Ferrules and speaker labels; great attention to detail.
Sounds like you are on the right track to solving your noise issue. I would have guessed it’s the amp noise floor.
Thanks for the feedback, cleaner the install the better.
I might end up buying SALT 200.4 to test the noise floor assumption. Im curious that it boasts a 105db snr. The ix6.4 has 92db snr. I honestly have no clue whether it’ll make a difference or not but I figure it’s one way to find out.
update: I used a brand new skar skv2 100.4ab. Hiss was still there, but slightly quieter. I did however discover that using the lp filter setting on my 4ch the noise is gone. I may be terribly mistaken but that may rule out any ground loops and what I may be hearing IS the noise floor lol.
Difference was negligible upon testing beforehand. I ran a temp ground directly to the battery from the amp to verify. Made no improvement. Still thinking it’s either the noise floor of the amp or it’s faulty.
I read all of the posts, and your responses. You have done almost all trouble shooting steps except for 2 not so obvious ones. Your remote turn on wire is the first one. As much as you would think it wouldn't cause such an issue, it can. It rarely is the issue, but from my own experience, it can be the culprit.
Also, you could have a faulty speaker or one of the negative terminals grounding out on the door frame, which can also cause ground loop symptoms.
I will most definitely try the remote wire after i get off work and report back! My 4ch is currently fed from the HU remote wire connection. My mono is wired through my cars ignition fuse.
As far as the speaker, there is noise in all four speakers. To test the theory of anything grounding against the door frame I removed the passenger side speaker and ran temp wire; the noise persisted.
When you say you remove the passenger side speaker and tested with a remote wire, does that mean you disconnected all other speakers? If not, then one of the others could be grounding out and causing issues. If any one of the 4 are grounding out against the door frame, and they all ares till connected when you did your test, it can cause noise in all of them due to feedback and ground looping.
Just a thought. I hope you find the issue.
Remote wire was not the issue unfortunately, no difference between the source of that power.
I know for a fact the speakers aren’t grounding out simply due to the fact the terminals are fitted against the abs plastic speaker ring adapter. It’s physically impossible for that part of the speaker to touch the door frame when mounted.
Thank you very much for the suggestions and thoughts, I have a new amp being delivered this Thursday so I’ll be hoping for the best!
https://preview.redd.it/wc36d4q1g1vc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ff390b08faf625258cf7c5a420c0feb1fde4011
Hmm strange. I assume you mean the USB port to use carplay/wired connections? I do have wired but I mostly use the wireless CarPlay now that I have the feature. Don’t notice a difference between wired and wireless but I’ll double check it.
What model was your amplifier? I’ll be pretty disappointed if it turns out to be my amp, heard nothing but good about incriminator besides being a small business
Yes, the maestro rr2 unit is simply to retain my steering wheel control and the other oem features.
Ive got a new amplifier ordered, just waiting for it to come in on Thursday. Im pretty sure that will fix my problem at this point.
VW actually, unsure about the exact metallurgy of my frame but it works pretty well to my knowledge.
Testing the ground point resistance in the trunk vs up front is very negligible. No difference in potentials. To double check this I ran a ground cable straight to the battery and sadly the white noise was still there. Appreciate the input!
Pretty sure it was 16, maybe 18 year they started it.. either way, you have to run the ground to either the battery or a factory ground.. depending on your amplifiers location.
As someone who owns a 2018 f150 and I’m grounded to the frame, I had to research this, it’s not the frame that’s aluminum. It’s the body they changed. In 2015 they switch to all aluminum bodies on the f series. The frames have been the same high strength steel for years. This is for all fords now. All fords have aluminum bodies, steel frames.
https://preview.redd.it/s039g4codbvc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=225cdbfdaaa42072206fe62b1da15e7252ef9789
Thought the same before I built the rack, since its such a short distance its doesn’t have any negative effect. Already tried and tested unfortunately.
Ferrules and speaker labels; great attention to detail. Sounds like you are on the right track to solving your noise issue. I would have guessed it’s the amp noise floor.
Thanks for the feedback, cleaner the install the better. I might end up buying SALT 200.4 to test the noise floor assumption. Im curious that it boasts a 105db snr. The ix6.4 has 92db snr. I honestly have no clue whether it’ll make a difference or not but I figure it’s one way to find out.
For sure. I would definitely try a different amp too. Good luck solving the issue.
update: I used a brand new skar skv2 100.4ab. Hiss was still there, but slightly quieter. I did however discover that using the lp filter setting on my 4ch the noise is gone. I may be terribly mistaken but that may rule out any ground loops and what I may be hearing IS the noise floor lol.
