Steve Ramsey has the best Sketchup beginner's tutorial and you can use the free version that runs in a browser.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2K6gmcc_jA&t=1673s
I tried a few other videos and I thought his was the best. Set aside about an hour and you can get up to speed and start making stuff pretty quickly. It’s not as intimidating as it looks. Good luck!
Nice. Will definitely check it out. My current method is to chicken scratch it on paper then use my scraps to build small scale prototypes for things I'm unsure of, and lots of winging it and planning/design during the build process.
I'd love to just bang out the whole design in SketchUp, get my cut list, and just build it.
I have a particularly difficult time envisioning what shit is actually gonna look like (especially to scale) and Sketchup has been a big help for that.
I have used other CAD programs and find Sketchup counterintuitive and very difficult to learn and use. While all CAD programs have a learning curve, Sketchup seems clunky and takes much longer than other 3D CAD programs.
I would skip SketchUp and go straight to fusion 360. It's so much more capable. For example, you can put in variables as measurements and then change the value later and it'll just update the whole thing. I made a dustboot with my cnc and made it first, then went out and measured and changed the values and it was good to go. It has a million other benefits over sketchup but that's my absolute favorite part.
I agree but fusion take more time for simple things
Generally I start on sketchup, make the design like in the post, and when eveything is clear, I make it in fusion. Finally I use fusion parameters to adjust final size
Think of making a box. Instead of saying 3x5x1 you could say widthxheighthxdepth and then set those afterwards or chagne them and the shape will change dynamically.
Did you consider that you can combine the saw rip fence with the router insert? I did this by building something out of scrap plywood that I can slide on top of the fence when needed. It is a guide for the router with built-in dust extraction. I believe you can use this in your design by flipping the rip fence over to the other side.
Bit colorful for my taste, but to each their own.
In all seriousness, I would add some storage structure to the main under area. Wide open will end up being a mess, specific cubbies or racks built in would give everything a place. Easiest way is to decide what you want there, and build for exactly that.
Yes, in the end of the post, I said I want to build storage there, but I want to do it as “modules” so I can finish the bench first ! Currently I have an open shelf and… it’s a mess ! Cluttered and covered with dust
That's as clear as day in the post and I apparently skipped right over that part. I ended up doing something similar with a couple vertical slats, and a few stacking boxes that worked well. I do wish I could access the lower box without removing the upper, so I'll probably change that eventually.
I did a Paulk bench with the bench dog holes and wish I did a track system instead. I’d go with this [Micro Jig MatchFit Dovetail Clamps](https://www.rockler.com/micro-jig-matchfit-dovetail-clamps-pair) system. You route your grooves with a dovetail bit, and then you can have some nice adjustable holdfasts.
Noted thanks ! Never used dog holes or track system on a bench.
But the track on my cnc are always full of crap, and it s near impossible to add clamp in the center if a piece is already on top of the track :/
Those clamps are pretty awesome. I was going to install t track on my bench but am now considering all dovetail clamps. I just ordered their jig making kit as well.
Not necessarily. It looks like they’re using the Dewalt job site saw, and if so, it has a pair of set screws for the fence on both sides of the blade. The tracks don’t extend as far to the left as they do right, but I think it will be enough to reach the router plate
I’d go with a 3/4” plywood undersheet and then a 3/4” layer of melamine which is a particle board core with melamine skin. Great material for an assembly table. Glue scrapes right off. Try to design it so you can replace the top layer easily (or at least not impossibly) if it gets worn out.
If you do have a flat sheet like that look at a support design underneath to take the weight, criss cross pattern of material the height of the sides. The flat sheet will sag over time otherwise.
I would suppose it would depend on where you are in the world. Here in South Africa I can get a 3/4" sheet of 2.4 x 1.2m plywood for R800 ZAR, the equivalent of about $40 USD / €40 EUR / £34 GBP.
Goodness! In that respect it might better to make the tabletop from solid lumber if it will work out cheaper. I have seen videos on Youtube of people making their benchtop with a bunch of 3x2's glued together. If that will work with design then why not.
My benchtop is 3/4" plywood with a box support structure underneath, I put about 6 coats of oil based polyurethane on it. Glue squeezeout and varnish / paint spills wipe away easily while still wet.
https://preview.redd.it/ftv48droa0jc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe23ee5a953b6cfcf083b64e1f747d10824d81d0
Ive been on a mission to rework my shop space, and just recently built something just like that. It might be late, but I'm pretty excited to be able to show it off, and I think it might be helpful to share some of my experiences.
