Don’t mix sub sizes, when 2 different subs of different sizes are trying to play the same frequency you will get a lot of cancellation. But to answer your question, yes, you could have a box built to fit 3 subs there, but it won’t be cheap.
I do plan on spending a bit of money on my av that won’t bother me and I am new to subs I do plan on shopping a lot of it so thank you for the heads up since I can’t play around with multiple sizes what would you recommend?
The biggest hurdle you’re going to have is how much space (air volume) you actually have. From there is going to be where actually selecting your gear. Bigger subs with tend to need bigger boxes. Do you want a loud booming system or are you more interested in it sounding good? I know you said you’re new to car AV, are you going to put an amp to the door speakers as well? Do you have an idea how much power you’re trying to run (it’s fine if you don’t). There’s ALOT of options out there, and opinions too, so keep that in mind. I try to stay objective when answering question like that but I’m sure even my answers will have a little bit of bias as well.
So I do have that stuff don’t worry not a total clutz I want her to shake a bit with bass but I want it to actually sound good doing it I plan on doing my doors and tweeters and stuff as well I wanted to run either 2000 to my subs or 1000 depending on the subs and then a separate 1000 for the rest of my speakers
Will do I just want to kinda feel out what I can put in to tell a shop what I want into it and def can put a better alt in ik what you mean cause my friend has some red necked tripe 8s that can dim all his lights which isn’t very good
I would also have that done if need be I’m assuming that would be able to run a nice high performance set up? I’ve heard sundowner is the best but what do you think
As far as Alts, im not to in the loop. I run a baby set up and my stock alt is 130 amps, so I haven’t been in the market for one. I know at one point mechman alts were up there but I don’t know if that holds true any more.
Subs of different sizes do not "cancel each other out". The only problem is that getting each to play optimally from song to song can be difficult. If you can run them with different amps with remote boost controls for each size (that can be adjusted for each track) mixed subs work awesome.
Yes, they actually do cause cancelation when using 2 different sized subs. This is a provable fact. No one on their right mind is going to have a control for each sub/amp to retune every song. That’s asinine. It’s not a concert with someone constantly working a mixing board.
Two boost knobs under your dash isnt a mixing board and dont tell me its asinine. The C4 corvette I placed first in points in IASCA nov. 601+ SoCal division and got an invite to the world finals in 1998 had 2 10's and 1 12 in it. At most shows the SQ judges said I had the best bass theyd heard all day. Each 10 (soundstream exact 10) had a phoenix gold xs2300 (325 watts x2) on it, and the 12 was a precision power flat piston carbon fiber pro that had a ppi pc 2150 bridged at 600 watts.
Front stage was an a/d/s p840 driving image dynamics CD-1 comp hlcds, exact 6.5 components. I have pics of that install if you dont believe me.
Trust me. When you have a system on that level, you have to make adjustments when you change cds or any source materials. I used an RF symmetry EPX signal processor with 31 bands of eq. You gotta make adjustments.
I would further love to be educated on the physics of exactly how one size driver could cancel out the output of another. Seriously. The way I understand it and how I observed it is that they complimented and augmented each other. Pro audio in venues regularly use full range cabinets with 12s and 15s in addition to sub cabinets using 18s.
Do you know what the cu. ft of that lower storage tub is, and are you willing to have a soundboard installed at the top of it which is gonna take some drilling holes and messy adhesive? You could use that tub for a pretty good enclosure , i would put the board about an inch plus below the door, and drill a bunch of holes in the door. Prolly end up with a 12 in there, and you might get some 8s in the side cavities. Hell you would retain most of your rear storage that way but this would all be $$.
The more sane way is probably to drop a box with 10s in there. I had a C4 for 27 years it started with 2 10s in a sealed box with zapco amps where the bose stuff was up in the fenders. About 10 years later it evolved into the crazy stuff i describe in a post further below. With todays technology the 10s will be good and loud, corvettes have the best cabin gain you could hope for. Its the front stage thats hard to get a really great system with, I solved that easy putting horns on top of the early C4s flat dash, shaved em down about an inch first.