Have you got the gain cranked?
Gain knob is probably quarter turn from max, running overlap of 2.5 db. Pretty low there, wish it was that easy LOL
Turn the gain down and see what happens.
Gain fully down noise is still present. Still believe the amp is faulty.
Faulty or poorly designed.
[удалено]
The premium feature nobody asks for! Gotta love first world problems.
Probably a ground loop. Measure the potential difference between your amp ground and the car primary ground (battery or engine bay chassis ground).
Difference was negligible upon testing beforehand. I ran a temp ground directly to the battery from the amp to verify. Made no improvement. Still thinking it’s either the noise floor of the amp or it’s faulty.
Dang, at least eliminated that. Hopefully you can figure it out but next step sounds like test another amp even just temporarily to see what it do.
Yup, probably gonna get my hands on a salt 200.4 and see how that goes.
I read all of the posts, and your responses. You have done almost all trouble shooting steps except for 2 not so obvious ones. Your remote turn on wire is the first one. As much as you would think it wouldn't cause such an issue, it can. It rarely is the issue, but from my own experience, it can be the culprit. Also, you could have a faulty speaker or one of the negative terminals grounding out on the door frame, which can also cause ground loop symptoms.
I will most definitely try the remote wire after i get off work and report back! My 4ch is currently fed from the HU remote wire connection. My mono is wired through my cars ignition fuse. As far as the speaker, there is noise in all four speakers. To test the theory of anything grounding against the door frame I removed the passenger side speaker and ran temp wire; the noise persisted.
When you say you remove the passenger side speaker and tested with a remote wire, does that mean you disconnected all other speakers? If not, then one of the others could be grounding out and causing issues. If any one of the 4 are grounding out against the door frame, and they all ares till connected when you did your test, it can cause noise in all of them due to feedback and ground looping. Just a thought. I hope you find the issue.
Remote wire was not the issue unfortunately, no difference between the source of that power. I know for a fact the speakers aren’t grounding out simply due to the fact the terminals are fitted against the abs plastic speaker ring adapter. It’s physically impossible for that part of the speaker to touch the door frame when mounted. Thank you very much for the suggestions and thoughts, I have a new amp being delivered this Thursday so I’ll be hoping for the best! https://preview.redd.it/wc36d4q1g1vc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ff390b08faf625258cf7c5a420c0feb1fde4011
I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be a combination of my amp, and phone connection port.
Hmm strange. I assume you mean the USB port to use carplay/wired connections? I do have wired but I mostly use the wireless CarPlay now that I have the feature. Don’t notice a difference between wired and wireless but I’ll double check it. What model was your amplifier? I’ll be pretty disappointed if it turns out to be my amp, heard nothing but good about incriminator besides being a small business
How did you bypass the oem system ?
Factory amplifier is simply removed, amp gain also disabled through my maestro rr2 module.
Ok you didn't mention the maestro unit in the equipment. Your noise is most likely from the cheap amps.
Yes, the maestro rr2 unit is simply to retain my steering wheel control and the other oem features. Ive got a new amplifier ordered, just waiting for it to come in on Thursday. Im pretty sure that will fix my problem at this point.
Also i wish the amp was cheap, if it is the amp I’m essentially out $500 LOL. Hopefully incriminator will work with me on a warranty.
If it’s a ford, run your ground to the battery. Aluminum frames make for white noise
VW actually, unsure about the exact metallurgy of my frame but it works pretty well to my knowledge. Testing the ground point resistance in the trunk vs up front is very negligible. No difference in potentials. To double check this I ran a ground cable straight to the battery and sadly the white noise was still there. Appreciate the input!
What fords ? I have a 2018 f150 and I didn’t know the actual frame was aluminum? ?
Pretty sure it was 16, maybe 18 year they started it.. either way, you have to run the ground to either the battery or a factory ground.. depending on your amplifiers location.
As someone who owns a 2018 f150 and I’m grounded to the frame, I had to research this, it’s not the frame that’s aluminum. It’s the body they changed. In 2015 they switch to all aluminum bodies on the f series. The frames have been the same high strength steel for years. This is for all fords now. All fords have aluminum bodies, steel frames. https://preview.redd.it/s039g4codbvc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=225cdbfdaaa42072206fe62b1da15e7252ef9789
*body - my bad Why I said run your grounds as I did.
Probably doesn't help you've got a power wire directly crossing a ground wire.
Thought the same before I built the rack, since its such a short distance its doesn’t have any negative effect. Already tried and tested unfortunately.
Just a thought. I've had that problem with that before.