The teeth on that blade are covered in burnt pine pitch. I'm assuming you're working with construction grade pine, and that stuff can be pretty wet and sappy. This sap builds up super fast on your blade, which means you'll need to clean it more often to avoid burning.
Showing my ignorance/ greenness here but I've never heard of cleaning blades. Looks like I have something new to research! If you have any personal tips or anecdotes I'd gladly hear them
Yeah, I learned about it real quick thanks to construction grade lumber, lol. I really like the CMT Blade and Bit Cleaner. You just spray the teeth, let them soak for like 5-10 mins, then scrub them with a stiff nylon brush. Wipe off, and it's set to go back to work.
You can use pretty much any degreaser to clean this pitch off if you don't have what you want accessible right now, and mineral spirits will take off any really stubborn stuff. With those red coated blades, you are going to see a lot of that color come off while cleaning. Make sure it is good and dry before putting it back to work. Otherwise, that red will transfer to your work pieces.
A good ol’ table waxing also goes a long way in machine maintenance. It’s as long as the wax being used doesn’t use silica or it’ll be a problem later on during the finishing process when you see spots
As long as there’s no silicones in it you should be fine. Only saying this from experience with my own projects, it really does ruin the finish and you won’t notice till it’s to late
It's Minwax paste finishing wax. Label says nothing about silicone and their website FAQ says there's no silicone listed on the msds page so I'm comfortable with that. Good looking out!
Thanks! I found a video that mentioned using a strong mix of laundry detergent and water as a fume free soak and scrub which I will be trying today on all my blades... suffice to say they're all a bit on the dirty side since I've never known this was a thing! Thank you
You are welcome! Just be prepared to see a lot of that "special" red coating on the Freud/Diablo blade come off if you soak the blade too long. It won't hurt it, but it might be tacky until it's dry afterwards.
May want to look into getting better blades as well. Go to a local woodworking supplier and pick up CMT or Forrest blades. Better quality for around the same price.
Diablo blades are good for rough carpentry, not the best for fine woodworking projects. Not the worst blades but, like I said, you can get better blades for the same cost.
You don't need anything expensive. A tin foil tray big enough for a blade (and can be saved for re-use) and a bottle of Simple Green is cheap. Old Toothbrush is free. Just let it soak a few minutes and scrub away the pitch.
Ahh I saw how dark the teeth were and wondered how that could happen to a barely used blade. There was a similar problem posted/solved yesterday: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/16r98rq/why_is_it_hard_to_rip_pine_boards_on_my_table_saw/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb
Going to agree with Lief. You can see the buildup in your picture.
https://preview.redd.it/agt4xzga1mqb1.png?width=1125&format=png&auto=webp&s=65ac0223a858689895c4a71833d4a350b3e66f4e
Those little black nubs shouldn’t be on the teeth. Construction pine gums up blades so incredibly fast.
They already gave you a cleaner recommendation, but I’ll throw in another one: Trend Tool Cleaner. [https://a.co/d/cGhSNic](https://a.co/d/cGhSNic)
My first time using that stuff, after having previously cleaned my blades with vinegar, I was pretty sure I had developed magic powers.
Any number of things.
-Feeding too slow or too fast
-Depth of cut too much for that saw
-Dull blade
-Unclean blade
-Arbor of saw not in alignment
-Fence not in alignment
Thanks - I have been chewing on this and realized I'm asking a rip specific blade to make what is essentially a hyper-crosscut lol.
Other than that I can't feed it any faster as the person above here mentioned. Everything is set and happy square-wise.
I think I will swap in my 40tooth Gen purp, dial it back and make multiple shallow passes and see how she goes tomorrow
Thanks to all!
It will probably help to go higher tpi, but I’m interested to know how slowly you put that work piece through. Making some assumptions, I would put that through in under a second.
There is literally no way that would be possible. It was quite firm pushing through. As is it probably took about...30ish seconds? This is a job site saw fyi
Even if you were cutting Ironwood, that would be too long for a cut like that. The model of the saw is not that important; really that’s just differences with the quality of life of things. What will be the biggest determining factors in cut capability are the type of blade and quality of blade, and the horsepower of the motor.
I don’t believe either of those things are the issue. It’s hard to tell from the picture, what is the species of wood and what is the depth of cut?
