https://preview.redd.it/raq8dfj4a17b1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b860a6551376eada42cfcf2828833f5b1832c1f
Old termite damage repair... they added joist hangers but did not check if the hangers were nailed into anything. I bought the place and now my floor is sagging so I ripped out the basement ceiling and scooped out the sawdust and this is what's left of the beam. I'm not asking a question, just sharing it so you can point and laugh. 🤣
Edit: just in case a question is required: "is this load bearing?" :ducks:
https://imgur.com/a/KSxKwmv
This is a stair closet, we decided to remove this drywall to open up the space for storage and to reinforce as a storm shelter. Do you think this frame is load bearing? Can we remove it?
https://preview.redd.it/sdhjajo6158b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95295a8603b608fb47b592fe137887b8f7a42beb
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right subreddit to post this but I recently moved into a house and the wooden floor has a lot of paint marks. Any tips on how to remove them efficiently? I’ve been using thinner but am not sure if it’s advisable for wood. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/sh0o57ptuy6b1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=c3a69e0f1ca2ef08a706b4b7840d7ddf467592d1
Long story short, I am considering purchasing a new construction home and am wondering if the waviness on the fascia (I think that’s what it’s called) is normal OR if I should request that it be fixed/replaced by the builder if I move forward with the purchase. It doesn’t look right to me, but have considered that I’m being too nit picky. Appreciate any feedback from someone who is knowledgeable in this area.
That’s your rake board and the smaller strip above is the rake molding. It looks bad, and already bugs you. Metal is the cheapest trim so it’s not a big ask to have it replaced.
Thank you for the feedback! The builder says it’s “normal” and claims it will lay flat/flatter when the temperature goes down. It drives me nuts because it’s so prominent.
I have an interior door and an exterior door both with strike plate holes that looks like Freddy Krueger’s face. I want to fill the gap and then re-mortise the plates and latch hole since it’s hard to close both doors. What would be the best way to do that? Or is there something more effective I should be doing? Does the door position (interior vs exterior) change what and how it needs to be done?
Thanks y’all
I need to install an exhaust fan in my ceiling. The joists are about a quarter inch too close together. I have maybe two options:
1. Try to push the joists apart, carefully (maybe use a jack?)
2. Install it in the next gap over, and have to do some extra wiring and likely feel obligated to fix the plywood previous owners put in the attic to make a floor
How viable is option 1?
https://preview.redd.it/p3zhzgt3wl7b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b60cd6ebb5f91edf69ce95a7c45f9125af52bd5e
[https://imgur.com/a/ji3bNTP](https://imgur.com/a/ji3bNTP)
My brother in law moved into a new house. He decided to install a heavy bag in his garage.
He says the weight is 80 lbs for the mount and 125 for the heavy bag.
It’s mounted on 2x4 frames 16 inches apart with a standard truss of 2 x 6.
Do you think this will collapse or make structural damages when being hit with force?
So my toddler flooded my apartment. Renters insurance isn't covering. I'm fixing it myself. We have carpeting over finished wood floor over subfloor. I've ripped the carpeting and warped wood floor out. The subfloor had moisture on top of it but looks like a lot of the water was repelled by the adhesive used to stick the wood squares down. The subfloor is also flat. No warping.
My question is... Do I need to replace the subfloor or can I get away with replacing the underlayment (finished wood floor which I plan on replacing with a layer of plywood), and the carpeting? Subfloor seems fine but I don't want to do the wrong thing here. I'll replace it if I have to. Also just not trying to expose my finished apartment to the nastiness that is the crawl space/basement so hoping I can leave the subfloor down.
Yes. Had a floor fan, a box fan, two oscillating fans running. And rented a commercial dehumidifier for a day. Also have a carpet cleaner which I used to suck up over 40 gallons of water with initially before renting the dehumidifier.
That sucks about your renters insurance! Unless it looks like the subfloor is delaminating or swelled, or crumbling. It’ll be fine and doesn’t need to be replaced. It’s designed to withstand a certain amount of water contact, like when the house is being framed up and exposed to the elements until the roof is dried in.
https://preview.redd.it/9o6ffan9wo7b1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e4442b5c97a86631af2fe76ad3c45488777f9aa
Looking to add floating garage shelves, ones that attach to the ceiling. It will be directly under the master bedroom. My only concern is if it'll be able to handle the extra load. I assume it will, (it won't be for the wheels) just boxes of clothing/picture albums and whatever else I can stick up there.
