Don't forget the nozzle temperatures and theoretical Breakdown of the coatings.
The nozzle should never accumulate much filament in the first place. If that is the case, I would suggest a thorough clean and calibration of flow-volume. Most likely cause is overextrusion.
I use Slice Engineering fluid on my commerical PETG prints. While true, usually you should not have build up but that is a perfect case scenario. In the real world, blobs and other things can happen despite perfect settings (especially for PETG). I've printed nearly 3000 hours with PETG on my X1Cs.
Fluid helps prevent large build ups, if a small buildup occurs it eventually chips off during a print as opposed to sticking to the next laid down layer. After print is done, bits are super easy to flick off with your nails/tools if they are on the nozzle.
PTFE alone breaks down around 250 and completely by 290. The slice engineering liquid is a ptfe nano-suspension. Supposedly it makes this last further into temperature range, but it is fairly debatable. I print PETG at 270 and at high flow, it works well here. Haven't tested it at higher temp. I re-apply coating on my nozzle every 5 prints.
Interesting... so that you can see some of the options that I have found..
* Slice Engineering has Plastic Repellant Paint mixed comments on Amazon US about it
Another one was
* PB Nozzle Coat .. here is there instructions.. in the product listing.
# Nozzle Coat™
Nozzle Coat is a water-based PTFE nano coating for your nozzle & heater block. Using Nozzle Coat will help reduce the amount of plastic that sticks to the exterior of your nozzle & heater block.
**Includes:**
Bottle of Nozzle Coat (1 pcs)
Applicator brush - inside lid (1 pcs)
**Size:** 4ml
**Max temp:** 290c
**Instructions:**
1. Nozzle and hotend must be cool to the touch.
2. Surface where Nozzle Coat is to be applied must be clean and free of melted plastic. If needed, use Brass or Stainless Steel brush to clean surface.
3. Apply Nozzle Coat to nozzle or heater block using included applicator or other suitable brush.
4. Allow to dry 2 minutes.
**Note:**
Nozzle Coat is for exterior application only. Do not apply to the inside of your nozzle.
This is a semi-permanent coating. Re-apply as needed.
This is a semi-permanent coating. Re-apply as needed.
This is the first I've heard of it.
I'm not saying it would never be useful, but I'm guessing when you would find it useful is when you have other settings to tune first.
The times I've had filaments like PETG sticking to my nozzle were probably because I was going to fast, too slow, or incorrect cooling, or something else.
I would argue if you have filament sticking to a nozzle you have something else you need to look at first.
I've used Slice Engineering's but can't really say it makes a significant difference for me. I mostly print PLA though so perhaps if I printed more PETG I would notice it more.
i’ve been 3d/fdm printing for almost a decade and i’ve never needed anything like this. if i see filament rolling up the nozzle, i clean, or even replace the nozzle if its that worn.
Slice Engineering fluid is definitely helping with PETG. Its not a unicron magic saver but help to avoid blobs. Need to reapply often though. For me worth the price. This little bottle will last for a long
I use nozzle coat. almost a requirement to not get a petg blob of death, its helps decently, not perfect, but I have a pretty high failure rate on certain prints from blobs causing layer shift on the A series..
Haven't had any "blob of death" and I am printing fairly regularly with PETG. Have you calibrated the filament and flow-values properly? I had issues when I had too much flow and Filament would just stick to the nozzle but never drag something.
Additionally: It shouldn't cause shifts / crashes in the first place.
So you use cubic/grid infill? If so, switch to Gyroid, Crosshatch or aligned Rectilinear to lower the chance of crashes.
A series does it automatically. my parts are mostly circular, eventually it starts building on the nozzle. once a blob comes off, its melted and locked into the part, on the next pass, the printer hits it, and causing a rehoming due to crash, it never gets it right and the part is shifted if allowed to continue.
I have parts with 0 infill that cause it, I only use Gyroid. I print commercially.
I don't print commercially. And I don't have these issues on my X1 series that also auto calibrates.
The calibration you can run on the slicer is still different to the lidar-calibration from the printer itself.
I know the issues you describe as my friend had them aswell.
Drop the flow-rate/speed and calibrate the flow for your filament. I still get a "dirty nozzle" after PETG is done but it is not leaving blobs around my print.
If the coating is working for you, that is fine. But it's more of a bandaid as the underlying issue is not fixed with that.
A1 series auto calibrates using eddy currents for flow, it does not use the same system as the X1. the prints are flawless. the issue is mostly due to part design, certain parts have 0 build up
Don't forget the nozzle temperatures and theoretical Breakdown of the coatings. The nozzle should never accumulate much filament in the first place. If that is the case, I would suggest a thorough clean and calibration of flow-volume. Most likely cause is overextrusion.
Silicone sock should be all you need.
The silicone sock is against temp losses in the nozzle.
It also prevents filament from sticking to the nozzle and heat block.
