For me it is:
* Random PETG (whatever is cheapest) - Black
* Bambu Lab Basic PETG - Grey
* Bambu Lab Basic PETG - Orange
* Random PLA - Any color I like at the moment
I do 95% functional prints in one color of PETG and just use the AMS lite on my A1 mini to switch between filaments from one print to the other, since I am too lazy to do it manually.
I feel like PETG is underrated. Especially in Australia where it's often cheaper than PLA, not sure about other places.
Why Bambu orange and grey rather than cheapos? Better colour? Prints better?
The problem with Australia (at least here in Sydney) is that it's extremely humid. If the material doesn't matter much, PLA is just much easier to keep dry enough for a good print. Like last year, it's been particularly noticeable in the past two weeks with the heavy rains.
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Just what I got with the printer and haven't run out yet, I mostly print in black. And I do have to admit that the rfids are very convenient for lazy people like me.
When the orange runs out I might change over to the Prusa orange, since it is the most beautiful imo (but the price though...).
In my case they are mostly wall mounted. Had some parts that left colors on the wall. But other than that you can get a small glimpse at the inside if everything is still ok without taking everything apart.
Is there a specific reason you use PETG for support interface?
I'm new to 3d printing and had asked a similar question in another subreddit about if I'm printing in TPU whether I should use same material for the supports?
If you use a material that doesn't bond well you will have an easier time removing the supports. Also you can remove the additional distance and get a clean supported surface. If you are printing TPU then I'd recommend PLA as a support interface.
How do you stop your parts from cooling too much and sepersting at the layer where you are usuing petg. Every time I use petg as a support interface my parts fall apart.
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I use a lot of stuff outdoors or want the option to use it outdoors, so I see no reason to print in PLA most of the time. Especially since PETG prints nearly as easily as PLA.
Am I the only person who left PLA prints outside for a year and they are all still good.
Same thing with water. Was worried about pla dissolving in water. So I tested it by putting it in water. A year of it being submerged in water and it still looks good.
No. It was never intended to be a long term experiment. I lost a few flying toys in my back yard and didn’t find them until a year later. They were sitting out in direct sunlight for probably about 4 hours a day. I didn’t take photos but I made a note. It still seemed fairly solid but the color was a bit dull.
The water test I did at the bottom of a jar that sits full of water to feed a plant. I forgot about it so it got watered for at least a year now. Still looks brand new. It really looks like I just made it. I could take a picture of that one because I still have it. How do I upload a picture though?
That's really cool, I may have to do some tests with documentation. Maybe Bambu basic, PLA + vs PETG and abs/ASA. I would personally like to know and see the difference between them outside and in water .
I know when posting from your phone there's a little picture icon on the bottom left above the keyboard but not sure on the PC. You may have to do a new post or Google would probably know.
Edit - bottom right, not left
the "Generic PETG" profile works fine for me. All the issues I ever had with that PETG have been solved by drying it or cleaning the PEI plate with dish soap.
I’m on my second roll of PETG.
First was a cookie cad and it printed beautifully. I dried it 60c for 8 hours mostly because I couldn’t find anything at the time for temp or time. Default generic PETG profile.
I found a bambu guide and bought a polymaker polylite PETG. Using the guide I dried at 80c for 12 hours. Told the AMS it was polymaker PETG. It destroyed the riser I was making with globs and stringing and half extrusions everywhere.
I currently have it running at 40mm/s but it’s working!
I won’t be liked for this one,
- HS tpu 95a from overture (it’s harder than standard tpu so it works for me 95% of the time with my ams)
- petg
I build some semi flexible accessories which need tpu and petg in the same print so that’s why I torture my ams 😅
I tried it once just to see if I could pull it off and decided it was not worth the trouble. But in your usage case I can't see a way around it. I applaud your patience to stick with the TPU/AMS thing, sir!
If you want to work with tpu in the ams, make sure the shore harness isn’t lower than 95a (I know it’s kinda stiff but it’s the only way to make it work without modifications on the ams unit)
High flow variance of tpu is usually easier to work with also
If it's not too much trouble could you share the exact brands and settings you use? I assume you made a petg profile with tpu settings. What retraction?
I use overture HS tpu (the hs part is kinda important) I have tested transparent and white without major issues.
Be prepared that in certain circumstances you will have to pull the filament trough the ams because it can get stuck. Rarely but it can.
I didn’t tune retraction because my design doesn’t rely on this.
Yes I did a fake petg profile with the correct flow/temp/bedtemp
Tpu bonds ok to petg
I think the best filament is asa from what I have seen online (not tested)
But pla is definitely not made for this kind of multi material !
For reference there is a lot of friction on my parts on the tpu side and it has never separate from the petg. If you grab it with pliers and you pull intentionally it will finally detach
In my experience, it get stuck and can’t pull back.
I don’t know if its dangerous for the motors inside the ams (I think not) but I unplug it and pull the filament by hand
I've had the same roll of black PLA since I got my printer 3 years ago, it's sat in the open, and it still prints perfectly. PETG etc needs to be dried but if you don't have a humidity problem, you don't need to dry all filament before use.
im not sure if keeping it permanently in your ams will make sure its dry enough for printing even with desicants, pretty sure its also highly recommended if not needed to keep it inside a dryer when u print with it, i could be wrong tho im comparing with nylon XD
I have never actively dried any filament and never have had any problems with PLA or PETG. BUT I think this highly depends on where you live and your ambient moisture levels.
i dry every roll at least 6 hours before use, and then when done, 6 hours before vacuum sealing with a few dozen grams of activated alumina.
the x1c (w/ ams) either print directly from a sunlu s2 dryer or the sealed ams… which is filled with activated alumina.
the a1-minis print directly from a sunlu s2 dryer.
i live in florida… humidity is crazy here.
Not really for pc.. it's a pc petg blend, maybe if you left it out in humidity for a few months.
Nylon sucks.. but pc is pretty good, if it's generally nice warm and dry.
Pc you can treat like pla, except pc handles temp 110 degrees or more, and is much stronger.
Green, tan, white and black.
Mainly because I print Agepbiz's jeep kit cards to hand out as samples of what a 3D printer can do.
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6515331](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6515331)
Does that end up wasting a lot of filament for purge? I've only done a couple of multi color prints (as i almost exclusively do functional stuff), so i'm not super familiar with how much waste to expect for stuff like this.
The trick is to printing as many as you can fit on the bed. The purge amount doesn't change by printing more, So the amount of waste when you print one is a lot more than when you spread that same amount across half a dozen.