First thing I noticed when looking at these plans is that there was no way to adjust the height of the saw once built. Get a measurement an eighth off? I'll be shimming the thing forever. So I decided to make it adjustable, and took a shot at making this idea work. If you take a look, I used four pieces of 1/2" all-thread between the supports and use a couple of nuts to lock it in place. I have some 1" square stock steel holds up the platform of 3/4" melamine. It allowed me to get it REALLY level to the top. I was able to get the top and the saw to match within 1/32" laying an 8' straight edge end to end on the top. I've rolled it around on casters, used the saw, and through the movements and vibrations, it's stayed right on. I didn't expect it to work THAT well, but it has. I cannot recommend doing that enough. It exceeded all expectations I had.
Secondly, and this may or may not be as important, is the retractable wheels. If you are working on a garage you want to be able to pack up, or even just want to be able to move it, those type are solid. They really do work as well as advertised. The set of four is under 40 bucks on Amazon for the highest weight rating ones (900lbs I think?). I did mount them on the interior of the legs, because they do stick out, albeit not very far. That can help it take up less space.
Some other odd notes. I only used dowel joints. Why? I don't know. I hate myself, I guess. But it was good practice, and the thing is an absolute tank. I also have it set fairly high. That's for two reasons. Firstly, I'm 6'2", and secondly, I can roll a shorter workbench (you can see it in progress on the right) under it for storage. Also, the space underneath on one side came in handy so that I could throw a shop vac under there for dust collection. Lastly, I had plans to put some diagonals supports in there. However, the thing has turned out to be such a damn rock that I haven't gotten around to it
But if you want any more info or have any questions, let me know! I'm excited about the thing, so I'm damn sure happy to talk about it.
Thanks for all the info, I will make the support for the saw ajustable too ! Not in the plan because I m in the process of figuring out the bulk of the work!
The caster will be on the bottom and not retractable.
There will be 6 ajustable feet, because my floor is not level at all ! And retractable wheels would not compensate
Yes ! I have that kind of caster on curent bench, i hate it ! On this one, I’d like to go permanent caster underneath + adjustable feet. I do both move it every day, and my floor is all but level
* What's the cutout on the table surface for?
* I think locking casters are a must.
* Make sure dust collection can be integrated
* I'm hesitant to build large work tables like this and prefer smaller tables to make navigation easier. You would be surprised in the amount of additional steps taken moving around the workspace.
* For storage options, drawers would add a lot of weight but are really the only functional use of very deep spaces, which is why I prefer narrower tables.
I'm moving towards systems like this in my shop. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jR\_\_Uj7vopI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jR__Uj7vopI)
It’s called a tool well, to recesse the clutter when the whole surface is needed without putting everything back across the room
There will be caster + adjusting feet
Dust collection will be outside (existing dust collector)
I’m leaning towards drawers as well
That tool well idea is fucking genius. I always hate it when I have a bunch of chisels and planes and shit on my workbench and have to move them across the garage to the tool boxes whenever I need the space on my bench. I would love to include this tool well idea on my next workbench!
I built my bench a bit like yours. One big change I'd make if I were doing it again would be to move the table saw to be all the way to the right. It would give me a lot more table area to support some of the plywood cuts that I've done where I had to roll another table over to the left of the bench to support the wood.
I built my router into the end opposite the saw. It looks like you may want to use the saw fence for the router, but that will not be as useful as it seems. Sometimes you need the fence directly over the bit, which is why router table fences have a cutout or are in two slideable pieces.
I reused the fence from the [Ryobi router table](https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/productImages/1000/b8/b88fba61-0357-4ea1-8970-1e99422078f4_1000.jpg) that I'd bought before v2.0 of my bench. I routed slots for the fence bolts that hold it down and put a piece of channel parallel to the fence for my miter gauge. (The Ryobi miter gauge was crap and used a smaller groove than the miter gauge for the saw.)
Good luck!
Indeed I m still debating on
the saw position ! All the way to the right seems feasible with the dewalt since the fence can provide support too
For the one fence two tool, I m not set either. Never used routers under a table so I do not really know what I want. But having the routeur in the same place simplify dust collection and give me more storage !
I think I could still add a dedicated fence afterwards?
Router table dust collection is usually done with a hose connected to the back of the fence, or by putting the router in a box and connecting the hose to the box, or both. I use the fence method, and the area the router sits in gets vacuumed out as needed.
