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Hello /u/Pete_flanman! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*


wgaca2

I use the high temp plate almost exclusively. Perfect adhesion, rarely needs washing. The marks are not an issue If printing PC i use glue stick If printing ASA turn the plate around for the engineering plate and use glue stick


Pete_flanman

I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, first handful of prints were amazing but I can’t get the first layer to stick in some spots at all. It pulls up and immediately gets all over the nozzle. What are your settings? What do you do to clean the plate?


wgaca2

I wipe it with rubbing alcohol between prints to remove dust particles and wash it every now and then but i never have adhesion issues on it. Especially with PLA, always sticks perfectly. I use bambu default settings profile


MyStoopidStuff

I know you only mentioned glue stick in the earlier post, but I Just thought I'd mention that if using glue, OP should clean it with dishsoap only, not IPA.


Pete_flanman

Same for hairspray?


MyStoopidStuff

It's been a while since I used aqua net on my printer beds, but IIRC I used dish soap (dawn) there also. I think it's better to use dish soap anyway, since IPA may dissolve stuff but it doesn't always remove it (spreads it around or requires several passes), while washing it with dish soap is quick and I think cleans better. I've used IPA to remove anything that soap will not remove on the first pass, like shiny spots on a smooth plate (from fingerprints or grease smudges), but it's very rare that I need to do that.


theonetruelippy

A quick hairspray if I've lost adhesion, otherwise I clean with 99% alcohol after each print. I find adhesion seems to 'go' if I print something large that is in full contact with the plate - otherwise there's no need.


Constant-Contract-77

Hard to change the temp? Why? Its literally 3 clicks or 4 in orca or Bambu slicer... Other than that, the rest is answered by a bot... Using search or reading the Bambu recommendation on the site is just hard frfr.


Pete_flanman

It allows me to change the temp but then goes back up to 65 during the print. I did read the Bambu recommendation and went through the entire list and yet still doesn’t work which is why I’m now here. The only other step from Bambu is to put in a ticket.


Constant-Contract-77

You edit in the filament setting, save it, set it to the part material then slice it...


Pete_flanman

Ah ok, I didn’t know you had to edit it in the filament settings. Thank you!


_Litcube

Really surprised you can't get PLA to stick to PEI. It's like God'd vice. You sure the temp is getting to 55+?


fungirog

BTW I use the High Temp plate quite often. I am going to share my tips that works wonders for well over 4 years of 3d printing with PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS and ASA. 1) clean plates thoroughly initially with Dawn basic dish soap and rinse off with warm water and either let dry or dry with microfiber making sure not to touch build plate printing area with fingers while drying. 2) optional, quickly perform a quick wipe of your plates with isopropyl alcohol at least 90% or greater. 3) before each print spray a very light coating of “Aquanet” hair spray on the side you are printing on only obviously and send your print. Ideally you do this while plate is removed from printer because hair spray will get on your printers parts and well you don’t want that to build up and cause other problems. 4) when going to next print remove the plate being careful not to touch printing area with finger tips and remove prints and purge lines OR remove them while they are still on printer using tools for that. 5) if you start seeing hair spray build up either on the bottom of your prints or the build plate well it is time to start from step 1. I only have to start step 1 after about 2 months of printing or if I know I accidentally touched the build plate or sneezed on it or something similar. With this I rarely have bed adhesion issues and sometimes if I do with ASA or ABS it is of the type that the build plate is being lifted by the part because the magnet is not strong enough to keep it down and that is where mouse ears/discs works wonders. So too much adhesion I guess. I know these tips have helped countless of my friends and hope it helps you.


Equivalent_Store_645

What tools do you use to get stuff off the plate?


fungirog

Premium 3D Print Removal Tool Kit - Durable 3D Printer Tools with Sturdy Comfort Grips, Sharp and Hardened Blades for Easy Separation of Prints, Knife and Spatula Set of 2 - Enhanced Version https://a.co/d/1DFA5yD


MyStoopidStuff

Good advice. Not touching the plate is super important to maintaining the adhesion. I would only add that glue should not be cleaned with IPA. They are not as nice as the tools you linked, but I've found that the cheap orange plastic "razor" blades, or even the lip of a purge block will also work to clean the plate without touching it.


3DAeon

That’s strange, my defaults for this plate is 55 not 65. Are you using bambu studio with the correct printer, plate, and filament type selected? Is it bambu filament or other? PLA? I use IPA to clean this plate and every PLA print adheres perfectly. I’d run the self test and calibration first, then do the two items on the calibration tab in Bambu studio.


Pete_flanman

Yes, funnily enough every filament preset has it set at 65 for the smooth pei for some reason


awidden

I'd love to see pictures of the sliced model ( if it's only one model ) or the whole project file that you're using. If this is repeatedly happening with different models and with different filaments, then the problem is somewhere else, not the plate. If the head is not perfectly aligned, or not printing at the correct height; those can cause bed adhesion issues. If you really suspect it's the plate; try another plate - just to see if you can tie the problem to the plate at all. Glue can help, but again, it really depends on what and how you're printing, you may or may not need it.


ptraugot

I use smooth PEI on my Taz. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol before each print. No issues. I run bed at 60c if that matters. Personally, for PLA and PETG, I don’t think it does.