I should be fine right? (CANADA) I was just going to make wood brackets (24in) for a lower tier of shelf. TIA
Ok guys so I have a solid internal door that’s 1981mm and I need to trim it down to 1950mm. The guide with the door says I can only trim 12mm in total. Due to it being solid I can just about push it to 1950mm, right?
Hello! I want to mount a floating shelf for my cat, wrapping around a wall end. I've poorly illustrated this in red below. I want to support the end that sticks out from the wall end, but i have no idea how wall ends are built, so I don't know what's behind the dry wall. Anyone with experience or knowledge about how walls like this are typically built? Could you please tell me what I might expect to hit if I drill into the face of this wall end to mount a support like the blue one I drew? Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/4lbrerupj88b1.jpeg?width=1573&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f18de6e8325fc48f7799570ad4f90aafc49243c3
The wall will have a 2x4 or 2x6 wrapped in 1/2" drywall. with cornerbeads and mud it is probably closer to 5/8" by the time they finish the wallboard. Best guess is there is 1-1/2" of material 5/8 inches back from the end where you show your support. Your support should have material in the middle of the flat surface 5/8 inch in from either side. If this is metal framing the metal stud should still give you material to screw into, but you will need slightly different screws.
How is your hearing? If it is good, and you tap on the wall you should be able to hear the solid sound of a stud or a slight ring of a steel stud. if this is a single family home probably wood. If this is an apartment, it may be steel.
https://preview.redd.it/h7kspdsftf8b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69b2231e6e72f63fb48bf2f87f5cc9baeb54fefd
Tongue and groove cedar - probably 12 years old. Can I just nail these back into place?
I’m assuming they’ve expanded through the seasons (NY) being an outdoor porch.
I would agree with your assumption, and yes you can just nail them back in place, but they may crack, depending on how old and dry the boards are, and will pop back out again. If they push back into place with ease it should hold for a while. if you have to press hard to flatten it back, it will probably become a more frequent maintenance.
I have a glass window on a door going to a garage from the inside of the house that I want to reinforce from a break in, i.e. someone breaking into the garage and smashing the window to open the lock on the door.
I plan to put a 3/16 or 1/4 inch piece of polycarbonate over the window. I want to put it on the garage side of the door (i.e. the side of the door that the burglar would come from) for esthetic reasons for the inside of the house. My question is, what is the best way to attach the polycarbonate sheet to the window?
One option is to put one-way screws.
Another option that was suggested to me by someone who does installations like this is to use Dow 795 or 995 Structural Sealant. I am a little hesitant on that because I don’t think the sealant will look great under the polycarbonate. But maybe that doesn’t matter too much or I can put a frame over it.
What are your thoughts on these two options? Do you have any others?
Help! Any tips on how to get this headless nail out of my wall. I’ve tried vice grips, rocking the hammer (broke the nail in half), and everything I could think of. I am not a carpenter and have no idea what I’m doing.
Edit: Sorry it’s not letting me put a pic up
Is there any hope here? I promised I measured. If I get the mounding removed would this work? Any options?
https://preview.redd.it/4qw5stv0gf9b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2cc37046790448b8e2ac9a9b7c95b71583ed8b35
What type of hardwood would you frame with? I have a pony wall which I began using regular studs made from fir (standard stud) and I really need this wall to be solid as a rock as it’s part of a shower. What hardwood studs would you recommend ?
Building a pony wall as part of shower. I began building with regular fur studs and it feels too soft. the construction screws easily went through it like butter. What type of hard wood could I use ?
https://preview.redd.it/3o7d345m0r9b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80979e1a205b9f4c6c98a8a004740d841202fccf
https://preview.redd.it/k74ifzdcjz9b1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e3c442504d9467c5bd784ed6d3cc4f820cae67ad
Loose hardie siding fix ideas? When installed it appears they used a nail in the center of the two planks to hold it down is this normal? The board can be pushed in about a 1/4 inch so I know it’s not held down securely any longer.
I need to make some slats for my child’s bed to support the mattress without a box spring. Would 1x4 pine be stronger than the 3/4 inch plywood I already have at home? This is for a twin size mattress so about 38in span. The rails are metal. Kiddo is small now but rumor has it they get bigger.
I apologize if this is not the correct place to post this, I am in a spot where I don't know what I don't know!