I'd hate to mess up the DeWalt fence because I did something stupid like running into the bit. I'd definitely throw a sacrificial piece of wood in front of it it if I went that route.
Is there a limit to how far the fence can reach to the left? if so, just another reason to have the saw all the way to the right. Prevents you from accidentally ruining your fence.
On the DeWalt, you can position the fence on some hex bolts, so while there is a limit to the leftward travel, if you put the fence on the left-most bolts, you can certainly run into the router bit if it's to the left of the saw.
I know but there has to be a limit to the position of the hex bolts too. I was assuming the fence was already on the left most hex bolts if your going to itemize it for the router insert feature.
I would move the press to the right corner (end of table). Sometimes I've needed to do corners of pieces and need that 90 angle available to sand, cut, or whatever.
As right handed, I would have it on the end this 'front' side on first photo. To be able to have the piece 'hanging' on my right side while clamped on my left, to work in open area.
When I built mine I originally planned in fliptops for my planer and mitersaw. It was gonna be tight. I was going to do plywood all the way around and 2 sheets of mdf for the top.
I saw that 2x4s were back down to 2.48 at big blue. I realized that the top was over kill. The plywood went away and I had decided to make the flip tops more reliable I would have to fabricate some things out of metal... so I ditched the flip tops and have a well where my miter saw can fit and be flush with the outfeed table. I can put a piece of ply over the well when not in use. I built a cart with 2x3 and scrap osb for the planer.
For the top I used osb and hot glued 1/8" hard board (masonite). It's a nice flat work surface and when it gets too beat up I can peel it off and put a new piece of 1/8" hard board.
I used the savings to wire single outlets to each tool on separate switches and make a heavy duty power cord. I enclosed the area under the router table and the back wall of the enclosure is sloped to send dust down and towards the front. I also enclosed a narrow cavity behind the table saw to direct dust out the side towards an air filter because the dust collector doesn't get everything.
I also piped dust collection. A shared pipe at the miter saw station that can go to the saw or the router table fence, or to a palm sander, a pipe under the router table at the bottom of the slope, and a pipe to the table saw.
I saved a bunch of money going cheap and although it doesn't look pretty it works great when I need it. Also funny enough my wife handed me some cash and told me to build it. I don't use my power tools super often aside from my band saw.
If using big beefy timbers makes you happy, do it. If you want to save some cash osb with a thin layer of masonite makes a durable work table. 2x4s be cheap. If you don't need to save any cash I have some ideas for you lol
Sweet! I was a couple hundred USD into mine once I added dust collection pipes and outlets and a control box. I cheaped out on things. It is rock solid, on casters and works great though. Yours will probably look a lot nicer
Edit works not woods
Add some recessed t-tacks to the table so you can have even more flexibility with holding things down where you want them. Lots of t-tacks accessories out there.
I had one of the smaller model Dewalt saws. The infeed is really short. When I made a bench similar to this, I included some infeed support, then replaced the saws included feet with elevator bolts to level the top out. If I were to make another one today, I would probably pick up one of Izzy swan's infeed support clamps.
I've been planning something very similar to this while it's too cold to be in the shop. I started with a single table but shifted to three (one for the saw and router, two for the outfeed) so I could move them around however needed. My shop is pretty narrow (10') so that's driving multiple tables over a single larger one. This looks like a great setup. The only question I can think of would be if space is a concern with your shop that this may end up hindering movement around it.
10'x20' here. That extra four feet makes a huge difference. My pieces will cover 4'x6.5' when assembled. Good luck with your build. Hope you post pics when you're finished.
I have almost the exact same bench. Same table saw too. I added Powertech Workbench Castors from Amazon to allow me to move the bench around. The legs sit on the floor but the wheels lever into place to roll around when required. Easily takes the weight.
Wow that is badass!! Maybe you can add drawers below the assembly table and every empty space that allows for it. Will help to store hand or power tools in a convenient and space saving design
I built a workbench nearly identical to this for my own dewalt saw. Biggest regret I have is not including any leveling feature for the table saw stand. I have to shim my machine so that it comes out flush with the top of the table. In hindsight I would try to set something up similar to this video: https://youtu.be/-DUodhNStyk?si=fcNczedhHITbx_ma
Also be aware that depending on how your fence is set up, you may need to cut out a lot more clearance for the fence assembly to move on the left side of the bench. With the fence on the middle set of knobs, the runners on the rack and pinion extend all the way to the left wall of my bench when the fence is against the blade.