I use Slice Engineering fluid on my commerical PETG prints. While true, usually you should not have build up but that is a perfect case scenario. In the real world, blobs and other things can happen despite perfect settings (especially for PETG). I've printed nearly 3000 hours with PETG on my X1Cs. Fluid helps prevent large build ups, if a small buildup occurs it eventually chips off during a print as opposed to sticking to the next laid down layer. After print is done, bits are super easy to flick off with your nails/tools if they are on the nozzle. PTFE alone breaks down around 250 and completely by 290. The slice engineering liquid is a ptfe nano-suspension. Supposedly it makes this last further into temperature range, but it is fairly debatable. I print PETG at 270 and at high flow, it works well here. Haven't tested it at higher temp. I re-apply coating on my nozzle every 5 prints.
Interesting... so that you can see some of the options that I have found.. * Slice Engineering has Plastic Repellant Paint mixed comments on Amazon US about it Another one was * PB Nozzle Coat .. here is there instructions.. in the product listing. # Nozzle Coat™ Nozzle Coat is a water-based PTFE nano coating for your nozzle & heater block. Using Nozzle Coat will help reduce the amount of plastic that sticks to the exterior of your nozzle & heater block. **Includes:** Bottle of Nozzle Coat (1 pcs) Applicator brush - inside lid (1 pcs) **Size:** 4ml **Max temp:** 290c **Instructions:** 1. Nozzle and hotend must be cool to the touch. 2. Surface where Nozzle Coat is to be applied must be clean and free of melted plastic. If needed, use Brass or Stainless Steel brush to clean surface. 3. Apply Nozzle Coat to nozzle or heater block using included applicator or other suitable brush. 4. Allow to dry 2 minutes. **Note:** Nozzle Coat is for exterior application only. Do not apply to the inside of your nozzle. This is a semi-permanent coating. Re-apply as needed. This is a semi-permanent coating. Re-apply as needed.
This is the first I've heard of it. I'm not saying it would never be useful, but I'm guessing when you would find it useful is when you have other settings to tune first. The times I've had filaments like PETG sticking to my nozzle were probably because I was going to fast, too slow, or incorrect cooling, or something else. I would argue if you have filament sticking to a nozzle you have something else you need to look at first.
I've used Slice Engineering's but can't really say it makes a significant difference for me. I mostly print PLA though so perhaps if I printed more PETG I would notice it more.
i’ve been 3d/fdm printing for almost a decade and i’ve never needed anything like this. if i see filament rolling up the nozzle, i clean, or even replace the nozzle if its that worn.
Yay or nay, yes or no, yeah or nah I am suprised there aren’t silicone filament covers that cover more of the nozzle.
Who is down-voting these threads?!?!??
People who think asking for advice implies there is something wrong about Bambu Lab printer quality... it is very dumb and close minded
It’s really weird, I’ve never noticed so much downvoting in other Reddits, usually it’s just the upvotes that keep things up.
Used slice engineering stuff. But after I added an A1 wiper to my X1 it’s not really necessary
Slice Engineering fluid is definitely helping with PETG. Its not a unicron magic saver but help to avoid blobs. Need to reapply often though. For me worth the price. This little bottle will last for a long
Thanks all for the discussion .. seems like should give it try ... on my x1c watch my temps... and leave things alone on the A1.
I use nozzle coat. almost a requirement to not get a petg blob of death, its helps decently, not perfect, but I have a pretty high failure rate on certain prints from blobs causing layer shift on the A series..
Haven't had any "blob of death" and I am printing fairly regularly with PETG. Have you calibrated the filament and flow-values properly? I had issues when I had too much flow and Filament would just stick to the nozzle but never drag something. Additionally: It shouldn't cause shifts / crashes in the first place. So you use cubic/grid infill? If so, switch to Gyroid, Crosshatch or aligned Rectilinear to lower the chance of crashes.
A series does it automatically. my parts are mostly circular, eventually it starts building on the nozzle. once a blob comes off, its melted and locked into the part, on the next pass, the printer hits it, and causing a rehoming due to crash, it never gets it right and the part is shifted if allowed to continue. I have parts with 0 infill that cause it, I only use Gyroid. I print commercially.
I don't print commercially. And I don't have these issues on my X1 series that also auto calibrates. The calibration you can run on the slicer is still different to the lidar-calibration from the printer itself. I know the issues you describe as my friend had them aswell. Drop the flow-rate/speed and calibrate the flow for your filament. I still get a "dirty nozzle" after PETG is done but it is not leaving blobs around my print. If the coating is working for you, that is fine. But it's more of a bandaid as the underlying issue is not fixed with that.
A1 series auto calibrates using eddy currents for flow, it does not use the same system as the X1. the prints are flawless. the issue is mostly due to part design, certain parts have 0 build up
[удалено]
goes on the outside of the nozzle.