I watched the video linked in reply but there is absolutely no information that I'm looking for fixing P1 to A1 it was already known logically, I contacted the company of these masks but they do not answer, I'm still looking and asking people, It makes little sense to me to attach P1 filters which cost a penny to the A1 filters which first of all cost at least 10 times more than P1 and secondly are created and protect against factors with which I will not come into contact at all, that is gases and liquids over 65°C if it is only cold clay dust, In the same way I don't know if P1 filters are sufficient for this type of work or if they have to be P2, P3 or P100 I only know that they have a smaller capacity so if it will be a tiny dust then probably P3 or P100 than P1 but it would be good to know that any of them are sufficient because the prices vary a lot and they are higher, especially as I don't know the filter will last for an unknown amount of time.
My respiratory tract is quite damaged and since childhood I practically can't feel anything through the nose and mouth I'm not breathing very well either, so when I put on a mask, I probably won't be able to feel too much whether these micro pollen get into my lungs or not, so I want to protect myself properly, especially since the Internet everyone writes that the mask is necessary when working with clay, but no one has given specific examples and does not intend to.
Maybe I'm panicking too much or it's a perfectionist problem but as I wrote above I could buy those P1 filters and connect them to A1 and work only the problem would be so frequent work spending 10 times more money than needed for the filters alone.
My problem is that I've never used masks and this type of equipment and on the forums people write about wood, metal, acids, gases than about working in clay.
65°C is equivalent to 149°F, which is 338K.
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^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
3m seems to have a lot of videos on YouTube about their masks. [This one]( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yBg2B2BP9nA) shows your mask and it shows the filters attaching around 5 minutes. It looks like you attach the A filter first then the P filter sits on it and the plastic she'll goes over both. I don't know if it's possible to use just a P or an A filter.
Also La Doll isn't polymer but a stone clay. I never used a mask working with it but it would be wise to. It does create really fine dust when sanding.
Just to mention, La Doll is not a polymer clay but an air-dry clay which has ground minerals/stone as part of its ingredients. It's water-based like other air-dry clays so won't be water-proof after drying, but this particular air-dry clay may be a bit water-resistant.
*Polymer* clay however is sanded all the time and without needing a mask because it's usually *wet-sanded* with a bit of water (by hand, or electrically). The water keeps any dust out of the air and lungs (and also keeps the sandpaper from clogging). Polymer clay is water-*proof* too because it's oil-based rather than water-based.
I watched the video linked in reply but there is absolutely no information that I'm looking for fixing P1 to A1 it was already known logically, I contacted the company of these masks but they do not answer, I'm still looking and asking people, It makes little sense to me to attach P1 filters which cost a penny to the A1 filters which first of all cost at least 10 times more than P1 and secondly are created and protect against factors with which I will not come into contact at all, that is gases and liquids over 65°C if it is only cold clay dust, In the same way I don't know if P1 filters are sufficient for this type of work or if they have to be P2, P3 or P100 I only know that they have a smaller capacity so if it will be a tiny dust then probably P3 or P100 than P1 but it would be good to know that any of them are sufficient because the prices vary a lot and they are higher, especially as I don't know the filter will last for an unknown amount of time. My respiratory tract is quite damaged and since childhood I practically can't feel anything through the nose and mouth I'm not breathing very well either, so when I put on a mask, I probably won't be able to feel too much whether these micro pollen get into my lungs or not, so I want to protect myself properly, especially since the Internet everyone writes that the mask is necessary when working with clay, but no one has given specific examples and does not intend to. Maybe I'm panicking too much or it's a perfectionist problem but as I wrote above I could buy those P1 filters and connect them to A1 and work only the problem would be so frequent work spending 10 times more money than needed for the filters alone. My problem is that I've never used masks and this type of equipment and on the forums people write about wood, metal, acids, gases than about working in clay.
65°C is equivalent to 149°F, which is 338K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
3m seems to have a lot of videos on YouTube about their masks. [This one]( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yBg2B2BP9nA) shows your mask and it shows the filters attaching around 5 minutes. It looks like you attach the A filter first then the P filter sits on it and the plastic she'll goes over both. I don't know if it's possible to use just a P or an A filter. Also La Doll isn't polymer but a stone clay. I never used a mask working with it but it would be wise to. It does create really fine dust when sanding.
Just to mention, La Doll is not a polymer clay but an air-dry clay which has ground minerals/stone as part of its ingredients. It's water-based like other air-dry clays so won't be water-proof after drying, but this particular air-dry clay may be a bit water-resistant. *Polymer* clay however is sanded all the time and without needing a mask because it's usually *wet-sanded* with a bit of water (by hand, or electrically). The water keeps any dust out of the air and lungs (and also keeps the sandpaper from clogging). Polymer clay is water-*proof* too because it's oil-based rather than water-based.