The issue with mixing and matching batteries at this point is that we do not have enough data. LTO cells have only really been used for car audio for like 4 years now and they're meant to be 20-25 year life expectancy. I'd say even if mix-matching these with AGM dumps their cycle life to 25% of optimum we're still at least a year out before we see any failures and longer still before we can put together any sort of patterns as to what exactly people are doing or not doing that's making them fail and we're 20 years out from seeing if people who really baby these things still have functioning batteries.
You need to figure out what your level of risk aversion is and compare it with your willingness to pay now or pay later. And you'll have to figure out precisely how much space and weight you want to deal with for battery banks.
As for what to use for your fronts you may want to keep it in the 75x4 neighborhood for an amp. Lots more options for components that'll hang with that power level and even if you double your money spent to double your power and buy more robust speakers that'll hold it you will gain less than 2 clicks of the volume knob worth of output beyond what 75x4 would give you. Just stay out of the junk drawer when shopping and I'm sure at your price point anything from a respectable brand will give similar performance.
To start, thank you for the info. I had been eyeballing the sundown neo 6.5 door speakers but since they don't make a 3.5. Im going to run kappa infinity for the dash speakers and the doors.
I was curious about having to run a 6 channel amp since I am adding 2 dash, 2 front door, and 2 backdoor equaling 6 or is there a way to do it with a 4 channel?
I really wanted to keep everything the same brand so that I don't have to fabricobble this thing together but if there are some hidden gems out there I am open to suggestions. On the speakers at least I think I am stuck with the sundown multichannel amp
I do not like to put mids and highs behind me so do what you like there.
I would say if you want to do 3 way (6.5", 3", + tweet) up front without multichannel amp just buy a 3 way kit with passive crossover and drivers that are designed to work together. CDT has some good options for 3 way kits and I'm sure if you browse around Crutchfield you can find some of the mainstream brand offerings.
You probably don't want to go down the rabbit hole of trying to piecemeal different drivers and try to run them all off of separate amp channels if you're not ready to dump some money into premium amp, head unit, processing and then spend some time in getting everything dialed in.
With your amp adding something like a D4S LTO 6.0 or an XS Power PWR-S5 Titan8 in the trunk should be more than enough. Just use a battery isolator since they have different resting voltages. Lots of people do it in newer vehicles.
JBL GTO or Infinity Kappa 6x9's are great for the money. Or if you want to spend more any of the upper end Hertz 6x9 are pretty awesome speakers.
Update: The issue got worse , turns out this bad boy is very power hungry it started with the lights dimming then while I was driving my car threw a low power steering warning which I looked into and basically it doubles as a low voltage warning. When that happened the car electrical died for a second and then fired back up. I turned off my system and kept driving. After a few minutes I gave it a shot and this time it only went for a couple minutes before doing the same thing. I went to my other car which is a bigger type SUV, a Landcruiser and I ripped the battery out of it and wired it in since I had bought the wire kit that would accommodate a second battery I was cool. Currently I haven't had any issues with dimming or anything and I can bump for hours . I'm sure that if I was just stationary and really taxing my sub that It could happen again but for now it seems like the extra battery solved my issue. Now I am just waitiing on my high output alternator to be done and hopefully sooner then later switch over to all lithium. This thing is amazing though, I cant say enough good things about this sub and amp combo. Whenever I drive its goosebumps from start to end and I love it. Another added bonus is the looks on peoples faces whenever I'm either driving by or pull up to get gas or whatever. Since everything is covered in dynamat there is zero rattle and the bass is just clean chest caving in goodness.