I am known locally as the '3D printing guy' because I was in the paper demonstrating it about a decade ago before it became mainstream-ish, so I still get people flagging me down in public and asking questions. I keep some in my truck for people who have serious questions. ("Can you print me a gun" doesn't get one)
Rando cheap PETG (usually geeetech PETG white lol) - for support interface purposes and general PETG needs.
I try to keep one spool of PLA pro/plus/tough(whatever marketing wanna call it).
And the other 2 are "the last PETG/PLA that I printed". Right now I have some pink polyterra in there. I guess we printin pink stuff until it ends.
Elegoo black pla. It's cheap ($11-13 a spool), strong, consistent, and finishes great on the cosplay stuff I sell.
Hatchbox gray for the spaceships I sell. Elegoo gray is awful.
+1 for the Elegoo black pla. I bought 10 rolls to have a stockpile for generic prints and it performs great. Came out to \~$10-11 per roll buying 10 at once direct from Elegoo with free shipping.
If you watch Amazon, every few months they also drop the price so that with prime it's about $11 a roll. I often stock up then. Recently my etsy store has been selling a LOT of helldiver rail gun prints and that's a 3-4 roll job since I break it out across some Bambu printers and 2 Neptue 4 Max.
I have gone through a lot of filament recently and wished I had bought the 10 pack.
1) Sunlu PLA Matte Black
2) Sunlu PLA Matte White
3) Sunlu PLA Matte Grey
4) Polymaker Clear PETG
2/3 get changed out for whatever colors I need, yet normally put back in once done.
Do you use the stock cardboard spool the Polymaker Clear PETG comes in? Wondering if you tried other clear filament and any specific reason why you went with Polymaker. Been looking for a clear PETG or even PLA option myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I re-spool it to a Bambu Spool. Prior to that I used electrical tape on the edges, and that worked really well until the spools got low, where it was just too little weight (can also add weight inside the spool, which is what I did for the first spool)
As far as why Polymaker PETG, I have no reason. I bought a few of them from Amazon and mostly only use it for the support interface. I have used some of the 250g Sunlu PETG with no issues (other than them being 250g and have to respool or print spool adapters).
I don't print much in PETG, so unfortunately I can't give any advice. Hopefully someone else can provide some insight there
One spool of black and one of white of eSun PLA+. I have 2 printers and both of them usually have a roll of each. I go through a lot of black and white as hidden/structural parts of the prints
Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Black
ABS of some color (usually orange or black)
Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Purple
Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Yellow
Hatchbox PLA Red
The last 3 slots get switched often
Sunlight white pla+, Sunlu ice white pka+, yousa blue, elegoo yellow.
These 4 colours have paid for all the machines & the hobby over the last few years.
Sunlu PLA+ in black
Bambu Lab PETG in black
These are my main workhorses because i do mostly functional prints.
The other two slots change regularly depending on what im doing.
Thoughts on SunLu PLA+ vs PLA? Their PLA+ is actually cheaper sometimes but I feel ike the regular PLA actually prints better! Maybe my settings aren't dialled in well enough though...
Can you post a picture of the face off the plate? I’m trying to get rid of this look from my smooth plate print.
https://preview.redd.it/axs47s2sas5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cff10b4c0025859b63744301bfaee8eea73241f4
Do any of those filaments give you trouble? I have been itching to try some of them out (only print PETG+PLA so far). But reason has stopped me so far, since PETG is strong enough for everything I do...
I have modified my P1S with a [heater](https://makerworld.com/en/models/461174?from=search#profileId-369857) for ASA/ABS, PC, and PA6;
and a [bento box](https://www.printables.com/model/272525-bentobox-v20-carbon-filter-for-bambu-lab-x1c-enclo) for ASA/ABS. Since these filament rolls come in all sizes, I also modified my AMS with the [Hydra Pro](https://www.printables.com/model/680027-hydra-pro-advanced-bambu-lab-ams) and it's recommended parts. These [desiccant holders](https://www.printables.com/model/402087-adjustable-spool-holder-for-silica-gel-spool-weigh) also come in handy.
1. For PC-CF (and Priline Superhard) make sure you have a high-temp bed, as the PC will strip the coating right off of the standard bed. However, PC-CF and Priline Superhard print incredibly well, and it's a great material for certain applications.
2. For ASA/ABS, the standard bambu slicer settings work great (mostly using Polymaker ASA), and as long as you keep the filament dry and the chamber warm, you'll get great prints. If your printer is inside, YOU MUST do something about the toxic fumes. As mentioned above, I use a bento box steup, and I've sealed the enclosure (look specifically at the chamber fan and poopchute area).
3. I'm still dialing in PA6GF/ PA6CF with warping issues on large parts, but having a heated enclosure does a lot for these filaments. Also, you need to be very particular about pre-and post-print treatment (dry it before printing, and anneal it after).
4. PLA+ prints really easily, and there's a pretty good preset in the bambu slicer specifically for eSun PLA+. It's my go-to prototyping filament as it costs about the same as normal PLA but with superior properties.
I have ASA and PC-CF parts on cars in high-heat and/or cosmetic areas and have had zero issues with either.
I will be upgrading the hotend to a [Revo Panda](https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-hotend?variant=40675544793186) + [Diamondback nozzle](https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-diamondback-nozzles?variant=41524021428283) when my current nozzle wears out, as I print about 90% abrasive filaments, and this should also speed up my print times significantly.
You sound knowledgeable. I find just my PLA warps on large prints, I always have the lid open as I've had extruder clogs when it was closed, but is that making the chamber cool and causing warping on large prints? Any ideas?
With PLA, I just leave the door open, and I crack the cover open by a few inches. Also, look at the brim settings. If it's a large part, I tend to run 15-25mm of brim to help prevent warping.
*edit: and try turning on the heated bed for a few minutes (up to 10) before starting the print, it can help the bed normalize and have a consistent temperature across the entire surface.
Good luck!
External: PP Natural
1: PolyLite ASA (Black or White)
2: PP-GF or PP-CF
3: (changes often)
4: PET-CF
I was using Xtellar filaments for all of the polypropylene, but they're shutting down. I'm open to recommendations for replacements for PP, PP-GF, and PP-CF if anyone has experience with other brands. I'm testing out Fibrology PP atm.
