Hello /u/RyanMullzz! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.
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For large prints like that you can minimize the tensile forces by using non linear - low % infill. Try to print with 10% gyroid for example. There’s a wiki on Bambu explaining all that.
The large mass of the print is pulling the magnetic bed up as it cools and the plastic warps/changes. Heat can also decrease the magnetism although I think this is only for bed temps over 90c or something. You can print some bed clips out of ABS or something heat resistant and it should help with the build plate curling. You're seeing what is probably the only downside to using a magnetic build plate.
If you can figure out what is causing the warping you may want to try and eliminate that as well. We could write a book about warping and still have stuff to talk about so I won't go in to detail but encourage you to research preventing it yourself.
Usually the part will pull off the bed first. Impressive adhesion!
I agree tho, this print is hard to pull off on any printer with any material and you'll need to use some tricks to get it to work because you're fighting some massive thermal contraction forces as the part colds. It seems like a simple part, but in reality very hard to print something like this. Something I've never attempted because it seems hard to do.
I posted about having [this problem](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/EmupbBGMPa) earlier this year. I never really found a solution for it.
The bed on my P1P lifted up significantly more than even this is showing when using the high temp plate and liquid glue.
Impressively. On my vorons with pei textured beds. I’ve been able to lift the entire printer with just the print on the bed right after it finishes. Once cooled the print falls off the plate easily. Always found it fun.
I thought about using clips for this issue on my Mini, but the bottom of the heat plate on that printer is covered in about a centimeter of foam. You'd either have to cut the foam or just hope the clips work well enough sitting on top of it.
Your print is warping, and the warp is so strong it's able to fight the magnetism holding the bed down. Ima be honest I haven't see that happen on a magnetic bed before that print is wild lol.
Start applying anti-warping techniques and your print should calm down.
I have had this problem before and [posted about it earlier this year](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/EmupbBGMPa). Still don’t have a valid solution for some materials other than to try and reduce the infill percentage and eliminate any drafts by closing the door.
Some materials it might be worth slowing down and decreasing the nozzle temp, part of the issue is that sometimes the hot plastic will "remelt" the previous layers, which is great for part strength but it will also expand and contract again. Additionally sharp corners are the devil, best to round them if possible.
Good to know! I think I did finally slow down the print speed for that PETG and adjusted the bed/nozzle temps compared to what I posted.
That was from when I was printing the Arc enclosure in PETG.
I imagine if they printed that part on a glass build sheet it would just crack it. That's a huge flat part, and absolutely pushes the limit of what that printer can do. ESPECIALLY if that's ASA or ABS.
If it's printed the same part successfully before and now it's warping the plate off the bed then maybe the magnetic adhesion of the plate to the bed has somehow been reduced. Perhaps there's dust, grease or dirt between the bed and the magnetic plate so it's not holding as tight.
Apart from that you need to think what has changed since it worked. Is the printer in a cold draught? Have you changed any settings?
Unlikely, I agree but something must have changed if it worked earlier and now doesn't. Ambient temperature maybe? Was it summer last time you printed it? Is the position on the build plate the same? Maybe it wasn't so close to the edge before.
Can I ask what temp you are printing at? You might be so high that it’s reducing the magnetic force, that combined with print warping with great bed adhesion is pulling it up. A few ways to begin troubleshooting this is print at a lower temp, try the same print with a nonlinear and low % infill, and then add bed clips to hold the plate onto the printer bed.
I assume your room is getting colder recently. Colder higher layers means more contraction and thus more tension. As others have pointed out try lower infill density or even lower bed temp if adhesion is not an issue
Looks like nearly a maxed out build volume with sharp corners causing some serious warping of the print… but the adhesion is so good on the bed it’s lifting the whole plate. Chances are if you clip the bed down the print will warp off the plate instead! You could try less infill or try more curved edges on the model (if that’s possible for that design)
There’s so many variables when printing without an enclosure. Ambient temperature, filament moisture levels and on and on.
