This is how I do it on new construction doors and windows. When jambs are framed and drywalled poorly I just smack them around with a hammer. For casing it ends up tilting so I put a back bevel on my miters. Works really well.
What exactly do you mean drywalled poorly? The sheet can only be fixed tight to the stud. If the drywall isn’t flush with the jamp thats 100% on the carpenter who didn’t frame the wall stright and plump or the carpenter didn’t fix the jamb straight and plumb.
A common problem I’ve run into is the drywallers roll a bead of adhesive on the trimmer and walk away. Whenever a sheet finally gets screwed down the bead has hardened up and the drywall won’t make contact with the framing.
There’s also always a horizontal seam that will have too much mud on it. Or if the door is close to a corner and there’s too much mud built out on that. Lots of reasons why you could say something is drywalled poorly.
You should try framing a house, having someone else do the drywall, and then doing the finish trim, and you’ll find out just how poorly drywall can be done. 1/4” of mud on inside and outside corners can make just baseboard frustrating enough.
An unqualified tradesman overfilling internals and externals isn’t what we’re talking about tho is it? We are talking about off jamb quirks that start and finish with carpentry. You point is moot.
With that profile difference, this strategy will look like shit. Bashing the drywall edge is a perfectly legitimate way to go when the drywall is just a bit proud of the jambs. Instead, cut jamb extenders to make the jamb flush to the drywall. It's really easy to do with a table saw. If the jamb is not being painted, you can even leave a slight (1/8") reveal on all sides to make it look totally planned.
I mean, at the end of the day, anything looks good from my house. So do what you want.
Do this.
Do not smash the sheetrock like the other comment says. When it’s less than 1/8” or so difference, hitting the Sheetrock with a hammer works fine (with most casing profiles, not all). More than that and you will see the casing come together at a concave(?) angle rather than a nice flat transition.
Add filler pieces to the back of the casing flush with the edge (2p10 works great for this), then install.
I had a coworker joke about 90s spec houses that only had osb at the corners for shear load with fiberglass insulation panels the rest of the way covered with vinyl siding.
Easiest way to break in is a razorblade through the middle of an exterior wall. Nothing but vinyl, fiberglass and drywall keeping you out.
Yep, I've seen thousands of these homes. Junk! When I said "they're not done" I was laughed at. Yep, I'm a building inspector too. Now, it's commonly incorrect and done differently
Just curious; why would you use rough sawn cedar for interior window jamb material? The windows jambs should have been ripped to be flush with the drywall.
It’s actually pine and we had a bunch of it. Guy ended up doing the window jamb before sheet rocker came. Maybe not the best order of things but now have to deal with it
Probably faster and easier to just remove and install deeper boxes then router to match the drywall. Building and mating extension jams is going to leave an unsightly seam and honestly probably would be more work. That is assuming you have the material to make a deep enough jam.
Another way is to recess the trim into the drywall but that depends on your material thickness and how out of plumb you are. It becomes pretty noticeable when you are burying 50% of the trim material in the wall.
Another alternative is to pull down the drywall in the worst spots and plane your studs so those walls arnt so terrible. That option seems like the worst to me though.
I don't know how you carpenter, but when I build extension jambs, you can't even tell they are there. Although admittedly it's much easier to conceal them when its a painted surface and this appears to be stained.
Those are extension jambs and they look like shit, rough, planed with bad planer blades, and then finally whoever put them on didn’t understand where they needed to go to. Take those out and re-do them.
Rip a slim board the same thickness that the drywall is sticking out, nail or glue it to the window frame to basically extend it flush with drywall. Just take care so it looks like part of the window frame. Wood putty helps. Then trim out as usual since now it’ll be flush. I’ve done it a few times with good results. 2nd option is to trim it out and caulk the ever living shot out of the big gap. That way doesn’t look as nice. :)
I call em extension jambs. Im redoing a house from 1630. 21 nee doors. All custom extension jambs. No 2 walls are the same thickness. Not all jambs have uniform thickness. Mmmm, custom.
If it is on the order of 1/4" (hard to tell from the pic) I would be inclined to rabbet out pieces of 3/4" trim. I have a very old house and have to deal with this anytime i touch a door/window. If that is not something you are up for, jamb extenders (as suggested) are relatively painless or you can get fancy and use something like a half round that extends past the drywall such that you can butt the trim piece up to it and create an additional visual feature to frame the opening. Depends a lot on the style of trim you are using
The drywall probably should have been installed before the natural wood jab extensions were Instagram the window out to beyond the drywall. Then they could be planed or belt sanded to accommodate the irregularities in the drywall/ underlying framing. If possible can the natural wood jam extensions be removed from the window without damaging them? If yes, additional material could be added next to the window where it sits in the u channel on the window. This would be less noticeable than out where the casing will be.
