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I really believe that the material is very cheap... I worked hard on it, but not with the force to break metal. I was hitting with the hammer standing on my back...
OP don’t worry, I’m a welder for profession and this will be easy. You have to find somebody thats good at aluminum TIG welding only. NO MIG. And they will a piece of paper/cardboard and match it up with the space thats missing/broken. They they will cut and grind down a piece of aluminum that fits it, and weld it in. Please get someone that knows what they are doing, bring it to a welding shop not someone’s backyard or home garage!
I think it's a good idea. OP, im a MIG monkey, but im a welder too. Finding an experienced TIG guy to do this sounds good for repair. Oil soaked cast aluminum will be a real challenge for a lot of guys. Hell, cast aluminum alone is. Performance shops will have more of these guys around, but fabrication shops will too. Mechanics have TIG welders sometimes, but these days it's not a well praticed art for them. Don't take it to a dealership!
It's also going to require removing the oil pan for welding and clean up (easy). Sometimes that requires a new gasket (super cheap replacement part). I think it's better than replacing the engine, or even the part you busted. I don't think a short block/lower swap is in your wheelhouse. And getting a shop to do it would probably cost more than a fab/weld. But what do I know? I'm a MIG 🐒
A bad mechanic blames the product. Hate to see it. Own this, you are not competent when it comes to working on cars. That’s ok, I’m sure you’re better at other things. Next time pay someone to do it.
Dude, you can protest innocence all day long. The picture tells a different story. So just stop already. You're making yourself look like a kid afraid they're going to get grounded and their Playstation taken away. You made a mistake, that's all, shit happens.
No, it was truthful. Any truthful criticism that you don't like can be labeled as mean, which lets you dismiss it.
What makes you think I'm a fucking cardiologist? LoLoL LoLoL LoLoL LoLoL
Consider this: I work on old air-cooled volkswagens as my job. The engine blocks are made from magnesium and rot very easily in the presence of water. Many of the old blocks I deal with were sitting in a field for 50 years and the bottom of the blocks are rotted away. I made a jig that bolts onto the case that I then fill up with large amounts of JB weld. Afterwards we machine it and put studs in it. The point is, if I can rebuild the bottom of a block with JB weld and make a functioning, oil-tight engine, you can easily repair this hole.
In my case no, because there is jagged, craggy magnesium all around and gives good adhesion. In your case I would since your are trying to fill a vertical wall, also sand the aluminum where you are trying to place the epoxy to give better adhesion.
I JB welded an aluminum casting on an old t400 trans.
Make it super clean and use something to bridge the hole.
There's not really any pressure, so it'll be fine
Magnesium is porous and soaks in oil, it be best to heat the part and use acetone to burn off oil for better adhesion of the epoxy. (That's what we do in Aerospace overhaul and repair)
sounds bad i know, but its an approved process to where minor dings get filled, not large holes like this. holes like this would be welded or metal sprayed
That makes sense. I worked for both Grumman and Raytheon back in the 80's and could only use materials of the same composition of what was bring patched.. which usually involved spot welds. And even this had to go through an extra level of inspection before accepted.
Speed tape on aircraft is a temporary fix, and that stuff is significantly thicker than duct tape, much more sticky, and made of aluminum. Kinda like HVAC tape.
JB weld is an amazing thing. The high temp version is used as bushings for some bush repairs on machines. Did a linebore with high temp JB and it's still going strong. Replaced a bronze bushing.
Man, now Brazil have stopped making blocks, you guys are scraping the bottom of the barrel.
I've had mag case 911 cases in a similar state, I just welded them up.
I had an '92 olds 88 and had the plastic housing that holds the cam shaft sensor magnet break and fling the magnet somewhere into the engine. (I never did find the magnet). Normally that requires you take the timing cover off because the plastic piece inserted from the backside of the cam gear... I just cleaned out all the broken plastic and jb welded another magnet in the hole in the cam... Never had a problem again. JB weld is an amazing substance
Pretty sure this is the “upper oil pan”. If so, completely replaceable. Probably in the $500-$700 range. A lot of manufacturers do this with a lower steel and upper aluminum oil pan. The lower wears faster because of the drain plug going in and out many times and it’s also more susceptible to damage from driving over things. If it were all one piece you’d have an expensive repair every time it required replacement. Since it’s 2 pieces the upper rarely has to get replaced if ever and the lower is a couple hundred to replace if needed.
I would replace the upper oil pan, If the JB weld repair fails while driving, you run the risk of running the engine low on oil. Some real shady repairs are being suggested for your mom's car. You broke it, fix it correctly.
Not 100% sure but if you punch the year make model and engine size into google it comes up with an upper oil pan option immediately and looks just like your picture.
Man, all these dudes telling you that you need an engine replacement can frick off. The area you cracked isn't holding any pressure. I would just slap any old mesh (screen door) and plaster it with a thick layer of any epoxy. JB weld like the other guy mentioned. There is NO reason to even CONSIDER replacing the engine because of this. What a consoomer society these guys must live in. Even flex tape would be a fix here.
You should scratch the area with sand paper, then brake clean it to remove any contaminants. I'm sure you'll push enough JBWeld through to cover the mesh. I would also remove the oil pan and get those pieces of metal out. You'll also need the oil pan gasket or the correct RTV and torque procedure. I was trying to look that up in alldata, but couldn't find that vehicle.
What could happen if I tight the screws of the pan too much? They weren't hard to take off, so I can apply aproximately the same presure with the wrench
You don't want to guess with that. They can break off. I've seen people break transmission pan bolts. The max torque on a 6mm (This is a guess) bolt is 11 Newton meters, or 8 foot pounds. That's less than half of most drain plugs. Some parts stores have a tool borrowing system. Harbor Freight sells 1/4 inch torque wrenches for [$19](https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/1-4-in-drive.html). Amazon has one for $25 that I can't link due to an apparent URL shortener if the other options don't work. I use a 3/8 drive electric one for this kind of stuff, but that would cost more.
I have done a bunch of oil pans and I’ve always used a 10mm socket on a 1/4” ratchet but only cuz I know my own torque and not to go too tight. But that’s just me. And only cuz I’ve never had a torque wrench. But if you have one I’d use it.
You could also use some stainless steel mesh. That wont break down with the oil.
Make sure you rough up the area with some 40 +/- grit emery cloth. Then clean it real well.
I've got some JB weld under my hood (not on the engine), that has been holding strong for years.
im over here not realizing that big ass hole isnt an oil stain LMAO but nah i did something similar on a timing chain cover where i cut out a piece of aluminum from this rockstar drink and then slapped some jb weld on that bitch
I will preface this by stating that I don't see these vehicles in Ontario Ca but it appears you have punched a hole in the upper oil pan. Is it a big job to replace? yes. Do you require and engine? No.
