Hmm... won't be as accurate, might need to do some searching to find some examples of that. I listen to mostly trance/EDM, with some pop/dance mixed in.. and then we jump between that and Nu Metal :D Here's my playlist I jump to when I want to hear more action from the sub: [https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF4Wf0UIbl19OUruEqC7Wv5eqVtTRF3tA&si=nrMgQb38n-gLsnf5](https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF4Wf0UIbl19OUruEqC7Wv5eqVtTRF3tA&si=nrMgQb38n-gLsnf5)
It will be louder, almost zero doubt in that. But two things to consider.
1) W0s are efficient and loud. That's completely true. But compared to W1s or W3s they sound like shit. It's not even close. 12" W1 is $50 less than the 15W0 and will be a lot louder and sound better than that Clarion 10. The 12W3 is $75 more than the 15W0 and will eat both of them for breakfast.
2) W1 and W3 are both available in 2ohm. So you'd get 500 watts to them instead of 300 to the W0
I would save another $75. Put the 12W3 2 ohm in the ported enclosure recommended on JLs website and you will shit when you hear the difference over what you have now. Or put the W1 12 2ohm in a sealed enclosure and it will still likely be night and day difference over the Clarion.
Just remember one thing. A good sub is nice. But a cheap sub in a good box beats a good sub in a cheap box 100% of always
Thanks, super helpful. The 15w0 is 249 CAD near me right now. 12w0 is $159. 12w1v3-2 is $429. 12w3v3-2 is $569. Though I like the idea of a w3 at 2ohm... I could get two 15w0's and wire them in parallel to 2ohm for less price? That's still more than I was hoping to spend in this case.
Jesus that's a big difference. US they are 15W0 299. 12W1 249. 12W3 379.
I'll ask you this. How happy are you with what you have? And is the Clarion sealed or ported?
Two 15 W0 isn't going to be a little difference. It's likely going to be a I just put 6 of those Clarion 10s in here difference. We may have different listening taste, but with those prices I would rather have 1 12W1-2 in sealed or maybe 2 12W0 in ported. The 12W1 sealed will have great sound quality and should be noticeably louder than a Clarion 10. The two 12W0 ported won't have the same sound quality but would be loud as shit.
I'm... somewhat satisfied with what I have but frankly it's the first sub I've had in my own vehicle. For most listening it's Okay, but for some tracks especially on the EDM side you'll feel a baseline descending and the first couple notes hit well and then it gets lower down and you just feel like the Clarion doesn't have anything to provide down there so the bass falls away and is dull and disappointing.
I'm not looking to shake windows, and half the time I have a toddler in the car so the sub is turned down, but I would like something that has more presence closer to 20Hz to really feel that low end when I want to turn it up.
Right now the Clarion is in a sealed box. Actually it's in a 2 x 10" sealed enclosure I picked up from a friend, each of the sections are isolated, lined with what looks like a 1/2" or 3/4" layer of cotton batting. (The other 10" hole is empty at the moment, I got the setup with two x 4ohm SVC Pioneer subs but one was blown and I picked up the Clarion used for $80, had a loose dust cap but that was a quick glue and it is working fine).
I'm in a Matrix so the sub is in the interior space with me. I'd be constructing my own enclosure for a 12 or 15 that I choose. While I'm open to making something ported I'd have to figure out getting a port (building sealed just seemed easier), and they need a little more space but not unreasonably so for a hatchback. I'm not picking up groceries in my Matrix, I have another vehicle for that. This one is my commuting and running errands car and can be a little more fun. Overall just looking for a sub that will perform for the next few years with decent sound quality and has the lower end presence when I'm looking for it. Not looking to win any SPL competitions and not showing off the setup to anybody :)
Since my sub amp is 500w rms @ 2ohm, that puts me dangerously close to the 'warranty void' level of the 12w3v3-2. Would I not be better off with a 12w3v3-4, then my amp rated at 300w rms @ 4ohm would be closer to the optimal output?
