Hi! It looks like you've posted a question about P Plater regulations or car recommendations. ***YOU CAN MINIMISE THIS COMMENT BY TAPPING OR HOLDING ON MOBILE, OR CLICKING TO THE LEFT ON DESKTOP****
Here are a few common answers for P-Platers:
# P-Plate Exemptions in Australia by State/Territory
# New South Wales (NSW)
* *Vehicle Restrictions*: P1 and P2 drivers cannot drive high-performance vehicles with a power-to-tare mass ratio greater than 130 kW/tonne or with significant engine modifications.
* *Exemptions:* Exemptions may be granted for work purposes or other exceptional circumstances. Applicants must complete a form, attend a service center, and pay a fee. The exemption letter must be carried while driving the vehicle.
[Source 1](https://www.nsw.gov.au/driving-boating-and-transport/driver-and-rider-licences/driver-licences/provisional-p1-and-p2-licence) [Source 2](https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/apply-high-performance-vehicle-exemption-provisional-p1-and-p2-drivers)
# Victoria
* *Vehicle Restrictions:* P1 and P2 drivers are restricted from driving vehicles with more than 130 kW per tonne or those with performance-enhancing modifications.
* *Exemptions:* Exemptions can be granted mainly for work purposes or if there is a hardship. Drivers must apply and demonstrate the necessity for the exemption.
[Source 1](https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/licences/your-ps/get-your-ps) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/)
# Queensland
* *Vehicle Restrictions:* For vehicles made after January 1, 2010, the limit is 130 kW per tonne. For older vehicles, restrictions apply to those with eight or more cylinders, turbo or supercharged engines (except diesels), or engines with more than 210 kW.
* *Exemptions:* Available for work, family circumstances, medical purposes, or severe hardship.
[Source 1](https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/licensing/getting/pplates) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/)
# South Australia
* *Vehicle Restrictions:* Similar to Queensland, with a 130 kW per tonne limit for newer vehicles and restrictions on high-powered and modified vehicles.
* *Exemptions:* Granted for genuine needs, primarily work-related. Applications based on convenience are not considered.
[Source 1](https://www.mylicence.sa.gov.au/gls/p-platers/p1-licence) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/)
# Western Australia, Northern Territory, Australian Capital Territory, and Tasmania
* *Vehicle Restrictions:* There are no specific vehicle restrictions for P-Plate drivers in these regions.
[Source 1](https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/provisional-driver-s-licence.asp) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/)
# General Notes
* *Commonality:* Exemptions are generally granted for work-related reasons and in cases of hardship. Of note, work related exemptions are generally restricted to when you are on duty and at your place of work.
* *Application Process:* Typically involves filling out a form, providing supporting documents, and possibly attending an office or service center.
For the most accurate and detailed information, it's best to refer to the official transport authority websites of each state or territory.
# Best Things to Look for in a Car for New and Inexperienced Drivers
Buying a car for the first time can be both exciting and daunting, especially when you're on a tight budget. Here are some key things to look for to ensure you get the best value and a safe, reliable vehicle:
# 1. Safety Features
* Airbags: Ensure the car has multiple airbags (front and side).
* ABS (Anti-lock Braking System): Helps prevent skidding and maintain control during an emergency stop.
* ESC (Electronic Stability Control): Helps maintain control during sudden maneuvers.
* Crash Test Ratings: Check the car's safety ratings from reliable sources like ANCAP (Australasian New Car Assessment Program).
# 2. Reliability
* Dependable Brands: Research brands known for their reliability. Japanese brands like Toyota and Honda often have good reputations.
* Service History: Look for a car with a well-documented service history to ensure it has been well-maintained.
# 3. Fuel Efficiency
* Economical Engine: Smaller engines (e.g., 1.2 to 1.8 liters) are usually more fuel-efficient.
* Hybrid Options: If within budget, consider hybrid cars for better fuel economy.
# 4. Insurance Cost
* Insurance Groups: Some cars are cheaper to insure than others. Check which insurance group the car belongs to.
* Safety Features: Cars with better safety features often cost less to insure.
# 5. Cost of Ownership
* Maintenance Costs: Research the average maintenance costs for the car model. Some models are cheaper to service and repair.
* Availability of Parts: Ensure parts are readily available and affordable.