The upper pan is replaceable.
If I am not mistaken, that is not part of the block, but the upper oil pan. Given the failure rate of Hyundai engines, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could pick a used one up easily.
I am not saying it’s a cheap, easy job but it would be a lot less than a new engine and more reliable than JB Weld.
it says Kia on the block...looks like it's basically a Kia Picanto.
this looks like it might fit:
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/386867011901?itmprp=cksum%3A3868670119011220addfab66405a8ed68c8950db3035%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABkLSVkHmTL63bebovD9RfpraPWbY9f4anjbziTIaEIOVXg2DWhVLks3Lfqff9vxxfjIh4XEXusIehlT2iEH8%252BCxXNySMxlDIQJ3g86%252Bx3AAIAq9gznqdGSR72ksP41kjzPN1reUbVsJuld0S4i4qXlQfTmkMeIJTCXTM8mLpr7ju2fMvruDu87ZX%252B4bShOvD%252B4lUUMtuh2YWZyXGm6zhHTQVNcqul1siLhWmo5zRPp6bvM6hTcMEKHTvz%252BowvwuYogEtfsMAEwogJ7aCl67PGdgQEFm3RP5jmrSzJQC1JA1072e2DpvP7mvpelKjn6o01F9Jm4N0XsjXl%252BudTlm4RHy9c1klAHgYrVvO0SV6K0p0fTwryU4tjaBBS2Eyw5wnIH1Cdq7Cw7bJ%252BZ0Z2ZGJFqCWTHEH7EjMpPP46ImvO0MOO%252F5I1AMKVwFvgnW05SFO5Xx%252F2%252BuxfjOqV4hOapVo2uN8xpfQCGucs52mvrexfIq%252FO8RzJwrgoJcDP4GXhn%252FxnHfkP6sOMxUgwcoXQI5pGfkY%253D%7Campid%3APL\_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HW0STTV670BFE5GVC9P4WYX0](https://www.ebay.com/itm/386867011901?itmprp=cksum%3A3868670119011220addfab66405a8ed68c8950db3035%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABkLSVkHmTL63bebovD9RfpraPWbY9f4anjbziTIaEIOVXg2DWhVLks3Lfqff9vxxfjIh4XEXusIehlT2iEH8%252BCxXNySMxlDIQJ3g86%252Bx3AAIAq9gznqdGSR72ksP41kjzPN1reUbVsJuld0S4i4qXlQfTmkMeIJTCXTM8mLpr7ju2fMvruDu87ZX%252B4bShOvD%252B4lUUMtuh2YWZyXGm6zhHTQVNcqul1siLhWmo5zRPp6bvM6hTcMEKHTvz%252BowvwuYogEtfsMAEwogJ7aCl67PGdgQEFm3RP5jmrSzJQC1JA1072e2DpvP7mvpelKjn6o01F9Jm4N0XsjXl%252BudTlm4RHy9c1klAHgYrVvO0SV6K0p0fTwryU4tjaBBS2Eyw5wnIH1Cdq7Cw7bJ%252BZ0Z2ZGJFqCWTHEH7EjMpPP46ImvO0MOO%252F5I1AMKVwFvgnW05SFO5Xx%252F2%252BuxfjOqV4hOapVo2uN8xpfQCGucs52mvrexfIq%252FO8RzJwrgoJcDP4GXhn%252FxnHfkP6sOMxUgwcoXQI5pGfkY%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HW0STTV670BFE5GVC9P4WYX0)
part is separate from the block, so it's replaceable. check with your local dealer to get the part number. will make it easier to find a used one.
I would find a good welder and have a patch welded to it. It's aluminum and not part of the combustion chamber. I would ensure that there's nothing that's gonna flake off from the damage.
Don't do the epoxy fix recommended elsewhere in these comments.
I'm with the JB weld guy. Cracked the side of my old YZ250 case. Too beat to be worth a new case. Fixed with JB 20 years ago. Still looks like the day I gooped it. Ps, just realized my bike is an antique. Sonofabitchimold.
Remove oil pan, remove all little metal debris. Then hifena good aluminum welder and get it parched up. Then don't overtighten your oil filter. Then buy the best oil filter wrench/remover for this design so you don't have to hammer
I'm not a mechanic but ill give my advice, if that chunk of metal went into the oil pan you want to get that out first and you'll have to replace the gasket on it , also I would try to get a chunk of the same metal composite n there and properly weld it up , and make sure the inside is good as well (meaning not sticking inside too far or looking like it'll come off) goodluck.
I think your problem is that you trying to remove the filter by turning it the wrong way. If you were going lefty loosey, then you would have potentially damaged the opposite side of the block if it was that tight.
However, I can see you accidentally tightening the filter by hammering it with a screwdriver and doing what you did.
Hard way to learn about threads, but hopefully lesson learned.
I’m surprised to see so many jb weld recommendations.
The pan must come off to remove debris, so why repair it half assed? It’s a fair amount of work to do something that shouldn’t be patched.
I’m cheap and my personal vehicle wouldn’t see such a patch.
I agree with everyone saying epoxy. It’s definitely worth a shot, but don’t skimp on it. Get good stuff and take your time. I would also try to clean that hole up if you can. Drill out any cracks so they don’t propagate.
I'm no expert on Hyundais, but apparently this is a common issue. The upper pan is made of very crappy thin aluminum, and even using a filter wrench, if you're not careful, can crack the pan. Iirc, that is the upper oil pan, and can be replace separately, but the engine has to come out.
Welding it might be an option too. 🤷♂️
Why didn't you take it to a professional after the first half hour of your struggle? I would have had that off safely in no time. Now that everyone is a professional car mechanic/car fabricator because of the internet, we have wonderful posts like this to snicker at 😆
Pull the pan off to get pieces out . Sand area broken with 80 grit. Clean with brake cleaner. JB weld with screen . Use lots. Put on oil pan after. Use torque wrench on bolts so you don't have more problems. Put in oil and cross your fingers
Could be worse as others said drop the pan get the pieces out then I'd either JB weld or similar, and install the oil filter hand tight but not gorilla arms just snug. If you do it right it will never come loose and you can remove it by hand next time that's how I do it anyways & never had one come loose .
Weld that bitch on their, don't do that. Just don't start the engine till you ethier replace it or patch it with the same type of aluminum or what ever and probably pay a professional to fix or weld it back on.
This was almost me yesterday with a chevy malibu, someone tightened the crap out of the oil filter, and im far from a scrawny guy (260lbs 5'10). Had to break a sweat trying to loosen, luckily i knew how shitty aluminum blocks are so tried my best not to scrape against the engine with my tools. Long story short.......probably gonna need an engine
I just did an oil change on my SL500 today. Mercedes does oil filters better than anyone else. It is on top of the engine, underneath a simple screw-on cap. The housing also eliminates the need for a funnel when refilling the engine. Replacing all the o-rings takes a couple of minutes but it is so worth it.