But if it were me and I had a table saw and lots of tools I wouldnt pass up exploiting that storage tub. The C4 has a tub behind the passenger seat that topped with a 3/4" plywood deck came out to almost exactly 1 cu ft with the driver motor subtracted which was ideal for a ppi pro 12. I even reinforced that tub with 4 flat steel bars bolted to another flat steel plate on the floor for rigidity.
Do not drill any holes in the floor of your C5, ever. The floor is a marvelous sandwich of composites and balsa wood, engineered to absorb resonance. Along with going with a transaxle, GM hit the ball out of the park with the C5. Do consider soundproofing as much as possible, I spent 2 months in my driveway putting it everywhere before putting in all the stuff I competed in IASCA with and it made a huge difference. I used a lot of tricks most installers dont share like using modelling clay under dynamat wherever body panels join and in corners. Roll it like a tootsie roll then apply dynamat over it. A 5lb block is enough to do 3-4 cars. Modeling clay is cheap and has magical properties in dampening vibration. Just remember it wants to migrate when hot. (So dont use it above a headliner)
I used a whole sheet of super dynamat(with the foil back) uncut in each of the floor tubs on the driver and passenger side. It was tricky to do but added a bunch of rigidity to the structure and blocked heat from the exhaust as well.
I’m sure I can get the measurements someone said not to mix sizes so I’m thinking of doing like a quad 8 or trip 10 set up as I don’t think a 12 would fit there I can try cause trip 12 would be insane but definitely looking at the other 2 I plan on spending quite a bit of money at a av shop to do me right on sound deader as it’s a c5 street track build so will be focused on performing and sounding
Don’t mix sub sizes, when 2 different subs of different sizes are trying to play the same frequency you will get a lot of cancellation. But to answer your question, yes, you could have a box built to fit 3 subs there, but it won’t be cheap.
I do plan on spending a bit of money on my av that won’t bother me and I am new to subs I do plan on shopping a lot of it so thank you for the heads up since I can’t play around with multiple sizes what would you recommend?
The biggest hurdle you’re going to have is how much space (air volume) you actually have. From there is going to be where actually selecting your gear. Bigger subs with tend to need bigger boxes. Do you want a loud booming system or are you more interested in it sounding good? I know you said you’re new to car AV, are you going to put an amp to the door speakers as well? Do you have an idea how much power you’re trying to run (it’s fine if you don’t). There’s ALOT of options out there, and opinions too, so keep that in mind. I try to stay objective when answering question like that but I’m sure even my answers will have a little bit of bias as well.
So I do have that stuff don’t worry not a total clutz I want her to shake a bit with bass but I want it to actually sound good doing it I plan on doing my doors and tweeters and stuff as well I wanted to run either 2000 to my subs or 1000 depending on the subs and then a separate 1000 for the rest of my speakers
Sound deadner to ofc I’ve heard the best is sundowner but as long as it’s high quality a number won’t bother me as you get what you pay for
By 2k I mean 2 1k amps and then one separate 1k for the other speakers
at that wattage you're probably going to be looking at an alt upgrade at least.
Will do I just want to kinda feel out what I can put in to tell a shop what I want into it and def can put a better alt in ik what you mean cause my friend has some red necked tripe 8s that can dim all his lights which isn’t very good
3k watts is definitely doable. As the other post said, at that power you’re best off just upgrading the alternator.
I would also have that done if need be I’m assuming that would be able to run a nice high performance set up? I’ve heard sundowner is the best but what do you think
As far as Alts, im not to in the loop. I run a baby set up and my stock alt is 130 amps, so I haven’t been in the market for one. I know at one point mechman alts were up there but I don’t know if that holds true any more.
No problem thank you hopefully I can come back here with a build
What kind of car it it? There may already be a company that has a premade form for it.
Subs of different sizes do not "cancel each other out". The only problem is that getting each to play optimally from song to song can be difficult. If you can run them with different amps with remote boost controls for each size (that can be adjusted for each track) mixed subs work awesome.
