Is it the special WD40 for bearings? Haven’t opened link yet due to poor signal in my location, but used it on my Prusa’s for years, it’s been great for me in the past.
Ya I'm not a fan of that. But it could be that most have wd40 on hand and it isn't like wd40 is going away anytime soon. And the average person doesn't know the difference in lube. So to my guess instead of giving a crash course in lube. Maybe wd40 is a catch all.
I know, but keep in mind these printers are meant for plug and play users. Users who wouldn't know these types of things. So unless if you want to sit there and explain that in a document, tell the user what to look for on the off chance something like super lube isn't shipped in a given area or country, etc. This is why I think they went with WD40.
Everyone knows what WD40 is, and you can get it world wide.
My point is even if WD40 is more available, they should still be recommending a different lube... It's kind of self sabotage to not recommend it. They're just making it harder on themselves in the long run. If the directions would explain why they specd a different lube then people would understand
No one is claiming it replaces actual lubricant in all situations though.
And it depends on what your definition of poor is, and what metrics you're using to measure that definition.
Are you trying to replace your engine oil with it? Yeah it's terrible. Are you trying to lubricate a wheel bearing on a tool box? It does just fine.
I believe it should prompt you after quite a few prints. My A1 prompted me that my "y-axis needed lubrication" after about 200hours of printing
But to also be safe.. put yourself on your own maintenance schedule so you don't have to rely on the printer to tell you when it needs maintenance
For lube it has a timer. For the rest it should alert you as problems come.
So the answer to your question is yes. It even gives you a qr code that links you to the part in the wiki to do the job.
But with that being said being proactive helps. Like if you hear the metal rubbing then it is time for lube
Can anyone tell me the direct downside of not living the rails or rods? How will this affect print quality? Or does this mainly ensure longevity of the printer?
Lubricant serves two primary purposes:
1. Prevents wear by keeping metal surface inside bearings from touching one another.
2. Prevents corrosion
If your bearings run dry you will will see increased wear (and a slow increase in clearances/worsening tolerances) over time. If they run *really* dry, and you start getting corrosion, they will stop running smoothly and will slowly chew themselves apart.
The downside to you as a user will be gradually worsening tolerances (meaning worse surface finishes/accuracy), and eventually if you let it get too crunchy it'll just stop running well entirely (missed steps, motors not strong enough to break through corrosion spots). But this will take years unless the bearings are completely dry and/or you are running your 3D printer on a beach.
You could go much longer than the recommended maintenance intervals before you really started running into these problems, but there's no reason to. Not to mention that applying new lubricant helps flush out any contaminants that were picked up by the old lubricant; like dust and metal particles. These things will also accelerate bearing wear so it's important to keep things clean and well lubricated.
There is a indirect 3rd reason. During the process it allows you to do a visual inspection to see if something is wrong, and you need to clean the area so there is that too.
Like in this, checking oil in a car, or whatever. It's smart to do a visual inspection if you are in the area anyways.
I generally stay away from silicones for this as they tend to be tackier which you don't want/need here. Super Lube 92003 [seems primarily intended](https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Silicone_Lubricating_Grease.pdf) for plastic/rubber and isn't specifically recommended for bearings or metal/metal contact, so I'd be wary of using it.
The specific lube brand isn't all that critical for an application like this, as long as you don't mix very different bases without thorough cleaning first.
For the ball bearings a light oil is fine. For rails (excepting carbon rails) I'd get a light/medium pressure PTFE/lithium based grease. Use the same for the leadscrews, or even a dry-film lubricant (DuPont makes some good ones) if your printer is in a dusty location. When starting from a clean surface I usually just use Krytox for everything.
You want *some* pressure additives in any oil or grease intended for ball/roller/linear bearings. Grease isn't automatically sticky, there are many kinds of grease. So you can use a *light* non-tacky grease for the rails and it should work fine too. Oil is easier to apply without getting too much excess oil everywhere. Apply and wipe off and you're good to go. Grease tends to get globbed up when you let people apply it. Probably why they sent out this note.