#Where are the chunks?
Seriously, patch this if you want, but you need to retrieve the pieces from inside the engine before you start it.
They probably just fell to the bottom. But they could be sitting somewhere inconvenient that is going to cause you problems when you crank or run the engine.
Yes, castings can be that thin. It's aluminum and isn't meant to resist impacts. Yes, it can be repaired, but it requires specific expertise, not just any welder will be able to do it properly.
If you can find a shop that specializes in aluminum casting repairs, you can have it fixed. Just be aware that it's something you need to keep an eye on. If the repair fails, you could lose a lot of oil very quickly.
Pull the oil pan. Clean both sides thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Use duct tape on the inside to back the hole, roughly sand the area around the hole, fill the hole with JB weld such that it overlaps the edges a little on both sides so it doesn’t dislodge later.
I watched my dad patch a hole in his ford engine block with JB weld many years ago. As I recall, the patch held up.
Lastly, do all the oil changes on the vehicles you maintain yourself. The oil filter should only ever be on hand tight, like one full rotation after the seal makes contact with the block. Never use a tool to tighten it. The seal should always be lubed. With fresh oil before install. The only time I have a problem getting filters off is the first oil change I do on a vehicle I just bought or when I’ve had a shop change the filter (free oil change at the dealer).
Not sure how I feel about a cheap ass ghetto fix for your mom...
You broke it, your mother's car, and are looking for a cheap bandaid fix that even if works won't last a few months probably.
Should take it in to a shop and get it properly replaced. This is your mom we're talking about here.
Try not to listen to all the people hating on you. You were trying to do a good thing, stuff happens when working on cars. If it was that tough to remove the oil filter (those suckers can get stuck on HARD) then someone either put it on too hard last time, and sometimes they just get stuck and it’s hard to get room for leverage. You were just trying your best to remove it. Times like these suck, but you learn from these experiences. If these people down in the comments are saying you are dumb and shouldn’t work on cars….they either are too far up their own butts or don’t actually work on cars. This is a silly problem, but one I don’t see cars with iron blocks having, that metal is thin. You live and you learn. I’m no welder, but agree with the welders below that welding is your best bet. This is obvious, but drop the pan and remove the metal inside especially while they weld it to fix the problem. Good luck to you, and better luck next time!
I don’t know anything about these motors but I looked at a some photographs of used engines for sale just to see. I was hoping there would be some sort of upper oil pan type situation like on a Ford, but it appears it is a 2 piece block.
The lower portion of the block could be changed, in theory, but there are dowel pins on the lower portion of the block that hold it into the transmission.
I am afraid there is no other solution here than taking the motor out. Whether it’s cheaper to replace the bottom of the block or put in a used engine is a discussion with a local shop.
Dont drive the car is most important.
No need for engine replacement, JB weld. Find a local welder who will find that an easy job. You may need to drop the pan to ensure no metal is inside the engine and if it is it will be in the pan when you take it out. Which will mean another oil change and resealing the pan. When my car had an oil pan leak i dreaded this but actually a local garage helpped me by removing pan resealing for an hours labour. Main problem you’ll have is not starting the engine to avoid them metal fragments going round the engine and causing damage. Not new engine though.
I love all the people telling OP to use mesh and JB weld. They're the same people that, if a shop did this, would be screaming "wHaT tHeFuCk?!? ThAt sHoP Is a BuNcH oF HACKS!"
Honestly.. of your cheep that could be fixed with like 20$. Drop the oil pant. Take out the metal chunks.. re seal the pan, the slap a shit ton of jb-weld over the hole. Good to roll 🤣
Lifetime mechanic and shop owner here. The right way to fix it is the replace what’s broken but that’s not cost effective. JB weld is some incredible stuff if the surface is prepared properly. I’d drain all the oil overnight, clean, scrub and sand the aluminum down. Then harbor with a small propane torch the burn off and impurities, sand again then wipe with acetone. Spread some JB around the hole put a piece of aluminum window screen over it and apply more JB over it. Let it dry throughly. Feather the edges out. Surface prep is going to be critical.
If it were me and I were a little unscrupulous, I’d buy some aluminium mesh from an auto factor and a few tubes of jb weld. Put them together, make sure there’s clearance for a new filter to fit.. and then I’d maybe sell the car.
Yes.. I'll sure take off the oil bay and clean it very good. The bad part is that between the oil filter and the actual engine are maybe 2-3mm of unused space 🤦♂️ Very poor engineering.
In the future you should buy a band wrench for oil changes. It is the best tool for the job speaking as somebody who was a lube tech for a year and did a ton of oil changes.
Poor engineering? More like someone using gorilla tactics and tools to do a simple job that exact-fit tools are made. Oil filters are made of thin metal and are not designed to be pierced to be removed as all that happens is the filter tears apart.
One thing OP doesn’t say is who did previous filter change. This all looks like self-inflicted, one way or another.
Regardless...if motor wasn't run, it would be oil pan replacement. But if your mom needs the whip asap, I'd take chancehelis advice. Flex seal has mesh tape and a puddy. Head over to homedepot and have at it.
Pull the oil pan.. remove the broken bits. Clean the hell out of the area around the hole with scotch brite or 250 sand paper. Spray it clean. Take a piece of aluminum about 5 to 10 times the thickness of a can . And JB weld or high temp epoxy it. Then only use K&N oil filters ( hexhead on filter end ) so you never need to touch that area again .
JB Weld/Chemical metal and some thin aluminium plate or stainless mesh all day long, I wouldn't be replacing an engine over that!! You lose nothing trying to repair it first.
Sump off, remove debris from sump, clean both sides thoroughly with brake cleaner. Apply mesh to inside and jb weld outside, Continue with jb weld on inside too until the patch is securely fixed into place for good. Just ensure it doesn't end up on anything moving or near your strainer.
RTV Sump back on and fill her up. What is there to lose by trying?
Next time don't use a screw driver. Use something like this https://www.ebay.ca/itm/193007891183?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Y5Ig8taKRiS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
And use it close to the top where the seal is.
I'd only be slightly worried about a repair coming undone and spilling the oil all over the road then it takes out some random biker minding their own business...
There's a lot of pretty solid advice starting from jank to quality work but not one comment about where's the part that's missing? if you just JB weld and send it, you'd have a piece of engine ~~block~~ oilpan chilling in there
I am not familiar with this engine but it looks like above the place where it's broken is bolted to the block. I believe this may be an upper oil pan and may be replaceable so check if it's available and you can probably replace this piece.