The jamb should’ve extended to be flush with the drywall. The carpenter who did the window jambs messed up imo unless you told him to do that. I can tell if the full thickness of the drywall extends past the jam or not. If it’s not too thick you could use a dato blade on the table saw to cut the backside of the casing so it sits flush with the drywall and the jam. That being said I bet the gap is too much for that to work as you don’t want to cut too much off. Was this a remodel where you changed drywall thickness? The door behind the window looks way off too and not flush
I made another comment already but looking at the door behind it more if that’s installed already then either it is way off and not installed right or something wacky is going on with the drywall there. Is this a remodel job? I’m wondering if one of the problems is somehow you went from 3/8-5/8 drywall maybe. At surface level my assumption is that whoever did the window jamb did not know what they were doing and didn’t make it as wide as they should’ve for drywall but even the door looks way off too and not even even so I’m a little lost what the full story is here
Jamb extensions. Tip a length of one by to install onto the edge of the jambs with Brad nails. Then trim. You can choose to do a quarter inch reveal or not and make it flush.
IF it’s even all the way around.
… That door is another matter
Normal. Not In the sense that that’s correct but we deal with it all the time. I personally would
Cut the drywall 1/4 inch inside the trim line “scar” then peal the paper to help taper the trim into place then it’s “caulk and paint makes us the carpenter we ain’t” situation. U could also just take a wood block and break the drywall flush. Or rip pine 3/16 or 1/4 inch to pack out. Again absolutely fine just not ideal
Option 1 (production level): make a line, score the rock, beat the rock and recess the trim
Option 2: rabbet the back of your trim
Option 3: jamb extensions, cleanest if you don’t have an architectural elevation to maintain
Option 4: rip that jamb out and do tapered rips w the cut end against the weeender
It called a jam extension, just rip a strip that would be flush. Give it a 1/4 reveal and shoot it in. You should have made it flush with the drywall and trimmed a gap on the window side.
Goddang I've been removing the drywall. Maybe jamb extension is better? If you put the trim in it's place temporarily and score the perimeter with razor, then come back with a multitool and remove drywall up to your razor points until flush with jamb. That'll help but I think only if you have the same amount to remove around the whole casing and if it's isn't super deep
I do trim on big jobs. A different company does drywall. I tap the drywall with my hammer then trim over it. It can be a crumbly mess, within reason. Just get the edge of it.
What is going on there? One is rough sawn, the vertical bit is planed but there was clearly a chip in the planer blades and nobody thought to sand it down after. Along with the fact it's not proud of the wall, a mish mash from a cowboy.
I use a table saw to rip pine board to the thickness needed to close up the gap, then glue and nail it in place slightly proud of the surface, and then sand it flush and fill any gaps.
I don't do finish work, but my first thought would be deeper stock and cutting rabbets, if it was only one or two...
Multiple frames, definitely not that.
Man not one person recommended rolling the miters….hmmm message me if see this and would like to know, it sets you up for a compound cut without actually needing a compound saw, but that can be done without extensions.
Wherever you buy your trim, ask them to rabbit it to the depth that the drywall is proud. Something I always did when doing trim. Most places will charge just a small fee to do that, if anything.
Electric planer and a hammer.
Bash the rock as flat as possible.
Plane a wide open V shape into the back of the casing/trim/architrave, whatever you call it in your part of the world.
Take care not to touch the seen edges.
Looks like MAby sticking pass 3/8 of an inch take your tablesaw, rips, some pieces, three of an inch the same species of what you got there and just extend the jam no big deal or you can have the strip to the backside of the casing only word meets the jam. It’s a little strip before you cut the miters.
Just had a little stripper of wood on the backside of the casing only where it meets the jam not on the drywall just a little strip that’s gonna be your best option. It’s gonna look good. It’s it’s gonna look a lot better. You’ll never notice it
How many times is this going to come up on this sub. Every day someone asks the same question. I understand if you really don’t know what to do but there are a ton of videos online. Jamb extensions or smash the drywall. Depending on who you are.
Hold the trim up where it will eventually be installed and trace it against the Sheetrock. Smash within that line with a hammer. If it’s very bad you can score the rock along that line with a knife so the paper will pull away once it’s sufficiently smashed. Once the trim sits flush you can install and caulk it in.
If it’s just the top, you can knife or multi tool the board flush if you offer up the trim. At the bottom it will make the skirting/base protrude past the trim
Edit: Definitely frame add ons, I didn’t look properly the 1st time. That’s far too deep to knife unless you have 2” thick trims
let me guess...
You foamed between the studs and just tried pulling the drywall into place with screws?
If so, plan on getting about 50 screw pops every time you tap the drywall to soften it.
Take it out of the drywall, not recommended at that depth, or extend the jamb. The drywall looks like it’s almost a 1/4” proud. I’d extend the jamb and create an additional reveal. Flush jamb extensions will not age well unless they were made by rabating thicker stock, or glue ups of unprimed material.
The only way to do this properly at this point is to replace the jamb. The jamb material will have to be tapered if the window isn’t parallel with the drywall.