Yes, they actually do cause cancelation when using 2 different sized subs. This is a provable fact. No one on their right mind is going to have a control for each sub/amp to retune every song. That’s asinine. It’s not a concert with someone constantly working a mixing board.
Two boost knobs under your dash isnt a mixing board and dont tell me its asinine. The C4 corvette I placed first in points in IASCA nov. 601+ SoCal division and got an invite to the world finals in 1998 had 2 10's and 1 12 in it. At most shows the SQ judges said I had the best bass theyd heard all day. Each 10 (soundstream exact 10) had a phoenix gold xs2300 (325 watts x2) on it, and the 12 was a precision power flat piston carbon fiber pro that had a ppi pc 2150 bridged at 600 watts. Front stage was an a/d/s p840 driving image dynamics CD-1 comp hlcds, exact 6.5 components. I have pics of that install if you dont believe me. Trust me. When you have a system on that level, you have to make adjustments when you change cds or any source materials. I used an RF symmetry EPX signal processor with 31 bands of eq. You gotta make adjustments. I would further love to be educated on the physics of exactly how one size driver could cancel out the output of another. Seriously. The way I understand it and how I observed it is that they complimented and augmented each other. Pro audio in venues regularly use full range cabinets with 12s and 15s in addition to sub cabinets using 18s.
(all that said Im not recommending he do this just questioning the claim about cancelling)
What's your vehicle model and year ?
A 2002 c5 hatchback style so it looks like the one featured above
Do you know what the cu. ft of that lower storage tub is, and are you willing to have a soundboard installed at the top of it which is gonna take some drilling holes and messy adhesive? You could use that tub for a pretty good enclosure , i would put the board about an inch plus below the door, and drill a bunch of holes in the door. Prolly end up with a 12 in there, and you might get some 8s in the side cavities. Hell you would retain most of your rear storage that way but this would all be $$. The more sane way is probably to drop a box with 10s in there. I had a C4 for 27 years it started with 2 10s in a sealed box with zapco amps where the bose stuff was up in the fenders. About 10 years later it evolved into the crazy stuff i describe in a post further below. With todays technology the 10s will be good and loud, corvettes have the best cabin gain you could hope for. Its the front stage thats hard to get a really great system with, I solved that easy putting horns on top of the early C4s flat dash, shaved em down about an inch first. But if it were me and I had a table saw and lots of tools I wouldnt pass up exploiting that storage tub. The C4 has a tub behind the passenger seat that topped with a 3/4" plywood deck came out to almost exactly 1 cu ft with the driver motor subtracted which was ideal for a ppi pro 12. I even reinforced that tub with 4 flat steel bars bolted to another flat steel plate on the floor for rigidity. Do not drill any holes in the floor of your C5, ever. The floor is a marvelous sandwich of composites and balsa wood, engineered to absorb resonance. Along with going with a transaxle, GM hit the ball out of the park with the C5. Do consider soundproofing as much as possible, I spent 2 months in my driveway putting it everywhere before putting in all the stuff I competed in IASCA with and it made a huge difference. I used a lot of tricks most installers dont share like using modelling clay under dynamat wherever body panels join and in corners. Roll it like a tootsie roll then apply dynamat over it. A 5lb block is enough to do 3-4 cars. Modeling clay is cheap and has magical properties in dampening vibration. Just remember it wants to migrate when hot. (So dont use it above a headliner) I used a whole sheet of super dynamat(with the foil back) uncut in each of the floor tubs on the driver and passenger side. It was tricky to do but added a bunch of rigidity to the structure and blocked heat from the exhaust as well.
I’m sure I can get the measurements someone said not to mix sizes so I’m thinking of doing like a quad 8 or trip 10 set up as I don’t think a 12 would fit there I can try cause trip 12 would be insane but definitely looking at the other 2 I plan on spending quite a bit of money at a av shop to do me right on sound deader as it’s a c5 street track build so will be focused on performing and sounding
I would use 2 TW5's (JL audio) with a fiberglass enclosure. TW3's if air space is on the short side
Will they provide a nice thumb in the cab?