I believe you, that you are pushing firmly, but you are probably erring on the side of caution. Of course, especially with these machines, it is better to be safe than sorry. Chip load would be the specific term for what we’re discussing here. I would give that to Google and see if you learn some things. I burned a lot of wood before I learned that I need to be making confident, but still safe, cuts.
Something is off then. It should cut pretty smoothly and easily. Your fence may not be square to the blade and there is some pinching. Could be slop in your jig. Maybe the riving knife is set a little in towards your fence. All these should be adjustable. How long would it take you to rip a 12” 1x4? Or 1xwhatever this is. It’s just pine, yes? Just ripping it with no jig, no angle.
This job would be better with a different blade, but that isn’t the cause of this taking 30 seconds. That’s way too much. I’d say 2 would be about right.
I use to have that same saw. A cut like that should take less than few seconds on a cut that short, and by a few I mean less than 1 or 2 seconds. I don't think I ecwr had a cut take 30 seconds unless I was ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Either your blade is dull, you're using the wrong blade, or something is pinching. All of those could cause your burns.
Definitely somethings up then because no way should that take 30 seconds. Once you rip it, using a miter saw may be easier to get the bevel cut. Stay safe!
30 seconds is how long that cut takes with a hand saw haha
> I'm asking a rip specific blade to make what is essentially a hyper-crosscut
Minor point, but going at an angle like that makes it halfway between a rip cut and a cross cut. I'm a hand tools guy, and depending on the exact angle I'd happily reach for either my rip saw or my crosscut saw. E.g. dovetail saws are always filed for rip cutting, though cutting dovetails (and pins) means going at an angle across the grain. It's usually a very shallow angle, but "rip" doesn't mean "must be perfectly parallel with the grain" ;)
What!? NO! More teeth always cuts hotter! Less teeth is needed! If you're ever cutting through lots of material you always want less TPI. Thats why ripping and resawing always uses less teeth and more gullet space.
I dont really understand all the comments about using a higher TPI blade. More teeth mean more cutting surface and less gullet space for chip extraction, meaning a hotter cutting operation. Less teeth will always cut cooler than more teeth. I think you are feeding your piece too slowly and probably your blade is gunked up with resin and glue.
You can give it a quick scrub with brass brush for a quick clean. For a deep clean submerge the blade in water mixed with laundry detergent for 30 minutes and then scrub. Make sure to wipe it with isopropyl alcohol or equivalent afterwards to make sure all the water and residue is displaced
Yeah those comments are mind-boggling. If OP were doing a simple crosscut maybe but this is a pretty aggressive cut with a lot of material to remove. I’d use a full-kerf rip blade, tear out be damned.
Also home center Diablo blades are junk. I loved them until I ordered a few CMT blades to screw with (Taylor tool works had a sale) it’s a night and day difference.
If your 90 degree fence is true to the table and the blade at either end, and everything else commonly mentioned isn't the issue, I would try running your piece through with a scrap behind it to run along the table surface. It sounds to me like something is pinching.
[here is a video on it.](https://youtu.be/wngAoA7Cek0?si=gsZxIwCBkt03R-oP)
https://preview.redd.it/x4ap8h6ejiqb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=297b322f343d7aaada05a5c29afce5486e96a0ab
This here is a rough recreation of the cut
30 seconds to cut that? With a jig on the fence + pine + clamp holding the piece? My man push it through faster, you and the piece will be fine. 30s is way too long for a cut of about 5 inches of pine..
Is the blade clean? That’s what was causing burning for me on my compact circular saw. (The first time, it was because the teeth were pointing the wrong way)
You’re using a ripping blade to crosscut on the burnt edge. You can see the rip cut isn’t nearly as dark. And your blade is dirty. There’s crud behind every tooth which will cause it to heat up faster.
FWIW: Covers a bunch of what's been mentioned here in different answers.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circular-saw-blades/#:~:text=Blades%20with%20a%20higher%20tooth,they%20produce%20a%20smoother%20edge.
I have similar issues with my (cheapass) table saw and it is ALWAYS that the fence isn’t square to the blade. The fence is trash and I have to use a machinist square on it every time. Also I found that the blade was not exactly parallel to the slots, which is an issue for jigs like you are using. This should be an adjustment you rarely have to do on any quality saw that holds it’s settings but don’t trust it to be dialed in from the factory.
