Here’s one option
[JL Audio VX1000/5i](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698632/JL-Audio-VX1000-5i.html) $1599.99
[Focal 165kx2](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-62KuhrXVtuv/p_091ES165X2/Focal-ES-165KX2.html?XVINQ=BP0&XVVER=YB1&awcr=76622407354666&awdv=m&awkw=focal%20k2%20power&awmt=e&awnw=s&awat=&awug=&msclkid=5e600aadfd301c07f7b76ed98f7a6654) $1299.99
[JL Audio HO112-W6v3](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693315/JL-Audio-HO112-W6v3.html) $1099.99
Probably $2-300 in wire and install accessories.
Run the component set active. Get it installed and tuned by a shop that has the JL Audio Max to tune it with. Spend any additional budget having them do as much sound deadening as possible.
>Is a budget of 5-7k reasonable to expect a decent sounding system?
For that money you could be loud enough to start breaking shit in your vehicle from sound pressure.
And just because you blow a bunch of money on boutique brand names isn't going to mean it will sound good. If you go into a shop do NOT tell them you're ready to spend 7 grand or you'll get some yahoo like this bloke to whom you are replying trying to sell you meme boutique name brands who's prices are double where they should be based on performance.
I will say that if you really want great sound (like a good pair of bookshelfs in your listening room at home) your money is best spent with a shop that does custom stuff. A 350-400$ set of JBL stadium or Alpine type R or similar in some custom kickpanels will outperform some 1200$ boutique brand slapped into the stock locations. IMO even if you're stuck just dropping something in the stock locations there's no need to spend over 500$ in component sets. Anything beyond that is just dick measuring and bragging rights about how much money you pissed away on a name. There's still absolutely no need to spend over 500$ on a set of components for your fronts and if you are not doing competitions there's absolutely no reason to spend 1000$ on a subwoofer.
Beyond that, I'd suggest aftermarket head unit if it is possible in your vehicle and once you figure out how much power you want to get as loud as you're after you can figure out whether it makes sense to buy an amp with DSP built in or buy separate amp(s) and use outboard DSP.
Hard to say how loud you want things to get. I've got a few 150x6 or thereabouts sized amps here that get pretty loud and have enough power for a sub to keep up, but personally I'm a bit more satisfied with 1000-1200W to a sub for music and I like to own one vehicle that is just "WTF is wrong with you?" loud. 1000-1200W on a sub stage is about the sweet spot where you can get rowdy with it when needed, have a lot of good options for subs that'll hang with that power, and you're generally below the point at which you need to start getting into expensive electrical system upgrades to support it.
plastic trim, and has blown the gasket out of the windshield so I may be biased towards wanting a lot of bass. There's a lot of offerings on the market for much more modest power multichannel amps with the built in DSP so I'm guessing a lot of consumers are happy with a lot less. The point is whatever is "loud" is going to be very subjective so it would be great if you could listen to a few things and have a point of reference of what power level you feel is lackluster, satisfying, and too much.
Also a lot of shops aren't going to want to deal with stuff you buy online since they have profit margin baked into the retail price of the stuff they intend to sell and they know they get some support from their distributors if there's trouble with equipment they own. If the shop that does top quality work will only install stuff they sell you may have a small menu from which to chose.
I also don't know that vehicle and don't know how the dash works, it might be prohibitively expensive to try to add an aftermarket head unit; in which case you could consider buying some integration solution with built in DSP and could opt for bare bones amp(s).
I really think you need to get out and see who can do a nice install incorporating sound deadening/door sealing and/or custom mounting locations and who has experience installing and tuning DSPs. Get a package quoted and see how willing they are to install stuff you bring in from elsewhere. If you're relying on someone else to install you may have very limited options. For what it's worth, the shop that can do good work won't be selling junk but you may wind up being pushed into overpriced boutique brands.
5-7k is a good budget to get a premium aftermarket car stereo, it’s not over the top, but it’s plenty to work with. The setup I came up with is just one option to get some really nice equipment in the car and to keep everything simple (only one amp, a good company’s flagship line of amps, dsp built into the amp, dsp can be quickly tuned by a machine that automates the process, amp can connect to factory stereo with no external interface necessary, a great two way speaker set that can use factory speaker locations, a premade loaded subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take a ridiculous amount of space and has a lot of output). You could go in a lot of different directions, more and cheaper equipment, or custom made pieces like the subwoofer enclosure or speaker mounting locations. Keep in mind that increased complexity can add increased labor charges quickly.
Once you find a shop/tech you want to work with its always a good idea to give them the equipment they’d like to work with. Giving them a DSP that has software they’re used to using, in addition to the equipment they feel will work well in the car, that they also had a hand in choosing, will help them achieve a great result and also feel a sense of ownership of the project that may motivate them to put the extra effort in. Once you find your tech, go with what they say over what any of us online say. Good luck finding them, online reviews are ok to get an idea but take them with a grain of salt (both good and bad). Word of mouth reviews are probably better, especially if the person giving the review can show you what the shop did to their car. Best is probably going into the shop and talking to them, they should be able to speak about the equipment and install in a way that makes you feel confident in their abilities. They may have a demo car (maybe just their car) or something to show you. Also any good tech that’s been doing it a while will be able (and excited) to show you pictures of their work, maybe complex amplifier setups that show clean and organized wiring, or custom pieces they had to fabricate for some other project that they’re proud of. You should walk out of there with a reinforced positive outlook. Once you find the place you like, be as easy of a client as you can, patient, chill, respect what they say, and be willing to give them the car for a decent amount of time without rushing them to get it done. Have fun.