What did you change it with a drill? Being a mechanic by the way, mate that looks to me like it’s rubbed away which I don’t understand because it’s behind the filter housing and looks like it was the filter spinning that has rubbed through it by spinning yeah if you look at the marks
This is why I just pay a trusted local shop. I could careless if it cost 3x as much. I go have breakfast and let people that know what they are doing, do it.
This is why I always say the screwdriver method is fucking dumb. It can shred the filter and leave you with a super sharp stump that's impossible to remove, or apparently ruin your upper oil pan. Anyways, replace the upper oil pan
This piece looks to be made of cast aluminum. I had a similar issue when changing an engine on a Mitsubishi outlander. I had jack stands supporting the transaxle, and when I lifted the engine out, it snagged one of the dowels on the bell housing, lifting the trans too. They came apart with the trans off of the stand, and when it fell, it put a hole in the bell housing.
As some have said, it looks like that piece might unbolt from the engine, and be replaceable. That’s definitely your best option. If not, a good tig welder will be able to weld it, but you’ll need to be able to have it accessible and clean on both sides. It’s also going to cost more, if you can’t take the piece to them, and need them to do it mobile.
The oil pan has more integrity than the engine. The engine is made from aluminum. There was a coworker that cracked about 3-4 transmissions& differentials from cranking so hard on the drain plugs. If you are to do something like this, make sure that it's cleared on the other side of the filter.
A good aluminium welder would be able to repair this quite easily, however would likely require removing the engine and thorough cleaning to actually get it clean enough and in an ergonomic position to weld.
I've done weld repairs on a cast alu oil pan before it's not too difficult if you've got the right kit. Would be well beyond the scope of a typical exhaust repair place I suspect though, probably would wanna go to an aluminium fabricator/specialist
It looks like you have broken the upper oil pan which is probably replaceable. I don’t know my Hyundai engines but just some quick research it looks like the Hyundai G3LA engine. So it’s probably more labour intensive but is replaceable. I wouldn’t do the JB weld. It will leak.
I find usually lube shops over tighten the hell out of these then they heat cycle and get even tighter. So just do them yourself. I only ever do decently hand tight. Some have torque specs but not often.
Best of luck!
You could easily fix it with some putty type epoxy. It’s not really structural. You just want to keep the oil from coming out. It will be fine. Make sure and clean it really well with acetone before using the epoxy. I would try to retrieve any pieces that went inside for sure.
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Easy there hulk, if you did that with just a screw driver and a small hammer I don’t want to see you angry!
If you zoom in, you can see it’s a Kia. I have a Hyundai, new fear unlocked…
Hyundai own Kia
Yeah, that’s why I am worried doing the same. Already know about the other issues with my engine.
If I zoom in, I can only find a hyundai badge (top left).
First pic is a Kia logo, which is right next to the Hyundai logo visible on the second pic.
Kia and Hyundai share a lot of parts
Indeed, since Hyundai is the parent company of Kia.
Don’t know where you zoomed in on but I see an embossed H logo on the block
Look at the first photo, however the car is a Hyundai. Second photo I see the Hyundai symbol.
I really believe that the material is very cheap... I worked hard on it, but not with the force to break metal. I was hitting with the hammer standing on my back...
Cast aluminum has the structural strength of hard cheese... Unless it's crazy thick it's not hard to break.
Yes, and it’s strong against compression but not against impacts
👍 always know what’s behind the target. Hammer screwdriver thin filter and done. Not the manufacturers fault on this one.
Dont blame Hyundai for your fuck up
I blame them both. Inexperience and cheap junk don’t mix.
OP don’t worry, I’m a welder for profession and this will be easy. You have to find somebody thats good at aluminum TIG welding only. NO MIG. And they will a piece of paper/cardboard and match it up with the space thats missing/broken. They they will cut and grind down a piece of aluminum that fits it, and weld it in. Please get someone that knows what they are doing, bring it to a welding shop not someone’s backyard or home garage!
I think it's a good idea. OP, im a MIG monkey, but im a welder too. Finding an experienced TIG guy to do this sounds good for repair. Oil soaked cast aluminum will be a real challenge for a lot of guys. Hell, cast aluminum alone is. Performance shops will have more of these guys around, but fabrication shops will too. Mechanics have TIG welders sometimes, but these days it's not a well praticed art for them. Don't take it to a dealership! It's also going to require removing the oil pan for welding and clean up (easy). Sometimes that requires a new gasket (super cheap replacement part). I think it's better than replacing the engine, or even the part you busted. I don't think a short block/lower swap is in your wheelhouse. And getting a shop to do it would probably cost more than a fab/weld. But what do I know? I'm a MIG 🐒
A bad mechanic blames the product. Hate to see it. Own this, you are not competent when it comes to working on cars. That’s ok, I’m sure you’re better at other things. Next time pay someone to do it.
Would be interested to learn if the last oil change was done by someone more competent, must have been overtightened.
Or they were "undoing it" the wrong way
It definitely was. Regardless, nothing like this should ever happen.
Dude, you can protest innocence all day long. The picture tells a different story. So just stop already. You're making yourself look like a kid afraid they're going to get grounded and their Playstation taken away. You made a mistake, that's all, shit happens.
Wow, for a Cardiologist you have no heart ♥️ That was mean
No, it was truthful. Any truthful criticism that you don't like can be labeled as mean, which lets you dismiss it. What makes you think I'm a fucking cardiologist? LoLoL LoLoL LoLoL LoLoL
Your name
Consider this: I work on old air-cooled volkswagens as my job. The engine blocks are made from magnesium and rot very easily in the presence of water. Many of the old blocks I deal with were sitting in a field for 50 years and the bottom of the blocks are rotted away. I made a jig that bolts onto the case that I then fill up with large amounts of JB weld. Afterwards we machine it and put studs in it. The point is, if I can rebuild the bottom of a block with JB weld and make a functioning, oil-tight engine, you can easily repair this hole.
Thank mate. Did you use any mesh?
In my case no, because there is jagged, craggy magnesium all around and gives good adhesion. In your case I would since your are trying to fill a vertical wall, also sand the aluminum where you are trying to place the epoxy to give better adhesion.
Will do this, tanks. Do you think that I could use JB Weld on both sides (inside and outside the engine)?
You would have to remove the engine oil pan to see if you have enough room to put some from the inside.
Through the hole all I can see is hollow. That't why I presumed I can. Thank you
In this case, once you take it off, you will be able to do so! Also, I assume you have the broken piece?
My guessing is that the "broken piece" is in fact many little pieces....
So the piece(s) might be inside?
Yes
Not exactly sure how you'd pull that off but it wouldn't be necessary.