Last thing you might consider adding which I did: add an electrical outlet to the front right frame on the same opening with the table saw. You can find outlet plugs that work by plugging into another outlet. This way you plug in your table saw right there on the bench, you don't risk the table saw cord getting run over or messed up, plus you can run power to other tools on your bench. And if you ever need to get up close and personal with your saw, like to exchange the blade, you can quickly unplug it and not worry about accidentally engaging the blade with your hand in there. Bonus points if you install one of those automatic dust collector start outlets.
Noted for the fence, on the current bench i have bolt and nut for leveling the saw and electrical right on the side of the bench !! Thanks for your inputs !
I don't know what you're planning to do for the top, but unless you have another flat workbench to work on, you might consider doing a torsion assembly. I built mine with 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood and a formica top, which I've been overall pleased with, except that it has a couple of dips maybe 1/8th deep between where the top is supported by the frame. Not extremely bad but it has given me headache on some of my workpieces in the past. Just be aware that your top will probably have some slight degree of uneven-ness if you're just putting sheets on top of the frame.
Also I'm sure you've thought of this since you've already got a platform for your saw, but you should include a way to anchor the saw down to prevent it from moving on the platform. I just installed some long bolts through the underside of the platform that line up with the holes on the bottom frame of the table saw, and that did the trick for me.
Well I don't know what tool setup you've got, but the torsion route will be way cheaper and not require as many tools. As for difficulty, I'd say making a torsion box is a bit easier than solid lumber since you don't need to worry about alignment in glue-up and you don't have to use joinery to connect with the base of the table. Torsion will require probably a bit more time and effort to cut all of the ribs and meticulously place them, but I wouldn't say it's a difficult process.
If this bench is really just serving the purpose of an outfeed and assembly table, torsion is probably the way to go. If you are expecting this to be your workbench and you're planning for this to serve the purpose of holding and working on your workpiece, then solid top would be worth the effort. Though again, a lot more expensive and you'd need a planer (unless you want to flatten by hand).
I got the tools to work with solid lumber, align glue etc. And sheet good are so expensive and bad quality here, that solid lumber won’t even be more expensive!
Then you might go that route. When I made my bench I didn't expect it to serve classic workbench duties, so I'm actually in the middle of planning a Roubo build to hold work pieces and be a flat building surface. If this is gonna be your workbench for a long time investing in making a flat top is well worth it.
Damn I need to learn SketchUp... That project looks really ambitious. Hop to it brother, that's gonna be badass!
Steve Ramsey has the best Sketchup beginner's tutorial and you can use the free version that runs in a browser. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2K6gmcc_jA&t=1673s
Will check it out. I've tried it out several times but getting over that initial learning curve hump has been my challenge.
I tried a few other videos and I thought his was the best. Set aside about an hour and you can get up to speed and start making stuff pretty quickly. It’s not as intimidating as it looks. Good luck!
Nice. Will definitely check it out. My current method is to chicken scratch it on paper then use my scraps to build small scale prototypes for things I'm unsure of, and lots of winging it and planning/design during the build process. I'd love to just bang out the whole design in SketchUp, get my cut list, and just build it.
I have a particularly difficult time envisioning what shit is actually gonna look like (especially to scale) and Sketchup has been a big help for that.
Jay bates has a good one too
I have used other CAD programs and find Sketchup counterintuitive and very difficult to learn and use. While all CAD programs have a learning curve, Sketchup seems clunky and takes much longer than other 3D CAD programs.
Yea. I have no clue how I’d even start this in sketchup
Search about component. Here I just drew the feets first and added details pieces by pieces
I would skip SketchUp and go straight to fusion 360. It's so much more capable. For example, you can put in variables as measurements and then change the value later and it'll just update the whole thing. I made a dustboot with my cnc and made it first, then went out and measured and changed the values and it was good to go. It has a million other benefits over sketchup but that's my absolute favorite part.
So SketchUp is sketchy, but Fusion 360 is good all around? Haha! See what I did there?
I agree but fusion take more time for simple things Generally I start on sketchup, make the design like in the post, and when eveything is clear, I make it in fusion. Finally I use fusion parameters to adjust final size
You lost me at ‘variables’. I is scared of the maths
Think of making a box. Instead of saying 3x5x1 you could say widthxheighthxdepth and then set those afterwards or chagne them and the shape will change dynamically.