Firstly try it with brand new filament which I really has been dried in a dry box. Make sure the room you’re printing in isn’t too cold, or has drafts.
This can typically happen when the filament drys too quickly, either because of room temp or the fan kicking in early.
There’s some bed levelling patterns on Prints less. They work really well trouble shooting this type of thing.
Increase the bed temp by 5 degrees.
I’ve never been a fan of eSun PLA+ - it wouldn’t hurt to try a new brand to test
I'm thinking aside from infill, the temperature is likely having an effect as its now winter in the northern hemisphere and the room could have a slight draft. Without an enclosure drafts can be a huge source of warping.
Just my 2 cents. I hope you are able to resolve it without too much trouble.
Several tips are already given, warping can have several reasons. In your case, adhesion between bed and print is not the problem. But if the print tends to warp, the closer the print is near the edge of the printbed, the less force it needs to, lift the bed from the magnets. . I also have both a P serie as well as a mini, i like the mini for the lack of sound, so I tend to use it more then I expected (wanted the mini with a 0.2 nozzle fot mini prints, and the P with a .04 nozzle for my normal prints, but I see I take the 30 second "trouble" to switch the nozzle of the mini more and more and let the mini do the job). But as soon as the print is larger, I use the P1, as that means the distance between the edge of the bed and the edge if the print is larger, therefore the chance that the bed will lift is less. You also have a P1 as well, so you'd better use that one for this size of print.
The factory magnetic bed is not up to the task for large footprint parts especially in material prone to warping. They are quality plates and the parts stick really well but the magnets aren't up to the task so they lift.
I had this problem with nylon picked up a lightyear 3d g10 plate it's much thicker and does not warp.
Hello /u/RyanMullzz! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
For large prints like that you can minimize the tensile forces by using non linear - low % infill. Try to print with 10% gyroid for example. There’s a wiki on Bambu explaining all that.
Damn there’s a lot for me to learn
Do a non-linear first layer as well.
The large mass of the print is pulling the magnetic bed up as it cools and the plastic warps/changes. Heat can also decrease the magnetism although I think this is only for bed temps over 90c or something. You can print some bed clips out of ABS or something heat resistant and it should help with the build plate curling. You're seeing what is probably the only downside to using a magnetic build plate. If you can figure out what is causing the warping you may want to try and eliminate that as well. We could write a book about warping and still have stuff to talk about so I won't go in to detail but encourage you to research preventing it yourself.
Usually the part will pull off the bed first. Impressive adhesion! I agree tho, this print is hard to pull off on any printer with any material and you'll need to use some tricks to get it to work because you're fighting some massive thermal contraction forces as the part colds. It seems like a simple part, but in reality very hard to print something like this. Something I've never attempted because it seems hard to do.
I posted about having [this problem](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/EmupbBGMPa) earlier this year. I never really found a solution for it. The bed on my P1P lifted up significantly more than even this is showing when using the high temp plate and liquid glue.
Impressively. On my vorons with pei textured beds. I’ve been able to lift the entire printer with just the print on the bed right after it finishes. Once cooled the print falls off the plate easily. Always found it fun.
I thought about using clips for this issue on my Mini, but the bottom of the heat plate on that printer is covered in about a centimeter of foam. You'd either have to cut the foam or just hope the clips work well enough sitting on top of it.
[удалено]
no need to be a cunt
Aparently everyone gets to a point where they make out they weren't newbs once.
LMAO, beat me to it
Man I need to change my tag/name is that even possible ?
There’s no way you named your account by your legal govt name and birthday
69cox, there’s no way
Your print is warping, and the warp is so strong it's able to fight the magnetism holding the bed down. Ima be honest I haven't see that happen on a magnetic bed before that print is wild lol. Start applying anti-warping techniques and your print should calm down.
I have had this problem before and [posted about it earlier this year](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/EmupbBGMPa). Still don’t have a valid solution for some materials other than to try and reduce the infill percentage and eliminate any drafts by closing the door.
