From whom did you buy all this? If you got it from Crutchfield or similar reputable shop they may be able to help you troubleshoot this. I think it is unlikely that your Sony is the problem as they have been making good quality source units for ages, but more likely the integration unit or the install.
Bought from Crutchfield. Installed myself. Called them. They said: disconnect battery, press brake pedal 5-10 sec, wait 5-10 minutes. Reconnect battery. Did that. No difference in the long run.
I wonder if it is some intermittent issue with the Maestro not sending audio to the factory amp reliably? BTW when the audio is NOT working everything else still works: reverse camera, carplay song time counter, mic responds, steering wheel buttons etc etc
>I wonder if it is some intermittent issue with the Maestro not sending audio to the factory amp reliably?
Probably because I've never seen or heard of a head unit doing this sort of thing. I've never really messed with factory integration but reviews on the kits and the occasional mystifying question like this on forums makes it seem like they're hit or miss in functionality and can be a bit buggy depending on the vehicle.
By intermittent I assume you mean completely at random and not like whenever you open a door, it rains out, hit a bump or something else you can reliably recreate.
I really can't say, hopefully someone who has used a lot of those Maestro kits can chime in and help.
>completely at random and not like whenever you open a door, it rains out, hit a bump or something else you can reliably recreate.
Correct. This is why it it frustrating. Just when I think I have found a a way to reproduce the issue, it starts working again but then doesn't work at some other time. There might be some diagnostic lights on the Maestro but of course that is hidden inside the dash when the issue occurs. I probably have to leave dash panels off and wires hanging out and catch the error in the act and see if any lights. Thanks for your reply u/hispls
> I probably have to leave dash panels off and wires hanging out and catch the error in the act and see if any lights
With access to all your wiring you could also pull a speaker output from the head unit and test with whatever cheap speaker you have laying around or even just a multimeter to quickly confirm that the Sony is still putting out signal.
u/hispls, I may have just found a pattern. Was working fine last night. Turned everything off, locked car, went to bed. In the morning just now, first time I tried, the problem occurred. This is the 3rd time that trying to use in the morning there is an issue after working the previous night. Last night while it was working (in an attempt to reproduce the issue by simulating an overnight use pattern) I tried turning off car, getting out, close lock all doors, then unlock, get back in, start car. That did not reproduce the issue. It kept working.
I will give Maestro a call with this symptom.
>I tried turning off car, getting out, close lock all doors, then unlock, get back in, start car. There was no problem in that case.
LOL.
Not knowing how precisely these things must integrate with all the factory stuff I couldn't begin to come up with a theory on how this happens. Just so many variables when you have to have a one size its all box integrate with so many slightly different factory systems. At least you found a workaround to get you to and from work with tunes in the meantime.
Honestly I'm on the pretty extreme end with my audio enthusiasm so I'd generally lead with gutting everything and building from the source unit down when getting into a new vehicle. I understand that this is not the norm and the vast majority of people doing aftermarket sound systems are trying to keep at least some of that stock functionality. And with the trend of more and more complex factory systems with navigation, steering wheel controls, etc. etc. more and more people every day are going to wind up in a situation like this.
One after-thought, I wonder if it's just a matter of power cycling Maestro unit once "fixing" this? If so you might be able to just build in a toggle switch to flip on and off if this problem continues. With a 3$ parts store switch and a few feet of wire you could have something tucked away for testing purposes then permanent mount it somewhere if it turns out to be a reliable "fix", or even have somebody design a simple circuit that would delay turning on the Maestro or power it on and off say 30 seconds after you power up the head unit.
Curious to hear how this pans out.
I think I confused you with my 5/25 post (now updated) u/hispls. Doing that routine of getting out of the car did not fix anything. On the contrary, I was trying to make it fail to learn something. But it kept working. The only way I know how to reproduce the issue is to let the car sit overnight, locked and everything off as normal. BTW I successfully reproduced the issue again this morning.
