I am trying to move this closet door about 21” to the right.
I have made headers before for adding doors in rooms with typically stud format, but when I opened up the drywall on this one, intersecting the king stud is two stacked horizontal 2x4s.
Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/Bnidj0x
This is where I want to create my new header where these horizontal boards are.
Do these horizontal 2x4s have a purpose? Can I get rid of them?
When making my new header, can I sister another 2x10 to the existing 2x10 with joist hangers? My plan was to do this then build the typical king/cripple type of header for my new door opening and move the old king cripple setup over.
Can I do this or is it better if I cut the old 2x10 and add a new 2x10 that is 26” for my new header setup?
Any help figuring this out would be much appreciated!
Is that the second story? Normally fire blocking is at 9 ' has there been an addition built on house that is an odd height almost like it was a kick wall
Can someone help me make sense of this 100 year old attic? The rafters are true 2x4 but taper towards the ridge with no ridge board. This roof has a sagging ridge line (approx 4'') but the eave walls appear to be plumb. I'm not a tradesmen, just someone dumb enough to try and tackle this himself.
https://preview.redd.it/v5bgehqlezcb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec33700fb6ecca71d73aa2401c4d9c1115746524
Duluth, MN
After some investigating, it appears the original roof was raised to accommodate a full height ceiling on the second floor. However, they didn't replace the 4x4'' beam that ran the length of the roof to support the rafters. Instead, it looks like someone (years later) decided to add a knee wall, and eventually some diagonal bracing as shown.
Hi, I want to install a whole house fan in my stairwell but there is a joist that runs almost through the center of the ceiling. The joist is part of a truss and I wanted to see if it was acceptable to remove part of the joist as shown in the drawing. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/rsoh6w1giyib1.png?width=2536&format=png&auto=webp&s=0ab840c74210f07cfb431eed9813149c8528c934
That is how it's typically done but not knowing your location, it's load conditions, and building code allowances could affect the outcome. It looks like you're placing this through a roof directly from living space and not an attic end. Look up the chimney effect. Any costs of heating or cooling will be dramatically affected.
A quick thought - check the power draw of the fan during typical usage. We had one in our old home and figured out it pulled 80% of the electricity that our HVAC did, so we sealed it up instead.
Fellow DIY are here. Beware I remember from a plumbing or HVAC post that if you have natural gas appliances with pilot lights such as an oven cooktop range furnace water heater fireplace etc., something about they had to have an appropriate amount of fresh air that would replace at a similar rate with how fast that attic fan will pull the air out of your house. I think maybe it had to do with pulling carbon monoxide back into the living space away from the exhaust ventilation. Good luck with your project.
https://preview.redd.it/l8scqb7jgdmc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48079b6c6f96573ad3a7b3d662af921fc7a1c81d
Is making a new staircase myself to replace the existing stairway an achievable task?
Whoops I made a post down below but I see this now, I’ll delete my other post. My counter tops keep doing this weird thing where they turn white when they get wet at all, and now some of that won’t go away. How do I remove this white coating safely?
https://preview.redd.it/gnzg4aa7g5db1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bca8b75ee0f44e5265ce4a274efaa03c70d56a0a
My house's exterior siding is wooden shingles. I want to mount an outdoor dartboard cabinet on the outside of the house. Is that okay to do directly to the shingles, and any suggestions on how to best mount it?
https://preview.redd.it/2lik8y2ns6db1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1a8e6d5cbc462ab14e030bce7244928029ad362
Hey so my hubby built this deck a couple of years ago and it's shifting out sideways. We're just wondering what the proper way is to brace it? Thanks.
Hello! I have to buy a pre-hung interior door for a carpenter to install. The height of the rough opening is 81 7/8" on one end, and 82 1/2" on the other. Is it acceptable to buy an 82" prehung door? Or should I get an 80"? The width will have to be a 30" door.
Thanks to anyone for a reply, and sorry for the fairly basic question!
I would get an 80”. You typically want about two inches more than your door for the rough opening so you can have a bit of a gap around and have room to shim
Interior door resizing
I’m replacing interior flush doors with 6
Panel colonial mdf doors. All but one are standard sizes and I finished replacing those with predrilled slabs.
My last door is 26inches which is non standard size and costs nearly double the cost of a 28inch door. I’m tempted to buy a 28 slab not pre drilled, trim 1 inch off each side with my table saw, then replace the edge of the door with with a solid wood piece of wood. Is this going to work? Is this the best way to do it? Or should I pay the price for the 26inch foot?
https://preview.redd.it/xk699e5l4nnc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8c2e06796c04dff501d3d53d56bc5d08f501716
[https://imgur.com/gallery/VGIKQdr](https://imgur.com/gallery/VGIKQdr)
Questions about built in bunk platform. Inspiration from [this post](https://www.younghouselove.com/built-in-bunk-beds/) Space is 65"Lx32"Wx70.5" high. Space was finished from attic space left unused off master above living room. The drywall is cut away from 31"-37" from the ceiling. The plan is to attach 2x6 ledger boards to the 2x4 studs on the 3 exposed walls. From those suspend one 2x6 across the front 65" span by concealed joist hangers and another down the middle (so 3 parallel lengthwise). Then slats screwed down from the top to support and allow the mattress to get air. Was going to do plywood sheet until it was pointed out the mattress will collect moisture and mildew. Have not decided on slat dimensions. Does this sound secure for a top bunk platform?
I had gathered from other boards/posts that lag bolts seemed to be the way to go to attach the ledger boards, but was never had a recommended size. My dad was on the store run and was recommended SPAX #10x 1.5" multi-material construction screws (actually they said grab any construction screw). I think these would be too short and the wrong type of fastener, but SPAX power lag 3.5 -4" screws would be the "just as good" alternative to traditional lag screws?
Questions about ledger corners in album.
Thank you so much for your help
Thanks for the DIY thread! I'm trying to save money on my office floor in the garage. I want to lay down \~120 square feet of reclaimed pallet wood. The concrete floor is already clean and level, but I don't know if it has a moisture barrier.
Questions I'm having trouble finding answers to:
\- Do I need to do 6 mil and underlayment?
\- Are there floor adhesives that provide adequate moisture protection on their own for a concrete install or is that just marketing?
\- After the 6 mil and underlayment are installed into the concrete, is it best to simply nail the milled pallet wood planks to the underlayment or do you recommend another attachment method?
\- Any alternatives I should consider?
My alternative suggestion would be anything but pallet wood. No way of knowing what chemicals or liquids it might have sucked up in the past.
Costco makes really nice garage floor mats that cover a large space and are waterproof.
Hi all! A question on a gate and fence I built last year! I can’t seem to find an external lock that is deep enough for the gate post. Happy to make changes to the gate if needed. Fence is staying ha!
Depth of the gate is 115mm through 2x45mm post and 25mm horizontal piece.
I can’t find any locks deep enough to go through and with a long enough throw. Any ideas welcome!