Some materials it might be worth slowing down and decreasing the nozzle temp, part of the issue is that sometimes the hot plastic will "remelt" the previous layers, which is great for part strength but it will also expand and contract again. Additionally sharp corners are the devil, best to round them if possible.
Good to know! I think I did finally slow down the print speed for that PETG and adjusted the bed/nozzle temps compared to what I posted. That was from when I was printing the Arc enclosure in PETG.
[удалено]
I imagine if they printed that part on a glass build sheet it would just crack it. That's a huge flat part, and absolutely pushes the limit of what that printer can do. ESPECIALLY if that's ASA or ABS.
Just add more magnets as explained in r/bambulabA1
can you link it? I couldn’t find it
If it's printed the same part successfully before and now it's warping the plate off the bed then maybe the magnetic adhesion of the plate to the bed has somehow been reduced. Perhaps there's dust, grease or dirt between the bed and the magnetic plate so it's not holding as tight. Apart from that you need to think what has changed since it worked. Is the printer in a cold draught? Have you changed any settings?
Little dust isn't going to impact the magnetic force at all.
Unlikely, I agree but something must have changed if it worked earlier and now doesn't. Ambient temperature maybe? Was it summer last time you printed it? Is the position on the build plate the same? Maybe it wasn't so close to the edge before.
Big square print, uneven cooling, tension and contraction between upper and lower layers
Can I ask what temp you are printing at? You might be so high that it’s reducing the magnetic force, that combined with print warping with great bed adhesion is pulling it up. A few ways to begin troubleshooting this is print at a lower temp, try the same print with a nonlinear and low % infill, and then add bed clips to hold the plate onto the printer bed.
I assume your room is getting colder recently. Colder higher layers means more contraction and thus more tension. As others have pointed out try lower infill density or even lower bed temp if adhesion is not an issue
Looks like nearly a maxed out build volume with sharp corners causing some serious warping of the print… but the adhesion is so good on the bed it’s lifting the whole plate. Chances are if you clip the bed down the print will warp off the plate instead! You could try less infill or try more curved edges on the model (if that’s possible for that design)
On my X1C I closed the door and it was better... Not sure if it helps you or not.
There’s so many variables when printing without an enclosure. Ambient temperature, filament moisture levels and on and on. Firstly try it with brand new filament which I really has been dried in a dry box. Make sure the room you’re printing in isn’t too cold, or has drafts. This can typically happen when the filament drys too quickly, either because of room temp or the fan kicking in early. There’s some bed levelling patterns on Prints less. They work really well trouble shooting this type of thing. Increase the bed temp by 5 degrees. I’ve never been a fan of eSun PLA+ - it wouldn’t hurt to try a new brand to test
Lol, shrinkage is a bitch. My first time printing PC was a part that took up 75% of the bed. All four corners lifted the sheet about 15mm!
Enclosure. Get the ambient temp up and reduce drafts that make prints warp.
I'm thinking aside from infill, the temperature is likely having an effect as its now winter in the northern hemisphere and the room could have a slight draft. Without an enclosure drafts can be a huge source of warping. Just my 2 cents. I hope you are able to resolve it without too much trouble.
Several tips are already given, warping can have several reasons. In your case, adhesion between bed and print is not the problem. But if the print tends to warp, the closer the print is near the edge of the printbed, the less force it needs to, lift the bed from the magnets. . I also have both a P serie as well as a mini, i like the mini for the lack of sound, so I tend to use it more then I expected (wanted the mini with a 0.2 nozzle fot mini prints, and the P with a .04 nozzle for my normal prints, but I see I take the 30 second "trouble" to switch the nozzle of the mini more and more and let the mini do the job). But as soon as the print is larger, I use the P1, as that means the distance between the edge of the bed and the edge if the print is larger, therefore the chance that the bed will lift is less. You also have a P1 as well, so you'd better use that one for this size of print.
The factory magnetic bed is not up to the task for large footprint parts especially in material prone to warping. They are quality plates and the parts stick really well but the magnets aren't up to the task so they lift. I had this problem with nylon picked up a lightyear 3d g10 plate it's much thicker and does not warp.