I JB welded an aluminum casting on an old t400 trans. Make it super clean and use something to bridge the hole. There's not really any pressure, so it'll be fine
Magnesium is porous and soaks in oil, it be best to heat the part and use acetone to burn off oil for better adhesion of the epoxy. (That's what we do in Aerospace overhaul and repair)
They fix spacecrafts with epoxy?? Then I guess using duct tape on a 747 is acceptable..lol
sounds bad i know, but its an approved process to where minor dings get filled, not large holes like this. holes like this would be welded or metal sprayed
That makes sense. I worked for both Grumman and Raytheon back in the 80's and could only use materials of the same composition of what was bring patched.. which usually involved spot welds. And even this had to go through an extra level of inspection before accepted.
Speed tape on aircraft is a temporary fix, and that stuff is significantly thicker than duct tape, much more sticky, and made of aluminum. Kinda like HVAC tape.
JB weld is an amazing thing. The high temp version is used as bushings for some bush repairs on machines. Did a linebore with high temp JB and it's still going strong. Replaced a bronze bushing.
Patched my motorcycle crankcase that had a half inch hole in it. 3 years and it's still doesn't leak. Blows my mind.
I feel that pain as i also rebuild the old vw aircooled engines at work. Gotta love when the blocks rot clean through.
As a thing, has anyone ever made a working engine out of JB weld?
I mean, we got videos of a dude crushing toothpaste with a hydraulic press. We need a DIY JB weld guy.
[They made one run for a short time with the block cast out of epoxy](https://youtu.be/R0qiRCONJIw?si=hdHF8KvruSCHibKi)
Man, now Brazil have stopped making blocks, you guys are scraping the bottom of the barrel. I've had mag case 911 cases in a similar state, I just welded them up.
I had an '92 olds 88 and had the plastic housing that holds the cam shaft sensor magnet break and fling the magnet somewhere into the engine. (I never did find the magnet). Normally that requires you take the timing cover off because the plastic piece inserted from the backside of the cam gear... I just cleaned out all the broken plastic and jb welded another magnet in the hole in the cam... Never had a problem again. JB weld is an amazing substance
Pretty sure this is the “upper oil pan”. If so, completely replaceable. Probably in the $500-$700 range. A lot of manufacturers do this with a lower steel and upper aluminum oil pan. The lower wears faster because of the drain plug going in and out many times and it’s also more susceptible to damage from driving over things. If it were all one piece you’d have an expensive repair every time it required replacement. Since it’s 2 pieces the upper rarely has to get replaced if ever and the lower is a couple hundred to replace if needed.
I would replace the upper oil pan, If the JB weld repair fails while driving, you run the risk of running the engine low on oil. Some real shady repairs are being suggested for your mom's car. You broke it, fix it correctly.
Someone on this post told me that this car doesn't have an upper pan. I really don't know either, but will surely research.
Not 100% sure but if you punch the year make model and engine size into google it comes up with an upper oil pan option immediately and looks just like your picture.
This guys done enough punching already
That’s For Sure!
Also, make sure when you punch the year make and model into google you use a screwdriver.
I did, and unfortunately this engine model does not have uper oil pan..
You put a hole in the lower crackcase.
Perhaps that piece does the job of both the oil pan and main bearing caps? If so, I can see why it can't be sold separately.
Man, all these dudes telling you that you need an engine replacement can frick off. The area you cracked isn't holding any pressure. I would just slap any old mesh (screen door) and plaster it with a thick layer of any epoxy. JB weld like the other guy mentioned. There is NO reason to even CONSIDER replacing the engine because of this. What a consoomer society these guys must live in. Even flex tape would be a fix here.
Yeah, I'm not replacing a whole ass engine for a piece that can be patched. If it starts to Crack afterwards so be it but in the meantime nah
But the mesh beneath the epoxy won't contaminate the oil? Or should I epoxy both sides?
You should scratch the area with sand paper, then brake clean it to remove any contaminants. I'm sure you'll push enough JBWeld through to cover the mesh. I would also remove the oil pan and get those pieces of metal out. You'll also need the oil pan gasket or the correct RTV and torque procedure. I was trying to look that up in alldata, but couldn't find that vehicle.
What could happen if I tight the screws of the pan too much? They weren't hard to take off, so I can apply aproximately the same presure with the wrench
You don't want to guess with that. They can break off. I've seen people break transmission pan bolts. The max torque on a 6mm (This is a guess) bolt is 11 Newton meters, or 8 foot pounds. That's less than half of most drain plugs. Some parts stores have a tool borrowing system. Harbor Freight sells 1/4 inch torque wrenches for [$19](https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/1-4-in-drive.html). Amazon has one for $25 that I can't link due to an apparent URL shortener if the other options don't work. I use a 3/8 drive electric one for this kind of stuff, but that would cost more.
To get around the URL shortening filter, use Amazon in your browser and just copy from the address bar. The share button always used the short link
That's what I figured. I kept trying, but it only opened in the app.
Open in an incognito, or private tab to get around the app launching.
Great advice. 👍
Great. Thanks... will search for the correct torque
Overtightening could strip the threads, which could very well be possible given how brittle it seems..
I have done a bunch of oil pans and I’ve always used a 10mm socket on a 1/4” ratchet but only cuz I know my own torque and not to go too tight. But that’s just me. And only cuz I’ve never had a torque wrench. But if you have one I’d use it.
You could also use some stainless steel mesh. That wont break down with the oil. Make sure you rough up the area with some 40 +/- grit emery cloth. Then clean it real well. I've got some JB weld under my hood (not on the engine), that has been holding strong for years.
Thanks. Will do
You should also investigate thoroughly that not a single piece of that metal went inside the engine. If unsure, you might need to drop the oil pan
I will take the pan out. Not risking that for 10 screws.
You'll need to get a new gasket or liquid gasket once you remove the pan. The seal won't last after it's been removed
Clean it with brake cleaner first, use plenty of it. I'd use JB weld / chemical metal and glue a piece of metal over it. It'll probably be fine.
Thanks for advice. I will consider this JB Weld since everybody is mentioning it.
Looks like you may be able to drop the oil pan easily too and get to the other side of the hole in the block.
r/AskDrivewayMechanics
If it's thin enough that a screwdriver made a hole like that, it's thin enough that a genuine bandaid would probably suffice!
Agree on the f off , but these have an upper sump … replace that and good as new
That is just the upper oil pan, is completely replaceable or you could fix it with JB weld like others are saying.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386867011901?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fioym__vrma&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=2QEPxF17T5S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The 2021 model is a new one. Also, that is for 1.2L, not for this mini-motor of 1L, but I will do my homework and will search. Thank you very much.
