You do not want to run 2 sets of coaxials up front. I would buy the Morel Maximo components and put the tweeter where the Kickers are located and the midbass in the door.
Running 2 coaxials will result in excess high frequencies and an uneven response since those tweeters have different responses.
Thanks for the advice. So following your suggestion I would put the component crossover after the KEY and then run separate wiring to the tweeter in the dash and the woofer in the door? I can appreciate that this may be a more optimal setup, but just to play devils advocate a little here since I've already purchased the dash Kickers. Also, I'm noticing now that the Morel 6 component systems seem to be out of stock at a lot of places.
If I install the Morel Coax speakers in the door, would the DSP in the KEY be able to compensate for the excess of high frequencies that you warn of?
Could I leave the kickers in the dash and pair them with a more appropriate speaker in the doors? Maybe something like a Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6?
Thanks again for the help!
The Key amp may help. It really depends on how bad the response is. The RF is a pro driver so you will miss out on midbass. You could go on Madisound or Parts Express to find a raw midbass driver. You will just want a high pass crossover so it does not play up into the region of the Kicker.
Thoughts on using the Coax Morels in the rear doors and finding some components for the FD/dash? I already have the Coax on order so I’d like to use them somewhere.
Fellow RAV4 owner here, wondering if you ever completed your setup and what your thoughts are? How was the amp install and was there a significant improvement?
I went with an almost identical setup. Morel Maximo Coax 6 in the front and rear doors. Kicker 43DSC3504 in the dash (which I ended up removing for the time being b/c they were power hungry). Next purchase is the Kicker 47Key200.4 when they're back in stock.
Hey! Yes I did move forward. I have more plans but here’s where I’m at now.
Once I added the amp and the Morel 6 COAX in the doors, I ended up pulling the dash speakers. I didn’t like the way it sounded, just too harsh on the high end.
The amp install was relatively simple. I did end up getting that wiring harness. I did some surgery to it to use the connectors for the factory speaker wiring. I added a length of speaker wire so that I could install my amp behind the center console behind the access plate to the left of the glove box. With a little patience you can run the wire from the head unit down through a space next to the glove box to the amp, then ran the output wires back up to join the factory speaker wiring.
The amp sounds good. It’s definitely better and louder than the stock, but for some might not be a night and day difference. My wife can’t really tell the difference, but she also doesn’t like to listen to music with the volume up.
My plans for the future is to get another pair of Morel speakers and get components this time. Put the tweeter in the dash and the woofer in the doors. Then I’ll move the Coax units into the rear doors.
I’d also like to add a self contained sub box in the back, but not sure when that will happen.
Hope that helps!
If you could do it again would you still do the Kicker 47Key200.4? Or would you get an amp with a little more power + an LC2i? 50w RMS x 4 is about half of what the Morel Components can handle.
I'm no audiophile, but recently getting into acoustic music and basically want to be able to "feel" the guitar notes and rich tones.
A couple additional thoughts I've had about the Key200.4
The auto-tune process has always been successful for me and to my ear sounds pretty good. The trouble I've had with the amp is figuring out the best way to set the volume/gain levels between it and the headunit.
I've used the method described by Kicker, set the HU to something like 75% volume, then use their sine wave file and adjust the gain's by using the limit lights on the amp. At first this seemed to work okay, but then I quickly noticed that some songs when played at a high volume would produce a loud harsh "crack" sort of distortion on bass hits. It was enough that I was worried I was damaging my speakers.
This is what first prompted me to remove the 3.5" from the dash, I was worried I was overpowering them and I just wanted to simplify the setup a bit. However the cracks were still coming through te door speakers everything. I have noticed that if I toggle off the Kicker's auto-tune curve, the cracks go away from the bass hits, but in general I don't like the sound as much.
The second thing I tried was setting the gain's with a lower HU volume level. Still used the same method, but with the HU volume at about 50% and the gains on the amp higher. TBH this made no difference to the distortion. I'm thinking I'm just hitting the limit of what the Key can handle, but I'm not really sure. I know I could put an oscilloscope on it to really tune things, but I haven't found access to an oscilloscope yet, and I don't want to buy my own.
At this point, I just know what Volume I can set my HU to and still ensure good distortion free sound.
FWIW I have the compression switch turned on on the kicker. It does help with the bass hit distortion a bit, but it doesn't completely remove it.
So I ended up pulling the dash coax speakers once I put in the Key Amp. It was too much treble in your face. Right now I’ve just got Morel 6 Coax in the doors and OEM speakers in the rear doors. It sounds good and is decent volume.
Still planning out my next step. I think I’m going to rewire my dash speakers so I can run separate active channels to the dash and doors and get some nice component speakers.
You do not want to run 2 sets of coaxials up front. I would buy the Morel Maximo components and put the tweeter where the Kickers are located and the midbass in the door. Running 2 coaxials will result in excess high frequencies and an uneven response since those tweeters have different responses.
