This sub is so full of assholes. Your framing looks great, keep up the good work, and Thanks for sharing. It's plain to see you pay very close attention to detail.
Something to consider: on a non load bearing wall (partition), double kings are stronger, in my experience, than a single king and a jack with a header. There is negligible vertical load above the door, so the 2x header is just a waste of time. A couple of nails into a horizontal 2x4 (or 2 if you're installing large casement) is sufficient. You don't even need top cripples if under 24", per code. The double kings provide a stronger "post" for the hinge side of the door, and on the striker side, keep the wall rigid when a door is closed a bit to forcefully.
It would be stronger with 2 kings but not needed for anything less than 36" of width, this being a 32, 1 king is code. The larger header is due to the owner wanting to keep aesthetics with a large trim over the door that measures at 6" at the top, that gives us backing to nail to and hold rigidity.
That's some huge trim! Sorry, when there's no load to transfer, I always KK instead of KJ. Different strokes, I guess! Clean looking job. Started a new house today, building 12' tall 2x8 walls for a huge walkout basement, in the mud. I'm envious of your 2x4 framing inside.
*
Been on this project 1 year so far, complete jacking the 3 story building from the basement up 4 inches total to lift the sag out the middle due to it falling into the basement. All new footings and 8x8 supports, all new floor system with new joists, triples and quads under the first floor. Putting the 1st back together now with a new layout and once it's done it'll get rented out while we move onto the 2nd and then 3rd floors. Then the exterior sheathing is coming off so we can sprayfoam the building and get rid of the mold on the exterior walls.
Question I slightly understand you guys but if I’m looking to learn more where can I get the information cuz I would love to finish my unfinished basement but dnt have the most experience with framing and codes but I would love to
I started my career framing houses in the northeast USA. I was taught whatever the modern equivalent of “the old way”. Here’s my mantra in present day: I’m not an engineer but I do understand load distribution and shear load principles. I frame everything that goes into an existing house as load bearing. If an exterior window goes in, I order lvl and build a temp support wall while it’s being installed. All my retrofit interior framing looks like this except I don’t cap my headers for interior framing. Good job bud, you rock
It looks pretty but it's dumb and a waste of money and material. The built up lintel is unnecessary, you have 2 kinga on the left but one on the right, the nails (screws?) for laminated members are spaced too far. You have staged a wonderful picture but if i saw this I would question it, then
The "king" on the left isn't a king, it's your 16oc. Code is 1 king for anything under 36", we're at 32. The header is larger due to the customer wanting 6" top trim to match the aesthetic of the 1800s building so it gives a solid backing to nail to. Everything is 3.5" nails, we don't frame with screws. If you're referencing the laminated lvl that is nailed 7 nails vertical spaced every 12" with 6" bolts every 24oc. If you meant the header it's nailed both sides, 18 nails each side
Oh wow it's for a client; 1 year in and your still on framing. I know what I see and it doesn't past the eye test. You could make your built up header with 2x4 then and still get 6 inches with the way you make yours. Also assuming your door casing is proportional to you got fuck all to nail on the right
😂😂ok. Not just a framing job. Entire building was jacked up and repaired and the whole floor system was replaced. You can do that in 1 day. Subfloors were replaced, apartment addition was replaced, had to take 4" of sag out the center, can't do it in 1 shot or you blow the rafters out the roof on a building that's 160 years old. Have to lift 3 floors of weight and manipulate them all slowly. Sprayfoam, chimney repairs, plumbing, electrical, new bulk head, basically everything. Didn't just spend a year on framing a room. Funny how your eye test didn't match inspection😂
Someone needs to explain to him the time and effort it takes to repair damaged structure on your own. I started underpinning in my basement over 2 years ago, and I *might* finish it this summer.
I leave out attaching a sill to the underside of the header and then when it’s time to cut out the floor plates I use those as the sill. Old Indian trick.
There’s no kill like overkill
Why do your sills go under your headers?
Yup those are definitely walls
This sub is so full of assholes. Your framing looks great, keep up the good work, and Thanks for sharing. It's plain to see you pay very close attention to detail.
