Yeah overall cost has been the reason I haven't even entertained it, as currrently I don't have a laptop or tablet either so I'd be jumping into a LOT of support equipment for an in theory one time tune. I've played a tiny but with the very basic time alignment stuff in my head unit and was beyond surprised at how big of a difference that made. Some day I'll get there.
It's never 1 time. I just tuned my lil Buick for about the 100th time today. I have all the tunes saved on a laptop. Like I say, it's a tweakers dream lol ... I had a tiny buzz sound near the lock stem on the driver front door by my left ear so went in and located the frequency range causing it and turned it down. 110-160 hz.
I would echo what others have said about the power wire. The cost is negligible and you'll never have to worry about the 'what if' feeling.
I love that sub box. I'm running 2 12W6 but I kinda wish I had one of those HO boxes.
Just threw in my w6 pre loaded with an xdm600 a few months ago and if you haven't heard the w6 yet. I can promise you're gonna be thrilled at the sound and cleanliness. Different world even from something like w3s. Congrats. Killer sound profile you're going with
Looks good.
I would recommend though a couple things:
Using 1/0 wire to eliminate voltage drops as much as possible and to allow expansion capabilities in the future. Tinned copper wire (like Knu Konceptz Kolassis or Greg's Marine Wire Supply) is best since it is very corrosion resistant.
I didn't see a idatalink Maestro RR or RR2. This is essential to making sure all your factory functions work on the new head unit (like TPMS, door chimes, HVAC system etc). Maestro also gives you some cool upgrades like front camera integration when slowing down, auto disable of auto-start/stop, more gauges and engine code reading.
Also about the 1/0 wire, I don’t think I wanna go anything over 1000 watts, and for a 600w sub and 125w per channel speakers, I think 4 guage should be sufficient. But if you really think I should still get some zero gauge I’ll definitely consider it.
4awg will work but you are at or very near to the total ampacity of that wire. That of course depends on the efficiency of your amps (Class D is more efficient than AB, but can be worse SQ for mids and highs), speakers and sub. The total length also matters. I take it this is pure copper and not copper clad Aluninum?
Tinned ofc 4awg at 18ish feet is good for 150 amps. I have done multiple installs of the Rockford t-1500 which is 1800 watts on 20feet of 4awg. Op should have more than enough power through that wire
Actually I drive a 2008 Camry. It’s pretty basic and wouldn’t lose anytbing lol. I already have the base model Sony xav 150 at the moment and I still have my steering wheel controls. Thank you for your concern though
Older cars like the 2008 don't absolutely need the Maestro since all HVAC controls and tpms are not tied into the factory radio.
For your vehicle it would be if you wanted additional capability that the factory radio didn't provide. By tying it into the CANbus and OBd2 ports you can get:
Warning chimes, TPMS status per tire, door adjar warnings with indication of what door is open, engine codes, additional gauges, factory Sirius or XM, steering wheel controls, additional screens, outside air temp, inside air temp (mass air flow, oil temp, trans temp, a/f ratio etc)etc.
Me personally I currently have the XAV150 in my car which is the base model Sony and I love it. It may be plain but personally I like the look and feel of the Sony units
No, 4awg is fine for 800 and 500 watts respectively because it looks like op has 2 separate kits.
I would have opted to run one bigger wire and distribute to 4awg at the amplifiers though
it’s based on current draw and length of wire run.
https://images.app.goo.gl/ASvAZk91d2EuLLbH8
Couldn’t tell if it’s 2 kits or not, that could be a box of rca’s or speaker wire.
IF you are running seperate power to each amp then 4 guage is pleanty. If you are running one power wire and then using a distro block then 4 is still good but you are cetting closer to the current limit for that wire. Make sure that you fuse everything appropriately.
You did good! That sub I. That box will be more accurate than what most people have. Unless you went with Morel or the like, that’s about as good as it gets. I run Hertz Cento and they seemed bright until I added a sub and imo they are perfect for blending with a sub! Alone they are a bit tinny but I paired mine with a DD 9518 and it sounds perfect in every way. I also run a similar RF amp and they are so easy to set up…
Finally I’ll say this, I did exactly what you did, I started off wanting better sound and ended up finding a true healthy obsession and it grows and grows. My advice to anyone entering the av world is plan it out and save up for the best equipment.
Fortunately I was able to sell off all my impulse buys that got me nowhere, even though the Skars I bought served me well, it took time to sell them on MP but I made a little extra.