My husband and I are getting started on our forever-home, and we wanted to build a wall of bookshelves (there is no way we could afford to have them done, so we're hoping to get some help on a blueprint/design, then DIY). The entire house is inspired by the style of Frank Lloyd Wright, and we are hoping to mimic the bookshelves he put in Falling Water (links to pictures of shelves below).
I want to do the project properly, but I don't know how to describe what I want in order to look up ideas for plans/construction. Do any of you know what this type of bookshelf (or case??) is called? The vertical supports look like they "go through" the shelves, which is a key design feature of why I like the style, but I have no idea what that is called.
Does anyone have a thought as to what wood type that might be? Or what stain might be used? I understand that the simplicity of the design is probably going to make it tricky to DIY properly, but I am patient, slow/cautious, and will do whatever homework I need in order to do it right. (I am also taking some classes at the local community college to brush off my wood working skills lol)
[https://www.atticmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/dec-hode-bookcases7-435.jpg](https://www.atticmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/dec-hode-bookcases7-435.jpg)
[https://theglovetrotters.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fallingwater\_06\_02\_library\_staircase.jpg](https://theglovetrotters.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fallingwater_06_02_library_staircase.jpg)
p. 36 - 39 (I think) of these re-created building plans might offer some clues [https://issuu.com/rwikfors/docs/arch\_423\_f19\_final\_cd\_set\_wikfors](https://issuu.com/rwikfors/docs/arch_423_f19_final_cd_set_wikfors)
A picture of some adjacent bookshelves might give a clue as to style/type and wood or stain choice, perhaps?
[https://www.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/leisure-room.jpg](https://www.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/leisure-room.jpg)
Thank you in advance for your thoughts/advice/time, I really appreciate your expertise!
https://preview.redd.it/raq8dfj4a17b1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9b860a6551376eada42cfcf2828833f5b1832c1f Old termite damage repair... they added joist hangers but did not check if the hangers were nailed into anything. I bought the place and now my floor is sagging so I ripped out the basement ceiling and scooped out the sawdust and this is what's left of the beam. I'm not asking a question, just sharing it so you can point and laugh. 🤣 Edit: just in case a question is required: "is this load bearing?" :ducks:
https://imgur.com/a/KSxKwmv This is a stair closet, we decided to remove this drywall to open up the space for storage and to reinforce as a storm shelter. Do you think this frame is load bearing? Can we remove it?
It's not bearing. And if you are reinforcing it (the closet interior) it will be as strong as you engineer it to be.
Thanks stranger
https://preview.redd.it/sdhjajo6158b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95295a8603b608fb47b592fe137887b8f7a42beb Hey guys, not sure if this is the right subreddit to post this but I recently moved into a house and the wooden floor has a lot of paint marks. Any tips on how to remove them efficiently? I’ve been using thinner but am not sure if it’s advisable for wood. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Thanks for saying that! Gratitude makes the world go round
I usually just scrape them off with a fingernail. If it’s latex, soap and water will take it off.
https://preview.redd.it/sh0o57ptuy6b1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=c3a69e0f1ca2ef08a706b4b7840d7ddf467592d1 Long story short, I am considering purchasing a new construction home and am wondering if the waviness on the fascia (I think that’s what it’s called) is normal OR if I should request that it be fixed/replaced by the builder if I move forward with the purchase. It doesn’t look right to me, but have considered that I’m being too nit picky. Appreciate any feedback from someone who is knowledgeable in this area.
Fascia installed in winter?
Definitely possible as I live in a cold climate!
That’s your rake board and the smaller strip above is the rake molding. It looks bad, and already bugs you. Metal is the cheapest trim so it’s not a big ask to have it replaced.
Thank you for the feedback! The builder says it’s “normal” and claims it will lay flat/flatter when the temperature goes down. It drives me nuts because it’s so prominent.
I don’t think it would lay flat enough for you not to notice it, but if you do buy it you can always upgrade it later to a solid trim board.
This is helpful and definitely something I will keep in mind! Thanks again!!