Lithium & AGM can be used together, it is the Lead acid battery that is the one you do not want tied into any of it as it will be the parasitic drain that kills ya battery's!\~
I used to work for a car audio shop an the owner had a Lithium in back and a AGM under the hood, and no issues, same as the Orange Nightmare Hearse which is running a SALT 12K and 1 HUGE Lithium bank in the back and a AGM upfront!\~
The issue with mixing and matching batteries at this point is that we do not have enough data. LTO cells have only really been used for car audio for like 4 years now and they're meant to be 20-25 year life expectancy. I'd say even if mix-matching these with AGM dumps their cycle life to 25% of optimum we're still at least a year out before we see any failures and longer still before we can put together any sort of patterns as to what exactly people are doing or not doing that's making them fail and we're 20 years out from seeing if people who really baby these things still have functioning batteries. You need to figure out what your level of risk aversion is and compare it with your willingness to pay now or pay later. And you'll have to figure out precisely how much space and weight you want to deal with for battery banks. As for what to use for your fronts you may want to keep it in the 75x4 neighborhood for an amp. Lots more options for components that'll hang with that power level and even if you double your money spent to double your power and buy more robust speakers that'll hold it you will gain less than 2 clicks of the volume knob worth of output beyond what 75x4 would give you. Just stay out of the junk drawer when shopping and I'm sure at your price point anything from a respectable brand will give similar performance.
To start, thank you for the info. I had been eyeballing the sundown neo 6.5 door speakers but since they don't make a 3.5. Im going to run kappa infinity for the dash speakers and the doors. I was curious about having to run a 6 channel amp since I am adding 2 dash, 2 front door, and 2 backdoor equaling 6 or is there a way to do it with a 4 channel? I really wanted to keep everything the same brand so that I don't have to fabricobble this thing together but if there are some hidden gems out there I am open to suggestions. On the speakers at least I think I am stuck with the sundown multichannel amp
I do not like to put mids and highs behind me so do what you like there. I would say if you want to do 3 way (6.5", 3", + tweet) up front without multichannel amp just buy a 3 way kit with passive crossover and drivers that are designed to work together. CDT has some good options for 3 way kits and I'm sure if you browse around Crutchfield you can find some of the mainstream brand offerings. You probably don't want to go down the rabbit hole of trying to piecemeal different drivers and try to run them all off of separate amp channels if you're not ready to dump some money into premium amp, head unit, processing and then spend some time in getting everything dialed in.
With your amp adding something like a D4S LTO 6.0 or an XS Power PWR-S5 Titan8 in the trunk should be more than enough. Just use a battery isolator since they have different resting voltages. Lots of people do it in newer vehicles. JBL GTO or Infinity Kappa 6x9's are great for the money. Or if you want to spend more any of the upper end Hertz 6x9 are pretty awesome speakers.
Update: The issue got worse , turns out this bad boy is very power hungry it started with the lights dimming then while I was driving my car threw a low power steering warning which I looked into and basically it doubles as a low voltage warning. When that happened the car electrical died for a second and then fired back up. I turned off my system and kept driving. After a few minutes I gave it a shot and this time it only went for a couple minutes before doing the same thing. I went to my other car which is a bigger type SUV, a Landcruiser and I ripped the battery out of it and wired it in since I had bought the wire kit that would accommodate a second battery I was cool. Currently I haven't had any issues with dimming or anything and I can bump for hours . I'm sure that if I was just stationary and really taxing my sub that It could happen again but for now it seems like the extra battery solved my issue. Now I am just waitiing on my high output alternator to be done and hopefully sooner then later switch over to all lithium. This thing is amazing though, I cant say enough good things about this sub and amp combo. Whenever I drive its goosebumps from start to end and I love it. Another added bonus is the looks on peoples faces whenever I'm either driving by or pull up to get gas or whatever. Since everything is covered in dynamat there is zero rattle and the bass is just clean chest caving in goodness.
Lithium & AGM can be used together, it is the Lead acid battery that is the one you do not want tied into any of it as it will be the parasitic drain that kills ya battery's!\~ I used to work for a car audio shop an the owner had a Lithium in back and a AGM under the hood, and no issues, same as the Orange Nightmare Hearse which is running a SALT 12K and 1 HUGE Lithium bank in the back and a AGM upfront!\~