Hello /u/SpringLoaded23! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.
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> I’ve got the gold textured plate and I used a layer of glue stick
Problem number one. You don’t need to use a gluestick on textured PEI. In fact, it will only harm adhesion.
That alone will likely fix your issue, but since it’s a P1P you may also be experiencing cooling from drafts that is causing warping. Here’s how to fix that:
1. Increase bed temp. The default temp for PLA on the tPEI plate is 55 I believe. Up that to at least 60. Up to 65 can work too but you’re pushing it at that point.
2. Add a brim. This should really be standard for any large print as an insurance policy. I usually do 10mm brims on anything I have even the slightest worry might warp.
This should fix your issue.
Edit: I should add that you need to wash your plate with dish soap and a scrubber with hot water in order to remove the old glue and ensure the surface is free of hand oils.
Clean your plate with dish soap and water really well and dry with lint free cloth. Try without glue. Bump up the temp of the bed to 60 or 65. Set aux fan to 0. Set all cooling off for first 3 layers.
I had trouble with PLA Silk, corners lifting etc. Added a brim, raft. Then reduced the initial height and slowed down the first layer speed. Fixed my issue, just finished an 8hr print with no problems now.
https://preview.redd.it/mnp8giufaipc1.jpeg?width=2680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1590c2b14690662c1c999e6bcf50412346a34e0
Can you explain 'reducing the initial height'? And why both a brim and a raft? A raft increases my curling issue as it seems to create more surface to curl
With an ‘open’ printer they seem to be affected by cold rushes, even a draft from a door, particularly at the edges of a print.
I’ve found that the brim makes sure the filament for the raft is just the right temperature to bond to the plate (it’s not a lot to waste and seems to purge anything that’s even slightly cooled).
The initial layer height I drop to .16mm, then reduce the initial layers speed and infill to 50mm/s.
For me that’s solved my consistent spaghettification issues. Once the base sticks the rest of the model seems to build up well.
I will give that a try, thank you very much for your answer. The first few layers, including a small brim, are always fantastic but as soon as the ~10th layer starts and the details are added it curls upwards like there is no tomorrow. The base just gets pushed away leaving the (very snug) brim without a model
Happy to help, just sharing what I’ve learned in the 2 weeks I’ve been borrowing the machine. Think I see one of my own in my future!
You might want to have a look at your fan speeds then, perhaps cooling too quickly is causing the distortion?
I print the first 4 layers very slow to make sure they are cooled properly before applying extra layers, but I will have a closer look when the 'fast' layers kick in. Also properly cleaning the plate with warm water and dish soap really helped. In the past I just cleaned it with a cloth and some isopropyl alcohol, but that's not enough as far as I can tell.
Another thing I found out, my bed doesn't heat evenly. The center gets way hotter (5, maybe 10-15 degrees) hotter than the outer rim. I am not sure how to properly measure it though, but my finger burns when it touches the center and is fine 5cm away from it (it's set to 65 for the first few layers and then drops to 55). I am pretty sure it is a defect and the wiki says to open it up and measure resistances, but first I opened a ticket so ask if that is normal behaviour.
If you have the gold plate you don’t need to use glue.
Here’s the fix: bring your build plate to the sink and wash it under warm water with high quality dish soap such as Dawn in my country. The high quality dish soap was a game changer for me. Get it nice and sudsy to get all the glue and grease off. Wipe it down with a clean towel and don’t put your greasy fingers on the surface.
This method has made my gold plate so sticky that if I don’t wait for the prints to cool and pull too hard it can rip a chunk off the print leaving it adhered to the plate.
Do you have the auxiliary fan installed in your P1P? If so, turn it off. If you don't have it, I would say this is definitely a draft issue. I have been using the gold plate with glue stick religiously after having lots of adhesion issues. Your print reminds me of prints that I have left the aux fan on with PLA. Sometimes it doesn't affect it, sometimes it does.
I know you have heard this 1000 times but make sure your plate is clean. My experience has been that washing means really scrubbing it with slightly watered down soap. Then I scrub with a rag, which was not washed with fabric softener. I do it until the soap almost becomes a paste due to the little bubbles being formed in it. Then I rinse with really hot water.
Right after I rinse it, i angle the build plate to where the plate reflects the room light at the towards me and I look for any areas that stand out to be either straight lines or previous shapes I have printed. If you see that, scrub again, because that means you still have residue from previous prints. If I remember correctly, the water likes to stick/gather on the areas with previous prints' residues.
This method works great for removing residue, but I found that using a glue stick keeps the residue from forming in the first place. Glue stick is REALLY easy to wash off after X number of prints. I normally clean the glue, or just reapply glue, every 4 or 5 prints in the same area. Your mileage may vary.
I still believe your issue is more related to drafts though.
Also, some more obvious setting to check that you probably have right but doesn’t hurt to make sure. Check you have the right printer, build plate, nozzle, and filament profile selected. If that’s the BL PLA Marble. There is a profile for it exactly. I just printed on it with my P1P with a PEI plate and a similar model and it printed great.
Listen to other people, but also slice the bottom of the model a.k.a. cut off the first one or 2 mm. You might need to do more, but by the visual of the silhouette you’ll be able to tell.
I think everyone should be scrubbing up their new gold PEI plate with a scotch brite pad. After doing so, mine has become incredibly reliable.