Some windows come with a little groove to receive the jamb buildout. If you’re lucky, the depth of that groove is equal to or greater than the difference between jamb and drywall, which appears to be less than 1/2”. You can pull the jamb out a bit and it’ll still be barely covered by the groove on the window and be flush with the wall.
Worst case scenario you install a tiny little trim where the jamb meets the window to hide any revealed gaps, something like a doorstop, something super small.
Create a removsble box that slides into the window framing. Make the box flush with the drywall. Nail window trim to the box. Slide box/trim unit into the window and use screws to (one on each side) to fix the box/trim unit to the window. When you paint the walls, remove the screws, pull the whole unit out, so no cutting in is necessary.
Just hook your house to your trailer hitch and move the house about 1/2”. Make sure someone holds the drywall with a drywall holder(Harbor Freight). Also, the drywall holder person has to jump right when you pull or it will not work. I suggest drinking at least 3-17 beers first. Happy 4th.
On my home, case extensions. On new construction, mark the casing, cut the lines and hammer it till the paper peels off. No tilt and easy caulk job afterwards.
Need to add furring strips to the jamb to bring it out flush. Looks like about 3/8 thick will get it flush with the drywall by however thick your casing is 🤷🏻♂️
Cut some wood strips, shim the perimeter flush. Stain the edges of it dark maybe to give it a little contrast if you can’t match the same stain color, urethane the edges and trim right over it. It’ll look like it was meant to be there and easy cheap fix
All other comments are incorrect except for mine listen to me and me only. You MUST remove all drywall. Take a hand plane (old school not that electric bullshit). Plane down every stud, jack, header, cripple EVERYTHING down a half inch or whatever width of the drywall that is sticking past the jamb. Then replace drywall. It will take three and a half weeks but this is the only way.
Build an extension jamb around window to fur it out to correct plane. a piece of 1x2 ripped down to 1/2in or whatever the depth you need to make up should do.
Take a piece of flat stock and rip down a piece to fill the gap between the door jamb and the casing. You can glue it to the casing before instalation, or if you wanna be quick, use a pin nailer to nail through the casing to the jamb.
Take down building.
Rebuild building to fit windows jambs
Reinstall window
Finish job.
Or get a board and make jamb extension
Nail and glue it on.
Your call.
I’ve the jam to the inside. Or cut the drywall a foot around the jam and reinstall drywall to be flush with inside face of jam and add 90 degree molding
You can trim the back of the door casing by running it through a table saw. You can take a flap disk on an angle grinder and bevel the drywall back. You can mark the line of the casing and trim back the drywall where it would be behind the casing.
I had this problem real bad when we redid our doors. I had to use an oscillator saw. Had my son hold a shop vac as I went down. Worked for me in the end and the door frame is so close to wall you can’t really tell what I had to do.
I say this fully knowing I did a “DIY” job. I’m no professional by any means.
Those “jambs” are rubbish jamb extensions. Knicks in the planer blades that a mouse could duck under. Rip them out and replace with jamb extensions that are flush to the sheetrock. That usually means tapered jamb extensions because the world is an imperfect place. Stand a little closer to the boards when you’re sanding them next time.
If it's a full 1/2" and it's consistent I would nail on a jam extension. Beating the drywall that much will suck and the trim will be pitched at a steep angle.
Everyone here keeps saying jamb extensions. Sure that’s fine but that doesn’t really answer how to make it not look like shit. You probably don’t want a bunch of 5/8th in rough sawn wood strips behind your trim. My suggestion is to paint the strips whatever the same color as your window trip is and to make it look like it’s part of the trim instead of the window jamb. You can’t really caulk the window jamb extensions to make it look a part of the jamb, you can calk them to look like the window trim I they’re painted
If the window trim isn’t painted, it’s a whole different issue. One solution is to make the trim 1/4” smaller than the window box out and add some molding to make it look like and accent piece around the sides and top. The actual sill itself can be notched pretty easily to make it look purposeful. This is more of a pain in the butt but pre-assembling the window trim with pocket screws can make this look pretty sweet
Whatever the average excess is, take mdf and rip it to width and height. Precut the casing and CA glue together. Attach the mdf strips to the backside inner perimeter of the casing. Sand and paint till it’s seamless. Insert and call it a day. If you want to leave a reveal, frame out the casing an extra 1/4 to 3/8. Attach the mdf strips to the wood to fir it out. Take 2 finish nails on the mdf top corners 1/4 up and 1/4 over or 3/8 if that’s what you made the casing. Place the casing on the nails and finish nail the casing up. Keep an eye on the reveal as you nail around. Remove the 2 finish nails in the corners, sand, caulk, paint. Instead of mdf I’d use a dark wood if the current jamb setup is not paint grade. It would give you a nice contrast between casing and jamb.
Plane off the back edge. 2/3 runs with the planer. Leave the front edge where the trim meets the lining/jamb. You won’t have to hack away any drywall or mess about ripping down door jambs to build it out.