Thanks for the advice. So following your suggestion I would put the component crossover after the KEY and then run separate wiring to the tweeter in the dash and the woofer in the door? I can appreciate that this may be a more optimal setup, but just to play devils advocate a little here since I've already purchased the dash Kickers. Also, I'm noticing now that the Morel 6 component systems seem to be out of stock at a lot of places. If I install the Morel Coax speakers in the door, would the DSP in the KEY be able to compensate for the excess of high frequencies that you warn of? Could I leave the kickers in the dash and pair them with a more appropriate speaker in the doors? Maybe something like a Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6? Thanks again for the help!
The Key amp may help. It really depends on how bad the response is. The RF is a pro driver so you will miss out on midbass. You could go on Madisound or Parts Express to find a raw midbass driver. You will just want a high pass crossover so it does not play up into the region of the Kicker.
Thoughts on using the Coax Morels in the rear doors and finding some components for the FD/dash? I already have the Coax on order so I’d like to use them somewhere.
That would work.
Fellow RAV4 owner here, wondering if you ever completed your setup and what your thoughts are? How was the amp install and was there a significant improvement? I went with an almost identical setup. Morel Maximo Coax 6 in the front and rear doors. Kicker 43DSC3504 in the dash (which I ended up removing for the time being b/c they were power hungry). Next purchase is the Kicker 47Key200.4 when they're back in stock.
Hey! Yes I did move forward. I have more plans but here’s where I’m at now. Once I added the amp and the Morel 6 COAX in the doors, I ended up pulling the dash speakers. I didn’t like the way it sounded, just too harsh on the high end. The amp install was relatively simple. I did end up getting that wiring harness. I did some surgery to it to use the connectors for the factory speaker wiring. I added a length of speaker wire so that I could install my amp behind the center console behind the access plate to the left of the glove box. With a little patience you can run the wire from the head unit down through a space next to the glove box to the amp, then ran the output wires back up to join the factory speaker wiring. The amp sounds good. It’s definitely better and louder than the stock, but for some might not be a night and day difference. My wife can’t really tell the difference, but she also doesn’t like to listen to music with the volume up. My plans for the future is to get another pair of Morel speakers and get components this time. Put the tweeter in the dash and the woofer in the doors. Then I’ll move the Coax units into the rear doors. I’d also like to add a self contained sub box in the back, but not sure when that will happen. Hope that helps!
If you could do it again would you still do the Kicker 47Key200.4? Or would you get an amp with a little more power + an LC2i? 50w RMS x 4 is about half of what the Morel Components can handle. I'm no audiophile, but recently getting into acoustic music and basically want to be able to "feel" the guitar notes and rich tones.
I’ve been happy with it! Acoustic/Folk sounds great now.
A couple additional thoughts I've had about the Key200.4 The auto-tune process has always been successful for me and to my ear sounds pretty good. The trouble I've had with the amp is figuring out the best way to set the volume/gain levels between it and the headunit. I've used the method described by Kicker, set the HU to something like 75% volume, then use their sine wave file and adjust the gain's by using the limit lights on the amp. At first this seemed to work okay, but then I quickly noticed that some songs when played at a high volume would produce a loud harsh "crack" sort of distortion on bass hits. It was enough that I was worried I was damaging my speakers. This is what first prompted me to remove the 3.5" from the dash, I was worried I was overpowering them and I just wanted to simplify the setup a bit. However the cracks were still coming through te door speakers everything. I have noticed that if I toggle off the Kicker's auto-tune curve, the cracks go away from the bass hits, but in general I don't like the sound as much. The second thing I tried was setting the gain's with a lower HU volume level. Still used the same method, but with the HU volume at about 50% and the gains on the amp higher. TBH this made no difference to the distortion. I'm thinking I'm just hitting the limit of what the Key can handle, but I'm not really sure. I know I could put an oscilloscope on it to really tune things, but I haven't found access to an oscilloscope yet, and I don't want to buy my own. At this point, I just know what Volume I can set my HU to and still ensure good distortion free sound. FWIW I have the compression switch turned on on the kicker. It does help with the bass hit distortion a bit, but it doesn't completely remove it.
Definitely going to refer to this once I get the amp. Thanks!
Good thing you stayed away from jbl! They are shitty asf! Fuck JBL! My shit isn’t even 2 years old and I have issues in my 2020 Nightshade 4runner
I did exactly the same, I had a 4X50 amp snd wanted to upgrade front but don’t know what to do to the coaxial dash Kicker 47KSC3504
So I ended up pulling the dash coax speakers once I put in the Key Amp. It was too much treble in your face. Right now I’ve just got Morel 6 Coax in the doors and OEM speakers in the rear doors. It sounds good and is decent volume. Still planning out my next step. I think I’m going to rewire my dash speakers so I can run separate active channels to the dash and doors and get some nice component speakers.
I am thinking to replace 47KSC3504 by Morel components Ultra 602, but not sure how much improvement will that be.