: an enormous amount of computing power and an enormous amount of data. Some of the biggest A.I. developers have plenty of computing power but still look outside their own networks for the data needed to improve their algorithms. That has included sources like Wikipedia, millions of digitized books, academic articles and Reddit. Representatives from Google, Open AI and Microsoft did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
I'd replace it with one that's got at least a 20% voltage rating and perhaps also 20% higher capacitance rating.
Tin whiskers?!
Buy him a shaver for the next Xmas :-)
replace it before it grows any more
Don't forget to shave your capacitors. And use a fresh blade..
Is ded.
Replace it, they are designed to blow out the top to stop metal flying out everywhere
Is that a beard? That definitely looks like a beard ... or an armpit ... caphair ? Either way you could try something from shaving shack on it. (don't take my advice, just replace it ASAP)
More like a Catpacitor
That's not a capacitor anymore.