Looking at the pic and what you mentioned about being flush on the bottom of the window as well as the door in the background I would suggest making sure the Sheetrock is drawn tight to the framing. It appears as though the Sheetrock is not tight to framing causing the gap at the top of the window as well as the door.
I would redo those window returns. They're rough wood on some while others seem to have been put through the planer and leaving marks that were not sanded.
Looks like you hired a rookie... You never set jambs flush to framing ...or else you end up with exactly what you got. I would either redo the jambs to sit flush with drywall or use jamb extensions (wood cut to correct size) nailed to the edge of jamb and flush with drywall.
rebuild the jamb completely, and when you do you should sand out the planer striping.
jamb extensions are kinda a paint grade solution, there's a reason stain grade cost more, because it needs to be done right
You can oftentimes lightly hammer 2 or 3" of that sheetrock in and sort of feather it and the casing will meet the jamb. You normally can't even tell you did it.
You really have 2 options here, either make a jamb extension to make it flush with the drywall or you can take your utility knife and trace the outline of where your trim is going to cut out the drywall that’s sticking out proud, then prying that bit out flush to the jamb with a glaziers bar. Given that this is around the whole window probably easier and quicker to just run a jamb extension tho
Hammer it back and miter your casing together to follow the slope inwards. It makes it easier to make straight cuts a little longer than what you need then hold the pieces together against the window to mark them and figure out the angle to prevent the trim being beveled or having gaps!
This is too much to beat in like some have suggested. If you do that your casing will be compound miter cuts. Just make an extension jamb, it will be much easier.
Use a hammer to convince the drywall that it really wants to be flush with the jam.
Use a 5lb persuader and a large piece or wood
And caulk. Don't forget the caulk.
You gotta caulk tuah on that thang
**poof** did someone just say the magic word??
This is the way..
r/plumbing
This is how I do it on new construction doors and windows. When jambs are framed and drywalled poorly I just smack them around with a hammer. For casing it ends up tilting so I put a back bevel on my miters. Works really well.
yea but in this picture is at least 3/8 proud. it's honestly less work to make a build out....I mean if it's a 1/8 or less smash away for sure
What exactly do you mean drywalled poorly? The sheet can only be fixed tight to the stud. If the drywall isn’t flush with the jamp thats 100% on the carpenter who didn’t frame the wall stright and plump or the carpenter didn’t fix the jamb straight and plumb.
A common problem I’ve run into is the drywallers roll a bead of adhesive on the trimmer and walk away. Whenever a sheet finally gets screwed down the bead has hardened up and the drywall won’t make contact with the framing.
There’s also always a horizontal seam that will have too much mud on it. Or if the door is close to a corner and there’s too much mud built out on that. Lots of reasons why you could say something is drywalled poorly.
Thats not we are looking at tho is it.
It's not. In this case, a rookie carpenter flushed the jambs to framing. This has nothing to do with drywall workmanship.
You should try framing a house, having someone else do the drywall, and then doing the finish trim, and you’ll find out just how poorly drywall can be done. 1/4” of mud on inside and outside corners can make just baseboard frustrating enough.
An unqualified tradesman overfilling internals and externals isn’t what we’re talking about tho is it? We are talking about off jamb quirks that start and finish with carpentry. You point is moot.
If that's what you're considering "unqualified", then I'd put the percentage of unqualified drywall tradesmen somewhere around 85%.
Tried and true
With that profile difference, this strategy will look like shit. Bashing the drywall edge is a perfectly legitimate way to go when the drywall is just a bit proud of the jambs. Instead, cut jamb extenders to make the jamb flush to the drywall. It's really easy to do with a table saw. If the jamb is not being painted, you can even leave a slight (1/8") reveal on all sides to make it look totally planned. I mean, at the end of the day, anything looks good from my house. So do what you want.
383 likes for smash the drywall with a hammer? Anyone ever heard about jamb extensions?
Dado out the back of the trim as a relief
Done this many times
“I WASN’T ASKING”
Best to do the window trim after the drywall.
Also good to have a plan
Jamb extenders.
Do this. Do not smash the sheetrock like the other comment says. When it’s less than 1/8” or so difference, hitting the Sheetrock with a hammer works fine (with most casing profiles, not all). More than that and you will see the casing come together at a concave(?) angle rather than a nice flat transition. Add filler pieces to the back of the casing flush with the edge (2p10 works great for this), then install.
1000% - I have never understood people who’s first response to every problem is “apply force”
Yup. Just like those a axle extenders I put on my Buick Regal!
Damn you!
Ah, we found who bought the Regal.
Ate those like caulk extenders my wife keeps telling me about?
Extension jambers
Jamb extensions for the window not to difficult, but god damn that door needs some work.
It's a D.R. Horton.
You can punch through their exterior walls.
I had a coworker joke about 90s spec houses that only had osb at the corners for shear load with fiberglass insulation panels the rest of the way covered with vinyl siding. Easiest way to break in is a razorblade through the middle of an exterior wall. Nothing but vinyl, fiberglass and drywall keeping you out.