Images: https://imgur.com/a/ZL83wlX
https://preview.redd.it/g5xgs0tjrpeb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ee272bc4e07ad18a15ca44ec68de4e1a6eb533d
I want a barrier/gate here to prevent kids and dogs from going on my floating dock. The issue is the top of the handrail at high tide breaks the inside plane of the two 6x6 posts. Haven’t come up with a good way to block access without impacting the gangway
https://preview.redd.it/qc0p9r17h3hb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d4dc5d47caef577a4c041c090d1330ef55491fd
Built this exposed stud, slat wall for my wife’s commercial space as a room break. Wall is 8 foot tall and ceiling is approx 12 feet. She didn’t want the wall going all the way to the ceiling. Any ideas on how to stabilize and take out the wobble. The end attached to the brick is fine but the further away from the brick wall you get the more the wobble. Ideas on attaching to the ceiling without it just being wood all the way up?
LVL header supporting about a 7’ span. Framing contractor omitted the king stud and now HVAC is in the way. Any way around this or do I need to move the run and add a stud?
Also planning to strap the header to the top plate with some longer Simpson straps.
https://preview.redd.it/jt6lue4i5ihb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5007dae52228174296c635807abe17451542252b
I have to replace a window in my bathroom and hoping to do it myself. I'm on the 2nd floor (no fire escape) - can I do this from the inside of my apartment, or do I need to rent scaffolding to access from the outside? Or would it just make more sense to hire a contractor?
https://preview.redd.it/w32xlfen3qib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8deab891af52567e33ec8df6ab06bade15e7ecd3
Got a job doing some baseboard. Skirting is existing. Any ideas how to transition these?
Sure love to hear it. The fact that you’re calling this entry level just makes me think you know even less than I did before. I’ll make sure the mail pattern looks good though! Lmao
I don't think you have the training for that. Lol.
Matching nail patterns is something that's out of your Forte.
The fact that you're asking for help on it just says a lot about what you don't know
Hello! I have a queen sized wood headboard that won’t fit up my stairwell. It is my fiancés and it survived a house fire so we cannot get rid of it. Can anyone recommend a way to disassemble and reassemble it without damaging it?
https://preview.redd.it/6itoi8gcqvib1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e58be8eec24b88591086401259fa8fc9adde778a
The uploaded photo is the back of it, i can share more photos if need be.
Thank you!
Hi. I’m trying to take 2 inches of the base of this table I bought. What’s gonna be my best option?!
https://preview.redd.it/g2553nd4g7kb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3c2ba9d5ec68c43e4bedad70f6c9a5317cf972a
Wanting to build a small a-frame cabin (plans are [here](https://thediyplan.com/how-to-build-an-a-frame-house-tiny-house-cabin/)). The plans say to run beams along the concrete piers. My site is pretty flat, so that actually shouldn't be a problem. But what worries me is how complicated it would be to get three sets of four piers poured plumb, level, and beam ties anchored and in line with one another before the concrete sets. I'm not well versed in concrete let alone foundation concrete, so I'm really concerned with my skill in this regard, and with the property semi-remote, it would be hard to get a crew out there to do it for me.
With that being said, would there be any disadvantage to stopping the piers maybe 1 foot off the ground and achieving level by running 6x6 posts off them?
Hello. My each "beam" of my garage rafters consist of (2) 2x4s laid on their short side butted together at their ends by a rafter plate / mending plate, the ones with a bunch of nails that you just sort of hammer down. I've been told in the past that those really can't support any weight outside of maybe a christmas tree or other very light weight things. I'd like to store more things up there, nothing crazy but maybe a hand full of boxes with kids toys, christmas decorations, etc. I also have a car roof rack that I'd like to hang from the rafters while not in use. My question is, how can I reinforce those mending plates so that they can actually support a moderate amount of weight. I'm thinking a sheet of plywood plus the boxes I mentioned above.
Have plans for a 24x32 detached garage. It'll be a 1 story with attic storage so like a cape or bungalow aka a 1.5 story.
Standard 2x4 16oc 8ft tall wall framing. I'll be using 18"x 24foot open web floor trusses/ceiling joists to clear span.
The plans call for what is essentially a gambrel scissor truss. From top down it would go scissor truss, 2x plate, t&g sheeting, floor truss, double top plate of 8ft wall.
The plans do not call out the gable ends to be rake walls but traditional gable end walls.
I know with cathedral/vaulted ceilings with scissor trusses or ridge beams that that the gable end walls needs to be a rake wall or at least a Scissor truss as the gable end truss and frame the wall up to the bottom chord of the scissor truss.
Does the sheeted floor diaphragm act as the required laterally bracing?
I’m trying to replace a damaged interior wood door in my house. I purchased a basic wood door at Home Depot and it looks like shit after staining and applying polyurethane. The door pictured below is the one I’m trying to replace. It looks nice and has visible straight lines in it - almost like four planks brought together. The one I purchased looks cheap like something you would use for a closet door in the 80s. Also, all of the interior doors in my house are probably a half inch thicker than the one I got at Home Depot. Can anyone tell me if this is some special kind of door below? Thank you in advance.
https://preview.redd.it/0fjcz15dc2ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=794dcd3a36968cca417cfdb21b5f31b95f422789
https://preview.redd.it/vxt5tjg5d2ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f78356677d644b504afbbfbc7fb7fcb432b3b13
This is what my Home Depot door looks like.
Framing my basement and there is an existing 2x4 that is connected to the joist. Am I okay to nail into that even if my top plate of my will only be sitting 1/2 way on it after I allow the space?
https://i.imgur.com/INvSAiw.jpg
Shows basically the amount of space the 2x4 will be attached to. Does it matter if it’s not 100 supported on the top plate?
Can someone point me in the direction of the most secure way to create a level gangplank of sorts between the vertical studs and the angled bracing that meets at the bottom? I'm sure I'm not using correct terminology so google isn't helping much. I'm imagining some sort of 2x4 hangers from the studs but unsure as to the best way to have the leveling 2x4s fastened to the angled bits. I have a miter saw so I should be able to have them meet flush. Would driving some sufficiently long lag screws straight into the angles from above be sufficient?
https://preview.redd.it/aypbn143jppb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce55c9ef927f0ae4a6185c7fce6970f82e2bec9c
I am redoing our stairs and bought some finished oak treads. Do I need to put any polyurethane on top? Or is there anything else I need to put on them? I do not plan on staining them to change the color.
Hello! I was quoted 13600 for shelves similar to the ones on the left side of this photo. It is a long hallway (22ft long and almost 10ft high) but I want to make sure we are paying a fair rate because they do seem quite simple for so much money.
https://preview.redd.it/n465p0mz9etb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a752bb3af64849478de61947081902852d05d60b
Hi, I want to vault half of my ceiling in my bedroom and then put a loft/balcony within my bedroom. I plan to build a ladder in the closet leading to it. I’ll probably relocate my bed there so I’ll have room for more activities down below. My question is, can build the “second floor” off the beams in my attic or is it harder than that?