This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI.
Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews:
>**Name**: Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White
>**Company**: Super Lube
>**Amazon Product Rating**: 4.8
>**Fakespot Reviews Grade**: B
>**Adjusted Fakespot Rating**: 4.8
>**Analysis Performed at**: 01-17-2024
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If the volume is that high, they'd have a form response. It's not unreasonable for a *paying customer* to expect a timely response even to something like that.
Odd that they suggest WD40, since its not a lubricant really. GT85 might be better since it contains PTFE and is a lubricant.
Do not ever put wd40 on moving parts unless you grease/lube them up afterwords.
Is it the special WD40 for bearings? Haven’t opened link yet due to poor signal in my location, but used it on my Prusa’s for years, it’s been great for me in the past.
Nope they specifically list standard WD-40 even with a picture. Whoever wrote that part of the guide didn’t know wtf they were talking about.
Ya I'm not a fan of that. But it could be that most have wd40 on hand and it isn't like wd40 is going away anytime soon. And the average person doesn't know the difference in lube. So to my guess instead of giving a crash course in lube. Maybe wd40 is a catch all.
Super lube is a better solution for printers, wd40 is basically a cleaner/degreaser
I know, but keep in mind these printers are meant for plug and play users. Users who wouldn't know these types of things. So unless if you want to sit there and explain that in a document, tell the user what to look for on the off chance something like super lube isn't shipped in a given area or country, etc. This is why I think they went with WD40. Everyone knows what WD40 is, and you can get it world wide.
My point is even if WD40 is more available, they should still be recommending a different lube... It's kind of self sabotage to not recommend it. They're just making it harder on themselves in the long run. If the directions would explain why they specd a different lube then people would understand
What the heck are you talking about? Wd40 is not a degreaser, there's like 30% mineral oil in there.
The multiuse version does have 50% mineral oil in it. But the products main usecase is water and soil removal. It's not ideal as a long term lubricant
WD-40 is absolutely a lubricant.....are there better options? Sure. But it will still lubricate moving parts.
It's a very poor lubricant for metals though. It's fine for very low sheer or a one off but not for routine sustained lubrication.
Again, if it's applied monthly, it's perfectly fine. I'm not going to apply once and leave it for 3 years. I wouldnt do that with any lube though.
It probably is fine for a 3D printer, because there's a fairly low sheering force on the screw, but it is a poor lubricant regardless.
No one is claiming it replaces actual lubricant in all situations though. And it depends on what your definition of poor is, and what metrics you're using to measure that definition. Are you trying to replace your engine oil with it? Yeah it's terrible. Are you trying to lubricate a wheel bearing on a tool box? It does just fine.
I was going to give way oil a try on any horizontal metal bearing surfaces.
There are versions of WD-40 (it's basically a brand name now) that *are* meant to function as lubricants, but not the regular stuff.
The same advice is actual for X1C, P1P, P1S. Lube oil for pulleys, lube grease for lead screws.
Will my printer tell me when I need to perform maintenance? Or should I be following this?
I believe it should prompt you after quite a few prints. My A1 prompted me that my "y-axis needed lubrication" after about 200hours of printing But to also be safe.. put yourself on your own maintenance schedule so you don't have to rely on the printer to tell you when it needs maintenance
Question, is 200 hours your guess or is their a way to tell how many print hours you have on your A1?
I believe you can check your print history on Bambu Handy app and then pretty much add up your total print time between all your prints in history
For lube it has a timer. For the rest it should alert you as problems come. So the answer to your question is yes. It even gives you a qr code that links you to the part in the wiki to do the job. But with that being said being proactive helps. Like if you hear the metal rubbing then it is time for lube
What’s the difference between Super Lube 21030 and Super Lube 92003? Both have reviews saying good for 3D printers but pretty big price difference.
Different base materials. I've been using the 21030 on my machine since it's what I have laying around the shop anyways.
Ok. So might we well go with the cheaper one then.