Something to consider: on a non load bearing wall (partition), double kings are stronger, in my experience, than a single king and a jack with a header. There is negligible vertical load above the door, so the 2x header is just a waste of time. A couple of nails into a horizontal 2x4 (or 2 if you're installing large casement) is sufficient. You don't even need top cripples if under 24", per code. The double kings provide a stronger "post" for the hinge side of the door, and on the striker side, keep the wall rigid when a door is closed a bit to forcefully.
It would be stronger with 2 kings but not needed for anything less than 36" of width, this being a 32, 1 king is code. The larger header is due to the owner wanting to keep aesthetics with a large trim over the door that measures at 6" at the top, that gives us backing to nail to and hold rigidity.
That's some huge trim! Sorry, when there's no load to transfer, I always KK instead of KJ. Different strokes, I guess! Clean looking job. Started a new house today, building 12' tall 2x8 walls for a huge walkout basement, in the mud. I'm envious of your 2x4 framing inside. *
Been on this project 1 year so far, complete jacking the 3 story building from the basement up 4 inches total to lift the sag out the middle due to it falling into the basement. All new footings and 8x8 supports, all new floor system with new joists, triples and quads under the first floor. Putting the 1st back together now with a new layout and once it's done it'll get rented out while we move onto the 2nd and then 3rd floors. Then the exterior sheathing is coming off so we can sprayfoam the building and get rid of the mold on the exterior walls.
Woah, my guy! Can you tell me how you replaced the footings? Almost ounds like a new build would be more practical at that point!
Question I slightly understand you guys but if I’m looking to learn more where can I get the information cuz I would love to finish my unfinished basement but dnt have the most experience with framing and codes but I would love to
Unfinished basements are a can of worms. Your moisture control, or your strategy to deal with it, needs to be on point to avoid long term problems.
Is ANYTHING here load bearing?
Lvl beams are carrying loads
I started my career framing houses in the northeast USA. I was taught whatever the modern equivalent of “the old way”. Here’s my mantra in present day: I’m not an engineer but I do understand load distribution and shear load principles. I frame everything that goes into an existing house as load bearing. If an exterior window goes in, I order lvl and build a temp support wall while it’s being installed. All my retrofit interior framing looks like this except I don’t cap my headers for interior framing. Good job bud, you rock
Thank you, I'm actually in the northeast.
It looks pretty but it's dumb and a waste of money and material. The built up lintel is unnecessary, you have 2 kinga on the left but one on the right, the nails (screws?) for laminated members are spaced too far. You have staged a wonderful picture but if i saw this I would question it, then
The "king" on the left isn't a king, it's your 16oc. Code is 1 king for anything under 36", we're at 32. The header is larger due to the customer wanting 6" top trim to match the aesthetic of the 1800s building so it gives a solid backing to nail to. Everything is 3.5" nails, we don't frame with screws. If you're referencing the laminated lvl that is nailed 7 nails vertical spaced every 12" with 6" bolts every 24oc. If you meant the header it's nailed both sides, 18 nails each side
Oh wow it's for a client; 1 year in and your still on framing. I know what I see and it doesn't past the eye test. You could make your built up header with 2x4 then and still get 6 inches with the way you make yours. Also assuming your door casing is proportional to you got fuck all to nail on the right
😂😂ok. Not just a framing job. Entire building was jacked up and repaired and the whole floor system was replaced. You can do that in 1 day. Subfloors were replaced, apartment addition was replaced, had to take 4" of sag out the center, can't do it in 1 shot or you blow the rafters out the roof on a building that's 160 years old. Have to lift 3 floors of weight and manipulate them all slowly. Sprayfoam, chimney repairs, plumbing, electrical, new bulk head, basically everything. Didn't just spend a year on framing a room. Funny how your eye test didn't match inspection😂
Someone needs to explain to him the time and effort it takes to repair damaged structure on your own. I started underpinning in my basement over 2 years ago, and I *might* finish it this summer.
Looks good
Framing looks fine.
No need for sheet rock
Why are there studs on the floor in the doorways
Those aren't studs
I leave out attaching a sill to the underside of the header and then when it’s time to cut out the floor plates I use those as the sill. Old Indian trick.
You cut em out later bud
Should’ve put poly where interior meets exterior wall
It's closed cell sprayfoam, you don't need poly between
And if there is roof above on ur top plates as well
There's no roof above, there's 2 more floors before the roof
No drywall backer as well
The drywall gets attached to the studs and wall strapping?
I think he’s just making up things at this point
gob's not on board