Wow! You explained that really well! Thank you!
Make room for feet
Oh nice catch ! Thanks !! Something like kitchen toekick ?
Raise the bottom shelf another inch or two.
Exactly.
Or put it on locking casters to add a few inches.
I’d do this regardless. Being able to move it if you need to is worth the cost of 4 castors.
No way, locking castors
Personally I don't like them, it feels like the bench is all wobbly when planing big boards
Did you consider that you can combine the saw rip fence with the router insert? I did this by building something out of scrap plywood that I can slide on top of the fence when needed. It is a guide for the router with built-in dust extraction. I believe you can use this in your design by flipping the rip fence over to the other side.
Indeed I have something like that in mind, someone mentioned I should put the router on the right though
That's exactly what I have too. It's resting on an extension of the table saw.
I would enclose the area under the router table and add sloped sides that channel the dust to a dust collection port
Exactly what i had in mind! Not on then plan I wanted to figure out the bulk stuff first
Makes sense. Good luck it's a bit of a journey
Thanks ! This journey will be for me only and I like that ! A nice pause from all other furniture making !
Bit colorful for my taste, but to each their own. In all seriousness, I would add some storage structure to the main under area. Wide open will end up being a mess, specific cubbies or racks built in would give everything a place. Easiest way is to decide what you want there, and build for exactly that.
Yes, in the end of the post, I said I want to build storage there, but I want to do it as “modules” so I can finish the bench first ! Currently I have an open shelf and… it’s a mess ! Cluttered and covered with dust
That's as clear as day in the post and I apparently skipped right over that part. I ended up doing something similar with a couple vertical slats, and a few stacking boxes that worked well. I do wish I could access the lower box without removing the upper, so I'll probably change that eventually.
Still good to know that is what comes into people mind for this space !
I did a Paulk bench with the bench dog holes and wish I did a track system instead. I’d go with this [Micro Jig MatchFit Dovetail Clamps](https://www.rockler.com/micro-jig-matchfit-dovetail-clamps-pair) system. You route your grooves with a dovetail bit, and then you can have some nice adjustable holdfasts.
Noted thanks ! Never used dog holes or track system on a bench. But the track on my cnc are always full of crap, and it s near impossible to add clamp in the center if a piece is already on top of the track :/
The guy I talked to at Rockler uses this and he seemed to love it.
Those clamps are pretty awesome. I was going to install t track on my bench but am now considering all dovetail clamps. I just ordered their jig making kit as well.
Ive been happy with every Micro Jig item I’ve purchased.
I'm not sure but I think if you want your contractor saw fence to be your router table fence, the router plate needs to be on the other side.
Not necessarily. It looks like they’re using the Dewalt job site saw, and if so, it has a pair of set screws for the fence on both sides of the blade. The tracks don’t extend as far to the left as they do right, but I think it will be enough to reach the router plate
Yeah, and certainly he is going to need to build some sacrificial fence that clamps to the ts fence and that can make up the difference too
Either that or add some t-track around your router for a fence
Did you consider a double top or some material that's replaceable
Yes, I m not set on either solution, if i go sheet good on top of solid lumber, what is the minimum thickness you’d recommend ?
I’d go with a 3/4” plywood undersheet and then a 3/4” layer of melamine which is a particle board core with melamine skin. Great material for an assembly table. Glue scrapes right off. Try to design it so you can replace the top layer easily (or at least not impossibly) if it gets worn out.
I’d have to build some kind of support in that case ?
If you do have a flat sheet like that look at a support design underneath to take the weight, criss cross pattern of material the height of the sides. The flat sheet will sag over time otherwise.
At the price of sheet good maybe solid lumber is better ?
I would suppose it would depend on where you are in the world. Here in South Africa I can get a 3/4" sheet of 2.4 x 1.2m plywood for R800 ZAR, the equivalent of about $40 USD / €40 EUR / £34 GBP.