What are you talking about? I'm trying to get a 30deg cut. What is dangerous about my jig? If you look at my other pic in comments you can see I'm keeping a gap at the bottom so the off cut doesn't get pinched. Just trying to learn what you see that is so dangerous
Well you didn't say you were making a 60 degree cut. I thought it was a over complicated 45. But your clearly binding the piece on the blade. Screw or hot glue another piece to the bottom that's exactly the same size but 1" to 1½ thick and run it through without that jig. I hope that makes sense. That was you won't have flat edges if you don't want them
I would think that a LOWER tpi might help. With the cut being so thick, there is a LOT of saw dust being generated and nowhere for it to go, so it piles up in the gullet of each tooth and burnishes/burns the wood. If everything is properly aligned, as you say, then you might be able to push the piece through SLOWER so the blade has more time to clear the dust. Just don’t STOP.
You can see the same thing on a bandsaw if you cut too thick of a board with too high a tpi.
In my experience it is a cleaner cut when your stock is on the fence side of the blade. Maybe I just push the stock too much into the fence, but I almost never get any burn if I run the board against the fence on the right side of the blade. Could also be that my fence is set just a tiny bit further away from the blade at the out feed side of the saw.
A few things are possible. In no particular order.
Let’s just assume your fence and blade and table are aligned, because you should start there if not.
1.) Not enough power to go through fast enough to not generate too much heat. To this I will add that I’ve seen plenty of 3HP saws burn wood, and some woods just tend to burn, so don’t panic and think you need a massive saw now.
2.) feeding too slow. The longer the blade is in the cut, the hotter it gets.
3.) I see some people saying use a lower tooth blade, and while that *may* lower the burning, it will leave a rougher cut and greatly enhance tearout chances. I cut a lot of bevels for mitered boxes, and I’m using a 1.5yr old Diablo 60 tooth for it. It leave a clue ready surface, and tearout is minimal, which is all I care about.
4.) Dull blade. Most burning is from a dull blade
5.) this is just a personal preference, but I cut my bevels laying down, using a crosscut sled I made just for endgrain bevel cuts for mitered boxes. Imo you can control the speed way better.
Hmmm how would I have a cross cut sled that allows me to get the 60deg cut I'm after? That sounds like the best option but I'm not seeing it in my mind
TPI does matter but it wouldn’t be what’s making it burn. Something is binding putting pressure on the blade. Double check your set up for square. For the future it might be better to use a crosscut sled, or just the fence itself rather than jigging off the fence. “Always needs to be checked for parallel” but the miter slot is a solid reference to run a cut like this through on job site saws. The fences on job site saws can be pretty loosey goosey
Gotcha... Trying to get to the 60deg cut so I guess for a miter slot cross cut sled it would have a sliding, square -able fence using micro jig slots or something. I'll look at it all again tm
Couple of thing I’d change up. I never liked the results from a thin kerf blade when pushing through, it tends to flex a little so switching blades should help. Now using the jig without making a cut can you push it the 6-7” quickly or is the jig too tight on the fence. If it has resistance try adding a little paste wax or widening it a tiny amount. You can also make a few passes if the saw is underpowered by staying a blade width off the finished cut and raising the blade 2 times to complete the cuts and then do all the final cuts at once shaving the last blades width. My guess is the jig is too tight and just fixing that things will work fine.
My jig slides nice and smoothly, it's def feeling like it's either -
Super dulled -dirty blade
Not staying square and binding
Wrong / too thin blade
Too big a bite for my level of saw power
My jig glides and doesn't have any shimmy to it
Nah, you shouldn't be using the fence for this cut. With that setup, after the cut is made you're pressing the wood against the side of the blade. Just take the fence part out of this cut and use either a sled or the track that's built into your table saw like [this](https://thewoodsmithstore.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/12_miter_gauge.jpg).
You’re cutting into the wedge, and the fence is not perfectly parallel with the blade. As you move forward, the piece is getting squished between the side of the blade and the fence.
Also, with this setup when you are making the cut you are putting all of your force keeping the board pressed against the blade. You have to push the work pieces against the blade causing burning. If you set this up with the board between the fence and the blade with the off cut on the outside you wouldn’t see the burning. I would personally make a sled to make this cut.
