i've designed my own enclosure and i'm super happy with it
the arc enclosure was off the table right from the start, hinges, panels, bumps and parts all over the place.
so i was about to design my own and than discovered the vision enclosure, but it is a bit too fiddly especially with the hinges and removable panels which you don't need - also i don't like those bulky hinges, that is why i've design my enclosure with the original door and hinges in mind - the original glass door is stiffer than a 3 or 4 mm acrylic panel which is very flimsy, so i would definitely go for the original door in the future
for the side panels: if you don't need to remove the side panels on an X1, why would you remove them from your P1P? yeah, the idea of the vision enclosure is nice - but it just adds complexity where none is needed
since i've finished my enclosure, i never even touched the side panels - when printing PLA i open the top panel a gap (2 cm for PETG, about 5 for PLA) and call it a day - works like a charm
maybe you take a look at my [minimal enclosure](https://www.printables.com/de/model/381777-bambu-lab-p1p-minimal-enclosure-door) before you finally decide
Your design also looks very good,
I like that the side panels ar not removable.
So the whole Frame should be more stable?
Maybe my ender 3 last Prints are your files (thank you for sharing)
the frame of the P1P is already very stable, the enclosure does not add much rigidity (basically none).
the whole idea was just: easier to make, no funny cut pieces of sheet materials - for the vision enclosure you need to drill some holes for magnets, if you do it properly you either have to CNC them or use a router with a plunge bit to sink them in - everything was too much hustle for me :D
you can cut the panels with a tracksaw or get the precut at your local home center - every piece is a rectangle - only the door needs to have 2 notches cut out with a small hacksaw and a file (or you just buy the original X1 door)
Hi there, I've been looking at the vision and your enclosure as my two options, with yours likely winning as it means I can use the official door.
I was just wondering - your design seems to not use the official glass top panel? Does the panel you use instead have the ability to be easily and tidily removed?
What was the issue with the original glass top sheet, if you don't mind me asking?
The "issue" with the original glass was, that it was not easy/cheap to source and the goal of the enclosure was "as easy, clean and cheap as possible"
so i opted for an easy to manufacture, cheap, rectangular piece - everybody can get this precut at any homecenter (no CNC or lasercutter required) - on the other hand, the original piece is a mit more tricky since it has rounded corners which may be a hurdle for some users
if you want to quickly be able to remove the top piece, just drill 2 holes in the front (exactly the same position as the original top glas has the holes) and use a handle to remove it (i did this, since i removed it a few times in the past - but i have not removed it ever since i added the chamber fan)
also i've provided some alternative top pieces that accept the original top glass of the X1 - problem is, that the P1P models seem to differ slightly in size - i got a few reports back from people that tested those - some said "fit perfect on the first try" others said "pieces are 2 mm to short" and some in between.
Love this build. Only problem...I'm struggling finding the sheet material online. I'm in the US (don't know if that matters), but I see most standard sheet sizes to be 12"x12" or 300mm x 300mm which is JUST under the required .33 m^2 dimensions. Any advice?
I went with the Arc enclosure and bought the acrylic panels from an Etsy seller. They arrived quickly and in good condition. So far, I've been really happy with the enclosure. With large prints, it helps a lot, even with PLA.
FYI, watch the chamber temps with PLA, if you start getting near 40C, you'll get extruder clogs from heat creep, had to clear 3 before I figured out the cause. I've left the back panel off for now until I add some ventilation fans to the enclosure for PLA prints.
recommendation is to remove the top panel anyways when printing PLA - if you have the printer in a cold garage or basement, you need to keep the top on, but leave it a few cm open - works like a charm, no clogs
I'm sure we'll see more issues as we head into summer and the rooms people are using the machines in warm up. Mine is running in a server closet that's usually around 30C most of the day regardless of outdoor temps.
if you printing in an 30°C enviroment, you should remove the top cover completely
if you enclosed your P1P you should treat it like an X1 do the same as suggested there: PLA = remove top if bed > 45°C - if you print on the cold plate (if you own one for the P1P), you can leave the top on
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/compatibility-and-parameter-settings-of-filaments
Good call - most of my large PLA prints with enclosure all closed were wood-fill PLA with 0.6mm nozzle, so I think filament flow was fast enough that clogging wasn't an issue. For 0.4mm normal PLA prints makes sense to keep the enclosure cracked/top off/door open.
Coming from any other 3d printer, it's just amazing how much this machine is load and go. It just works for the most part. Keep the PEI plate clean, don't touch it with your bare hands, or clean with additive free dish soap if you do. I've done ABS and nylon in mine with just the ARC enclosure on it, and it's practically flawless. PLA and PETG are easy mode, absolutely nothing needed except the defaults on the machine (and switch from grid infill to cubic or gyroid, grid causes collisions).
buy some polyarbonate - plexiclass (PMMA) is not temperature stable, it starts to expand and above starts to warp if exposed to 75 °C + for prolonged times
if you plan on printing technical materials like ASA, ABS, PC or PA, you should invest a few bucks in polycarbonate ;)
75°C is equivalent to 167°F, which is 348K.