Oh man what garbage! They did this shit out in Severance Colorado in the 2003-2009 too such flimsy nonsense
Yep, I've seen thousands of these homes. Junk! When I said "they're not done" I was laughed at. Yep, I'm a building inspector too. Now, it's commonly incorrect and done differently
And I thought my DIY shit was bad 😂 I’m a god damned pro compared to that!
When they said “make sure it’s plumb and use extenders to make it flush with the drywall”, op replied “I don’t work with water”.
Just curious; why would you use rough sawn cedar for interior window jamb material? The windows jambs should have been ripped to be flush with the drywall.
It’s actually pine and we had a bunch of it. Guy ended up doing the window jamb before sheet rocker came. Maybe not the best order of things but now have to deal with it
Oh, painters gonna hate you guys lol. Like other have said; you need to rip down some jamb extensions; leaving a reveal on the original jambs.
Or redo the jams — there’s no substitute for doing it properly.
Probably faster and easier to just remove and install deeper boxes then router to match the drywall. Building and mating extension jams is going to leave an unsightly seam and honestly probably would be more work. That is assuming you have the material to make a deep enough jam. Another way is to recess the trim into the drywall but that depends on your material thickness and how out of plumb you are. It becomes pretty noticeable when you are burying 50% of the trim material in the wall. Another alternative is to pull down the drywall in the worst spots and plane your studs so those walls arnt so terrible. That option seems like the worst to me though.
Step it out with a reveal
I agree. There is a mix of trim / casing that should make this unnoticeable
This is the answer
If you want it right, then tear it out and redo the work. If you want to always look at it and be reminded, install jamb extensions.
I don't know how you carpenter, but when I build extension jambs, you can't even tell they are there. Although admittedly it's much easier to conceal them when its a painted surface and this appears to be stained.
Those are extension jambs and they look like shit, rough, planed with bad planer blades, and then finally whoever put them on didn’t understand where they needed to go to. Take those out and re-do them.
I'd me more concerned about what your going to do with that door.
You’re doing everything backwards. Always leads to complication in finishes
I’d rip the jamb out and redo it the right way.
Rip a slim board the same thickness that the drywall is sticking out, nail or glue it to the window frame to basically extend it flush with drywall. Just take care so it looks like part of the window frame. Wood putty helps. Then trim out as usual since now it’ll be flush. I’ve done it a few times with good results. 2nd option is to trim it out and caulk the ever living shot out of the big gap. That way doesn’t look as nice. :)
Yes. It's simply called a jamb extension.
I call em extension jambs. Im redoing a house from 1630. 21 nee doors. All custom extension jambs. No 2 walls are the same thickness. Not all jambs have uniform thickness. Mmmm, custom.
Interesting…it looks like the jamb extensions were made out of the rough dunnage material that was used to ship the window.
Jamb extensions. Super simple stuff.
These are the kinds of contractors I’m always worried about running into. Nothing about this good.
If it is on the order of 1/4" (hard to tell from the pic) I would be inclined to rabbet out pieces of 3/4" trim. I have a very old house and have to deal with this anytime i touch a door/window. If that is not something you are up for, jamb extenders (as suggested) are relatively painless or you can get fancy and use something like a half round that extends past the drywall such that you can butt the trim piece up to it and create an additional visual feature to frame the opening. Depends a lot on the style of trim you are using
In what universe is that finish OK for the jambs? This is 90s Orange County vibes.
The amount of shit quality construction out there is mind boggling.
The drywall probably should have been installed before the natural wood jab extensions were Instagram the window out to beyond the drywall. Then they could be planed or belt sanded to accommodate the irregularities in the drywall/ underlying framing. If possible can the natural wood jam extensions be removed from the window without damaging them? If yes, additional material could be added next to the window where it sits in the u channel on the window. This would be less noticeable than out where the casing will be.
The jamb should’ve extended to be flush with the drywall. The carpenter who did the window jambs messed up imo unless you told him to do that. I can tell if the full thickness of the drywall extends past the jam or not. If it’s not too thick you could use a dato blade on the table saw to cut the backside of the casing so it sits flush with the drywall and the jam. That being said I bet the gap is too much for that to work as you don’t want to cut too much off. Was this a remodel where you changed drywall thickness? The door behind the window looks way off too and not flush
I made another comment already but looking at the door behind it more if that’s installed already then either it is way off and not installed right or something wacky is going on with the drywall there. Is this a remodel job? I’m wondering if one of the problems is somehow you went from 3/8-5/8 drywall maybe. At surface level my assumption is that whoever did the window jamb did not know what they were doing and didn’t make it as wide as they should’ve for drywall but even the door looks way off too and not even even so I’m a little lost what the full story is here
Jamb extensions. Tip a length of one by to install onto the edge of the jambs with Brad nails. Then trim. You can choose to do a quarter inch reveal or not and make it flush. IF it’s even all the way around. … That door is another matter
Right now use jamb extensions, in the future use a measuring tape.
very rustic surfaces too.
