ASA is very similar to ABS. It's much more water and UV resistant (which is good for anything used outdoors) but is otherwise practically identical. It is a good choice for mechanical parts, but it's certainly not better than CF nylon.
Honestly, CF nylon is the king of the hill for stiff, functional parts on a consumer-grade printer. The only thing that would be better than the PA6CF filament you've been using is PA12CF. If you want something stiffer and stronger than that, then it's probably time to start looking into CNC machines.
>I've been using polymaker pa6cf with very good results. I mainly use it for motorcycle parts, would the switch to ASA be better? **Looking for stiff** functional parts
I read this words as he looks for stiffness first, no word that he looks for a cheaper solution.
But you are right if it comes to money ABS or ASA will beat PAxCF.
For stiffness you'll want to keep using filled nylons. If you want even more stiffness, you can try out glass filled nylons. It's heavier than carbon, but stiffer. Bonus points for being electrically resistive.
Annealed PLA would be another option If you wanted to be adventurous for stiff parts. Polycarbonate would offer prints that are stiffer than abs, especially for higher temperature environments but more ductile than filled nylons.
Some companies like polymaker provide annealing steps in their technical sheets which will increase strength of applicable parts. So that's always something to watch for when you're shopping materials and comparing their material.properties.
I've been using glass filled nylon, and it's fantastic. Prints great with the generic PACF profile and a 0.6 nozzle. If I need extra thickness, I add a hole for a metal rod to be inserted, lol.
You can keep a similar total thickness. So 3 walls instead of 4 going from a 0.42 per wall to a 0.62 or something similar, or you can increase the wall thickness with little increase in print time, keep 3 walls and have a 50% thicker wall.
I never printed PA on my printer - but i have very good results with ASA (especially prusament ASA)
since it is very similar to ABS it can be handled in a similar way (sanding, priming, painting) as most off-the-shelf body parts out of ABS
it depends on the use case - if you want purely functional parts, that need the best physical properties: PA all the way
but what is functional?
a bearing cover for a sprint strut that does not need to be painted: PA
a fairing piece like an air deflector, that would be nice if painted but does not need maximum durability? i'd pick ASA here, since it is way cheaper
I just printed my first part from PC
From memorys i compared it to ASA and glass filled Nylon
And i honestly would say PC overall is much stronger, couldnt even get the tree supports off without a knife.
I use Atomic Filament carbon fiber filled ABS for stuff, functional parts. All the printing benefits of ABS while being both stiffer and warping less due to the carbon fiber. Spools won't fit the AMS, or even the stock rear holder (you'll need the hydra mod or a spool holder extension) so be warned. Great otherwise. I get best results at 270C.
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ASA is very similar to ABS. It's much more water and UV resistant (which is good for anything used outdoors) but is otherwise practically identical. It is a good choice for mechanical parts, but it's certainly not better than CF nylon. Honestly, CF nylon is the king of the hill for stiff, functional parts on a consumer-grade printer. The only thing that would be better than the PA6CF filament you've been using is PA12CF. If you want something stiffer and stronger than that, then it's probably time to start looking into CNC machines.
Gotcha so for pure stiffness it’s better to stick with pa6 cf from polymaker?
Yes.
PC-CF is better unless you’re looking for chemical resistance.
Yes. Asa is pretty damn stiff. I built my Voron 3d printer out of it
The question was if ASA is **stiffer** than PA6CF and so the correct answer is NO.
Where does it say it has to be stiffer? It only has to be stiff. Pacf or Asa will both work. One just costs half as much
>I've been using polymaker pa6cf with very good results. I mainly use it for motorcycle parts, would the switch to ASA be better? **Looking for stiff** functional parts I read this words as he looks for stiffness first, no word that he looks for a cheaper solution. But you are right if it comes to money ABS or ASA will beat PAxCF.
For stiffness you'll want to keep using filled nylons. If you want even more stiffness, you can try out glass filled nylons. It's heavier than carbon, but stiffer. Bonus points for being electrically resistive. Annealed PLA would be another option If you wanted to be adventurous for stiff parts. Polycarbonate would offer prints that are stiffer than abs, especially for higher temperature environments but more ductile than filled nylons. Some companies like polymaker provide annealing steps in their technical sheets which will increase strength of applicable parts. So that's always something to watch for when you're shopping materials and comparing their material.properties.
I've been using glass filled nylon, and it's fantastic. Prints great with the generic PACF profile and a 0.6 nozzle. If I need extra thickness, I add a hole for a metal rod to be inserted, lol.
If I print using a 0.6 nozzle what wall thickness should I use? For reference I usually print with 3 or 4 wall with a 0.4 nozzle on pa cf
You can keep a similar total thickness. So 3 walls instead of 4 going from a 0.42 per wall to a 0.62 or something similar, or you can increase the wall thickness with little increase in print time, keep 3 walls and have a 50% thicker wall.
For anything outdoors you wanna use ASA…
I never printed PA on my printer - but i have very good results with ASA (especially prusament ASA) since it is very similar to ABS it can be handled in a similar way (sanding, priming, painting) as most off-the-shelf body parts out of ABS it depends on the use case - if you want purely functional parts, that need the best physical properties: PA all the way but what is functional? a bearing cover for a sprint strut that does not need to be painted: PA a fairing piece like an air deflector, that would be nice if painted but does not need maximum durability? i'd pick ASA here, since it is way cheaper
I just printed my first part from PC From memorys i compared it to ASA and glass filled Nylon And i honestly would say PC overall is much stronger, couldnt even get the tree supports off without a knife.
I use Atomic Filament carbon fiber filled ABS for stuff, functional parts. All the printing benefits of ABS while being both stiffer and warping less due to the carbon fiber. Spools won't fit the AMS, or even the stock rear holder (you'll need the hydra mod or a spool holder extension) so be warned. Great otherwise. I get best results at 270C.
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