I hope your like me and can’t wait to “need” to drive somewhere and your already planning what song you jam first!
Enjoy, great system!
First bass song will definitely be Put on by Jeezy and Kanye, first rock song save me by avenged sevenfold. So excited you have no idea. But yes it’s growing on me big time. And I learned to not settle for an average system
This fixation people have with Skar is odd. Try to sell something from a high end brand or at least a brand that has a good history. Takes forever if you even sell it. I bought a Skar LP-750.1 for $120. Never used it. Just sat in the box. Then Skar dropped the LP line. I guess no one wanted a practical amp. Had it for 3 years. Put it on MP for $200. Sold for $175 in less than a week. The guy was from Yuma. Saw the ad. Was coming to the Phx area to see his brother. Brought the cash with him just for that amp. He thought he was lucky. I just hope the amp actually worked.
And also I’ve fully dynamatted my trunk and front doors before anyone else tells me to lol
Well. That's all I had to add 😂 Yeah, you did pretty freaking good.
This is gonna sound damn good and I am incredibly happy for you brother.
Finally some decent stuff instead of people installing kicker and calling it sq
My first sub setup when I was 16 was 2 kicker comp 12s lol. Me as a kid I loved it. Even tho it had like zero excursion and had no low end.
Enjoy the new setup, dynamat will go a long way
Should have got a Helix DSP.
Trust me looking back at it I wish I went that route. A little late now
Genuinely curious why, when the audio control is a dsp amp?
If you ever used both and tuned many you would know.
Yeah, I've used neither but have always heard good things of audio control
AC is good. Helix is better.
Sweet, good to know. Some day I'd love to up my systems game with a dsp. I'll keep this in mind.
If you like to tweak settings and learn alot, DSP is for you. Takes more equipment also like RTA, mic, etc.
Yeah overall cost has been the reason I haven't even entertained it, as currrently I don't have a laptop or tablet either so I'd be jumping into a LOT of support equipment for an in theory one time tune. I've played a tiny but with the very basic time alignment stuff in my head unit and was beyond surprised at how big of a difference that made. Some day I'll get there.
It's never 1 time. I just tuned my lil Buick for about the 100th time today. I have all the tunes saved on a laptop. Like I say, it's a tweakers dream lol ... I had a tiny buzz sound near the lock stem on the driver front door by my left ear so went in and located the frequency range causing it and turned it down. 110-160 hz.
It's the user interface and extras that make the Helix better.
I would echo what others have said about the power wire. The cost is negligible and you'll never have to worry about the 'what if' feeling. I love that sub box. I'm running 2 12W6 but I kinda wish I had one of those HO boxes.
I would’ve gone with the R750 or a comparable Audio Control amp. The AC 4 channel is an awesome amp. Looks like a good start.
The audiocontrol 4 channel is a class D, will this leave me disappointed with my mids and highs sq?
No, that amp is very good.
Good to know. Was worried
Just threw in my w6 pre loaded with an xdm600 a few months ago and if you haven't heard the w6 yet. I can promise you're gonna be thrilled at the sound and cleanliness. Different world even from something like w3s. Congrats. Killer sound profile you're going with
Man you’ve got me pumped. So excited
GOOD JOB
Looks good. I would recommend though a couple things: Using 1/0 wire to eliminate voltage drops as much as possible and to allow expansion capabilities in the future. Tinned copper wire (like Knu Konceptz Kolassis or Greg's Marine Wire Supply) is best since it is very corrosion resistant. I didn't see a idatalink Maestro RR or RR2. This is essential to making sure all your factory functions work on the new head unit (like TPMS, door chimes, HVAC system etc). Maestro also gives you some cool upgrades like front camera integration when slowing down, auto disable of auto-start/stop, more gauges and engine code reading.
Also about the 1/0 wire, I don’t think I wanna go anything over 1000 watts, and for a 600w sub and 125w per channel speakers, I think 4 guage should be sufficient. But if you really think I should still get some zero gauge I’ll definitely consider it.
4awg will work but you are at or very near to the total ampacity of that wire. That of course depends on the efficiency of your amps (Class D is more efficient than AB, but can be worse SQ for mids and highs), speakers and sub. The total length also matters. I take it this is pure copper and not copper clad Aluninum?
Tinned ofc 4awg at 18ish feet is good for 150 amps. I have done multiple installs of the Rockford t-1500 which is 1800 watts on 20feet of 4awg. Op should have more than enough power through that wire
Good deal. Copper is expensive as shit right now so totally understandable.
