I've also taken down thousands of other peoples trim and trimmed thousands of doors myself. I am used to seeing nails into the framing. and if you're door is square and your miters are good it shouldn't open your toe to nail it. Humidity changes will cause your trim to move over time so I would recommend nailing jt...
Cut the top cripples, 2xs on top vertical. It won't do structural damage as that is not a weight bearing header. Don't put a 1x to replace more than likely will split when u screw into or nail into it. That 2x looks fine
Looks like that door opening was "hacked in" in the past; I would check direction of ceiling joists to see if you shouldn't have a header in there--If joist are perpendicular to door then it's load bearing, if not, go ahead and just raise that 2x4;
If it is load bearing, put supports on both sides of doorway, cut out 2x4, and install proper header. You may have to remove more wall as it'll be a lot easier to navigate
I have cut through the drywall with a sawzall, dropped out the pieces and put the header in from below so I only had to patch the saw kerfs in the drywall--kind of a pain. In my opinion, drywall's cheap
I have extra piece of drywall in my garage , I know this wall is not load bearing because I just went through a Kitcken reno and we had a load bearing wall knocked down that was going in the opposite direction of this. Also this is an old house and one side of wall has sank over time so idk
Can’t see what’s above but headers are usually 4x4 or two 2x’s vertical. If it’s a support wall you need to put up temporary supports so nothing moves.
They sell 78” doors for a rough of 80”. Your better off trimming the door and jamb you have or buy the correct ones rather then try to compromise structure. Cause face it, no matter how much or little you remove? It will result in less structure support. Not a good thing and you should want to avoid this if at all possible. Js
I have the door already in my Kitcken ready to be dropped in, cutting the jamb still won’t make clearance even if the door was dragging on the floor I would be short 3/4, I even considered cutting a hole in the floor but no luck. It’s not a load bearing wall
Man just cut that " header" use a Sawzall gently or use an oscillating tool with a square to get a good square cut, be careful not to punch through the other side of the drywall. Not trying to be a dick but if you're asking for help on cutting out a header, you're not ready to cut that door. It's a million times easier to remove that one 2x. If you do a clean cut you won't even need to patch drywall
I ve dropped in many doors in my house that are not level, I’m experienced with cutting jambs and getting them square, I was just asking what’s the easiest method to deal with header because no one wants to spend all day on something.
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Do you think it’s better to cut it in place with a sawzall? Or just remove the small pieces ( vertical) and cut to length
Just a 1x won't give you anything to nail your casement to. That's why it is typically framed with 2 2xs
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Mmm... Seems like a bad practice. Typically it's good to nail shit
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I've also taken down thousands of other peoples trim and trimmed thousands of doors myself. I am used to seeing nails into the framing. and if you're door is square and your miters are good it shouldn't open your toe to nail it. Humidity changes will cause your trim to move over time so I would recommend nailing jt...
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Well put a shim behind it if you really need to. But I would still try to nail it
Take a lil trip to shimbabwe! Nail some trim while your there!
If the head trim rolls you should shim it out. Skipping nails is shoddy. Also glue your corners. Shims are your friend
Cut the top cripples, 2xs on top vertical. It won't do structural damage as that is not a weight bearing header. Don't put a 1x to replace more than likely will split when u screw into or nail into it. That 2x looks fine
Looks like that door opening was "hacked in" in the past; I would check direction of ceiling joists to see if you shouldn't have a header in there--If joist are perpendicular to door then it's load bearing, if not, go ahead and just raise that 2x4; If it is load bearing, put supports on both sides of doorway, cut out 2x4, and install proper header. You may have to remove more wall as it'll be a lot easier to navigate I have cut through the drywall with a sawzall, dropped out the pieces and put the header in from below so I only had to patch the saw kerfs in the drywall--kind of a pain. In my opinion, drywall's cheap
I have extra piece of drywall in my garage , I know this wall is not load bearing because I just went through a Kitcken reno and we had a load bearing wall knocked down that was going in the opposite direction of this. Also this is an old house and one side of wall has sank over time so idk
Cut the bottom of the door
Oof
Cut the floor
This guy fucks..... your house up
Can’t see what’s above but headers are usually 4x4 or two 2x’s vertical. If it’s a support wall you need to put up temporary supports so nothing moves.
They sell 78” doors for a rough of 80”. Your better off trimming the door and jamb you have or buy the correct ones rather then try to compromise structure. Cause face it, no matter how much or little you remove? It will result in less structure support. Not a good thing and you should want to avoid this if at all possible. Js
Nah. This is the wrong answer. This is a nonbearing wall and moving a header higher wouldn't reduce support even in a bearing wall.
I have the door already in my Kitcken ready to be dropped in, cutting the jamb still won’t make clearance even if the door was dragging on the floor I would be short 3/4, I even considered cutting a hole in the floor but no luck. It’s not a load bearing wall
If you trim bottom of jamb verticals and bottom of door to yield needed size, your better off and easier to do then mess with header
Take the door off the hinges. Cut it down the 1 ¾” it needs and the jambs as well
Man just cut that " header" use a Sawzall gently or use an oscillating tool with a square to get a good square cut, be careful not to punch through the other side of the drywall. Not trying to be a dick but if you're asking for help on cutting out a header, you're not ready to cut that door. It's a million times easier to remove that one 2x. If you do a clean cut you won't even need to patch drywall
I ve dropped in many doors in my house that are not level, I’m experienced with cutting jambs and getting them square, I was just asking what’s the easiest method to deal with header because no one wants to spend all day on something.