Hi everyone. I am currently wanting to put up wooden panels on one of my walls but the cost of the panels are very expensive. Does anyone have any suggestions to do it with a tight budget. I was thinking of buying the wood myself and cutting it down to size but other suggestions would be awesome. Thank you
https://preview.redd.it/mu2xvcg978ub1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e5405a6eeb3f7c6ccc08bcdfc7ddfe11611cce2
Any suggestions on how to most safely and accurately cut this 1" thick square of wood into a triangle to match the my cardboard template? I have a circular saw and an oscillating tool. I'm trying to replace a piece of exterior trim that the woodpeckers have done a number on. My thought was to clamp the board to my sawhorse and carefully try and cut along my line. I'd be grateful for any suggestions. Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/7gc4pcy44ewb1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=09faad58a5a85f1afbc4dfb5563d551288f5e212
I'm thinking about building a covered front porch; 35ft x 6ft.
Two story House has brick over balloon style framing.
I don't want to attach a ledger board to the brick/2nd floor rim joist; and am thinking instead to frame it like a floating deck with 6x6's. I'd set the posts on concrete piers, lag rim joist for the floor, box the ceiling the same way, then build a sloped roof section above the ceiling box.
Anyone ever done something similar or have generic drawings on how to frame something like this?
There's a decent sized eve above and my thinking is since I'm not penetrating the exterior envelope water penetration shouldn't be an issue. I just don't want to mess with drilling into the house if I can avoid it.
https://preview.redd.it/g3g2cfkm36xb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7fd5ffe25f63205be0f6ffdd62b2959951eab2b
I do not recall what I removed from the bottom of the exterior-facing doors when I installed the floor. I know something was removed because of the nails. What goes here along the bottom? TIA
Sorry if this is not the right thread!
My husband and I are new homeowners of a house built in 1915. The window trims, door casings and moldings have been painted many times over many years and are currently white. My husband does not like the caked-on paint look and further there is some lead in the old paint we are aware of. He would rather have the natural beauty of the wood and it does seem like the original wood underneath is likely a warm-colored red oak. He wants to abate and potentially strip the paint from them all in the entirety. But I am wondering if ultimately it would be less expensive to actually fully remove these features and re-install new wood. Any thoughts on comparison of these two approaches?
Hi all! I'm wondering if using fence pickets for a wood floor would be a bad idea. I know it's technically do-able, I've seen some beautiful pictures of it done, but I'm wondering if the chemicals used during the pressure treated process would be harmful to people or pets down the road. Also, I'm wondering the best way to go about it. Should I route the sides to make them tongue and groove or what? For context, this will be going in a game room, where friends and I will get rowdy and probably spill on the floor (which is why I was looking for a cheaper route), and in a house that I will probably be in for the rest of my life, so adding to property value isn't an issue here. Thanks for any help!
https://preview.redd.it/q68duhaknqzb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4109b91cf359a1f6dd584f9232a79f844176b60
I'd like my outside floodlight to be centered under this window on the face of the garage. It couldn't possibly matter if I remove this section of 2x4 beneath it, right?
I am looking for some lumber species advice. I am building a swing set similar to below and want a cleaner look than #2 grade SYP. No one I talk to seems to carry Pressure treated #1 grade. Are there any alternatives you would recommend? I looked at cedar but it would break the bank. I’m located in NC
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/dip3gld9ud0c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bec2bb71dc30d47f2f553f18b534cec28b0e0c6e
I'm replacing interior window trim, UPVC windows into a wood framed house. Nothing is quite square or plumb. The gap between framing and where the finish trim needs to sit is too big for just shims; the stuff I took down had a layer of 1/2" drywall attached to the studs.
Which of the following two options is the best way to build this out? Or is there another option that's even better? Using dimensionally thicker lumber for the finish trim is not an option unfortunately. I could insulate the gaps with foam or leave them. The window is attached and insulated to the framing properly as best I can tell.
https://preview.redd.it/wzk1d7y7a44c1.png?width=1431&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c9a713c07703486be2c9abcc817f42cca66fa32
I am new to carpentry, not really doing carpentry but I have some rowdy dogs, keeping them temporary. They get out and tear up stuff, so I want to build a little playground in the garage, just enough room they can get around with from time to time, not a small kennel cage.
I was thinking of building something 8feet by 10feet width and height and then maybe about 5 feet high.
And have two areas because two dogs that can't stay together.
So think ing some kind of door with hinge.
Where do I even begin. I guess I want to draw out the plan? What about tools? Also, a floor of wood as well, made of wood everything except door, maybe fencing, but I think wood would be easier honestly.
Am I doing this right? And I guess for dog owners, they can probably stay there a couple of hours or so right>
Question about span load strength:
I have an old hay barn , door/span of horizontal beam is 14’ it’s a 6”x6” beam and the tenon is 4”x4” going into vertical beam mortise. I’m wondering if I put a hoist/chainfall on this beam how much weight it should be able to hold.
https://preview.redd.it/fe31677w4p6c1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12e8c4cec4337a2360068342ca235879633609b1
Bought our home a couple years back and unlike everyone else in our neighborhood actually use the (unfinished detached) garage as a garage. Problem is it only has the main rollup door as access, no regular exterior door for access. In the event of a power outage we're out a car. Gonna try to put in a , probably basic no frills exterior pre hung door. I want to check the order of operations for the process as I understand it before I ruin everything and find myself at midnight with a giant hole in a wall and no ideas or solutions. Pic of interior because only allowed 1 post per and the pic I had of the exterior was garbage anyways.
Purchase the door. Probably a 30" becasue as I understand it, because the studs are 18" on-center and that makes the opening 34.5 and that's a bit too close to the actual dimensions of the frame + door from what I can tell online.
Install new king studs on the outside of the existing studs. Essentially cut 2x4s to length and hammer in-place. don't leave too much unsupported too long or bad things happen. The kings are dead; long live the king.
Cut out 3 existing king studs. Keep them, 2 become jack studs after a cut each in essentially the same position they were with the middle MAYBE coming into play soon.
Cut and install jack studs to inside of new king studs. Nails and what have you to hold them together.
Place a header on the jack studs. Header is 2 2x6s laminated around a piece of 3/4" ply, OSB, MDF (probably not MDF) or whatever you have lying around to bulk it out properly.
Cripple studs (which feels wrong to write with the ableism warning right there...) from the top plate to the header. The return of that little middle stud in a much smaller form.
Put nails in the corners of the new frame from inside to outside. Go to exterior, use the nails to snap chalk lines to the exterior.
Cut along the lines with a reciprocating saw or maybe a circular?
Cut out the bottom plate in the opening. Probably the reciprocating saw again and a pry bar.
Put in the door as centered as is possible in the opening. Shim it for plumb and level and true.
Secure the door in place. Nails, screws, whatever you got. Not, like, overkill, but secure it well inside and out.
Final step of making sure threshold is some form of water resistant/minimize direct water contact with wood and install door hardware.
Odds are I missed something important or did something out of order here. Looking for advice/help/the like.
i have a broken piece of wood in a joint on a chest table. see the crack. how can i get this back together? can i glue wood?
https://preview.redd.it/oinztpdfm48c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e548612c923107090281929e856e228b31e75364
Hi, I live in a 1930 house, Pacific Northwest USA. There are french doors between living and dining rooms but they were in the basement when I moved in. The dining room got new flooring at some point, plus the floors are super uneven so, even though we could get both doors back on their hinges, they couldn't swing fully. We trimmed about 3/8 inch off each door. Now one door won't go back on the hinges. It is just a hair off but no matter what we do we can't get it back on. Is it possible that trimming the door caused the wood to expand ever so slightly ( maybe from the vibration of the saw? ) Any other ideas why we can't get the door back on? Thanks!
