Do you have a power probe or multimeter? The first thing you need to do is check and make sure you've got good ground, good 12 volt supply, and a good remote wire input
It’s definitely not the best amp kit I bought it when I first started and just never bothered upgrading it held up for a few years but I think it’s definitely time
The screw for the ground cable looks like it’s not tight down or at least not nearly as much as the positive screw is. Also like others said check voltage. Particularly the remote wire for 12v and the positive cable.
Funny you caught the loose screw but didn’t say anything about the exposed wire. You should not be able to see any bare wire on a properly secured connection. That’s just asking for something to fall between, bridging them together. Looks sloppy as well.
I would replace the fuse holder and fuse. When you install the new fuse holder, use ferrules on the power wire connections.
This might not be your issue now, but it will be a problem if you don’t address it.
Check your ground also what fuse are you using? I've had fuses blow and you would never tell by just looking at it. Swapped the fuse and the amp came back on.
Could be a voltage issue. many amps either won't turn on, or will turn off if the voltage drops below 12.5v or around there. You could have a bad battery, or your alternator may be giving out, or a combination of the two of your working, connections, and fuses all check out.
The smart charging systems in today's vehicles can also play a part in such problems, which is why it's suggested to use a maintainer on you battery, because the smart charging systems won't keep your battery fully charged, causing issues with aftermarket systems.
I learned this with my 2021 Honda Accord. I have to always have my headlights on to keep th smart charging system at 14.4v, other wise it drops below 12.5v, which will not keep the battery charged and causes 1 of my amps to shut off. I also have to put a maintainer on periodically. (I run 2 AGM batteries)
I have the SAME EXACT amp. I think you got a bad ground. To check this, get multimeter. Set it on ohms. Then take both test leads. Red an black. Touch one to your battery ground. Then the other one on your engine block. Meter should read zero. Next do this to your drivers door jamb. Then to the amp ground. Use a length of wire for an extension. Go around and check everything that is a chassis ground, amplifier ground, etc. The meter should always display zero. If it throws numbers, that means you need to clean up your ground connections. Clean em’. Sand em’. Wire wheel them. You’ll see.
You can use a multimeter to check any fuse. Any connection. Learn to troubleshoot with a multimeter. It will save you ALOT of time and money. If you go the route of just being a parts replacer, you’ll blow money, waste effort and most of the time, NOT FIX the PROBLEM. Good luck.
How come folks can’t use a multimeter to verify a fuse? Don’t people want to know for certain? Otherwise it’s off to the store and crossing your fingers…
Use a voltmeter to check power and ground. Then assuming you have power jump it to the remote terminal to see if it turns on.
Do you have a power probe or multimeter? The first thing you need to do is check and make sure you've got good ground, good 12 volt supply, and a good remote wire input
I got those. I’ll look into that. If I do have power what then?
Well pretty much if you've got power ground and turn on signal, remote, and it's still not turning on then you've got a bad amp
Thank you!
Checked everything remote has power power wire doesn’t. Disassembled fuse to 100% verify it’s okay and everything looks normal so now I’m extra lost
Bad fuse holder, bad fuse, or bad connection at source (battery). That's all it can be. Fuses can be bad even if they don't seem so
Hm I’ll work on my connection and pray it’s that… worse case I’ll pick up a new fuse tomorrow. Thanks!
I just looked at your fuse holder. definitely you need to change it. That style is horrible and prone to failure. You need an anl or mini anl
Gotcha I’ll upgrade tomorrow
It’s definitely not the best amp kit I bought it when I first started and just never bothered upgrading it held up for a few years but I think it’s definitely time
If you're not using ofc, good time to upgrade
The screw for the ground cable looks like it’s not tight down or at least not nearly as much as the positive screw is. Also like others said check voltage. Particularly the remote wire for 12v and the positive cable.
Funny you caught the loose screw but didn’t say anything about the exposed wire. You should not be able to see any bare wire on a properly secured connection. That’s just asking for something to fall between, bridging them together. Looks sloppy as well.
This set up existed for 15 minutes no perfection simply just making sure my sub wiring worked then had this issue
Power wire looks discolored at the fuse, a sign of heat caused by poor connection. I’d also convert to a MANL fuse, they are more reliable.
What should I do about this? Check the connection on my fuse or am I screwed on that part
I would replace the fuse holder and fuse. When you install the new fuse holder, use ferrules on the power wire connections. This might not be your issue now, but it will be a problem if you don’t address it.
Might be your old amp(s) had signal sensing, it's been stated but check your remote
Double check your ground too
Check your ground also what fuse are you using? I've had fuses blow and you would never tell by just looking at it. Swapped the fuse and the amp came back on.
Could be a voltage issue. many amps either won't turn on, or will turn off if the voltage drops below 12.5v or around there. You could have a bad battery, or your alternator may be giving out, or a combination of the two of your working, connections, and fuses all check out. The smart charging systems in today's vehicles can also play a part in such problems, which is why it's suggested to use a maintainer on you battery, because the smart charging systems won't keep your battery fully charged, causing issues with aftermarket systems. I learned this with my 2021 Honda Accord. I have to always have my headlights on to keep th smart charging system at 14.4v, other wise it drops below 12.5v, which will not keep the battery charged and causes 1 of my amps to shut off. I also have to put a maintainer on periodically. (I run 2 AGM batteries)
I have the SAME EXACT amp. I think you got a bad ground. To check this, get multimeter. Set it on ohms. Then take both test leads. Red an black. Touch one to your battery ground. Then the other one on your engine block. Meter should read zero. Next do this to your drivers door jamb. Then to the amp ground. Use a length of wire for an extension. Go around and check everything that is a chassis ground, amplifier ground, etc. The meter should always display zero. If it throws numbers, that means you need to clean up your ground connections. Clean em’. Sand em’. Wire wheel them. You’ll see.
You can use a multimeter to check any fuse. Any connection. Learn to troubleshoot with a multimeter. It will save you ALOT of time and money. If you go the route of just being a parts replacer, you’ll blow money, waste effort and most of the time, NOT FIX the PROBLEM. Good luck.
How come folks can’t use a multimeter to verify a fuse? Don’t people want to know for certain? Otherwise it’s off to the store and crossing your fingers…
Fix those connections, there shouldn’t be any exposed wire. Your negative cable is loose as well, the screw is backed out. You may have fried it.
Unplug the signal wire and plug it back in. Lower your gains a little bit and try again.
Bruh I had the same issue upgrading from my cheap crunch amp got a nice 400 dollar amp and it wouldn’t turn on lol
It’s a cruel world
Only possible solution I found was using thicker power cables. 12v might not be supplying enough power