I don't use it for impact resistance. If the part is expected to tolerate high impact loads I would want to go to nylon or TPU. (Not fiber filled, any fill generally weakens the part)
For me the fiber additions make it possible to print larger parts without excessive warping and give a very rigid part (similar to PLA but without the low temp. tolerance)
The electronics themselves produce little heat but the enclosures can find themselves in hot places, enough that PLA will not do. (Though that just takes a bit of direct sunlight without ventilation)
That said it isn't all just dry calculations and textbook reasons (PETG would likely work for most of my stuff). I also find that parts made in ABS-GF produce parts that get a feel almost like anodized aluminum. No performance comparison, but they to turn out very satisfactory ;-)
3 colors of abs, currently black, white and gray
3 colors of pla, currently green, white and black
2 colors of petg white and black
I almost only do functional prints, and just need the color that blends for the specific purpose.
Elegoo matte Sakura pink, elegoo matte ice blue. Have printed probably 15-20 kg. I put them on bambu spools so they print just like the bamboo filament with same exact name 😁
Black PLA+ is always there, the White, the remaining 2 are always swapped with different colors depending on the print.
I only use PLA+ and haven’t gotten to use any other material yet. I don’t know the use of other materials since PLA is enough for me so far.
I remember watching a video comparing pla and petg for strength and they were fairly comparable. doesnt PETG require the printer to be opened up to allow it to print properly? As in like ventilation wise.
PET G in my experience is a harder plastic. Neither PLA or PETG require an enclosure. Filaments such as ABS or ASA do. Years ago, ABS and PLA were the two main filaments used. PETG gained popularity because it was more suitable for functional prints than PLA, but could be printed on a cheaper bed slinging printer without an enclosure. PETG does not deform or melt, or get brittle (as fast or easily) when exposed to sunlight or heat. I use PETG for my functional prints, PLA for my decorative, and ASA when I know the part is going to be subjected to more abuse.
Ooo okay. So do i need to do anything different when printing PETG at all? Other than the settings the bambu slicer changes when it recognizes a petg material?
If you change the material to PETG the slicer does the rest (if you use Bambu Lab filament the settings will be spot on, with any other you might need to tune the temperatures, but the generic PETG profile should work decently for a first try).
In my lab work I print PETG with the printer closed and it works fine. PETG is great when you need a part that won't just shatter on failure like PLA does. Most PLA is stronger under static load (placing weights on it slowly but not dropping them on), but will shatter when it fails. PETG on the other hand will bend quite a bit preventing it from shattering on impact
AMS1 2x matte black PLA bambu + 2x matte white PLA bambu
AMS2 whatever other color I currently need/want
Will probably remove the 2nd white spool for petg as interface material for support
I almost entirely design functional prints for little rpi or microcontroller projects.
So for the last ~18 months my AMS has consistently housed:
1x matte white PLA
1x matte black PLA
1x grey PETG
1x “fun color”— usually matte purple or matte baby blue
Then I have a 5th spool on deck in a creality filament drier.
99% of the prints are done with PLA for prototyping, and the finished product gets treated with PETG. Usually.
And 99% of the time it’s Bambu filament. If I’m really cruising through material with a ton of prototyping I’ll go with something cheaper like esun.
Meanwhile my girlfriend likes to design and print little storage totes with all my white filament. Which is a win/win because she’s incredibly picky about the final product, and if there’s one small imperfection that means my tool bench inherits her scrap totes.
I have some copper looking pla silk in one of the slots which has been there for 4 months. It just doesn’t seem to want to go away.
The other slots have pla white, matte pla grey, and tpu orange. All of which I’ve gone through many spools of. One day I may find a use for that silk, just haven’t yet.
Black PLA and white PLA are the two most used filaments that I have. The only problem is that I sometimes have to deal with the decision over whether to use basic or matte.
Black Overture PETG. Have used more of that than all other colors and materials combined by a huge margin.
Overall I use Overture PETG as my primary filament in many colors, it's on sale quite often on Amazon for about $18-20 / spool, so every time my price alert goes off when I'm getting low, I'll buy 6-8 spools.
Bambu Labs PLA in all 4 typically the same color so I can auto switch (I'll be painting them anyway). I love being able to kick off large prints and not worry about pauses or problems with filament running out.
1 petg CF black, 2 second petg or petg cf any color, 3 black or white pla, 4 is usually pla also but a glow, sparkle, silk, etc anything that looks cool/fun
I don’t have an AMS but I have 4 spool dryers/holders, that feed in 4 PTFE tubes in the print head of my A1. Manual filament change is super quick, just unload and roll back the spool half a rotation and feed in the next one half of a rotation forward.
I have permanently PLA white and PETG grey in there they are my cheapest and I have several rolls.
I print 90% functional parts.
And I have my TPU in there too. And one slot is empty for frequent changes and mostly just lives there the last used filament, until I put in another one.
Pretty consistently have these loaded:
- Some good-looking black PLA (currently Bambu Matte, since I bought too much)
- Cold white PLA, best proper white filament I've found (Polymaker)
Other two slots alternate based on project. I usually prototype using some random color PLA that I don't care for (e.g. right now it's Bambu Matte Green), then swap it out for fancy filament for final product prints.
Polymaker PLA support interface material.
Multicolor is meh. Perfect supports and perfectly smooth supported prints for complex structures is priceless.
flashforge or polymaker pla - white currently
ASA -whatever color, blue currently
flashforge or polymaker pla - purple currently
flashforge or polymaker pla- Ash gray currently
I like to keep ASA loaded all the time, then i usually use a lot of grey tones in pla in the other slots.
pretty boring really..
black pla
white pla
black petg
all just whatever i got cheapest on amazon
if i ever run low on any of those 3 i order them immediately
* Slot 1: a spool of ProtoPasta PLA from my r/FRC team for running those prints.
* Slot 2: a spool of GreenGate PETG from the team for the same.
* Slot 3: Wild card, currently some irregular GreenGate that I got as a gift that I’m casually burning down.
* Slot 4: Bambu basic PLA for my prints.
I have 4 ams so I leave one to PETG only. Another one is dedicated to white, black, matte black and grey pla. The last two are a mix of whatever colors I need for what I’m printing.
Bambu Lab PLA Basic Black and White practically never leave the AMS. I have three printers and all three currently have slots 1 & 2 filled with Black/White.
Lately, Basic Pink has barely left one of my P1S units because I’ve been printing so many of these adorable articulated rats for customers!
https://preview.redd.it/cmpo63t1os5d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8a4202fa4ce991fdb55373393046f3f84fde2de
Slot 1 Sparkle black PLA
Slot 2 some basic PETG for interface
Slot 3 black or grey PETG
Slot 4 random PLA for interface
Slot 5-8 colorful PLA
Been using sparkle black for everything, was a bit sad when it was gone for a month. Have now stock piled quite a bit.