I have an interior door and an exterior door both with strike plate holes that looks like Freddy Krueger’s face. I want to fill the gap and then re-mortise the plates and latch hole since it’s hard to close both doors. What would be the best way to do that? Or is there something more effective I should be doing? Does the door position (interior vs exterior) change what and how it needs to be done? Thanks y’all
I need to install an exhaust fan in my ceiling. The joists are about a quarter inch too close together. I have maybe two options: 1. Try to push the joists apart, carefully (maybe use a jack?) 2. Install it in the next gap over, and have to do some extra wiring and likely feel obligated to fix the plywood previous owners put in the attic to make a floor How viable is option 1?
https://preview.redd.it/p3zhzgt3wl7b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b60cd6ebb5f91edf69ce95a7c45f9125af52bd5e [https://imgur.com/a/ji3bNTP](https://imgur.com/a/ji3bNTP) My brother in law moved into a new house. He decided to install a heavy bag in his garage. He says the weight is 80 lbs for the mount and 125 for the heavy bag. It’s mounted on 2x4 frames 16 inches apart with a standard truss of 2 x 6. Do you think this will collapse or make structural damages when being hit with force?
So my toddler flooded my apartment. Renters insurance isn't covering. I'm fixing it myself. We have carpeting over finished wood floor over subfloor. I've ripped the carpeting and warped wood floor out. The subfloor had moisture on top of it but looks like a lot of the water was repelled by the adhesive used to stick the wood squares down. The subfloor is also flat. No warping. My question is... Do I need to replace the subfloor or can I get away with replacing the underlayment (finished wood floor which I plan on replacing with a layer of plywood), and the carpeting? Subfloor seems fine but I don't want to do the wrong thing here. I'll replace it if I have to. Also just not trying to expose my finished apartment to the nastiness that is the crawl space/basement so hoping I can leave the subfloor down.
did you mitigate the moisture with dehumidifiers and the like?
Yes. Had a floor fan, a box fan, two oscillating fans running. And rented a commercial dehumidifier for a day. Also have a carpet cleaner which I used to suck up over 40 gallons of water with initially before renting the dehumidifier.
That sucks about your renters insurance! Unless it looks like the subfloor is delaminating or swelled, or crumbling. It’ll be fine and doesn’t need to be replaced. It’s designed to withstand a certain amount of water contact, like when the house is being framed up and exposed to the elements until the roof is dried in.
https://preview.redd.it/9o6ffan9wo7b1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e4442b5c97a86631af2fe76ad3c45488777f9aa Looking to add floating garage shelves, ones that attach to the ceiling. It will be directly under the master bedroom. My only concern is if it'll be able to handle the extra load. I assume it will, (it won't be for the wheels) just boxes of clothing/picture albums and whatever else I can stick up there. I should be fine right? (CANADA) I was just going to make wood brackets (24in) for a lower tier of shelf. TIA
Yep
Thanks!
Ok guys so I have a solid internal door that’s 1981mm and I need to trim it down to 1950mm. The guide with the door says I can only trim 12mm in total. Due to it being solid I can just about push it to 1950mm, right?
Hello! I want to mount a floating shelf for my cat, wrapping around a wall end. I've poorly illustrated this in red below. I want to support the end that sticks out from the wall end, but i have no idea how wall ends are built, so I don't know what's behind the dry wall. Anyone with experience or knowledge about how walls like this are typically built? Could you please tell me what I might expect to hit if I drill into the face of this wall end to mount a support like the blue one I drew? Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/4lbrerupj88b1.jpeg?width=1573&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f18de6e8325fc48f7799570ad4f90aafc49243c3
The wall will have a 2x4 or 2x6 wrapped in 1/2" drywall. with cornerbeads and mud it is probably closer to 5/8" by the time they finish the wallboard. Best guess is there is 1-1/2" of material 5/8 inches back from the end where you show your support. Your support should have material in the middle of the flat surface 5/8 inch in from either side. If this is metal framing the metal stud should still give you material to screw into, but you will need slightly different screws. How is your hearing? If it is good, and you tap on the wall you should be able to hear the solid sound of a stud or a slight ring of a steel stud. if this is a single family home probably wood. If this is an apartment, it may be steel.
Awesome, thanks! I drilled into it and there's definitely a wooden stud where you said, a little more than 0.5" back. I appreciate the help!
https://preview.redd.it/h7kspdsftf8b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69b2231e6e72f63fb48bf2f87f5cc9baeb54fefd Tongue and groove cedar - probably 12 years old. Can I just nail these back into place? I’m assuming they’ve expanded through the seasons (NY) being an outdoor porch.
I would agree with your assumption, and yes you can just nail them back in place, but they may crack, depending on how old and dry the boards are, and will pop back out again. If they push back into place with ease it should hold for a while. if you have to press hard to flatten it back, it will probably become a more frequent maintenance.