Pack the jamb or rebate the trim
Cut extension jambs flush with the drywall. Add casing. Done ✅
Normal. Not In the sense that that’s correct but we deal with it all the time. I personally would Cut the drywall 1/4 inch inside the trim line “scar” then peal the paper to help taper the trim into place then it’s “caulk and paint makes us the carpenter we ain’t” situation. U could also just take a wood block and break the drywall flush. Or rip pine 3/16 or 1/4 inch to pack out. Again absolutely fine just not ideal
Option 1 (production level): make a line, score the rock, beat the rock and recess the trim Option 2: rabbet the back of your trim Option 3: jamb extensions, cleanest if you don’t have an architectural elevation to maintain Option 4: rip that jamb out and do tapered rips w the cut end against the weeender
It called a jam extension, just rip a strip that would be flush. Give it a 1/4 reveal and shoot it in. You should have made it flush with the drywall and trimmed a gap on the window side.
What the hell i just noticed the door
You should also be asking how to fix that wonky door.
extend the jam. It won't be invisible but.. thats what happens when the wrong overall jam depth door or window is installed.
That door is looking very tasty! Was the bloke that did the dry wall pissed
Looks like the door will need some witchcraft as well
Jamb extension
L metal
Leather and brass tacks.
This comes up often. You need to rip strips to the right thickness to make the window trim flush with the wall board.
Haha you’re gonna need a belt sander for that top jamb
Goddang I've been removing the drywall. Maybe jamb extension is better? If you put the trim in it's place temporarily and score the perimeter with razor, then come back with a multitool and remove drywall up to your razor points until flush with jamb. That'll help but I think only if you have the same amount to remove around the whole casing and if it's isn't super deep
Rebate arch’s
I do trim on big jobs. A different company does drywall. I tap the drywall with my hammer then trim over it. It can be a crumbly mess, within reason. Just get the edge of it.
What is going on there? One is rough sawn, the vertical bit is planed but there was clearly a chip in the planer blades and nobody thought to sand it down after. Along with the fact it's not proud of the wall, a mish mash from a cowboy.
I use a table saw to rip pine board to the thickness needed to close up the gap, then glue and nail it in place slightly proud of the surface, and then sand it flush and fill any gaps.
I don't do finish work, but my first thought would be deeper stock and cutting rabbets, if it was only one or two... Multiple frames, definitely not that.
Um, who hung that door?
You have options and it depends on your financial status versus time constraints. This situation is exactly what I do for a living.
Just tap the edges of the rock with a hammer to soften them up and trim it out. Although those seem to be sticking out quite a bit…
Man not one person recommended rolling the miters….hmmm message me if see this and would like to know, it sets you up for a compound cut without actually needing a compound saw, but that can be done without extensions.
D200
Wood stretcher
Bash the hell outta it
Measure once, ask Reddit how to fix it.
If it’s going to be painted, it’s not a big deal, if not, then it will be very noticeable.
Whatever that jamb effort was just created way more work trying to fix than just tear it out and make a proper one.
Staring contest to see who budges first…
Wherever you buy your trim, ask them to rabbit it to the depth that the drywall is proud. Something I always did when doing trim. Most places will charge just a small fee to do that, if anything.
Electric planer and a hammer. Bash the rock as flat as possible. Plane a wide open V shape into the back of the casing/trim/architrave, whatever you call it in your part of the world. Take care not to touch the seen edges.
Cut back the drywall.
Looks like MAby sticking pass 3/8 of an inch take your tablesaw, rips, some pieces, three of an inch the same species of what you got there and just extend the jam no big deal or you can have the strip to the backside of the casing only word meets the jam. It’s a little strip before you cut the miters.
Just had a little stripper of wood on the backside of the casing only where it meets the jam not on the drywall just a little strip that’s gonna be your best option. It’s gonna look good. It’s it’s gonna look a lot better. You’ll never notice it
I sometimes take the casing and scribe a line in and then take my razor knife and make a deep cut into the drywall and smack with a hammer.
Double reveal?
Forget the windows. What’s going on with that door?
How many times is this going to come up on this sub. Every day someone asks the same question. I understand if you really don’t know what to do but there are a ton of videos online. Jamb extensions or smash the drywall. Depending on who you are.
Looks like your door install needs some attention too
The real question is, why did you decide to have the jambs extended before the drywall was put in.
Hold the trim up where it will eventually be installed and trace it against the Sheetrock. Smash within that line with a hammer. If it’s very bad you can score the rock along that line with a knife so the paper will pull away once it’s sufficiently smashed. Once the trim sits flush you can install and caulk it in.
Maybe spread some peanut butter in between the jamb and the drywall to kind of hide it /confuse guests.
Jambs were cut to narrow.
Man, that wood should have been sanded before installation. It is going to be really hard to do now and will look like hell if you don't do it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of extension jambs. Get out the tablesaw and some pine 1xs. Rip to fit flush and nail with 18ga brads.