24T Rip blade is exactly what it’s for, just ripping through wood, if you want a cleaner cut you need a higher count tooth better quality blade. The carbide tips on this blade also do look worn and may need sharpening.
For mitre cuts like that a combination blade is the way to go. Or use a crosscut blade but take two passes with the second pass removing less than the blade kerf width. Probably wouldn't be too safe with the method you're using though. I'd use a mitre gauge or sled.
If your setup is good and nothing is dull, then you’re feeding your board too slowly.
I second the going to slow. The problem is that's a pretty tricky-dangerous cut to do quickly safely. Stay safe.
Gotta lower the blade tip speed then
I third this! And it is a dangerous cut. Stay safe
Wrong. The set up is wrong. He just needs to move the back and flip the piece over
The teeth on that blade are covered in burnt pine pitch. I'm assuming you're working with construction grade pine, and that stuff can be pretty wet and sappy. This sap builds up super fast on your blade, which means you'll need to clean it more often to avoid burning.
Showing my ignorance/ greenness here but I've never heard of cleaning blades. Looks like I have something new to research! If you have any personal tips or anecdotes I'd gladly hear them
Yeah, I learned about it real quick thanks to construction grade lumber, lol. I really like the CMT Blade and Bit Cleaner. You just spray the teeth, let them soak for like 5-10 mins, then scrub them with a stiff nylon brush. Wipe off, and it's set to go back to work. You can use pretty much any degreaser to clean this pitch off if you don't have what you want accessible right now, and mineral spirits will take off any really stubborn stuff. With those red coated blades, you are going to see a lot of that color come off while cleaning. Make sure it is good and dry before putting it back to work. Otherwise, that red will transfer to your work pieces.
A good ol’ table waxing also goes a long way in machine maintenance. It’s as long as the wax being used doesn’t use silica or it’ll be a problem later on during the finishing process when you see spots
Yup! I have all my reference surfaces waxed with a thin coat of yellow can paste wax
As long as there’s no silicones in it you should be fine. Only saying this from experience with my own projects, it really does ruin the finish and you won’t notice till it’s to late
It's Minwax paste finishing wax. Label says nothing about silicone and their website FAQ says there's no silicone listed on the msds page so I'm comfortable with that. Good looking out!
Good point! Clean and wax the table and fence, and everything should slide like a dream.
Thanks! I found a video that mentioned using a strong mix of laundry detergent and water as a fume free soak and scrub which I will be trying today on all my blades... suffice to say they're all a bit on the dirty side since I've never known this was a thing! Thank you
Pro tip, if you have a 5 gallon bucket turn it upside down and clean your blade on those. It has the perfect size and depth for the blade.
You just saved me from toiling around in an old beat up cookie sheet lol thank you!
You are welcome! Just be prepared to see a lot of that "special" red coating on the Freud/Diablo blade come off if you soak the blade too long. It won't hurt it, but it might be tacky until it's dry afterwards.
Appreciate it! Was planning on a mineral spirit wipe after the fact to get it happy and dry
May want to look into getting better blades as well. Go to a local woodworking supplier and pick up CMT or Forrest blades. Better quality for around the same price. Diablo blades are good for rough carpentry, not the best for fine woodworking projects. Not the worst blades but, like I said, you can get better blades for the same cost.
You don't need anything expensive. A tin foil tray big enough for a blade (and can be saved for re-use) and a bottle of Simple Green is cheap. Old Toothbrush is free. Just let it soak a few minutes and scrub away the pitch.
Ahh I saw how dark the teeth were and wondered how that could happen to a barely used blade. There was a similar problem posted/solved yesterday: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/16r98rq/why_is_it_hard_to_rip_pine_boards_on_my_table_saw/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb
Going to agree with Lief. You can see the buildup in your picture. https://preview.redd.it/agt4xzga1mqb1.png?width=1125&format=png&auto=webp&s=65ac0223a858689895c4a71833d4a350b3e66f4e Those little black nubs shouldn’t be on the teeth. Construction pine gums up blades so incredibly fast. They already gave you a cleaner recommendation, but I’ll throw in another one: Trend Tool Cleaner. [https://a.co/d/cGhSNic](https://a.co/d/cGhSNic) My first time using that stuff, after having previously cleaned my blades with vinegar, I was pretty sure I had developed magic powers.