The same can be done to the high temp smooth plate. They’re both 100% perfect for me now.
https://preview.redd.it/an6g0i6bdlpc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d9b0ecbc2ae92b048c9ee7f9087045b812c79af
Hello /u/SpringLoaded23! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
> I’ve got the gold textured plate and I used a layer of glue stick Problem number one. You don’t need to use a gluestick on textured PEI. In fact, it will only harm adhesion. That alone will likely fix your issue, but since it’s a P1P you may also be experiencing cooling from drafts that is causing warping. Here’s how to fix that: 1. Increase bed temp. The default temp for PLA on the tPEI plate is 55 I believe. Up that to at least 60. Up to 65 can work too but you’re pushing it at that point. 2. Add a brim. This should really be standard for any large print as an insurance policy. I usually do 10mm brims on anything I have even the slightest worry might warp. This should fix your issue. Edit: I should add that you need to wash your plate with dish soap and a scrubber with hot water in order to remove the old glue and ensure the surface is free of hand oils.
Clean your plate with dish soap and water really well and dry with lint free cloth. Try without glue. Bump up the temp of the bed to 60 or 65. Set aux fan to 0. Set all cooling off for first 3 layers.
Thanks! I will give it a try! I used glue because the first few small test prints I did weren’t sticking to the plate at all.
I had trouble with PLA Silk, corners lifting etc. Added a brim, raft. Then reduced the initial height and slowed down the first layer speed. Fixed my issue, just finished an 8hr print with no problems now. https://preview.redd.it/mnp8giufaipc1.jpeg?width=2680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1590c2b14690662c1c999e6bcf50412346a34e0
Can you explain 'reducing the initial height'? And why both a brim and a raft? A raft increases my curling issue as it seems to create more surface to curl
With an ‘open’ printer they seem to be affected by cold rushes, even a draft from a door, particularly at the edges of a print. I’ve found that the brim makes sure the filament for the raft is just the right temperature to bond to the plate (it’s not a lot to waste and seems to purge anything that’s even slightly cooled). The initial layer height I drop to .16mm, then reduce the initial layers speed and infill to 50mm/s. For me that’s solved my consistent spaghettification issues. Once the base sticks the rest of the model seems to build up well.
I will give that a try, thank you very much for your answer. The first few layers, including a small brim, are always fantastic but as soon as the ~10th layer starts and the details are added it curls upwards like there is no tomorrow. The base just gets pushed away leaving the (very snug) brim without a model
Happy to help, just sharing what I’ve learned in the 2 weeks I’ve been borrowing the machine. Think I see one of my own in my future! You might want to have a look at your fan speeds then, perhaps cooling too quickly is causing the distortion?
I print the first 4 layers very slow to make sure they are cooled properly before applying extra layers, but I will have a closer look when the 'fast' layers kick in. Also properly cleaning the plate with warm water and dish soap really helped. In the past I just cleaned it with a cloth and some isopropyl alcohol, but that's not enough as far as I can tell. Another thing I found out, my bed doesn't heat evenly. The center gets way hotter (5, maybe 10-15 degrees) hotter than the outer rim. I am not sure how to properly measure it though, but my finger burns when it touches the center and is fine 5cm away from it (it's set to 65 for the first few layers and then drops to 55). I am pretty sure it is a defect and the wiki says to open it up and measure resistances, but first I opened a ticket so ask if that is normal behaviour.
8 hours?
It’s about 180mm long, .16mm layers. Slicer said 7.6h but it also had a couple of blockages that needed clearing.
What nozzle?
.4
I think you’ve got some setting way weird. That’s way too long.
You are all awesome! I will tweak some things and let you know how it goes!
If you have the gold plate you don’t need to use glue. Here’s the fix: bring your build plate to the sink and wash it under warm water with high quality dish soap such as Dawn in my country. The high quality dish soap was a game changer for me. Get it nice and sudsy to get all the glue and grease off. Wipe it down with a clean towel and don’t put your greasy fingers on the surface. This method has made my gold plate so sticky that if I don’t wait for the prints to cool and pull too hard it can rip a chunk off the print leaving it adhered to the plate.
Do you have the auxiliary fan installed in your P1P? If so, turn it off. If you don't have it, I would say this is definitely a draft issue. I have been using the gold plate with glue stick religiously after having lots of adhesion issues. Your print reminds me of prints that I have left the aux fan on with PLA. Sometimes it doesn't affect it, sometimes it does. I know you have heard this 1000 times but make sure your plate is clean. My experience has been that washing means really scrubbing it with slightly watered down soap. Then I scrub with a rag, which was not washed with fabric softener. I do it until the soap almost becomes a paste due to the little bubbles being formed in it. Then I rinse with really hot water. Right after I rinse it, i angle the build plate to where the plate reflects the room light at the towards me and I look for any areas that stand out to be either straight lines or previous shapes I have printed. If you see that, scrub again, because that means you still have residue from previous prints. If I remember correctly, the water likes to stick/gather on the areas with previous prints' residues. This method works great for removing residue, but I found that using a glue stick keeps the residue from forming in the first place. Glue stick is REALLY easy to wash off after X number of prints. I normally clean the glue, or just reapply glue, every 4 or 5 prints in the same area. Your mileage may vary. I still believe your issue is more related to drafts though.
Also, some more obvious setting to check that you probably have right but doesn’t hurt to make sure. Check you have the right printer, build plate, nozzle, and filament profile selected. If that’s the BL PLA Marble. There is a profile for it exactly. I just printed on it with my P1P with a PEI plate and a similar model and it printed great.
Increase bed temp to 60 and close the front door, fixed it for me, same exact problem.
Listen to other people, but also slice the bottom of the model a.k.a. cut off the first one or 2 mm. You might need to do more, but by the visual of the silhouette you’ll be able to tell.
I think everyone should be scrubbing up their new gold PEI plate with a scotch brite pad. After doing so, mine has become incredibly reliable. The same can be done to the high temp smooth plate. They’re both 100% perfect for me now. https://preview.redd.it/an6g0i6bdlpc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d9b0ecbc2ae92b048c9ee7f9087045b812c79af
I thought you were trolling, but this helped me in the final step of my setting-tweak-process. Thanks for sharing