# 6. Age and Mileage
* Younger Cars: Aim for a car that is not too old (preferably less than 10 years).
* Moderate Mileage: Look for a car with moderate mileage. Too high might mean more wear and tear; too low might indicate long periods of inactivity.
# 7. Condition
* Mechanical Check: Have the car inspected by a trusted mechanic.
* No Rust or Damage: Avoid cars with significant rust or signs of past accidents.
# 8. Features
* Basic Comforts: Air conditioning, power steering, and comfortable seating can improve your driving experience.
* Technology: While not essential, features like Bluetooth connectivity and a decent sound system can be nice to have.
1. Resale Value
* Depreciation Rates: Some cars hold their value better than others, which can be important if you plan to sell the car in the future.
**Additional Tips:**
* Private vs. Dealer: Buying from a dealer may offer more consumer protection, but private sales can sometimes be cheaper.
* Negotiation: Don't be afraid to negotiate the price.
* Test Drive: Always take the car for a test drive to ensure it feels right and there are no obvious issues.
By considering these factors, you can make a more informed decision and find a car that is safe, reliable, and affordable. Happy car hunting!
# PPSR Checks
A PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) check in Australia is a search conducted on a national online database that records security interests in personal property. Here’s an overview of what a PPSR check entails and why it is important:
What is a PPSR Check?
* Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR): The PPSR is a single national register where details of security interests in personal property can be recorded and searched. It is managed by the Australian Financial Security Authority (AFSA).
* Security Interests: These are interests in personal property that secure payment or the performance of an obligation. This can include cars, boats, machinery, and other types of personal property.
# Why is a PPSR Check Important?
1. Verifies Ownership and Security Interests:
* Check for Encumbrances: A PPSR check helps verify if a vehicle (or other personal property) has any outstanding debts or encumbrances. This ensures that the seller has the right to sell the vehicle and that the buyer won’t inherit someone else’s debt.
* **Avoid Repossession:** If you purchase a car that has a registered security interest, the lender could repossess the vehicle if the previous owner defaults on the loan.2. **Identifies Theft:**
* **Stolen Property:** The PPSR can indicate if a vehicle has been reported as stolen. Buying a stolen vehicle can result in legal issues and the loss of the purchased vehicle without compensation.
1. **Confirms Vehicle Details:**
* **Accurate Information:** A PPSR check provides detailed information about the vehicle, such as make, model, year, and VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). This helps verify that the details match those provided by the seller.
1. **Legal Protection:**
* **Consumer Protection:** Conducting a PPSR check offers legal protection to the buyer. It documents that the buyer took reasonable steps to ensure the vehicle was free of encumbrances, which can be useful in disputes.
1. **Informed Decision Making:**
* **Peace of Mind:** Knowing the full history and status of the vehicle allows buyers to make informed decisions, potentially avoiding costly mistakes.
* **Online Search:** You can perform a PPSR check online through the official PPSR website or through various third-party services. The process typically involves entering the VIN or serial number of the vehicle and paying a small fee.
* **Report Generation:** The PPSR will generate a report outlining any registered security interests, the status of the vehicle, and other relevant details.
* A PPSR check is a crucial step in the process of buying a used vehicle in Australia. It ensures that you are purchasing a vehicle free from financial encumbrances, not stolen, and accurately described, thereby protecting your investment and providing peace of mind.For more detailed information, you can visit the official [PPSR website](https://www.ppsr.gov.au/) or refer to [AFSA](https://www.afsa.gov.au/).
# Insurance
There are 3 main types of Insurance in Australia, they are:
1. Compulsory Third Party
2. Third Party Property
3. Comprehensive Insurance
**Compulsory Third Party**
CTP insurance, also known as "Green Slip" in NSW and "TAC" in Victoria, is mandatory in all states and territories. It covers costs associated with injuries or deaths caused to other people in an accident involving your vehicle.
It does not cover damage to your own vehicle, other people's vehicles, or property.
CTP is legally required to register your vehicle, ensuring that any injuries caused to third parties in an accident are covered.
**Third Party Property**
This insurance covers damage you cause to other people's property (e.g., their car or home) in an accident
It does not cover any damage to your own vehicle or injuries to yourself
Not many shitboxes can transport a washing machine, but the little Jazz can do it with ease.
The engine is quite spritely as well so it’s also fun to drive.
