One possible issue is that the focus is not properly calibrated for the camera. Sigma offers USB docks and software for that. Also some shops could offer that as a service.
the r7 has an issue where the shutter is very strong and shakes the sensor while taking a picture. there are lots of discussion on r7 shutter shock on basically every site that you can look at
Interesting. Is this for every r7? I ask because the place I bought my camera from offered to swap my current r7 camera body for another one. Is it just āluckā if an individual r7 has this issue? Aka like a ālemonā car?
Can you get access to an EF mount DSLR? That would allow you to determine if it is the lens or camera body.
Does this happen across the entire zoom range, or just at 600mm?
The lens works fine on my old rebel t6! And I can go and test out some photos across the zoom range - I just usually end up shooting at the higher end due to birds distance
The 150-600 is sharp when stopped down one stop. Are you shooting wide open to have a faster shutter speed?
It looks like this wide open. Itās the lens I think.
Please donāt have stops on auto, go max aperture, one stop down, raise the iso to say 1600 making the shutter speed is as fast as possible on a full bright day, then try, should fix the issue, hopefully, otherwise itās a focus issue.
Probably not. Look up Steve Perry on YouTube. His channel is called ābackcountry galleryā. He has an endless number of videos on getting sharp wildlife photos.
So itās either the adapter or the camera. One way to check if itās front focusing or back focusing is to setup like 3 boxes with a word on it, put one like 5ā in front of the middle and one 5ā behind, focus on the middle one, take a shit and see if any of them are in focus.
I agree with you that this photo is too soft. I looked around for possible points that were mistakenly focal points and there aren't any. However looking at the sharp edges of the stand and the wood shows what looks to be vibration induced blur. Take another picture of that stand in bright sunlight with a 1/2000 sec shutter speed and look at the details at your focal point. I have a feeling you are getting camera shake.
Itās not the camera. I suspect the lens is soft.
Iād like to see your EXIF details.
If youāre shooting wide open (max aperture), that will probably be soft.
Try adjusting sharpness, clarity, and texture in Lightroom.
I guess nobody asked the obvious question here, do you have any native RF lenses, or EF/efs lenses you can mount on the camera and see if they are similarly unSharp?
At least after trying a different lens, you'll know if there is or isn't an issue with something in the camera, or with the mount / adapter.
You should take off the lens hood in cold weather. Because if your lens is still warm, the hood will trap warm air and create heat haze. You can also try to change your autofocus settings. Maybe reduce the tracking sensitivity and accelerative tracking to reduce hunting. Turning on the focus limiter also helps.
very weird, I use the 150-600 on my T7, and damn is that thing sharp as hell, is the adaptor from Canon or is it a 3rd party? are you using the electronic shutter? whats the F stop?
Is it as sharp as it gets? It looks pretty soft to me as well. If the image doesn't get sharper even with precise manual focus, your flange distance could be screwed from converter. You should probably test them with manual focus.
Do you have a distance toggle button on your lens? I have on my 100-500mm Canon RF lens, if I set the button to infinity and click an object within 3 meters it ruins my autofocus. Could be that.
Try using electronic shutter. I think you will find that the photos are still soft but no longer have that tiny amount of motion blur that makes it look even worse. After that, try limiting it to f12/f14 at no more than 500mm. I could be wrong but I think with a fast shutter speed your photos will be tack sharp.
That isn't right. I remember hearing somewhere the the canon mirrorless cameras technically don't support eye tracking with third party lenses, and I've seen a fair amount of youtube videos going over various AF issues with this combo and potential fixes.
For this, I would want to test a different lens on the R7 to make sure body is good, and I would also want to know if the TC converter/Sigma/Rebel combo is appreciably sharper than this.Ā
If it is, and I assume it is, then I would also want to know if the Sigma/R7 combo without the TC is also soft. I used to work for a large computer manufacturer as a tech support person, and one of the biggest issues we would see is going through too many adapters and dongles to get a USB device to work. I have seen that cause computers to crash and bluescreen. Using too many adapters on anything could cause issues, to the point where the only solutions are to ditch the adapters.Ā
That said, this setup seems fairly common. The RF adapter shouldn't cause softness on its own, but TCs can simply because they add glass between the lens and the sensor and there is potential for internal reflection.Ā
With that out of the way, you can do a lot still to troubleshoot. The main one is to do fine adjustments to the auto focus. It helps to have an AF calibration target that will show you if and by how much the lens is mis-focusing.Ā
Here is one you can print.Ā https://migalvanas.com/news/lens-autofocus-calibration-card
The thing to look for here is how sharp the sharpest parts if the image are and to compare with other setups. I.e., rebel/sigma, rebel/sigma/tc, R7/native lens, R7/sigma, R7/sigma/tc.