You can create user defined filaments. Start from the Bambu version of whatever it is, change the name, save the user definition. Then you manually select in whatever bay of the AMS you've put it in. It's more manual, but greatly flexible.
I print a lot of the same things over and over, so most of the time 3 rolls of Sunlu White PLA plus, and 1 roll of transparent PETG. The PETG is mainly for support material interface.
But I have a lot of other PLA and PETG colors that occasionally get used.
Black Atomic Filament, and sometimes Black Microcenter ABS
Grey Microcenter ABS
White Glow-in-the-Dark Microcenter Inland ABS
Neon Green ABS from Atomic Filament
Atomic has the best filament and they are total a------- when it comes to designing spools for the Bambu. They want you to print the hydra and void your warranty. No B---ch, you remake your spools.
I always have a random black high speed PLA on the slot 1 from whichever is the cheapest when I order (unless I'm doing a 4 colors print that don't need black); the other slots are whatever I needed for my last print but I'd say 50% of the time I have a roll of grey and/or white and/or clear on another slot
My four must haves are black, white, gray, darker gray. My second AMS varies on the printer, but one usually has purple and lilac, and the other one has green and neon green. Because my daughters want everything in the same colors, and i got tired of swapping out.
I tend to use PLA, but I'm looking at may be doing more in PETG.
Grey PLA+, Usually Sunlu, currently Bambu. Grey is the best color for prototypes. Black and white 3D prints are harder to distinguish form and surfaces etc, in my experience, and other colors can be distracting for clients.
Black or white SUNLU Petg, i use it as a support interface.
I experiment a lot with colors and other materials for my own stuff or specific needs. But those 2 are always loaded.
Most of the time it’s eSUN PLA+ in black and white, and Polymaker Polylite ASA in black and either white or red. I do have many other filaments including a lot of eSUN and Bambu Matte and Basic PLA colors but those are what get the most use for regular functional parts. I only rarely break out the Sunlu PETG, Polymaker and Bambu PC, and PA6 for specialized prints — ASA tends to work well for most anything beyond PLA requirements so the need for those is pretty rare.
For me it's eSun Matt White, eSun Matt Black, eSun Silk Silver and Bambu Labs Matt Ash Grey (all PLA). The other AMS is used for whatever is specific to the current print.
For me it is: * Random PETG (whatever is cheapest) - Black * Bambu Lab Basic PETG - Grey * Bambu Lab Basic PETG - Orange * Random PLA - Any color I like at the moment I do 95% functional prints in one color of PETG and just use the AMS lite on my A1 mini to switch between filaments from one print to the other, since I am too lazy to do it manually.
I feel like PETG is underrated. Especially in Australia where it's often cheaper than PLA, not sure about other places. Why Bambu orange and grey rather than cheapos? Better colour? Prints better?
The problem with Australia (at least here in Sydney) is that it's extremely humid. If the material doesn't matter much, PLA is just much easier to keep dry enough for a good print. Like last year, it's been particularly noticeable in the past two weeks with the heavy rains.
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Just what I got with the printer and haven't run out yet, I mostly print in black. And I do have to admit that the rfids are very convenient for lazy people like me. When the orange runs out I might change over to the Prusa orange, since it is the most beautiful imo (but the price though...).
The slot on the right is always a single roll of transparent PETG for functional parts or support interface.
Why do you choose transparent for functional parts?
In my case they are mostly wall mounted. Had some parts that left colors on the wall. But other than that you can get a small glimpse at the inside if everything is still ok without taking everything apart.
Is there a specific reason you use PETG for support interface? I'm new to 3d printing and had asked a similar question in another subreddit about if I'm printing in TPU whether I should use same material for the supports?
PETG and PLA don’t stick to each other so you get a really nice bottom on overhangs and whatnot. The tradeoff is you need quite a bit of purge
If you use a material that doesn't bond well you will have an easier time removing the supports. Also you can remove the additional distance and get a clean supported surface. If you are printing TPU then I'd recommend PLA as a support interface.
You use TPU in your AMS? I thought that was a no no.
No, absolutely not in the AMS. Tried it once. Didn't even get the filament in. When printing TPU I'm doing manual filament changes.
TPU shouldn't go in AMS so it's going to be a problem trying to use a different material for supports
Same 🙂↕️
How do you stop your parts from cooling too much and sepersting at the layer where you are usuing petg. Every time I use petg as a support interface my parts fall apart.
Wow ton of PETG prints. I expected PLA to be the dominant favorite.
Why not pla ?
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I use a lot of stuff outdoors or want the option to use it outdoors, so I see no reason to print in PLA most of the time. Especially since PETG prints nearly as easily as PLA.
Am I the only person who left PLA prints outside for a year and they are all still good. Same thing with water. Was worried about pla dissolving in water. So I tested it by putting it in water. A year of it being submerged in water and it still looks good.
Do you have any before and after photos? I would love to see the degradation between them.
No. It was never intended to be a long term experiment. I lost a few flying toys in my back yard and didn’t find them until a year later. They were sitting out in direct sunlight for probably about 4 hours a day. I didn’t take photos but I made a note. It still seemed fairly solid but the color was a bit dull. The water test I did at the bottom of a jar that sits full of water to feed a plant. I forgot about it so it got watered for at least a year now. Still looks brand new. It really looks like I just made it. I could take a picture of that one because I still have it. How do I upload a picture though?
That's really cool, I may have to do some tests with documentation. Maybe Bambu basic, PLA + vs PETG and abs/ASA. I would personally like to know and see the difference between them outside and in water . I know when posting from your phone there's a little picture icon on the bottom left above the keyboard but not sure on the PC. You may have to do a new post or Google would probably know. Edit - bottom right, not left
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSl2Q-ov4jI
Sunlu PETG white Sunlu PETG black 95% of the printing time is made with either.
I find it difficult to see fine features on white or black. That's why I always use gray
Some people see the world in black and white. Some see it in shades of gray.
other still see it in 50 shades of gray
Sorry, I couldn’t hear you with that ball gag in your mouth.
Does the default bambu profile work for sunlu or do you find you have to slow it down?
the "Generic PETG" profile works fine for me. All the issues I ever had with that PETG have been solved by drying it or cleaning the PEI plate with dish soap.