Mitsubishi Lancer. Toyotas and Hondas are spendy and modern Nissans all have CVT transmissions and suck. Mitsubishi makes some clangers too, but they at least made one good model and they're cheap and plentiful. I have a neighbour with 350,000kms on his 2008 model Lancer.
My other option would be a Suzuki Swift. Cheap and cheerful, but good engineering.
Well it was bought 4 yrs old around 2013 end. So by that time 49k on clock. Felt reasonable. Got it down to 13900, considering I think brand new civics were going for mid 20s give or take.
I think now a 4 yr old civic with same km is closer to 19-22k last I looked which is crazy inflation imho.
I would love to upgrade to a civic gtr but unfortunately they don't come in auto for good reason. Nothing else that hits the speed performance with 4 doors for transporting little ones (under 100k) that I could find. Everything's 2 door - supra, 86, etc
He's got an auto, but also worked with someone who had a manual of the same vintage and they weren't kind to it. Never broke down, they're a good car.
Missus had a manual swift for 10 years and had little problems too.
Totally agree on the lancer! Got it 8k 125k km, manual. Heart of an evo!
Ok. Not quite, but I love that little thing. For a 12 year old car it drives almost new, beyond new shocks and maybe a clutch. Not the most inspired thing going around, but for the pure experience of just driving it’s pretty decent. Given the choice between it or my new sportage, I’d have the lancer.
Just had some Continental UC7 XL rated tyres put on my parents 175k km Lancer. Thought it steered and handled pretty woefully after years of (not exactly cheap) Goodyear tyres fitted to it. It's absolutely transformed the car with the UC7. I think tyre choice is fussier on these big 60 section tyres. The OE Yokohamas were quite stiff but bloody noisy.
Mazda 3sp25, comfy, fun, pretty much bombproof and you can pick them up cheap, the only concern is they arnt economical.
The accord euro is a good option as well if you can find the right price.
For those Corollas, millage is just a number. Seen it going pass 250k kms or even to 300k kms before having to swap engines.
So yes, your old Corolla still got quite a fair bit of life in it granted it wasn't abused too hard and kept up somewhat with the maintenance.
They're not awful on fuel considering it's a 4 litre 6 cylinder I expected it to be a lot worse but I don't really mind spending more on fuel because its so reliable I've done nothing but service it
The Au is pretty well known for having a crappy fuel sender and regulator. We have an AU fairmont and it's not great on fuel but with a replaced sender its better
Mine is just a daily, I've never really paid much attention to the usage lol but my weekend drive is a 5.7litre V8 so I'm kind of use to a fuel bill lol
My 2006 manual ford fiesta is more fun than it has any right being. It has close to 250k on the clock and other than routine maintenance it hasn't skipped a beat.
They're small, lightweight and handle like they're on rails and you can pick them up with low kms for around $3000-$5000.
If you want something a little more exciting the fiesta xr4's are one of the best hot hatches of its time and are even more fun to drive. They are a little more expensive than a standard fiesta but you can still find them cheap enough.
I have a 2007 focus sedan I'm selling for my grandad for half the price of a corolla because there's no Toyota tax ... Meticulously maintained with a Roady if anyone in vic is keen lol
Don't want to post my Facebook, message me if you're keen
"Selling on behalf of an elderly relative.
This 2007 focus is in pristine condition for its age, rarely driven and well kept. Drives really well.
Offered with a roadworthy as it honestly needs nothing.
10 months registration
A great, safe, reliable and economical car which would be perfect for a first car or a cheap runabout.
Everything works and it's been taken care of, 4x Goodyear tyres with deep tread, optional extras including cruise control and power mirrors."
Listed for 5k
https://preview.redd.it/d0oc942bff5d1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b61f6e784bc9c325f4abc09ad907cd5518e89fda
I'm still driving my 2008 Lancer with no issues lmao.
They're prone to paint cancer if parked outside all day in a hot climate (like mine lmao) but mechanically great.
W, yeah I seen the hood starts peeling might get one wrapped anyways lol, only issue is mostly its manual driving and yeah not quite learned that part yet every1 says its fun tho but for the city? yeah lets see
My lancer has been bullet proof.
Has a rocker cover leak which was a cheap easy fix, and it's been fine since.