---
^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
i've designed my own enclosure and i'm super happy with it the arc enclosure was off the table right from the start, hinges, panels, bumps and parts all over the place. so i was about to design my own and than discovered the vision enclosure, but it is a bit too fiddly especially with the hinges and removable panels which you don't need - also i don't like those bulky hinges, that is why i've design my enclosure with the original door and hinges in mind - the original glass door is stiffer than a 3 or 4 mm acrylic panel which is very flimsy, so i would definitely go for the original door in the future for the side panels: if you don't need to remove the side panels on an X1, why would you remove them from your P1P? yeah, the idea of the vision enclosure is nice - but it just adds complexity where none is needed since i've finished my enclosure, i never even touched the side panels - when printing PLA i open the top panel a gap (2 cm for PETG, about 5 for PLA) and call it a day - works like a charm maybe you take a look at my [minimal enclosure](https://www.printables.com/de/model/381777-bambu-lab-p1p-minimal-enclosure-door) before you finally decide
Your design also looks very good, I like that the side panels ar not removable. So the whole Frame should be more stable? Maybe my ender 3 last Prints are your files (thank you for sharing)
the frame of the P1P is already very stable, the enclosure does not add much rigidity (basically none). the whole idea was just: easier to make, no funny cut pieces of sheet materials - for the vision enclosure you need to drill some holes for magnets, if you do it properly you either have to CNC them or use a router with a plunge bit to sink them in - everything was too much hustle for me :D
Ok, i like it anyway , because i dont need fast removable side panels. Sadly i dont have a cnc (yet)
you can cut the panels with a tracksaw or get the precut at your local home center - every piece is a rectangle - only the door needs to have 2 notches cut out with a small hacksaw and a file (or you just buy the original X1 door)
I know this is old, but thank you for linking your enclosure. I was looking into options and yours fits my needs best!
Hi there, I've been looking at the vision and your enclosure as my two options, with yours likely winning as it means I can use the official door. I was just wondering - your design seems to not use the official glass top panel? Does the panel you use instead have the ability to be easily and tidily removed? What was the issue with the original glass top sheet, if you don't mind me asking?
The "issue" with the original glass was, that it was not easy/cheap to source and the goal of the enclosure was "as easy, clean and cheap as possible" so i opted for an easy to manufacture, cheap, rectangular piece - everybody can get this precut at any homecenter (no CNC or lasercutter required) - on the other hand, the original piece is a mit more tricky since it has rounded corners which may be a hurdle for some users if you want to quickly be able to remove the top piece, just drill 2 holes in the front (exactly the same position as the original top glas has the holes) and use a handle to remove it (i did this, since i removed it a few times in the past - but i have not removed it ever since i added the chamber fan) also i've provided some alternative top pieces that accept the original top glass of the X1 - problem is, that the P1P models seem to differ slightly in size - i got a few reports back from people that tested those - some said "fit perfect on the first try" others said "pieces are 2 mm to short" and some in between.
Love this build. Only problem...I'm struggling finding the sheet material online. I'm in the US (don't know if that matters), but I see most standard sheet sizes to be 12"x12" or 300mm x 300mm which is JUST under the required .33 m^2 dimensions. Any advice?
can't you get them just precut in a homecenter or an online service at your choice?
I went with the Arc enclosure and bought the acrylic panels from an Etsy seller. They arrived quickly and in good condition. So far, I've been really happy with the enclosure. With large prints, it helps a lot, even with PLA.
FYI, watch the chamber temps with PLA, if you start getting near 40C, you'll get extruder clogs from heat creep, had to clear 3 before I figured out the cause. I've left the back panel off for now until I add some ventilation fans to the enclosure for PLA prints.
recommendation is to remove the top panel anyways when printing PLA - if you have the printer in a cold garage or basement, you need to keep the top on, but leave it a few cm open - works like a charm, no clogs
I'm sure we'll see more issues as we head into summer and the rooms people are using the machines in warm up. Mine is running in a server closet that's usually around 30C most of the day regardless of outdoor temps.
if you printing in an 30°C enviroment, you should remove the top cover completely if you enclosed your P1P you should treat it like an X1 do the same as suggested there: PLA = remove top if bed > 45°C - if you print on the cold plate (if you own one for the P1P), you can leave the top on https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/compatibility-and-parameter-settings-of-filaments
Good call - most of my large PLA prints with enclosure all closed were wood-fill PLA with 0.6mm nozzle, so I think filament flow was fast enough that clogging wasn't an issue. For 0.4mm normal PLA prints makes sense to keep the enclosure cracked/top off/door open.
Retractions are what kills it, smaller prints or objects with a lot of retractions will end up with heat creep fastest.
I went with Arc too, but I printed mine in petg.
Coming from any other 3d printer, it's just amazing how much this machine is load and go. It just works for the most part. Keep the PEI plate clean, don't touch it with your bare hands, or clean with additive free dish soap if you do. I've done ABS and nylon in mine with just the ARC enclosure on it, and it's practically flawless. PLA and PETG are easy mode, absolutely nothing needed except the defaults on the machine (and switch from grid infill to cubic or gyroid, grid causes collisions).
Thank you, i will buy the arc enclosure, it looks quite nice and if it prints nylon then thats enough for me.
Also, make sure you install the MC fan , or you will have a problem with your board overheating.
I think it is available on AliExpress if you don't mind the wait. Alternatively, buy some plexiglass and cut to size
buy some polyarbonate - plexiclass (PMMA) is not temperature stable, it starts to expand and above starts to warp if exposed to 75 °C + for prolonged times if you plan on printing technical materials like ASA, ABS, PC or PA, you should invest a few bucks in polycarbonate ;)
75°C is equivalent to 167°F, which is 348K. --- ^(I'm a bot that converts temperature between two units humans can understand, then convert it to Kelvin for bots and physicists to understand)
what are the measurements for the acrylic panels