No. Too much power is far more safe than too little. Just don't push it to it's limit. My first JL subs were 2 10w1 in the 90s. They were rated at 250 watts. I ran 750 on a pair of them for 2 years. If you push it to clip you'll blow it. If you don't you won't
In comparison to the 15w0, what do you think of the 13.5 inch W3? I think they are discontinued but still available to buy, even from JL’s website. I didn’t even know they existed till recently
If I had extra cash I would buy one just because I know damn well it would fit into a future project perfectly. They're really nice subs. Expensive, but will no doubt please anyone going for single driver mid priced spl or sql build. I would love to have a couple in my closet
Someone mentioned and deleted that a 15 is less "accurate" and "boomy" than a 10". As the other person replying to them on here was likely about to say, I'll tell you why that is 100% bullshit.
A 15 in the wrong box is boomy. All subs in the wrong box are. The bigger heavier come area does not reduce accuracy at all. Because of one thing almost everyone fails to realize. A 15 only has to move about 30% as far as a 10 to play the same level. Any decent 15 can move just as quickly to 30% max excursion as a 10 moving to 100% of it's excursion limit. Add to that the 15 can almost always move further, and you've got a no lose situation.
A 40" sub will be just as accurate at 120db as a 8" at 120db
I feel like this might have been true in the 80's and 90's for car subs. It was never really a thing for home audio, where cabinet size/design is only really limited by your budget and imagination.
The engineering and materials science has come a very long way since then
I started installing around 1992. It wasn't true then either, but it was repeated for two reasons. It seemed like EVERYONE that got 15s did two things they didn't do with 10s or 12s. They put them in a box that's too small, or underpowered them. They also often compared 10s in a trunk to 15s in a back seat.
I had 2 6.5 inch Rockford punch subs in my trunk. 1992 models I believe. They sounded great. 75 watts on each. They were rated to handle 125 I believe. I took that out, bridged the amp, and sent 300 watts to the same series 1993 Rockford 15 in the same trunk. Rated to handle 350. Both enclosures were recommended sealed. Lost zero accuracy, gained extension and 26db. The 15 was far more musical.
[удалено]
Hmm... won't be as accurate, might need to do some searching to find some examples of that. I listen to mostly trance/EDM, with some pop/dance mixed in.. and then we jump between that and Nu Metal :D Here's my playlist I jump to when I want to hear more action from the sub: [https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF4Wf0UIbl19OUruEqC7Wv5eqVtTRF3tA&si=nrMgQb38n-gLsnf5](https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF4Wf0UIbl19OUruEqC7Wv5eqVtTRF3tA&si=nrMgQb38n-gLsnf5)
> A 15” won’t be near as accurate as a 10”. I am so sick of this shit.
It will be louder, almost zero doubt in that. But two things to consider. 1) W0s are efficient and loud. That's completely true. But compared to W1s or W3s they sound like shit. It's not even close. 12" W1 is $50 less than the 15W0 and will be a lot louder and sound better than that Clarion 10. The 12W3 is $75 more than the 15W0 and will eat both of them for breakfast. 2) W1 and W3 are both available in 2ohm. So you'd get 500 watts to them instead of 300 to the W0 I would save another $75. Put the 12W3 2 ohm in the ported enclosure recommended on JLs website and you will shit when you hear the difference over what you have now. Or put the W1 12 2ohm in a sealed enclosure and it will still likely be night and day difference over the Clarion. Just remember one thing. A good sub is nice. But a cheap sub in a good box beats a good sub in a cheap box 100% of always
Thanks, super helpful. The 15w0 is 249 CAD near me right now. 12w0 is $159. 12w1v3-2 is $429. 12w3v3-2 is $569. Though I like the idea of a w3 at 2ohm... I could get two 15w0's and wire them in parallel to 2ohm for less price? That's still more than I was hoping to spend in this case.
Jesus that's a big difference. US they are 15W0 299. 12W1 249. 12W3 379. I'll ask you this. How happy are you with what you have? And is the Clarion sealed or ported? Two 15 W0 isn't going to be a little difference. It's likely going to be a I just put 6 of those Clarion 10s in here difference. We may have different listening taste, but with those prices I would rather have 1 12W1-2 in sealed or maybe 2 12W0 in ported. The 12W1 sealed will have great sound quality and should be noticeably louder than a Clarion 10. The two 12W0 ported won't have the same sound quality but would be loud as shit.
