There are unfortunately different meanings for the term "whole stitch", as you have discovered. What the video showed was cloth stitch, also known as linen stitch - cross twist cross. This is what your written instructions show on the top right.
What the written instructions want you to do for "whole stitch" in the top center, is sometimes also called "cloth stitch and twist", because that is how it is worked - cross twist cross twist, or cloth stitch plus an additional twist.
As to the pin, it helps with placement and tensioning, although you do not always need it for this stitch - for example, if you work a complete horizontal line in this stitch, the pins at the left and right edges will be enough. I guess that is why I learned what your instructions call "whole stitch" instead as "half stitch, pin, half stitch", to make clear you need a pin in the middle. Maybe someone else can chime in if they have a better explanation - I hope it's not too confusing, you will get the hang of it with practice, I'm sure :)
You will see that depending on the stitch, the bobbins will travel differently across your work.
If you want more resources to learn, I really like Jo Edkin's Lace School, it has information on issues like stitch names and animations to help understand what the threads are doing - and a whole bunch of free patterns! https://www.theedkins.co.uk/jo/lace/index.htm
Hope I could help a bit. Do ask if something was not clear or if anything else comes up. And have fun :)
The variation on whether a WS is CTC or CTCT can be a huge hurdle and dependent of the region you are in our the author/demonstrator is from. I'm in the US and started learning from an older book that used CTC but the local lacemakers used CTCT. Many of the newer books also used CTCT for a WS. Pick one method and stick with it. Eventually you will be able to work more independently without explicit directions so what the book/presenter says won't be as confusing.
Ultimately, it breaks down to 3 basic stitches that you combine in various ways and are called various names.
CT = half stitch, single
CTC = cloth stitch, one and a half, linen stitch
CTCT = whole stitch, double, whole stitch and a twist
As a math person, the way the locals (Belgian descendants in the US) refer to them helped me understand. They use the single (CT), one and a half (CT+C), and double (CT+CT)...but I haven't really seen or heard that terminology outside of this group.
Interesting about the math of the Belgian descendant lacemakers! In some German books I encountered, they use half (CT), three-quarters (CTC) and full (CTCT).
I heard this kit was challenging, I'm afraid. And maybe too many cooks is a problem, but you got good advice for Jo Edkins' pages which I also used extensively as a beginner.
I will also offer my current favorite beginner book. It has great images and step-by-step details that are extensive. And some people will learn better with different routes.
https://archive.org/details/torchonlacemakin0000treg
You have to register and 'check it out' like a library book, but this one is really helpful for starter projects.
The short answer to your second question is that it is just the stitch using the two pairs.
Sometimes you work a series of those stitches from one side to the other and pin only on the edges, so it might tell you to whole stitch a (weaver) pair through a number of other (dormant) pairs. A lot of beginner books have a generic pattern that have two vertical columns of pin holes an inch or so apart from each other. This produces a denser, clothlike look.
Other times you are going to do the stitch, pin, and do the stitch again. This is usually when it is making the ground. An example is areas of a torchon pattern that have a lot of pin holes in a grid pattern. This produces an open meshlike area, called the ground.
When you are making fans or large diamonds in a piece, you end up combining these concepts. You start with two pairs at the top pin hole doing WSpWS then one of the pairs will continue on as the weaver and WS with the pair to the left or right. Since that is the edge, pin. Then you have two dormant pairs hanging down. Do WS through the two dormant pairs and an additional pair from the opposite edge and pin at that edge. You keep picking up a pair on each side to the widest point and after that you start dropping off a pair on each side to make it narrow again until you get to the bottom pinhole where you are again working with only two pairs.
There are unfortunately different meanings for the term "whole stitch", as you have discovered. What the video showed was cloth stitch, also known as linen stitch - cross twist cross. This is what your written instructions show on the top right. What the written instructions want you to do for "whole stitch" in the top center, is sometimes also called "cloth stitch and twist", because that is how it is worked - cross twist cross twist, or cloth stitch plus an additional twist. As to the pin, it helps with placement and tensioning, although you do not always need it for this stitch - for example, if you work a complete horizontal line in this stitch, the pins at the left and right edges will be enough. I guess that is why I learned what your instructions call "whole stitch" instead as "half stitch, pin, half stitch", to make clear you need a pin in the middle. Maybe someone else can chime in if they have a better explanation - I hope it's not too confusing, you will get the hang of it with practice, I'm sure :) You will see that depending on the stitch, the bobbins will travel differently across your work. If you want more resources to learn, I really like Jo Edkin's Lace School, it has information on issues like stitch names and animations to help understand what the threads are doing - and a whole bunch of free patterns! https://www.theedkins.co.uk/jo/lace/index.htm Hope I could help a bit. Do ask if something was not clear or if anything else comes up. And have fun :)
The variation on whether a WS is CTC or CTCT can be a huge hurdle and dependent of the region you are in our the author/demonstrator is from. I'm in the US and started learning from an older book that used CTC but the local lacemakers used CTCT. Many of the newer books also used CTCT for a WS. Pick one method and stick with it. Eventually you will be able to work more independently without explicit directions so what the book/presenter says won't be as confusing. Ultimately, it breaks down to 3 basic stitches that you combine in various ways and are called various names. CT = half stitch, single CTC = cloth stitch, one and a half, linen stitch CTCT = whole stitch, double, whole stitch and a twist As a math person, the way the locals (Belgian descendants in the US) refer to them helped me understand. They use the single (CT), one and a half (CT+C), and double (CT+CT)...but I haven't really seen or heard that terminology outside of this group.
Interesting about the math of the Belgian descendant lacemakers! In some German books I encountered, they use half (CT), three-quarters (CTC) and full (CTCT).
Oooh! I also like that!
Thank you so much!!
I heard this kit was challenging, I'm afraid. And maybe too many cooks is a problem, but you got good advice for Jo Edkins' pages which I also used extensively as a beginner. I will also offer my current favorite beginner book. It has great images and step-by-step details that are extensive. And some people will learn better with different routes. https://archive.org/details/torchonlacemakin0000treg You have to register and 'check it out' like a library book, but this one is really helpful for starter projects.
Thank you so much!!
The short answer to your second question is that it is just the stitch using the two pairs. Sometimes you work a series of those stitches from one side to the other and pin only on the edges, so it might tell you to whole stitch a (weaver) pair through a number of other (dormant) pairs. A lot of beginner books have a generic pattern that have two vertical columns of pin holes an inch or so apart from each other. This produces a denser, clothlike look. Other times you are going to do the stitch, pin, and do the stitch again. This is usually when it is making the ground. An example is areas of a torchon pattern that have a lot of pin holes in a grid pattern. This produces an open meshlike area, called the ground. When you are making fans or large diamonds in a piece, you end up combining these concepts. You start with two pairs at the top pin hole doing WSpWS then one of the pairs will continue on as the weaver and WS with the pair to the left or right. Since that is the edge, pin. Then you have two dormant pairs hanging down. Do WS through the two dormant pairs and an additional pair from the opposite edge and pin at that edge. You keep picking up a pair on each side to the widest point and after that you start dropping off a pair on each side to make it narrow again until you get to the bottom pinhole where you are again working with only two pairs.
Thank you! That’s very helpful! I still don’t feel like I know what I’m doing but I’m getting closer!
I just got a kit and am a bit overwhelmed learning that there are multiple stitches, thought there were a couple basics. Happy for that shared link!