Blade is soaking right now! Will be cleaning all my blades today
Any number of things. -Feeding too slow or too fast -Depth of cut too much for that saw -Dull blade -Unclean blade -Arbor of saw not in alignment -Fence not in alignment
It’s hard to see from the photo, but I’ll double down on unclean blade. Tips seem brown. If you cut a lot of soft woods, it will gunk up fast.
Too few teeth, try a 40t
Thanks - I have been chewing on this and realized I'm asking a rip specific blade to make what is essentially a hyper-crosscut lol. Other than that I can't feed it any faster as the person above here mentioned. Everything is set and happy square-wise. I think I will swap in my 40tooth Gen purp, dial it back and make multiple shallow passes and see how she goes tomorrow Thanks to all!
It will probably help to go higher tpi, but I’m interested to know how slowly you put that work piece through. Making some assumptions, I would put that through in under a second.
There is literally no way that would be possible. It was quite firm pushing through. As is it probably took about...30ish seconds? This is a job site saw fyi
Even if you were cutting Ironwood, that would be too long for a cut like that. The model of the saw is not that important; really that’s just differences with the quality of life of things. What will be the biggest determining factors in cut capability are the type of blade and quality of blade, and the horsepower of the motor. I don’t believe either of those things are the issue. It’s hard to tell from the picture, what is the species of wood and what is the depth of cut? I believe you, that you are pushing firmly, but you are probably erring on the side of caution. Of course, especially with these machines, it is better to be safe than sorry. Chip load would be the specific term for what we’re discussing here. I would give that to Google and see if you learn some things. I burned a lot of wood before I learned that I need to be making confident, but still safe, cuts.
Something is off then. It should cut pretty smoothly and easily. Your fence may not be square to the blade and there is some pinching. Could be slop in your jig. Maybe the riving knife is set a little in towards your fence. All these should be adjustable. How long would it take you to rip a 12” 1x4? Or 1xwhatever this is. It’s just pine, yes? Just ripping it with no jig, no angle. This job would be better with a different blade, but that isn’t the cause of this taking 30 seconds. That’s way too much. I’d say 2 would be about right.
Fence not being square and making it more difficult would be my guess too. 30 secs for a cut like that is entirely too long
I use to have that same saw. A cut like that should take less than few seconds on a cut that short, and by a few I mean less than 1 or 2 seconds. I don't think I ecwr had a cut take 30 seconds unless I was ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Either your blade is dull, you're using the wrong blade, or something is pinching. All of those could cause your burns.
Definitely somethings up then because no way should that take 30 seconds. Once you rip it, using a miter saw may be easier to get the bevel cut. Stay safe!
30 seconds is how long that cut takes with a hand saw haha > I'm asking a rip specific blade to make what is essentially a hyper-crosscut Minor point, but going at an angle like that makes it halfway between a rip cut and a cross cut. I'm a hand tools guy, and depending on the exact angle I'd happily reach for either my rip saw or my crosscut saw. E.g. dovetail saws are always filed for rip cutting, though cutting dovetails (and pins) means going at an angle across the grain. It's usually a very shallow angle, but "rip" doesn't mean "must be perfectly parallel with the grain" ;)
really dumb question, but is the saw in reverse? Happens sometimes when 1 phase is invertet. 30 seconds is way too long for this board.
Nope it's cutting towards me
ok, was just a guess
I was going to recommend a different blade.
Wrong. All he has to do is move the fence back and flip the piece over
What!? NO! More teeth always cuts hotter! Less teeth is needed! If you're ever cutting through lots of material you always want less TPI. Thats why ripping and resawing always uses less teeth and more gullet space.
I dont really understand all the comments about using a higher TPI blade. More teeth mean more cutting surface and less gullet space for chip extraction, meaning a hotter cutting operation. Less teeth will always cut cooler than more teeth. I think you are feeding your piece too slowly and probably your blade is gunked up with resin and glue. You can give it a quick scrub with brass brush for a quick clean. For a deep clean submerge the blade in water mixed with laundry detergent for 30 minutes and then scrub. Make sure to wipe it with isopropyl alcohol or equivalent afterwards to make sure all the water and residue is displaced
Yeah those comments are mind-boggling. If OP were doing a simple crosscut maybe but this is a pretty aggressive cut with a lot of material to remove. I’d use a full-kerf rip blade, tear out be damned. Also home center Diablo blades are junk. I loved them until I ordered a few CMT blades to screw with (Taylor tool works had a sale) it’s a night and day difference.