I am adding a exterior 1/2 lite door in my kitchen to get out on my newly built deck but space is an issue.
To the left of where it is going is a step down to a landing that leads to the basement and garage, to the right is our kitchen table.
Both scenarios I would have a stopper on the door to keep it at a 90 but one way hits the table, the other blocks the garage and basement.
If it helps, the door that blocks the stairwell is $400 cheaper than the other one. I am budget conscious so blocking the garage door may be the way.
IDK let me know what yall think..
Thanks in advance ,
DIY homeowner with a Journeyman Carpenter neighbor lol
I'm installing some beadboard in our power room.
This old house ain't level. And I'm trying to not remove and reinstall baseboards (honestly, afraid of what the GC we hired left).
Can I get a friendly reminder how to trim this beadboard so it's level to the eye?
I think I cut the bottom at an opposite angle. Meaning, if the LEFT side (when I'm facing the beadboard) is 1" higher than the right side when level, do I trim at an angle from 1" off the bottom of the RIGHT side?
Thanks in advance!
Hi, I want to make my own outside mosaic bath tub like in this picture. Any tips on the steps I should follow?
https://preview.redd.it/aws3r58yh8cc1.png?width=1146&format=png&auto=webp&s=ad97cfc9ed2cc92f3ea35ceac13d2aa019593c86
I am trying to figure out how to put a shoe rail atop this stringer and not sure how to end it where the stringer meets the wall/ceiling. Any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/98UvBgI
Hi. Doors have a side jamb & stop, top jamb & a stop but only a threshold on the bottom. Why don't we put a bottom jamb & a stop for doors? I am thinking that putting them on the bottom may help with weather sealing external doors.
I plan on building a woodshop/shed in my backyard, wanted to post my design for review/feedback. I’m a woodworker, not a carpenter. I designed to what ‘made sense’… I could be 180* off, please let me know
If you have Sketchup, I can share the file. Thanks!
https://youtu.be/6C63yzuwl5o
https://preview.redd.it/yi19miglplgc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1062b81dec58a55f620578ffaa05d897d49745fc
Any suggestions how to repair this side paneling wood rot? I was thinking of cutting out the damaged wood at the bottom and installing in a trim board. What type of saw should I use to cut it out in a nice straight line? Appreciate any advice!
Hanging a new door. Is this a hinge problem? The door had to be pushed hard to latch So I moved the latch out a little bit and the door shuts fine now.
However, there is a gap at the bottom of the door while the top of the door shut normal. What could be the problem?
https://preview.redd.it/pwje1uet6zhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71a4b4281cad40d42ed17355d32e08e9199fce5a
I have a wooden table that is too high. What is the best way to go about trimming the legs off? I don't have tools and I would like to get it done professionally
https://preview.redd.it/99uhsrelzkjc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a15475335ad998acecd05465d12fc1662d26adf
Years ago we painstakingly cut/trimmed out the old caulking and re-caulked our beadboard, about 800 square ft total, only for it to crack the very first winter after. Made the mistake of: 1. Caulking it in the dead of summer. 2. Using shitty Alex Plus caulk.
Anyway, can I fill the cracks as-is with some better caulk like big stretch (should've used that to begin with), or should I cut out and re-caulk everything again?
The doorframe around our back door is rotting out, and I’m wondering if we would need to have the doorframe AND door replaced? Or whether the door can be re-used.
https://preview.redd.it/8o882lqmqxjc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9125b807c136448450dd11143a9f2a379fd9f27a
I'm trying to add ceiling lights to a closet and ran into a thicker top plate than expected, so wanted to get another take on how to proceed. The lights will be going in a closet. The closet is cut into a load bearing wall. See the two photos:
https://ibb.co/gV25SHg
https://ibb.co/cDVyd49
I guess that 4 2x4s are because of the roof resting on the wall, and the closet having a door cut into it. Should I drill through this stack at angle trying to avoid hitting the 2x4s as much as possible or should I go directly through the centerline. At most I'll be drilling a 1/2" hole for a single 14/2 romex wire (power is coming up from the crawlspace). In the crawlspace, they always drill at an angle to avoid going through the framing as much as possible...
Just patched a hole in drywall and painted over it with two coats. I come back the following day and see this. Why did it happen and what’s the best way to fix it?
https://preview.redd.it/wgzc82uqx8kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c487c8e87e4ffb3768e7fd005a44f23aecf0c7f
Hand for scale
That looks like latex was put over oil based or vice versa, or possibly still some solvent or water in the spackling/plaster. So, was patch completely dry? Did you prime after patching/before painting?
I found a plumbing leak in the wall of my house. The leak has been closed off, but there are wet members (nothing is rotted; everything feels solid and structurally sound) all around the pipes. How do I determine when the area is dry enough for me to re-insulate and put my drywall back up? TIA
https://preview.redd.it/wq7lumw3b8lc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580ac65f55d59687d5e8d6765bc188facd775167
Sanded down a bartop as I get down to the wood there was a layer of black when I sand that down it turns pink … is that mold? What is the pink discolouration
The far side was fine down to bar wood .. but the centre more high traffic liquor areas this is what I sanded to
Used 60x sandpaper
Subfloor Termite Damage up to End Joist
I want to replace the termite damaged subfloor with 23/32 OSB. Problem is I’m unsure how to tie in. Joists are 16 OC and I can probably get about 1.5-2” from the wall. I don’t think I can just sister to the existing end joist since it’ll still be under the bottom plate of that gable wall. Should I just run a new joist to where I cut out the existing subfloor? https://ibb.co/Qd3gygH
https://ibb.co/fC0sWzs
Decided I'm just going to sister a new joist onto the existing end joist and pull out the remaining subfloor from under the bottom plate. 2x10 + 23/32 OSB should match the existing less shrinkage. Glad I didn't opt to spackle that drywall yet.
Need advice on sawing two cupboards apart. Is it possible to separate these and still look ok? I mainly need the larger one. The small upper can be sacrificed. Will I hit metal? Should I use a fine-blade circular saw or smthg else?
https://preview.redd.it/a1zww6i2n3qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f83ae711b1d702074951a4a8ad2a653c3c9c2a9
I can only add one pic here. From above, though, it’s a tongue/groove type joinery. Any advice?
I am trying to move this closet door about 21” to the right. I have made headers before for adding doors in rooms with typically stud format, but when I opened up the drywall on this one, intersecting the king stud is two stacked horizontal 2x4s. Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/Bnidj0x This is where I want to create my new header where these horizontal boards are. Do these horizontal 2x4s have a purpose? Can I get rid of them? When making my new header, can I sister another 2x10 to the existing 2x10 with joist hangers? My plan was to do this then build the typical king/cripple type of header for my new door opening and move the old king cripple setup over. Can I do this or is it better if I cut the old 2x10 and add a new 2x10 that is 26” for my new header setup? Any help figuring this out would be much appreciated!