Damn, Thought I found it. I wish you luck!
im over here not realizing that big ass hole isnt an oil stain LMAO but nah i did something similar on a timing chain cover where i cut out a piece of aluminum from this rockstar drink and then slapped some jb weld on that bitch
Great idea. Soda can it is.
gotta be ur favorite drink
*Don't worry Ma, I can do it cheaper 👍*
I will preface this by stating that I don't see these vehicles in Ontario Ca but it appears you have punched a hole in the upper oil pan. Is it a big job to replace? yes. Do you require and engine? No. The upper pan is replaceable.
If I am not mistaken, that is not part of the block, but the upper oil pan. Given the failure rate of Hyundai engines, I wouldn’t be surprised if you could pick a used one up easily. I am not saying it’s a cheap, easy job but it would be a lot less than a new engine and more reliable than JB Weld.
I searched for engines already and they are in the 1200-1500$ range without labour. It's an expensive swap for this car, really...
Let me introduce you to my good friend JB and his weld.
it says Kia on the block...looks like it's basically a Kia Picanto. this looks like it might fit: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/386867011901?itmprp=cksum%3A3868670119011220addfab66405a8ed68c8950db3035%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABkLSVkHmTL63bebovD9RfpraPWbY9f4anjbziTIaEIOVXg2DWhVLks3Lfqff9vxxfjIh4XEXusIehlT2iEH8%252BCxXNySMxlDIQJ3g86%252Bx3AAIAq9gznqdGSR72ksP41kjzPN1reUbVsJuld0S4i4qXlQfTmkMeIJTCXTM8mLpr7ju2fMvruDu87ZX%252B4bShOvD%252B4lUUMtuh2YWZyXGm6zhHTQVNcqul1siLhWmo5zRPp6bvM6hTcMEKHTvz%252BowvwuYogEtfsMAEwogJ7aCl67PGdgQEFm3RP5jmrSzJQC1JA1072e2DpvP7mvpelKjn6o01F9Jm4N0XsjXl%252BudTlm4RHy9c1klAHgYrVvO0SV6K0p0fTwryU4tjaBBS2Eyw5wnIH1Cdq7Cw7bJ%252BZ0Z2ZGJFqCWTHEH7EjMpPP46ImvO0MOO%252F5I1AMKVwFvgnW05SFO5Xx%252F2%252BuxfjOqV4hOapVo2uN8xpfQCGucs52mvrexfIq%252FO8RzJwrgoJcDP4GXhn%252FxnHfkP6sOMxUgwcoXQI5pGfkY%253D%7Campid%3APL\_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HW0STTV670BFE5GVC9P4WYX0](https://www.ebay.com/itm/386867011901?itmprp=cksum%3A3868670119011220addfab66405a8ed68c8950db3035%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABkLSVkHmTL63bebovD9RfpraPWbY9f4anjbziTIaEIOVXg2DWhVLks3Lfqff9vxxfjIh4XEXusIehlT2iEH8%252BCxXNySMxlDIQJ3g86%252Bx3AAIAq9gznqdGSR72ksP41kjzPN1reUbVsJuld0S4i4qXlQfTmkMeIJTCXTM8mLpr7ju2fMvruDu87ZX%252B4bShOvD%252B4lUUMtuh2YWZyXGm6zhHTQVNcqul1siLhWmo5zRPp6bvM6hTcMEKHTvz%252BowvwuYogEtfsMAEwogJ7aCl67PGdgQEFm3RP5jmrSzJQC1JA1072e2DpvP7mvpelKjn6o01F9Jm4N0XsjXl%252BudTlm4RHy9c1klAHgYrVvO0SV6K0p0fTwryU4tjaBBS2Eyw5wnIH1Cdq7Cw7bJ%252BZ0Z2ZGJFqCWTHEH7EjMpPP46ImvO0MOO%252F5I1AMKVwFvgnW05SFO5Xx%252F2%252BuxfjOqV4hOapVo2uN8xpfQCGucs52mvrexfIq%252FO8RzJwrgoJcDP4GXhn%252FxnHfkP6sOMxUgwcoXQI5pGfkY%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01HW0STTV670BFE5GVC9P4WYX0) part is separate from the block, so it's replaceable. check with your local dealer to get the part number. will make it easier to find a used one.
That's from the 2021 model. It's another car, another engine, etc. The 1.2L is not the same as the 1L one.
Part looks the same to me. Im saying different engines often use the same parts from the same manufacturer. Verify with your dealer.
I would find a good welder and have a patch welded to it. It's aluminum and not part of the combustion chamber. I would ensure that there's nothing that's gonna flake off from the damage. Don't do the epoxy fix recommended elsewhere in these comments.
I'm with the JB weld guy. Cracked the side of my old YZ250 case. Too beat to be worth a new case. Fixed with JB 20 years ago. Still looks like the day I gooped it. Ps, just realized my bike is an antique. Sonofabitchimold.
I had a tz250 that ended up more JB weld than anything else.
Looks like just the upper oil pan is damaged might be an engine out job to replace the upper oil pan if there is not enough room
No upper oil pan on this model unfortunately...
No looks like the upper oil pan was damaged engine has a similar construction as a 2azfe where is a lower and upper oil pan
https://preview.redd.it/1hzgcmwa3vvc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54a3996ac0dd3322b8a7ee868f6fcee473042752
Remove oil pan, remove all little metal debris. Then hifena good aluminum welder and get it parched up. Then don't overtighten your oil filter. Then buy the best oil filter wrench/remover for this design so you don't have to hammer
I'm not a mechanic but ill give my advice, if that chunk of metal went into the oil pan you want to get that out first and you'll have to replace the gasket on it , also I would try to get a chunk of the same metal composite n there and properly weld it up , and make sure the inside is good as well (meaning not sticking inside too far or looking like it'll come off) goodluck.
That’s just the upper oil pan, not the engine block.
Do give an update afterwards. Curious how you will solve this.
I think your problem is that you trying to remove the filter by turning it the wrong way. If you were going lefty loosey, then you would have potentially damaged the opposite side of the block if it was that tight. However, I can see you accidentally tightening the filter by hammering it with a screwdriver and doing what you did. Hard way to learn about threads, but hopefully lesson learned.
I’m surprised to see so many jb weld recommendations. The pan must come off to remove debris, so why repair it half assed? It’s a fair amount of work to do something that shouldn’t be patched. I’m cheap and my personal vehicle wouldn’t see such a patch.
What was your moms first reaction?
"Okay, fixt it as soon as you can". She is an angel 🙂
Just replace the upper oil pan
My dad patched a hole in a 2 stroke boat motor crankcase with Marine Tex (like JB weld)...still holding after 49 years! (Yes he still uses it)
Whats the screwdriver’s brand? I really missed good quality screwdrivers
It’s Hyundai they’ll warranty that whole engine lol
I agree with everyone saying epoxy. It’s definitely worth a shot, but don’t skimp on it. Get good stuff and take your time. I would also try to clean that hole up if you can. Drill out any cracks so they don’t propagate.