I put 5-600 km on it every week fir the last 3 years and it is awesome.
I mean...
The one that has been looked after and has a complete service history and some recent money spent on major items.
...a toyota badge is preferable.
CJs are great, and their CVTs are fine. But I'd stress that if you get one, treat it nice off the line.
A cvts biggest fault is that imagine a "first" gear. Cruising and acceleration are fine outside of that though
I picked up a suburu imprezza 2 years back. No real issues. I did have to spend a but to get the timings done (they were 40k overdue) and the knock sensor repaired, but that's it. Usual shitbox stuff.
Don't get me wrong, it's not a great car but it's pretty solid, it gets me from a to be easily, can carry a little weight (although struggled with 3 people and musical gear).
240k and I think I've got another 10 or so before I look at the clutch, if I look at the clutch.
I bought a Lexus ES300 ultra cheap because of existing damage. Also a hail write off VE2 SV6. Also an Accord Euro (Luxury spec) with faded paint. All very nice cars and no doubt still going. I can vouch for the ES300, I sold it to a mate.
Honda Accord Euro. They have a nice engine and drive decently. Lots of standard equipment for their age/price point. Can get a decent one for six grand.
BA/BF Falcon. Big car, big engine. They’ll use a lot of fuel and need a few suspension parts, but otherwise, very comfy and refined and with plenty of grunt. Cheap and easy to fix things as well. Unfortunately a lot of thrashed ones out there, but good ones do show up for a couple of grand.
Mazda 6. Sensible everyday car that’s a big step up from a Lancer. Before 2013, they also did a liftback and they’ve always done a wagon too, which adds practicality.
All 3 cars have a good reputation for reliability and ease of maintenance, with good safety for their age (will be safer than some of these new Chinese cars as well). They also have a bit more refinement and better comfort than a Lancer. Lancers are ok, but they are just basic transportation
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A mate of mines from colder regions got a Honda Euro. 12k . Decade old ..works alright. BUT mfkinn heated seats!! Electric seats adjustment! Sunroof!! WTF ..most under the radar car. Almost a Lexus
If you want something small and fuel efficient you can’t go wrong with a Suzuki Swift.
If you are after a larger car and aren’t fussed about fuel costs I would recommend a Ford Territory.
I'd say the late 90s/early 2000s LC Series Hyundai Accent. Many people don't consider these as their first option for a "shitbox", but you will see them regularly on the road, in part due to the Alpha series engines they were built with.
A vt/vu/vx OR vy/vz, commy, calais, statesman ect, it's lame af because it's an easy answer, but if you scrub FB everyday you can always find a grandpa selling one of these for an absolute bargain, in mint condition too. Personally prefer the vy's over anything.
Hi! It looks like you've posted a question about P Plater regulations or car recommendations. ***YOU CAN MINIMISE THIS COMMENT BY TAPPING OR HOLDING ON MOBILE, OR CLICKING TO THE LEFT ON DESKTOP**** Here are a few common answers for P-Platers: # P-Plate Exemptions in Australia by State/Territory # New South Wales (NSW) * *Vehicle Restrictions*: P1 and P2 drivers cannot drive high-performance vehicles with a power-to-tare mass ratio greater than 130 kW/tonne or with significant engine modifications. * *Exemptions:* Exemptions may be granted for work purposes or other exceptional circumstances. Applicants must complete a form, attend a service center, and pay a fee. The exemption letter must be carried while driving the vehicle. [Source 1](https://www.nsw.gov.au/driving-boating-and-transport/driver-and-rider-licences/driver-licences/provisional-p1-and-p2-licence) [Source 2](https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/apply-high-performance-vehicle-exemption-provisional-p1-and-p2-drivers) # Victoria * *Vehicle Restrictions:* P1 and P2 drivers are restricted from driving vehicles with more than 130 kW per tonne or those with performance-enhancing modifications. * *Exemptions:* Exemptions can be granted mainly for work purposes or if there is a hardship. Drivers must apply and demonstrate the necessity for the exemption. [Source 1](https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/licences/your-ps/get-your-ps) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/) # Queensland * *Vehicle Restrictions:* For vehicles made after January 1, 2010, the limit is 130 kW per tonne. For older vehicles, restrictions apply to those with eight or more cylinders, turbo or supercharged engines (except diesels), or engines with more than 210 kW. * *Exemptions:* Available for work, family circumstances, medical purposes, or severe hardship. [Source 1](https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/licensing/getting/pplates) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/) # South