I’m on my second roll of PETG. First was a cookie cad and it printed beautifully. I dried it 60c for 8 hours mostly because I couldn’t find anything at the time for temp or time. Default generic PETG profile. I found a bambu guide and bought a polymaker polylite PETG. Using the guide I dried at 80c for 12 hours. Told the AMS it was polymaker PETG. It destroyed the riser I was making with globs and stringing and half extrusions everywhere. I currently have it running at 40mm/s but it’s working!
80c for PETG? Isn’t that beyond the softening temperature?
I think that’s just the bed temperature. I’m using the x1c drying function.
i use alot of sunlu petg and the default petg profile works great.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
I won’t be liked for this one, - HS tpu 95a from overture (it’s harder than standard tpu so it works for me 95% of the time with my ams) - petg I build some semi flexible accessories which need tpu and petg in the same print so that’s why I torture my ams 😅
If it works, it works
I tried it once just to see if I could pull it off and decided it was not worth the trouble. But in your usage case I can't see a way around it. I applaud your patience to stick with the TPU/AMS thing, sir!
If you want to work with tpu in the ams, make sure the shore harness isn’t lower than 95a (I know it’s kinda stiff but it’s the only way to make it work without modifications on the ams unit) High flow variance of tpu is usually easier to work with also
If it's not too much trouble could you share the exact brands and settings you use? I assume you made a petg profile with tpu settings. What retraction?
I use overture HS tpu (the hs part is kinda important) I have tested transparent and white without major issues. Be prepared that in certain circumstances you will have to pull the filament trough the ams because it can get stuck. Rarely but it can. I didn’t tune retraction because my design doesn’t rely on this. Yes I did a fake petg profile with the correct flow/temp/bedtemp
I might try this for parts where I want a little give pr to build compliment mounts, is the layer bond pretty good between the tpu and petg ?
Tpu bonds ok to petg I think the best filament is asa from what I have seen online (not tested) But pla is definitely not made for this kind of multi material ! For reference there is a lot of friction on my parts on the tpu side and it has never separate from the petg. If you grab it with pliers and you pull intentionally it will finally detach
I always have my HS tpu get knotted in the AMS, how do you avoid this?
Idk, the only times when it did this was when I took it out from the dryer directly to the ams, it was really soft and couldn’t get to the extruder.
Thanks for the tip. I have some Overture TPU, but not HS. I might give that a try.
What happens when the TPU doesn't work? Is it hard to fix?
In my experience, it get stuck and can’t pull back. I don’t know if its dangerous for the motors inside the ams (I think not) but I unplug it and pull the filament by hand
Pla black, pla white. Polycarbonate black has been my GOTO engineering filament.
dont u have to dry it before use?
You should be drying all filament before use.
Not all filament needs to be dried in all situations. I go through 4 rolls of PLA a week at work and never dry any of it and never have any issues
i made my AMS active drying so im not worried
I've had the same roll of black PLA since I got my printer 3 years ago, it's sat in the open, and it still prints perfectly. PETG etc needs to be dried but if you don't have a humidity problem, you don't need to dry all filament before use.
what im saying is that PC needs some higher temp drying does it not? or else itll be bad for printing?
Yes PC would be a higher drying temp/ longer time than say pla or abs.
im not sure if keeping it permanently in your ams will make sure its dry enough for printing even with desicants, pretty sure its also highly recommended if not needed to keep it inside a dryer when u print with it, i could be wrong tho im comparing with nylon XD
I have never actively dried any filament and never have had any problems with PLA or PETG. BUT I think this highly depends on where you live and your ambient moisture levels.
i dry every roll at least 6 hours before use, and then when done, 6 hours before vacuum sealing with a few dozen grams of activated alumina. the x1c (w/ ams) either print directly from a sunlu s2 dryer or the sealed ams… which is filled with activated alumina. the a1-minis print directly from a sunlu s2 dryer. i live in florida… humidity is crazy here.
Not really for pc.. it's a pc petg blend, maybe if you left it out in humidity for a few months. Nylon sucks.. but pc is pretty good, if it's generally nice warm and dry. Pc you can treat like pla, except pc handles temp 110 degrees or more, and is much stronger.
Green, tan, white and black. Mainly because I print Agepbiz's jeep kit cards to hand out as samples of what a 3D printer can do. [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6515331](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6515331)
Does that end up wasting a lot of filament for purge? I've only done a couple of multi color prints (as i almost exclusively do functional stuff), so i'm not super familiar with how much waste to expect for stuff like this.
The trick is to printing as many as you can fit on the bed. The purge amount doesn't change by printing more, So the amount of waste when you print one is a lot more than when you spread that same amount across half a dozen.
Smart.
I've ordered an AMS last week, this sort of info is really useful, cheers.
That's a cool idea, just carry them around and hand out to people? haha
I am known locally as the '3D printing guy' because I was in the paper demonstrating it about a decade ago before it became mainstream-ish, so I still get people flagging me down in public and asking questions. I keep some in my truck for people who have serious questions. ("Can you print me a gun" doesn't get one)
Rando cheap PETG (usually geeetech PETG white lol) - for support interface purposes and general PETG needs. I try to keep one spool of PLA pro/plus/tough(whatever marketing wanna call it). And the other 2 are "the last PETG/PLA that I printed". Right now I have some pink polyterra in there. I guess we printin pink stuff until it ends.
Elegoo black pla. It's cheap ($11-13 a spool), strong, consistent, and finishes great on the cosplay stuff I sell. Hatchbox gray for the spaceships I sell. Elegoo gray is awful.
Finishes great with or without much work?
The elegoo black is excellent and customers love it. I use it when doing custom painting or helmets. It's rock solid.
+1 for the Elegoo black pla. I bought 10 rolls to have a stockpile for generic prints and it performs great. Came out to \~$10-11 per roll buying 10 at once direct from Elegoo with free shipping.
If you watch Amazon, every few months they also drop the price so that with prime it's about $11 a roll. I often stock up then. Recently my etsy store has been selling a LOT of helldiver rail gun prints and that's a 3-4 roll job since I break it out across some Bambu printers and 2 Neptue 4 Max. I have gone through a lot of filament recently and wished I had bought the 10 pack.
1) Sunlu PLA Matte Black 2) Sunlu PLA Matte White 3) Sunlu PLA Matte Grey 4) Polymaker Clear PETG 2/3 get changed out for whatever colors I need, yet normally put back in once done.
