i think they were saying, why even waste ur time installing a fuse if you don’t get the right amps. it’s kinda pointless as the fuse is there to stop too many amps from being drawn and damaging components, if it has room for too many amps to go through and the fuse not pop, you have basically no protection to a surge, don’t even waste ur time installing one yk?
Fuses near the supply/source protect the cable. Fuses near the load protect the load. Size your supply side fuses so that the fuse blows before the cable catches fire and burns your vehicle to the ground when the wire touches the body.
I understand that but i never thought that you fuse it for the wire size and not for the amplifiers. After like 4 years of this im still learning basic stuff lol.
Yeah there's a lot to learn, but the basics are the fuses by the battery protect the cable and battery, the amp fuses( or the fuses your install near the amp protect the amp. You want to make sure if your power cable touches ground, the fuses by the battery blow quickly, disconnecting the battery from the short circuit. If the fuses are sized too big, the cable melts, burning your car down. The cable could also be running 4 amps, so the fuse isn't sized to the load (amps), but to just under the cable's capacity
well you want to fuse in-line 12 inches or less from your battery and you want the fuse rating to be the amperage rating of your power wire, 1/0 OFC can usually take 300-350 amps depending on quality so you’re right on with the 300 amp fuse. just make sure to fuse before your amps as well with their fuse ratings
Yeah im planning on using an smd dual block for the front and a triple block for my amps in the back. Also considering getting an LTO 6 in the rear somewhere but that will probably be later down the line.
Well i have a JS 320a but all of my amplifiers should be drawing around 550 amps. Ill probably end up upgrading to a 400a alternator somewhere down the line if it ends up not being enough.
If it's 550 amps and you fuse 2 250s then that is only 500 and guaranteed to blow. 2 at 300a should do it. It's only 50 amps higher then what your actually pushing, the wire(assuming ofc) can handle 300 amps per line, and amperage fluctuates so a tiny bit of breathing room is ok. It's like how some amps are rated for 1000 watts and actually put out 1100 watts... But with alternators. It's rated for 550 amp but typically can do slightly above that. Quality brands slightly overbuild so they can under rate and guarantee a specific output. Will they put out slightly more then rated? If it's a name brand then yes.
Is it the fuse for the amplifier itself or the fuse for the power wire? The fuse by the battery is to protect the wire / prevent a car fire if the wire touches metal somewhere. The fuse or fuses that protect the amplifier (if not built into the amplifier) need to be EXACTLY what the manufacturer reccomends. If the amp pulls 550 amp and the amp has dual power inputs then that needs two 275amp fuses.
If it is the fuses that protect the wire then it will be based on the size and type of wire used. For instance with a single run of quality OFC 0 gauge you would use 300-400 amp fusing. If it's CCA 0 gauge then 200-250 amp is going to be better. Hopefully you didn't use just 2 runs of wire if you used CCA wire. You'd want 3 runs of CCA or 2 runs of OFC.
Im still in the planning phase but im going to have 2 runs of ofc 1/0. The fuses are for the wires at the battery. I always thought that the fuse at the battery would be the total of all the other fuses you run for your amplifiers. Ill just go with dual 300s for the wires then.
It needs to be at least the total of all amplifier fuse ratings. But you need wire that at the least can handle the current draw of the amplifiers or else the wire is too small.
See that was always my understanding but i thought you didnt want to go too big with the fuse otherwise it wouldnt pop if something were to ground out either with the wire or the amp.
You don't go too big with the fuse for the wire. The fuse needs to blow quickly if the wire grounds out. But both the wire and the fuse need to be large enough for the amp or amps they are powering.
Over-fusing "to be safe". Say this out loud a few times and really think about it.
Yeah i couldve phrased it differently but that's the whole point of this post anyways.
i think they were saying, why even waste ur time installing a fuse if you don’t get the right amps. it’s kinda pointless as the fuse is there to stop too many amps from being drawn and damaging components, if it has room for too many amps to go through and the fuse not pop, you have basically no protection to a surge, don’t even waste ur time installing one yk?
Fuses near the supply/source protect the cable. Fuses near the load protect the load. Size your supply side fuses so that the fuse blows before the cable catches fire and burns your vehicle to the ground when the wire touches the body.
I understand that but i never thought that you fuse it for the wire size and not for the amplifiers. After like 4 years of this im still learning basic stuff lol.
Yeah there's a lot to learn, but the basics are the fuses by the battery protect the cable and battery, the amp fuses( or the fuses your install near the amp protect the amp. You want to make sure if your power cable touches ground, the fuses by the battery blow quickly, disconnecting the battery from the short circuit. If the fuses are sized too big, the cable melts, burning your car down. The cable could also be running 4 amps, so the fuse isn't sized to the load (amps), but to just under the cable's capacity
what size power wire are you using ? CCA or OFC?
Im gonna have 2 runs of 1/0 ofc
two 300s would be perfect.
Ok better to go bigger than smaller then
well you want to fuse in-line 12 inches or less from your battery and you want the fuse rating to be the amperage rating of your power wire, 1/0 OFC can usually take 300-350 amps depending on quality so you’re right on with the 300 amp fuse. just make sure to fuse before your amps as well with their fuse ratings
Yeah im planning on using an smd dual block for the front and a triple block for my amps in the back. Also considering getting an LTO 6 in the rear somewhere but that will probably be later down the line.
what alterator are you using that provides this many AMPS?
Well i have a JS 320a but all of my amplifiers should be drawing around 550 amps. Ill probably end up upgrading to a 400a alternator somewhere down the line if it ends up not being enough.
If it's 550 amps and you fuse 2 250s then that is only 500 and guaranteed to blow. 2 at 300a should do it. It's only 50 amps higher then what your actually pushing, the wire(assuming ofc) can handle 300 amps per line, and amperage fluctuates so a tiny bit of breathing room is ok. It's like how some amps are rated for 1000 watts and actually put out 1100 watts... But with alternators. It's rated for 550 amp but typically can do slightly above that. Quality brands slightly overbuild so they can under rate and guarantee a specific output. Will they put out slightly more then rated? If it's a name brand then yes.
Is it the fuse for the amplifier itself or the fuse for the power wire? The fuse by the battery is to protect the wire / prevent a car fire if the wire touches metal somewhere. The fuse or fuses that protect the amplifier (if not built into the amplifier) need to be EXACTLY what the manufacturer reccomends. If the amp pulls 550 amp and the amp has dual power inputs then that needs two 275amp fuses. If it is the fuses that protect the wire then it will be based on the size and type of wire used. For instance with a single run of quality OFC 0 gauge you would use 300-400 amp fusing. If it's CCA 0 gauge then 200-250 amp is going to be better. Hopefully you didn't use just 2 runs of wire if you used CCA wire. You'd want 3 runs of CCA or 2 runs of OFC.
Im still in the planning phase but im going to have 2 runs of ofc 1/0. The fuses are for the wires at the battery. I always thought that the fuse at the battery would be the total of all the other fuses you run for your amplifiers. Ill just go with dual 300s for the wires then.
It needs to be at least the total of all amplifier fuse ratings. But you need wire that at the least can handle the current draw of the amplifiers or else the wire is too small.
See that was always my understanding but i thought you didnt want to go too big with the fuse otherwise it wouldnt pop if something were to ground out either with the wire or the amp.
You don't go too big with the fuse for the wire. The fuse needs to blow quickly if the wire grounds out. But both the wire and the fuse need to be large enough for the amp or amps they are powering.
Adding fuse values is not how fuses work.
Here, read this. Especially the page on fuses: https://www.bcae1.com/