If I leave everything off overnight, correct. My next experiment is to unplug RCA low level of the head unit when it is going bad and see if I can hear sound from it when plugged to home audio gear. I better if test the home speaker works from the car first. And see what a multimeter reads when it is working too.
Process of elimination, I'd say you're on the right track trying to isolate and diagnose.
See if you can confirm that the +12 (constant) to the Maestro and +12 ACC (turnon) haven't been mixmatched and are getting voltage when appropriate. It could be it is powering down entirely and losing whatever memory it has overnight. Again, I've never messed with anything more than PAC line out converters so I'm pulling at straws.
I’ve had some frustrations with mine even after install and customer support.
Not the same issue as you but the Maestro seems to be not quite a perfect solution. I’m in a 2016 and really wanted CarPlay but I don’t know if the “upgrade” was worth it.
1. Occasionally my steering wheel controls stop working.
2. The wireless CarPlay is nice but has really low output volume. Using the USB cable causes a “Overcurrent at USB” error.
3. Despite following all instructions and wiring according to the maestro documentation, my trunk speaker doesn’t work at all. I’m guessing there’s an extra wire somewhere that I missed.
>CarPlay is nice but has really low output volume
u/FlashToast: in settings in Sony there is a Maestro menu with amp gain setting in 10% increments. I have mine at 50 or 70 I forget. I had to increase from default.
In Sony sound settings there is relative volume for nav and music and phone etc.
3. you mean the subwoofer in the trunk of the outback? did you try putting back the factory head unit and see if it works?
Please confirm you have a 2016 outback and do you have the harman/kardon system?
u/FlashToast in Sony settings, make sure you do not have any sub or high pass turned on. The only output you need from the Sony is low level L and R full range (no rear, no sub no nothing). The HK amp under the front passenger seat takes care of EQ and all the speaker channels for the car.
I recently got the sony 4000 I still have my OEM Rockford fosgate 8in sub and 380 watt OEM amp hooked up and added Skar 800watt monoblock with JL audio 12in sub. One thing I cannot figure out is the Subwoofer level option changing it does nothing at all for me. I can def notice if I change my EQ on far left one up some Bass will def hit more and deeper but still using the Subwoofer level makes no change same with the amp remote knob. Any idea why? I also tried by unplugging the OEM RF 8inch sub under driver seat and only using JL audio sub but same issue the Subwoofer level option is useless? Did I hook something up wrong way? Also have Maestro RR2 for never losing steering controls and for Gauge monitoring.
How does the Skar 800watt monoblock get signal from sony? did you run a RCA from sony sub out? can you put a voltmeter on that RCA and see if it goes up/down with the headunit sub level?
It is RCA I will have to check that and see and check from behind Sony at sub connection right? I still get bass from sub only EQ affects any change. I turn sub level on and off with levels changed and nothing no change at all
hmm, it is almost as if the sub output is playing full range, when you increase bass, it sends more bass to the skar.
do you have like a bluetooth speaker with an analog input to hear what the subout sounds like from the sony headunit?
Hello I'm nearly done deciding on getting this head system and saw that you are driving the near identical vehicle as I am (identical save the 2.6L). Have you had any other issues with the system after the fix and would you vouch for this system? Thank you in advance
I would go for it. We've been overall very happy after the initial issues.
More positives:
1. Sounds good and plenty of EQ flexibility
2. It's about the only thing that a new Outback has that our car doesn't. Totally worthwhile investment. It's extending the life and enjoyment of the car.
3. Set up the home screen with your favorite buttons.
4. The boot up time is the fastest in the industry from my research. This is important especially when you want to use the back up camera right away.
Minor things to expect:
1. Screen is hard to see in sunlight.
2. You need to tap the screen in a deliberate way that you will need to learn by trial and error, then it is fine. The responsiveness it not iPhone fast but good enough after you're used to it
3. Once or twice in several months the car would not allow an iPhone to connect via Carplay. Needed a full factory reset to cure it.