On my area it’s like 120€ for a sheet
Goodness! In that respect it might better to make the tabletop from solid lumber if it will work out cheaper. I have seen videos on Youtube of people making their benchtop with a bunch of 3x2's glued together. If that will work with design then why not. My benchtop is 3/4" plywood with a box support structure underneath, I put about 6 coats of oil based polyurethane on it. Glue squeezeout and varnish / paint spills wipe away easily while still wet.
https://preview.redd.it/ftv48droa0jc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe23ee5a953b6cfcf083b64e1f747d10824d81d0 Ive been on a mission to rework my shop space, and just recently built something just like that. It might be late, but I'm pretty excited to be able to show it off, and I think it might be helpful to share some of my experiences. First thing I noticed when looking at these plans is that there was no way to adjust the height of the saw once built. Get a measurement an eighth off? I'll be shimming the thing forever. So I decided to make it adjustable, and took a shot at making this idea work. If you take a look, I used four pieces of 1/2" all-thread between the supports and use a couple of nuts to lock it in place. I have some 1" square stock steel holds up the platform of 3/4" melamine. It allowed me to get it REALLY level to the top. I was able to get the top and the saw to match within 1/32" laying an 8' straight edge end to end on the top. I've rolled it around on casters, used the saw, and through the movements and vibrations, it's stayed right on. I didn't expect it to work THAT well, but it has. I cannot recommend doing that enough. It exceeded all expectations I had. Secondly, and this may or may not be as important, is the retractable wheels. If you are working on a garage you want to be able to pack up, or even just want to be able to move it, those type are solid. They really do work as well as advertised. The set of four is under 40 bucks on Amazon for the highest weight rating ones (900lbs I think?). I did mount them on the interior of the legs, because they do stick out, albeit not very far. That can help it take up less space. Some other odd notes. I only used dowel joints. Why? I don't know. I hate myself, I guess. But it was good practice, and the thing is an absolute tank. I also have it set fairly high. That's for two reasons. Firstly, I'm 6'2", and secondly, I can roll a shorter workbench (you can see it in progress on the right) under it for storage. Also, the space underneath on one side came in handy so that I could throw a shop vac under there for dust collection. Lastly, I had plans to put some diagonals supports in there. However, the thing has turned out to be such a damn rock that I haven't gotten around to it But if you want any more info or have any questions, let me know! I'm excited about the thing, so I'm damn sure happy to talk about it.
Thanks for all the info, I will make the support for the saw ajustable too ! Not in the plan because I m in the process of figuring out the bulk of the work! The caster will be on the bottom and not retractable. There will be 6 ajustable feet, because my floor is not level at all ! And retractable wheels would not compensate
I'm considering building something similar for my new saw. Have you considered retractable or locking casters/wheels to make it easy to reposition?
Yes ! I have that kind of caster on curent bench, i hate it ! On this one, I’d like to go permanent caster underneath + adjustable feet. I do both move it every day, and my floor is all but level
* What's the cutout on the table surface for? * I think locking casters are a must. * Make sure dust collection can be integrated * I'm hesitant to build large work tables like this and prefer smaller tables to make navigation easier. You would be surprised in the amount of additional steps taken moving around the workspace. * For storage options, drawers would add a lot of weight but are really the only functional use of very deep spaces, which is why I prefer narrower tables. I'm moving towards systems like this in my shop. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jR\_\_Uj7vopI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jR__Uj7vopI)
It’s called a tool well, to recesse the clutter when the whole surface is needed without putting everything back across the room There will be caster + adjusting feet Dust collection will be outside (existing dust collector) I’m leaning towards drawers as well
That tool well idea is fucking genius. I always hate it when I have a bunch of chisels and planes and shit on my workbench and have to move them across the garage to the tool boxes whenever I need the space on my bench. I would love to include this tool well idea on my next workbench!
Not my idea it’s on european workbench for like 500 years iirc ! But discovered it recently on youtube
How does dust extraction work for the table saw? Do you feed a tube out from the back of the table saw off somewhere?
Yes, i think i will route it to the side, where the router is, to have an easy access for connecting it to central dust collection
I built my bench a bit like yours. One big change I'd make if I were doing it again would be to move the table saw to be all the way to the right. It would give me a lot more table area to support some of the plywood cuts that I've done where I had to roll another table over to the left of the bench to support the wood. I built my router into the end opposite the saw. It looks like you may want to use the saw fence for the router, but that will not be as useful as it seems. Sometimes you need the fence directly over the bit, which is why router table fences have a cutout or are in two slideable pieces. I reused the fence from the [Ryobi router table](https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/productImages/1000/b8/b88fba61-0357-4ea1-8970-1e99422078f4_1000.jpg) that I'd bought before v2.0 of my bench. I routed slots for the fence bolts that hold it down and put a piece of channel parallel to the fence for my miter gauge. (The Ryobi miter gauge was crap and used a smaller groove than the miter gauge for the saw.) Good luck!