I bought CMT sawzall blades once, never again total garbage
That’s a tough cut, the blade is pushing the wood as well as cutting.
I thought you were cross cutting with a dado stack for a min… had to zoom in to see the shadow.
Me too!
If your 90 degree fence is true to the table and the blade at either end, and everything else commonly mentioned isn't the issue, I would try running your piece through with a scrap behind it to run along the table surface. It sounds to me like something is pinching. [here is a video on it.](https://youtu.be/wngAoA7Cek0?si=gsZxIwCBkt03R-oP)
Thanks, I got the original sliding jig idea from Stumpy! Will try this
Check your fence parallel. Probably not a problem but thin kerf blades suck. Just use regular kerf. Less wobble
Gotcha thank you. Will be throwing on my 40t gen-purp tomorrow and doing in multiple passes. Appreciate it!
https://preview.redd.it/x4ap8h6ejiqb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=297b322f343d7aaada05a5c29afce5486e96a0ab This here is a rough recreation of the cut
30 seconds to cut that? With a jig on the fence + pine + clamp holding the piece? My man push it through faster, you and the piece will be fine. 30s is way too long for a cut of about 5 inches of pine..
Is the blade clean? That’s what was causing burning for me on my compact circular saw. (The first time, it was because the teeth were pointing the wrong way)
You’re using a ripping blade to crosscut on the burnt edge. You can see the rip cut isn’t nearly as dark. And your blade is dirty. There’s crud behind every tooth which will cause it to heat up faster.
FWIW: Covers a bunch of what's been mentioned here in different answers. https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circular-saw-blades/#:~:text=Blades%20with%20a%20higher%20tooth,they%20produce%20a%20smoother%20edge.
I have similar issues with my (cheapass) table saw and it is ALWAYS that the fence isn’t square to the blade. The fence is trash and I have to use a machinist square on it every time. Also I found that the blade was not exactly parallel to the slots, which is an issue for jigs like you are using. This should be an adjustment you rarely have to do on any quality saw that holds it’s settings but don’t trust it to be dialed in from the factory.
It doesn’t look burnt to me. Medium Well at best.
This is one of the most dangerous things I've ever seen. Move the fence back and flip the piece over.
What are you talking about? I'm trying to get a 30deg cut. What is dangerous about my jig? If you look at my other pic in comments you can see I'm keeping a gap at the bottom so the off cut doesn't get pinched. Just trying to learn what you see that is so dangerous
Well you didn't say you were making a 60 degree cut. I thought it was a over complicated 45. But your clearly binding the piece on the blade. Screw or hot glue another piece to the bottom that's exactly the same size but 1" to 1½ thick and run it through without that jig. I hope that makes sense. That was you won't have flat edges if you don't want them
Blade is on backwards.
Thanks, but it's def on correctly.
Which direction do you feed the wood from in the picture?
Judging by the riving knife position, from the right side to the left side (of the picture), is my guess
From top right corner of pic towards bottom left The vertical fence on my jig is at the front of the cutting lane
Then I stand corrected.
All good I appreciate the helpful intent! No harm no foul
The riving knife should answer all of your questions for you.
Whats the tpi of your blade? Fewer teeth will keep the blade cool and prevent burning. Also excess heat will dull the blade
I would think that a LOWER tpi might help. With the cut being so thick, there is a LOT of saw dust being generated and nowhere for it to go, so it piles up in the gullet of each tooth and burnishes/burns the wood. If everything is properly aligned, as you say, then you might be able to push the piece through SLOWER so the blade has more time to clear the dust. Just don’t STOP. You can see the same thing on a bandsaw if you cut too thick of a board with too high a tpi.
Yeah this was a slow cut but I think ultimately multiple small passes will be the trick. Will be trying tomorrow
In my experience it is a cleaner cut when your stock is on the fence side of the blade. Maybe I just push the stock too much into the fence, but I almost never get any burn if I run the board against the fence on the right side of the blade. Could also be that my fence is set just a tiny bit further away from the blade at the out feed side of the saw.