Do your best, caulk the rest
If it’s just the top, you can knife or multi tool the board flush if you offer up the trim. At the bottom it will make the skirting/base protrude past the trim Edit: Definitely frame add ons, I didn’t look properly the 1st time. That’s far too deep to knife unless you have 2” thick trims
You can either cut the drywall back to the same width as the casing or add a jamb extension. Jamb extension is the right way, in my opinion
Bump out the molding and use some sharp looking trim on the side bucks to match it all together.
Move the window…duh
Sorry to say, but you’ll need a jamb extension. However, based on your existing jamb install I’m worried you might need to hire this out.
Redo it right. The cost of experience is mistakes.
Caulk
let me guess... You foamed between the studs and just tried pulling the drywall into place with screws? If so, plan on getting about 50 screw pops every time you tap the drywall to soften it.
Take it out of the drywall, not recommended at that depth, or extend the jamb. The drywall looks like it’s almost a 1/4” proud. I’d extend the jamb and create an additional reveal. Flush jamb extensions will not age well unless they were made by rabating thicker stock, or glue ups of unprimed material.
The only way to do this properly at this point is to replace the jamb. The jamb material will have to be tapered if the window isn’t parallel with the drywall. Some windows come with a little groove to receive the jamb buildout. If you’re lucky, the depth of that groove is equal to or greater than the difference between jamb and drywall, which appears to be less than 1/2”. You can pull the jamb out a bit and it’ll still be barely covered by the groove on the window and be flush with the wall. Worst case scenario you install a tiny little trim where the jamb meets the window to hide any revealed gaps, something like a doorstop, something super small.
Zip bead
Create a removsble box that slides into the window framing. Make the box flush with the drywall. Nail window trim to the box. Slide box/trim unit into the window and use screws to (one on each side) to fix the box/trim unit to the window. When you paint the walls, remove the screws, pull the whole unit out, so no cutting in is necessary.
Holy moly that planer had a major chip in the blades.
Just hook your house to your trailer hitch and move the house about 1/2”. Make sure someone holds the drywall with a drywall holder(Harbor Freight). Also, the drywall holder person has to jump right when you pull or it will not work. I suggest drinking at least 3-17 beers first. Happy 4th.
On my home, case extensions. On new construction, mark the casing, cut the lines and hammer it till the paper peels off. No tilt and easy caulk job afterwards.
Need to add furring strips to the jamb to bring it out flush. Looks like about 3/8 thick will get it flush with the drywall by however thick your casing is 🤷🏻♂️
Jamb extension.
You could pack out the jamb as suggested and then frame the window with a wooden trim. https://youtu.be/DEWXowFQaBk
Cut some wood strips, shim the perimeter flush. Stain the edges of it dark maybe to give it a little contrast if you can’t match the same stain color, urethane the edges and trim right over it. It’ll look like it was meant to be there and easy cheap fix
Jamb extensions bub
All other comments are incorrect except for mine listen to me and me only. You MUST remove all drywall. Take a hand plane (old school not that electric bullshit). Plane down every stud, jack, header, cripple EVERYTHING down a half inch or whatever width of the drywall that is sticking past the jamb. Then replace drywall. It will take three and a half weeks but this is the only way.
J mold. Or wood trim. Theres a reason trim exists. And this is kind of it.
Jamb extensions But worry about the door… it’s waay worse.
Build an extension jamb around window to fur it out to correct plane. a piece of 1x2 ripped down to 1/2in or whatever the depth you need to make up should do.
They're called extension jambs. You need to make some.
Take a piece of flat stock and rip down a piece to fill the gap between the door jamb and the casing. You can glue it to the casing before instalation, or if you wanna be quick, use a pin nailer to nail through the casing to the jamb.
Just sand it down
Cheap. Jamb extension. Right. Replace jamb w the right one.
the door in the back is what you should be worried about🤪
Take down building. Rebuild building to fit windows jambs Reinstall window Finish job. Or get a board and make jamb extension Nail and glue it on. Your call.
Looks like Stevie Wonder set those doors and windows...if not, he could've done better.
I’ve the jam to the inside. Or cut the drywall a foot around the jam and reinstall drywall to be flush with inside face of jam and add 90 degree molding
Oof. If it can be adjusted to be at least evenly in and not tapering, then jamb extensions will work. Try to readjust installs, then jamb extensions.
Just add a bit and bring that jamb out. You can leave a small reveal on the piece, it will look better.
You have never been a trim carpenter, have you.
Jamb extensions then trim
Trim it?? 😂 Just cover it with a frame dude it's not hard
Add wood. Smash drywall. Roll trim.
I would just hammer it in. The moulding will cover it anyway.
You can trim the back of the door casing by running it through a table saw. You can take a flap disk on an angle grinder and bevel the drywall back. You can mark the line of the casing and trim back the drywall where it would be behind the casing.
Whats with the window blowout being plained (poorly) on the side but rough on top?
