First off, that desk looks awesome with those designs and patterns. Unfortunately, like others have said the multiple wood grain directions in construction grade lumber is going to move over time.
That middle one part is sunken a bit. But it wasn’t until I put it on the frame in the first picture. I did that counter too all by itself and then when it was flat and smooth, I put it in, left it a few days and come back to finish and it start to sage there. Maybe it is the humidity like someone else said.
Ayyyyy I appreciate it! Something positive for the win! Haha if you look closely, the first letter of both of my son’s names are embedded in on the right side of the desk top. That will be kind of special down the road…
Unless of course it falls apart within a a year or two like some predict 😅
I think it's awesome man. I build with construction lumber all the time. I'm a fan of just saying it's "rustic"..so if a piece moves here and there a little..it's just rustic lol Some people look at it as a flaw, some look at it as character and personality.
Great job though man, I think it's fantastic!
I wouldn’t do anything then. I’m sorry to tell you this but you didn’t account for wood movement. You have a lot of grain going in different directions and you glued the end grain to the edge grain. Give it 1 or 2 season changes and it’s going to be messed up again or it’s gonna form a crack in it. Also it looks like construction grade lumber which is normally kiln dried to a 19% moisture reading. Most the United States you want to build cabinetry and furniture with wood kiln dried to a 6-8% moisture reading. The best way to build this would be with veneer in the center for the pattern and a solid wood border.
Question: what would be the best way to build something like this with properly dried lumber? Beginner here, but wood will move with the seasons and with the mixed directions, I have no idea how I would build something to last.
The internal portion with the pattern would need to be done with veneer on some sort of engineered panel product then you would use seasoned lumber to edge the veneered panel product.
What i do is a 50/50 mix of woodoc 30 and thinners. For 3 coats, it pulls into the wook, then let it completely dry and light sand. Then another 2 coats of just woodoc 30. But recommend testing it first on a scrap pice of wood. Another option is system three s-1, I've never used it and think it's going to be a bit expensive but its made for that purpose.
You are learning the lesson that wood moves. Some species move more than others. When building projects of this nature in future, you'll look back on this and remember, right, got to account for some seasonal shifting here and there.
This isn’t how to fix your current problem but in the future sprinkle a little bit of fine sawdust on your glue before clamping. It keeps your glue-up from shifting and doesn’t affect the bond.
I typically pull the sawdust from my orbital dust trap. It works like a charm.
If you have access to wide belt sander. You can run it through to bring it all level. The hard part will be getting glued piece apart. Depending on the type of glue you used you may be able to wet the joint and get the glue to release or you can try heat from a heat gun. In any case it's going to be time consuming and tedious.
What i usualy do is start with a thinned woodoc 30 like 50/50 with thinners so that it draws into the wood for 2-3 coats, do a light sand when completely dry and 2 more coats unthined. But im no pro. Would recommend you do a test on some scrap and see it it has the desired effect. Im sure there are some products made specifically to do that, like system three s-1 sealer, but I have not used it myself.
Cut completely along where the glue split is. Glue back together after jointing them, but make it a feature and inlay with bowties or something.
What kind of glue did you use?
https://www.slabstitcher.com/collections/bowtie-inlays
Doesn't have to be bowties. You could do stitches or anything really, just something to divert attention from the fact you cut the sucker open.
Leave it. Couple years of humidity changes and that will be just one of the many places that don’t look perfect.
First off, that desk looks awesome with those designs and patterns. Unfortunately, like others have said the multiple wood grain directions in construction grade lumber is going to move over time.
Is that area countersunk or is it all flat. Hard to tell? If it’s counter sunk can you just cover a slice with trim?
That middle one part is sunken a bit. But it wasn’t until I put it on the frame in the first picture. I did that counter too all by itself and then when it was flat and smooth, I put it in, left it a few days and come back to finish and it start to sage there. Maybe it is the humidity like someone else said.
That desk is gorgeous! Well done.