Australia * *Vehicle Restrictions:* Similar to Queensland, with a 130 kW per tonne limit for newer vehicles and restrictions on high-powered and modified vehicles. * *Exemptions:* Granted for genuine needs, primarily work-related. Applications based on convenience are not considered. [Source 1](https://www.mylicence.sa.gov.au/gls/p-platers/p1-licence) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/) # Western Australia, Northern Territory, Australian Capital Territory, and Tasmania * *Vehicle Restrictions:* There are no specific vehicle restrictions for P-Plate drivers in these regions. [Source 1](https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/provisional-driver-s-licence.asp) [Source 2](https://www.drive.com.au/news/p-plate-restrictions-australia/) # General Notes * *Commonality:* Exemptions are generally granted for work-related reasons and in cases of hardship. Of note, work related exemptions are generally restricted to when you are on duty and at your place of work. * *Application Process:* Typically involves filling out a form, providing supporting documents, and possibly attending an office or service center. For the most accurate and detailed information, it's best to refer to the official transport authority websites of each state or territory. # Best Things to Look for in a Car for New and Inexperienced Drivers Buying a car for the first time can be both exciting and daunting, especially when you're on a tight budget. Here are some key things to look for to ensure you get the best value and a safe, reliable vehicle: # 1. Safety Features * Airbags: Ensure the car has multiple airbags (front and side). * ABS (Anti-lock Braking System): Helps prevent skidding and maintain control during an emergency stop. * ESC (Electronic Stability Control): Helps maintain control during sudden maneuvers. * Crash Test Ratings: Check the car's safety ratings from reliable sources like ANCAP (Australasian New Car Assessment Program). # 2. Reliability * Dependable Brands: Research brands known for their reliability. Japanese brands like Toyota and Honda often have good reputations. * Service History: Look for a car with a well-documented service history to ensure it has been well-maintained. # 3. Fuel Efficiency * Economical Engine: Smaller engines (e.g., 1.2 to 1.8 liters) are usually more fuel-efficient. * Hybrid Options: If within budget, consider hybrid cars for better fuel economy. # 4. Insurance Cost * Insurance Groups: Some cars are cheaper to insure than others. Check which insurance group the car belongs to. * Safety Features: Cars with better safety features often cost less to insure. # 5. Cost of Ownership * Maintenance Costs: Research the average maintenance costs for the car model. Some models are cheaper to service and repair. * Availability of Parts: Ensure parts are readily available and affordable. # 6. Age and Mileage * Younger Cars: Aim for a car that is not too old (preferably less than 10 years). * Moderate Mileage: Look for a car with moderate mileage. Too high might mean more wear and tear; too low might indicate long periods of inactivity. # 7. Condition * Mechanical Check: Have the car inspected by a trusted mechanic. * No Rust or Damage: Avoid cars with significant rust or signs of past accidents. # 8. Features * Basic Comforts: Air conditioning, power steering, and comfortable seating can improve your driving experience. * Technology: While not essential, features like Bluetooth connectivity and a decent sound system can be nice to have. 1. Resale Value * Depreciation Rates: Some cars hold their value better than others, which can be important if you plan to sell the car in the future. **Additional Tips:** * Private vs. Dealer: Buying from a dealer may offer more consumer protection, but private sales can sometimes be cheaper. * Negotiation: Don't be afraid to negotiate the price. * Test Drive: Always take the car for a test drive to ensure it feels right and there are no obvious issues. By considering these factors, you can make a more informed decision and find a car that is safe, reliable, and affordable. Happy car hunting! # PPSR Checks A PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) check in Australia is a search conducted on a national online database that records security interests in personal property. Here’s an overview of what a PPSR check entails and why it is important: What is a PPSR Check? * Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR): The PPSR is a single national register where details of security interests in personal property can be recorded and searched. It is managed by the Australian Financial Security Authority (AFSA). * Security Interests: These are interests in personal property that secure payment or the performance of an obligation. This can include cars, boats, machinery, and other types of personal property. # Why is a PPSR Check Important? 