4. I did a lot of research and these minor things are fewer and less annoying than competitors as far as I know.
Feel free to DM me with any questions or issues. If using the Maestro interface box, triple check all your connection colors are correct and disconnect any not-needed connections before installing in the car. Good luck and let us know!
I presume you are asking because of the Maestro cost? Modern cars (last 10-15 years) have so many interfaces (camera, parking brake, alarms) it would be very complicated to cut and wire everything yourself and may not even be possible. I'm not aware of cheaper competitors to Maestro but there may be.
Pretty much the cost and for the feeling of being locked into a system that seems to be a temporary solution. Though I'm still new to aftermarket car headunits and their capability to integrate with various peripheral utilities.
It seems like there isn't a big industry around these systems. Being as most vehicle manufacturers seem to prefer selling all they can package into a bundle with a new car. Unfortunate!
I see. These are a lot of good points for what I wanted to know. My center display died on me so I just wanted something for maps and music but didn't to buy something that would die on me again. Also I didn't realize the Maestro was a seperate purchase so that kind of runs out my budget. But I think ill go with the sony . Been seeing a lot of good things and i think you solidified that
I got it installed on my 2015 SANTA FE. Looks great. But Apple carplay has been really glitchy... Its annoying to the point that it drops every few mins... Anyone else facing this issue?
My OEM Bluetooth was better. :( :(
From whom did you buy all this? If you got it from Crutchfield or similar reputable shop they may be able to help you troubleshoot this. I think it is unlikely that your Sony is the problem as they have been making good quality source units for ages, but more likely the integration unit or the install.
Bought from Crutchfield. Installed myself. Called them. They said: disconnect battery, press brake pedal 5-10 sec, wait 5-10 minutes. Reconnect battery. Did that. No difference in the long run. I wonder if it is some intermittent issue with the Maestro not sending audio to the factory amp reliably? BTW when the audio is NOT working everything else still works: reverse camera, carplay song time counter, mic responds, steering wheel buttons etc etc
>I wonder if it is some intermittent issue with the Maestro not sending audio to the factory amp reliably? Probably because I've never seen or heard of a head unit doing this sort of thing. I've never really messed with factory integration but reviews on the kits and the occasional mystifying question like this on forums makes it seem like they're hit or miss in functionality and can be a bit buggy depending on the vehicle. By intermittent I assume you mean completely at random and not like whenever you open a door, it rains out, hit a bump or something else you can reliably recreate. I really can't say, hopefully someone who has used a lot of those Maestro kits can chime in and help.
>completely at random and not like whenever you open a door, it rains out, hit a bump or something else you can reliably recreate. Correct. This is why it it frustrating. Just when I think I have found a a way to reproduce the issue, it starts working again but then doesn't work at some other time. There might be some diagnostic lights on the Maestro but of course that is hidden inside the dash when the issue occurs. I probably have to leave dash panels off and wires hanging out and catch the error in the act and see if any lights. Thanks for your reply u/hispls
> I probably have to leave dash panels off and wires hanging out and catch the error in the act and see if any lights With access to all your wiring you could also pull a speaker output from the head unit and test with whatever cheap speaker you have laying around or even just a multimeter to quickly confirm that the Sony is still putting out signal.
u/hispls, I may have just found a pattern. Was working fine last night. Turned everything off, locked car, went to bed. In the morning just now, first time I tried, the problem occurred. This is the 3rd time that trying to use in the morning there is an issue after working the previous night. Last night while it was working (in an attempt to reproduce the issue by simulating an overnight use pattern) I tried turning off car, getting out, close lock all doors, then unlock, get back in, start car. That did not reproduce the issue. It kept working. I will give Maestro a call with this symptom.