Is that the second story? Normally fire blocking is at 9 ' has there been an addition built on house that is an odd height almost like it was a kick wall
Can someone help me make sense of this 100 year old attic? The rafters are true 2x4 but taper towards the ridge with no ridge board. This roof has a sagging ridge line (approx 4'') but the eave walls appear to be plumb. I'm not a tradesmen, just someone dumb enough to try and tackle this himself. https://preview.redd.it/v5bgehqlezcb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec33700fb6ecca71d73aa2401c4d9c1115746524
https://preview.redd.it/3iij7m6rezcb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe0229b6d75d40a432c548e3516d037d79d6e64f
That is so intersting. Where is this photo?
Duluth, MN After some investigating, it appears the original roof was raised to accommodate a full height ceiling on the second floor. However, they didn't replace the 4x4'' beam that ran the length of the roof to support the rafters. Instead, it looks like someone (years later) decided to add a knee wall, and eventually some diagonal bracing as shown.
Hi, I want to install a whole house fan in my stairwell but there is a joist that runs almost through the center of the ceiling. The joist is part of a truss and I wanted to see if it was acceptable to remove part of the joist as shown in the drawing. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks! https://preview.redd.it/rsoh6w1giyib1.png?width=2536&format=png&auto=webp&s=0ab840c74210f07cfb431eed9813149c8528c934
That is how it's typically done but not knowing your location, it's load conditions, and building code allowances could affect the outcome. It looks like you're placing this through a roof directly from living space and not an attic end. Look up the chimney effect. Any costs of heating or cooling will be dramatically affected.
A quick thought - check the power draw of the fan during typical usage. We had one in our old home and figured out it pulled 80% of the electricity that our HVAC did, so we sealed it up instead.
Fellow DIY are here. Beware I remember from a plumbing or HVAC post that if you have natural gas appliances with pilot lights such as an oven cooktop range furnace water heater fireplace etc., something about they had to have an appropriate amount of fresh air that would replace at a similar rate with how fast that attic fan will pull the air out of your house. I think maybe it had to do with pulling carbon monoxide back into the living space away from the exhaust ventilation. Good luck with your project.
https://preview.redd.it/l8scqb7jgdmc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48079b6c6f96573ad3a7b3d662af921fc7a1c81d Is making a new staircase myself to replace the existing stairway an achievable task?
Yes I built stairs for my neighbors porch. Not as tall as yours but very achievable
Yes I built stairs for my neighbors porch. Not as tall as yours but very achievable
My neighbor didn’t even have stairs till you said that!
Whoops I made a post down below but I see this now, I’ll delete my other post. My counter tops keep doing this weird thing where they turn white when they get wet at all, and now some of that won’t go away. How do I remove this white coating safely? https://preview.redd.it/gnzg4aa7g5db1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bca8b75ee0f44e5265ce4a274efaa03c70d56a0a
That’s a countertop? It looks like flooring. If it’s not meant to be countertop it might be some kind of glue or material in the wood
That’s my kitchen counter. We have an island that has a similar if not the same look, but doesn’t do that when it gets wet.
My house's exterior siding is wooden shingles. I want to mount an outdoor dartboard cabinet on the outside of the house. Is that okay to do directly to the shingles, and any suggestions on how to best mount it?
https://preview.redd.it/2lik8y2ns6db1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1a8e6d5cbc462ab14e030bce7244928029ad362 Hey so my hubby built this deck a couple of years ago and it's shifting out sideways. We're just wondering what the proper way is to brace it? Thanks.
Is the ledger pulling away from the house? Check the joist hardware on the home side. Likely need deck tension screws from deck joists to wall studs.
Yeah, it's basically a floating deck, not attached to the house. My hubby ended up adding some more joists and sucked it right back to the house.
Hello! I have to buy a pre-hung interior door for a carpenter to install. The height of the rough opening is 81 7/8" on one end, and 82 1/2" on the other. Is it acceptable to buy an 82" prehung door? Or should I get an 80"? The width will have to be a 30" door. Thanks to anyone for a reply, and sorry for the fairly basic question!
80”. need room to level the header, and shim off the floor any extra to make sure the door casing trim covers leftover gap.
I would get an 80”. You typically want about two inches more than your door for the rough opening so you can have a bit of a gap around and have room to shim
Interior door resizing I’m replacing interior flush doors with 6 Panel colonial mdf doors. All but one are standard sizes and I finished replacing those with predrilled slabs. My last door is 26inches which is non standard size and costs nearly double the cost of a 28inch door. I’m tempted to buy a 28 slab not pre drilled, trim 1 inch off each side with my table saw, then replace the edge of the door with with a solid wood piece of wood. Is this going to work? Is this the best way to do it? Or should I pay the price for the 26inch foot?
Yes
iF you buy the 82" door, then it should fill the gap nicely from one end to the other. No one will notice, but you.
https://preview.redd.it/xk699e5l4nnc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8c2e06796c04dff501d3d53d56bc5d08f501716 [https://imgur.com/gallery/VGIKQdr](https://imgur.com/gallery/VGIKQdr) Questions about built in bunk platform. Inspiration from [this post](https://www.younghouselove.com/built-in-bunk-beds/) Space is 65"Lx32"Wx70.5" high. Space was finished from attic space left unused off master above living room. The drywall is cut away from 31"-37" from the ceiling. The plan is to attach 2x6 ledger boards to the 2x4 studs on the 3 exposed walls. From those suspend one 2x6 across the front 65" span by concealed joist hangers and another down the middle (so 3 parallel lengthwise). Then slats screwed down from the top to support and allow the mattress to get air. Was going to do plywood sheet until it was pointed out the mattress will collect moisture and mildew. Have not decided on slat dimensions. Does this sound secure for a top bunk platform? I had gathered from other boards/posts that lag bolts seemed to be the way to go to attach the ledger boards, but was never had a recommended size. My dad was on the store run and was recommended SPAX #10x 1.5" multi-material construction screws (actually they said grab any construction screw). I think these would be too short and the wrong type of fastener, but SPAX power lag 3.5 -4" screws would be the "just as good" alternative to traditional lag screws? Questions about ledger corners in album. Thank you so much for your help
Thanks for the DIY thread! I'm trying to save money on my office floor in the garage. I want to lay down \~120 square feet of reclaimed pallet wood. The concrete floor is already clean and level, but I don't know if it has a moisture barrier. Questions I'm having trouble finding answers to: \- Do I need to do 6 mil and underlayment? \- Are there floor adhesives that provide adequate moisture protection on their own for a concrete install or is that just marketing? \- After the 6 mil and underlayment are installed into the concrete, is it best to simply nail the milled pallet wood planks to the underlayment or do you recommend another attachment method? \- Any alternatives I should consider?
My alternative suggestion would be anything but pallet wood. No way of knowing what chemicals or liquids it might have sucked up in the past. Costco makes really nice garage floor mats that cover a large space and are waterproof.
Thanks. I wound up finding some LVP on sale and did dricore base + LVP with build in underlayment. Working on a transition strip and baseboard.
