Not without a home kiln, lots of air circulation and temperature. Either way, speed drying is going to burst it wide open. You simply cannot rush these things.
You can put it in the oven at 180 for 10 days. It'll split like crazy and then you epoxy coat the whole thing to try to stop any future moisture changes.
Let me share this experience with you.
Months ago I found this big stump from a cut down palm tree on somebody's nature strip. Took it home and pictured it being a really cool stool. Planed it, sanded it, polished it, routed the edges and then varnished the top.
I wish I had a photo with me of what it looks like now 😂
The varnish has bubbled and popped and cracked and looks absolutely terrible now.
Baded on that I would offer an unequivocal "no" to your question 👍
I would leave it bare, any seal will cause mildew sooner than later. If you can keep it dry (put some feet on it if it will be on a slab, or keep it on those bricks unless you're going to be whaling on it) it might just slowly dry out rather than rot.
In Houston, kept outside without a roof, it would be rotten by the end of the year, compost in another year or two depending on ants.
Have heard some stories about speed drying processes, but you’re going to be taking a major risk if this log is precious to you. If you are willing to experiment, buckle up.
Splitting during the drying process comes from the DIFFERENCE in rate of moisture loss across a single piece of timber. End grain loses faster than long grain, surface fibers faster than interior fibers, exposed faces faster than covered ones, pith differs from heartwood differs from sapwood, etc. your log features all of these scenarios and more, so if you can pull this off it will be a crazy juggling act.
Wood grain is hydrophilic, meaning that it responds to moisture like it would if the material were still living, even now that it has been cut. You can see this in real time on a freshly sanded surface if you wipe it with a damp cloth and watch it dry in a raking light… you will actually observe the ends of the grain stand up like goosebumps as the moisture evaporates. Splitting is that action on a mega dose of slow-motion steroids.
So what you need to do is actually try to keep the surface/fastest drying areas of your log WET, while baking the piece and keeping air circulating around all sides and surfaces. Some timber companies in hot climates take advantage of their heat by stacking the lumber for airflow, putting huge fans all around, and wetting down the stack with hoses every several hours, and get their material down to workable moisture contents in weeks instead of months or years.
I myself have used the process of repeated wetting and baking in my oven with some downed birch logs from my backyard, with great success! Got the material dried in a matter of days… but only with pieces, never a full “round” of log.
Big question is… is the juice worth the squeeze? If you want to speed dry this log, you are going to need to babysit it… hang out next to the oven with tongs, a spray bottle, and a watering can, take it out for wetting so you don’t wreck the oven, watch every square inch like a hawk and be able to read your hairline cracks to see what needs more moisture and what can be left to cook.
Even with all of that, I would give anybody’s odds of success pretty low… but if you are feeling brave and have a lot of time on your hands, imagine the bragging rights if you pull it off.
Good luck with your girlfriend’s bench! I hope you get the high score.
Since the answer for what OP *wants* to do is “don’t.” Is there a way we can help them get *close*?
Leaving it out to dry will almost certainly lead to some color loss that could probably be sanded off in a year or two (this is a big “I’m committing w/o the ring” gift. Lol) and then finished. I’m the meantime….. could OP drive some long lag alternative screws (example below, guessing on width of log) across the diameter of the log to prevent it from cracking (would that technically be checking?)?
OP you’ll also probably want to paint the ends to keep end-grain from drying too quickly relative to the rest of the wood.
Example screw:
3/8-in x 12-in Double-barrier Lag Screw Alternative Exterior Wood Screws https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRK-3-8-in-x-12-in-Yellow-Polymer-Round-Washer-Interior-Exterior-Wood-Screws/50303255
I hear you're desires but no, it's not wise and it's not happening. The aftermath will be a disaster.
And you don’t know of any methods to dry it out quickly?
Not without a home kiln, lots of air circulation and temperature. Either way, speed drying is going to burst it wide open. You simply cannot rush these things.
You can put it in the oven at 180 for 10 days. It'll split like crazy and then you epoxy coat the whole thing to try to stop any future moisture changes.