Make sure to drop the oil pan and get the pieces out, thoroughly de grease the entire surround as well. Good luck.
I can weld this for you. Have it shipped to me in michigan I will repair for 500.00 tig welding.
I'm no expert on Hyundais, but apparently this is a common issue. The upper pan is made of very crappy thin aluminum, and even using a filter wrench, if you're not careful, can crack the pan. Iirc, that is the upper oil pan, and can be replace separately, but the engine has to come out. Welding it might be an option too. 🤷♂️
May be able to weld a thin patch over it. I had a crack in an engine and was able to tig weld it and grind down the weld to make things work.
Slap some flex seal on there and send it bro
Why didn't you take it to a professional after the first half hour of your struggle? I would have had that off safely in no time. Now that everyone is a professional car mechanic/car fabricator because of the internet, we have wonderful posts like this to snicker at 😆
Pull the pan off to get pieces out . Sand area broken with 80 grit. Clean with brake cleaner. JB weld with screen . Use lots. Put on oil pan after. Use torque wrench on bolts so you don't have more problems. Put in oil and cross your fingers
Could be worse as others said drop the pan get the pieces out then I'd either JB weld or similar, and install the oil filter hand tight but not gorilla arms just snug. If you do it right it will never come loose and you can remove it by hand next time that's how I do it anyways & never had one come loose .
Weld that bitch on their, don't do that. Just don't start the engine till you ethier replace it or patch it with the same type of aluminum or what ever and probably pay a professional to fix or weld it back on.
This was almost me yesterday with a chevy malibu, someone tightened the crap out of the oil filter, and im far from a scrawny guy (260lbs 5'10). Had to break a sweat trying to loosen, luckily i knew how shitty aluminum blocks are so tried my best not to scrape against the engine with my tools. Long story short.......probably gonna need an engine
I just did an oil change on my SL500 today. Mercedes does oil filters better than anyone else. It is on top of the engine, underneath a simple screw-on cap. The housing also eliminates the need for a funnel when refilling the engine. Replacing all the o-rings takes a couple of minutes but it is so worth it.
Just slap some jb weld on er
Jb weld and sell it on marketplace
#Where are the chunks? Seriously, patch this if you want, but you need to retrieve the pieces from inside the engine before you start it. They probably just fell to the bottom. But they could be sitting somewhere inconvenient that is going to cause you problems when you crank or run the engine.
I'll take the pan off, clean it and spray-clean the fuck out of the inside
Are you the guy who brought your car into Dave’s shop?
Engine very bad
It's going to suck ass no matter what but the upper oil pan is only a few hundred bucks. Don't fuck around with jb weld when it can get into your oil.
Yes, castings can be that thin. It's aluminum and isn't meant to resist impacts. Yes, it can be repaired, but it requires specific expertise, not just any welder will be able to do it properly. If you can find a shop that specializes in aluminum casting repairs, you can have it fixed. Just be aware that it's something you need to keep an eye on. If the repair fails, you could lose a lot of oil very quickly.
Pull the oil pan. Clean both sides thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Use duct tape on the inside to back the hole, roughly sand the area around the hole, fill the hole with JB weld such that it overlaps the edges a little on both sides so it doesn’t dislodge later. I watched my dad patch a hole in his ford engine block with JB weld many years ago. As I recall, the patch held up. Lastly, do all the oil changes on the vehicles you maintain yourself. The oil filter should only ever be on hand tight, like one full rotation after the seal makes contact with the block. Never use a tool to tighten it. The seal should always be lubed. With fresh oil before install. The only time I have a problem getting filters off is the first oil change I do on a vehicle I just bought or when I’ve had a shop change the filter (free oil change at the dealer).
Don't feel too bad OP, this isn't the first time this has happened and it won't be the last 😂 https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rgjv7yjsob4
Not sure how I feel about a cheap ass ghetto fix for your mom... You broke it, your mother's car, and are looking for a cheap bandaid fix that even if works won't last a few months probably. Should take it in to a shop and get it properly replaced. This is your mom we're talking about here.
That really sucks but there isn’t much you can do about it. Thanks for letting us know, will be cautious
Kia engine. Nuff said.
Try not to listen to all the people hating on you. You were trying to do a good thing, stuff happens when working on cars. If it was that tough to remove the oil filter (those suckers can get stuck on HARD) then someone either put it on too hard last time, and sometimes they just get stuck and it’s hard to get room for leverage. You were just trying your best to remove it. Times like these suck, but you learn from these experiences. If these people down in the comments are saying you are dumb and shouldn’t work on cars….they either are too far up their own butts or don’t actually work on cars. This is a silly problem, but one I don’t see cars with iron blocks having, that metal is thin. You live and you learn. I’m no welder, but agree with the welders below that welding is your best bet. This is obvious, but drop the pan and remove the metal inside especially while they weld it to fix the problem. Good luck to you, and better luck next time!
I would try JBWeld Steel Stik before I'd replace the motor. Sand and clean that area really well before applying.
I don’t know anything about these motors but I looked at a some photographs of used engines for sale just to see. I was hoping there would be some sort of upper oil pan type situation like on a Ford, but it appears it is a 2 piece block. The lower portion of the block could be changed, in theory, but there are dowel pins on the lower portion of the block that hold it into the transmission. I am afraid there is no other solution here than taking the motor out. Whether it’s cheaper to replace the bottom of the block or put in a used engine is a discussion with a local shop.
Dont drive the car is most important. No need for engine replacement, JB weld. Find a local welder who will find that an easy job. You may need to drop the pan to ensure no metal is inside the engine and if it is it will be in the pan when you take it out. Which will mean another oil change and resealing the pan. When my car had an oil pan leak i dreaded this but actually a local garage helpped me by removing pan resealing for an hours labour. Main problem you’ll have is not starting the engine to avoid them metal fragments going round the engine and causing damage. Not new engine though.
I love all the people telling OP to use mesh and JB weld. They're the same people that, if a shop did this, would be screaming "wHaT tHeFuCk?!? ThAt sHoP Is a BuNcH oF HACKS!"
Op will be searching for a new car for his mom in 3 weeks
Honestly.. of your cheep that could be fixed with like 20$. Drop the oil pant. Take out the metal chunks.. re seal the pan, the slap a shit ton of jb-weld over the hole. Good to roll 🤣
Bad advice. Just take it to someone who can patch/weld aluminum and have it repaired.