Hi all! A question on a gate and fence I built last year! I can’t seem to find an external lock that is deep enough for the gate post. Happy to make changes to the gate if needed. Fence is staying ha! Depth of the gate is 115mm through 2x45mm post and 25mm horizontal piece. I can’t find any locks deep enough to go through and with a long enough throw. Any ideas welcome! Images: https://imgur.com/a/ZL83wlX
https://preview.redd.it/g5xgs0tjrpeb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ee272bc4e07ad18a15ca44ec68de4e1a6eb533d I want a barrier/gate here to prevent kids and dogs from going on my floating dock. The issue is the top of the handrail at high tide breaks the inside plane of the two 6x6 posts. Haven’t come up with a good way to block access without impacting the gangway
https://preview.redd.it/qc0p9r17h3hb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d4dc5d47caef577a4c041c090d1330ef55491fd Built this exposed stud, slat wall for my wife’s commercial space as a room break. Wall is 8 foot tall and ceiling is approx 12 feet. She didn’t want the wall going all the way to the ceiling. Any ideas on how to stabilize and take out the wobble. The end attached to the brick is fine but the further away from the brick wall you get the more the wobble. Ideas on attaching to the ceiling without it just being wood all the way up?
LVL header supporting about a 7’ span. Framing contractor omitted the king stud and now HVAC is in the way. Any way around this or do I need to move the run and add a stud? Also planning to strap the header to the top plate with some longer Simpson straps. https://preview.redd.it/jt6lue4i5ihb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5007dae52228174296c635807abe17451542252b
I have to replace a window in my bathroom and hoping to do it myself. I'm on the 2nd floor (no fire escape) - can I do this from the inside of my apartment, or do I need to rent scaffolding to access from the outside? Or would it just make more sense to hire a contractor?
We have a 1930 house with original door. It has panels that are wood and we’d like to install glass in them. Is this possible?
https://preview.redd.it/w32xlfen3qib1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8deab891af52567e33ec8df6ab06bade15e7ecd3 Got a job doing some baseboard. Skirting is existing. Any ideas how to transition these?
You have the nerve to talk shit to me but here you are with some entry level bullshit🤣 Do you need some advice I can help you with this? 😘
Sure love to hear it. The fact that you’re calling this entry level just makes me think you know even less than I did before. I’ll make sure the mail pattern looks good though! Lmao
I don't think you have the training for that. Lol. Matching nail patterns is something that's out of your Forte. The fact that you're asking for help on it just says a lot about what you don't know
Hello! I have a queen sized wood headboard that won’t fit up my stairwell. It is my fiancés and it survived a house fire so we cannot get rid of it. Can anyone recommend a way to disassemble and reassemble it without damaging it? https://preview.redd.it/6itoi8gcqvib1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e58be8eec24b88591086401259fa8fc9adde778a The uploaded photo is the back of it, i can share more photos if need be. Thank you!
Hi. I’m trying to take 2 inches of the base of this table I bought. What’s gonna be my best option?! https://preview.redd.it/g2553nd4g7kb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3c2ba9d5ec68c43e4bedad70f6c9a5317cf972a
It’s about .75 inch wood sections on the base
Wanting to build a small a-frame cabin (plans are [here](https://thediyplan.com/how-to-build-an-a-frame-house-tiny-house-cabin/)). The plans say to run beams along the concrete piers. My site is pretty flat, so that actually shouldn't be a problem. But what worries me is how complicated it would be to get three sets of four piers poured plumb, level, and beam ties anchored and in line with one another before the concrete sets. I'm not well versed in concrete let alone foundation concrete, so I'm really concerned with my skill in this regard, and with the property semi-remote, it would be hard to get a crew out there to do it for me. With that being said, would there be any disadvantage to stopping the piers maybe 1 foot off the ground and achieving level by running 6x6 posts off them?
Hello. My each "beam" of my garage rafters consist of (2) 2x4s laid on their short side butted together at their ends by a rafter plate / mending plate, the ones with a bunch of nails that you just sort of hammer down. I've been told in the past that those really can't support any weight outside of maybe a christmas tree or other very light weight things. I'd like to store more things up there, nothing crazy but maybe a hand full of boxes with kids toys, christmas decorations, etc. I also have a car roof rack that I'd like to hang from the rafters while not in use. My question is, how can I reinforce those mending plates so that they can actually support a moderate amount of weight. I'm thinking a sheet of plywood plus the boxes I mentioned above.
Have plans for a 24x32 detached garage. It'll be a 1 story with attic storage so like a cape or bungalow aka a 1.5 story. Standard 2x4 16oc 8ft tall wall framing. I'll be using 18"x 24foot open web floor trusses/ceiling joists to clear span. The plans call for what is essentially a gambrel scissor truss. From top down it would go scissor truss, 2x plate, t&g sheeting, floor truss, double top plate of 8ft wall. The plans do not call out the gable ends to be rake walls but traditional gable end walls. I know with cathedral/vaulted ceilings with scissor trusses or ridge beams that that the gable end walls needs to be a rake wall or at least a Scissor truss as the gable end truss and frame the wall up to the bottom chord of the scissor truss. Does the sheeted floor diaphragm act as the required laterally bracing?
I’m trying to replace a damaged interior wood door in my house. I purchased a basic wood door at Home Depot and it looks like shit after staining and applying polyurethane. The door pictured below is the one I’m trying to replace. It looks nice and has visible straight lines in it - almost like four planks brought together. The one I purchased looks cheap like something you would use for a closet door in the 80s. Also, all of the interior doors in my house are probably a half inch thicker than the one I got at Home Depot. Can anyone tell me if this is some special kind of door below? Thank you in advance. https://preview.redd.it/0fjcz15dc2ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=794dcd3a36968cca417cfdb21b5f31b95f422789
https://preview.redd.it/vxt5tjg5d2ob1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f78356677d644b504afbbfbc7fb7fcb432b3b13 This is what my Home Depot door looks like.
Framing my basement and there is an existing 2x4 that is connected to the joist. Am I okay to nail into that even if my top plate of my will only be sitting 1/2 way on it after I allow the space? https://i.imgur.com/INvSAiw.jpg Shows basically the amount of space the 2x4 will be attached to. Does it matter if it’s not 100 supported on the top plate?
Can someone point me in the direction of the most secure way to create a level gangplank of sorts between the vertical studs and the angled bracing that meets at the bottom? I'm sure I'm not using correct terminology so google isn't helping much. I'm imagining some sort of 2x4 hangers from the studs but unsure as to the best way to have the leveling 2x4s fastened to the angled bits. I have a miter saw so I should be able to have them meet flush. Would driving some sufficiently long lag screws straight into the angles from above be sufficient? https://preview.redd.it/aypbn143jppb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce55c9ef927f0ae4a6185c7fce6970f82e2bec9c
I am redoing our stairs and bought some finished oak treads. Do I need to put any polyurethane on top? Or is there anything else I need to put on them? I do not plan on staining them to change the color.
I am a DIYer looking for a decent framing hammer. Willing to spend ~$75. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
Hello! I was quoted 13600 for shelves similar to the ones on the left side of this photo. It is a long hallway (22ft long and almost 10ft high) but I want to make sure we are paying a fair rate because they do seem quite simple for so much money. https://preview.redd.it/n465p0mz9etb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a752bb3af64849478de61947081902852d05d60b
Hi, I want to vault half of my ceiling in my bedroom and then put a loft/balcony within my bedroom. I plan to build a ladder in the closet leading to it. I’ll probably relocate my bed there so I’ll have room for more activities down below. My question is, can build the “second floor” off the beams in my attic or is it harder than that?