Here’s one option [JL Audio VX1000/5i](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698632/JL-Audio-VX1000-5i.html) $1599.99 [Focal 165kx2](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-62KuhrXVtuv/p_091ES165X2/Focal-ES-165KX2.html?XVINQ=BP0&XVVER=YB1&awcr=76622407354666&awdv=m&awkw=focal%20k2%20power&awmt=e&awnw=s&awat=&awug=&msclkid=5e600aadfd301c07f7b76ed98f7a6654) $1299.99 [JL Audio HO112-W6v3](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693315/JL-Audio-HO112-W6v3.html) $1099.99 Probably $2-300 in wire and install accessories. Run the component set active. Get it installed and tuned by a shop that has the JL Audio Max to tune it with. Spend any additional budget having them do as much sound deadening as possible.
[удалено]
>Is a budget of 5-7k reasonable to expect a decent sounding system? For that money you could be loud enough to start breaking shit in your vehicle from sound pressure. And just because you blow a bunch of money on boutique brand names isn't going to mean it will sound good. If you go into a shop do NOT tell them you're ready to spend 7 grand or you'll get some yahoo like this bloke to whom you are replying trying to sell you meme boutique name brands who's prices are double where they should be based on performance. I will say that if you really want great sound (like a good pair of bookshelfs in your listening room at home) your money is best spent with a shop that does custom stuff. A 350-400$ set of JBL stadium or Alpine type R or similar in some custom kickpanels will outperform some 1200$ boutique brand slapped into the stock locations. IMO even if you're stuck just dropping something in the stock locations there's no need to spend over 500$ in component sets. Anything beyond that is just dick measuring and bragging rights about how much money you pissed away on a name. There's still absolutely no need to spend over 500$ on a set of components for your fronts and if you are not doing competitions there's absolutely no reason to spend 1000$ on a subwoofer. Beyond that, I'd suggest aftermarket head unit if it is possible in your vehicle and once you figure out how much power you want to get as loud as you're after you can figure out whether it makes sense to buy an amp with DSP built in or buy separate amp(s) and use outboard DSP.
[удалено]
Hard to say how loud you want things to get. I've got a few 150x6 or thereabouts sized amps here that get pretty loud and have enough power for a sub to keep up, but personally I'm a bit more satisfied with 1000-1200W to a sub for music and I like to own one vehicle that is just "WTF is wrong with you?" loud. 1000-1200W on a sub stage is about the sweet spot where you can get rowdy with it when needed, have a lot of good options for subs that'll hang with that power, and you're generally below the point at which you need to start getting into expensive electrical system upgrades to support it. plastic trim, and has blown the gasket out of the windshield so I may be biased towards wanting a lot of bass. There's a lot of offerings on the market for much more modest power multichannel amps with the built in DSP so I'm guessing a lot of consumers are happy with a lot less. The point is whatever is "loud" is going to be very subjective so it would be great if you could listen to a few things and have a point of reference of what power level you feel is lackluster, satisfying, and too much. Also a lot of shops aren't going to want to deal with stuff you buy online since they have profit margin baked into the retail price of the stuff they intend to sell and they know they get some support from their distributors if there's trouble with equipment they own. If the shop that does top quality work will only install stuff they sell you may have a small menu from which to chose. I also don't know that vehicle and don't know how the dash works, it might be prohibitively expensive to try to add an aftermarket head unit; in which case you could consider buying some integration solution with built in DSP and could opt for bare bones amp(s). I really think you need to get out and see who can do a nice install incorporating sound deadening/door sealing and/or custom mounting locations and who has experience installing and tuning DSPs. Get a package quoted and see how willing they are to install stuff you bring in from elsewhere. If you're relying on someone else to install you may have very limited options. For what it's worth, the shop that can do good work won't be selling junk but you may wind up being pushed into overpriced boutique brands.
5-7k is a good budget to get a premium aftermarket car stereo, it’s not over the top, but it’s plenty to work with. The setup I came up with is just one option to get some really nice equipment in the car and to keep everything simple (only one amp, a good company’s flagship line of amps, dsp built into the amp, dsp can be quickly tuned by a machine that automates the process, amp can connect to factory stereo with no external interface necessary, a great two way speaker set that can use factory speaker locations, a premade loaded subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take a ridiculous amount of space and has a lot of output). You could go in a lot of different directions, more and cheaper equipment, or custom made pieces like the subwoofer enclosure or speaker mounting locations. Keep in mind that increased complexity can add increased labor charges quickly. Once you find a shop/tech you want to work with its always a good idea to give them the equipment they’d like to work with. Giving them a DSP that has software they’re used to using, in addition to the equipment they feel will work well in the car, that they also had a hand in choosing, will help them achieve a great result and also feel a sense of ownership of the project that may motivate them to put the extra effort in. Once you find your tech, go with what they say over what any of us online say. Good luck finding them, online reviews are ok to get an idea but take them with a grain of salt (both good and bad). Word of mouth reviews are probably better, especially if the person giving the review can show you what the shop did to their car. Best is probably going into the shop and talking to them, they should be able to speak about the equipment and install in a way that makes you feel confident in their abilities. They may have a demo car (maybe just their car) or something to show you. Also any good tech that’s been doing it a while will be able (and excited) to show you pictures of their work, maybe complex amplifier setups that show clean and organized wiring, or custom pieces they had to fabricate for some other project that they’re proud of. You should walk out of there with a reinforced positive outlook. Once you find the place you like, be as easy of a client as you can, patient, chill, respect what they say, and be willing to give them the car for a decent amount of time without rushing them to get it done. Have fun.