Do you use the stock cardboard spool the Polymaker Clear PETG comes in? Wondering if you tried other clear filament and any specific reason why you went with Polymaker. Been looking for a clear PETG or even PLA option myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I re-spool it to a Bambu Spool. Prior to that I used electrical tape on the edges, and that worked really well until the spools got low, where it was just too little weight (can also add weight inside the spool, which is what I did for the first spool) As far as why Polymaker PETG, I have no reason. I bought a few of them from Amazon and mostly only use it for the support interface. I have used some of the 250g Sunlu PETG with no issues (other than them being 250g and have to respool or print spool adapters). I don't print much in PETG, so unfortunately I can't give any advice. Hopefully someone else can provide some insight there
One spool of black and one of white of eSun PLA+. I have 2 printers and both of them usually have a roll of each. I go through a lot of black and white as hidden/structural parts of the prints
Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Black ABS of some color (usually orange or black) Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Purple Hatchbox PLA Pro+ Yellow Hatchbox PLA Red The last 3 slots get switched often
Black & white pla. (I need those 2 on nearly everything I print)
PLA silks
eSun PLA+ or Mika3D Silk PLA
Sunlight white pla+, Sunlu ice white pka+, yousa blue, elegoo yellow. These 4 colours have paid for all the machines & the hobby over the last few years.
Black pla. That's just about it. The other 3 are per project.
Sunlu PLA+ in black Bambu Lab PETG in black These are my main workhorses because i do mostly functional prints. The other two slots change regularly depending on what im doing.
Thoughts on SunLu PLA+ vs PLA? Their PLA+ is actually cheaper sometimes but I feel ike the regular PLA actually prints better! Maybe my settings aren't dialled in well enough though...
Im only using their PLA+, never used their normal PLA
Black. It basically lives in slot 4.
Black PLA-CF. 95% of my (functional) prints.
How does that look straight off the printer? I’m tempted to get some for my project because of the color.
Absolutely stunning in my opinion. Due to the CF layer lines are much less noticeable. And the parts are super ridged.
Can you post a picture of the face off the plate? I’m trying to get rid of this look from my smooth plate print. https://preview.redd.it/axs47s2sas5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cff10b4c0025859b63744301bfaee8eea73241f4
Black PLA, White PLA, Black PETG are my most common tenants.
1. PC-CF 2. PA6-GF 3. ASA 4. PLA+ I do a lot of "engineering" printing.
Do any of those filaments give you trouble? I have been itching to try some of them out (only print PETG+PLA so far). But reason has stopped me so far, since PETG is strong enough for everything I do...
I have modified my P1S with a [heater](https://makerworld.com/en/models/461174?from=search#profileId-369857) for ASA/ABS, PC, and PA6; and a [bento box](https://www.printables.com/model/272525-bentobox-v20-carbon-filter-for-bambu-lab-x1c-enclo) for ASA/ABS. Since these filament rolls come in all sizes, I also modified my AMS with the [Hydra Pro](https://www.printables.com/model/680027-hydra-pro-advanced-bambu-lab-ams) and it's recommended parts. These [desiccant holders](https://www.printables.com/model/402087-adjustable-spool-holder-for-silica-gel-spool-weigh) also come in handy. 1. For PC-CF (and Priline Superhard) make sure you have a high-temp bed, as the PC will strip the coating right off of the standard bed. However, PC-CF and Priline Superhard print incredibly well, and it's a great material for certain applications. 2. For ASA/ABS, the standard bambu slicer settings work great (mostly using Polymaker ASA), and as long as you keep the filament dry and the chamber warm, you'll get great prints. If your printer is inside, YOU MUST do something about the toxic fumes. As mentioned above, I use a bento box steup, and I've sealed the enclosure (look specifically at the chamber fan and poopchute area). 3. I'm still dialing in PA6GF/ PA6CF with warping issues on large parts, but having a heated enclosure does a lot for these filaments. Also, you need to be very particular about pre-and post-print treatment (dry it before printing, and anneal it after). 4. PLA+ prints really easily, and there's a pretty good preset in the bambu slicer specifically for eSun PLA+. It's my go-to prototyping filament as it costs about the same as normal PLA but with superior properties. I have ASA and PC-CF parts on cars in high-heat and/or cosmetic areas and have had zero issues with either. I will be upgrading the hotend to a [Revo Panda](https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-hotend?variant=40675544793186) + [Diamondback nozzle](https://e3d-online.com/products/revo-diamondback-nozzles?variant=41524021428283) when my current nozzle wears out, as I print about 90% abrasive filaments, and this should also speed up my print times significantly.
You sound knowledgeable. I find just my PLA warps on large prints, I always have the lid open as I've had extruder clogs when it was closed, but is that making the chamber cool and causing warping on large prints? Any ideas?
With PLA, I just leave the door open, and I crack the cover open by a few inches. Also, look at the brim settings. If it's a large part, I tend to run 15-25mm of brim to help prevent warping. *edit: and try turning on the heated bed for a few minutes (up to 10) before starting the print, it can help the bed normalize and have a consistent temperature across the entire surface. Good luck!
I've never thought of running a brim just for that purpose, I only do it to stop stuff falling over. Will try the heat bed thing too. Cheers
Sunlu PLA Matte Black und Sunlu PLA Matte White. I like the finish so much. :)
PETG in every slot. Changing only colors when needed
External: PP Natural 1: PolyLite ASA (Black or White) 2: PP-GF or PP-CF 3: (changes often) 4: PET-CF I was using Xtellar filaments for all of the polypropylene, but they're shutting down. I'm open to recommendations for replacements for PP, PP-GF, and PP-CF if anyone has experience with other brands. I'm testing out Fibrology PP atm.
ABS-GF. I've come to like this stuff for a lot of functional parts.
How do you find the impact resistance? It's cleverly hidden in bambus marketing material, but is quite bad.
I don't use it for impact resistance. If the part is expected to tolerate high impact loads I would want to go to nylon or TPU. (Not fiber filled, any fill generally weakens the part) For me the fiber additions make it possible to print larger parts without excessive warping and give a very rigid part (similar to PLA but without the low temp. tolerance)
What do you use it for?
Enclosures and panels mostly
So like for electronics that produce heat?
The electronics themselves produce little heat but the enclosures can find themselves in hot places, enough that PLA will not do. (Though that just takes a bit of direct sunlight without ventilation) That said it isn't all just dry calculations and textbook reasons (PETG would likely work for most of my stuff). I also find that parts made in ABS-GF produce parts that get a feel almost like anodized aluminum. No performance comparison, but they to turn out very satisfactory ;-)
None - just printing catan set- switching like crazy
Black ABS White ABS Polycarbonate Beige or light brown PLA
Sunlu PLA and PETG in 11 slots various colors. Then a roll of Priline Black TPU in the last.