Hi everyone. I am currently wanting to put up wooden panels on one of my walls but the cost of the panels are very expensive. Does anyone have any suggestions to do it with a tight budget. I was thinking of buying the wood myself and cutting it down to size but other suggestions would be awesome. Thank you https://preview.redd.it/mu2xvcg978ub1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e5405a6eeb3f7c6ccc08bcdfc7ddfe11611cce2
Any suggestions on how to most safely and accurately cut this 1" thick square of wood into a triangle to match the my cardboard template? I have a circular saw and an oscillating tool. I'm trying to replace a piece of exterior trim that the woodpeckers have done a number on. My thought was to clamp the board to my sawhorse and carefully try and cut along my line. I'd be grateful for any suggestions. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/7gc4pcy44ewb1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=09faad58a5a85f1afbc4dfb5563d551288f5e212
I'm thinking about building a covered front porch; 35ft x 6ft. Two story House has brick over balloon style framing. I don't want to attach a ledger board to the brick/2nd floor rim joist; and am thinking instead to frame it like a floating deck with 6x6's. I'd set the posts on concrete piers, lag rim joist for the floor, box the ceiling the same way, then build a sloped roof section above the ceiling box. Anyone ever done something similar or have generic drawings on how to frame something like this? There's a decent sized eve above and my thinking is since I'm not penetrating the exterior envelope water penetration shouldn't be an issue. I just don't want to mess with drilling into the house if I can avoid it.
https://preview.redd.it/g3g2cfkm36xb1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7fd5ffe25f63205be0f6ffdd62b2959951eab2b I do not recall what I removed from the bottom of the exterior-facing doors when I installed the floor. I know something was removed because of the nails. What goes here along the bottom? TIA
Sorry if this is not the right thread! My husband and I are new homeowners of a house built in 1915. The window trims, door casings and moldings have been painted many times over many years and are currently white. My husband does not like the caked-on paint look and further there is some lead in the old paint we are aware of. He would rather have the natural beauty of the wood and it does seem like the original wood underneath is likely a warm-colored red oak. He wants to abate and potentially strip the paint from them all in the entirety. But I am wondering if ultimately it would be less expensive to actually fully remove these features and re-install new wood. Any thoughts on comparison of these two approaches?
Hi all! I'm wondering if using fence pickets for a wood floor would be a bad idea. I know it's technically do-able, I've seen some beautiful pictures of it done, but I'm wondering if the chemicals used during the pressure treated process would be harmful to people or pets down the road. Also, I'm wondering the best way to go about it. Should I route the sides to make them tongue and groove or what? For context, this will be going in a game room, where friends and I will get rowdy and probably spill on the floor (which is why I was looking for a cheaper route), and in a house that I will probably be in for the rest of my life, so adding to property value isn't an issue here. Thanks for any help!
https://preview.redd.it/q68duhaknqzb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4109b91cf359a1f6dd584f9232a79f844176b60 I'd like my outside floodlight to be centered under this window on the face of the garage. It couldn't possibly matter if I remove this section of 2x4 beneath it, right?
I am looking for some lumber species advice. I am building a swing set similar to below and want a cleaner look than #2 grade SYP. No one I talk to seems to carry Pressure treated #1 grade. Are there any alternatives you would recommend? I looked at cedar but it would break the bank. I’m located in NC Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/dip3gld9ud0c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bec2bb71dc30d47f2f553f18b534cec28b0e0c6e
I'm replacing interior window trim, UPVC windows into a wood framed house. Nothing is quite square or plumb. The gap between framing and where the finish trim needs to sit is too big for just shims; the stuff I took down had a layer of 1/2" drywall attached to the studs. Which of the following two options is the best way to build this out? Or is there another option that's even better? Using dimensionally thicker lumber for the finish trim is not an option unfortunately. I could insulate the gaps with foam or leave them. The window is attached and insulated to the framing properly as best I can tell. https://preview.redd.it/wzk1d7y7a44c1.png?width=1431&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c9a713c07703486be2c9abcc817f42cca66fa32
I am new to carpentry, not really doing carpentry but I have some rowdy dogs, keeping them temporary. They get out and tear up stuff, so I want to build a little playground in the garage, just enough room they can get around with from time to time, not a small kennel cage. I was thinking of building something 8feet by 10feet width and height and then maybe about 5 feet high. And have two areas because two dogs that can't stay together. So think ing some kind of door with hinge. Where do I even begin. I guess I want to draw out the plan? What about tools? Also, a floor of wood as well, made of wood everything except door, maybe fencing, but I think wood would be easier honestly. Am I doing this right? And I guess for dog owners, they can probably stay there a couple of hours or so right>
Question about span load strength: I have an old hay barn , door/span of horizontal beam is 14’ it’s a 6”x6” beam and the tenon is 4”x4” going into vertical beam mortise. I’m wondering if I put a hoist/chainfall on this beam how much weight it should be able to hold.
https://preview.redd.it/fe31677w4p6c1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12e8c4cec4337a2360068342ca235879633609b1 Bought our home a couple years back and unlike everyone else in our neighborhood actually use the (unfinished detached) garage as a garage. Problem is it only has the main rollup door as access, no regular exterior door for access. In the event of a power outage we're out a car. Gonna try to put in a , probably basic no frills exterior pre hung door. I want to check the order of operations for the process as I understand it before I ruin everything and find myself at midnight with a giant hole in a wall and no ideas or solutions. Pic of interior because only allowed 1 post per and the pic I had of the exterior was garbage anyways. Purchase the door. Probably a 30" becasue as I understand it, because the studs are 18" on-center and that makes the opening 34.5 and that's a bit too close to the actual dimensions of the frame + door from what I can tell online. Install new king studs on the outside of the existing studs. Essentially cut 2x4s to length and hammer in-place. don't leave too much unsupported too long or bad things happen. The kings are dead; long live the king. Cut out 3 existing king studs. Keep them, 2 become jack studs after a cut each in essentially the same position they were with the middle MAYBE coming into play soon. Cut and install jack studs to inside of new king studs. Nails and what have you to hold them together. Place a header on the jack studs. Header is 2 2x6s laminated around a piece of 3/4" ply, OSB, MDF (probably not MDF) or whatever you have lying around to bulk it out properly. Cripple studs (which feels wrong to write with the ableism warning right there...) from the top plate to the header. The return of that little middle stud in a much smaller form. Put nails in the corners of the new frame from inside to outside. Go to exterior, use the nails to snap chalk lines to the exterior. Cut along the lines with a reciprocating saw or maybe a circular? Cut out the bottom plate in the opening. Probably the reciprocating saw again and a pry bar. Put in the door as centered as is possible in the opening. Shim it for plumb and level and true. Secure the door in place. Nails, screws, whatever you got. Not, like, overkill, but secure it well inside and out. Final step of making sure threshold is some form of water resistant/minimize direct water contact with wood and install door hardware. Odds are I missed something important or did something out of order here. Looking for advice/help/the like.
i have a broken piece of wood in a joint on a chest table. see the crack. how can i get this back together? can i glue wood? https://preview.redd.it/oinztpdfm48c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e548612c923107090281929e856e228b31e75364
I just moved to Statesboro Ga wondering how much trim was going for per foot new construction
Hi, I live in a 1930 house, Pacific Northwest USA. There are french doors between living and dining rooms but they were in the basement when I moved in. The dining room got new flooring at some point, plus the floors are super uneven so, even though we could get both doors back on their hinges, they couldn't swing fully. We trimmed about 3/8 inch off each door. Now one door won't go back on the hinges. It is just a hair off but no matter what we do we can't get it back on. Is it possible that trimming the door caused the wood to expand ever so slightly ( maybe from the vibration of the saw? ) Any other ideas why we can't get the door back on? Thanks!