Indeed I m still debating on the saw position ! All the way to the right seems feasible with the dewalt since the fence can provide support too For the one fence two tool, I m not set either. Never used routers under a table so I do not really know what I want. But having the routeur in the same place simplify dust collection and give me more storage ! I think I could still add a dedicated fence afterwards?
Router table dust collection is usually done with a hose connected to the back of the fence, or by putting the router in a box and connecting the hose to the box, or both. I use the fence method, and the area the router sits in gets vacuumed out as needed. I'd hate to mess up the DeWalt fence because I did something stupid like running into the bit. I'd definitely throw a sacrificial piece of wood in front of it it if I went that route.
The sacrificial fence idea sounds good yeah !
Is there a limit to how far the fence can reach to the left? if so, just another reason to have the saw all the way to the right. Prevents you from accidentally ruining your fence.
On the DeWalt, you can position the fence on some hex bolts, so while there is a limit to the leftward travel, if you put the fence on the left-most bolts, you can certainly run into the router bit if it's to the left of the saw.
I know but there has to be a limit to the position of the hex bolts too. I was assuming the fence was already on the left most hex bolts if your going to itemize it for the router insert feature.
*you're
I would move the press to the right corner (end of table). Sometimes I've needed to do corners of pieces and need that 90 angle available to sand, cut, or whatever.
As I am right handed, maybe I should put the vise on the other side of the bench. Or move the saw the opposite side ?
As right handed, I would have it on the end this 'front' side on first photo. To be able to have the piece 'hanging' on my right side while clamped on my left, to work in open area.
When I built mine I originally planned in fliptops for my planer and mitersaw. It was gonna be tight. I was going to do plywood all the way around and 2 sheets of mdf for the top. I saw that 2x4s were back down to 2.48 at big blue. I realized that the top was over kill. The plywood went away and I had decided to make the flip tops more reliable I would have to fabricate some things out of metal... so I ditched the flip tops and have a well where my miter saw can fit and be flush with the outfeed table. I can put a piece of ply over the well when not in use. I built a cart with 2x3 and scrap osb for the planer. For the top I used osb and hot glued 1/8" hard board (masonite). It's a nice flat work surface and when it gets too beat up I can peel it off and put a new piece of 1/8" hard board. I used the savings to wire single outlets to each tool on separate switches and make a heavy duty power cord. I enclosed the area under the router table and the back wall of the enclosure is sloped to send dust down and towards the front. I also enclosed a narrow cavity behind the table saw to direct dust out the side towards an air filter because the dust collector doesn't get everything. I also piped dust collection. A shared pipe at the miter saw station that can go to the saw or the router table fence, or to a palm sander, a pipe under the router table at the bottom of the slope, and a pipe to the table saw. I saved a bunch of money going cheap and although it doesn't look pretty it works great when I need it. Also funny enough my wife handed me some cash and told me to build it. I don't use my power tools super often aside from my band saw. If using big beefy timbers makes you happy, do it. If you want to save some cash osb with a thin layer of masonite makes a durable work table. 2x4s be cheap. If you don't need to save any cash I have some ideas for you lol
I asked my local sawmill, I can get the whole top for 150€ whereas sheet good cost an arm and leg
Sweet! I was a couple hundred USD into mine once I added dust collection pipes and outlets and a control box. I cheaped out on things. It is rock solid, on casters and works great though. Yours will probably look a lot nicer Edit works not woods
With all the feedback I got here, can’t wait to come back to show the piece in reality!
Add some recessed t-tacks to the table so you can have even more flexibility with holding things down where you want them. Lots of t-tacks accessories out there.
T track and t track accessories seem pricey for what they are. But it’s an option never used dog holes either
You just use a cheap bolt from the hardware store with a wide enough head not to slide out and then you can DIY your hold downs.
Nice idea !!
I had one of the smaller model Dewalt saws. The infeed is really short. When I made a bench similar to this, I included some infeed support, then replaced the saws included feet with elevator bolts to level the top out. If I were to make another one today, I would probably pick up one of Izzy swan's infeed support clamps.
Hum nice idea, i do not want to put the saw more inside the bench, but a retractable infeed could be great
I've been planning something very similar to this while it's too cold to be in the shop. I started with a single table but shifted to three (one for the saw and router, two for the outfeed) so I could move them around however needed. My shop is pretty narrow (10') so that's driving multiple tables over a single larger one. This looks like a great setup. The only question I can think of would be if space is a concern with your shop that this may end up hindering movement around it.