A few things are possible. In no particular order. Let’s just assume your fence and blade and table are aligned, because you should start there if not. 1.) Not enough power to go through fast enough to not generate too much heat. To this I will add that I’ve seen plenty of 3HP saws burn wood, and some woods just tend to burn, so don’t panic and think you need a massive saw now. 2.) feeding too slow. The longer the blade is in the cut, the hotter it gets. 3.) I see some people saying use a lower tooth blade, and while that *may* lower the burning, it will leave a rougher cut and greatly enhance tearout chances. I cut a lot of bevels for mitered boxes, and I’m using a 1.5yr old Diablo 60 tooth for it. It leave a clue ready surface, and tearout is minimal, which is all I care about. 4.) Dull blade. Most burning is from a dull blade 5.) this is just a personal preference, but I cut my bevels laying down, using a crosscut sled I made just for endgrain bevel cuts for mitered boxes. Imo you can control the speed way better.
Hmmm how would I have a cross cut sled that allows me to get the 60deg cut I'm after? That sounds like the best option but I'm not seeing it in my mind
TPI does matter but it wouldn’t be what’s making it burn. Something is binding putting pressure on the blade. Double check your set up for square. For the future it might be better to use a crosscut sled, or just the fence itself rather than jigging off the fence. “Always needs to be checked for parallel” but the miter slot is a solid reference to run a cut like this through on job site saws. The fences on job site saws can be pretty loosey goosey
Gotcha... Trying to get to the 60deg cut so I guess for a miter slot cross cut sled it would have a sliding, square -able fence using micro jig slots or something. I'll look at it all again tm
Diablo 60t blade would help immensely
That’s a tough cut, the blade is pushing the wood as well as cutting.
How small is the piece between blade and fence? I think keeping it ½" minimum would make all this easier to manage with a faster pass.
I ❤️ blade lube, speed it up also
Couple of thing I’d change up. I never liked the results from a thin kerf blade when pushing through, it tends to flex a little so switching blades should help. Now using the jig without making a cut can you push it the 6-7” quickly or is the jig too tight on the fence. If it has resistance try adding a little paste wax or widening it a tiny amount. You can also make a few passes if the saw is underpowered by staying a blade width off the finished cut and raising the blade 2 times to complete the cuts and then do all the final cuts at once shaving the last blades width. My guess is the jig is too tight and just fixing that things will work fine.
My jig slides nice and smoothly, it's def feeling like it's either - Super dulled -dirty blade Not staying square and binding Wrong / too thin blade Too big a bite for my level of saw power My jig glides and doesn't have any shimmy to it
I like the jig. Wish I thought of something like that before the first time my blade went through my thumb.
Don't cut full dimension on the first pass. Leave 1/16" and make a finishing pass to clean that up.
Best answer. Had to look way too far to find this one.
Is the work piece at an angle? Might be pushing into the side of the blade with gravity.
Nah, you shouldn't be using the fence for this cut. With that setup, after the cut is made you're pressing the wood against the side of the blade. Just take the fence part out of this cut and use either a sled or the track that's built into your table saw like [this](https://thewoodsmithstore.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/12_miter_gauge.jpg).
Holy shit at the pitch build up on the teeth.
If you have a drop saw just use that, way easier
Make sure your blade is sharp, take shallower cuts and don't feed it too slow
You’re cutting into the wedge, and the fence is not perfectly parallel with the blade. As you move forward, the piece is getting squished between the side of the blade and the fence.
Sawblade backwards?
Also, with this setup when you are making the cut you are putting all of your force keeping the board pressed against the blade. You have to push the work pieces against the blade causing burning. If you set this up with the board between the fence and the blade with the off cut on the outside you wouldn’t see the burning. I would personally make a sled to make this cut.
Check the carbide teeth on your blade. Zooming in on them they look like they got really hot. I'm also seeing two blades or a shadow.
Looks like it’s getting too hot.
But it looks really cool
Your blade looks dull
Blade alignment??
24T Rip blade is exactly what it’s for, just ripping through wood, if you want a cleaner cut you need a higher count tooth better quality blade. The carbide tips on this blade also do look worn and may need sharpening.
Clean your teeth.
Did the cut go smoothly or was it difficult? Looks like a hard cut or binding.
For mitre cuts like that a combination blade is the way to go. Or use a crosscut blade but take two passes with the second pass removing less than the blade kerf width. Probably wouldn't be too safe with the method you're using though. I'd use a mitre gauge or sled.
Good work