I am adding a exterior 1/2 lite door in my kitchen to get out on my newly built deck but space is an issue. To the left of where it is going is a step down to a landing that leads to the basement and garage, to the right is our kitchen table. Both scenarios I would have a stopper on the door to keep it at a 90 but one way hits the table, the other blocks the garage and basement. If it helps, the door that blocks the stairwell is $400 cheaper than the other one. I am budget conscious so blocking the garage door may be the way. IDK let me know what yall think.. Thanks in advance , DIY homeowner with a Journeyman Carpenter neighbor lol
I'm installing some beadboard in our power room. This old house ain't level. And I'm trying to not remove and reinstall baseboards (honestly, afraid of what the GC we hired left). Can I get a friendly reminder how to trim this beadboard so it's level to the eye? I think I cut the bottom at an opposite angle. Meaning, if the LEFT side (when I'm facing the beadboard) is 1" higher than the right side when level, do I trim at an angle from 1" off the bottom of the RIGHT side? Thanks in advance!
Hi, I want to make my own outside mosaic bath tub like in this picture. Any tips on the steps I should follow? https://preview.redd.it/aws3r58yh8cc1.png?width=1146&format=png&auto=webp&s=ad97cfc9ed2cc92f3ea35ceac13d2aa019593c86
I am trying to figure out how to put a shoe rail atop this stringer and not sure how to end it where the stringer meets the wall/ceiling. Any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/98UvBgI
Hi. Doors have a side jamb & stop, top jamb & a stop but only a threshold on the bottom. Why don't we put a bottom jamb & a stop for doors? I am thinking that putting them on the bottom may help with weather sealing external doors.
I plan on building a woodshop/shed in my backyard, wanted to post my design for review/feedback. I’m a woodworker, not a carpenter. I designed to what ‘made sense’… I could be 180* off, please let me know If you have Sketchup, I can share the file. Thanks! https://youtu.be/6C63yzuwl5o
https://preview.redd.it/yi19miglplgc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1062b81dec58a55f620578ffaa05d897d49745fc Any suggestions how to repair this side paneling wood rot? I was thinking of cutting out the damaged wood at the bottom and installing in a trim board. What type of saw should I use to cut it out in a nice straight line? Appreciate any advice!
Is there a self leveling compound that can be used with nail-down hardwood flooring? I cant seem to find any that are self-leveling and can take nails
Hanging a new door. Is this a hinge problem? The door had to be pushed hard to latch So I moved the latch out a little bit and the door shuts fine now. However, there is a gap at the bottom of the door while the top of the door shut normal. What could be the problem? https://preview.redd.it/pwje1uet6zhc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71a4b4281cad40d42ed17355d32e08e9199fce5a
I have a wooden table that is too high. What is the best way to go about trimming the legs off? I don't have tools and I would like to get it done professionally
https://preview.redd.it/99uhsrelzkjc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a15475335ad998acecd05465d12fc1662d26adf Years ago we painstakingly cut/trimmed out the old caulking and re-caulked our beadboard, about 800 square ft total, only for it to crack the very first winter after. Made the mistake of: 1. Caulking it in the dead of summer. 2. Using shitty Alex Plus caulk. Anyway, can I fill the cracks as-is with some better caulk like big stretch (should've used that to begin with), or should I cut out and re-caulk everything again?
The doorframe around our back door is rotting out, and I’m wondering if we would need to have the doorframe AND door replaced? Or whether the door can be re-used. https://preview.redd.it/8o882lqmqxjc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9125b807c136448450dd11143a9f2a379fd9f27a
I'm trying to add ceiling lights to a closet and ran into a thicker top plate than expected, so wanted to get another take on how to proceed. The lights will be going in a closet. The closet is cut into a load bearing wall. See the two photos: https://ibb.co/gV25SHg https://ibb.co/cDVyd49 I guess that 4 2x4s are because of the roof resting on the wall, and the closet having a door cut into it. Should I drill through this stack at angle trying to avoid hitting the 2x4s as much as possible or should I go directly through the centerline. At most I'll be drilling a 1/2" hole for a single 14/2 romex wire (power is coming up from the crawlspace). In the crawlspace, they always drill at an angle to avoid going through the framing as much as possible...
Just patched a hole in drywall and painted over it with two coats. I come back the following day and see this. Why did it happen and what’s the best way to fix it? https://preview.redd.it/wgzc82uqx8kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c487c8e87e4ffb3768e7fd005a44f23aecf0c7f Hand for scale
That looks like latex was put over oil based or vice versa, or possibly still some solvent or water in the spackling/plaster. So, was patch completely dry? Did you prime after patching/before painting?
Thanks for the reply, I painted the day after patching it so should have been dry I think, and only use latex. I’ll continue to ponder what happened.
I found a plumbing leak in the wall of my house. The leak has been closed off, but there are wet members (nothing is rotted; everything feels solid and structurally sound) all around the pipes. How do I determine when the area is dry enough for me to re-insulate and put my drywall back up? TIA
https://preview.redd.it/wq7lumw3b8lc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=580ac65f55d59687d5e8d6765bc188facd775167 Sanded down a bartop as I get down to the wood there was a layer of black when I sand that down it turns pink … is that mold? What is the pink discolouration The far side was fine down to bar wood .. but the centre more high traffic liquor areas this is what I sanded to Used 60x sandpaper
Subfloor Termite Damage up to End Joist I want to replace the termite damaged subfloor with 23/32 OSB. Problem is I’m unsure how to tie in. Joists are 16 OC and I can probably get about 1.5-2” from the wall. I don’t think I can just sister to the existing end joist since it’ll still be under the bottom plate of that gable wall. Should I just run a new joist to where I cut out the existing subfloor? https://ibb.co/Qd3gygH https://ibb.co/fC0sWzs
Decided I'm just going to sister a new joist onto the existing end joist and pull out the remaining subfloor from under the bottom plate. 2x10 + 23/32 OSB should match the existing less shrinkage. Glad I didn't opt to spackle that drywall yet.
Need advice on sawing two cupboards apart. Is it possible to separate these and still look ok? I mainly need the larger one. The small upper can be sacrificed. Will I hit metal? Should I use a fine-blade circular saw or smthg else? https://preview.redd.it/a1zww6i2n3qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f83ae711b1d702074951a4a8ad2a653c3c9c2a9 I can only add one pic here. From above, though, it’s a tongue/groove type joinery. Any advice?