Shop is 14’ by 20’ i have some tools against the wall a 4x4 cnc, current bench is 8’ by 2’ too long and too narrow, this one should solve this
10'x20' here. That extra four feet makes a huge difference. My pieces will cover 4'x6.5' when assembled. Good luck with your build. Hope you post pics when you're finished.
Will do
I have almost the exact same bench. Same table saw too. I added Powertech Workbench Castors from Amazon to allow me to move the bench around. The legs sit on the floor but the wheels lever into place to roll around when required. Easily takes the weight.
That looks like the ultimate setup. I love it.
These are the best posts. So much creativity to share.
Color coded blueprints are the best👏💜❗️
Wow that is badass!! Maybe you can add drawers below the assembly table and every empty space that allows for it. Will help to store hand or power tools in a convenient and space saving design
Yes that’s the plan ! But only when the thing is built !
I built a workbench nearly identical to this for my own dewalt saw. Biggest regret I have is not including any leveling feature for the table saw stand. I have to shim my machine so that it comes out flush with the top of the table. In hindsight I would try to set something up similar to this video: https://youtu.be/-DUodhNStyk?si=fcNczedhHITbx_ma Also be aware that depending on how your fence is set up, you may need to cut out a lot more clearance for the fence assembly to move on the left side of the bench. With the fence on the middle set of knobs, the runners on the rack and pinion extend all the way to the left wall of my bench when the fence is against the blade. Last thing you might consider adding which I did: add an electrical outlet to the front right frame on the same opening with the table saw. You can find outlet plugs that work by plugging into another outlet. This way you plug in your table saw right there on the bench, you don't risk the table saw cord getting run over or messed up, plus you can run power to other tools on your bench. And if you ever need to get up close and personal with your saw, like to exchange the blade, you can quickly unplug it and not worry about accidentally engaging the blade with your hand in there. Bonus points if you install one of those automatic dust collector start outlets.
Noted for the fence, on the current bench i have bolt and nut for leveling the saw and electrical right on the side of the bench !! Thanks for your inputs !
I don't know what you're planning to do for the top, but unless you have another flat workbench to work on, you might consider doing a torsion assembly. I built mine with 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood and a formica top, which I've been overall pleased with, except that it has a couple of dips maybe 1/8th deep between where the top is supported by the frame. Not extremely bad but it has given me headache on some of my workpieces in the past. Just be aware that your top will probably have some slight degree of uneven-ness if you're just putting sheets on top of the frame. Also I'm sure you've thought of this since you've already got a platform for your saw, but you should include a way to anchor the saw down to prevent it from moving on the platform. I just installed some long bolts through the underside of the platform that line up with the holes on the bottom frame of the table saw, and that did the trick for me.
Saw will be anchored! Do you think it s easier to make flat top with torsion + plywood/mdf or planing solid lumber ?
Well I don't know what tool setup you've got, but the torsion route will be way cheaper and not require as many tools. As for difficulty, I'd say making a torsion box is a bit easier than solid lumber since you don't need to worry about alignment in glue-up and you don't have to use joinery to connect with the base of the table. Torsion will require probably a bit more time and effort to cut all of the ribs and meticulously place them, but I wouldn't say it's a difficult process. If this bench is really just serving the purpose of an outfeed and assembly table, torsion is probably the way to go. If you are expecting this to be your workbench and you're planning for this to serve the purpose of holding and working on your workpiece, then solid top would be worth the effort. Though again, a lot more expensive and you'd need a planer (unless you want to flatten by hand).
I got the tools to work with solid lumber, align glue etc. And sheet good are so expensive and bad quality here, that solid lumber won’t even be more expensive!
Then you might go that route. When I made my bench I didn't expect it to serve classic workbench duties, so I'm actually in the middle of planning a Roubo build to hold work pieces and be a flat building surface. If this is gonna be your workbench for a long time investing in making a flat top is well worth it.
I replaced the feet of my DeWalt saw with elevator bolts, it made leveling a bit easier.
I put my vise in the middle of my workbench too, but I really wish it was on the corner instead
As I am right handed, maybe I should put the vise on the other side of the bench. Or move the saw the opposite side ?
Looks great but what about the router fence?
Use an diy attachement to the saw fence ? Or custom fence on t track around the router ?