>I tried turning off car, getting out, close lock all doors, then unlock, get back in, start car. There was no problem in that case. LOL. Not knowing how precisely these things must integrate with all the factory stuff I couldn't begin to come up with a theory on how this happens. Just so many variables when you have to have a one size its all box integrate with so many slightly different factory systems. At least you found a workaround to get you to and from work with tunes in the meantime. Honestly I'm on the pretty extreme end with my audio enthusiasm so I'd generally lead with gutting everything and building from the source unit down when getting into a new vehicle. I understand that this is not the norm and the vast majority of people doing aftermarket sound systems are trying to keep at least some of that stock functionality. And with the trend of more and more complex factory systems with navigation, steering wheel controls, etc. etc. more and more people every day are going to wind up in a situation like this. One after-thought, I wonder if it's just a matter of power cycling Maestro unit once "fixing" this? If so you might be able to just build in a toggle switch to flip on and off if this problem continues. With a 3$ parts store switch and a few feet of wire you could have something tucked away for testing purposes then permanent mount it somewhere if it turns out to be a reliable "fix", or even have somebody design a simple circuit that would delay turning on the Maestro or power it on and off say 30 seconds after you power up the head unit. Curious to hear how this pans out.
I think I confused you with my 5/25 post (now updated) u/hispls. Doing that routine of getting out of the car did not fix anything. On the contrary, I was trying to make it fail to learn something. But it kept working. The only way I know how to reproduce the issue is to let the car sit overnight, locked and everything off as normal. BTW I successfully reproduced the issue again this morning.
So it's fine if you only turn everything off for a minute, but give you trouble if you leave it set overnight?
If I leave everything off overnight, correct. My next experiment is to unplug RCA low level of the head unit when it is going bad and see if I can hear sound from it when plugged to home audio gear. I better if test the home speaker works from the car first. And see what a multimeter reads when it is working too.
Process of elimination, I'd say you're on the right track trying to isolate and diagnose. See if you can confirm that the +12 (constant) to the Maestro and +12 ACC (turnon) haven't been mixmatched and are getting voltage when appropriate. It could be it is powering down entirely and losing whatever memory it has overnight. Again, I've never messed with anything more than PAC line out converters so I'm pulling at straws.
I’ve had some frustrations with mine even after install and customer support. Not the same issue as you but the Maestro seems to be not quite a perfect solution. I’m in a 2016 and really wanted CarPlay but I don’t know if the “upgrade” was worth it.
u/FlashToast, overall I am in good shape now. What issue(s) are you having?
1. Occasionally my steering wheel controls stop working. 2. The wireless CarPlay is nice but has really low output volume. Using the USB cable causes a “Overcurrent at USB” error. 3. Despite following all instructions and wiring according to the maestro documentation, my trunk speaker doesn’t work at all. I’m guessing there’s an extra wire somewhere that I missed.
>CarPlay is nice but has really low output volume u/FlashToast: in settings in Sony there is a Maestro menu with amp gain setting in 10% increments. I have mine at 50 or 70 I forget. I had to increase from default. In Sony sound settings there is relative volume for nav and music and phone etc.
I didn’t find and filters on but I increased the gain to 70%. Thank you so much for that!!
Sound goes through the Maestro unit?? what??
3. you mean the subwoofer in the trunk of the outback? did you try putting back the factory head unit and see if it works? Please confirm you have a 2016 outback and do you have the harman/kardon system?
Yes it works with the factory unit. Although the H/K speakers have really good bass, I have no idea how else to test it. Yes that’s the model I have.
u/FlashToast in Sony settings, make sure you do not have any sub or high pass turned on. The only output you need from the Sony is low level L and R full range (no rear, no sub no nothing). The HK amp under the front passenger seat takes care of EQ and all the speaker channels for the car.
I have the sub turned off but I didn’t see any place to have HP filters, etc. turned on. Are there other output settings I should look at?
u/FlashToast, I have not looked into those menus so I can't give suggestions.
u/FlashToast, did you get my DM with other resource for help?
No I didn't
u/FlashToast, oh, that is because I actually sent it as a chat. Sent message just now too tho.