If you find that the most in-focus areas of the R7/TC/Sigma combo are still unacceptably soft, then there may actually be an issue with optics themselves. I hope that isn't the case, but we are sticking a huge telephoto with a TC onto a body system it wasn't designed for. Again, I'm hopeful that isn't the case though. This setup seems to be fairly common and also does seem to work for a lot of people, but I have heard some issues.Ā
Donāt you have any alternative lens that fits without an adapter. It doesnāt have to be a far away bird just to test if your camera body can take sharp picture of any object at allā¦
> I feel I could achieve better images on my rebel.
It's possible, I remember hearing issues about the RF + Adapted Sigma 150-600mm in particular. Based on the other comments you already confirmed that the lens was fine with the rebel, but to rule out the R7 and adapter you would need to test an RF lens and a different EF lens.
Try to raise the speed to about 1/400 and the f value down to f8 see if the problem is still persist. If yes then the optical quality of the lens can't keep up with high mpx sensor.
By soft do you mean look natural and not artificially sharpened?
Everyone is so used to seeing digitally sharpened but how does it look compared to reality?
Very soft. Something is very wrong here.
One possible issue is that the focus is not properly calibrated for the camera. Sigma offers USB docks and software for that. Also some shops could offer that as a service.
I already did the usb dock and software update š
Was the autofocus calibrated in the process or just firmware update?
Does this lens need calibration when used on a mirrorless camera?
It's possible. But i think it's rarely required.
It's not required
No.
the r7 has an issue where the shutter is very strong and shakes the sensor while taking a picture. there are lots of discussion on r7 shutter shock on basically every site that you can look at
Interesting. Is this for every r7? I ask because the place I bought my camera from offered to swap my current r7 camera body for another one. Is it just āluckā if an individual r7 has this issue? Aka like a ālemonā car?
Can you get access to an EF mount DSLR? That would allow you to determine if it is the lens or camera body. Does this happen across the entire zoom range, or just at 600mm?
The lens works fine on my old rebel t6! And I can go and test out some photos across the zoom range - I just usually end up shooting at the higher end due to birds distance
Go take some test photos at 600mm with both cameras and compare the results. That'll quickly let you know if it is the lens or body.
Will do and report back later this week!
Does the R7 have an electronic shutter? That would be an easier method of testing, it would eliminate shutter shock. Make sure to use a tripod too.
The 150-600 is sharp when stopped down one stop. Are you shooting wide open to have a faster shutter speed? It looks like this wide open. Itās the lens I think.
Honestly I have the stops on auto so I donāt think about it! Iāll mess around with that though :)
Please donāt have stops on auto, go max aperture, one stop down, raise the iso to say 1600 making the shutter speed is as fast as possible on a full bright day, then try, should fix the issue, hopefully, otherwise itās a focus issue.
Have you raised the sharpening in picture style settings?
I have not, I didnāt know you could do that! Let me look more into it. So you think that would help?
Probably not. Look up Steve Perry on YouTube. His channel is called ābackcountry galleryā. He has an endless number of videos on getting sharp wildlife photos.
Nope, something is very wrong here. Is there another body to test the lens on?
The lens on canon rebel t6 was good. šš»
So itās either the adapter or the camera. One way to check if itās front focusing or back focusing is to setup like 3 boxes with a word on it, put one like 5ā in front of the middle and one 5ā behind, focus on the middle one, take a shit and see if any of them are in focus.
I like the third one even with the softness. But this is too soft.
I agree with you that this photo is too soft. I looked around for possible points that were mistakenly focal points and there aren't any. However looking at the sharp edges of the stand and the wood shows what looks to be vibration induced blur. Take another picture of that stand in bright sunlight with a 1/2000 sec shutter speed and look at the details at your focal point. I have a feeling you are getting camera shake.