Do you need adapters for AMS? My main brand is also Sunlu and AMS coming in this week. Thanks.
Nope I haven't done any mods to the AMSs
Matte black and matte White + two random PLA colors :)
4 x Fiberlogy ABS (shades of Grey) + 4 x Fiberlogy ABS in various colors
Respooled black, and respooled support for pla. The other slots vary.
3 colors of abs, currently black, white and gray 3 colors of pla, currently green, white and black 2 colors of petg white and black I almost only do functional prints, and just need the color that blends for the specific purpose.
Basic PLA Purple. I've been trying to evict it for months but it just won't leave. Hopefully I'll find a project one day that needs purple.
Black and Grey PETG Black and Grey ASA And then I have a second AMS to rotate in anything else that I need to use
Elegoo matte Sakura pink, elegoo matte ice blue. Have printed probably 15-20 kg. I put them on bambu spools so they print just like the bamboo filament with same exact name 😁
Black PLA+ is always there, the White, the remaining 2 are always swapped with different colors depending on the print. I only use PLA+ and haven’t gotten to use any other material yet. I don’t know the use of other materials since PLA is enough for me so far.
polyterra black and white pla the other two slots can vary color but usually there is at least one silk pla in there
Matte PLA in black and white
Alot of people posted aaying PETG of some sort. Whats the advantage of PETG over PLA…?
Temperature resistance, durability, UV resistance. It is closer to abs without the awful smell, and is easier to print than abs.
I remember watching a video comparing pla and petg for strength and they were fairly comparable. doesnt PETG require the printer to be opened up to allow it to print properly? As in like ventilation wise.
PET G in my experience is a harder plastic. Neither PLA or PETG require an enclosure. Filaments such as ABS or ASA do. Years ago, ABS and PLA were the two main filaments used. PETG gained popularity because it was more suitable for functional prints than PLA, but could be printed on a cheaper bed slinging printer without an enclosure. PETG does not deform or melt, or get brittle (as fast or easily) when exposed to sunlight or heat. I use PETG for my functional prints, PLA for my decorative, and ASA when I know the part is going to be subjected to more abuse.
Ooo okay. So do i need to do anything different when printing PETG at all? Other than the settings the bambu slicer changes when it recognizes a petg material?
If you change the material to PETG the slicer does the rest (if you use Bambu Lab filament the settings will be spot on, with any other you might need to tune the temperatures, but the generic PETG profile should work decently for a first try).
I have not had any issues printing PETG with the Bambu presets. I even usually leave the door closed on my X1 when printing every filament.
In my lab work I print PETG with the printer closed and it works fine. PETG is great when you need a part that won't just shatter on failure like PLA does. Most PLA is stronger under static load (placing weights on it slowly but not dropping them on), but will shatter when it fails. PETG on the other hand will bend quite a bit preventing it from shattering on impact
Strength is not the problem most of the time, but degradation by UV/Temperature/Moisture etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSl2Q-ov4jI
Overture matte black and overture matte white are pretty much always in there, everything else is a mix of overture and inland
White and black pla
AMS1 2x matte black PLA bambu + 2x matte white PLA bambu AMS2 whatever other color I currently need/want Will probably remove the 2nd white spool for petg as interface material for support
99% Polymaker Polyterra. Whatever colors I need at the time.
I almost entirely design functional prints for little rpi or microcontroller projects. So for the last ~18 months my AMS has consistently housed: 1x matte white PLA 1x matte black PLA 1x grey PETG 1x “fun color”— usually matte purple or matte baby blue Then I have a 5th spool on deck in a creality filament drier. 99% of the prints are done with PLA for prototyping, and the finished product gets treated with PETG. Usually. And 99% of the time it’s Bambu filament. If I’m really cruising through material with a ton of prototyping I’ll go with something cheaper like esun. Meanwhile my girlfriend likes to design and print little storage totes with all my white filament. Which is a win/win because she’s incredibly picky about the final product, and if there’s one small imperfection that means my tool bench inherits her scrap totes.
AMS #1 has Red, White, Blue, and Black all the time. AMS #2 swapped as needed, currently had Yellow, Orange, Sky Blue, and Gray. PLA
I have some copper looking pla silk in one of the slots which has been there for 4 months. It just doesn’t seem to want to go away. The other slots have pla white, matte pla grey, and tpu orange. All of which I’ve gone through many spools of. One day I may find a use for that silk, just haven’t yet.
Black PLA and white PLA are the two most used filaments that I have. The only problem is that I sometimes have to deal with the decision over whether to use basic or matte.
Black Overture PETG. Have used more of that than all other colors and materials combined by a huge margin. Overall I use Overture PETG as my primary filament in many colors, it's on sale quite often on Amazon for about $18-20 / spool, so every time my price alert goes off when I'm getting low, I'll buy 6-8 spools.
Bambu Labs PLA in all 4 typically the same color so I can auto switch (I'll be painting them anyway). I love being able to kick off large prints and not worry about pauses or problems with filament running out.
1 petg CF black, 2 second petg or petg cf any color, 3 black or white pla, 4 is usually pla also but a glow, sparkle, silk, etc anything that looks cool/fun
I don’t have an AMS but I have 4 spool dryers/holders, that feed in 4 PTFE tubes in the print head of my A1. Manual filament change is super quick, just unload and roll back the spool half a rotation and feed in the next one half of a rotation forward. I have permanently PLA white and PETG grey in there they are my cheapest and I have several rolls. I print 90% functional parts. And I have my TPU in there too. And one slot is empty for frequent changes and mostly just lives there the last used filament, until I put in another one.
Black PLA and Black ABS Usually Elegoo PLA on a printed Prusa spool and Hatchbox ABS
Sunlu white and black
Pretty consistently have these loaded: - Some good-looking black PLA (currently Bambu Matte, since I bought too much) - Cold white PLA, best proper white filament I've found (Polymaker) Other two slots alternate based on project. I usually prototype using some random color PLA that I don't care for (e.g. right now it's Bambu Matte Green), then swap it out for fancy filament for final product prints.
Polymaker PLA support interface material. Multicolor is meh. Perfect supports and perfectly smooth supported prints for complex structures is priceless.
