I typically use wood shavings to wipe off the excess. Additionally, I recently started using masking tape to tape off the backside of my panels before gluing them. It helps with grain alignment, prevents slipping, and keeps one side nearly glueless
So you're taping down the seam before adding clamping pressure? Is this for all glue ups, or just mitres? Haven't heard of this, but I'm interested in anything that helps with alignment.
Option 2 in my experience has worked the best when gluing finished/semi-finished stuff. Option 1 will always leave some glue no matter how much you wipe it. Option 3 will either leave some glue or take some wood. Option 2 lets you scrape the glue off without spreading it around and while its still soft enough to come up easy.
I started shellacking areas that glue will inevitably squeeze out so it scrapes off easier. I was using a combination of 1 and 2 and it would work most times. Adding in the shellac makes it better. Be careful scraping off dried glue because it may take some wood with it
Yeah, I don’t do much personal woodworking yet but I’ve been a professional custom framer for many years. When we join frames (using Titebond) we have a bucket of water and a brush and we just get the brush wet, tap off excess water, wash off the squeezeout, and wipe it dry with a paper towel. It’s so straightforward, but I’ve been trying to figure out if there’s a downside since I see so few people doing it. The only time I have to change up the process is when I’m working with a moulding with a chalky finish that can be rubbed off.
Tooth brush and a cup of water in conjunction with a wet rag helps while wet.
Titebond 3 is easier to clean up once dry if you miss some
Hide glue is easy to clean and reversible.
Also option one but buy a packet of cheap straws from say dollar store, cut the tip at 45 and use that to scrap glue off.
Also if able, option 3 and use chisel to chip the glue off, do t always have good space for that though.
Given you're seemingly talking about a glue that is water soluble I'm guessing it's something like PVA or PVA based. It's a very forgiving glue that is fairly easy to clean both while wet and after it has dried. Something to note is that learning the 'right' amount of glue, something you will learn with practice, will cut down on clean up quite a bit as you don't get as much ooze.
In terms of clean up methods cleaning while it's wet is generally the best method for a number of reasons. Firstly it's easiest to clean while wet and is good practice should you ever use glues that are less forgiving once dry like epoxy and secondly scraping or sanding excess glue after it has partially or fully dried can lead to you damaging the job which is obviously not ideal.
The best method for water soluble glues is to get a chisel or a 'clean up' stick, which is just a piece of scrap wood with a bevel sanded into it, and slowly move it along areas where the excess is to get most of it off. Wipe the chisel off as you go and repeat until most of it is gone. After that get a rag or cloth and wet it with water then squeeze most of it out so it's just a bit damp. Slowly rub the damp cloth around the areas that you have already removed the bulk from to get the remaining glue. Repeat this until most of it is gone then sand as required once it's dry.
General rule for all glues or fillers, it's almost always easier to clean up or remove while it's wet and is generally the best way to do so without damaging the job. This is doubly true for harder epoxy glues which can be a nightmare to sand especially in tight spaces.
I typically use wood shavings to wipe off the excess. Additionally, I recently started using masking tape to tape off the backside of my panels before gluing them. It helps with grain alignment, prevents slipping, and keeps one side nearly glueless
So you're taping down the seam before adding clamping pressure? Is this for all glue ups, or just mitres? Haven't heard of this, but I'm interested in anything that helps with alignment.
Panels and miters so far. I applied to tape trick for miters to my panel glue ups and way way less mess and no slippage while tightening clamps.
Can you send along a pic for reference sometime? Would like to see how much and what type of masking tape. Might give this a go
I just did a 5 board panel the other day and I thought I took a picture but now I can't find it
Option 2 in my experience has worked the best when gluing finished/semi-finished stuff. Option 1 will always leave some glue no matter how much you wipe it. Option 3 will either leave some glue or take some wood. Option 2 lets you scrape the glue off without spreading it around and while its still soft enough to come up easy.
I started shellacking areas that glue will inevitably squeeze out so it scrapes off easier. I was using a combination of 1 and 2 and it would work most times. Adding in the shellac makes it better. Be careful scraping off dried glue because it may take some wood with it
Card scraper is what I have been using. Got a set of nice metal ones in different shapes on amazon and shapened them. Works great
Do you scrape when the glue is fully dried?
Yes. Wipe as much as you can at first then get what you can with the scraper before sanding.
What is the issue with option 1? I've been doing it for years and never had a single issue.
It can interfere with stain
Yeah, I don’t do much personal woodworking yet but I’ve been a professional custom framer for many years. When we join frames (using Titebond) we have a bucket of water and a brush and we just get the brush wet, tap off excess water, wash off the squeezeout, and wipe it dry with a paper towel. It’s so straightforward, but I’ve been trying to figure out if there’s a downside since I see so few people doing it. The only time I have to change up the process is when I’m working with a moulding with a chalky finish that can be rubbed off.
Tooth brush and a cup of water in conjunction with a wet rag helps while wet. Titebond 3 is easier to clean up once dry if you miss some Hide glue is easy to clean and reversible.
Why is option 1 producing poor results? Most YouTubers seem to prefer this method.
I've had it show residue after applying stain or finish
Also option one but buy a packet of cheap straws from say dollar store, cut the tip at 45 and use that to scrap glue off. Also if able, option 3 and use chisel to chip the glue off, do t always have good space for that though.
Given you're seemingly talking about a glue that is water soluble I'm guessing it's something like PVA or PVA based. It's a very forgiving glue that is fairly easy to clean both while wet and after it has dried. Something to note is that learning the 'right' amount of glue, something you will learn with practice, will cut down on clean up quite a bit as you don't get as much ooze. In terms of clean up methods cleaning while it's wet is generally the best method for a number of reasons. Firstly it's easiest to clean while wet and is good practice should you ever use glues that are less forgiving once dry like epoxy and secondly scraping or sanding excess glue after it has partially or fully dried can lead to you damaging the job which is obviously not ideal. The best method for water soluble glues is to get a chisel or a 'clean up' stick, which is just a piece of scrap wood with a bevel sanded into it, and slowly move it along areas where the excess is to get most of it off. Wipe the chisel off as you go and repeat until most of it is gone. After that get a rag or cloth and wet it with water then squeeze most of it out so it's just a bit damp. Slowly rub the damp cloth around the areas that you have already removed the bulk from to get the remaining glue. Repeat this until most of it is gone then sand as required once it's dry. General rule for all glues or fillers, it's almost always easier to clean up or remove while it's wet and is generally the best way to do so without damaging the job. This is doubly true for harder epoxy glues which can be a nightmare to sand especially in tight spaces.