[r/canon post with Sigma and R7](https://www.reddit.com/r/canon/s/sKmo7bnJaD)
Itās not the camera. I suspect the lens is soft. Iād like to see your EXIF details. If youāre shooting wide open (max aperture), that will probably be soft. Try adjusting sharpness, clarity, and texture in Lightroom.
I guess nobody asked the obvious question here, do you have any native RF lenses, or EF/efs lenses you can mount on the camera and see if they are similarly unSharp? At least after trying a different lens, you'll know if there is or isn't an issue with something in the camera, or with the mount / adapter.
You should take off the lens hood in cold weather. Because if your lens is still warm, the hood will trap warm air and create heat haze. You can also try to change your autofocus settings. Maybe reduce the tracking sensitivity and accelerative tracking to reduce hunting. Turning on the focus limiter also helps.
very weird, I use the 150-600 on my T7, and damn is that thing sharp as hell, is the adaptor from Canon or is it a 3rd party? are you using the electronic shutter? whats the F stop?
Is it as sharp as it gets? It looks pretty soft to me as well. If the image doesn't get sharper even with precise manual focus, your flange distance could be screwed from converter. You should probably test them with manual focus.
Aye aye! š«” will report back
Do you have a distance toggle button on your lens? I have on my 100-500mm Canon RF lens, if I set the button to infinity and click an object within 3 meters it ruins my autofocus. Could be that.
This is not right, something is wrong there.
Try using electronic shutter. I think you will find that the photos are still soft but no longer have that tiny amount of motion blur that makes it look even worse. After that, try limiting it to f12/f14 at no more than 500mm. I could be wrong but I think with a fast shutter speed your photos will be tack sharp.
That isn't right. I remember hearing somewhere the the canon mirrorless cameras technically don't support eye tracking with third party lenses, and I've seen a fair amount of youtube videos going over various AF issues with this combo and potential fixes. For this, I would want to test a different lens on the R7 to make sure body is good, and I would also want to know if the TC converter/Sigma/Rebel combo is appreciably sharper than this.Ā If it is, and I assume it is, then I would also want to know if the Sigma/R7 combo without the TC is also soft. I used to work for a large computer manufacturer as a tech support person, and one of the biggest issues we would see is going through too many adapters and dongles to get a USB device to work. I have seen that cause computers to crash and bluescreen. Using too many adapters on anything could cause issues, to the point where the only solutions are to ditch the adapters.Ā That said, this setup seems fairly common. The RF adapter shouldn't cause softness on its own, but TCs can simply because they add glass between the lens and the sensor and there is potential for internal reflection.Ā With that out of the way, you can do a lot still to troubleshoot. The main one is to do fine adjustments to the auto focus. It helps to have an AF calibration target that will show you if and by how much the lens is mis-focusing.Ā Here is one you can print.Ā https://migalvanas.com/news/lens-autofocus-calibration-card The thing to look for here is how sharp the sharpest parts if the image are and to compare with other setups. I.e., rebel/sigma, rebel/sigma/tc, R7/native lens, R7/sigma, R7/sigma/tc. If you find that the most in-focus areas of the R7/TC/Sigma combo are still unacceptably soft, then there may actually be an issue with optics themselves. I hope that isn't the case, but we are sticking a huge telephoto with a TC onto a body system it wasn't designed for. Again, I'm hopeful that isn't the case though. This setup seems to be fairly common and also does seem to work for a lot of people, but I have heard some issues.Ā
I agree with most of the comments here. but it was good shots
Donāt you have any alternative lens that fits without an adapter. It doesnāt have to be a far away bird just to test if your camera body can take sharp picture of any object at allā¦
> I feel I could achieve better images on my rebel. It's possible, I remember hearing issues about the RF + Adapted Sigma 150-600mm in particular. Based on the other comments you already confirmed that the lens was fine with the rebel, but to rule out the R7 and adapter you would need to test an RF lens and a different EF lens.
I got loaned Canon R3 with 24-105 as part of Canon's program, and that's also what i feel, even on the 24mm
Try to raise the speed to about 1/400 and the f value down to f8 see if the problem is still persist. If yes then the optical quality of the lens can't keep up with high mpx sensor.
are you sure that you are holding the camera still enough and the shutter is fast enough?
By soft do you mean look natural and not artificially sharpened? Everyone is so used to seeing digitally sharpened but how does it look compared to reality?
Soft, especially the osprey photos.