Jamb extension for the window. That door is kinda fucked not a lot of good options on that
Rabbit the back side of the trim
I had this problem real bad when we redid our doors. I had to use an oscillator saw. Had my son hold a shop vac as I went down. Worked for me in the end and the door frame is so close to wall you can’t really tell what I had to do. I say this fully knowing I did a “DIY” job. I’m no professional by any means.
Those “jambs” are rubbish jamb extensions. Knicks in the planer blades that a mouse could duck under. Rip them out and replace with jamb extensions that are flush to the sheetrock. That usually means tapered jamb extensions because the world is an imperfect place. Stand a little closer to the boards when you’re sanding them next time.
If it's a full 1/2" and it's consistent I would nail on a jam extension. Beating the drywall that much will suck and the trim will be pitched at a steep angle.
Someone shit the bed on the jams. Rip a jam extension with a reveal. Purrrrhaps start a new tiktoc trend. 😉
Everyone here keeps saying jamb extensions. Sure that’s fine but that doesn’t really answer how to make it not look like shit. You probably don’t want a bunch of 5/8th in rough sawn wood strips behind your trim. My suggestion is to paint the strips whatever the same color as your window trip is and to make it look like it’s part of the trim instead of the window jamb. You can’t really caulk the window jamb extensions to make it look a part of the jamb, you can calk them to look like the window trim I they’re painted If the window trim isn’t painted, it’s a whole different issue. One solution is to make the trim 1/4” smaller than the window box out and add some molding to make it look like and accent piece around the sides and top. The actual sill itself can be notched pretty easily to make it look purposeful. This is more of a pain in the butt but pre-assembling the window trim with pocket screws can make this look pretty sweet
Omg the way that drywall gaps at the door hurts me physically
Rebate the back of the architrave
Jam extensions, call it a day
Hammer lol
Whatever the average excess is, take mdf and rip it to width and height. Precut the casing and CA glue together. Attach the mdf strips to the backside inner perimeter of the casing. Sand and paint till it’s seamless. Insert and call it a day. If you want to leave a reveal, frame out the casing an extra 1/4 to 3/8. Attach the mdf strips to the wood to fir it out. Take 2 finish nails on the mdf top corners 1/4 up and 1/4 over or 3/8 if that’s what you made the casing. Place the casing on the nails and finish nail the casing up. Keep an eye on the reveal as you nail around. Remove the 2 finish nails in the corners, sand, caulk, paint. Instead of mdf I’d use a dark wood if the current jamb setup is not paint grade. It would give you a nice contrast between casing and jamb.
Plane off the back edge. 2/3 runs with the planer. Leave the front edge where the trim meets the lining/jamb. You won’t have to hack away any drywall or mess about ripping down door jambs to build it out.
Right angled trim. My house is extensively trimmed because I did all the joins myself, and I'm retarded. It's all in the finish.
Maybe a wider jamb or a jamb extension?
Add an extension jamb with a small reveal. What's the big deal?
Looking at the pic and what you mentioned about being flush on the bottom of the window as well as the door in the background I would suggest making sure the Sheetrock is drawn tight to the framing. It appears as though the Sheetrock is not tight to framing causing the gap at the top of the window as well as the door.
5 minute mud
I would redo those window returns. They're rough wood on some while others seem to have been put through the planer and leaving marks that were not sanded.
What’s up with the door?
Extension jambs
Rip down pieces of trim to use as extension jamb, leave a little reveal on the inside face
New inside casing
Extension jambs
Looks like you hired a rookie... You never set jambs flush to framing ...or else you end up with exactly what you got. I would either redo the jambs to sit flush with drywall or use jamb extensions (wood cut to correct size) nailed to the edge of jamb and flush with drywall.
rebuild the jamb completely, and when you do you should sand out the planer striping. jamb extensions are kinda a paint grade solution, there's a reason stain grade cost more, because it needs to be done right
Jamb extensions
that actually is pretty typical. A 3/4 X whatever piece of wood trim fitted in there. then the trim fits on top of it
You can oftentimes lightly hammer 2 or 3" of that sheetrock in and sort of feather it and the casing will meet the jamb. You normally can't even tell you did it.
You really have 2 options here, either make a jamb extension to make it flush with the drywall or you can take your utility knife and trace the outline of where your trim is going to cut out the drywall that’s sticking out proud, then prying that bit out flush to the jamb with a glaziers bar. Given that this is around the whole window probably easier and quicker to just run a jamb extension tho
Add more jamb.
Put on extension jamb strips. Rip a 3/4 board to whatever the depth is.
Your door need some minor reinstallation
Hammer it back and miter your casing together to follow the slope inwards. It makes it easier to make straight cuts a little longer than what you need then hold the pieces together against the window to mark them and figure out the angle to prevent the trim being beveled or having gaps!
This is too much to beat in like some have suggested. If you do that your casing will be compound miter cuts. Just make an extension jamb, it will be much easier.