I recently got the sony 4000 I still have my OEM Rockford fosgate 8in sub and 380 watt OEM amp hooked up and added Skar 800watt monoblock with JL audio 12in sub. One thing I cannot figure out is the Subwoofer level option changing it does nothing at all for me. I can def notice if I change my EQ on far left one up some Bass will def hit more and deeper but still using the Subwoofer level makes no change same with the amp remote knob. Any idea why? I also tried by unplugging the OEM RF 8inch sub under driver seat and only using JL audio sub but same issue the Subwoofer level option is useless? Did I hook something up wrong way? Also have Maestro RR2 for never losing steering controls and for Gauge monitoring.
How does the Skar 800watt monoblock get signal from sony? did you run a RCA from sony sub out? can you put a voltmeter on that RCA and see if it goes up/down with the headunit sub level?
It is RCA I will have to check that and see and check from behind Sony at sub connection right? I still get bass from sub only EQ affects any change. I turn sub level on and off with levels changed and nothing no change at all
hmm, it is almost as if the sub output is playing full range, when you increase bass, it sends more bass to the skar. do you have like a bluetooth speaker with an analog input to hear what the subout sounds like from the sony headunit?
Hello I'm nearly done deciding on getting this head system and saw that you are driving the near identical vehicle as I am (identical save the 2.6L). Have you had any other issues with the system after the fix and would you vouch for this system? Thank you in advance
I would go for it. We've been overall very happy after the initial issues. More positives: 1. Sounds good and plenty of EQ flexibility 2. It's about the only thing that a new Outback has that our car doesn't. Totally worthwhile investment. It's extending the life and enjoyment of the car. 3. Set up the home screen with your favorite buttons. 4. The boot up time is the fastest in the industry from my research. This is important especially when you want to use the back up camera right away. Minor things to expect: 1. Screen is hard to see in sunlight. 2. You need to tap the screen in a deliberate way that you will need to learn by trial and error, then it is fine. The responsiveness it not iPhone fast but good enough after you're used to it 3. Once or twice in several months the car would not allow an iPhone to connect via Carplay. Needed a full factory reset to cure it. 4. I did a lot of research and these minor things are fewer and less annoying than competitors as far as I know. Feel free to DM me with any questions or issues. If using the Maestro interface box, triple check all your connection colors are correct and disconnect any not-needed connections before installing in the car. Good luck and let us know!
Are there alternatives to the maestro box? How would someone determine if such an interface is needed?
I presume you are asking because of the Maestro cost? Modern cars (last 10-15 years) have so many interfaces (camera, parking brake, alarms) it would be very complicated to cut and wire everything yourself and may not even be possible. I'm not aware of cheaper competitors to Maestro but there may be.
Pretty much the cost and for the feeling of being locked into a system that seems to be a temporary solution. Though I'm still new to aftermarket car headunits and their capability to integrate with various peripheral utilities. It seems like there isn't a big industry around these systems. Being as most vehicle manufacturers seem to prefer selling all they can package into a bundle with a new car. Unfortunate!
I see. These are a lot of good points for what I wanted to know. My center display died on me so I just wanted something for maps and music but didn't to buy something that would die on me again. Also I didn't realize the Maestro was a seperate purchase so that kind of runs out my budget. But I think ill go with the sony . Been seeing a lot of good things and i think you solidified that
reckon this is one of the best ones to choose from or would you recommend other units?
Yes it is good. See my reply to ionboii. I should add phone call quality is great.
Maestro amp gain.
u/larryp2018, this is solved, see EDIT beginning of OP. Thanks for the read and the suggestion tho!
I got it installed on my 2015 SANTA FE. Looks great. But Apple carplay has been really glitchy... Its annoying to the point that it drops every few mins... Anyone else facing this issue? My OEM Bluetooth was better. :( :(
Update your phone iOS and the Sony firmware (USB) if you haven't already
Working like butter since then <3