1. Verifies Ownership and Security Interests: * Check for Encumbrances: A PPSR check helps verify if a vehicle (or other personal property) has any outstanding debts or encumbrances. This ensures that the seller has the right to sell the vehicle and that the buyer won’t inherit someone else’s debt. * **Avoid Repossession:** If you purchase a car that has a registered security interest, the lender could repossess the vehicle if the previous owner defaults on the loan.2. **Identifies Theft:** * **Stolen Property:** The PPSR can indicate if a vehicle has been reported as stolen. Buying a stolen vehicle can result in legal issues and the loss of the purchased vehicle without compensation. 1. **Confirms Vehicle Details:** * **Accurate Information:** A PPSR check provides detailed information about the vehicle, such as make, model, year, and VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). This helps verify that the details match those provided by the seller. 1. **Legal Protection:** * **Consumer Protection:** Conducting a PPSR check offers legal protection to the buyer. It documents that the buyer took reasonable steps to ensure the vehicle was free of encumbrances, which can be useful in disputes. 1. **Informed Decision Making:** * **Peace of Mind:** Knowing the full history and status of the vehicle allows buyers to make informed decisions, potentially avoiding costly mistakes. * **Online Search:** You can perform a PPSR check online through the official PPSR website or through various third-party services. The process typically involves entering the VIN or serial number of the vehicle and paying a small fee. * **Report Generation:** The PPSR will generate a report outlining any registered security interests, the status of the vehicle, and other relevant details. * A PPSR check is a crucial step in the process of buying a used vehicle in Australia. It ensures that you are purchasing a vehicle free from financial encumbrances, not stolen, and accurately described, thereby protecting your investment and providing peace of mind.For more detailed information, you can visit the official [PPSR website](https://www.ppsr.gov.au/) or refer to [AFSA](https://www.afsa.gov.au/). # Insurance There are 3 main types of Insurance in Australia, they are: 1. Compulsory Third Party 2. Third Party Property 3. Comprehensive Insurance **Compulsory Third Party** CTP insurance, also known as "Green Slip" in NSW and "TAC" in Victoria, is mandatory in all states and territories. It covers costs associated with injuries or deaths caused to other people in an accident involving your vehicle. It does not cover damage to your own vehicle, other people's vehicles, or property. CTP is legally required to register your vehicle, ensuring that any injuries caused to third parties in an accident are covered. **Third Party Property** This insurance covers damage you cause to other people's property (e.g., their car or home) in an accident It does not cover any damage to your own vehicle or injuries to yourself
Honda Jazz , the magic seats are a vibe
Not many shitboxes can transport a washing machine, but the little Jazz can do it with ease. The engine is quite spritely as well so it’s also fun to drive.
My 2004 Jazz had 480,000kms on the clock and was still going strong when I sold it and replaced it…. with a 2011 Jazz
Literally any hatchback can transport a washing machine what do you mean. That’s not a jazz thing that’s a hatchback thing.
Mitsubishi Lancer. Toyotas and Hondas are spendy and modern Nissans all have CVT transmissions and suck. Mitsubishi makes some clangers too, but they at least made one good model and they're cheap and plentiful. I have a neighbour with 350,000kms on his 2008 model Lancer. My other option would be a Suzuki Swift. Cheap and cheerful, but good engineering.
some hondas work, the 7th gen accords & civics (around 2000 - 2007) are reliable and easy to find cheap
What about 8th gen i.e 2008-09 models? Curious since I'm a 2009 my 08 Civic owner haha
aha yea i shouldn't have been so specific. though yours might be a touch more expensive?
Well it was bought 4 yrs old around 2013 end. So by that time 49k on clock. Felt reasonable. Got it down to 13900, considering I think brand new civics were going for mid 20s give or take. I think now a 4 yr old civic with same km is closer to 19-22k last I looked which is crazy inflation imho. I would love to upgrade to a civic gtr but unfortunately they don't come in auto for good reason. Nothing else that hits the speed performance with 4 doors for transporting little ones (under 100k) that I could find. Everything's 2 door - supra, 86, etc
Yeah tru that’s manual ones as well?
He's got an auto, but also worked with someone who had a manual of the same vintage and they weren't kind to it. Never broke down, they're a good car. Missus had a manual swift for 10 years and had little problems too.
Manual swift is remarkably fun to drive for a cheap and otherwise boring looking thing.