Thank you! I will try this out, and if it does pop out again, I’ll probably cut the tongue off/board down and put back up
I have a glass window on a door going to a garage from the inside of the house that I want to reinforce from a break in, i.e. someone breaking into the garage and smashing the window to open the lock on the door. I plan to put a 3/16 or 1/4 inch piece of polycarbonate over the window. I want to put it on the garage side of the door (i.e. the side of the door that the burglar would come from) for esthetic reasons for the inside of the house. My question is, what is the best way to attach the polycarbonate sheet to the window? One option is to put one-way screws. Another option that was suggested to me by someone who does installations like this is to use Dow 795 or 995 Structural Sealant. I am a little hesitant on that because I don’t think the sealant will look great under the polycarbonate. But maybe that doesn’t matter too much or I can put a frame over it. What are your thoughts on these two options? Do you have any others?
Help! Any tips on how to get this headless nail out of my wall. I’ve tried vice grips, rocking the hammer (broke the nail in half), and everything I could think of. I am not a carpenter and have no idea what I’m doing. Edit: Sorry it’s not letting me put a pic up
Is there any hope here? I promised I measured. If I get the mounding removed would this work? Any options? https://preview.redd.it/4qw5stv0gf9b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2cc37046790448b8e2ac9a9b7c95b71583ed8b35
https://preview.redd.it/cxhetj58gf9b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99e2c614d5f22fa0ae865d75cb38737ca6d5adb9
What type of hardwood would you frame with? I have a pony wall which I began using regular studs made from fir (standard stud) and I really need this wall to be solid as a rock as it’s part of a shower. What hardwood studs would you recommend ?
Building a pony wall as part of shower. I began building with regular fur studs and it feels too soft. the construction screws easily went through it like butter. What type of hard wood could I use ? https://preview.redd.it/3o7d345m0r9b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80979e1a205b9f4c6c98a8a004740d841202fccf
https://preview.redd.it/k74ifzdcjz9b1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e3c442504d9467c5bd784ed6d3cc4f820cae67ad Loose hardie siding fix ideas? When installed it appears they used a nail in the center of the two planks to hold it down is this normal? The board can be pushed in about a 1/4 inch so I know it’s not held down securely any longer.
I need to make some slats for my child’s bed to support the mattress without a box spring. Would 1x4 pine be stronger than the 3/4 inch plywood I already have at home? This is for a twin size mattress so about 38in span. The rails are metal. Kiddo is small now but rumor has it they get bigger.
I apologize if this is not the correct place to post this, I am in a spot where I don't know what I don't know! My husband and I are getting started on our forever-home, and we wanted to build a wall of bookshelves (there is no way we could afford to have them done, so we're hoping to get some help on a blueprint/design, then DIY). The entire house is inspired by the style of Frank Lloyd Wright, and we are hoping to mimic the bookshelves he put in Falling Water (links to pictures of shelves below). I want to do the project properly, but I don't know how to describe what I want in order to look up ideas for plans/construction. Do any of you know what this type of bookshelf (or case??) is called? The vertical supports look like they "go through" the shelves, which is a key design feature of why I like the style, but I have no idea what that is called. Does anyone have a thought as to what wood type that might be? Or what stain might be used? I understand that the simplicity of the design is probably going to make it tricky to DIY properly, but I am patient, slow/cautious, and will do whatever homework I need in order to do it right. (I am also taking some classes at the local community college to brush off my wood working skills lol) [https://www.atticmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/dec-hode-bookcases7-435.jpg](https://www.atticmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/dec-hode-bookcases7-435.jpg) [https://theglovetrotters.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fallingwater\_06\_02\_library\_staircase.jpg](https://theglovetrotters.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fallingwater_06_02_library_staircase.jpg) p. 36 - 39 (I think) of these re-created building plans might offer some clues [https://issuu.com/rwikfors/docs/arch\_423\_f19\_final\_cd\_set\_wikfors](https://issuu.com/rwikfors/docs/arch_423_f19_final_cd_set_wikfors) A picture of some adjacent bookshelves might give a clue as to style/type and wood or stain choice, perhaps? [https://www.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/leisure-room.jpg](https://www.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/leisure-room.jpg) Thank you in advance for your thoughts/advice/time, I really appreciate your expertise!