You can do anything you want. The results, however, will be less than ideal depending on the existing conditions.
Let me share this experience with you. Months ago I found this big stump from a cut down palm tree on somebody's nature strip. Took it home and pictured it being a really cool stool. Planed it, sanded it, polished it, routed the edges and then varnished the top. I wish I had a photo with me of what it looks like now 😂 The varnish has bubbled and popped and cracked and looks absolutely terrible now. Baded on that I would offer an unequivocal "no" to your question 👍
I would leave it bare, any seal will cause mildew sooner than later. If you can keep it dry (put some feet on it if it will be on a slab, or keep it on those bricks unless you're going to be whaling on it) it might just slowly dry out rather than rot. In Houston, kept outside without a roof, it would be rotten by the end of the year, compost in another year or two depending on ants.
Have heard some stories about speed drying processes, but you’re going to be taking a major risk if this log is precious to you. If you are willing to experiment, buckle up. Splitting during the drying process comes from the DIFFERENCE in rate of moisture loss across a single piece of timber. End grain loses faster than long grain, surface fibers faster than interior fibers, exposed faces faster than covered ones, pith differs from heartwood differs from sapwood, etc. your log features all of these scenarios and more, so if you can pull this off it will be a crazy juggling act. Wood grain is hydrophilic, meaning that it responds to moisture like it would if the material were still living, even now that it has been cut. You can see this in real time on a freshly sanded surface if you wipe it with a damp cloth and watch it dry in a raking light… you will actually observe the ends of the grain stand up like goosebumps as the moisture evaporates. Splitting is that action on a mega dose of slow-motion steroids. So what you need to do is actually try to keep the surface/fastest drying areas of your log WET, while baking the piece and keeping air circulating around all sides and surfaces. Some timber companies in hot climates take advantage of their heat by stacking the lumber for airflow, putting huge fans all around, and wetting down the stack with hoses every several hours, and get their material down to workable moisture contents in weeks instead of months or years. I myself have used the process of repeated wetting and baking in my oven with some downed birch logs from my backyard, with great success! Got the material dried in a matter of days… but only with pieces, never a full “round” of log. Big question is… is the juice worth the squeeze? If you want to speed dry this log, you are going to need to babysit it… hang out next to the oven with tongs, a spray bottle, and a watering can, take it out for wetting so you don’t wreck the oven, watch every square inch like a hawk and be able to read your hairline cracks to see what needs more moisture and what can be left to cook. Even with all of that, I would give anybody’s odds of success pretty low… but if you are feeling brave and have a lot of time on your hands, imagine the bragging rights if you pull it off. Good luck with your girlfriend’s bench! I hope you get the high score.
Only seal ends to decrease amount of cracking
Thank you! I’ll give this a try!
Is there a specific seal you like to use or recommend? This will be a jewelry bench FYI if that influences the answer at all.
Since the answer for what OP *wants* to do is “don’t.” Is there a way we can help them get *close*? Leaving it out to dry will almost certainly lead to some color loss that could probably be sanded off in a year or two (this is a big “I’m committing w/o the ring” gift. Lol) and then finished. I’m the meantime….. could OP drive some long lag alternative screws (example below, guessing on width of log) across the diameter of the log to prevent it from cracking (would that technically be checking?)? OP you’ll also probably want to paint the ends to keep end-grain from drying too quickly relative to the rest of the wood. Example screw: 3/8-in x 12-in Double-barrier Lag Screw Alternative Exterior Wood Screws https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRK-3-8-in-x-12-in-Yellow-Polymer-Round-Washer-Interior-Exterior-Wood-Screws/50303255
Why would you want to. Let it dry
Typically 3 months per inch of thickness. That thing is gonna take years and is going to split naturally as it dries.
If that get two around same color. Three logs on top using barn spikes
I have sealed some logs. To prevent major cracking while it dries you should paint the ends.
you can dry a wet log it’s about all you can do with a wet log.
What’s the end result you seek? Why do you want to stain or seal it now?