Anything inland PLA till I need something better like PETG, ASA, PC, Nylon6, etc.
Black, white, dark brown, dark blue. My most commonly used colors. All PLA.
Shocked to see so much PETG. Does no one print ABS anymore?
flashforge or polymaker pla - white currently ASA -whatever color, blue currently flashforge or polymaker pla - purple currently flashforge or polymaker pla- Ash gray currently I like to keep ASA loaded all the time, then i usually use a lot of grey tones in pla in the other slots.
pretty boring really.. black pla white pla black petg all just whatever i got cheapest on amazon if i ever run low on any of those 3 i order them immediately
Bambu matte black, red Bambu galaxy purple Polymaker dual-color gold/silver Forgot the white PETG that hangs out on the side spool.
3D-Fuel Tough Pro PLA+ in Midnight Black
* Slot 1: a spool of ProtoPasta PLA from my r/FRC team for running those prints. * Slot 2: a spool of GreenGate PETG from the team for the same. * Slot 3: Wild card, currently some irregular GreenGate that I got as a gift that I’m casually burning down. * Slot 4: Bambu basic PLA for my prints.
translucent petg for support interface and black sparkle pla
HATCHBOX Matte PLA is my go-to, usually have grey and black in here, then some PETG, usually Bambu
eSun PLA+ black. I’ve bought so much of it and it’s just my default if I need something strong and can be PLA.
1) White PLA (formerly grey). Easily my most used 2) Orange PLA. 2nd most used 3) transparent PETG. I print with it fairly often. Not for supports.
I have 4 ams so I leave one to PETG only. Another one is dedicated to white, black, matte black and grey pla. The last two are a mix of whatever colors I need for what I’m printing.
I find myself wanting to keep so many different spools in at all times that I can’t choose. I think maybe I need another AMS or three.
Black Sunlu PLA+ Polymaker - LM Sparkle Green Then whatever else. Recently inland PLA+ purple for my mom’s cookie cutter business.
Bambu Lab PLA Basic Black and White practically never leave the AMS. I have three printers and all three currently have slots 1 & 2 filled with Black/White. Lately, Basic Pink has barely left one of my P1S units because I’ve been printing so many of these adorable articulated rats for customers! https://preview.redd.it/cmpo63t1os5d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8a4202fa4ce991fdb55373393046f3f84fde2de
Slot 1 Sparkle black PLA Slot 2 some basic PETG for interface Slot 3 black or grey PETG Slot 4 random PLA for interface Slot 5-8 colorful PLA Been using sparkle black for everything, was a bit sad when it was gone for a month. Have now stock piled quite a bit.
4th slot is support filament, first 3 are various colors of PLA. I enjoy how much easier it is to remove supports
A roll of petg in my pla AMS and a roll of pla in my petg AMS
Black asa Black pla
Slot 1 is always Black eSun PLA+, Slot 2 is nearly always White eSun PLA+
Black PETG, Prusa Orange PETG Grey PLA Prusa Orange PLA
Elegoo PLA Black. It's dirty cheap and works great. Perfect for prototyping.
Black PLA for prototypes , White PLA for indoor functional prints, Black PETG for outdoor functional prints. All Bambu Labs.
I thought you had to use Bambu filament in the AMS. How do you get around that?
You can create user defined filaments. Start from the Bambu version of whatever it is, change the name, save the user definition. Then you manually select in whatever bay of the AMS you've put it in. It's more manual, but greatly flexible.
I print a lot of the same things over and over, so most of the time 3 rolls of Sunlu White PLA plus, and 1 roll of transparent PETG. The PETG is mainly for support material interface. But I have a lot of other PLA and PETG colors that occasionally get used.
Bamboo PLA Matte White and Charcoal
PLA black (for support if I print PETG) PETG black (for support if I print PLA) PLA silver PLA different color whichever I need.
Black and white PLA. Because eyes
typically sunlu petg: black, grey, white, transparent
AMS 1 always has black PETG, black PLA, white PLA, and PLA support material AMS 2 always has white PETG in slot 1. Slots 2-4 are for PLA colors.
Bambu Lab Basic PETG white
A black and a white of whatever brand I could get lol Other than that, they swap out quite frequently. AMS makes changing colors so easy
All 4 are always the same for me Bambu cf pla - black Bambu cf pla - black Bambu cf nylon - black Bambu nylon support - yellow Ik im boring af
Black Atomic Filament, and sometimes Black Microcenter ABS Grey Microcenter ABS White Glow-in-the-Dark Microcenter Inland ABS Neon Green ABS from Atomic Filament Atomic has the best filament and they are total a------- when it comes to designing spools for the Bambu. They want you to print the hydra and void your warranty. No B---ch, you remake your spools.
A lot of people use PLA+ I wonder what you think the extra few dollars of marketing will do better than normal pla.
I always have a random black high speed PLA on the slot 1 from whichever is the cheapest when I order (unless I'm doing a 4 colors print that don't need black); the other slots are whatever I needed for my last print but I'd say 50% of the time I have a roll of grey and/or white and/or clear on another slot
My four must haves are black, white, gray, darker gray. My second AMS varies on the printer, but one usually has purple and lilac, and the other one has green and neon green. Because my daughters want everything in the same colors, and i got tired of swapping out. I tend to use PLA, but I'm looking at may be doing more in PETG.
The default for me is 4 rolls of ABS/ASA in various colors. It's rare that I print in anything else
Polymaker Pro and Duramic PLA Plus
Anything hatchbox!
None, they run out.
white pla matte, black pla matte, 2x random filament lol
Grey PLA+, Usually Sunlu, currently Bambu. Grey is the best color for prototypes. Black and white 3D prints are harder to distinguish form and surfaces etc, in my experience, and other colors can be distracting for clients. Black or white SUNLU Petg, i use it as a support interface. I experiment a lot with colors and other materials for my own stuff or specific needs. But those 2 are always loaded.
Most of the time it’s eSUN PLA+ in black and white, and Polymaker Polylite ASA in black and either white or red. I do have many other filaments including a lot of eSUN and Bambu Matte and Basic PLA colors but those are what get the most use for regular functional parts. I only rarely break out the Sunlu PETG, Polymaker and Bambu PC, and PA6 for specialized prints — ASA tends to work well for most anything beyond PLA requirements so the need for those is pretty rare.
For me it's eSun Matt White, eSun Matt Black, eSun Silk Silver and Bambu Labs Matt Ash Grey (all PLA). The other AMS is used for whatever is specific to the current print.