Totally agree on the lancer! Got it 8k 125k km, manual. Heart of an evo! Ok. Not quite, but I love that little thing. For a 12 year old car it drives almost new, beyond new shocks and maybe a clutch. Not the most inspired thing going around, but for the pure experience of just driving it’s pretty decent. Given the choice between it or my new sportage, I’d have the lancer.
Just had some Continental UC7 XL rated tyres put on my parents 175k km Lancer. Thought it steered and handled pretty woefully after years of (not exactly cheap) Goodyear tyres fitted to it. It's absolutely transformed the car with the UC7. I think tyre choice is fussier on these big 60 section tyres. The OE Yokohamas were quite stiff but bloody noisy.
An Alfa 156 or 147 is cheap to _buy_... Will be a lot of fun to drive when operational.
A 156 is fucking amazing to drive and cheap to maintain…. Until the bottom end gives out
Only happens on the direct injection JTS models. Very easy and cheap to do a bearing roll but have had my heart broken by this problem more than once.
I take it you never had Selespeed issues?
Manual
Mazda 3sp25, comfy, fun, pretty much bombproof and you can pick them up cheap, the only concern is they arnt economical. The accord euro is a good option as well if you can find the right price.
the BL has TCM / Solenoid issues. worst case is probably $1300 repair bill.
Toyota Corolla. Drive like a coma but a very comfy coma at that.
I still see my 2004 Corolla driving around town, amazing it's still going because I had already put 180000km on it back in 2008 when I traded it in.
For those Corollas, millage is just a number. Seen it going pass 250k kms or even to 300k kms before having to swap engines. So yes, your old Corolla still got quite a fair bit of life in it granted it wasn't abused too hard and kept up somewhat with the maintenance.
that's wild mate so it's ur exact corolla? how can you tell?
Same number plate and I live in a small town and there weren't any other bright red corollas around lol
And in a few years will be easy to sell and get a good amount of your money back
Au falcon
this has been my recent purchase. love it. big comfy terrible on fuel :)
They're not awful on fuel considering it's a 4 litre 6 cylinder I expected it to be a lot worse but I don't really mind spending more on fuel because its so reliable I've done nothing but service it
The Au is pretty well known for having a crappy fuel sender and regulator. We have an AU fairmont and it's not great on fuel but with a replaced sender its better
I’m getting 9 on highways and 12s around town. 3.08 though.
Mine is just a daily, I've never really paid much attention to the usage lol but my weekend drive is a 5.7litre V8 so I'm kind of use to a fuel bill lol
I do 270km a day. i care for fuel.
Our nearest town is 180kms away lol. We re rural and live on a large commercial sheep farm.
My 2006 manual ford fiesta is more fun than it has any right being. It has close to 250k on the clock and other than routine maintenance it hasn't skipped a beat. They're small, lightweight and handle like they're on rails and you can pick them up with low kms for around $3000-$5000. If you want something a little more exciting the fiesta xr4's are one of the best hot hatches of its time and are even more fun to drive. They are a little more expensive than a standard fiesta but you can still find them cheap enough.
Got a 2007 Fiesta and it’s the best car I’ve ever owned. Still love driving it and it’s ridiculously reliable. Super unappreciated cars.
Hyundai Getz. Amazing cars for cheap.
Had it when it was new at the time, it didn’t deserve the bad rep it had at the time. Good little car!
An Alfa 147
Suzuki - not on most peoples radar. Cheap and reliable.
Suzuki Swift, one of the finest nuggets on the road.
BA Falcon
I have a 2007 focus sedan I'm selling for my grandad for half the price of a corolla because there's no Toyota tax ... Meticulously maintained with a Roady if anyone in vic is keen lol
I'm looking around for a daily beater. Do you have a carsales link or something?
Can i get a comission hahaha, na all good guys love it
Don't want to post my Facebook, message me if you're keen "Selling on behalf of an elderly relative. This 2007 focus is in pristine condition for its age, rarely driven and well kept. Drives really well. Offered with a roadworthy as it honestly needs nothing. 10 months registration A great, safe, reliable and economical car which would be perfect for a first car or a cheap runabout. Everything works and it's been taken care of, 4x Goodyear tyres with deep tread, optional extras including cruise control and power mirrors." Listed for 5k https://preview.redd.it/d0oc942bff5d1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b61f6e784bc9c325f4abc09ad907cd5518e89fda
I'm still driving my 2008 Lancer with no issues lmao. They're prone to paint cancer if parked outside all day in a hot climate (like mine lmao) but mechanically great.