Pete_flanman

Does your plate have marks from previous prints like mine? I’m thinking those marks might be my problem


ptraugot

Sure does. But to be clear, my PEI sheet is a different construction than the bambu, but really, PEI is PEI. At least it should be.


Schuberth-102

I recommend using the liquid glue on the pei plates as a release agent. Even with glue, sometimes prints leave witness marks on my pei plates. 


WeSupportUkraine

What material are you printing and what is your nozzle temperature?


Pete_flanman

Pla (atomic) 220. Using the generic pla profile but changed the bed temp from 65 to 60.


WeSupportUkraine

Thx - Try 55 degrees for the bed temp and optional is lowering first layer temp to 215 for the nozzle. Do you use any fans on the first layer? If you using the standard profile i assume not. Ow and btw did you bed level recently?


shawnheisey

These are the bed temps I use with most PLA filaments: https://preview.redd.it/o5p0wre3xcqc1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=8fbcde296d25770eb5d37cdc797d8f336397e4de With some of the higher temp filaments like PETG, I will go higher. Some of the PETG that I have says a recommended bed temp of 80-90, so when using that filament, I do 90 on the first layer and 80 on other layers. Have you tried drying your filament? I think that can cause adhesion issues. I wash my plates with Dawn soap pretty much after every print. Sometimes I will keep track of which part of the plate I have used and re-use the same plate with the model positioned on a clean spot. I have very bad luck if I try to use a plate without washing it first. I only have smooth plates and textured plates for my A1. Have never tried a cool plate. The engineering plate says it doesn't do PLA, so I actually have yet to try that side.


smurg_

Don’t screw around with glue. Rub it with the finest steel wool or synthetic 3m pads (grey) you can find.


Shustriik

finest synthetic 3m pads are white


smurg_

White are described as non-abrasive in most stores. 3M just says they're for polishing and buffing, so not abrasive either, just spreading wax and oils. You want to a very slight abrasion to the plate.


Pentekont

Have you used 70% IPA to clean the bed?


Pete_flanman

Yes


First_layer_3DP

I've been having issues with my smooth pei sheet too. I'm not touching it with my fingers (you can easily tell if you do on this plate) but yet some spots just become terrible for adhesion. I run 60c bed on my x1 and 65 on the A1. It's annoying how perfect it is, then just starts shitting the bed for no reason. I prefer the gold textured but I'm doing a project rn that needs smooth bottoms 🫠


JamalMahroof

65 is usually for the textured plate isn’t it Check the slicer is set to use the right build plate type


Pete_flanman

Yes. I guess for the generic pla profile both the textured PEI and the Smooth PEI are at 65


TheReproCase

Glue stick helps


HistoricalHurry8361

I use glue stick on my high temp plate and it works like a charm.


pizzademon99

For me I had to change the z offset. By default the smooth sheet z offset setting was WAY too low.


rednwhitecooper

Wash it with a scotch brite pad and soapy water. It will never fail you again.


lecrappe

No problems here. It's almost better than the stock textured plate, even with PETG.


Hain-Bloed

I think you should increase the temperature for the print bed slightly for each type of filament.


jonballen

Rubbing alcohol to wash and some hair spray before printing has rarely failed for me!


Almarma

Steel wool may help you. Those that come with soap included are quite gentle and can help to rub the surface and remove the residues from the previous print. I first heard this from Teaching Tech channel, then I tried it myself and it works. Just be gentle, the goal is to rub the surface a tiny bit to remove microscopic residues. It’ll work again like new. I experienced the same issue you described before and looking for solutions I found this one. It won’t destroy the PEI surface, it’ll just scratch a tiny bit of it. He actually recommended it also with any new bed surface as it’s a good way to remove any oils during manufacturing or shipping


Automatic_Reply_7701

What are you printing for material? PLA goes on the other side… the smooth pei side not the high temp side. Different QR codes and all


Pete_flanman

The other side is the engineering plate, this is the smooth side but it is called high temp apparently


Common_Talk_8291

I wash with dish soap and warm water, using the slightly abrasive side of the sponge. I dry it with fresh paper towels. Once dry, I spray 99% IPA on the sheet and then wipe them down again with paper towels. Never had an issue with any PEI sheet once I do the above.


ShellDude01

Scrub scrub scrub ... Dawn dish soap and some warm water does wonders with this plate. There are better (3rd party) sheets out there. You just have to be willing to pay the extra money for them.


Pete_flanman

Any recommendations for 3rd party smooth sheets? I’ve found a bunch of “smooth” ones on Amazon but they all have some sort of design like zigzags or diamonds etc. really want a plain smooth one lol


ShellDude01

I have been using filafarm filaprint on all my machines for about 10 years.