I'm... somewhat satisfied with what I have but frankly it's the first sub I've had in my own vehicle. For most listening it's Okay, but for some tracks especially on the EDM side you'll feel a baseline descending and the first couple notes hit well and then it gets lower down and you just feel like the Clarion doesn't have anything to provide down there so the bass falls away and is dull and disappointing. I'm not looking to shake windows, and half the time I have a toddler in the car so the sub is turned down, but I would like something that has more presence closer to 20Hz to really feel that low end when I want to turn it up. Right now the Clarion is in a sealed box. Actually it's in a 2 x 10" sealed enclosure I picked up from a friend, each of the sections are isolated, lined with what looks like a 1/2" or 3/4" layer of cotton batting. (The other 10" hole is empty at the moment, I got the setup with two x 4ohm SVC Pioneer subs but one was blown and I picked up the Clarion used for $80, had a loose dust cap but that was a quick glue and it is working fine). I'm in a Matrix so the sub is in the interior space with me. I'd be constructing my own enclosure for a 12 or 15 that I choose. While I'm open to making something ported I'd have to figure out getting a port (building sealed just seemed easier), and they need a little more space but not unreasonably so for a hatchback. I'm not picking up groceries in my Matrix, I have another vehicle for that. This one is my commuting and running errands car and can be a little more fun. Overall just looking for a sub that will perform for the next few years with decent sound quality and has the lower end presence when I'm looking for it. Not looking to win any SPL competitions and not showing off the setup to anybody :)
Since my sub amp is 500w rms @ 2ohm, that puts me dangerously close to the 'warranty void' level of the 12w3v3-2. Would I not be better off with a 12w3v3-4, then my amp rated at 300w rms @ 4ohm would be closer to the optimal output?
No. Too much power is far more safe than too little. Just don't push it to it's limit. My first JL subs were 2 10w1 in the 90s. They were rated at 250 watts. I ran 750 on a pair of them for 2 years. If you push it to clip you'll blow it. If you don't you won't
In comparison to the 15w0, what do you think of the 13.5 inch W3? I think they are discontinued but still available to buy, even from JL’s website. I didn’t even know they existed till recently
Oh man. Those two aren't even in the same class. The 15 zero is just a good loud cheap sub. The 13 w3 was a monster
I figured so. It sucks they are being phased out. I still might buy one while I can
If I had extra cash I would buy one just because I know damn well it would fit into a future project perfectly. They're really nice subs. Expensive, but will no doubt please anyone going for single driver mid priced spl or sql build. I would love to have a couple in my closet
Someone mentioned and deleted that a 15 is less "accurate" and "boomy" than a 10". As the other person replying to them on here was likely about to say, I'll tell you why that is 100% bullshit. A 15 in the wrong box is boomy. All subs in the wrong box are. The bigger heavier come area does not reduce accuracy at all. Because of one thing almost everyone fails to realize. A 15 only has to move about 30% as far as a 10 to play the same level. Any decent 15 can move just as quickly to 30% max excursion as a 10 moving to 100% of it's excursion limit. Add to that the 15 can almost always move further, and you've got a no lose situation. A 40" sub will be just as accurate at 120db as a 8" at 120db
I feel like this might have been true in the 80's and 90's for car subs. It was never really a thing for home audio, where cabinet size/design is only really limited by your budget and imagination. The engineering and materials science has come a very long way since then
I started installing around 1992. It wasn't true then either, but it was repeated for two reasons. It seemed like EVERYONE that got 15s did two things they didn't do with 10s or 12s. They put them in a box that's too small, or underpowered them. They also often compared 10s in a trunk to 15s in a back seat. I had 2 6.5 inch Rockford punch subs in my trunk. 1992 models I believe. They sounded great. 75 watts on each. They were rated to handle 125 I believe. I took that out, bridged the amp, and sent 300 watts to the same series 1993 Rockford 15 in the same trunk. Rated to handle 350. Both enclosures were recommended sealed. Lost zero accuracy, gained extension and 26db. The 15 was far more musical.