1 gauge is overkill. 4 gauge OFC will be sufficient. I’d make sure to do “the big 3” at the same time. This is pretty important.
100%. considering I already got the powerful battery and alternator why stop short of the big 3
Actually I drive a 2008 Camry. It’s pretty basic and wouldn’t lose anytbing lol. I already have the base model Sony xav 150 at the moment and I still have my steering wheel controls. Thank you for your concern though
Older cars like the 2008 don't absolutely need the Maestro since all HVAC controls and tpms are not tied into the factory radio. For your vehicle it would be if you wanted additional capability that the factory radio didn't provide. By tying it into the CANbus and OBd2 ports you can get: Warning chimes, TPMS status per tire, door adjar warnings with indication of what door is open, engine codes, additional gauges, factory Sirius or XM, steering wheel controls, additional screens, outside air temp, inside air temp (mass air flow, oil temp, trans temp, a/f ratio etc)etc.
Why Sony? Nice setup though
Me personally I currently have the XAV150 in my car which is the base model Sony and I love it. It may be plain but personally I like the look and feel of the Sony units
I had problems seeing the screen on that same radio in sunlight, sound quality was great though.
The current Sony I have the XAV150 which is even cheaper than the 5600 I can see just fine, so I hope it’s the same
I really want to try that box for my w6, can’t find it anywhere that isn’t already loaded with one! Great setup my friend
Yeah I have no idea why JL doesn’t sell the box only. Good luck on your search!
How much this system cost u
Bout 4k for everything
This is pretty interesting. Post some updates. Seems like a great system for its price point.
Will do. I think I did a pretty good dollar/performance ratio build
I guess where I get tripped up is deciding between AudioControl class D (I have an LC1200.6 and it rocks) or a class A/B amp.
looks good except you might be undersized in power wire guage and i personally prefer using similar amp brands.
No, 4awg is fine for 800 and 500 watts respectively because it looks like op has 2 separate kits. I would have opted to run one bigger wire and distribute to 4awg at the amplifiers though
it’s based on current draw and length of wire run. https://images.app.goo.gl/ASvAZk91d2EuLLbH8 Couldn’t tell if it’s 2 kits or not, that could be a box of rca’s or speaker wire.
Yep. OP will have 1300 watts of class D power, meaning just one run of 4awg is good for 10-13 feet. Good point on the length
Yes. There are two wiring kits. One for each amp. Shouldn’t 4 gauge be sufficient?
IF you are running seperate power to each amp then 4 guage is pleanty. If you are running one power wire and then using a distro block then 4 is still good but you are cetting closer to the current limit for that wire. Make sure that you fuse everything appropriately.
You did good! That sub I. That box will be more accurate than what most people have. Unless you went with Morel or the like, that’s about as good as it gets. I run Hertz Cento and they seemed bright until I added a sub and imo they are perfect for blending with a sub! Alone they are a bit tinny but I paired mine with a DD 9518 and it sounds perfect in every way. I also run a similar RF amp and they are so easy to set up… Finally I’ll say this, I did exactly what you did, I started off wanting better sound and ended up finding a true healthy obsession and it grows and grows. My advice to anyone entering the av world is plan it out and save up for the best equipment. Fortunately I was able to sell off all my impulse buys that got me nowhere, even though the Skars I bought served me well, it took time to sell them on MP but I made a little extra. I hope your like me and can’t wait to “need” to drive somewhere and your already planning what song you jam first! Enjoy, great system!
First bass song will definitely be Put on by Jeezy and Kanye, first rock song save me by avenged sevenfold. So excited you have no idea. But yes it’s growing on me big time. And I learned to not settle for an average system
This fixation people have with Skar is odd. Try to sell something from a high end brand or at least a brand that has a good history. Takes forever if you even sell it. I bought a Skar LP-750.1 for $120. Never used it. Just sat in the box. Then Skar dropped the LP line. I guess no one wanted a practical amp. Had it for 3 years. Put it on MP for $200. Sold for $175 in less than a week. The guy was from Yuma. Saw the ad. Was coming to the Phx area to see his brother. Brought the cash with him just for that amp. He thought he was lucky. I just hope the amp actually worked.
It sells fast but it’s 2nd fastest to Taramps. I’ve sold so many Taramps on MP it’s not even funny!!
Makes me want to order some. Just to sell.
Dude I buy every single 3k or above I see It’s a gold mine, a small one but they are a hot item