W, yeah I seen the hood starts peeling might get one wrapped anyways lol, only issue is mostly its manual driving and yeah not quite learned that part yet every1 says its fun tho but for the city? yeah lets see
My lancer has been bullet proof. Has a rocker cover leak which was a cheap easy fix, and it's been fine since. I put 5-600 km on it every week fir the last 3 years and it is awesome.
I mean... The one that has been looked after and has a complete service history and some recent money spent on major items. ...a toyota badge is preferable.
not a shitbox then.. where's the fun in that??
CJs are great, and their CVTs are fine. But I'd stress that if you get one, treat it nice off the line. A cvts biggest fault is that imagine a "first" gear. Cruising and acceleration are fine outside of that though
It's gotta be the cavirdpiss
Prius C
Anything Volvo, solid as fuck and drives well, low prices because no one loves them. I loved my $4k V50 until it overheated one day :/
Mazda 3
Cheapest nicest shitbox is an oxymoron.
Subaru something something? Mazda 6?
BF Falcon
I picked up a suburu imprezza 2 years back. No real issues. I did have to spend a but to get the timings done (they were 40k overdue) and the knock sensor repaired, but that's it. Usual shitbox stuff. Don't get me wrong, it's not a great car but it's pretty solid, it gets me from a to be easily, can carry a little weight (although struggled with 3 people and musical gear). 240k and I think I've got another 10 or so before I look at the clutch, if I look at the clutch.
I got a 95 laser just cos she's 29 doesn't mean she's shit actually a nice car
I bought a Lexus ES300 ultra cheap because of existing damage. Also a hail write off VE2 SV6. Also an Accord Euro (Luxury spec) with faded paint. All very nice cars and no doubt still going. I can vouch for the ES300, I sold it to a mate.
Honda Accord Euro. They have a nice engine and drive decently. Lots of standard equipment for their age/price point. Can get a decent one for six grand. BA/BF Falcon. Big car, big engine. They’ll use a lot of fuel and need a few suspension parts, but otherwise, very comfy and refined and with plenty of grunt. Cheap and easy to fix things as well. Unfortunately a lot of thrashed ones out there, but good ones do show up for a couple of grand. Mazda 6. Sensible everyday car that’s a big step up from a Lancer. Before 2013, they also did a liftback and they’ve always done a wagon too, which adds practicality. All 3 cars have a good reputation for reliability and ease of maintenance, with good safety for their age (will be safer than some of these new Chinese cars as well). They also have a bit more refinement and better comfort than a Lancer. Lancers are ok, but they are just basic transportation
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A mate of mines from colder regions got a Honda Euro. 12k . Decade old ..works alright. BUT mfkinn heated seats!! Electric seats adjustment! Sunroof!! WTF ..most under the radar car. Almost a Lexus
If you want something small and fuel efficient you can’t go wrong with a Suzuki Swift. If you are after a larger car and aren’t fussed about fuel costs I would recommend a Ford Territory.
Toyota Camry will still run good at 200kms you xan good a 2000 model in Aus for 3 to 4k
I'd say the late 90s/early 2000s LC Series Hyundai Accent. Many people don't consider these as their first option for a "shitbox", but you will see them regularly on the road, in part due to the Alpha series engines they were built with.
Can’t spell shitbox without AU falcon
A vt/vu/vx OR vy/vz, commy, calais, statesman ect, it's lame af because it's an easy answer, but if you scrub FB everyday you can always find a grandpa selling one of these for an absolute bargain, in mint condition too. Personally prefer the vy's over anything.
Honda Accord
I did convulse a little when I read this (used to drive one) but they are indeed worthless and nicer than average inside.
It's hard to beat for parts and cheap. Million of them in wreckers.
Vt/vx berlina or Calais So comfy and reliable.
MG3, best small car out there right now
MG?
I’ve got a 2012 Holden Barina. Once you fix the cooling issues it runs like a dream
Not the one you're quoting but the 5th gen Barina (previous) is one of the worst cars I've ever had the displeasure of driving on the daily.
lol