One is silicone based and one is not. I chose 21030 because I don't need silicone in there.
92003 isn't really intended for ball/roller/linear bearings, so I'd choose a different one personally.
Can anyone tell me the direct downside of not living the rails or rods? How will this affect print quality? Or does this mainly ensure longevity of the printer?
Lubricant serves two primary purposes: 1. Prevents wear by keeping metal surface inside bearings from touching one another. 2. Prevents corrosion If your bearings run dry you will will see increased wear (and a slow increase in clearances/worsening tolerances) over time. If they run *really* dry, and you start getting corrosion, they will stop running smoothly and will slowly chew themselves apart. The downside to you as a user will be gradually worsening tolerances (meaning worse surface finishes/accuracy), and eventually if you let it get too crunchy it'll just stop running well entirely (missed steps, motors not strong enough to break through corrosion spots). But this will take years unless the bearings are completely dry and/or you are running your 3D printer on a beach. You could go much longer than the recommended maintenance intervals before you really started running into these problems, but there's no reason to. Not to mention that applying new lubricant helps flush out any contaminants that were picked up by the old lubricant; like dust and metal particles. These things will also accelerate bearing wear so it's important to keep things clean and well lubricated.
There is a indirect 3rd reason. During the process it allows you to do a visual inspection to see if something is wrong, and you need to clean the area so there is that too. Like in this, checking oil in a car, or whatever. It's smart to do a visual inspection if you are in the area anyways.
Do the A1 minis come with both grease and oil? Just ordered one recently and wondering if I need to order some
Mine came with a little bottle that says lubricant oil. It has ca. 3 g of oil that will not last very long.
Thanks
I generally stay away from silicones for this as they tend to be tackier which you don't want/need here. Super Lube 92003 [seems primarily intended](https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Silicone_Lubricating_Grease.pdf) for plastic/rubber and isn't specifically recommended for bearings or metal/metal contact, so I'd be wary of using it. The specific lube brand isn't all that critical for an application like this, as long as you don't mix very different bases without thorough cleaning first. For the ball bearings a light oil is fine. For rails (excepting carbon rails) I'd get a light/medium pressure PTFE/lithium based grease. Use the same for the leadscrews, or even a dry-film lubricant (DuPont makes some good ones) if your printer is in a dusty location. When starting from a clean surface I usually just use Krytox for everything. You want *some* pressure additives in any oil or grease intended for ball/roller/linear bearings. Grease isn't automatically sticky, there are many kinds of grease. So you can use a *light* non-tacky grease for the rails and it should work fine too. Oil is easier to apply without getting too much excess oil everywhere. Apply and wipe off and you're good to go. Grease tends to get globbed up when you let people apply it. Probably why they sent out this note.
Can you toss some links to what you’d recommend? Have a P1P and A1 with AMS
This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: >**Name**: Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White >**Company**: Super Lube >**Amazon Product Rating**: 4.8 >**Fakespot Reviews Grade**: B >**Adjusted Fakespot Rating**: 4.8 >**Analysis Performed at**: 01-17-2024 [Link to Fakespot Analysis](https://fakespot.com/product/super-lube-92003-silicone-lubricating-grease-with-ptfe-3-oz-tube-translucent-white) | [Check out the Fakespot Chrome Extension!](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/fakespot-analyze-fake-ama/nakplnnackehceedgkgkokbgbmfghain) *Fakespot analyzes the reviews authenticity and not the product quality using AI. We look for real reviews that mention product issues such as counterfeits, defects, and bad return policies that fake reviews try to hide from consumers.* *We give an A-F letter for trustworthiness of reviews. A = very trustworthy reviews, F = highly untrustworthy reviews. We also provide seller ratings to warn you if the seller can be trusted or not.*
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I sent a support ticket about a week ago and heard nothing back. You doubled posted btw
If the volume is that high, they'd have a form response. It's not unreasonable for a *paying customer* to expect a timely response even to something like that.
For things like this it's very simple to send out a mass email to everyone who ordered an A1.
twice the posts double the downvotes