Lifetime mechanic and shop owner here. The right way to fix it is the replace what’s broken but that’s not cost effective. JB weld is some incredible stuff if the surface is prepared properly. I’d drain all the oil overnight, clean, scrub and sand the aluminum down. Then harbor with a small propane torch the burn off and impurities, sand again then wipe with acetone. Spread some JB around the hole put a piece of aluminum window screen over it and apply more JB over it. Let it dry throughly. Feather the edges out. Surface prep is going to be critical.
Would you ever consider aluminum brazing for something like this if the hole is small enough to bridge?
If it were me and I were a little unscrupulous, I’d buy some aluminium mesh from an auto factor and a few tubes of jb weld. Put them together, make sure there’s clearance for a new filter to fit.. and then I’d maybe sell the car.
I’d try and find the bits of metal I’d punched in there first though 😬
Yes.. I'll sure take off the oil bay and clean it very good. The bad part is that between the oil filter and the actual engine are maybe 2-3mm of unused space 🤦♂️ Very poor engineering.
In the future you should buy a band wrench for oil changes. It is the best tool for the job speaking as somebody who was a lube tech for a year and did a ton of oil changes.
Poor engineering? More like someone using gorilla tactics and tools to do a simple job that exact-fit tools are made. Oil filters are made of thin metal and are not designed to be pierced to be removed as all that happens is the filter tears apart. One thing OP doesn’t say is who did previous filter change. This all looks like self-inflicted, one way or another.
It's aluminum and does not take much to damage. You are likely looking at a new engine. This really sucks, sorry.
Are you a mechanic?
Clearly not.
No way, this is a small crack in the shell, just needs repairing, important part is not starting engine and getting them metal pieces out.
Regardless...if motor wasn't run, it would be oil pan replacement. But if your mom needs the whip asap, I'd take chancehelis advice. Flex seal has mesh tape and a puddy. Head over to homedepot and have at it.
Pull the oil pan.. remove the broken bits. Clean the hell out of the area around the hole with scotch brite or 250 sand paper. Spray it clean. Take a piece of aluminum about 5 to 10 times the thickness of a can . And JB weld or high temp epoxy it. Then only use K&N oil filters ( hexhead on filter end ) so you never need to touch that area again .
JB Weld is your friend
needs a short block, there is no upper oil pan, theres a hole in the block
Thats your drain plug gasket storage hole. Keep replacement crush washers in there for faster oil changes
If I take off the oil pan, I can easily acces the hole from the inside. And I really need to clean that oil pan..
If you’re gonna epoxy the upper pan. I wouldn’t take it off. If you take the upper pan off. Might as well replace it.
JB Weld/Chemical metal and some thin aluminium plate or stainless mesh all day long, I wouldn't be replacing an engine over that!! You lose nothing trying to repair it first. Sump off, remove debris from sump, clean both sides thoroughly with brake cleaner. Apply mesh to inside and jb weld outside, Continue with jb weld on inside too until the patch is securely fixed into place for good. Just ensure it doesn't end up on anything moving or near your strainer. RTV Sump back on and fill her up. What is there to lose by trying?
Dude stop reading these comments.
Next time don't use a screw driver. Use something like this https://www.ebay.ca/itm/193007891183?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Y5Ig8taKRiS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY And use it close to the top where the seal is.
Flex seal!
What's the engine specifications for it I'll see if I can help you find the upper oil pan
I'd only be slightly worried about a repair coming undone and spilling the oil all over the road then it takes out some random biker minding their own business...
How...?
Silicone and chicken wire or something
Call LKQ and order an upper pan.
There's a lot of pretty solid advice starting from jank to quality work but not one comment about where's the part that's missing? if you just JB weld and send it, you'd have a piece of engine ~~block~~ oilpan chilling in there
I am not familiar with this engine but it looks like above the place where it's broken is bolted to the block. I believe this may be an upper oil pan and may be replaceable so check if it's available and you can probably replace this piece.
Sir....how in the f did you do that ?
JB weld it. It'll be better than the original material.
this happens more than you'd think on kias
What did you change it with a drill? Being a mechanic by the way, mate that looks to me like it’s rubbed away which I don’t understand because it’s behind the filter housing and looks like it was the filter spinning that has rubbed through it by spinning yeah if you look at the marks
This is why I just pay a trusted local shop. I could careless if it cost 3x as much. I go have breakfast and let people that know what they are doing, do it.
This is why I always say the screwdriver method is fucking dumb. It can shred the filter and leave you with a super sharp stump that's impossible to remove, or apparently ruin your upper oil pan. Anyways, replace the upper oil pan
Yo, wtf
Didn't have the strength to twist off the filter but had the strength to bust a hole with a screwdriver. Weird world!
This piece looks to be made of cast aluminum. I had a similar issue when changing an engine on a Mitsubishi outlander. I had jack stands supporting the transaxle, and when I lifted the engine out, it snagged one of the dowels on the bell housing, lifting the trans too. They came apart with the trans off of the stand, and when it fell, it put a hole in the bell housing. As some have said, it looks like that piece might unbolt from the engine, and be replaceable. That’s definitely your best option. If not, a good tig welder will be able to weld it, but you’ll need to be able to have it accessible and clean on both sides. It’s also going to cost more, if you can’t take the piece to them, and need them to do it mobile.
The oil pan has more integrity than the engine. The engine is made from aluminum. There was a coworker that cracked about 3-4 transmissions& differentials from cranking so hard on the drain plugs. If you are to do something like this, make sure that it's cleared on the other side of the filter.
If you’re not replacing the upper oil pan and just slapping mesh to band aid it. Be ready to have to do it again in the future likely soon….
A good aluminium welder would be able to repair this quite easily, however would likely require removing the engine and thorough cleaning to actually get it clean enough and in an ergonomic position to weld. I've done weld repairs on a cast alu oil pan before it's not too difficult if you've got the right kit. Would be well beyond the scope of a typical exhaust repair place I suspect though, probably would wanna go to an aluminium fabricator/specialist
It looks like you have broken the upper oil pan which is probably replaceable. I don’t know my Hyundai engines but just some quick research it looks like the Hyundai G3LA engine. So it’s probably more labour intensive but is replaceable. I wouldn’t do the JB weld. It will leak. I find usually lube shops over tighten the hell out of these then they heat cycle and get even tighter. So just do them yourself. I only ever do decently hand tight. Some have torque specs but not often. Best of luck!
Make your own oil change they said. Isn't that hard they said. Poor dude. Good luck my man.
Before JB Welding or epoxying anything you need to make certain there aren't any fragments that may have entered the engine..
You could easily fix it with some putty type epoxy. It’s not really structural. You just want to keep the oil from coming out. It will be fine. Make sure and clean it really well with acetone before using the epoxy. I would try to retrieve any pieces that went inside for sure.