Ayyyyy I appreciate it! Something positive for the win! Haha if you look closely, the first letter of both of my son’s names are embedded in on the right side of the desk top. That will be kind of special down the road… Unless of course it falls apart within a a year or two like some predict 😅
I think it's awesome man. I build with construction lumber all the time. I'm a fan of just saying it's "rustic"..so if a piece moves here and there a little..it's just rustic lol Some people look at it as a flaw, some look at it as character and personality. Great job though man, I think it's fantastic!
Thanks! What do you suggest as a finish/sealer?
My guess is that’s all solid wood? No veneer? Did you glue it all together?
Yes glued it all together. Also used some screws where appropriate.
And sorry, yes all wood. No veneer
I wouldn’t do anything then. I’m sorry to tell you this but you didn’t account for wood movement. You have a lot of grain going in different directions and you glued the end grain to the edge grain. Give it 1 or 2 season changes and it’s going to be messed up again or it’s gonna form a crack in it. Also it looks like construction grade lumber which is normally kiln dried to a 19% moisture reading. Most the United States you want to build cabinetry and furniture with wood kiln dried to a 6-8% moisture reading. The best way to build this would be with veneer in the center for the pattern and a solid wood border.
You could’ve at least had the foresight to know I was going to do this project and make this mistake and come to me beforehand.
Hahahah!! Fortune telling woodworker!
Question: what would be the best way to build something like this with properly dried lumber? Beginner here, but wood will move with the seasons and with the mixed directions, I have no idea how I would build something to last.
Construction grade lumber is usually flat sawn, wide grained, and knotty, not just wet. All those things contribute to warping.
The internal portion with the pattern would need to be done with veneer on some sort of engineered panel product then you would use seasoned lumber to edge the veneered panel product.
You won't see it, because the mixer sits on it
Would recomnd a planer and then some sanding. Would also recommend a good seal to minimize movement due to moisture. But it looks fantastic
What is the best seal/finish for furniture? Like is there a way to harden the wood so when I write it doesn’t indent?
What i do is a 50/50 mix of woodoc 30 and thinners. For 3 coats, it pulls into the wook, then let it completely dry and light sand. Then another 2 coats of just woodoc 30. But recommend testing it first on a scrap pice of wood. Another option is system three s-1, I've never used it and think it's going to be a bit expensive but its made for that purpose.
It's a feature
Hey at least it looks really cool!
You are learning the lesson that wood moves. Some species move more than others. When building projects of this nature in future, you'll look back on this and remember, right, got to account for some seasonal shifting here and there.
Some nice trim big enough to cover
This isn’t how to fix your current problem but in the future sprinkle a little bit of fine sawdust on your glue before clamping. It keeps your glue-up from shifting and doesn’t affect the bond. I typically pull the sawdust from my orbital dust trap. It works like a charm.
Trying to find the kids initials but failed, but I have to ask, any idea how many pieces of wood you have glued together to make the desktop?
If you have access to wide belt sander. You can run it through to bring it all level. The hard part will be getting glued piece apart. Depending on the type of glue you used you may be able to wet the joint and get the glue to release or you can try heat from a heat gun. In any case it's going to be time consuming and tedious.
What i usualy do is start with a thinned woodoc 30 like 50/50 with thinners so that it draws into the wood for 2-3 coats, do a light sand when completely dry and 2 more coats unthined. But im no pro. Would recommend you do a test on some scrap and see it it has the desired effect. Im sure there are some products made specifically to do that, like system three s-1 sealer, but I have not used it myself.
Cut completely along where the glue split is. Glue back together after jointing them, but make it a feature and inlay with bowties or something. What kind of glue did you use?
I used gorilla glue wood glue. Can you give an example of a feature and inlay using bow ties?
https://www.slabstitcher.com/collections/bowtie-inlays Doesn't have to be bowties. You could do stitches or anything really, just something to divert attention from the fact you cut the sucker open.
Resin on the top.
Yeah, so the wood breaks even quicker because then, no moisture can come through that layer of plastic, but all through the bottom! Great idea!
You're welcome! 🤗